第50章

类别:其他 作者:Charles Darwin字数:6046更新时间:18/12/21 17:23:57
whichsamecircumstancehasbeenmentionedassometimesoccurringwiththegreatrodent,theCapybara。Asmallsea-otterisverynumerous;thisanimaldoesnotfeedexclusivelyonfish,but,liketheseals,drawsalargesupplyfromasmallredcrab,whichswimsinshoalsnearthesurfaceofthewater。Mr。BynoesawoneinTierradelFuegoeatingacuttle-fish; andatLow’sHarbour,anotherwaskilledintheactofcarryingtoitsholealargevoluteshell。AtoneplaceIcaughtinatrapasingularlittlemouse(M。brachiotis);itappearedcommononseveraloftheislets,buttheChilotansatLow’sHarboursaidthatitwasnotfoundinall。Whatasuccessionofchances,[3]orwhatchangesoflevelmusthavebeenbroughtintoplay,thustospreadthesesmallanimalsthroughoutthisbrokenarchipelago! InallpartsofChiloeandChonos,twoverystrangebirdsoccur,whicharealliedto,andreplace,theTurcoandTapacoloofcentralChile。Oneiscalledbytheinhabitants“Cheucau“(Pteroptochosrubecula):itfrequentsthemostgloomyandretiredspotswithinthedampforests。Sometimes,althoughitscrymaybeheardcloseathand,letapersonwatcheversoattentivelyhewillnotseethecheucau;atothertimes,lethimstandmotionlessandthered-breastedlittlebirdwillapproachwithinafewfeetinthemostfamiliarmanner。Itthenbusilyhopsabouttheentangledmassofrottingconesandbranches,withitslittletailcockedupwards。ThecheucauisheldinsuperstitiousfearbytheChilotans,onaccountofitsstrangeandvariedcries。Therearethreeverydistinctcries:Oneiscalled“chiduco。” andisanomenofgood;another,“huitreu。”whichisextremelyunfavourable; andathird,whichIhaveforgotten。Thesewordsaregiveninimitationofthenoises;andthenativesareinsomethingsabsolutelygovernedbythem。TheChilotansassuredlyhavechosenamostcomicallittlecreaturefortheirprophet。Analliedspecies,butratherlarger,iscalledbythenatives“Guid-guid“(PteroptochosTarnii),andbytheEnglishthebarking-bird。 Thislatternameiswellgiven;forIdefyanyoneatfirsttofeelcertainthatasmalldogisnotyelpingsomewhereintheforest。Justaswiththecheucau,apersonwillsometimeshearthebarkcloseby,butinvainmanyendeavourbywatching,andwithstilllesschancebybeatingthebushes,toseethebird;yetatothertimestheguid-guidfearlesslycomesnear。 Itsmanneroffeedinganditsgeneralhabitsareverysimilartothoseofthecheucau。 Onthecoast,[4]asmalldusky-colouredbird(OpetiorhynchusPatagonicus)isverycommon。Itisremarkablefromitsquiethabits;itlivesentirelyonthesea-beach,likeasandpiper。Besidesthesebirdsonlyfewothersinhabitthisbrokenland。InmyroughnotesIdescribethestrangenoises,which,althoughfrequentlyheardwithinthesegloomyforests,yetscarcelydisturbthegeneralsilence。Theyelpingoftheguid-guid,andthesuddenwhew-whewofthecheucau,sometimescomefromafaroff,andsometimesfromcloseathand;thelittleblackwrenofTierradelFuegooccasionallyaddsitscry;thecreeper(Oxyurus)followstheintruderscreamingandtwittering;thehumming-birdmaybeseeneverynowandthendartingfromsidetoside,andemitting,likeaninsect,itsshrillchirp;lastly,fromthetopofsomeloftytreetheindistinctbutplaintivenoteofthewhite-tuftedtyrant-flycatcher(Myiobius)maybenoticed。Fromthegreatpreponderanceinmostcountriesofcertaincommongeneraofbirds,suchasthefinches,onefeelsatfirstsurprisedatmeetingwiththepeculiarformsaboveenumerated,asthecommonestbirdsinanydistrict。IncentralChiletwoofthem,namely,theOxyurusandScytalopus,occur,althoughmostrarely。Whenfinding,asinthiscase,animalswhichseemtoplaysoinsignificantapartinthegreatschemeofnature,oneisapttowonderwhytheywerecreated。 Butitshouldalwaysberecollected,thatinsomeothercountryperhapstheyareessentialmembersofsociety,oratsomeformerperiodmayhavebeenso。IfAmericasouthof37degs。weresunkbeneaththewatersoftheocean,thesetwobirdsmightcontinuetoexistincentralChileforalongperiod,butitisveryimprobablethattheirnumberswouldincrease。Weshouldthenseeacasewhichmustinevitablyhavehappenedwithverymanyanimals。 ThesesouthernseasarefrequentedbyseveralspeciesofPetrels:thelargestkind,Procellariagigantea,ornelly(quebrantahuesos,orbreak-bones,oftheSpaniards),isacommonbird,bothintheinlandchannelsandontheopensea。Initshabitsandmannerofflight,thereisaverycloseresemblancewiththealbatross;andaswiththealbatross,apersonmaywatchitforhourstogetherwithoutseeingonwhatitfeeds。The“break-bones“ is,however,arapaciousbird,foritwasobservedbysomeoftheofficersatPortSt。Antoniochasingadiver,whichtriedtoescapebydivingandflying,butwascontinuallystruckdown,andatlastkilledbyablowonitshead。AtPortSt。Julianthesegreatpetrelswereseenkillinganddevouringyounggulls。Asecondspecies(Puffinuscinereus),whichiscommontoEurope,CapeHorn,andthecoastofPeru,isofmuchsmallersizethantheP。gigantea,but,likeit,ofadirtyblackcolour。Itgenerallyfrequentstheinlandsoundsinverylargeflocks:IdonotthinkIeversawsomanybirdsofanyothersorttogether,asIoncesawofthesebehindtheislandofChiloe。Hundredsofthousandsflewinanirregularlineforseveralhoursinonedirection。Whenpartoftheflocksettledonthewaterthesurfacewasblackened,andanoiseproceededfromthemasofhumanbeingstalkinginthedistance。 Thereareseveralotherspeciesofpetrels,butIwillonlymentiononeotherkind,thePelacanoidesBerardiwhichoffersanexampleofthoseextraordinarycases,ofabirdevidentlybelongingtoonewell-markedfamily,yetbothinitshabitsandstructurealliedtoaverydistincttribe。Thisbirdneverleavesthequietinlandsounds。Whendisturbeditdivestoadistance,andoncomingtothesurface,withthesamemovementtakesflight。 Afterflyingbyarapidmovementofitsshortwingsforaspaceinastraightline,itdrops,asifstruckdead,anddivesagain。Theformofitsbeakandnostrils,lengthoffoot,andeventhecolouringofitsplumage,showthatthisbirdisapetrel:ontheotherhand,itsshortwingsandconsequentlittlepowerofflight,itsformofbodyandshapeoftail,theabsenceofahindtoetoitsfoot,itshabitofdiving,anditschoiceofsituation,makeitatfirstdoubtfulwhetheritsrelationshipisnotequallyclosewiththeauks。Itwouldundoubtedlybemistakenforanauk,whenseenfromadistance,eitheronthewing,orwhendivingandquietlyswimmingabouttheretiredchannelsofTierradelFuego。[1]HorticulturalTransact。,vol。v。p。249。Mr。 Caldeleughsenthometwotubers,which,beingwellmanured,eventhefirstseasonproducednumerouspotatoesandanabundanceofleaves。SeeHumboldt’sinterestingdiscussiononthisplant,whichitappearswasunknowninMexico,——inPolit。EssayonNewSpain,bookiv。chap。ix。 [2]Bysweepingwithmyinsect-net,Iprocuredfromthesesituationsaconsiderablenumberofminuteinsects,ofthefamilyofStaphylinidae,andothersalliedtoPselaphus,andminuteHymenoptera。 Butthemostcharacteristicfamilyinnumber,bothofindividualsandspecies,throughoutthemoreopenpartsofChiloeandChonosisthatofTelephoridae。 [3]Itissaidthatsomerapaciousbirdsbringtheirpreyalivetotheirnests。Ifso,inthecourseofcenturies,everynowandthen,onemightescapefromtheyoungbirds。Somesuchagencyisnecessary,toaccountforthedistributionofthesmallergnawinganimalsonislandsnotveryneareachother。 [4]Imaymention,asaproofofhowgreatadifferencethereisbetweentheseasonsofthewoodedandtheopenpartsofthiscoast,thatonSeptember20th,inlat。34degs。,thesebirdshadyoungonesinthenest,whileamongtheChonosIslands,threemonthslaterinthesummer,theywereonlylaying,thedifferenceinlatitudebetweenthesetwoplacesbeingabout700miles。PreviousChapterNextChapterTheVoyageoftheBeagle-Chapter14TheVoyageoftheBeaglebyCharlesDarwinPreviousChapterNextChapterChapter14-ChiloeandConcepcion:GreatEarthquakeONJANUARYthe15thwesailedfromLow’sHarbour,andthreedaysafterwardsanchoredasecondtimeinthebayofS。CarlosinChiloe。Onthenightofthe19ththevolcanoofOsornowasinaction。Atmidnightthesentryobservedsomethinglikealargestar,whichgraduallyincreasedinsizetillaboutthreeo’clock,whenitpresentedaverymagnificentspectacle。 Bytheaidofaglass,darkobjects,inconstantsuccession,wereseen,inthemidstofagreatglareofredlight,tobethrownupandtofalldown。Thelightwassufficienttocastonthewateralongbrightreflection。 LargemassesofmoltenmatterseemverycommonlytobecastoutofthecratersinthispartoftheCordillera。IwasassuredthatwhentheCorcovadoisineruption,greatmassesareprojectedupwardsandareseentoburstintheair,assumingmanyfantasticalforms,suchastrees:theirsizemustbeimmense,fortheycanbedistinguishedfromthehighlandbehindS。Carlos,whichisnolessthanninety-threemilesfromtheCorcovado。 Inthemorningthevolcanobecametranquil。 IwassurprisedathearingafterwardsthatAconcaguainChile,480milesnorthwards,wasinactiononthesamenight;andstillmoresurprisedtohearthatthegreateruptionofCoseguina(2700milesnorthofAconcagua),accompaniedbyanearthquakefeltovera1000miles,alsooccurredwithinsixhoursofthissametime。Thiscoincidenceisthemoreremarkable,asCoseguinahadbeendormantfortwenty-sixyears;andAconcaguamostrarelyshowsanysignsofaction。Itisdifficulteventoconjecturewhetherthiscoincidencewasaccidental,orshowssomesubterraneanconnection。IfVesuvius,Etna,andHeclainIceland(allthreerelativelynearereachotherthanthecorrespondingpointsinSouthAmerica),suddenlyburstforthineruptiononthesamenight,thecoincidencewouldbethoughtremarkable;butitisfarmoreremarkableinthiscase,wherethethreeventsfallonthesamegreatmountain-chain,andwherethevastplainsalongtheentireeasterncoast,andtheupraisedrecentshellsalongmorethan2000milesonthewesterncoast,showinhowequableandconnectedamannertheelevatoryforceshaveacted。 CaptainFitzRoybeinganxiousthatsomebearingsshouldbetakenontheoutercoastofChiloe,itwasplannedthatMr。KingandmyselfshouldridetoCastro,andthenceacrosstheislandtotheCapelladeCucao,situatedonthewestcoast。Havinghiredhorsesandaguide,wesetoutonthemorningofthe22nd。Wehadnotproceededfar,beforewewerejoinedbyawomanandtwoboys,whowerebentonthesamejourney。Everyoneonthisroadactsona“hailfellowwellmet“fashion;andonemayhereenjoytheprivilege,sorareinSouthAmerica,oftravellingwithoutfirearms。Atfirst,thecountryconsistedofasuccessionofhillsandvalleys:nearertoCastroitbecameverylevel。Theroaditselfisacuriousaffair;itconsistsinitswholelength,withtheexceptionofveryfewparts,ofgreatlogsofwood,whichareeitherbroadandlaidlongitudinally,ornarrowandplacedtransversely。Insummertheroadisnotverybad;butinwinter,whenthewoodisrenderedslipperyfromrain,travellingisexceedinglydifficult。Atthattimeoftheyear,thegroundoneachsidebecomesamorass,andisoftenoverflowed:henceitisnecessarythatthelongitudinallogsshouldbefasteneddownbytransversepoles,whicharepeggedoneachsideintotheearth。Thesepegsrenderafallfromahorsedangerous,asthechanceofalightingononeofthemisnotsmall。Itisremarkable,however,howactivecustomhasmadetheChilotanhorses。Incrossingbadparts,wherethelogshadbeendisplaced,theyskippedfromonetotheother,almostwiththequicknessandcertaintyofadog。Onbothhandstheroadisborderedbytheloftyforest-trees,withtheirbasesmattedtogetherbycanes。Whenoccasionallyalongreachofthisavenuecouldbebeheld,itpresentedacurioussceneofuniformity:thewhitelineoflogs,narrowinginperspective,becamehiddenbythegloomyforest,orterminatedinazigzagwhichascendedsomesteephill。 AlthoughthedistancefromS。CarlostoCastroisonlytwelveleaguesinastraightline,theformationoftheroadmusthavebeenagreatlabour。 Iwastoldthatseveralpeoplehadformerlylosttheirlivesinattemptingtocrosstheforest。ThefirstwhosucceededwasanIndian,whocuthiswaythroughthecanesineightdays,andreachedS。Carlos:hewasrewardedbytheSpanishgovernmentwithagrantofland。Duringthesummer,manyoftheIndianswanderabouttheforests(butchieflyinthehigherparts,wherethewoodsarenotquitesothick)insearchofthehalf-wildcattlewhichliveontheleavesofthecaneandcertaintrees。Itwasoneofthesehuntsmenwhobychancediscovered,afewyearssince,anEnglishvessel,whichhadbeenwreckedontheoutercoast。Thecrewwerebeginningtofailinprovisions,anditisnotprobablethat,withouttheaidofthisman,theywouldeverhaveextricatedthemselvesfromthesescarcelypenetrablewoods。Asitwas,oneseamandiedonthemarch,fromfatigue。TheIndiansintheseexcursionssteerbythesun;sothatifthereisacontinuanceofcloudyweather,theycannottravel。 Thedaywasbeautiful,andthenumberoftreeswhichwereinfullflowerperfumedtheair;yeteventhiscouldhardlydissipatetheeffectsofthegloomydampnessoftheforest。Moreover,themanydeadtrunksthatstandlikeskeletons,neverfailtogivetotheseprimevalwoodsacharacterofsolemnity,absentinthoseofcountrieslongcivilized。Shortlyaftersunsetwebivouackedforthenight。Ourfemalecompanion,whowasrathergood-looking,belongedtooneofthemostrespectablefamiliesinCastro: