Thereisadeepsolemnityaboutthisgloriousavenuewithitsbroadshadeanddancinglights，andtherareglimpsesofhighmountains。
Instinctalonewouldtellonethatitleadstosomethingwhichmustbegrandandbeautifullikeitself。Itisbrokenoccasionallybysmallvillageswithbigbellssuspendedbetweendoublepoles；bywaysideshrineswithofferingsofragsandflowers；bystoneeffigiesofBuddhaandhisdisciples，mostlydefacedoroverthrown，allwearingthesameexpressionofbeatifiedrestandindifferencetomundaneaffairs；andbytemplesoflacqueredwoodfallingtodecay，whosebellssenttheirsurpassinglysweettonesfarontheeveningair。
Imaichi，wherethetwostatelyaislesunite，isalonguphillstreet，withaclearmountainstreamenclosedinastonechannel，andcrossedbyhewnstoneslabsrunningdownthemiddle。Inaroombuiltoverthestream，andcommandingaviewupanddownthestreet，twopolicemensatwriting。Itlooksadullplacewithoutmuchtraffic，asifoppressedbythestatelinessoftheavenuesbelowitandtheshrinesaboveit，butithasaquietyadoya，whereIhadagoodnight’srest，althoughmycanvasbedwasnearlyontheground。Weleftearlythismorningindrizzlingrain，andwentstraightuphillunderthecryptomeriaforeightmiles。Thevegetationisasprofuseasonewouldexpectinsodampandhotasummerclimate，andfromtheprodigiousrainfallofthemountains；
everystoneiscoveredwithmoss，andtheroad-sidesaregreenwiththeProtococcusviridisandseveralspeciesofMarchantia。WewereamongthefoothillsoftheNantaizanmountainsataheightof1000
feet，abruptintheirforms，woodedtotheirsummits，andnoisywiththedashandtumbleofathousandstreams。ThelongstreetofHachiishi，withitssteep-roofed，deep-eavedhouses，itswarmcolouring，anditssteeproadwaywithstepsatintervals，hasasortofSwisspicturesquenessasyouenterit，asyoumust，onfoot，whileyourkurumasarehauledandliftedupthesteps；noristheresemblancegivenbysteeproofs，pines，andmountainspatchedwithconiferae，altogetherlostasyouascendthesteepstreet，andseewoodcarvingsandquaintbasketsofwoodandgrassofferedeverywhereforsale。Itisatrulydull，quaintstreet，andthepeoplecomeouttostareataforeignerasifforeignershadnotbecomecommoneventssince1870，whenSirH。andLadyParkes，thefirstEuropeanswhowerepermittedtovisitNikko，tookuptheirabodeintheImperialHombo。Itisadoll’sstreetwithsmalllowhouses，sofinelymatted，soexquisitelyclean，sofinicallyneat，solightanddelicate，thatevenwhenIenteredthemwithoutmybootsIfeltlikea“bullinachinashop，“asifmymereweightmustsmashthroughanddestroy。ThestreetissopainfullycleanthatIshouldnomorethinkofwalkingoveritinmuddybootsthanoveradrawing-roomcarpet。Ithasasilentmountainlook，andmostofitsshopssellspecialties，lacquerwork，boxesofsweetmeatsmadeofblackbeansandsugar，allsortsofboxes，trays，cups，andstands，madeofplain，polishedwood，andmoregrotesquearticlesmadefromtherootsoftrees。
ItwasnotpartofmyplantostayatthebeautifulyadoyawhichreceivesforeignersinHachiishi，andIsentItohalfamilefartherwithanoteinJapanesetotheownerofthehousewhereI
nowam，whileIsatonarockyeminenceatthetopofthestreet，unmolestedbyanybody，lookingovertothesolemngrovesuponthemountains，wherethetwogreatestoftheShoguns“sleepinglory。“
Below，therushingDaiyagawa，swollenbythenight’srain，thunderedthroughanarrowgorge。Beyond，colossalflightsofstonestairsstretchmysteriouslyawayamongcryptomeriagroves，abovewhichtowertheNikkosanmountains。Justwherethetorrentfindsitsimpetuositycheckedbytwostonewalls，itisspannedbyabridge，84feetlongby18wide，ofdullredlacquer，restingontwostonepiersoneitherside，connectedbytwotransversestonebeams。Awelcomebitofcolouritisamidstthemassesofdarkgreensandsoftgreys，thoughthereisnothingimposinginitsstructure，anditsinterestconsistsinbeingtheMihashi，orSacredBridge，builtin1636，formerlyopenonlytotheShoguns，theenvoyoftheMikado，andtopilgrimstwiceayear。Bothitsgatesarelocked。GrandandlonelyNikkolooks，thehomeofrainandmist。Kurumaroadsendhere，andifyouwishtogoanyfarther，youmusteitherwalk，ride，orbecarried。
Itowaslongaway，andthecoolieskeptaddressingmeinJapanese，whichmademefeelhelplessandsolitary，andeventuallytheyshoulderedmybaggage，and，descendingaflightofsteps，wecrossedtheriverbythesecularbridge，andshortlymetmyhost，Kanaya，averybright，pleasant-lookingman，whobowednearlytotheearth。Terracedroadsineverydirectionleadthroughcryptomeriastotheshrines；andthisonepassesmanyastatelyenclosure，butleadsawayfromthetemples，andthoughitisthehighwaytoChiuzenjii，aplaceofpopularpilgrimage，Yumoto，aplaceofpopularresort，andseveralothervillages，itisveryrugged，and，havingflightsofstonestepsatintervals，isonlypracticableforhorsesandpedestrians。
Atthehouse，withtheappearanceofwhichIwasatoncedelighted，Iregretfullypartedwithmycoolies，whohadservedmekindlyandfaithfully。Theyhadpaidmemanylittleattentions，suchasalwaysbeatingthedustoutofmydress，inflatingmyair-pillow，andbringingmeflowers，andwerealwaysgratefulwhenIwalkeduphills；andjustnow，aftergoingforafrolictothemountains，theycalledtowishmegood-bye，bringingbranchesofazaleas。I。
Idon’tknowwhattowriteaboutmyhouse。ItisaJapaneseidyll；
thereisnothingwithinorwithoutwhichdoesnotpleasetheeye，and，afterthedinofyadoyas，itssilence，musicalwiththedashofwatersandthetwitterofbirds，istrulyrefreshing。Itisasimplebutirregulartwo-storiedpavilion，standingonastone-
facedterraceapproachedbyaflightofstonesteps。Thegardeniswelllaidout，and，aspeonies，irises，andazaleasarenowinblossom，itisverybright。Themountain，withitslowerpartcoveredwithredazaleas，risesjustbehind，andastreamwhichtumblesdownitsuppliesthehousewithwater，bothcoldandpure，andanother，afterformingaminiaturecascade，passesunderthehouseandthroughafish-pondwithrockyisletsintotheriverbelow。ThegreyvillageofIrimichiliesontheothersideoftheroad，shutinwiththerushingDaiya，andbeyonditarehigh，brokenhills，richlywooded，andslashedwithravinesandwaterfalls。
Kanaya’ssister，averysweet，refined-lookingwoman，metmeatthedooranddivestedmeofmyboots。Thetwoverandahsarehighlypolished，soaretheentranceandthestairswhichleadtomyroom，andthematsaresofineandwhitethatIalmostfeartowalkoverthem，eveninmystockings。Thepolishedstairsleadtoahighlypolished，broadverandahwithabeautifulview，fromwhichyouenteronelargeroom，which，beingtoolarge，wasatoncemadeintotwo。Fourhighlypolishedstepsleadfromthisintoanexquisiteroomattheback，whichItooccupies，andanotherpolishedstaircaseintothebath-houseandgarden。Thewholefrontofmyroomiscomposedofshoji，whichslidebackduringtheday。Theceilingisoflightwoodcrossedbybarsofdarkwood，andthepostswhichsupportitareofdarkpolishedwood。Thepanelsareofwrinkledsky-bluepapersplashedwithgold。Atoneendaretwoalcoveswithfloorsofpolishedwood，calledtokonoma。Inonehangsakakemono，orwall-picture，apaintingofablossomingbranchofthecherryonwhitesilk——aperfectpieceofart，whichinitselffillstheroomwithfreshnessandbeauty。Theartistwhopainteditpaintednothingbutcherryblossoms，andfellintherebellion。Onashelfintheotheralcoveisaveryvaluablecabinetwithslidingdoors，onwhichpeoniesarepaintedonagoldground。Asinglesprayofroseazaleainapurewhitevasehangingononeofthepolishedposts，andasingleirisinanother，aretheonlydecorations。Thematsareveryfineandwhite，buttheonlyfurnitureisafoldingscreenwithsomesuggestionsoflandscapeinIndianink。Ialmostwishthattheroomswerealittlelessexquisite，forIaminconstantdreadofspillingtheink，indentingthemats，ortearingthepaperwindows。Downstairsthereisaroomequallybeautiful，andalargespacewhereallthedomesticavocationsarecarriedon。Thereisakura，orfire-proofstorehouse，withatiledroof，ontherightofthehouse。
KanayaleadsthediscordsattheShintoshrines；buthisdutiesarefew，andheischieflyoccupiedinperpetuallyembellishinghishouseandgarden。Hismother，avenerableoldlady，andhissister，thesweetestandmostgracefulJapanesewomanbutonethatIhaveseen，livewithhim。Shemovesaboutthehouselikeafloatingfairy，andhervoicehasmusicinitstones。Ahalf-
wittedservant-manandthesister’sboyandgirlcompletethefamily。Kanayaisthechiefmaninthevillage，andisveryintelligentandapparentlywelleducated。Hehasdivorcedhiswife，andhissisterhaspracticallydivorcedherhusband。Oflate，tohelphisincome，hehasletthesecharmingroomstoforeignerswhohavebroughtletterstohim，andheisveryanxioustomeettheirviews，whilehisgoodtasteleadshimtoavoidEuropeanisinghisbeautifulhome。
Suppercameuponazen，orsmalltablesixincheshigh，ofoldgoldlacquer，withthericeinagoldlacquerbowl，andtheteapotandcupwerefineKagaporcelain。Formytworooms，withriceandtea，Ipay2s。aday。Itoforagesforme，andcanoccasionallygetchickensat10d。each，andadishoftroutfor6d。，andeggsarealwaystobehadfor1d。each。Itisextremelyinterestingtoliveinaprivatehouseandtoseetheexternalities，atleast，ofdomesticlifeinaJapanesemiddle-classhome。I。L。B。
TheBeautiesofNikko——TheBurialofIyeyasu——TheApproachtotheGreatShrines——TheYomeiGate——GorgeousDecorations——SimplicityoftheMausoleum——TheShrineofIyemitsu——ReligiousArtofJapanandIndia——AnEarthquake——BeautiesofWood-carving。
IhavebeenatNikkoforninedays，andamthereforeentitledtousetheword“Kek’ko！“
Nikkomeans“sunnysplendour，“anditsbeautiesarecelebratedinpoetryandartalloverJapan。Mountainsforagreatpartoftheyearclothedorpatchedwithsnow，piledingreatrangesroundNantaizan，theirmonarch，worshippedasagod；forestsofmagnificenttimber；ravinesandpassesscarcelyexplored；darkgreenlakessleepinginendlessserenity；thedeepabyssofKegon，intowhichthewatersofChiuzenjiiplungefromaheightof250
feet；thebrightbeautyofthefallsofKiriFuri，thelovelinessofthegardensofDainichido；thesombregrandeurofthepassesthroughwhichtheDaiyagawaforcesitswayfromtheupperregions；
agorgeousnessofazaleasandmagnolias；andaluxuriousnessofvegetationperhapsunequalledinJapan，areonlyafewoftheattractionswhichsurroundtheshrinesofthetwogreatestShoguns。
Toagloriousresting-placeonthehill-slopeofHotokeIwa，sacredsince767，whenaBuddhistsaint，calledShodoShonin，visitedit，anddeclaredtheoldShintodeityofthemountaintobeonlyamanifestationofBuddha，Hidetada，thesecondShogunoftheTokugawadynasty，conveyedthecorpseofhisfather，Iyeyasu，in1617。Itwasasplendidburial。AnImperialenvoy，apriestoftheMikado’sfamily，courtnoblesfromKivoto，andhundredsofdaimiyos，captains，andnoblesofinferiorrank，tookpartintheceremony。Anarmyofpriestsinrichrobesduringthreedaysintonedasacredclassic10，000times，andIyeyasuwasdeifiedbyadecreeoftheMikadounderanamesignifying“lightoftheeast，greatincarnationofBuddha。“ThelessimportantShogunsofthelineofTokugawaareburiedinUyenoandShiba，inYedo。Sincetherestoration，andwhatmaybecalledthedisestablishmentofBuddhism，theshrineofIyeyasuhasbeenshornofallitsgloriesofritualanditsmagnificentBuddhistparaphernalia；the200
