mountedpolicemanstartedwithusfromYubets，androdethewholewayhere，keepingexactlytomypace，butneverspeakingaword。
Wefordedonebroad，deepriver，andcrossedanother，partlybyfordingandpartlyinascow，afterwhichthetrackleftthelevel，and，afterpassingthroughreedygrassashighasthehorse’sears，wentforsomemilesupanddownhill，throughwoodscomposedentirelyoftheAilanthusglandulosus，withleavesmuchriddledbythemountainsilk-worm，andafernyundergrowthofthefamiliarPterisaquilina。Thedeepshadeandglancinglightsofthisopencopsewoodwereverypleasant；andasthehorsetrippedgailyupanddownthelittlehills，andtheseamurmurmingledwiththerustleofthebreeze，andaglintofwhitesurfsometimesflashedthroughthegreenery，anddragonfliesandbutterfliesinsuitsofcrimsonandblackvelvetcrossedthepathcontinuallylike“livingflashes“
oflight，Iwasremindedsomewhat，thoughfaintly，ofwindwardHawaii。WeemergeduponanAinohutandabeautifulplacidriver，andtwoAinosferriedthefourpeopleandhorsesacrossinascow，thethirdwadingtoguidetheboat。Theyworenoclothing，butonlyonewashairy。Theyweresuperb-lookingmen，gentle，andextremelycourteous，handingmeinandoutoftheboat，andholdingthestirrupwhileImounted，withmuchnaturalgrace。Onleavingtheyextendedtheirarmsandwavedtheirhandsinwardstwice，strokingtheirgrandbeardsafterwards，whichistheirusualsalutation。AshortdistanceovershinglebroughtustothisJapanesevillageofsixty-threehouses，acolonisationsettlement，mainlyofsamuraifromtheprovinceofSendai，whoareraisingveryfinecropsonthesandysoil。Themountains，twelvemilesintheinterior，havealargeAinopopulation，andafewAinoslivenearthisvillageandareheldingreatcontemptbyitsinhabitants。Myroomisonthevillagestreet，and，asitistoowarmtoclosetheshoji，theaboriginesstandlookinginatthelatticehourafterhour。
AshorttimeagoMr。VonSieboldandCountDiesbachgallopedupontheirreturnfromBiratori，theAinovillagetowhichIamgoing；
andCountD。，throwinghimselffromhishorse，rusheduptomewiththeexclamation，Lespuces！lespuces！Theyhavebroughtdownwiththemthechief，Benri，asuperbbutdissipated-lookingsavage。Mr。
VonSieboldcalledonmethisevening，andIenviedhimhisfresh，cleanclothingasmuchasheenviedmemystretcherandmosquito-
net。Theyhavesufferedterriblyfromfleas，mosquitoes，andgeneraldiscomfort，andaremuchexhausted；butMr。VonS。thinksthat，inspiteofall，avisittothemountainAinosisworthalongjourney。AsIexpected，theyhavecompletelyfailedintheirexplorations，andhavebeendesertedbyLieutenantKreitner。I
askedMr。VonS。tospeaktoItoinJapaneseabouttheimportanceofbeingkindandcourteoustotheAinoswhosehospitalityIshallreceive；andItoisveryindignantatthis。“TreatAinospolitely！“hesays；“they’rejustdogs，notmen；“andsincehehasregaledmewithallthescandalconcerningthemwhichhehasbeenabletoraketogetherinthevillage。
WehavetotakenotonlyfoodforbothItoandmyself，butcookingutensils。IhavebeenintroducedtoBenri，thechief；and，thoughhedoesnotreturnforadayortwo，hewillsendamessagealongwithuswhichwillensuremehospitality。
SavageLife——AForestTrack——CleanlyVillages——AHospitableReception——TheChief’sMother——TheEveningMeal——ASavageSeance——
LibationstotheGods——NocturnalSilence——AinoCourtesy——TheChief’sWife。
IaminthelonelyAinoland，andIthinkthatthemostinterestingofmytravellingexperienceshasbeenthelivingforthreedaysandtwonightsinanAinohut，andseeingandsharingthedailylifeofcompletesavages，whogoonwiththeirordinaryoccupationsjustasifIwerenotamongthem。Ifoundyesterdayamostfatiguingandover-excitingday，aseverythingwasnewandinteresting，eventheextractingfrommenwhohavefewifanyideasincommonwithmeallIcouldextractconcerningtheirreligionandcustoms，andthatthroughaninterpreter。Igotupatsixthismorningtowriteoutmynotes，andhavebeenwritingforfivehours，andthereisshortlytheprospectofanothersavageseance。Thedistractions，asyoucanimagine，aremany。Atthismomentasavageistakingacupofsakebythefireinthecentreofthefloor。Hesalutesmebyextendinghishandsandwavingthemtowardshisface，andthendipsarodinthesake，andmakessixlibationstothegod——anuprightpieceofwoodwithafringeofshavingsplantedintheflooroftheroom。Thenhewavesthecupseveraltimestowardshimself，makesotherlibationstothefire，anddrinks。Tenothermenandwomenaresittingalongeachsideofthefire-hole，thechief’swifeiscooking，themenareapatheticallycontemplatingthepreparationoftheirfood；andtheotherwomen，whoareneveridle，aresplittingthebarkofwhichtheymaketheirclothes。I
occupytheguestseat——araisedplatformatoneendofthefire，withtheskinofablackbearthrownoverit。
IhavereservedallIhavetosayabouttheAinostillIhadbeenactuallyamongthem，andIhopeyouwillhavepatiencetoreadtotheend。Itoisverygreedyandself-indulgent，andwhimperedverymuchaboutcomingtoBiratoriatall，——onewouldhavethoughthewasgoingtothestake。Heactuallyborrowedforhimselfasleepingmatandfutons，andhasbroughtachicken，onions，potatoes，Frenchbeans，Japanesesauce，tea，rice，akettle，astew-pan，andarice-pan，whileIcontentedmyselfwithacoldfowlandpotatoes。
WetookthreehorsesandamountedAinoguide，andfoundabeatentrackthewholeway。ItturnsintotheforestatonceonleavingSarufuto，andgoesthroughforesttheentiredistance，withanabundanceofreedygrasshigherthanmyhatonhorsebackalongit，and，asitisonlytwelveinchesbroadandmuchovergrown，thehorseswereconstantlypushingthroughleafagesoakingfromanight’srain，andIwassoonwetuptomyshoulders。TheforesttreesarealmostsolelytheAilanthusglandulosusandtheZelkowakeaki，oftenmattedtogetherwithawhite-floweredtraileroftheHydrangeagenus。Theundergrowthissimplyhideous，consistingmainlyofcoarsereedygrass，monstrousdocks，thelarge-leavedPolygonumcuspidatum，severalumbelliferousplants，anda“ragweed“
which，likemostofitsgawkyfellows，growsfromfivetosixfeethigh。Theforestisdarkandverysilent，threadedbythisnarrowpath，andbyothersasnarrow，madebythehuntersinsearchofgame。The“mainroad“sometimesplungesintodeepbogs，atothersisroughlycorduroyedbytherootsoftrees，andfrequentlyhangsovertheedgeofabruptandmuch-worndeclivities，ingoinguponeofwhichthebaggage-horserolleddownabankfullythirtyfeethigh，andnearlyalltheteawaslost。Atanothertheguide’spack-saddlelostitsbalance，andman，horse，andsaddlewentovertheslope，pots，pans，andpackagesflyingafterthem。Atanothertimemyhorsesankuptohischestinaverybadbog，and，ashewastotallyunabletoextricatehimself，Iwasobligedtoscrambleuponhisneckandjumptoterrafirmaoverhisears。
Thereissomethingverygloomyinthesolitudeofthissilentland，withitsbeast-hauntedforests，itsgreatpatchesofpasture，theresortofwildanimalswhichhauntthelowerregionsinsearchoffoodwhenthesnowdrivesthemdownfromthemountains，anditsnarrowtrack，indicatingthesinglefileinwhichthesavagesoftheinteriorwalkwiththeirbare，noiselessfeet。ReachingtheSarufutogawa，ariverwithatreacherousbottom，inwhichMr。VonSieboldandhishorsecametogrief，IhailedanAinoboy，whotookmeupthestreamina“dug-out，“andafterthatwepassedthroughBiroka，Saruba，andMina，allpurelyAinovillages，situatedamongsmallpatchesofmillet，tobacco，andpumpkins，sochokedwithweedsthatitwasdoubtfulwhethertheywerecrops。Iwasmuchsurprisedwiththeextremeneatnessandcleanlinessoutsidethehouses；“modelvillages“theyareintheserespects，withnolitterlyinginsightanywhere，nothingindeedbutdogtroughs，hollowedoutoflogs，like“dug-outs，“forthenumerousyellowdogs，whichareafeatureofAinolife。Thereareneitherpuddlesnorheaps，butthehouses，alltrimandingoodrepair，risecleanoutofthesandysoil。
Biratori，thelargestoftheAinosettlementsinthisregion，isveryprettilysituatedamongforestsandmountains，onrisingground，withaverysinuousriverwindingatitsfeetandawoodedheightabove。Alonelierplacecouldscarcelybefound。Aswepassedamongthehousestheyellowdogsbarked，thewomenlookedshyandsmiled，andthemenmadetheirgracefulsalutation。Westoppedatthechief’shouse，where，ofcourse，wewereunexpectedguests；butShinondi，hisnephew，andtwoothermencameout，salutedus，andwithmosthospitableintenthelpedItotounloadthehorses。Indeedtheireagerhospitalitycreatedquiteacommotion，onerunninghitherandtheotherthitherintheiranxietytowelcomeastranger。Itisalargehouse，theroombeing35by25，andtheroof20feethigh；butyouenterbyanante-
chamber，inwhicharekeptthemillet-millandotherarticles。
Thereisadoorwayinthis，buttheinsideisprettydark，andShinondi，takingmyhand，raisedthereedcurtainboundwithhide，whichconcealedtheentranceintotheactualhouse，and，leadingmeintoit，retiredafootstep，extendedhisarms，wavedhisarmsinwardsthreetimes，andthenstrokedhisbeardseveraltimes，afterwhichheindicatedbyasweepofhishandandabeautifulsmilethatthehouseandallitcontainedweremine。Anagedwoman，thechief’smother，whowassplittingbarkbythefire，wavedherhandsalso。Sheisthequeen-regnantofthehouse。
Againtakingmyhand，Shinondiledmetotheplaceofhonourattheheadofthefire——arude，movableplatformsixfeetlongbyfourbroad，andafoothigh，onwhichhelaidanornamentalmat，apologisingfornothavingatthatmomentabearskinwherewithtocoverit。Thebaggagewasspeedilybroughtinbyseveralwillingpairsofhands；somereedmatsfifteenfeetlongwerelaiddownupontheverycoarseoneswhichcoveredthewholefloor，andwhentheysawItoputtingupmystretchertheyhungafinematalongtheroughwalltoconcealit，andsuspendedanotheronthebeamsoftheroofforacanopy。Thealacrityandinstinctivehospitalitywithwhichthesemenrushedabouttomakethingscomfortablewereveryfascinating，thoughcomfortisawordmisappliedinanAinohut。
Thewomenonlydidwhatthementoldthem。
Theyofferedfoodatonce，butItoldthemthatIhadbroughtmyown，andwouldonlyaskleavetocookitontheirfire。Ineednothavebroughtanycups，fortheyhavemanylacquerbowls，andShinondibroughtmeonalacquertrayabowlfullofwaterfromoneoftheirfourwells。TheysaidthatBenri，thechief，wouldwishmetomakehishousemyownforaslongasIcaredtostay，andI
mustexcusetheminallthingsinwhichtheirwaysweredifferentfrommyown。ShinondiandfourothersinthevillagespeaktolerableJapanese，andthisofcourseisthemediumofcommunication。Itohasexertedhimselfnoblyasaninterpreter，andhasenteredintomywisheswithacordialityandintelligencewhichhavebeenperfectlyinvaluable；and，thoughhedidgrowlatMr。VonSiebold’sinjunctionsregardingpoliteness，hehascarriedthemouttomysatisfaction，andevenadmitsthatthemountainAinosarebetterthanheexpected；“but，“headded“theyhavelearnedtheirpolitenessfromtheJapanese！“Theyhaveneverseenaforeignwoman，andonlythreeforeignmen，butthereisneithercrowdingnorstaringasamongtheJapanese，possiblyinpartfromapathyandwantofintelligence。Forthreedaystheyhavekeptuptheirgracefulandkindlyhospitality，goingonwiththeirordinarylifeandoccupations，and，thoughIhavelivedamongtheminthisroombydayandnight，therehasbeennothingwhichinanywaycouldoffendthemostfastidioussenseofdelicacy。
Theysaidtheywouldleavemetoeatandrest，andallretiredbutthechief’smother，aweird，witch-likewomanofeighty，withshocksofyellow-whitehair，andasternsuspiciousnessinherwrinkledface。Ihavecometofeelasifshehadtheevileye，asshesitstherewatching，watchingalways，andforeverknottingthebarkthreadlikeoneoftheFates，keepingajealouswatchonherson’stwowives，andonotheryoungwomenwhocomeintoweave——
neitherthedulnessnorthereposeofoldageabouther；andhereyesgleamwithagreedylightwhensheseessake，ofwhichshedrainsabowlwithouttakingbreath。Shealoneissuspiciousofstrangers，andshethinksthatmyvisitbodesnogoodtohertribe。
Iseehereyesfixeduponmenow，andtheymakemeshudder。
Ihadagoodmealseatedinmychaironthetopoftheguest-seattoavoidthefleas，whicharetrulylegion。AtduskShinondireturned，andsoonpeoplebegantodropin，tilleighteenwereassembled，includingthesub-chiefandseveralverygrand-lookingoldmen，withfull，grey，wavybeards。Ageisheldinmuchreverence，anditisetiquettefortheseoldmentodohonourtoaguestinthechief’sabsence。Aseachenteredhesalutedmeseveraltimes，andaftersittingdownturnedtowardsmeandsalutedagain，goingthroughthesameceremonywitheveryotherperson。
Theysaidtheyhadcome“tobidmewelcome。“Theytooktheirplacesinrigidorderateachsideofthefireplace，whichissixfeetlong，Benri’smotherintheplaceofhonourattheright，thenShinondi，thenthesub-chief，andontheothersidetheoldmen。
