[10]AninhabitantofMendoza，andhencewellcapableofjudging，assuredmethat，duringtheseveralyearshehadresidedontheseislands，hehadneverfelttheslightestshockofanearthquake。
[11]Iwassurprisedtofind，oncountingtheeggsofalargewhiteDoris(thissea-slugwasthreeandahalfincheslong)，howextraordinarilynumeroustheywere。Fromtwotofiveeggs(eachthree-thousandthsofaninchindiameter)werecontainedinsphericallittlecase。Thesewerearrangedtwodeepintransverserowsformingaribbon。
Theribbonadheredbyitsedgetotherockinanovalspire。OnewhichIfound，measurednearlytwentyinchesinlengthandhalfinbreadth。Bycountinghowmanyballswerecontainedinatenthofaninchintherow，andhowmanyrowsinanequallengthoftheribbon，onthemostmoderatecomputationthereweresixhundredthousandeggs。YetthisDoriswascertainlynotverycommon；althoughIwasoftensearchingunderthestones，Isawonlysevenindividuals。Nofallacyismorecommonwithnaturalists，thanthatthenumbersofanindividualspeciesdependonitspowersofpropagation。PreviousChapterNextChapterTheVoyageoftheBeagle-Chapter10TheVoyageoftheBeaglebyCharlesDarwinPreviousChapterNextChapterChapter10-TierraDelFuegoDECEMBER17th，1832——HavingnowfinishedwithPatagoniaandtheFalklandIslands，IwilldescribeourfirstarrivalinTierradelFuego。
AlittleafternoonwedoubledCapeSt。Diego，andenteredthefamousstraitofLeMaire。WekeptclosetotheFuegianshore，buttheoutlineoftherugged，inhospitableStatenlandwasvisibleamidsttheclouds。IntheafternoonweanchoredintheBayofGoodSuccess。Whileenteringweweresalutedinamannerbecomingtheinhabitantsofthissavageland。AgroupofFuegianspartlyconcealedbytheentangledforest，wereperchedonawildpointoverhangingthesea；andaswepassedby，theysprangupandwavingtheirtatteredcloakssentforthaloudandsonorousshout。Thesavagesfollowedtheship，andjustbeforedarkwesawtheirfire，andagainheardtheirwildcry。Theharbourconsistsofafinepieceofwaterhalfsurroundedbylowroundedmountainsofclay-slate，whicharecoveredtothewater’sedgebyonedensegloomyforest。AsingleglanceatthelandscapewassufficienttoshowmehowwidelydifferentitwasfromanythingIhadeverbeheld。
Atnightitblewagaleofwind，andheavysquallsfromthemountainssweptpastus。Itwouldhavebeenabadtimeoutatsea，andwe，aswellasothers，maycallthisGoodSuccessBay。
InthemorningtheCaptainsentapartytocommunicatewiththeFuegians。
Whenwecamewithinhail，oneofthefournativeswhowerepresentadvancedtoreceiveus，andbegantoshoutmostvehemently，wishingtodirectuswheretoland。Whenwewereonshorethepartylookedratheralarmed，butcontinuedtalkingandmakinggestureswithgreatrapidity。ItwaswithoutexceptionthemostcuriousandinterestingspectacleIeverbeheld：Icouldnothavebelievedhowwidewasthedifferencebetweensavageandcivilizedman：itisgreaterthanbetweenawildanddomesticatedanimal，inasmuchasinmanthereisagreaterpowerofimprovement。Thechiefspokesmanwasold，andappearedtobetheheadofthefamily；thethreeotherswerepowerfulyoungmen，aboutsixfeethigh。Thewomenandchildrenhadbeensentaway。TheseFuegiansareaverydifferentracefromthestunted，miserablewretchesfartherwestward；andtheyseemcloselyalliedtothefamousPatagoniansoftheStraitofMagellan。Theironlygarmentconsistsofamantlemadeofguanacoskin，withthewooloutside：thistheywearjustthrownovertheirshoulders，leavingtheirpersonsasoftenexposedascovered。Theirskinisofadirtycoppery-redcolour。
Theoldmanhadafilletofwhitefeatherstiedroundhishead，whichpartlyconfinedhisblack，coarse，andentangledhair。Hisfacewascrossedbytwobroadtransversebars；one，paintedbrightred，reachedfromeartoearandincludedtheupperlip；theother，whitelikechalk，extendedaboveandparalleltothefirst，sothatevenhiseyelidswerethuscoloured。
Theothertwomenwereornamentedbystreaksofblackpowder，madeofcharcoal。
ThepartyaltogethercloselyresembledthedevilswhichcomeonthestageinplayslikeDerFreischutz。
Theirveryattitudeswereabject，andtheexpressionoftheircountenancesdistrustful，surprised，andstartled。Afterwehadpresentedthemwithsomescarletcloth，whichtheyimmediatelytiedroundtheirnecks，theybecamegoodfriends。Thiswasshownbytheoldmanpattingourbreasts，andmakingachucklingkindofnoise，aspeopledowhenfeedingchickens。
Iwalkedwiththeoldman，andthisdemonstrationoffriendshipwasrepeatedseveraltimes；itwasconcludedbythreehardslaps，whichweregivenmeonthebreastandbackatthesametime。Hethenbaredhisbosomformetoreturnthecompliment，whichbeingdone，heseemedhighlypleased。Thelanguageofthesepeople，accordingtoournotions，scarcelydeservestobecalledarticulate。CaptainCookhascomparedittoamanclearinghisthroat，butcertainlynoEuropeaneverclearedhisthroatwithsomanyhoarse，guttural，andclickingsounds。
Theyareexcellentmimics：asoftenaswecoughedoryawned，ormadeanyoddmotion，theyimmediatelyimitatedus。Someofourpartybegantosquintandlookawry；butoneoftheyoungFuegians(whosewholefacewaspaintedblack，exceptingawhitebandacrosshiseyes)succeededinmakingfarmorehideousgrimaces。Theycouldrepeatwithperfectcorrectnesseachwordinanysentenceweaddressedthem，andtheyrememberedsuchwordsforsometime。YetweEuropeansallknowhowdifficultitistodistinguishapartthesoundsinaforeignlanguage。Whichofus，forinstance，couldfollowanAmericanIndianthroughasentenceofmorethanthreewords？
Allsavagesappeartopossess，toanuncommondegree，thispowerofmimicry。
Iwastold，almostinthesamewords，ofthesameludicroushabitamongtheCaffres；theAustralians，likewise，havelongbeennotoriousforbeingabletoimitateanddescribethegaitofanyman，sothathemayberecognized。
Howcanthisfacultybeexplained？isitaconsequenceofthemorepractisedhabitsofperceptionandkeenersenses，commontoallmeninasavagestate，ascomparedwiththoselongcivilized？
Whenasongwasstruckupbyourparty，IthoughttheFuegianswouldhavefallendownwithastonishment。Withequalsurprisetheyviewedourdancing；butoneoftheyoungmen，whenasked，hadnoobjectiontoalittlewaltzing。LittleaccustomedtoEuropeansastheyappearedtobe，yettheyknewanddreadedourfire-arms；nothingwouldtemptthemtotakeagunintheirhands。Theybeggedforknives，callingthembytheSpanishword“cuchilla。”Theyexplainedalsowhattheywanted，byactingasiftheyhadapieceofblubberintheirmouth，andthenpretendingtocutinsteadoftearit。
IhavenotasyetnoticedtheFuegianswhomwehadonboard。DuringtheformervoyageoftheAdventureandBeaglein1826to1830，CaptainFitzRoyseizedonapartyofnatives，ashostagesforthelossofaboat，whichhadbeenstolen，tothegreatjeopardyofapartyemployedonthesurvey；andsomeofthesenatives，aswellasachildwhomheboughtforapearl-button，hetookwithhimtoEngland，determiningtoeducatethemandinstructtheminreligionathisownexpense。Tosettlethesenativesintheirowncountry，wasonechiefinducementtoCaptainFitzRoytoundertakeourpresentvoyage；andbeforetheAdmiraltyhadresolvedtosendoutthisexpedition，CaptainFitzRoyhadgenerouslycharteredavessel，andwouldhimselfhavetakenthemback。Thenativeswereaccompaniedbyamissionary，R。Matthews；ofwhomandofthenatives，CaptainFitzRoyhaspublishedafullandexcellentaccount。Twomen，oneofwhomdiedinEnglandofthesmall-pox，aboyandalittlegirl，wereoriginallytaken；andwehadnowonboard，YorkMinster，JemmyButton(whosenameexpresseshispurchase-money)，andFuegiaBasket。YorkMinsterwasafull-grown，short，thick，powerfulman：hisdispositionwasreserved，taciturn，morose，andwhenexcitedviolentlypassionate；hisaffectionswereverystrongtowardsafewfriendsonboard；
hisintellectgood。JemmyButtonwasauniversalfavourite，butlikewisepassionate；theexpressionofhisfaceatonceshowedhisnicedisposition。
Hewasmerryandoftenlaughed，andwasremarkablysympatheticwithanyoneinpain：whenthewaterwasrough，Iwasoftenalittlesea-sick，andheusedtocometomeandsayinaplaintivevoice，“Poor，poorfellow！”
butthenotion，afterhisaquaticlife，ofamanbeingsea-sick，wastooludicrous，andhewasgenerallyobligedtoturnononesidetohideasmileorlaugh，andthenhewouldrepeathis“Poor，poorfellow！”Hewasofapatrioticdisposition；andhelikedtopraisehisowntribeandcountry，inwhichhetrulysaidtherewere“plentyoftrees。”andheabusedalltheothertribes：hestoutlydeclaredthattherewasnoDevilinhisland。
Jemmywasshort，thick，andfat，butvainofhispersonalappearance；heusedalwaystoweargloves，hishairwasneatlycut，andhewasdistressedifhiswell-polishedshoesweredirtied。Hewasfondofadmiringhimselfinalookingglass；andamerry-facedlittleIndianboyfromtheRioNegro，whomwehadforsomemonthsonboard，soonperceivedthis，andusedtomockhim：Jemmy，whowasalwaysratherjealousoftheattentionpaidtothislittleboy，didnotatalllikethis，andusedtosay，withratheracontemptuoustwistofhishead，“Toomuchskylark。”Itseemsyetwonderfultome，whenIthinkoverallhismanygoodqualitiesthatheshouldhavebeenofthesamerace，anddoubtlesspartakenofthesamecharacter，withthemiserable，degradedsavageswhomwefirstmethere。Lastly，FuegiaBasketwasanice，modest，reservedyounggirl，witharatherpleasingbutsometimessullenexpression，andveryquickinlearninganything，especiallylanguages。ThissheshowedinpickingupsomePortugueseandSpanish，whenleftonshoreforonlyashorttimeatRiodeJaneiroandMonteVideo，andinherknowledgeofEnglish。YorkMinsterwasveryjealousofanyattentionpaidtoher；foritwasclearhedeterminedtomarryherassoonastheyweresettledonshore。
AlthoughallthreecouldbothspeakandunderstandagooddealofEnglish，itwassingularlydifficulttoobtainmuchinformationfromthem，concerningthehabitsoftheircountrymen；thiswaspartlyowingtotheirapparentdifficultyinunderstandingthesimplestalternative。Everyoneaccustomedtoveryyoungchildren，knowshowseldomonecangetananswereventososimpleaquestionaswhetherathingisblackorwhite；theideaofblackorwhiteseemsalternatelytofilltheirminds。SoitwaswiththeseFuegians，andhenceitwasgenerallyimpossibletofindout，bycrossquestioning，whetheronehadrightlyunderstoodanythingwhichtheyhadasserted。Theirsightwasremarkablyacute；itiswellknownthatsailors，fromlongpractice，canmakeoutadistantobjectmuchbetterthanalandsman；butbothYorkandJemmyweremuchsuperiortoanysailoronboard：severaltimestheyhavedeclaredwhatsomedistantobjecthasbeen，andthoughdoubtedbyeveryone，theyhaveprovedright，whenithasbeenexaminedthroughatelescope。Theywerequiteconsciousofthispower；andJemmy，whenhehadanylittlequarrelwiththeofficeronwatch，wouldsay，“Meseeship，menotell。”
Itwasinterestingtowatchtheconductofthesavages，whenwelanded，towardsJemmyButton：theyimmediatelyperceivedthedifferencebetweenhimandourselves，andheldmuchconversationonewithanotheronthesubject。
TheoldmanaddressedalongharanguetoJemmy，whichitseemswastoinvitehimtostaywiththemButJemmyunderstoodverylittleoftheirlanguage，andwas，moreover，thoroughlyashamedofhiscountrymen。WhenYorkMinsterafterwardscameonshore，theynoticedhiminthesameway，andtoldhimheoughttoshave；yethehadnottwentydwarfhairsonhisface，whilstweallworeouruntrimmedbeards。Theyexaminedthecolourofhisskin，andcompareditwithours。Oneofourarmsbeingbared，theyexpressedtheliveliestsurpriseandadmirationatitswhiteness，justinthesamewayinwhichIhaveseentheourangoutangdoattheZoologicalGardens。
Wethoughtthattheymistooktwoorthreeoftheofficers，whowererathershorterandfairer，thoughadornedwithlargebeards，fortheladiesofourparty。ThetallestamongsttheFuegianswasevidentlymuchpleasedathisheightbeingnoticed。Whenplacedbacktobackwiththetallestoftheboat’screw，hetriedhisbesttoedgeonhigherground，andtostandontiptoe。Heopenedhismouthtoshowhisteeth，andturnedhisfaceforasideview；andallthiswasdonewithsuchalacrity，thatI
daresayhethoughthimselfthehandsomestmaninTierradelFuego。Afterourfirstfeelingofgraveastonishmentwasover，nothingcouldbemoreludicrousthantheoddmixtureofsurpriseandimitationwhichthesesavageseverymomentexhibited。
ThenextdayIattemptedtopenetratesomewayintothecountry。TierradelFuegomaybedescribedasamountainousland，partlysubmergedinthesea，sothatdeepinletsandbaysoccupytheplacewherevalleysshouldexist。Themountainsides，exceptontheexposedwesterncoast，arecoveredfromthewater’sedgeupwardsbyonegreatforest。Thetreesreachtoanelevationofbetween1000and1500feet，andaresucceededbyabandofpeat，withminutealpineplants；andthisagainissucceededbythelineofperpetualsnow，which，accordingtoCaptainKing，intheStraitofMagellandescendstobetween3000and4000feet。Tofindanacreoflevellandinanypartofthecountryismostrare。IrecollectonlyonelittleflatpiecenearPortFamine，andanotherofratherlargerextentnearGoereeRoad。Inbothplaces，andeverywhereelse，thesurfaceiscoveredbyathickbedofswampypeat。Evenwithintheforest，thegroundisconcealedbyamassofslowlyputrefyingvegetablematter，which，frombeingsoakedwithwater，yieldstothefoot。
