THEsceneofthislittlebookisonahighmountain。Thereare，indeed，manyhigher；therearemanyofanobleroutline。
Itisnoplaceofpilgrimageforthesummaryglobe—trotter；
buttoonewholivesuponitssides，MountSaintHelenasoonbecomesacentreofinterest。ItistheMontBlancofonesectionoftheCalifornianCoastRange，noneofitsnearneighboursrisingtoone—halfitsaltitude。Itlooksdownonmuchgreen，intricatecountry。Itfeedsinthespring—timemanysplashingbrooks。Fromitssummityoumusthaveanexcellentlessonofgeography：seeing，tothesouth，SanFranciscoBay，withTamalpaisontheonehandandMonteDiabloontheother；tothewestandthirtymilesaway，theopenocean；eastward，acrossthecorn—landsandthicktuleswampsofSacramentoValley，towheretheCentralPacificrailroadbeginstoclimbthesidesoftheSierras；andnorthward，forwhatIknow，thewhiteheadofShastalookingdownonOregon。Threecounties，NapaCounty，LakeCounty，andSonomaCounty，marchacrossitscliffyshoulders。Itsnakedpeakstandsnearlyfourthousandfivehundredfeetabovethesea；itssidesarefringedwithforest；andthesoil，whereitisbare，glowswarmwithcinnabar。
Lifeinitsshadowgoesrusticallyforward。Bucks，andbears，andrattle—snakes，andformerminingoperations，arethestapleofmen’stalk。Agriculturehasonlybeguntomountabovethevalley。Andthoughinafewyearsfromnowthewholedistrictmaybesmilingwithfarms，passingtrainsshakingthemountaintotheheart，many—windowedhotelslightingupthenightlikefactories，andaprosperouscityoccupyingthesiteofsleepyCalistoga；yetinthemeantime，aroundthefootofthatmountainthesilenceofnaturereignsinagreatmeasureunbroken，andthepeopleofhillandvalleygosaunteringabouttheirbusinessasinthedaysbeforetheflood。
ToreachMountSaintHelenafromSanFrancisco，thetravellerhastwicetocrossthebay：oncebythebusyOaklandFerry，andagain，afteranhourorsooftherailway，fromVallejojunctiontoVallejo。ThencehetakesrailoncemoretomountthelonggreenstrathofNapaValley。
Inallthecontractionsandexpansionsofthatinlandsea，theBayofSanFrancisco，therecanbefewdrearierscenesthantheVallejoFerry。Baldshoresandalow，baldisletinclosethesea；throughthenarrowsthetidebubbles，muddylikeariver。Whenwemadethepassage（bound，althoughyetweknewitnot，forSilverado）thesteamerjumped，andtheblackbuoysweredancinginthejabble；theoceanbreezeblewkillingchill；and，althoughtheupperskywasstillunfleckedwithvapour，theseafogswerepouringinfromseaward，overthehilltopsofMarincounty，inonegreat，shapeless，silvercloud。
SouthVallejoistypicalofmanyCaliforniantowns。Itwasablunder；thesitehasproveduntenable；and，althoughitisstillsuchayoungplacebythescaleofEurope，ithasalreadybeguntobedesertedforitsneighbourandnamesake，NorthVallejo。Alongpier，anumberofdrinkingsaloons，ahotelofagreatsize，marshypoolswherethefrogskeepuptheircroaking，andevenathighnoontheentireabsenceofanyhumanfaceorvoice—thesearethemarksofSouthVallejo。Yettherewasatallbuildingbesidethepier，labelledtheSTARFLOURMILLS；andsea—going，full—riggedshipslayclosealongshore，waitingfortheircargo。SoonthesewouldbeplungingroundtheHorn，soontheflourfromtheSTARFLOURMILLSwouldbelandedonthewharvesofLiverpool。Forthat，too，isoneofEngland’soutposts；
thither，tothisgauntmill，acrosstheAtlanticandPacificdeepsandroundabouttheicyHorn，thiscrowdofgreat，three—masted，deep—seashipscome，bringingnothing，andreturnwithbread。
TheFrisbyHouse，forthatwasthenameofthehotel，wasaplaceoffallenfortunes，likethetown。Itwasnowgivenuptolabourers，andpartlyruinous。AtdinnertherewastheordinarydisplayofwhatiscalledinthewestaTWO—BIT
HOUSE：thetableclothcheckedredandwhite，theplagueofflies，thewirehencoopsoverthedishes，thegreatvarietyandinvariablevilenessofthefoodandtheroughcoatlessmendevotingitinsilence。Inourbedroom，thestovewouldnotburn，thoughitwouldsmoke；andwhileonewindowwouldnotopen，theotherwouldnotshut。Therewasaviewonabitofemptyroad，afewdarkhouses，adonkeywanderingwithitsshadowonaslope，andablinkofsea，withatallshiplyinganchoredinthemoonlight。Allaboutthatdrearyinnfrogssangtheirungainlychorus。
Earlythenextmorningwemountedthehillalongawoodenfootway，bridgingonemarishspotafteranother。Hereandthere，asweascended，wepassedahouseemboweredinwhiteroses。Moreofthebaybecameapparent，andsoonthebluepeakofTamalpaisroseabovethegreenleveloftheislandopposite。IttolduswewerestillbutalittlewayfromthecityoftheGoldenGates，already，atthathour，beginningtoawakeamongthesand—hills。Itcalledtousoverthewatersaswiththevoiceofabird。Itsstatelyhead，blueasasapphireonthepalerazureofthesky，spoketousofwideroutlooksandthebrightPacific。ForTamalpaisstandssentry，likealighthouse，overtheGoldenGates，betweenthebayandtheopenocean，andlooksdownindifferentlyonboth。
EvenaswesawandhaileditfromVallejo，seamen，faroutatsea，werescanningitwithshadedeyes；and，asiftoanswertothethought，oneofthegreatshipsbelowbegansilentlytoclotheherselfwithwhitesails，homewardboundforEngland。
ForsomewaybeyondVallejotherailwayledusthroughbaldgreenpastures。OnthewesttheroughhighlandsofMarinshutofftheocean；inthemidst，inlong，straggling，gleamingarms，thebaydiedoutamongthegrass；therewerefewtreesandfewenclosures；thesunshonewideoveropenuplands，thedisplumedhillsstoodclearagainstthesky。
Butby—and—bythesehillsbegantodrawneareroneitherhand，andfirstthicketandthenwoodbegantoclothetheirsides；andsoonwewereawayfromallsignsofthesea’sneighbourhood，mountinganinland，irrigatedvalley。Agreatvarietyofoaksstood，nowseverally，nowinabecominggrove，amongthefieldsandvineyards。Thetownswerecompact，inaboutequalproportions，ofbright，newwoodenhousesandgreatandgrowingforesttrees；andthechapelbellontheenginesoundedmostfestallythatsunnySunday，aswedrewupatonegreentownafteranother，withthetownsfolktroopingintheirSunday’sbesttoseethestrangers，withthesunsparklingonthecleanhouses，andgreatdomesoffoliagehummingoverheadinthebreeze。
ThispleasantNapaValleyis，atitsnorthend，blockadedbyourmountain。There，atCalistoga，therailroadceases，andthetravellerwhointendsfaringfarther，totheGeysersortothespringsinLakeCounty，mustcrossthespursofthemountainbystage。Thus，MountSaintHelenaisnotonlyasummit，butafrontier；and，uptothetimeofwriting，ithasstayedtheprogressoftheironhorse。
PARTI—INTHEVALLEY
CHAPTERI—CALISTOGA
ITisdifficultforaEuropeantoimagineCalistoga，thewholeplaceissonew，andofsuchanaccidentalpattern；theveryname，Ihear，wasinventedatasupper—partybythemanwhofoundthesprings。
Therailroadandthehighwaycomeupthevalleyaboutparalleltooneanother。ThestreetofCalistogajoinstheperpendiculartoboth—awidestreet，withbright，clean，lowhouses，hereandthereaverandahoverthesidewalk，hereandthereahorse—post，hereandthereloungingtownsfolk。
Otherstreetsaremarkedout，andmostlikelynamed；forthesetownsintheNewWorldbeginwithafirmresolvetogrowlarger，WashingtonandBroadway，andthenFirstandSecond，andsoforth，beingboldlyplottedoutassoonasthecommunityindulgesinaplan。But，inthemeanwhile，allthelifeandmostofthehousesofCalistogaareconcentrateduponthatstreetbetweentherailwaystationandtheroad。I
neverhearditcalledbyanyname，butIwillhazardaguessthatitiseitherWashingtonorBroadway。Herearetheblacksmith’s，thechemist’s，thegeneralmerchant’s，andKongSamKee，theChineselaundryman’s；here，probably，istheofficeofthelocalpaper（fortheplacehasapaper—theyallhavepapers）；andherecertainlyisoneofthehotels，Cheeseborough’s，whencethedaringFoss，amandeartolegend，startshishorsesfortheGeysers。
Itmustberememberedthatwearehereinalandofstage—
driversandhighwaymen：aland，inthatsense，likeEnglandahundredyearsago。Thehighwayrobber—road—agent，heisquaintlycalled—isstillbusyintheseparts。ThefameofVasquezisstillyoung。Onlyafewyearsgo，theLakeportstagewasrobbedamileortwofromCalistoga。In1879，thedentistofMendocinoCity，fiftymilesawayuponthecoast，suddenlythrewoffthegarmentsofhistrade，likeGrindoff，inTHEMILLERANDHISMEN，andflamedforthinhisseconddressasacaptainofbanditti。Agreatrobberywasfollowedbyalongchase，achaseofdaysifnotofweeks，amongtheintricatehill—country；andthechasewasfollowedbymuchdesultoryfighting，inwhichseveral—andthedentist，I
believe，amongstthenumber—bitthedust。Thegrasswasspringingforthefirsttime，nourishedupontheirblood，whenIarrivedinCalistoga。Iamremindedofanotherhighwaymanofthatsameyear。\"Hehadbeenunwell，\"soranhishumorousdefence，\"andthedoctortoldhimtotakesomething，sohetooktheexpress—box。\"
Thecultusofthestage—coachmanalwaysflourisheshighestwheretherearethievesontheroad，andwheretheguardtravelsarmed，andthestageisnotonlyalinkbetweencountryandcity，andthevehicleofnews，buthasafaintwarfaringaroma，likeamanwhoshouldbebrothertoasoldier。Californiaboastsherfamousstage—drivers，andamongthefamousFossisnotforgotten。Alongtheunfenced，abominablemountainroads，helauncheshisteamwithsmallregardtohumanlifeorthedoctrineofprobabilities。
Flinchingtravellers，whobeholdthemselvescoastingeternityateverycorner，lookwithnaturaladmirationattheirdriver’shuge，impassive，fleshycountenance。HehastheveryfaceforthedriverinSamWeller’sanecdote，whoupsettheelectionpartyattherequiredpoint。Wonderfultalesarecurrentofhisreadinessandskill。Oneinparticular，ofhowoneofhishorsesfellataticklishpassageoftheroad，andhowFossletslipthereins，and，drivingoverthefallenanimal，arrivedatthenextstagewithonlythree。
ThisIrelateasIheardit，withoutguarantee。
IonlysawFossonce，though，strangeasitmaysound，Ihavetwicetalkedwithhim。HelivesoutofCalistoga，ataranchecalledFossville。Oneevening，afterhewaslonggonehome，IdroppedintoCheeseborough’s，andwasaskedifI
shouldliketospeakwithMr。Foss。Supposingthattheinterviewwasimpossible，andthatIwasmerelycalledupontosubscribethegeneralsentiment，Iboldlyanswered\"Yes。\"
Nextmoment，Ihadoneinstrumentatmyear，anotheratmymouthandfoundmyself，withnothingintheworldtosay，conversingwithamanseveralmilesoffamongdesolatehills。
Fossrapidlyandsomewhatplaintivelybroughttheconversationtoanend；andhereturnedtohisnight’sgrogatFossville，whileIstrolledforthagainonCalistogahighstreet。Butitwasanoddthingthathere，onwhatweareaccustomedtoconsidertheveryskirtsofcivilization，I
shouldhaveusedthetelephoneforthefirsttimeinmycivilizedcareer。Soitgoesintheseyoungcountries；
telephones，andtelegraphs，andnewspapers，andadvertisementsrunningfaraheadamongtheIndiansandthegrizzlybears。
Alone，ontheothersideoftherailway，standstheSpringsHotel，withitsattendantcottages。Thefloorofthevalleyisextremelyleveltotheveryrootsofthehills；onlyhereandthereahillock，crownedwithpines，riseslikethebarrowofsomechieftainfamedinwar；andrightagainstoneofthesehillocksistheSpringsHotel—isorwas；forsinceIwastheretheplacehasbeendestroyedbyfire，andhasrisenagainfromitsashes。Alawnrunsaboutthehouse，andthelawnisinitsturnsurroundedbyasystemoflittlefive—roomedcottages，eachwithaverandahandaweedypalmbeforethedoor。Someofthecottagesarelettoresidents，andthesearewreathedinflowers。TherestareoccupiedbyordinaryvisitorstotheHotel；andaverypleasantwaythisis，bywhichyouhavealittlecountrycottageofyourown，withoutdomesticburthens，andbythedayorweek。
ThewholeneighbourhoodofMountSaintHelenaisfullofsulphurandofboilingsprings。TheGeysersarefamous；theywerethegreathealthresortoftheIndiansbeforethecomingofthewhites。LakeCountyisdottedwithspas；HotSpringsandWhiteSulphurSpringsarethenamesoftwostationsontheNapaValleyrailroad；andCalistogaitselfseemstoreposeonamerefilmaboveaboiling，subterraneanlake。Atoneendofthehotelenclosurearethespringsfromwhichittakesitsname，hotenoughtoscaldachildseriouslywhileI
wasthere。Attheotherend，thetenantofacottagesankawell，andtherealsothewatercameupboiling。Itkeepsthisendofthevalleyaswarmasatoast。Ihavegoneacrosstothehotelalittleafterfiveinthemorning，whenaseafogfromthePacificwashangingthickandgray，anddarkanddirtyoverhead，andfoundthethermometerhadbeenupbeforeme，andhadalreadyclimbedamongthenineties；andinthestressofthedayitwassometimestoohottomoveabout。
Butinspiteofthisheatfromaboveandbelow，doingoneonbothsides，Calistogawasapleasantplacetodwellin；
beautifullygreen，foritwasthenthatfavouredmomentintheCalifornianyear，whentherainsareoverandthedustysummerhasnotyetsetin；oftenvisitedbyfreshairs，nowfromthemountain，nowacrossSonomafromthesea；veryquiet，veryidle，verysilentbutforthebreezesandthecattlebellsafield。Andtherewassomethingsatisfactoryinthesightofthatgreatmountainthatenclosedustothenorth：whetheritstood，robedinsunshine，quakingtoitstopmostpinnaclewiththeheatandbrightnessoftheday；orwhetheritsetitselftoweavingvapours，wispafterwispgrowing，trembling，fleeting，andfadingintheblue。
Thetangled，woody，andalmosttracklessfoot—hillsthatenclosethevalley，shuttingitofffromSonomaonthewest，andfromYoloontheeast—roughastheywereinoutline，dugoutbywinterstreams，crownedbycliffybluffsandnoddingpinetrees—woredwarfedintosatellitesbythebulkandbearingofMountSaintHelena。Sheover—toweredthembytwo—thirdsofherownstature。Sheexcelledthembytheboldnessofherprofile。Hergreatbaldsummit，clearoftreesandpasture，acairnofquartzandcinnabar，rejectedkinshipwiththedarkandshaggywildernessoflesserhill—
tops。
CHAPTERII—THEPETRIFIEDFOREST
WEdroveofffromtheSpringsHotelaboutthreeintheafternoon。Thesunwarmedmetotheheart。Abroad，coolwindstreamedpauselesslydownthevalley，ladenwithperfume。UpatthetopstoodMountSaintHelena，abulkofmountain，bareatop，withtree—fringedspurs，andradiatingwarmth。Oncewesawitframedinagroveoftallandexquisitelygracefulwhiteoaks，inlineandcolourafinishedcomposition。Wepassedacowstretchedbytheroadside，herbellslowlybeatingtimetothemovementofherruminatingjaws，herbigredfacecrawledoverbyhalfadozenflies，amonumentofcontent。
Alittlefarther，andwestrucktotheleftupamountainroad，andfortwohoursthreadedonevalleyafteranother，green，tangled，fullofnobletimber，givinguseverynowandagainasightofMountSaintHelenaandthebluehillydistance，andcrossedbymanystreams，throughwhichwesplashedtothecarriage—step。Totherightortheleft，therewasscarceanytraceofmanbuttheroadwefollowed；I
thinkwepassedbutoneranchero’shouseinthewholedistance，andthatwasclosedandsmokeless。Butwehadthesocietyofthesebrightstreams—dazzlinglyclear，asistheirwont，splashingfromthewheelsindiamonds，andstrikingalivelycoolnessthroughthesunshine。Andwhatwiththeinnumerablevarietyofgreens，themassesoffoliagetossinginthebreeze，theglimpsesofdistance，thedescentsintoseeminglyimpenetrablethickets，thecontinualdodgingoftheroadwhichmadehastetoplungeagainintothecovert，wehadafinesenseofwoods，andspring—time，andtheopenair。
OurdrivergavemealecturebythewayonCaliforniantrees—athingIwasmuchinneedof，havingfallenamongpainterswhoknowthenameofnothing，andMexicanswhoknowthenameofnothinginEnglish。Hetaughtmethemadrona，themanzanita，thebuck—eye，themaple；heshowedmethecrestedmountainquail；heshowedmewheresomeyoungredwoodswerealreadyspiringheavenwardsfromtheruinsoftheold；forinthisdistrictallhadalreadyperished：redwoodsandredskins，thetwonoblestindigenouslivingthings，alikecondemned。
Atlength，inalonelydell，wecameonahugewoodengatewithasignuponitlikeaninn。\"ThePetrifiedForest。
Proprietor：C。Evans，\"ranthelegend。Within，onaknollofsward，wasthehouseoftheproprietor，andanothersmallerhousehardbytoserveasamuseum，wherephotographsandpetrifactionswereretailed。Itwasapurelittleisleoftouristryamongthesesolitaryhills。
Theproprietorwasabraveoldwhite—facedSwede。Hehadwanderedthisway，Heavenknowshow，andtakenuphisacres—
Iforgethowmanyyearsago—allalone，bentdoublewithsciatica，andwithsixbitsinhispocketandanaxeuponhisshoulder。Long，uselessyearsofseafaringhadthusdischargedhimattheend，pennilessandsick。Withoutdoubthehadtriedhisluckatthediggings，andgotnogoodfromthat；withoutdoubthehadlovedthebottle，andlivedthelifeofJackashore。Butattheendoftheseadventures，herehecame；and，theplacehittinghisfancy，downhesattomakeanewlifeofit，farfromcrimpsandthesaltsea。
Andtheverysightofhisranchehaddonehimgood。Itwas\"thehandsomestspotintheCalifornymountains。\"\"Isn’tithandsome，now？\"hesaid。Everypennyhemakesgoesintothatranchetomakeithandsomer。Thentheclimate，withthesea—
breezeeveryafternooninthehottestsummerweather，hadgraduallycuredthesciatica；andhissisterandniecewerenowdomesticatedwithhimforcompany—or，rather，theniececameonlyonceinthetwodays，teachingmusicthemeanwhileinthevalley。Andthen，foralastpieceofluck，\"thehandsomestspotintheCalifornymountains\"hadproducedapetrifiedforest，whichMr。Evansnowshowsatthemodestfigureofhalfadollarahead，ortwo—thirdsofhiscapitalwhenhefirstcametherewithanaxeandasciatica。
Thistardyfavouriteoffortune—hobblingalittle，Ithink，asifinmemoryofthesciatica，butwithnotatracethatI
canrememberofthesea—thoroughlyruralizedfromheadtofoot，proceededtoescortusupthehillbehindhishouse。
\"Whofirstfoundtheforest？\"askedmywife。
\"Thefirst？Iwasthatman，\"saidhe。\"Iwascleaningupthepastureformybeasts，whenIfoundTHIS\"—kickingagreatredwoodsevenfeetindiameter，thatlaythereonitsside，hollowheart，clinginglumpsofbark，allchangedintograystone，withveinsofquartzbetweenwhathadbeenthelayersofthewood。
\"Wereyousurprised？\"
\"Surprised？No!WhatwouldIbesurprisedabout？WhatdidIknowaboutpetrifactions—followingthesea？
Petrifaction!Therewasnosuchwordinmylanguage!Iknewaboutputrifaction，though!Ithoughtitwasastone；sowouldyou，ifyouwascleaninguppasture。\"
Andnowhehadatheoryofhisown，whichIdidnotquitegrasp，exceptthatthetreeshadnot\"grewed\"there。Buthementioned，withevidentpride，thathedifferedfromallthescientificpeoplewhohadvisitedthespot；andheflungaboutsuchwordsas\"tufa\"and\"scilica\"withcarelessfreedom。
WhenImentionedIwasfromScotland，\"Myoldcountry，\"hesaid；\"myoldcountry\"—withasmilinglookandatoneofrealaffectioninhisvoice。Iwasmightilysurprised，forhewasobviouslyScandinavian，andbeggedhimtoexplain。ItseemedhehadlearnedhisEnglishanddonenearlyallhissailinginScotchships。\"OutofGlasgow，\"saidhe，\"orGreenock；butthat’sallthesame—theyallhailfromGlasgow。\"AndhewassopleasedwithmeforbeingaScotsman，andhisadoptedcompatriot，thathemademeapresentofaverybeautifulpieceofpetrifaction—Ibelievethemostbeautifulandportablehehad。
Herewasaman，atleast，whowasaSwede，aScot，andanAmerican，acknowledgingsomekindallegiancetothreelands。
Mr。Wallace’sScoto—Circassianwillnotfailtocomebeforethereader。IhavemyselfmetandspokenwithaFifeshireGerman，whosecombinationofabominableaccentsstruckmedumb。But，indeed，Ithinkweallbelongtomanycountries。
Andperhapsthishabitofmuchtravel，andtheengenderingofscatteredfriendships，maypreparetheeuthanasiaofancientnations。
Andtheforestitself？Well，onatangled，brieryhillside—
forthepasturewouldbearalittlefurthercleaningup，tomyeyes—thereliescatteredthicklyvariouslengthsofpetrifiedtrunk，suchastheonealreadymentioned。Itisverycurious，ofcourse，andancientenough，ifthatwereall。Doubtless，theheartofthegeologistbeatsquickeratthesight；but，formypart，Iwasmightilyunmoved。Sight—
seeingistheartofdisappointment。
\"There’snothingunderheavensoblue，That’sfairlyworththetravellingto。\"
But，fortunately，Heavenrewardsuswithmanyagreeableprospectsandadventuresbytheway；andsometimes，whenwegoouttoseeapetrifiedforest，preparesafarmoredelightfulcuriosity，intheformofMr。Evans，whommayallprosperityattendthroughoutalongandgreenoldage。
CHAPTERIII—NAPAWINE
IWASinterestedinCalifornianwine。Indeed，Iaminterestedinallwines，andhavebeenallmylife，fromtheraisinwinethataschoolfellowkeptsecretedinhisplay—boxuptomylastdiscovery，thosenotableValtellines，thatonceshoneupontheboardofCaesar。
Someofus，kindoldPagans，watchwithdreadtheshadowsfallingontheage：howtheunconquerableworminvadesthesunnyterracesofFrance，andBordeauxisnomore，andtheRhoneamereArabiaPetraea。ChateauNeufisdead，andI
havenevertastedit；Hermitage—ahermitageindeedfromalllife’ssorrows—liesexpiringbytheriver。Andintheplaceoftheseimperialelixirs，beautifultoeverysense，gem—hued，flower—scented，dream—compellers：—beholduponthequaysatCettethechemicalsarrayed；beholdtheanalystatMarseilles，raisinghandsinobsecration，attestinggodLyoeus，andthevatsstavedin，andthedishonestwinespouredforthamongthesea。ItisnotPanonly；Bacchus，too，isdead。
Ifwineistowithdrawitsmostpoeticcountenance，thesunofthewhitedinner—cloth，adeitytobeinvokedbytwoorthree，allfervent，hushingtheirtalk，degustingtenderly，andstoringreminiscences—forabottleofgoodwine，likeagoodact，shineseverintheretrospect—ifwineistodesertus，gothyways，oldJack!Nowwebegintohavecompunctions，andlookbackatthebravebottlessquanderedupondinner—parties，wheretheguestsdrankgrossly，discussingpoliticsthewhile，andeventheschoolboy\"tookhiswhack，\"likeliquoricewater。Andatthesametime，welooktimidlyforward，withasparkofhope，towherethenewlands，alreadywearyofproducinggold，begintogreenwithvineyards。AnicepointinhumanhistoryfallstobedecidedbyCalifornianandAustralianwines。
WineinCaliforniaisstillintheexperimentalstage；andwhenyoutasteavintage，graveeconomicalquestionsareinvolved。Thebeginningofvine—plantingislikethebeginningofminingforthepreciousmetals：thewine—groweralso\"Prospects。\"Onecorneroflandafteranotheristriedwithonekindofgrapeafteranother。Thisisafailure；
thatisbetter；athirdbest。So，bitbybit，theygropeaboutfortheirClosVougeotandLafite。Thoselodesandpocketsofearth，morepreciousthanthepreciousores，thatyieldinimitablefragranceandsoftfire；thosevirtuousBonanzas，wherethesoilhassublimatedundersunandstarstosomethingfiner，andthewineisbottledpoetry：thesestilllieundiscovered；chaparralconceals，thicketembowersthem；theminerchipstherockandwandersfarther，andthegrizzlymusesundisturbed。Buttheretheybidetheirhour，awaitingtheirColumbus；andnaturenursesandpreparesthem。
ThesmackofCalifornianearthshalllingeronthepalateofyourgrandson。
Meanwhilethewineismerelyagoodwine；thebestthatI
havetastedbetterthanaBeaujolais，andnotunlike。Butthetradeispoor；itlivesfromhandtomouth，puttingitsallintoexperiments，andforcedtosellitsvintages。Tofindoneproperlymatured，andbearingitsownname，istobefortune’sfavourite。
Bearingitsownname，Isay，anddwellupontheinnuendo。
\"YouwanttoknowwhyCaliforniawineisnotdrunkintheStates？\"aSanFranciscowinemerchantsaidtome，afterhehadshownmethroughhispremises。\"Well，here’sthereason。\"
Andopeningalargecupboard，fittedwithmanylittledrawers，heproceededtoshowermealloverwithagreatvarietyofgorgeouslytintedlabels，blue，red，oryellow，stampedwithcrownorcoronet，andhailingfromsuchaprofusionofCLOSandCHATEAUX，thatasingledepartmentcouldscarcehavefurnishedforththenames。Butitwasstrangethatalllookedunfamiliar。
\"ChateauX—？\"saidI。\"Ineverheardofthat。\"
\"Idaresaynot，\"saidhe。\"IhadbeenreadingoneofX—’snovels。\"
TheywereallcastlesinSpain!ButthatsureenoughisthereasonwhyCaliforniawineisnotdrunkintheStates。
Napavalleyhasbeenlongaseatofthewine—growingindustry。Itdidnotherebegin，asitdoestoooften，inthelowvalleylandsalongtheriver，buttookatoncetotheroughfoot—hills，wherealoneitcanexpecttoprosper。A
baskinginclination，andstones，tobeareservoiroftheday’sheat，seemnecessarytothesoilforwine；thegrossnessoftheearthmustbeevaporated，itsmarrowdailymeltedandrefinedforages；untilatlengththeseclodsthatbreakbelowourfooting，andtotheeyeappearbutcommonearth，aretrulyandtotheperceivingmind，amasterpieceofnature。ThedustofRichebourg，whichthewindcarriesaway，whatanapotheosisofthedust!Notmanhimselfcanseemastrangerchildofthatbrown，friablepowder，thanthebloodandsuninthatoldflaskbehindthefaggots。
ACalifornianvineyard，oneofman’soutpostsinthewilderness，hasfeaturesofitsown。ThereisnothingheretoremindyouoftheRhineorRhone，ofthelowCOTED’OR，ortheinfamousandscabbydesertsofChampagne；butallisgreen，solitary，covert。Wevisitedtwoofthem，Mr。
Schram’sandMr。M’Eckron’s，sharingthesameglen。
SomewaydownthevalleybelowCalistoga，weturnedsharplytothesouthandplungedintothethickofthewood。Arudetrailrapidlymounting；alittlestreamtinklingbyontheonehand，bigenoughperhapsaftertherains，butalreadyyieldingupitslife；overheadandonallsidesabowerofgreenandtangledthicket，stillfragrantandstillflower—
bespangledbytheearlyseason，wherethimble—berryplayedthepartofourEnglishhawthorn，andthebuck—eyeswereputtingforththeirtwistedhornsofblossom：throughallthis，westruggledtoughlyupwards，cantedtoandfrobytheroughnessofthetrail，andcontinuallyswitchedacrossthefacebyspraysofleaforblossom。Thelastisnogreatinconvenienceathome；buthereinCaliforniaitisamatterofsomemoment。Forinallwoodsandbyeverywaysidethereprospersanabominableshruborweed，calledpoison—oak，whoseveryneighbourhoodisvenomoustosome，andwhoseactualtouchisavoidedbythemostimpervious。
Thetwohouses，withtheirvineyards，stoodeachinagreennicheofitsowninthissteepandnarrowforestdell。
Thoughtheyweresonear，therewasalreadyagooddifferenceinlevel；andMr。M’Eckron’sheadmustbealongwayunderthefeetofMr。Schram。Nomorehadbeenclearedthanwasnecessaryforcultivation；closearoundeachoasisranthetangledwood；theglenenfoldsthem；theretheyliebaskinginsunandsilence，concealedfromallbutthecloudsandthemountainbirds。
Mr。M’Eckron’sisabachelorestablishment；alittlebitofawoodenhouse，asmallcellarhardbyinthehillside，andapatchofvinesplantedandtendedsingle—handedbyhimself。
Hehadbutrecentlybegan；hisvineswereyoung，hisbusinessyoungalso；butIthoughthehadthelookofthemanwhosucceeds。HehailedfromGreenock：herememberedhisfatherputtinghiminsideMonsMeg，andthattouchedmehome；andweexchangedawordortwoofScotch，whichpleasedmemorethanyouwouldfancy。
Mr。Schram’s，ontheotherhand，istheoldestvineyardinthevalley，eighteenyearsold，Ithink；yethebeganapennilessbarber，andevenafterhehadbrokengroundupherewithhisblackmalvoisies，continuedforlongtotrampthevalleywithhisrazor。Now，hisplaceisthepictureofprosperity：stuffedbirdsintheverandah，cellarsfardugintothehillside，andrestingonpillarslikeabandit’scave：—alltrimness，varnish，flowers，andsunshine，amongthetangledwildwood。Stout，smilingMrs。Schram，whohasbeentoEuropeandapparentlyallabouttheStatesforpleasure，entertainedFannyintheverandah，whileIwastastingwinesinthecellar。ToMr。Schramthiswasasolemnoffice；hisseriousgustowarmedmyheart；prosperityhadnotyetwhollybanishedacertainneophiteandgirlishtrepidation，andhefollowedeverysipandreadmyfacewithproudanxiety。Itastedall。ItastedeveryvarietyandshadeofSchramberger，redandwhiteSchramberger，BurgundySchramberger，SchrambergerHock，SchrambergerGoldenChasselas，thelatterwithanotablebouquet，andIfeartothinkhowmanymore。MuchofitgoestoLondon—most，I
think；andMr。SchramhasagreatnotionoftheEnglishtaste。
Inthiswildspot，Ididnotfeelthesacrednessofancientcultivation。Itwasstillraw，itwasnoMarathon，andnoJohannisberg；yetthestirringsunlight，andthegrowingvines，andthevatsandbottlesinthecavern，madeapleasantmusicforthemind。Here，also，earth’screamwasbeingskimmedandgarnered；andtheLondoncustomerscantaste，suchasitis，thetangoftheearthinthisgreenvalley。Solocal，soquintessentialisawine，thatitseemstheverybirdsintheverandahmightcommunicateaflavour，andthatromanticcellarinfluencethebottlenexttobeuncorkedinPimlico，andthesmileofjollyMr。Schrammightmantleintheglass。
Butthesearebutexperiments。Allthingsinthisnewlandaremovingfartheron：thewine—vatsandtheminer’sblastingtoolsbutpicketforanight，likeBedouinpavillions；andto—morrow，tofreshwoods!Thisstirofchangeandtheseperpetualechoesofthemovingfootfall，haunttheland。Menmoveeternally，stillchasingFortune；
and，fortunefound，stillwander。AswedrovebacktoCalistoga，theroadlayemptyofmerepassengers，butitsgreensidewasdottedwiththecampsoftravellingfamilies：
onecumberedwithagreatwaggonfulofhouseholdstuff，settlersgoingtooccupyaranchetheyhadtakenupinMendocino，orperhapsTehamaCounty；another，apartyindustcoats，menandwomen，whomwefoundcampedinagroveontheroadside，allonpleasurebent，withaChinamantocookforthem，andwhowavedtheirhandstousaswedroveby。
CHAPTERIV—THESCOTABROAD
AFEWpagesback，Iwrotethatamanbelonged，inthesedays，toavarietyofcountries；buttheoldlandisstillthetruelove，theothersarebutpleasantinfidelities。Scotlandisindefinable；ithasnounityexceptuponthemap。Twolanguages，manydialects，innumerableformsofpiety，andcountlesslocalpatriotismsandprejudices，partusamongourselvesmorewidelythantheextremeeastandwestofthatgreatcontinentofAmerica。WhenIamathome，IfeelamanfromGlasgowtobesomethinglikearival，amanfromBarratobemorethanhalfaforeigner。Yetletusmeetinsomefarcountry，and，whetherwehailfromthebraesofManororthebraesofMar，someready—madeaffectionjoinsusontheinstant。Itisnotrace。Lookatus。OneisNorse，oneCeltic，andanotherSaxon。Itisnotcommunityoftongue。
Wehaveitnotamongourselves；andwehaveitalmosttoperfection，withEnglish，orIrish，orAmerican。Itisnotieoffaith，forwedetesteachother’serrors。Andyetsomewhere，deepdownintheheartofeachoneofus，somethingyearnsfortheoldland，andtheoldkindlypeople。
Ofallmysteriesofthehumanheart，thisisperhapsthemostinscrutable。Thereisnospeciallovelinessinthatgraycountry，withitsrainy，sea—beatarchipelago；itsfieldsofdarkmountains；itsunsightlyplaces，blackwithcoal；itstreeless，sour，unfriendlylookingcorn—lands；itsquaint，gray，castledcity，wherethebellsclashofaSunday，andthewindsqualls，andthesaltshowersflyandbeat。IdonotevenknowifIdesiretolivethere；butletmehear，insomefarland，akindredvoicesingout，\"Oh，whyleftImyhame？\"anditseemsatonceasifnobeautyunderthekindheavens，andnosocietyofthewiseandgood，canrepaymeformyabsencefrommycountry。AndthoughIthinkIwouldratherdieelsewhere，yetinmyheartofheartsIlongtobeburiedamonggoodScotsclods。Iwillsayitfairly，itgrowsonmewitheveryyear：therearenostarssolovelyasEdinburghstreet—lamps。WhenIforgetthee，auldReekie，maymyrighthandforgetitscunning!
ThehappiestlotonearthistobebornaScotchman。Youmustpayforitinmanyways，asforallotheradvantagesonearth。Youhavetolearntheparaphrasesandtheshortercatechism；yougenerallytaketodrink；youryouth，asfarasIcanfindout，isatimeoflouderwaragainstsociety，ofmoreoutcryandtearsandturmoil，thanifyouhadbeenborn，forinstance，inEngland。Butsomehowlifeiswarmerandcloser；thehearthburnsmoreredly；thelightsofhomeshinesofterontherainystreet；theverynames，endearedinverseandmusic，clingnearerroundourhearts。AnEnglishmanmaymeetanEnglishmanto—morrow，uponChimborazo，andneitherofthemcare；butwhentheScotchwine—growertoldmeofMonsMeg，itwaslikemagic。
\"FromthedimshielingonthemistyislandMountainsdivideus，andaworldofseas；
Yetstillourheartsaretrue，ourheartsareHighland，Andwe，indreams，beholdtheHebrides。\"
And，HighlandandLowland，allourheartsareScotch。
OnlyafewdaysafterIhadseenM’Eckron，amessagereachedmeinmycottage。ItwasaScotchmanwhohadcomedownalongwayfromthehillstomarket。HehadheardtherewasacountrymaninCalistoga，andcameroundtothehoteltoseehim。Wesaidafewwordstoeachother；wehadnotmuchtosay—shouldneverhaveseeneachotherhadwestayedathome，separatedalikeinspaceandinsociety；andthenweshookhands，andhewenthiswayagaintohisrancheamongthehills，andthatwasall。
AnotherScotchmantherewas，aresident，whoforthemoreloveofthecommoncountry，douce，serious，religiousman，drovemeallaboutthevalley，andtookasmuchinterestinmeasifIhadbeenhisson：more，perhaps；forthesonhasfaultstookeenlyfelt，whiletheabstractcountrymanisperfect—likeawhiffofpeats。
Andtherewasyetanother。UponhimIcamesuddenly，ashewascalmlyenteringmycottage，hismindquiteevidentlybentonplunder：amanofaboutfifty，filthy，ragged，roguish，withachimney—pothatandatailcoat，andapursingofhismouththatmighthavebeenenviedbyanelderofthekirk。
HehadjustsuchafaceasIhaveseenadozentimesbehindtheplate。
\"Hullo，sir!\"Icried。\"Whereareyougoing？\"
Heturnedroundwithoutaquiver。
\"You’reaScotchman，sir？\"hesaidgravely。\"SoamI；IcomefromAberdeen。Thisismycard，\"presentingmewithapieceofpasteboardwhichhehadrakedoutofsomegutterintheperiodoftherains。\"Iwasjustexaminingthispalm，\"hecontinued，indicatingthemisbegottenplantbeforeourdoor，\"whichisthelargestspAcimenIhaveyetobservedinCalifoarnia。\"
Therewerefourorfivelargerwithinsight。Butwherewastheuseofargument？Heproducedatape—line，mademehelphimtomeasurethetreeattheleveloftheground，andenteredthefiguresinalargeandfilthypocket—book，allwiththegravityofSolomon。Hethenthankedmeprofusely，remarkingthatsuchlittleserviceswereduebetweencountrymen；shookhandswithme，\"foraddlangsyne，\"ashesaid；andtookhimselfsolemnlyaway，radiatingdirtandhumbugashewent。
Amonthortwoafterthisencounterofmine，therecameaScottoSacramento—perhapsfromAberdeen。Anyway，thereneverwasanyonemoreScotchinthiswideworld。Hecouldsinganddance，anddrink，Ipresume；andheplayedthepipeswithvigourandsuccess。AlltheScotchinSacramentobecameinfatuatedwithhim，andspenttheirsparetimeandmoney，drivinghimaboutinanopencab，betweendrinks，whileheblewhimselfscarletatthepipes。Thisisaverysadstory。
Afterhehadborrowedmoneyfromeveryone，heandhispipessuddenlydisappearedfromSacramento，andwhenIlastheard，thepolicewerelookingforhim。
Icannotsayhowthisstoryamusedme，whenIfeltmyselfsothoroughlyripeonbothsidestobedupedinthesameway。
Itisatleastacuriousthing，toconclude，thattheraceswhichwanderwidest，JewsandScotch，shouldbethemostclannishintheworld。Butperhapsthesetwoarecauseandeffect：\"ForyewerestrangersinthelandofEgypt。\"
PARTII—WITHTHECHILDRENOFISRAEL
CHAPTERI。—TOINTRODUCEMR。KELMAR
ONEthinginthisnewcountryveryparticularlystrikesastranger，andthatisthenumberofantiquities。Alreadytherehavebeenmanycyclesofpopulationsucceedingeachother，andpassingawayandleavingbehindthemrelics。
These，standingonintochangedtimes，striketheimaginationasforciblyasanypyramidorfeudaltower。Thetowns，likethevineyards，areexperimentallyfounded：theygrowgreatandprosperbypassingoccasions；andwhenthelodecomestoanend，andtheminersmoveelsewhere，thetownremainsbehindthem，likePalmyrainthedesert。Isupposethereare，innocountryintheworld，somanydesertedtownsashereinCalifornia。
ThewholeneighbourhoodofMountSaintHelena，nowsoquietandsylvan，wasoncealivewithminingcampsandvillages。
Heretherewouldbetwothousandsoulsundercanvas；thereonethousandorfifteenhundredensconced，asifforever，inatownofcomfortablehouses。Buttheluckhadfailed，theminespeteredout；andthearmyofminershaddeparted，andleftthisquarteroftheworldtotherattlesnakesanddeerandgrizzlies，andtotheslowerbutsteadieradvanceofhusbandry。
Itwaswithaneyeononeofthesedesertedplaces，PineFlat，ontheGeysersroad，thatwehadcomefirsttoCalistoga。Thereissomethingsingularlyenticingintheideaofgoing，rent—free，intoaready—madehouse。AndtotheBritishmerchant，sittingathomeatease，itmayappearthat，withsucharoofoveryourheadandaspringofclearwaterhardby，thewholeproblemofthesquatter’sexistencewouldbesolved。Food，however，hasyettobeconsidered，I
willgoasfarasmostpeopleontinnedmeats；someofthebrightestmomentsofmylifewerepassedovertinnedmulli—
gatawneyinthecabinofasixteen—tonschooner，storm—stayedinPortreeBay；butaftersuitableexperiments，Ipronounceauthoritativelythatmancannotlivebytinsalone。Freshmeatmustbehadonanoccasion。ItistruethatthegreatFoss，drivingbyalongtheGeysersroad，wooden—faced，butglorifiedwithlegend，mighthavebeeninducedtobringusmeat，butthegreatFosscouldhardlybringusmilk。Totakeacowwouldhaveinvolvedtakingafieldofgrassandamilkmaid；afterwhichitwouldhavebeenhardlyworthwhiletopause，andwemighthaveaddedtoourcolonyaflockofsheepandanexperiencedbutcher。
Itisreallyverydishearteninghowwedependonotherpeopleinthislife。\"Mihiestpropositum，\"asyoumayseebythemotto，\"idquodregibus；\"andbeholditcannotbecarriedout，unlessIfindaneighbourrollingincattle。
Now，myprincipaladviserinthismatterwasonewhomIwillcallKelmar。Thatwasnotwhathecalledhimself，butassoonasIseteyesonhim，Iknewitwasoroughttobehisname；Iamsureitwillbehisnameamongtheangels。Kelmarwasthestore—keeper，aRussianJew，good—natured，inaverythrivingwayofbusiness，and，onequalterms，oneofthemostserviceableofmen。HealsohadsomethingoftheexpressionofaScotchcountryelder，who，bysomepeculiarity，shouldchancetobeaHebrew。Hehadaprojectingunderlip，withwhichhecontinuallysmiled，orrathersmirked。Mrs。Kelmarwasasingularlykindwoman；andtheoldestsonhadquiteadarkandromanticbearing，andmightbeheardonsummereveningsplayingsentimentalairsontheviolin。
Ihadnoidea，atthetimeImadehisacquaintance，whatanimportantpersonKelmarwas。ButtheJewstore—keepersofCalifornia，profitingatoncebytheneedsandhabitsofthepeople，havemadethemselvesintoomanycasesthetyrantsoftheruralpopulation。Creditisoffered，ispressedonthenewcustomer，andwhenonceheisbeyondhisdepth，thetunechanges，andheisfromthenceforthawhiteslave。I
believe，evenfromthelittleIsaw，thatKelmar，ifhechoosetoputonthescrew，couldsendhalfthesettlerspackinginaradiusofsevenoreightmilesroundCalistoga。
Thesearecontinuallypayinghim，butareneversufferedtogetoutofdebt。Hepalmsdullgoodsuponthem，fortheydarenotrefusetobuy；hegoesanddineswiththemwhenheisonanouting，andnomanisloudlierwelcomed；heistheirfamilyfriend，thedirectoroftheirbusiness，and，toadegreeelsewhereunknowninmoderndays，theirking。
Forsomereason，KelmaralwaysshookhisheadatthementionofPineFlat，andforsomedaysIthoughthedisapprovedofthewholeschemeandwasproportionatelysad。Onefinemorning，however，hemetme，wreathedinsmiles。Hehadfoundtheveryplaceforme—Silverado，anotheroldminingtown，rightupthemountain。RufeHanson，thehunter，couldtakecareofus—finepeopletheHansons；weshouldbeclosetotheTollHouse，wheretheLakeportstagecalleddaily；itwasthebestplaceformyhealth，besides。Rufehadbeenconsumptive，andwasnowquiteastrongman，ain’tit？Inshort，theplaceandallitsaccompanimentsseemedmadeforusonpurpose。
Hetookmetohisbackdoor，whence，asfromeverypointofCalistoga，MountSaintHelenacouldbeseentoweringintheair。There，inthenick，justwheretheeasternfoothillsjoinedthemountain，andsheherselfbegantoriseabovethezoneofforest—therewasSilverado。Thenamehadalreadypleasedme；thehighstationpleasedmestillmore。Ibegantoinquirewithsomeeagerness。ItwasbutalittlewhileagothatSilveradowasagreatplace。Themine—asilvermine，ofcourse—hadpromisedgreatthings。Therewasquitealivelypopulation，withseveralhotelsandboarding—houses；
andKelmarhimselfhadopenedabranchstore，anddoneextremelywell—\"Ain’tit？\"hesaid，appealingtohiswife。
Andshesaid，\"Yes；extremelywell。\"NowtherewasnoonelivinginthetownbutRufethehunter；andoncemoreIheardRufe’spraisesbytheyard，andthistimesunginchorus。
Icouldnothelpperceivingatthetimethattherewassomethingunderneath；thatnounmixeddesiretohaveuscomfortablysettledhadinspiredtheKelmarswiththisflowofwords。ButIwasimpatienttobegone，tobeaboutmykinglyproject；andwhenwewereofferedseatsinKelmar’swaggon，Iacceptedonthespot。TheplanoftheirnextSunday’soutingtookthem，bygoodfortune，overtheborderintoLakeCounty。Theywouldcarryussofar，dropusattheTollHouse，presentustotheHansons，andcallforusagainonMondaymorningearly。
CHAPTERII—FIRSTIMPRESSIONSOFSILVERADO
WEweretoleavebysixprecisely；thatwassolemnlypledgedonbothsides；andamessengercametousthelastthingatnight，toremindusofthehour。ButitwaseightbeforewegotclearofCalistoga：Kelmar，Mrs。Kelmar，afriendoftheirswhomwenamedAbramina，herlittledaughter，mywife，myself，and，stowedawaybehindus，aclusterofship’scoffee—kettles。Theselastwerehighlyornamentalinthesheenoftheirbrighttin，butIcouldinventnoreasonfortheirpresence。Ourcarriagefulreckonedup，asnearaswecouldgetatit，somethreehundredyearstothesixofus。
Fourofthesix，besides，wereHebrews。ButInever，inallmylife，wasconsciousofsostronganatmosphereofholiday。
Nowordwasspokenbutofpleasure；andevenwhenwedroveinsilence，nodsandsmileswentroundthepartylikerefreshments。
Thesunshoneoutofacloudlesssky。Closeatthezenithrodethebelatedmoon，stillclearlyvisible，and，alongonemargin，evenbright。Thewindblewagalefromthenorth；
thetreesroared；thecornandthedeepgrassinthevalleyfledinwhiteningsurges；thedusttoweredintotheairalongtheroadanddispersedlikethesmokeofbattle。Itwasclearinourteethfromthefirst，andforallthewindingsoftheroaditmanagedtokeepclearinourteethuntiltheend。
Forsometwomileswerattledthroughthevalley，skirtingtheeasternfoothills；thenwestruckofftotheright，throughhaugh—land，andpresently，crossingadrywater—
course，enteredtheTollroad，or，tobemorelocal，enteredon\"thegrade。\"TheroadmountsthenearshoulderofMountSaintHelena，boundnorthwardintoLakeCounty。Inoneplaceitskirtsalongtheedgeofanarrowanddeepcanyon，filledwithtrees，andIwasglad，indeed，nottobedrivenatthispointbythedashingFoss。Kelmar，withhisunvaryingsmile，joggingtothemotionofthetrap，droveforalltheworldlikeagood，plain，countryclergymanathome；andIprofessIblessedhimunawaresforhistimidity。
Vineyardsanddeepmeadows，islandedandframedwiththicket，gaveplacemoreandmoreasweascendedtowoodsofoakandmadrona，dottedwithenormouspines。Itwasthesepines，astheyshotabovethelowerwood，thatproducedthatpencillingofsingletreesIhadsooftenremarkedfromthevalley。
Thence，lookingupandfromhoweverfar，eachfirstandsseparateagainsttheskynobiggerthananeyelash；andalltogetherlendaquaint，fringedaspecttothehills。Theoakisnobaby；eventhemadrona，uponthesespursofMountSaintHelena，comestoafinebulkandrankswithforesttrees—
butthepineslookdownupontherestforunderwood。AsMountSaintHelenaamongherfoothills，sothesedarkgiantsout—toptheirfellow—vegetables。Alas!iftheyhadlefttheredwoods，thepines，inturn，wouldhavebeendwarfed。Buttheredwoods，fallenfromtheirhighestate，areservingasfamilybedsteads，oryetmorehumblyasfieldfences，alongallNapaValley。
Aroughsmackofresinwasintheair，andacrystalmountainpurity。Itcamepouringoverthesegreenslopesbytheoceanful。Thewoodssangaloud，andgavelargelyoftheirhealthfulbreath。Gladnessseemedtoinhabittheseupperzones，andwehadleftindifferencebehindusinthevalley。
\"Itothehillsliftmineeyes!\"Therearedaysinalifewhenthustoclimboutofthelowlands，seemslikescalingheaven。
Aswecontinuedtoascend，thewindfelluponuswithincreasingstrength。Itwasawonderhowthetwostouthorsesmanagedtopullusupthatsteepinclineandstillfacetheathleticoppositionofthewind，orhowtheirgreateyeswereabletoendurethedust。Tenminutesafterwewentby，atreefell，blockingtheroad；andevenbeforeusleaveswerethicklystrewn，andboughshadfallen，largeenoughtomakethepassagedifficult。Butnowwewerehardbythesummit。Theroadcrossestheridge，justinthenickthatKelmarshowedmefrombelow，andthen，withoutpause，plungesdownadeep，thicklywoodedglenonthefartherside。Atthehighestpointatrailstrikesupthemainhilltotheleftward；andthatleadstoSilverado。Ahundredyardsbeyond，andinakindofelbowoftheglen，standstheTollHouseHotel。Wecameuptheoneside，werecaughtuponthesummitbythewholeweightofthewindasitpouredoverintoNapaValley，andaminuteafterhaddrawnupinshelter，butallbuffettedandbreathless，attheTollHousedoor。
Awater—tank，andstables，andagrayhouseoftwostories，withgableendsandaverandah，arejammedhardagainstthehillside，justwhereastreamhascutforitselfanarrowcanyon，filledwithpines。Thepinesgorightupoverhead；alittlemoreandthestreammighthaveplayed，likeafire—
hose，ontheTollHouseroof。Infrontthegrounddropsassharplyasitrisesbehind。Thereisjustroomfortheroadandasortofpromontoryofcroquetground，andthenyoucanleanovertheedgeandlookdeepbelowyouthroughthewood。
IsaidcroquetGROUND，notGREEN；forthesurfacewasofbrown，beatenearth。Thetoll—baritselfwastheonlyothernoteoforiginality：alongbeam，turningonapost，andkeptslightlyhorizontalbyacounterweightofstones。
Regularlyaboutsundownthisrudebarrierwasswung，likeaderrick，acrosstheroadandmadefast，Ithink，toatreeuponthefartherside。
Onourarrivaltherefollowedagaysceneinthebar。IwaspresentedtoMr。Corwin，thelandlord；toMr。Jennings，theengineer，wholivesthereforhishealth；toMr。Hoddy，amostpleasantlittlegentleman，onceamemberoftheOhiolegislature，againtheeditorofalocalpaper，andnow，withundiminisheddignity，keepingtheTollHousebar。Ihadanumberofdrinksandcigarsbestowedonme，andenjoyedafamousopportunityofseeingKelmarinhisglory，friendly，radiant，smiling，steadilyedgingoneoftheship’skettlesonthereluctantCorwin。
Corwin，plainlyaghast，resistedgallantly，andforthatboutvictorycrownedhisarms。
AtlastwesetforthforSilveradoonfoot。KelmarandhisjollyJewgirlswerefullofthesentimentofSundayoutings，breathedgenialityandvagueness，andsufferedalittlevileboyfromthehoteltoleadthemhereandthereaboutthewoods。Forthreepeopleallsoold，sobulkyinbody，andbelongingtoaracesovenerable，theycouldnotbutsurpriseusbytheirextremeandalmostimbecileyouthfulnessofspirit。TheywereonlygoingtostaytenminutesattheTollHouse；hadtheynottwentylongmilesofroadbeforethemontheotherside？Staytodinner？Notthey!Putupthehorses？Never。Letusattachthemtotheverandahbyawispofstrawrope，suchaswouldnothaveheldaperson’shatonthatblusteringday。Andwithalltheseprotestationsofhurry，theyprovedirresponsiblelikechildren。Kelmarhimself，shrewdoldRussianJew，withasmirkthatseemedjusttohaveconcludedabargaintoitssatisfaction，intrustedhimselfandusdevoutlytothatboy。Yettheboywaspatentlyfallacious；andforthatmatteramostunsympatheticurchin，raisedapparentlyongingerbread。Hewasbentonhisownpleasure，nothingelse；andKelmarfollowedhimtohisruin，withthesameshrewdsmirk。Iftheboysaidtherewas\"aholethereinthehill\"—ahole，pureandsimple，neithermorenorless—KelmarandhisJewgirlswouldfollowhimahundredyardstolookcomplacentlydownthathole。Fortwohourswelookedforhouses；andfortwohourstheyfollowedus，smellingtrees，pickingflowers，foistingfalsebotanyontheunwary。Hadwetakenfive，withthatvileladtoheadthemoffonidledivagations，forfivetheywouldhavesmiledandstumbledthroughthewoods。
However，wecameforthatlength，andasbyaccident，uponalawn，sparseplantedlikeanorchard，butwithforestinsteadoffruittrees。ThatwasthesiteofSilveradominingtown。
Apieceofgroundwaslevelledup，whereKelmar’sstorehadbeen；andfacingthatwesawRufeHanson’shouse，stillbearingonitsfrontthelegendSILVERADOHOTEL。Notanothersignofhabitation。Silveradotownhadallbeencartedfromthescene；oneofthehouseswasnowtheschool—housefardowntheroad；onewasgonehere，onethere，butallweregoneaway。
Itwasnowasylvansolitude，andthesilencewasunbrokenbutbythegreat，vaguevoiceofthewind。Somedaysbeforeourvisit，agrizzlybearhadbeensportingroundtheHansons’chicken—house。
Mrs。Hansonwasathomealone，wefound。Rufehadbeenoutaftera\"bar，\"hadrisenlate，andwasnowgone，itdidnotclearlyappearwhither。PerhapshehadhadwindofKelmar’scoming，andwasnowensconcedamongtheunderwood，orwatchingusfromtheshoulderofthemountain。We，hearingtherewerenohousestobehad，wereforimmediatelygivingupallhopesofSilverado。Butthis，somehow，wasnottoKelmar’sfancy。Hefirstproposedthatweshould\"campsomeveresaround，ain’tit？\"wavinghishandcheerilyasthoughtoweaveaspell；andwhenthatwasfirmlyrejected，hedecidedthatwemusttakeuphousewiththeHansons。Mrs。
Hansonhadbeen，fromthefirst，flustered，subdued，andalittlepale；butfromthispropositionsherecoiledwithhaggardindignation。Sodidwe，whowouldhavepreferred，inamannerofspeaking，death。ButKelmarwasnottobeputby。HeedgedMrs。Hansonintoacorner，whereforalongtimehethreatenedherwithhisforefinger，likeacharacterinDickens；andthepoorwoman，driventoherentrenchments，atlastrememberedwithashriekthattherewerestillsomehousesatthetunnel。
