Buthefoundinhispreoccupationhehadtakenthewrongturninginthepath，andthathewasnowclosetothewallwhichboundedandoverlookedthehighway。Hereasingularspectaclepresenteditself。Acyclistcoveredwithdustwasseatedinthemiddleoftheroad，tryingtorestorecirculationtohisbruisedandinjuredlegbychafingitwithhishands，whilebesidehimlayhisdamagedbicycle。Hehadevidentlymetwithanaccident。InaninstantPaulhadclimbedthewallandwasathisside。
\"CanIofferyouanyassistance？\"heaskedeagerly。
\"Thanks——no！I\'vecomeabeastlycropperoversomethingorotheronthisroad，andI\'monlybruised，thoughthemachinehassufferedworse，\"repliedthestranger，inafresh，cheeryvoice。Hewasagood-lookingfellowofaboutPaul\'sownage，andtheyoungAmerican\'sheartwentouttowardshim。
\"Howdidithappen？\"askedPaul。
\"That\'swhatpuzzlesme，\"saidthestranger。\"Iwasgettingoutofthewayofaqueeroldchapintheroad，andIranoversomethingthatseemedonlyanoldscrollofpaper；buttheshockwassogreatthatIwasthrown，andIfancyIwasforafewmomentsunconscious。
YetIcannotseeanyotherobstructionintheroad，andthere\'sonlythatbitofpaper。\"Hepointedtothepaper，——ahalf-crushedrollofordinaryfoolscap，showingthemarkofthebicycleuponit。
AstrangeideacameintoPaul\'smind。Hepickedupthepaperandexamineditclosely。Besidesthemarkalreadyindicated，itshowedtwosharpcreasesaboutnineincheslong，andanotherexactlyatthepointoftheimpactofthebicycle。Takingafoldedtwo-footrulefromhispocket，hecarefullymeasuredtheseparallelcreasesandmadeanexhaustivegeometricalcalculationwithhispencilonthepaper。Thestrangerwatchedhimwithawedandadmiringinterest。Rising，heagaincarefullyexaminedtheroad，andwasfinallyrewardedbythediscoveryofasharpindentationinthedust，which，onmeasurementandcomparisonwiththecreasesinthepaperandthecalculationshehadjustmade，provedtobeidentical。
\"Therewasasolidbodyinthatpaper，\"saidPaulquietly；\"aparallelogramexactlynineincheslongandthreewide。\"
\"Isay！you\'rewonderfullyclever，don\'tyouknow，\"saidthestranger，withunaffectedwonder。\"Iseeitall——abrick。\"
Paulsmiledgentlyandshookhishead。\"Thatisthehastyinferenceofaninexperiencedobserver。YouwillobserveatthepointofimpactofyourwheeltheparallelcreaseisCURVED，asfromtheyieldingoftheresistingsubstances，andnotBROKEN，asitwouldbebythecrumblingofabrick。\"
\"Isay，you\'reawfullydetective，don\'tyouknow！justlikethatfellow——what\'shisname？\"saidthestrangeradmiringly。
ThewordsrecalledPaultohimself。Whywasheactinglikeadetective？andwhatwasheseekingtodiscover？Nevertheless，hefeltimpelledtocontinue。\"Andthatqueeroldchapwhomyoumet——
whydidn\'thehelpyou？\"
\"BecauseIpassedhimbeforeIranintothe——theparallelogram，andIsupposehedidn\'tknowwhathappenedbehindhim？\"
\"Didhehaveanythinginhishand？\"
\"Can\'tsay。\"
\"Andyousayyouwereunconsciousafterwards？\"
\"Yes！\"
\"Longenoughfortheculprittoremovetheprincipalevidenceofhiscrime？\"
\"Come！Isay，reallyyouare——youknowyouare！\"
\"Haveyouanysecretenemy？\"
\"No。\"
\"Andyoudon\'tknowMr。Bunker，themanwhoownsthisvastestate？\"
\"Notatall。I\'mfromUpperTooting。\"
\"Goodafternoon，\"saidPaulabruptly，andturnedaway。
Itstruckhimafterwardsthathisactionmighthaveseemeduncivil，andeveninhuman，tothebruisedcyclist，whocouldhardlywalk。
Butitwasgettinglate，andhewasstillfarfromtheHall，which，oddlyenough，seemedtobenolongervisiblefromtheroad。Hewanderedonforsometime，halfconvincedthathehadpassedthelodgegates，yethopingtofindsomeotherentrancetothedomain。
Duskwasfalling；theroundedoutlinesoftheparktreesbeyondthewallweresolidmassesofshadow。Thefullmoon，presentlyrising，restoredthemagaintosymmetry，andatlasthe，tohisrelief，cameuponthemassivegateway。Twolionsrampedinstoneonthesidepillars。Hethoughtitstrangethathehadnotnoticedthegatewayonhispreviousentrance，butherememberedthathewasfullypreoccupiedwiththeadvancingfigureofhisuncle。InafewminutestheHallitselfappeared，andhereagainhewassurprisedthathehadoverlookedbeforeitsnobleproportionsandpicturesqueoutline。Itsbroadterraces，dazzlinglywhiteinthemoonlight；
itslonglineofmullionedwindows，suffusedwithawarmredglowfromwithin，madeitlooklikepartofawintrylandscape——andsuggestedaChristmascard。Thevenerableivythathidtheravagestimehadmadeinitswallslookedlikeblackcarving。Hisheartswelledwithstrangeemotionsashegazedathisancestralhall。
Howmanyofhisbloodhadlivedanddiedthere；howmanyhadgoneforthfromthatgreatporchtodistantlands！Hetriedtothinkofhisfather——alittlechild——peepingbetweenthebalustradesofthatterrace。Hetriedtothinkofit，andperhapswouldhavesucceededhaditnotoccurredtohimthatitwasaknownfactthathisunclehadboughttheestateandhouseofanimpoverishednoblemanonlytheyearbefore。Yet——hecouldnottellwhy——heseemedtofeelhigherandnoblerforthattrial。
Theterracewasdeserted，andsoquietthatasheascendedtoithisfootstepsseemedtoechofromthewalls。Whenhereachedtheportals，thegreatoakendoorswungnoiselesslyonitshinges——
openedbysomeunseenbutwaitingservitor——andadmittedhimtoaloftyhall，darkwithhangingsandfamilyportraits，butwarmedbyaredcarpetthewholelengthofitsstonefloor。Foramomenthewaitedfortheservanttoshowhimtothedrawing-roomorhisuncle\'sstudy。Butnooneappeared。BelievingthistobeapartofthecharacteristicsimplicityoftheQuakerhousehold，heboldlyenteredthefirstdoor，andfoundhimselfinabrilliantlylitandperfectlyemptydrawing-room。Thesameexperiencemethimwiththeotherroomsonthatfloor——thedining-roomdisplayinganalreadyset，exquisitelyfurnishedanddecoratedtable，withchairsfortwentyguests！Hemechanicallyascendedthewideoakenstaircasethatledtothecorridorofbedroomsaboveacentralsalon。Herehefoundonlythesamesolitude。Bedroomdoorsyieldedtohistouch，onlytoshowthesamebrilliantlylitvacancy。HepresentlycameupononeroomwhichseemedtogiveunmistakablesignsofHIS
OWNoccupancy。Surelytherestoodhisowndressing-caseonthetable！andhisowneveningclothescarefullylaidoutonanother，asiffreshfromavalet\'shands。Hesteppedhastilyintothecorridor——therewasnoonethere；herangthebell——therewasnoresponse！Buthenoticedthattherewasajugofhotwaterinhisbasin，andhebegandressingmechanically。
Therewaslittledoubtthathewasinahauntedhouse，butthisdidnotparticularlydisturbhim。Indeed，hefoundhimselfwonderingifitcouldbelogicallycalledahauntedhouse——unlesshehimselfwashauntingit，forthereseemedtobenootherthere。Perhapstheapparitionswouldcomelater，whenhewasdressed。Clearlyitwasnothisuncle\'shouse——andyet，ashehadneverbeeninsidehisuncle\'shouse，hereflectedthatheoughtnottobepositive。
Hefinisheddressingandsatdowninanarmchairwithakindofthoughtfulexpectancy。Butpresentlyhiscuriositybecameimpatientofthesilenceandmystery，andheventuredoncemoretoexplorethehouse。Openinghisbedroomdoor，hefoundhimselfagainuponthedesertedcorridor，butthistimehecoulddistinctlyhearabuzzofvoicesfromthedrawing-roombelow。Assuredthathewasnearasolutionofthemystery，herapidlydescendedthebroadstaircaseandmadehiswaytotheopendoorofthedrawing-room。
Butalthoughthesoundofvoicesincreasedasheadvanced，whenheenteredtheroom，tohisutterastonishment，itwasasemptyasbefore。
Yet，inspiteofhisbewildermentandconfusion，hewasabletofollowoneofthevoices，which，initspeculiardistinctnessandhalf-perfunctorytone，heconcludedmustbelongtothehostoftheinvisibleassembly。
\"Ah，\"saidthevoice，greetingsomeunseenvisitor，\"sogladyouhavecome。Afraidyourengagementsjustnowwouldkeepyouaway。\"
Thenthevoicedroppedtoalowerandmoreconfidentialtone。\"YoumusttakedownLadyDartman，butyouwillhaveMissMorecamp——aclevergirl——ontheothersideofyou。Ah，SirGeorge！Sogoodofyoutocome。AllwellatthePriory？Sogladtohearit。\"（Lowerandmoreconfidentially。）\"YouknowMrs。Monkston。You\'llsitbyher。Alittlecutupbyherhusbandlosinghisseat。Trytoamuseher。\"
Emboldenedbydesperation，Paulturnedinthedirectionofthevoice。\"IamPaulBunker，\"hesaidhesitatingly。\"I\'mafraidyou\'llthinkmeintrusive，butIwaslookingformyuncle，and\"——
\"Intrusive，mydearboy！Thesonofmynearneighborinthecountryintrusive？Really，now，Ilikethat！Grace！\"（thevoiceturnedinanotherdirection）\"hereistheAmericannephewofourneighborBunkeratWiddlestone，whothinksheis\'astranger。\'\"
\"WeallknewofyourexpectedarrivalatWiddlestone——itwassogoodofyoutowaiveceremonyandjoinus，\"saidawell-bredfemininevoice，whichPaulatonceassumedtobelongtothehostess。\"ButImustfindsomeoneforyourdinnerpartner。Mary\"
（herehervoicewaslikewiseturnedaway），\"thisisMr。Bunker，thenephewofanoldfriendandneighborinUpshire；\"（thevoiceagainturnedtohim），\"youwilltakeMissMorecampin。Mydear\"（onceagainaverted），\"ImustfindsomeoneelsetoconsolepoordearLordBillingtreewith。\"Herethehostess\'svoicewasdrownedbyfresharrivals。
Bewilderedandconfusedashewas，standinginthisemptydesertofadrawing-room，yetencompassedoneverysidebyhumanvoices，somarvelouswasthepowerofsuggestion，heseemedtoalmostfeeltheimpactoftheinvisiblecrowd。Hewastryingdesperatelytorealizehissituationwhenasingularlyfascinatingvoiceathiselbowunexpectedlyassistedhim。Itwasevidentlyhisdinnerpartner。
\"Isupposeyoumustbetiredafteryourjourney。Whendidyouarrive？\"
\"Onlyafewhoursago，\"saidPaul。
\"AndIdaresayyouhaven\'tsleptsinceyouarrived。Onedoesn\'tonthepassage，youknow；thetwentyhourspasssoquickly，andtheexperienceissoexciting——toUSatleast。ButIsupposeasanAmericanyouareusedtoit。\"
Paulgasped。Hehadpassivelyacceptedthebodilessconversation，becauseitwasatleastintelligible！ButNOW！Washegoingmad？
Sheevidentlynoticedhissilence。\"Nevermind，\"shecontinued，\"youcantellmeallaboutitatdinner。DoyouknowIalwaysthinkthatthissortofthing——whatwe\'redoingnow，——thisridiculousformalityofreception，——whichIsupposeisafterallonlyaconcessiontoourEnglishforceofhabit，——isabsurd！Weoughttopass，asitwere，directlyfromourhousestothedinner-
table。Itsavestime。\"
\"Yes——no——thatis——I\'mafraidIdon\'tfollowyou，\"stammeredPaul。
Therewasaslightpoutinhervoiceasshereplied：\"Nomatternow——wemustfollowthem——forourhostismovingoffwithLadyBillingtree，andit\'sourturnnow。\"
Sogreatwastheillusionthathefoundhimselfmechanicallyofferinghisarmashemovedthroughtheemptyroomtowardsthedoor。Thenhedescendedthestaircasewithoutanotherword，preceded，however，bythesoundofhishost\'svoice。Followingthisasablindmanmight，heenteredthedining-room，whichtohisdiscomfiturewasasemptyasthesalonabove。Stillfollowingthehost\'svoice，hedroppedintoachairbeforetheemptytable，wonderingwhatvariationoftheBarmecidefeastwasinstoreforhim。Yetthehumofvoicesfromthevacantchairsaroundtheboardsostronglyimpressedhimthathecouldalmostbelievethathewasactuallyatdinner。
\"Areyouseated？\"askedthecharmingvoiceathisside。
\"Yes，\"alittlewonderingly，ashiswastheonlyseatvisiblyoccupied。
\"Iamsogladthatthissillyceremonyisover。Bytheway，whereareyou？\"
Paulwouldhavelikedtoanswer，\"Lordonlyknows！\"buthereflectedthatitmightnotsoundpolite。\"WhereamI？\"hefeeblyrepeated。
\"Yes；whereareyoudining？\"
Itseemedacoolquestionunderthecircumstances，butheansweredpromptly，——
\"Withyou。\"
\"Ofcourse，\"saidthecharmingvoice；\"butwhereareyoueatingyourdinner？\"
Consideringthathewasnoteatinganything，Paulthoughtthiscoolerstill。Butheansweredbriefly，\"InUpshire。\"
\"Oh！Atyouruncle\'s？\"
\"No，\"saidPaulbluntly；\"inthenexthouse。\"
\"Why，that\'sSirWilliam\'s——ourhost\'s——andheandhisfamilyarehereinLondon。Youarejoking。\"
\"Listen！\"saidPauldesperately。Theninavoiceunconsciouslyloweredhehurriedlytoldherwherehewas——howhecamethere——theemptyhouse——theviewlesscompany！Tohissurprisetheonlyresponsewasamusicallittlelaugh。Butthenextmomenthervoicerosehigherwithanunmistakableconcerninit，apparentlyaddressingtheirinvisiblehost。
\"Oh，SirWilliam，onlythinkhowdreadful。Here\'spoorMr。Bunker，aloneinanemptyhouse，whichhehasmistakenforhisuncle\'s——andwithoutanydinner！\"
\"Really；dear，dear！Howprovoking！ButhowdoeshehappentobeWITHUS？James，howisthis？\"
\"Ifyouplease，SirWilliam，\"saidaservant\'srespectfulvoice，\"Widdlestoneisinthecircuitandisswitchedonwiththeothers。
Weheardthatagentleman\'sluggagehadarrivedatWiddlestone，andwetelegraphedfortheroomstobemadeready，thinkingwe\'dhaveherladyship\'sorderslater。\"
AsinglegleamofintelligenceflasheduponPaul。Hisluggage——
yes，hadbeensentfromthestationtothewronghouse，andhehadunwittinglyfollowed。Butthesevoices！whencedidtheycome？Andwherewastheactualdinneratwhichhishostwaspresiding？Itclearlywasnotatthisemptytable。
\"Seethathehaseverythinghewantsatonce，\"saidSirWilliam；
\"theremustbesomeonethere。\"ThenhisvoiceturnedinthedirectionofPaulagain，andhesaidlaughingly，\"Possessyoursoulandappetiteinpatienceforamoment，Mr。Bunker；youwillbeonlyacoursebehindus。Butweareluckyinhavingyourcompany——evenatyourowndiscomfort。\"
Stillmorebewildered，Paulturnedtohisinvisiblepartner。\"MayIaskwhereYOUaredining？\"
\"Certainly；athomeinCurzonStreet，\"returnedtheprettyvoice。
\"Itwasrainingso，Ididnotgoout。\"
\"And——LordBillington？\"falteredPaul。
\"Oh，he\'sinScotland——athisownplace。\"
\"Then，infact，nobodyisdininghereatall，\"saidPauldesperately。
Therewasaslightpause，andthenthevoiceresponded，withatouchofstartledsuggestioninit：\"Goodheavens，Mr。Bunker！Isitpossibleyoudon\'tknowwe\'rediningbytelephone？\"
\"Bywhat？\"
\"Telephone。Yes。We\'reatelephonicdinner-party。Wearedininginourownhouses；but，beingallfriends，we\'reswitchedontoeachother，andconverseexactlyaswewouldattable。Itsavesagreattroubleandexpense，foranyoneofuscangivetheparty，andthepoorestcanequalthemostextravagant。Peoplewhoareobligedtodietcanpartakeoftheirownslopsathome，andyetminglewiththegourmetswithoutawkwardnessorthenecessityofapology。Wearesparedthespectacle，atleast，ofthosewhoeatanddrinktoomuch。Wecanswitchoffaboreatonce。Wecanretirewhenwearefatigued，withoutleavingablankspacebeforetheothers。Andallthiswithoutsayinganythingofthehigherspiritualandintellectualeffect——freedfrommaterialgrossnessofappetiteandshow——whichthedinnerpartythusattains。Butyouaresurelyjoking！You，anAmerican，andnotknowit！Why，itcomesfromBoston。Haven\'tyoureadthatbook，\'JumpingaCentury\'？
It\'sbyanAmerican。\"
AstrangeilluminationcameuponPaul。Wherehadheheardsomethinglikethisbefore？Butatthesamemomenthisthoughtsweredivertedbythematerialentranceofafootman，bearingasilversalverwithhisdinner。Itwaspartofhissingularexperiencethatthevisibleentranceofthisreal，commonplacemortal——theonlyonehehadseen——inthemidstofthisvoicelesssolitudewasdistinctlyunreal，andhadalltheeffectofanapparition。Hedistrusteditandthedishesbeforehim。Buthislivelypartner\'svoicewasnowaddressinganunseenoccupantofthenextchair。Hadshegottiredofhisignorance，orwasitfemininetacttoenablehimtoeatsomething？Heacceptedthelatterhypothesis，andtriedtoeat。Buthefelthimselffollowingthefascinatingvoiceinallthecharmofitsyouthfulandspiritualinflections。Takingadvantageofitsmomentarysilence，hesaidgently，——
\"Iconfessmyignorance，andamwillingtoadmitallyouclaimforthiswonderfulinvention。Butdoyouthinkitcompensatesforthelossoftheindividualperson？Takemyowncase——ifyouwillnotthinkmepersonal。Ihaveneverhadthepleasureofseeingyou；doyoubelievethatIamcontentwithonlythatsuggestionofyourpersonalitywhichthesatisfactionofhearingyourvoiceaffordsme？\"
Therewasapause，andthenaverymischievousringinthevoicethatreplied：\"Itcertainlyisapersonalquestion，anditisanotherblessingofthisinventionthatyou\'llneverknowwhetherI
amblushingornot；butIforgiveyou，forIneverbeforespoketoanyoneIhadneverseen——andIsupposeit\'sconfusion。Butdoyoureallythinkyouwouldknowme——theREALone——anybetter？Itistherealpersonwhothinksandspeaks，nottheoutwardsemblancethatwesee，whichveryoftenunfairlyeitherattractsorrepelsus？WecanalwaysSHOWourselvesatourbest，butwemust，atlast，revealourtruecolorsthroughourthoughtsandspeech。
Isn\'titbettertobeginwiththerealthingfirst？\"
\"Ihope，atleast，tohavetheprivilegeofjudgingbymyself，\"
saidPaulgallantly。\"Youwillnotbesocruelasnottoletmeseeyouelsewhere，otherwiseIshallfeelasifIwereinsomedream，andwillcertainlybeopposedtoyourpreferenceforrealities。\"
\"Iamnotcertainifthedreamwouldnotbemoreinterestingtoyou，\"saidthevoicelaughingly。\"ButIthinkyourhostessisalreadysaying\'good-by。\'Youknoweverybodygoesatonceatthiskindofparty；theladiesdon\'tretirefirst，andthegentlemenjointhemafterwards。Inanothermomentwe\'llALLbeswitchedoff；
butSirWilliamwantsmetotellyouthathiscoachmanwilldriveyoutoyouruncle\'s，unlessyouprefertotryandmakeyourselfcomfortableforthenighthere。Good-by！\"
Thevoicesaroundhimseemedtogrowfainter，andthenutterlycease。Thelightssuddenlyleapedup，wentout，andlefthimincompletedarkness。Heattemptedtorise，butindoingsooversetthedishesbeforehim，whichslidtothefloor。Acoldairseemedtoblowacrosshisfeet。The\"good-by\"wasstillringinginhisearsashestraightenedhimselftofindhewasinhisrailwaycarriage，whosedoorhadjustbeenopenedforayoungladywhowasenteringthecompartmentfromawaysidestation。\"Good-by，\"sherepeatedtothefriendwhowasseeingheroff。TheWriterofStorieshurriedlystraightenedhimself，gatheredupthemagazinesandpapersthathadfallenfromhislap，andglancedatthestationwalls。Theoldillustrationsglancedbackathim！Helookedathiswatch；hehadbeenasleepjusttenminutes！
BOHEMIANDAYSINSANFRANCISCO
ItisbutjusttotherespectablememoryofSanFranciscothatinthesevagrantrecollectionsIshoulddeprecateatonceanysuggestionthatthelevityofmytitledescribeditsdominanttoneatanyperiodofmyearlyexperiences。Onthecontrary，itwasasingularfactthatwhiletherestofCaliforniawasswayedbyaneasy，carelessunconventionalism，orsweptoverbywavesofemotionandsentiment，SanFranciscopreservedanintenselymaterialandpracticalattitude，andevenacertainausteremorality。Idonot，ofcourse，alludetothebriefdaysof\'49，whenitwasastragglingbeachofhutsandstrandedhulks，buttotheearlierstagesofitsdevelopmentintothemetropolisofCalifornia。Itsfirsttotteringstepsinthatdirectionweremarkedbyadistinctgravityanddecorum。Evenduringtheperiodwhentherevolversettledsmallprivatedifficulties，andVigilanceCommitteesadjudicatedlargerpublicones，anunmistakableseriousnessandrespectabilitywastherulingsignofitsgoverningclass。ItwasnotimprobablethatunderthereignoftheCommitteethelawlessandviciousclassweremoreappalledbythemoralspectacleofseveralthousandblack-coated，serious-mindedbusinessmeninembattledprocessionthanbymereforceofarms，andone\"suspect\"——
aprize-fighter——isknowntohavecommittedsuicideinhiscellafterconfrontationwithhisgraveandpassionlessshopkeepingjudges。EventhatpeculiarqualityofCalifornianhumorwhichwasapttomitigatetheextravagancesoftherevolverandtheuncertaintiesofpokerhadnoplaceinthedecorousandresponsibleutteranceofSanFrancisco。Thepresswassober，materialistic，practical——whenitwasnotseverelyadmonitoryofexistingevil；
thefewsmallerpapersthatindulgedinlevitywereconsideredlibelousandimproper。FancywasdisplacedbyheavyarticlesontherevenuesoftheStateandinducementstotheinvestmentofcapital。Localnewswasunderanimpliedcensorshipwhichsuppressedanythingthatmighttendtodiscouragetimidorcautiouscapital。Episodesofromanticlawlessnessorpatheticincidentsofmininglifewerecarefullyedited——withthecommentthatthesethingsbelongedtothepast，andthatlifeandpropertywerenow\"assafeinSanFranciscoasinNewYorkorLondon。\"
Wonder-lovingvisitorsinquestofscenescharacteristicofthecivilizationwerecoldlysnubbedwiththisassurance。Fires，floods，andevenseismicconvulsionsweresubjectedtoalikegrimlymaterialisticoptimism。Ihaveavividrecollectionofaponderouseditorialononeofthesevererearthquakes，inwhichitwasassertedthatonlytheUNEXPECTEDNESSoftheonsetpreventedSanFranciscofrommeetingitinawaythatwouldbedeterrentofallfutureattacks。Theunconsciousnessofthehumorwasonlyequaledbythegravitywithwhichitwasreceivedbythewholebusinesscommunity。Strangelyenough，thisgravematerialismflourishedsidebysidewith——andwasevensustainedby——anarrowreligiousstrictnessmorecharacteristicofthePilgrimFathersofapastcenturythantheWesternpioneersofthepresent。SanFranciscowasearlyacityofchurchesandchurchorganizationstowhichtheleadingmenandmerchantsbelonged。ThelaxSundaysofthedyingSpanishraceseemedonlytoprovokearevivaloftherigorsofthePuritanSabbath。WiththeSpaniardandhisSundayafternoonbullfightscarcelyanhourdistant，theSanFranciscopulpitthunderedagainstSundaypicnics。Oneofthepopularpreachers，declaiminguponthepracticeofSundaydinner-giving，averredthatwhenhesawaguestinhisbestSundayclothesstandingshamelesslyuponthedoorstepofhishost，hefeltlikeseizinghimbytheshoulderanddragginghimfromthatthresholdofperdition。
Againsttheactualheathenthefeelingwasevenstronger，andreacheditsclimaxoneSundaywhenaChinamanwasstonedtodeathbyacrowdofchildrenreturningfromSunday-school。Iamofferingtheseexampleswithnoethicalpurpose，butmerelytoindicateasingularcontradictoryconditionwhichIdonotthinkwritersofearlyCalifornianhistoryhavefairlyrecorded。Itisnotmyprovincetosuggestanytheoryfortheseappallingexceptionstotheusualgood-humoredlawlessnessandextravaganceoftherestoftheState。Theymayhavebeenessentialagenciestothegrowthandevolutionofthecity。Theywereundoubtedlysincere。TheimpressionsIproposetogiveofcertainscenesandincidentsofmyearlyexperiencemust，therefore，betakenaspurelypersonalandBohemian，andtheirselectionasequallyindividualandvagrant。I
amwritingofwhatinterestedmeatthetime，thoughnotperhapsofwhatwasmoregenerallycharacteristicofSanFrancisco。
Ihadbeenthereaweek——anidleweek，spentinlistlessoutlookforemployment；afullweekinmyeagerabsorptionofthestrangelifearoundmeandaphotographicsensitivenesstocertainscenesandincidentsofthosedays，whichstartoutofmymemoryto-dayasfreshlyasthedaytheyimpressedme。
Oneoftheserecollectionsisof\"steamernight，\"asitwascalled，——thenightof\"steamerday，\"——precedingthedepartureofthemailsteamshipwiththemailsfor\"home。\"Indeed，atthattimeSanFranciscomaybesaidtohavelivedfromsteamerdaytosteamerday；billsweremadedueonthatday，interestcomputedtothatperiod，andaccountssettled。Thenextdaywastheturningofanewleaf：anotheressaytofortune，anotherinspirationofenergy。
Sorecognizedwasthefactthatevenordinarychangesofcondition，socialanddomestic，wereputasideuntilAFTERsteamerday。\"I\'llseewhatIcandoafternextsteamerday\"wasthecommoncautiousorhopefulformula。Itwasthe\"Saturdaynight\"ofmanyawage-
earner——andtohimanightoffestivity。Thethoroughfareswereanimatedandcrowded；thesaloonsandtheatresfull。IcanrecallmyselfatsuchtimeswanderingalongtheCityFront，asthebusinesspartofSanFranciscowasthenknown。Herethelightswereburningallnight，thefirststreaksofdawnfindingthemerchantsstillattheircounting-housedesks。Irememberthedimlinesofwarehousesliningtheinsecurewharvesofrottenpiles，halffilledin——thathadceasedtobewharves，buthadnotyetbecomestreets，——theirtreacherousyawningdepths，withtheuncertaingleamoftarlikemudbelow，attimesstillvocalwiththelapandgurgleofthetide。Iremembertheweirdstoriesofdisappearingmenfoundafterwardimbeddedintheoozeinwhichtheyhadfallenandgaspedtheirlifeaway。Irememberthetwoorthreeships，stillleftstandingwheretheywerebeachedayearortwobefore，builtinbetweenwarehouses，theirbowsprojectingintotheroadway。Therewasthedignityoftheseaanditsboundlessfreedomintheirbeautifulcurves，whichtheabuttinghousescouldnotdestroy，andevensomethingofthesea\'slonelinessinthefar-
spacedportsandcabinwindowslitupbythelampsoftheprosaiclandsmenwhopliedtheirtradesbehindthem。Oneoftheseships，transformedintoahotel，retaineditsname，theNiantic，andpartofitscharacteristicinteriorunchanged。Iremembertheseships\'
oldtenants——therats——whohadincreasedandmultipliedtosuchanextentthatatnighttheyfearlesslycrossedthewayfarer\'spathateveryturn，andeveninvadedthegildedsaloonsofMontgomeryStreet。IntheNiantictheirpit-a-patwasmetoneverystaircase，anditwassaidthatsometimesinanexcessofsociabilitytheyaccompaniedthetravelertohisroom。Intheearly\"cloth-and-
papered\"houses——socalledbecausetheceilingswerenotplastered，butsimplycoveredbystretchedandwhitewashedcloth——theirscamperingswereplainlyindicatedinzigzagmovementsofthesaggingcloth，ortheybecameactuallyvisiblebyfinallydroppingthroughtheholestheyhadworninit！Irememberthehousewhosefoundationsweremadeofboxesofplugtobacco——partofajettisonedcargo——usedinsteadofmoreexpensivelumber；andtheadjacentwarehousewherethetrunksoftheearlyandforgotten\"forty-niners\"werestored，and——neverclaimedbytheirdeadormissingowners——werefinallysoldatauction。Irememberthestrongbreathoftheseaoverall，andtheconstantonsetofthetradewindswhichhelpedtodisinfectthedepositofdirtandgrime，decayandwreckage，whichwerestirredupinthelaterevolutionsofthecity。
OrIrecall，withthesamesenseofyouthfulsatisfactionandunabatedwonder，mywanderingsthroughtheSpanishQuarter，wherethreecenturiesofquaintcustoms，speech，anddresswerestillpreserved；wheretheproverbsofSanchoPanzawerestillspokeninthelanguageofCervantes，andthehigh-flownillusionsoftheLaManchianknightstillapartoftheSpanishCalifornianhidalgo\'sdream。Irecallthemoremodern\"Greaser，\"orMexican——hisindexfingersteepedincigarettestains；hisvelvetjacketandhiscrimsonsash；themany-flouncedskirtandlacemantaofhiswomen，andtheircaressingintonations——theonemusicalutteranceofthewholehard-voicedcity。IsupposeIhadaboy\'sdigestionandbluntnessoftasteinthosedays，forthecombinedodoroftobacco，burnedpaper，andgarlic，whichmarkedthatmelodiousbreath，didnotaffectme。
PerhapsfrommyPuritantrainingIexperiencedamorefearfuljoyinthegamblingsaloons。Theywerethelargestandmostcomfortable，evenastheywerethemostexpensivelydecoratedroomsinSanFrancisco。HereagainthegravityanddecorumwhichIhavealreadyalludedtowerepresentatthatearlierperiod——thoughperhapsfromconcentrationofanotherkind。PeoplestakedandlosttheirlastdollarwithacalmsolemnityandaresignationthatwasalmostChristian。Theoaths，exclamations，andfeverishinterruptionswhichoftencharacterizedmoredignifiedassemblieswereabsenthere。Therewasnoroomforthelesservices；therewaslittleornodrunkenness；thegaudilydressedandpaintedwomenwhopresidedoverthewheelsoffortuneorperformedontheharpandpianoattractednoattentionfromthoseasceticplayers。Themanwhohadwontenthousanddollarsandthemanwhohadlosteverythingrosefromthetablewithequalsilenceandimperturbability。Ineverwitnessedanytragicsequeltothoselosses；Ineverheardofanysuicideonaccountofthem。NeithercanIrecallanyquarrelormurderdirectlyattributabletothiskindofgambling。Itmustberememberedthatthesepublicgameswerechieflyrougeetnoir，monte，faro，orroulette，inwhichtheantagonistwasFate，Chance，Method，ortheimpersonal\"bank，\"whichwassupposedtorepresentthemall；therewasnoindividualoppositionorrivalry；nobodychallengedthedecisionofthe\"croupier，\"ordealer。
Irememberaconversationatthedoorofonesaloonwhichwasascharacteristicforitsbrevityasitwasatypeoftheprevailingstoicism。\"Hello！\"saidadepartingminer，asherecognizedabrotherminercomingin，\"whendidyoucomedown？\"\"Thismorning，\"
wasthereply。\"Madeastrikeonthebar？\"suggestedthefirstspeaker。\"Youbet！\"saidtheother，andpassedin。Ichancedanhourlatertobeatthesameplaceastheymetagain——theirrelativepositionschanged。\"Hello！Wharnow？\"saidtheincomer。
\"Backtothebar。\"\"Cleanedout？\"\"Youbet！\"Notawordmoreexplainedacommonsituation。
Myfirstyouthfulexperienceatthosetableswasanaccidentalone。
Iwaswatchingrouletteoneevening，intenselyabsorbedinthemeremovementoftheplayers。Eithertheyweresopreoccupiedwiththegame，orIwasreallyolderlookingthanmyactualyears，butabystanderlaidhishandfamiliarlyonmyshoulder，andsaid，astoanordinaryhabitue，\"Efyou\'renotchippin\'inyourself，pardner，s\'poseyougiveMEashow。\"NowIhonestlybelievethatuptothatmomentIhadnointention，norevenadesire，totrymyownfortune。ButintheembarrassmentofthesuddenaddressIputmyhandinmypocket，drewoutacoin，andlaidit，withanattemptatcarelessness，butavividconsciousnessthatIwasblushing，uponavacantnumber。TomyhorrorIsawthatIhadputdownalargecoin——thebulkofmypossessions！Ididnotflinch，however；I
thinkanyboywhoreadsthiswillunderstandmyfeeling；itwasnotonlymycoinbutmymanhoodatstake。Igazedwithamiserableshowofindifferenceattheplayers，atthechandelier——anywherebutatthedreadfulballspinningroundthewheel。Therewasapause；thegamewasdeclared，therakerattledupanddown，butstillIdidnotlookatthetable。Indeed，inmyinexperienceofthegameandmyembarrassment，IdoubtifIshouldhaveknownifI
hadwonornot。IhadmadeupmymindthatIshouldlose，butI
mustdosolikeaman，and，aboveall，withoutgivingtheleastsuspicionthatIwasagreenhorn。Ievenaffectedtobelisteningtothemusic。Thewheelspunagain；thegamewasdeclared，therakewasbusy，butIdidnotmove。AtlastthemanIhaddisplacedtouchedmeonthearmandwhispered，\"Bettermakeastraddleanddivideyourstakethistime。\"Ididnotunderstandhim，butasI
sawhewaslookingattheboard，Iwasobligedtolook，too。I
drewbackdazedandbewildered！Wheremycoinhadlainamomentbeforewasaglitteringheapofgold。
Mystakehaddoubled，quadrupled，anddoubledagain。Ididnotknowhowmuchthen——-Idonotknownow——itmayhavebeennotmorethanthreeorfourhundreddollars——butitdazzledandfrightenedme。\"Makeyourgame，gentlemen，\"saidthecroupiermonotonously。
Ithoughthelookedatme——indeed，everybodyseemedtobelookingatme——andmycompanionrepeatedhiswarning。ButhereImustagainappealtotheboyishreaderindefenseofmyidioticobstinacy。Tohavetakenadvicewouldhaveshownmyyouth。I
shookmyhead——Icouldnottrustmyvoice。Ismiled，butwithasinkingheart，andletmystakeremain。Theballagainspedroundthewheel，andstopped。Therewasapause。Thecroupierindolentlyadvancedhisrakeandsweptmywholepilewithothersintothebank！Ihadlostitall。PerhapsitmaybedifficultformetoexplainwhyIactuallyfeltrelieved，andeventosomeextenttriumphant，butIseemedtohaveassertedmygrown-upindependence——
possiblyatthecostofreducingthenumberofmymealsfordays；
butwhatofthat！Iwasaman！IwishIcouldsaythatitwasalessontome。Iamafraiditwasnot。ItwastruethatIdidnotgambleagain，butthenIhadnoespecialdesireto——andtherewasnotemptation。Iamafraiditwasanincidentwithoutamoral。
YetithadonetouchcharacteristicoftheperiodwhichIliketoremember。Themanwhohadspokentome，Ithink，suddenlyrealized，atthemomentofmydisastrouscoup，thefactofmyextremeyouth。Hemovedtowardthebanker，andleaningoverhimwhisperedafewwords。Thebankerlookedup，halfimpatiently，halfkindly——hishandstrayingtentativelytowardthepileofcoin。
Iinstinctivelyknewwhathemeant，and，summoningmydetermination，methiseyeswithalltheindifferenceIcouldassume，andwalkedaway。
Ihadatthatperiodasmallroomatthetopofahouseownedbyadistantrelation——asecondorthirdcousin，Ithink。Hewasamanofindependentandoriginalcharacter，hadaUlysseanexperienceofmenandcities，andanoldEnglishnameofwhichhewasproud。
WhileinLondonhehadprocuredfromtheHeralds\'Collegehisfamilyarms，whosecrestwasstampeduponaquantityofplatehehadbroughtwithhimtoCalifornia。Theplate，togetherwithanexceptionallygoodcook，whichhehadalsobrought，andhisownepicureantastes，heutilizedintheusualpracticalCalifornianfashionbystartingaratherexpensivehalf-club，half-restaurantinthelowerpartofthebuilding——whichheruledsomewhatautocratically，asbecamehiscrest。Therestaurantwastooexpensiveformetopatronize，butIsawmanyofitsfrequentersaswellasthosewhohadroomsattheclub。Theyweremenofverydistinctpersonality；afewcelebrated，andnearlyallnotorious。
TheyrepresentedaBohemianism——ifsuchitcouldbecalled——lessinnocentthanmylaterexperiences。Iremember，however，onehandsomeyoungfellowwhomIusedtomeetoccasionallyonthestaircase，whocapturedmyyouthfulfancy。Imethimonlyatmidday，ashedidnotrisetilllate，andthisfact，withacertainscrupulouseleganceandneatnessinhisdress，oughttohavemademesuspectthathewasagambler。Inmyinexperienceitonlyinvestedhimwithacertainromanticmystery。
OnemorningasIwasgoingouttomyveryearlybreakfastatacheapItaliancafeonLongWharf，Iwassurprisedtofindhimalsodescendingthestaircase。Hewasscrupulouslydressedevenatthatearlyhour，butIwasstruckbythefactthathewasallinblack，andhisslightfigure，buttonedtothethroatinatightlyfittingfrockcoat，gave，Ifancied，asingularmelancholytohispaleSouthernface。Nevertheless，hegreetedmewithmorethanhisusualserenecordiality，andIrememberedthathelookedupwithahalf-puzzled，half-amusedexpressionattherosymorningskyashewalkedafewstepswithmedownthedesertedstreet。IcouldnothelpsayingthatIwasastonishedtoseehimupsoearly，andheadmittedthatitwasabreakinhisusualhabits，butaddedwithasmilingsignificanceIafterwardsrememberedthatitwas\"anevenchanceifhediditagain。\"Aswenearedthestreetcorneramaninabuggydroveupimpatiently。Inspiteofthedriver\'sevidenthaste，myhandsomeacquaintancegotinleisurely，and，liftinghisglossyhattomewithapleasantsmile，wasdrivenaway。Ihaveaverylastingrecollectionofhisfaceandfigureasthebuggydisappeareddowntheemptystreet。Ineversawhimagain。ItwasnotuntilaweeklaterthatIknewthatanhourafterheleftmethatmorninghewaslyingdeadinalittlehollowbehindtheMissionDolores——shotthroughtheheartinaduelforwhichhehadrisensoearly。
Irecallanotherincidentofthatperiod，equallycharacteristic，buthappilylesstragicinsequel。Iwasintherestaurantonemorningtalkingtomycousinwhenamanenteredhastilyandsaidsomethingtohiminahurriedwhisper。Mycousincontractedhiseyebrowsandutteredasuppressedoath。Thenwithagestureofwarningtothemanhecrossedtheroomquietlytoatablewherearegularhabitueoftherestaurantwaslazilyfinishinghisbreakfast。Alargesilvercoffee-potwithastiffwoodenhandlestoodonthetablebeforehim。Mycousinleanedovertheguestfamiliarlyandapparentlymadesomehospitableinquiryastohiswants，withhishandrestinglightlyonthecoffee-pothandle。
Then——possiblybecause，mycuriosityhavingbeenexcited，Iwaswatchinghimmoreintentlythantheothers——Isawwhatprobablynooneelsesaw——thathedeliberatelyupsetthecoffee-potanditscontentsovertheguest\'sshirtandwaistcoat。Asthevictimsprangupwithanexclamation，mycousinoverwhelmedhimwithapologiesforhiscarelessness，and，withprotestationsofsorrowfortheaccident，actuallyinsistedupondraggingthemanupstairsintohisownprivateroom，wherehefurnishedhimwithashirtandwaistcoatofhisown。Thesidedoorhadscarcelycloseduponthem，andIwasstilllostinwonderatwhatIhadseen，whenamanenteredfromthestreet。HewasoneofthedesperatesetIhavealreadyspokenof，andthoroughlywellknowntothosepresent。Hecastaglancearoundtheroom，noddedtooneortwooftheguests，andthenwalkedtoasidetableandtookupanewspaper。Iwasconsciousatoncethatasingularconstrainthadcomeovertheotherguests——anervousawkwardnessthatatlastseemedtomakeitselfknowntothemanhimself，who，afteranaffectedyawnortwo，laiddownthepaperandwalkedout。
\"Thatwasamightyclosecall，\"saidoneoftheguestswithasighofrelief。
\"Youbet！Andthatcoffee-potspillwastheluckiestkindofaccidentforPeters，\"returnedanother。
\"Forboth，\"addedthefirstspeaker，\"forPeterswasarmedtoo，andwouldhaveseenhimcomein！\"
Awordortwoexplainedall。Petersandthelastcomerhadquarreledadayortwobefore，andhadseparatedwiththeintentionto\"shootonsight，\"thatis，wherevertheymet，——aformofduelcommontothosedays。Theaccidentalmeetingintherestaurantwouldhavebeentheoccasion，withtheusualsanguinaryconsequence，butforthewordofwarninggiventomycousinbyapasser-bywhoknewthatPeters\'antagonistwascomingtotherestauranttolookatthepapers。HadmycousinrepeatedthewarningtoPetershimselfhewouldonlyhavepreparedhimfortheconflict——whichhewouldnothaveshirked——andsoprecipitatedtheaffray。
Theruseofupsettingthecoffee-pot，whicheverybodybutmyselfthoughtanaccident，wastogethimoutoftheroombeforetheotherentered。Iwastooyoungthentoventuretointrudeuponmycousin\'ssecrets，buttwoorthreeyearsafterwardsItaxedhimwiththetrickandheadmitteditregretfully。Ibelievethatastrictinterpretationofthe\"code\"wouldhavecondemnedhisactasunsportsmanlike，ifnotUNFAIR！
Irecallanotherincidentconnectedwiththebuildingequallycharacteristicoftheperiod。TheUnitedStatesBranchMintstoodverynearit，anditstall，factory-likechimneysovershadowedmycousin\'sroof。Somescandalhadarisenfromanallegedleakageofgoldinthemanipulationofthatmetalduringthevariousprocessesofsmeltingandrefining。Oneoftheexcusesofferedwasthevolatilizationofthepreciousmetalanditsescapethroughthedraftofthetallchimneys。AllSanFranciscolaughedatthisexplanationuntilitlearnedthatacorroborationofthetheoryhadbeenestablishedbyanassayofthedustandgrimeoftheroofsinthevicinityoftheMint。Thesehadyieldeddistincttracesofgold。SanFranciscostoppedlaughing，andthatportionofitwhichhadroofsintheneighborhoodatoncebeganprospecting。Claimswerestakedoutontheseairyplacers，andmycousin\'sroof，beingtheverynextonetothechimney，andpresumably\"inthelead，\"wasdisposedoftoaspeculativecompanyforaconsiderablesum。I
remembermycousintellingmethestory——fortheoccurrencewasquiterecent——andtakingmewithhimtotherooftoexplainit，butIamafraidIwasmoreattractedbythemysteryofthecloselyguardedbuilding，andthestrangelytintedsmokewhicharosefromthistemplewheremoneywasactuallybeing\"made，\"thanbyanythingelse。NordidIdreamasIstoodthere——averylanky，open-mouthedyouth——thatonlythreeorfouryearslaterIshouldbethesecretaryofitssuperintendent。InmymoreadventurousambitionI
amafraidIwouldhaveacceptedthesuggestionhalf-heartedly。
Merelytohavehelpedtostampthegoldwhichotherpeoplehadadventurouslyfoundwasbynomeansapartofmyyouthfuldreams。
AtthetimeoftheseearlierimpressionstheChinesehadnotyetbecometherecognizedfactorsinthedomesticandbusinesseconomyofthecitywhichtheyhadcometobewhenIreturnedfromtheminesthreeyearslater。Yettheywereeventhenamoreremarkableandpicturesquecontrasttothebustling，breathless，andbrand-newlifeofSanFranciscothantheSpaniard。Thelatterseldomflauntedhisfadeddignityintheprincipalthoroughfares。\"John\"
wastobemeteverywhere。Itwasacommonthingtoseealongfileofsampancooliescarryingtheirbasketsslungbetweenthem，onpoles，jostlingamodern，well-dressedcrowdinMontgomeryStreet，ortogetawhiffoftheirburnedpunkinthesidestreets；whiletheroadleadingtotheirtemporaryburial-groundatLoneMountainwaslitteredwithslipsofcoloredpaperscatteredfromtheirfunerals。TheybroughtanatmosphereoftheArabianNightsintothehard，moderncivilization；theirshops——notalwaysconfinedatthattimetoaChinesequarter——werereplicasofthebazaarsofCantonandPeking，withtheirquaintdisplayoflittledishesonwhichtidbitsoffooddelicacieswereexposedforsale，allofthedimensionsandunrealityofadoll\'skitchenorachild\'shousekeeping。
TheywerearevelationtotheEasternimmigrant，whosepreconceivedideasofthemwereborrowedfromtheballetorpantomime；theydidnotwearscallopeddrawersandhatswithjinglingbellsontheirpoints，nordidIeverseethemdancewiththeirforefingersverticallyextended。Theywerealwaysneatlydressed，eventhecommonestofcoolies，andtheirfestivedressesweremarvels。Astraderstheyweregraveandpatient；asservantstheyweresadandcivil，andallweresingularlyinfantineintheirnaturalsimplicity。Thelivingrepresentativesoftheoldestcivilizationintheworld，theyseemedlikechildren。Yettheykepttheirbeliefsandsympathiestothemselves，neverfraternizingwiththefanqui，orforeigndevil，orlosingtheirsingularracialqualities。Theyindulgedintheirownpeculiarhabits；oftheirsocialandinnerlife，SanFranciscoknewbutlittleandcaredless。Evenatthisearlyperiod，andbeforeIcametoknowthemmoreintimately，Irememberanincidentoftheirdaringfidelitytotheirowncustomsthatwasaccidentallyrevealedtome。IhadbecomeacquaintedwithaChineseyouthofaboutmyownage，asI
imagined，——althoughfrommereoutwardappearanceitwasgenerallyimpossibletojudgeofaChinaman\'sagebetweenthelimitsofseventeenandfortyyears，——andhehad，inaburstofconfidence，takenmetoseesomecharacteristicsightsinaChinesewarehousewithinastone\'sthrowofthePlaza。IwasstruckbythesingularcircumstancethatwhilethewarehousewasanerectionofwoodintheordinaryhastyCalifornianstyle，therewerecertainbrickandstonedivisionsinitsinterior，likesmallroomsorclosets，evidentlyaddedbytheChinamentenants。Mycompanionstoppedbeforealong，verynarrowentrance，amerelongitudinalslitinthebrickwall，andwithawinkofinfantinedeviltrymotionedmetolookinside。Ididso，andsawaroom，reallyacell，offairheightbutscarcelysixfeetsquare，andbarelyabletocontainarude，slantingcouchofstonecoveredwithmatting，onwhichlay，atapainfulangle，arichlydressedChinaman。Asingleglanceathisdull，staring，abstractedeyesandhalf-openedmouthshowedmehewasinanopiumtrance。Thiswasnotinitselfanovelsight，andIwasmovingawaywhenIwassuddenlystartledbytheappearanceofhishands，whichwerestretchedhelplesslybeforehimonhisbody，andatfirstsightseemedtobeinakindofwickercage。
Ithensawthathisfinger-nailsweresevenoreightincheslong，andweresupportedbybamboosplints。Indeed，theywerenolongerhumannails，buttwistedanddistortedquills，givinghimtheappearanceofhavinggiganticclaws。\"VellybigChinaman，\"
whisperedmycheerfulfriend；\"first-chopman——highclassee——nocanwashee——nocaneat——nodlinke，nocatcheehimowngluballeesamenotheeman——Chinaboymustcatcheeglubforhim，alleetime！Oh，himfirst-chopman——youbettee！\"
Ihadheardofthissingularcustomofindicatingcastebefore，andwasamazedanddisgusted，butIwasnotpreparedforwhatfollowed。
Mycompanion，evidentlythinkinghehadimpressedme，grewmorerecklessasshowman，andsayingtome，\"Nowmeshoweeyouonefunnything——heapmakeeyoulaugh，\"ledmehurriedlyacrossalittlecourtyardswarmingwithchickensandrabbits，whenhestoppedbeforeanotherinclosure。SuddenlybrushingpastanastonishedChinamanwhoseemedtobestandingguard，hethrustmeintotheinclosureinfrontofamostextraordinaryobject。ItwasaChinaman，wearingahuge，square，woodenframefastenedaroundhisnecklikeacollar，andfittingsotightlyandrigidlythatthefleshroseinpuffywealsaroundhischeeks。Hewaschainedtoapost，althoughitwasasimpossibleforhimtohaveescapedwithhiswoodencagethroughthenarrowdoorwayasitwasforhimtoliedownandrestinit。YetIamboundtosaythathiseyesandfaceexpressednothingbutapathy，andtherewasnoappealtothesympathyofthestranger。Mycompanionsaidhurriedly，——
\"Vellybadman；stealeeheapfromChinamen，\"andthen，apparentlyalarmedathisownindiscreetintrusion，hustledmeawayasquicklyaspossibleamidashrillcacklingofprotestationfromafewofhisowncountrymenwhohadjoinedtheonewhowaskeepingguard。
Inanothermomentwewereinthestreetagain——scarceastepfromthePlaza，inthefulllightofWesterncivilization——notastone\'sthrowfromthecourtsofjustice。
Mycompaniontooktohisheelsandleftmestandingtherebewilderedandindignant。IcouldnotrestuntilIhadtoldmystory，butwithoutbetrayingmycompanion，toanelderacquaintance，wholaidthefactsbeforethepoliceauthorities。Ihadexpectedtobecloselycross-examined——tobedoubted——tobedisbelieved。Tomysurprise，Iwastoldthatthepolicehadalreadycognizanceofsimilarcasesofillegalandbarbarouspunishments，butthatthevictimsthemselvesrefusedtotestifyagainsttheircountrymen——anditwasimpossibletoconvictoreventoidentifythem。\"Awhitemancan\'ttelloneChinesefromanother，andtherearealwaysadozenof\'emreadytoswearthatthemanyou\'vegotisn\'ttheone。\"IwasstartledtoreflectthatI，too，couldnothaveconscientiouslysworntoeitherjailororthetorturedprisoner——orperhapseventomycheerfulcompanion。Thepolice，onsomepretext，madearaiduponthepremisesadayortwoafterwards，butwithoutresult。I
wonderediftheyhadcaughtsightofthehigh-class，first-chopindividual，withthehelplesslyoutstretchedfingers，asthatstoryIhadkepttomyself。
ButthesebarbaricvestigesinJohnChinaman\'shabitsdidnotaffecthisrelationswiththeSanFranciscans。Hewassingularlypeaceful，docile，andharmlessasaservant，and，withrareexceptions，honestandtemperate。Ifhesometimesmatchedcunningwithcunning，itwastheflatteryofimitation。HedidmostofthemenialworkofSanFrancisco，anddiditcleanly。Exceptthatheexhaledapeculiardruglikeodor，hewasnotpersonallyoffensiveindomesticcontact，andbyvirtueofbeingtherecognizedlaundrymanofthewholecommunityhisownblouseswerealwaysfreshlywashedandironed。Hisconversationalreservearose，notfromhishavingtodealwithanunfamiliarlanguage，——forhehadpickedupapicturesqueandvariedvocabularywithease，——butfromhisnaturaltemperament。Hewasdevoidofcuriosity，andutterlyunimpressedbyanythingbutthepurelybusinessconcernsofthoseheserved。Domesticsecretsweresafewithhim；hisindifferencetoyourthoughts，actions，andfeelingshadallthecontemptwhichhisthreethousandyearsofhistoryandhisinnatebeliefinyourinferiorityseemedtojustify。Hewasblindanddeafinyourhouseholdbecauseyoudidn\'tinteresthimintheleast。Itwassaidthatagentleman，whowishedtotesthisimpassiveness，arrangedwithhiswifetocomehomeonedayand，inthehearingofhisChinesewaiterwhowasmorethanusuallyintelligent——todisclosewithwell-simulatedemotionthedetailsofamurderhehadjustcommitted。Hedidso。TheChinamanhearditwithoutasignofhorrororattentioneventotheliftingofaneyelid，butcontinuedhisdutiesunconcerned。Unfortunately，thegentleman，inordertoincreasethehorrorofthesituation，addedthatnowtherewasnothingleftforhimbuttocuthisthroat。AtthisJohnquietlylefttheroom。ThegentlemanwasdelightedatthesuccessofhisruseuntilthedoorreopenedandJohnreappearedwithhismaster\'srazor，whichhequietlyslipped——asifithadbeenaforgottenfork——besidehismaster\'splate，andcalmlyresumedhisserving。Ihavealwaysconsideredthisstorytobequiteasimprobableasitwasinartistic，fromitstacitadmissionofacertaininterestonthepartoftheChinaman。Ineverknewonewhowouldhavebeensufficientlyconcernedtogofortherazor。
Histaciturnityandreticencemayhavebeenconfoundedwithrudenessofaddress，althoughhewasalwayscivilenough。\"IseeyouhavelistenedtomeanddoneexactlywhatItoldyou，\"saidalady，commendingsomeperformanceofherservantafterapreviouslengthylecture；\"that\'sverynice。\"\"Yes，\"saidJohncalmly，\"youtalkeealleetime；talkeealleetoomuch。\"\"IalwaysfindLingverypolite，\"saidanotherlady，speakingofhercook，\"butIwishhedidnotalwayssaytome，\'Goodnight，John，\'inahighfalsettovoice。\"Shehadnotrecognizedthefactthathewassimplyrepeatingherownsalutationwithhismarvelousinstinctofrelentlessimitation，evenastovoice。Ihesitatetorecordtheendlessstoriesofhismisapplicationofthatfacultywhichwerethencurrent，fromtheoneofthelaundrymanwhoremovedthebuttonsfromtheshirtsthatweresenttohimtowashthattheymightagreewiththeconditionoftheoneofferedhimasapatternfor\"doingup，\"tothatoftheunfortunateemployerwho，whileshowingJohnhowtohandlevaluablechinacarefully，hadthemisfortunetodropaplatehimself——anaccidentwhichwasfollowedbythepromptbreakingofanotherbytheneophyte，withtheadditionof\"Oh，hellee！\"inhumbleimitationofhismaster。
Ihavespokenofhisgeneralcleanliness；Iamremindedofoneortwoexceptions，whichIthink，however，wereerrorsofzeal。Hismannerofsprinklingclothesinpreparingthemforironingwaspeculiar。Hewouldfillhismouthwithperfectlypurewaterfromaglassbesidehim，andthen，byonedexterousmovementofhislipsinaprolongedexpiration，squirtthewaterinanalmostinvisiblemistyshoweronthearticlebeforehim。ShockingasthiswasatfirsttothesensibilitiesofmanyAmericanemployers，itwasfinallyaccepted，andevencommended。Itwassometimeafterthisthatthemistressofahousehold，admiringthedeftwayinwhichhercookhadspreadawhitesauceoncertaindishes，wascheerfullyinformedthatthemethodwas\"alleesame。\"
Hisrecreationsatthattimewerechieflygambling，fortheChinesetheatrewhereinthelatterproducedhisplays（whichlastedforseveralmonthsandcomprisedtheeventsofawholedynasty）wasnotyetbuilt。ButhehadoneortwocompaniesofjugglerswhooccasionallyperformedalsoatAmericantheatres。Irememberasingularincidentwhichattendedthedebutofanewlyarrivedcompany。ItseemedthatthecompanyhadbeentakenontheirChinesereputationsolely，andtherehadbeennopreviousrehearsalbeforetheAmericanstagemanager。ThetheatrewasfilledwithanaudienceofdecorousandrespectableSanFranciscansofbothsexes。
Itwassuddenlyemptiedinthemiddleoftheperformance；thecurtaincamedownwithanalarmedandblushingmanagerapologizingtodesertedbenches，andtheshowabruptlyterminated。ExactlyWHAThadhappenedneverappearedinthepublicpapers，norinthepublishedapologyofthemanager。Itaffordedafewdays\'mirthforwickedSanFrancisco，anditwasepigrammaticallysummedupintheremarkthat\"nowomancouldbefoundinSanFranciscowhowasatthatperformance，andnomanwhowasnot。\"YetitwasallegedevenbyJohn\'sworstdetractorsthathewasinnocentofanyintendedoffense。Equallyinnocent，butperhapsmoremorallyinstructive，wasanincidentthatbroughthiscareerasasingularlysuccessfulphysiciantoadisastrousclose。AnordinarynativeChinesedoctor，practicingentirelyamonghisowncountrymen，wasreputedtohavemadeextraordinarycureswithtwoorthreeAmericanpatients。Withnootheradvertisingthanthis，andapparentlynootherinducementofferedtothepublicthanwhattheircuriositysuggested，hewaspresentlybesiegedbyhopefulandeagersufferers。Hundredsofpatientswereturnedawayfromhiscrowdeddoors。Twointerpreterssat，dayandnight，translatingtheillsofailingSanFranciscotothismedicaloracle，anddispensinghisprescriptions——usuallysmallpowders——inexchangeforcurrentcoin。InvaintheregularpractitionerspointedoutthattheChinesepossessednosuperiormedicalknowledge，andthattheirreligion，whichproscribeddissectionandautopsies，naturallylimitedtheirunderstandingofthebodyintowhichtheyputtheirdrugs。FinallytheyprevaileduponaneminentChineseauthoritytogivethemalistoftheremediesgenerallyusedintheChinesepharmacopoeia，andthiswasprivatelycirculated。ForobviousreasonsImaynotrepeatithere。Butitwassummedup——
againaftertheusualCalifornianepigrammaticstyle——bytheremarkthat\"whateverwerethecomparativemeritsofChineseandAmericanpractice，asimpleperusalofthelistwouldprovethattheChinesewerecapableofproducingthemostpowerfulemeticknown。\"Thecrazesubsidedinasingleday；theinterpretersandtheiroraclevanished；theChinesedoctors\'signs，whichhadmultiplied，disappeared，andSanFranciscoawokecuredofitsmadness，atthecostofsomethousanddollars。
MyBohemianwanderingswereconfinedtothelimitsofthecity，fortheverygoodreasonthattherewaslittleelsewheretogo。SanFranciscowasthenboundedononesidebythemonotonouslyrestlesswatersofthebay，andontheotherbyastretchofequallyrestlessandmonotonouslyshiftingsanddunesasfarasthePacificshore。Tworoadspenetratedthiswaste：onetoLoneMountain——thecemetery；theothertotheCliffHouse——happilydescribedas\"aneight-miledrivewithacocktailattheendofit。\"Norwasthehumorentirelyconfinedtothisfelicitousdescription。TheCliffHouseitself，halfrestaurant，halfdrinkingsaloon，frontingtheoceanandtheSealRock，wheredisportingsealswerethechiefobjectofinterest，haditsownpeculiarsymbol。Thedecanters，wine-glasses，andtumblersatthebarwereallengravedinoldEnglishscriptwiththelegalinitials\"L。S。\"（LocusSigilli），——
\"theplaceoftheseal。\"
Ontheotherhand，LoneMountain，adrearypromontorygivingupontheGoldenGateanditsstrikingsunsets，hadlittletosoftenitsweirdsuggestiveness。Asthecommongoalofthesuccessfulandunsuccessful，thecarvedandletteredshaftofthemanwhohadmadeaname，andthestaringblankheadboardofthemanwhohadnone，climbedthesandyslopestogether。Ihaveseenthefuneralsoftherespectablecitizenwhohaddiedpeacefullyinhisbed，andthenotoriousdesperadowhohaddied\"withhisbootson，\"followedbyanequallyimpressivecortegeofsorrowingfriends，andoftentheself-samepriest。Butmoreawfulthanitsbarrenlonelinesswastheutterabsenceofpeacefulnessandrestinthisdismalpromontory。Bysomewickedironyofitssituationandclimateitwasthepersonificationofunrestandchange。Theincessanttradewindscarrieditsloosesandshitherandthither，uncoveringthedecayingcoffinsofearlypioneers，toburythewreathsandflowers，laidonagraveofto-day，undertheirobliteratingwaves。
Notreetoshadethemfromtheglaringskyabovecouldliveinthosewinds，noturfwouldlietheretoresisttheencroachingsandbelow。Thedeadwereharriedandhustledevenintheirgravesbythepersistentsun，theunremittingwind，andtheunceasingsea。
Thedepartingmournersawthecontouroftheverymountainitselfchangewiththeshiftingdunesashepassed，andhislastlookbeyondrestedonthehurrying，eagerwavesforeverhasteningtotheGoldenGate。
IfIwereaskedtosaywhatonethingimpressedmeasthedominantandcharacteristicnoteofSanFrancisco，Ishouldsayitwasthisuntiringpresenceofsunandwindandsea。Theytypified，eveniftheywerenot，asIsometimesfancied，theactualincentivetothefierce，restlesslifeofthecity。IcouldnotthinkofSanFranciscowithoutthetradewinds；Icouldnotimagineitsstrange，incongruous，multigenerousprocessionmarchingtoanyothermusic。
Theywerealwaysthereinmyyouthfulrecollections；theywerethereinmymoreyouthfuldreamsofthepastasthemysteriousvientesgeneralesthatblewthePhilippinegalleonshome。
Forsixmonthstheyblewfromthenorthwest，forsixmonthsfromthesouthwest，withunvaryingpersistency。Theywerethereeverymorning，glitteringintheequallypersistentsunlight，tochasetheSanFranciscanfromhisslumber；theywerethereatmidday，tostirhispulseswiththeirbeat；theywerethereagainatnight，tohurryhimthroughthebleakandflaringgas-litstreetstobed。
Theylefttheirmarkoneverywindwardstreetorfenceorgable，ontheoutlyingsanddunes；theylashedtheslowcoastershome，andhurriedthemtoseaagain；theywhippedthebayintoturbulenceontheirwaytoContraCosta，whoselevelshorelandoakstheyhadtrimmedtowindwardascleanlyandsharplyaswithapruning-
shears。Untiringthemselves，theyallowednolaggards；theydrovetheSanFranciscanfromthewallagainstwhichhewouldhaveleaned，fromthescantshadeinwhichatnoontidehemighthaverested。Theyturnedhissmallestfiresintoconflagrations，andkepthimeveralert，watchful，andeager。Inreturn，theyscavengedhiscityandhelditcleanandwholesome；insummertheybroughthimthesoftsea-fogforafewhourstosoothehisabradedsurfaces；inwintertheybroughttherainsanddashedthewholecoast-linewithflowers，andthestaringskyaboveitwithsoft，unwontedclouds。Theywerealwaysthere——strong，vigilant，relentless，material，unyielding，triumphant。
