CHAPTERLIX。
ForatimeIwroteliteraryscreedsfortheGoldenEra。C。H。WebbhadestablishedaveryexcellentliteraryweeklycalledtheCalifornian，buthighmeritwasnoguarantyofsuccess；itlanguished，andhesoldouttothreeprinters，andBretHartebecameeditorat$20aweek，andIwasemployedtocontributeanarticleaweekat$12。Butthejournalstilllanguished，andtheprinterssoldouttoCaptainOgden，arichmanandapleasantgentlemanwhochosetoamusehimselfwithsuchanexpensiveluxurywithoutmuchcaringaboutthecostofit。Whenhegrewtiredofthenovelty，here-soldtotheprinters，thepaperpresentlydiedapeacefuldeath，andIwasoutofworkagain。IwouldnotmentionthesethingsbutforthefactthattheysoaptlyillustratetheupsanddownsthatcharacterizelifeonthePacificcoast。Amancouldhardlystumbleintosuchavarietyofqueervicissitudesinanyothercountry。
Fortwomonthsmysoleoccupationwasavoidingacquaintances；forduringthattimeIdidnotearnapenny，orbuyanarticleofanykind，orpaymyboard。Ibecameaveryadeptat“slinking。”Islunkfrombackstreettobackstreet，Islunkawayfromapproachingfacesthatlookedfamiliar，Islunktomymeals，atethemhumblyandwithamuteapologyforeverymouthfulIrobbedmygenerouslandladyof，andatmidnight，afterwanderingsthatwerebutslinkingsawayfromcheerfulnessandlight，I
slunktomybed。Ifeltmeaner，andlowlierandmoredespicablethantheworms。DuringallthistimeIhadbutonepieceofmoney——asilvertencentpiece——andIheldtoitandwouldnotspenditonanyaccount，lesttheconsciousnesscomingstronguponmethatIwasentirelypenniless，mightsuggestsuicide。IhadpawnedeverythingbuttheclothesIhadon；soIclungtomydimedesperately，tillitwassmoothwithhandling。
However，Iamforgetting。Ididhaveoneotheroccupationbesidethatof“slinking。”Itwastheentertainingofacollector(andbeingentertainedbyhim，)whohadinhishandstheVirginiabanker\'sbillforforty-sixdollarswhichIhadloanedmyschoolmate，the“Prodigal。”Thismanusedtocallregularlyonceaweekanddunme，andsometimesoftener。
Hediditfromsheerforceofhabit，forheknewhecouldgetnothing。
Hewouldgetouthisbill，calculatetheinterestforme，atfivepercentamonth，andshowmeclearlythattherewasnoattemptatfraudinitandnomistakes；andthenplead，andargueanddunwithallhismightforanysum——anylittletrifle——evenadollar——evenhalfadollar，onaccount。Thenhisdutywasaccomplishedandhisconsciencefree。Heimmediatelydroppedthesubjecttherealways；gotoutacoupleofcigarsanddivided，puthisfeetinthewindow，andthenwewouldhavealong，luxurioustalkabouteverythingandeverybody，andhewouldfurnishmeaworldofcuriousdunningadventuresoutoftheamplestoreinhismemory。
Byandbyhewouldclaphishatonhishead，shakehandsandsaybriskly:
“Well，businessisbusiness——can\'tstaywithyoualways！“——andwasoffinasecond。
Theideaofpiningforadun！AndyetIusedtolongforhimtocome，andwouldgetasuneasyasanymotherifthedaywentbywithouthisvisit，whenIwasexpectinghim。Buthenevercollectedthatbill，atlastnoranypartofit。Ilivedtopayittothebankermyself。
Miserylovescompany。Nowandthenatnight，inout-of-theway，dimlylightedplaces，Ifoundmyselfhappeningonanotherchildofmisfortune。
Helookedsoseedyandforlorn，sohomelessandfriendlessandforsaken，thatIyearnedtowardhimasabrother。Iwantedtoclaimkinshipwithhimandgoaboutandenjoyourwretchednesstogether。Thedrawingtowardeachothermusthavebeenmutual；atanyratewegottofallingtogetheroftener，thoughstillseeminglybyaccident；andalthoughwedidnotspeakorevinceanyrecognition，Ithinkthedullanxietypassedoutofbothofuswhenwesaweachother，andthenforseveralhourswewouldidlealongcontentedly，wideapart，andglancingfurtivelyinathomelightsandfiresidegatherings，outofthenightshadows，andverymuchenjoyingourdumbcompanionship。
Finallywespoke，andwereinseparableafterthat。Forourwoeswereidentical，almost。Hehadbeenareportertoo，andlosthisberth，andthiswashisexperience，asnearlyasIcanrecollectit。Afterlosinghisberthhehadgonedown，down，down，withneverahalt:fromaboardinghouseonRussianHilltoaboardinghouseinKearneystreet；
fromthencetoDupont；fromthencetoalowsailorden；andfromthencetolodgingsingoodsboxesandemptyhogsheadsnearthewharves。Then；
forawhile，hehadgainedameagrelivingbysewingupburstedsacksofgrainonthepiers；whenthatfailedhehadfoundfoodhereandthereaschancethrewitinhisway。Hehadceasedtoshowhisfaceindaylight，now，forareporterknowseverybody，richandpoor，highandlow，andcannotwellavoidfamiliarfacesinthebroadlightofday。
ThismendicantBlucher——Icallhimthatforconvenience——wasasplendidcreature。Hewasfullofhope，pluckandphilosophy；hewaswellreadandamanofcultivatedtaste；hehadabrightwitandwasamasterofsatire；hiskindlinessandhisgenerousspiritmadehimroyalinmyeyesandchangedhiscurb-stoneseattoathroneandhisdamagedhattoacrown。
Hehadanadventure，once，whichsticksfastinmymemoryasthemostpleasantlygrotesquethatevertouchedmysympathies。Hehadbeenwithoutapennyfortwomonths。Hehadshirkedaboutobscurestreets，amongfriendlydimlights，tillthethinghadbecomesecondnaturetohim。Butatlasthewasdrivenabroadindaylight。Thecausewassufficient；hehadnottastedfoodforforty-eighthours，andhecouldnotendurethemiseryofhishungerinidlehiding。Hecamealongabackstreet，gloweringattheloavesinbake-shopwindows，andfeelingthathecouldtradehislifeawayforamorseltoeat。Thesightofthebreaddoubledhishunger；butitwasgoodtolookatit，anyhow，andimaginewhatonemightdoifoneonlyhadit。
Presently，inthemiddleofthestreethesawashiningspot——lookedagain——didnot，andcouldnot，believehiseyes——turnedaway，totrythem，thenlookedagain。Itwasaverity——novain，hunger-inspireddelusion——itwasasilverdime！
Hesnatchedit——gloatedoverit；doubtedit——bitit——founditgenuine——
chokedhisheartdown，andsmotheredahalleluiah。Thenhelookedaround——sawthatnobodywaslookingathim——threwthedimedownwhereitwasbefore——walkedawayafewsteps，andapproachedagain，pretendinghedidnotknowitwasthere，sothathecouldre-enjoytheluxuryoffindingit。Hewalkedaroundit，viewingitfromdifferentpoints；thensaunteredaboutwithhishandsinhispockets，lookingupatthesignsandnowandthenglancingatitandfeelingtheoldthrillagain。
Finallyhetookitup，andwentaway，fondlingitinhispocket。Heidledthroughunfrequentedstreets，stoppingindoorwaysandcornerstotakeitoutandlookatit。Byandbyhewenthometohislodgings——anemptyqueens-warehogshead，——andemployedhimselftillnighttryingtomakeuphismindwhattobuywithit。Butitwashardtodo。Togetthemostforitwastheidea。HeknewthatattheMiner\'sRestauranthecouldgetaplateofbeansandapieceofbreadfortencents；orafish-
ballandsomefewtrifles，buttheygave“nobreadwithonefish-ball“
there。AtFrenchPete\'shecouldgetavealcutlet，plain，andsomeradishesandbread，fortencents；oracupofcoffee——apintatleast——
andasliceofbread；buttheslicewasnotthickenoughbytheeighthofaninch，andsometimestheywerestillmorecriminalthanthatinthecuttingofit。Atseveno\'clockhishungerwaswolfish；andstillhismindwasnotmadeup。HeturnedoutandwentupMerchantstreet，stillciphering；andchewingabitofstick，asisthewayofstarvingmen。
HepassedbeforethelightsofMartin\'srestaurant，themostaristocraticinthecity，andstopped。Itwasaplacewherehehadoftendined，inbetterdays，andMartinknewhimwell。Standingaside，justoutoftherangeofthelight，heworshipedthequailsandsteaksintheshowwindow，andimaginedthatmaybethefairytimeswerenotgoneyetandsomeprinceindisguisewouldcomealongpresentlyandtellhimtogointhereandtakewhateverhewanted。Hechewedhisstickwithahungryinterestashewarmedtohissubject。Justatthisjuncturehewasconsciousofsomeoneathisside，sureenough；andthenafingertouchedhisarm。Helookedup，overhisshoulder，andsawanapparition——averyallegoryofHunger！Itwasamansixfeethigh，gaunt，unshaven，hungwithrags；withahaggardfaceandsunkencheeks，andeyesthatpleadedpiteously。Thisphantomsaid:
“Comewithme——please。”
HelockedhisarminBlucher\'sandwalkedupthestreettowherethepassengerswerefewandthelightnotstrong，andthenfacingabout，putouthishandsinabeseechingway，andsaid:
“Friend——stranger——lookatme！Lifeiseasytoyou——yougoabout，placidandcontent，asIdidonce，inmyday——youhavebeeninthere，andeatenyoursumptuoussupper，andpickedyourteeth，andhummedyourtune，andthoughtyourpleasantthoughts，andsaidtoyourselfitisagoodworld——
butyou\'veneversuffered！Youdon\'tknowwhattroubleis——youdon\'tknowwhatmiseryis——norhunger！Lookatme！Strangerhavepityonapoorfriendless，homelessdog！AsGodismyjudge，Ihavenottastedfoodforeightandfortyhours！——lookinmyeyesandseeifIlie！Givemetheleasttrifleintheworldtokeepmefromstarving——anything——
twenty-fivecents！Doit，stranger——doit，please。Itwillbenothingtoyou，butlifetome。Doit，andIwillgodownonmykneesandlickthedustbeforeyou！Iwillkissyourfootprints——Iwillworshiptheverygroundyouwalkon！Onlytwenty-fivecents！Iamfamishing——
perishing——starvingbyinches！ForGod\'ssakedon\'tdesertme！“
Blucherwasbewildered——andtouched，too——stirredtothedepths。Hereflected。Thoughtagain。Thenanideastruckhim，andhesaid:
“Comewithme。”
Hetooktheoutcast\'sarm，walkedhimdowntoMartin\'srestaurant，seatedhimatamarbletable，placedthebilloffarebeforehim，andsaid:
“Orderwhatyouwant，friend。Chargeittome，Mr。Martin。”
“Allright，Mr。Blucher，“saidMartin。
ThenBluchersteppedbackandleanedagainstthecounterandwatchedthemanstowawaycargoaftercargoofbuckwheatcakesatseventy-fivecentsaplate；cupaftercupofcoffee，andporterhousesteaksworthtwodollarsapiece；andwhensixdollarsandahalf\'sworthofdestructionhadbeenaccomplished，andthestranger\'shungerappeased，BlucherwentdowntoFrenchPete\'s，boughtavealcutletplain，asliceofbread，andthreeradishes，withhisdime，andsettoandfeastedlikeaking！
Taketheepisodeallaround，itwasasoddasanythatcanbeculledfromthemyriadcuriositiesofCalifornianlife，perhaps。
CHAPTERLX。
Byandby，anoldfriendofmine，aminer，camedownfromoneofthedecayedminingcampsofTuolumne，California，andIwentbackwithhim。
Welivedinasmallcabinonaverdanthillside，andtherewerenotfiveothercabinsinviewoverthewideexpanseofhillandforest。Yetaflourishingcityoftwoorthreethousandpopulationhadoccupiedthisgrassydeadsolitudeduringtheflushtimesoftwelveorfifteenyearsbefore，andwhereourcabinstoodhadoncebeentheheartoftheteeminghive，thecentreofthecity。Whentheminesgaveoutthetownfellintodecay，andinafewyearswhollydisappeared——streets，dwellings，shops，everything——andleftnosign。Thegrassyslopeswereasgreenandsmoothanddesolateoflifeasiftheyhadneverbeendisturbed。Themerehandfulofminersstillremaining，hadseenthetownspringupspread，growandflourishinitspride；andtheyhadseenitsickenanddie，andpassawaylikeadream。Withittheirhopeshaddied，andtheirzestoflife。Theyhadlongagoresignedthemselvestotheirexile，andceasedtocorrespondwiththeirdistantfriendsorturnlongingeyestowardtheirearlyhomes。Theyhadacceptedbanishment，forgottentheworldandbeenforgottenoftheworld。Theywerefarfromtelegraphsandrailroads，andtheystood，asitwere，inalivinggrave，deadtotheeventsthatstirredtheglobe\'sgreatpopulations，deadtothecommoninterestsofmen，isolatedandoutcastfrombrotherhoodwiththeirkind。
Itwasthemostsingular，andalmostthemosttouchingandmelancholyexilethatfancycanimagine——Oneofmyassociatesinthislocality，fortwoorthreemonths，wasamanwhohadhadauniversityeducation；butnowforeighteenyearshehaddecayedtherebyinches，abearded，rough-
clad，clay-stainedminer，andattimes，amonghissighingsandsoliloquizings，heunconsciouslyinterjectedvaguelyrememberedLatinandGreeksentences——deadandmustytongues，meetvehiclesforthethoughtsofonewhosedreamswereallofthepast，whoselifewasafailure；atiredman，burdenedwiththepresent，andindifferenttothefuture；amanwithoutties，hopes，interests，waitingforrestandtheend。
InthatonelittlecornerofCaliforniaisfoundaspeciesofminingwhichisseldomornevermentionedinprint。Itiscalled“pocketmining“andIamnotawarethatanyofitisdoneoutsideofthatlittlecorner。Thegoldisnotevenlydistributedthroughthesurfacedirt，asinordinaryplacermines，butiscollectedinlittlespots，andtheyareverywideapartandexceedinglyhardtofind，butwhenyoudofindoneyoureaparichandsuddenharvest。Therearenotnowmorethantwentypocketminersinthatentirelittleregion。IthinkIknoweveryoneofthempersonally。Ihaveknownoneofthemtohuntpatientlyaboutthehill-sideseverydayforeightmonthswithoutfindinggoldenoughtomakeasnuff-box——hisgrocerybillrunninguprelentlesslyallthetime——andthenfindapocketandtakeoutofittwothousanddollarsintwodipsofhisshovel。Ihaveknownhimtotakeoutthreethousanddollarsintwohours，andgoandpayupeverycentofhisindebtedness，thenenteronadazzlingspreethatfinishedthelastofhistreasurebeforethenightwasgone。Andthenextdayheboughthisgroceriesoncreditasusual，andshoulderedhispanandshovelandwentofftothehillshuntingpocketsagainhappyandcontent。Thisisthemostfascinatingofallthedifferentkindsofmining，andfurnishesaveryhandsomepercentageofvictimstothelunaticasylum。
Pockethuntingisaningeniousprocess。Youtakeaspadefulofearthfromthehill-sideandputitinalargetinpananddissolveandwashitgraduallyawaytillnothingisleftbutateaspoonfuloffinesediment。
Whatevergoldwasinthatearthhasremained，because，beingtheheaviest，ithassoughtthebottom。Amongthesedimentyouwillfindhalfadozenyellowparticlesnolargerthanpin-heads。Youaredelighted。Youmoveofftoonesideandwashanotherpan。Ifyoufindgoldagain，youmovetoonesidefurther，andwashathirdpan。Ifyoufindnogoldthistime，youaredelightedagain，becauseyouknowyouareontherightscent。
Youlayanimaginaryplan，shapedlikeafan，withitshandleupthehill——forjustwheretheendofthehandleis，youarguethattherichdepositlieshidden，whosevagrantgrainsofgoldhaveescapedandbeenwasheddownthehill，spreadingfartherandfartherapartastheywandered。Andsoyouproceedupthehill，washingtheearthandnarrowingyourlineseverytimetheabsenceofgoldinthepanshowsthatyouareoutsidethespreadofthefan；andatlast，twentyyardsupthehillyourlineshaveconvergedtoapoint——asinglefootfromthatpointyoucannotfindanygold。Yourbreathcomesshortandquick，youarefeverishwithexcitement；thedinner-bellmayringitsclapperoff，youpaynoattention；friendsmaydie，weddingstranspire，housesburndown，theyarenothingtoyou；yousweatanddiganddelvewithafranticinterest——andallatonceyoustrikeit！Upcomesaspadefulofearthandquartzthatisalllovelywithsoiledlumpsandleavesandspraysofgold。Sometimesthatonespadefulisall——$500。Sometimesthenestcontains$10，000，andittakesyouthreeorfourdaystogetitallout。
Thepocket-minerstellofonenestthatyielded$60，000andtwomenexhausteditintwoweeks，andthensoldthegroundfor$10，000toapartywhonevergot$300outofitafterward。
Thehogsaregoodpockethunters。Allthesummertheyrootaroundthebushes，andturnupathousandlittlepilesofdirt，andthentheminerslongfortherains；fortherainsbeatupontheselittlepilesandwashthemdownandexposethegold，possiblyrightoverapocket。Twopocketswerefoundinthiswaybythesamemaninoneday。Onehad$5，000initandtheother$8，000。Thatmancouldappreciateit，forhehadn\'thadacentforaboutayear。
InTuolumnelivedtwominerswhousedtogototheneighboringvillageintheafternoonandreturneverynightwithhouseholdsupplies。Partofthedistancetheytraversedatrail，andnearlyalwayssatdowntorestonagreatboulderthatlaybesidethepath。Inthecourseofthirteenyearstheyhadwornthatbouldertolerablysmooth，sittingonit。ByandbytwovagrantMexicanscamealongandoccupiedtheseat。Theybegantoamusethemselvesbychippingoffflakesfromtheboulderwithasledge-
hammer。Theyexaminedoneoftheseflakesandfounditrichwithgold。
Thatboulderpaidthem$800afterward。Buttheaggravatingcircumstancewasthatthese“Greasers“knewthattheremustbemoregoldwherethatbouldercamefrom，andsotheywentpanningupthehillandfoundwhatwasprobablytherichestpocketthatregionhasyetproduced。Ittookthreemonthstoexhaustit，andityielded$120，000。ThetwoAmericanminerswhousedtositontheboulderarepooryet，andtheytaketurnaboutingettingupearlyinthemorningtocursethoseMexicans——andwhenitcomesdowntopureornamentalcursing，thenativeAmericanisgiftedabovethesonsofmen。
Ihavedweltatsomelengthuponthismatterofpocketminingbecauseitisasubjectthatisseldomreferredtoinprint，andthereforeIjudgedthatitwouldhaveforthereaderthatinterestwhichnaturallyattachestonovelty。
CHAPTERLXI。
Oneofmycomradesthere——anotherofthosevictimsofeighteenyearsofunrequitedtoilandblightedhopes——wasoneofthegentlestspiritsthateverboreitspatientcrossinawearyexile:graveandsimpleDickBaker，pocket-minerofDead-HouseGulch——Hewasforty-six，grayasarat，earnest，thoughtful，slenderlyeducated，slouchilydressedandclay-
soiled，buthisheartwasfinermetalthananygoldhisshoveleverbroughttolight——thanany，indeed，thateverwasminedorminted。
Wheneverhewasoutofluckandalittledown-hearted，hewouldfalltomourningoverthelossofawonderfulcatheusedtoown(forwherewomenandchildrenarenot，menofkindlyimpulsestakeupwithpets，fortheymustlovesomething)。Andhealwaysspokeofthestrangesagacityofthatcatwiththeairofamanwhobelievedinhissecretheartthattherewassomethinghumanaboutit——maybeevensupernatural。
Iheardhimtalkingaboutthisanimalonce。Hesaid:
“Gentlemen，Iusedtohaveacathere，bythenameofTomQuartz，whichyou\'datookaninterestinIreckon——mostanybodywould。Ihadhimhereeightyear——andhewastheremarkablestcatIeversee。HewasalargegrayoneoftheTomspecie，an\'hehadmorehard，natchralsensethananymaninthiscamp——\'n\'apowerofdignity——hewouldn\'tlettheGov\'nerofCalifornybefamiliarwithhim。Heneverketchedaratinhislife——\'pearedtobeaboveit。Henevercaredfornothingbutmining。
Heknowedmoreaboutmining，thatcatdid，thananymanIever，eversee。
Youcouldn\'ttellhimnoth\'n\'boutplacerdiggin\'s——\'n\'asforpocketmining，whyhewasjustbornforit。
Hewoulddigoutaftermean\'Jimwhenwewentoverthehillsprospect\'n\'，andhewouldtrotalongbehindusforasmuchasfivemile，ifwewentsofur。An\'hehadthebestjudgmentaboutminingground——whyyouneverseeanythinglikeit。Whenwewenttowork，he\'dscatteraglancearound，\'n\'ifhedidn\'tthinkmuchoftheindications，hewouldgivealookasmuchastosay，\'Well，I\'llhavetogetyoutoexcuseme，\'
\'n\'withoutanotherwordhe\'dhystehisnoseintotheair\'n\'shoveforhome。Butifthegroundsuitedhim，hewouldlaylow\'n\'keepdarktillthefirstpanwaswashed，\'n\'thenhewouldsidleup\'n\'takealook，an\'
iftherewasaboutsixorsevengrainsofgoldhewassatisfied——hedidn\'twantnobetterprospect\'n\'that——\'n\'thenhewouldlaydownonourcoatsandsnorelikeasteamboattillwe\'dstruckthepocket，an\'
thengetup\'n\'superintend。Hewasnearlylightnin\'onsuperintending。
“Well，byean\'bye，upcomesthisyerquartzexcitement。Everybodywasintoit——everybodywaspick\'n\'\'n\'blast\'n\'insteadofshovelin\'dirtonthehillside——everybodywasput\'n\'downashaftinsteadofscrapin\'thesurface。Noth\'n\'woulddoJim，butwemusttackletheledges，too，\'n\'
sowedid。Wecommencedput\'n\'downashaft，\'n\'TomQuartzhebegintowonderwhatintheDickensitwasallabout。Hehadn\'teverseenanymininglikethatbefore，\'n\'hewasallupset，asyoumaysay——hecouldn\'tcometoarightunderstandingofitnoway——itwastoomanyforhim。Hewasdownonit，too，youbetyou——hewasdownonitpowerful——
\'n\'alwaysappearedtoconsideritthecussedestfoolishnessout。Butthatcat，youknow，wasalwaysaginnewfangledarrangements——somehowhenevercouldabide\'em。Youknowhowitiswitholdhabits。Butbyan\'byTomQuartzbegintogitsortofreconciledalittle，thoughhenevercouldaltogetherunderstandthateternalsinkin\'ofashaftan\'neverpannin\'outanything。Atlasthegottocomin\'downintheshaft，hisself，totrytocipheritout。An\'whenhe\'dgittheblues，\'n\'feelkindo\'scruffy，\'n\'aggravated\'n\'disgusted——knowin\'ashedid，thatthebillswasrunnin\'upallthetimean\'wewarn\'tmakin\'acent——hewouldcurluponagunnysackinthecorneran\'gotosleep。Well，onedaywhentheshaftwasdownabouteightfoot，therockgotsohardthatwehadtoputinablast——thefirstblast\'n\'we\'deverdonesinceTomQuartzwasborn。An\'thenwelitthefuse\'n\'clumbout\'n\'gotoff\'boutfiftyyards——\'n\'forgot\'n\'leftTomQuartzsoundasleeponthegunnysack。
In\'boutaminuteweseenapuffofsmokebustupoutofthehole，\'n\'
theneverythingletgowithanawfulcrash，\'n\'aboutfourmilliontonofrocks\'n\'dirt\'n\'smoke\'n；splintersshotup\'boutamilean\'ahalfintotheair，an\'byGeorge，rightinthedeadcentreofitwasoldTomQuartzagoin\'endoverend，an\'asnortin\'an\'asneez\'n\'，an\'aclawin\'
an\'areachin\'forthingslikeallpossessed。Butitwarn\'tnouse，youknow，itwarn\'tnouse。An\'thatwasthelastweseeofhimforabouttwominutes\'n\'ahalf，an\'thenallofasuddenitbegintorainrocksandrubbage，an\'directlyhecomedownker-whopabouttenfootofff\'mwherewestoodWell，Ireckonhewasp\'rapstheorneriestlookin\'beastyoueversee。Oneearwassotbackonhisneck，\'n\'histailwasstoveup，\'n\'hiseye-winkerswasswingedoff，\'n\'hewasallblackedupwithpowderan\'smoke，an\'allsloppywithmud\'n\'slushf\'moneendtotheother。
Wellsir，itwarn\'tnousetotrytoapologize——wecouldn\'tsayaword。
Hetookasortofadisgustedlookathisself，\'n\'thenhelookedatus——
an\'itwasjustexactlythesameasifhehadsaid——\'Gents，maybeyouthinkit\'ssmarttotakeadvantageofacatthat\'ain\'thadnoexperienceofquartzminin\'，butIthinkdifferent\'——an\'thenheturnedonhisheel\'n\'marchedoffhomewithouteversayinganotherword。
“Thatwasjesthisstyle。An\'maybeyouwon\'tbelieveit，butafterthatyouneverseeacatsoprejudicedaginquartzminingaswhathewas。
An\'byan\'byewhenhedidgettogoin\'downintheshaftagin，you\'d\'abeenastonishedathissagacity。Theminutewe\'dtetchoffablast\'n\'
thefuse\'dbegintosizzle，he\'dgivealookasmuchastosay:\'Well，I\'llhavetogityoutoexcuseme，\'an\'itwassurpris\'n\'thewayhe\'dshinoutofthathole\'n\'gof\'ratree。Sagacity?Itain\'tnonameforit。\'Twasinspiration！“
Isaid，“Well，Mr。Baker，hisprejudiceagainstquartz-miningwasremarkable，consideringhowhecamebyit。Couldn\'tyouevercurehimofit?“
“Curehim！No！WhenTomQuartzwassotonce，hewasalwayssot——andyoumightablowedhimupasmuchasthreemilliontimes\'n\'you\'dneverabrokenhimofhiscussedprejudiceaginquartzmining。”
TheaffectionandthepridethatlitupBaker\'sfacewhenhedeliveredthistributetothefirmnessofhishumblefriendofotherdays，willalwaysbeavividmemorywithme。
Attheendoftwomonthswehadnever“struck“apocket。Wehadpannedupanddownthehillsidestilltheylookedplowedlikeafield；wecouldhaveputinacropofgrain，then，buttherewouldhavebeennowaytogetittomarket。Wegotmanygood“prospects，“butwhenthegoldgaveoutinthepanandwedugdown，hopingandlonging，wefoundonlyemptiness——thepocketthatshouldhavebeentherewasasbarrenasourown——Atlastweshoulderedourpansandshovelsandstruckoutoverthehillstotrynewlocalities。WeprospectedaroundAngel\'sCamp，inCalaverascounty，duringthreeweeks，buthadnosuccess。Thenwewanderedonfootamongthemountains，sleepingunderthetreesatnight，fortheweatherwasmild，butstillweremainedascentlessasthelastroseofsummer。Thatisapoorjoke，butitisinpatheticharmonywiththecircumstances，sinceweweresopoorourselves。Inaccordancewiththecustomofthecountry，ourdoorhadalwaysstoodopenandourboardwelcometotrampingminers——theydriftedalongnearlyeveryday，dumpedtheirpaustshovelsbythethresholdandtook“potluck“withus——andnowonourowntrampweneverfoundcoldhospitality。
Ourwanderingswerewideandinmanydirections；andnowIcouldgivethereaderavividdescriptionoftheBigTreesandthemarvelsoftheYoSemite——butwhathasthisreaderdonetomethatIshouldpersecutehim?
Iwilldeliverhimintothehandsoflessconscientioustouristsandtakehisblessing。Letmebecharitable，thoughIfailinallvirtueselse。
Note:Someofthephrasesintheaboveareminingtechnicalities，purely，andmaybealittleobscuretothegeneralreader。In“placerdiggings“
thegoldisscatteredallthroughthesurfacedirt；in“pocket“diggingsitisconcentratedinonelittlespot；in“quartz“thegoldisinasolid，continuousveinofrock，enclosedbetweendistinctwallsofsomeotherkindofstone——andthisisthemostlaboriousandexpensiveofallthedifferentkindsofmining。“Prospecting“ishuntingfora“placer“；
“indications“aresignsofitspresence；“panningout“referstothewashingprocessbywhichthegrainsofgoldareseparatedfromthedirt；
a“prospect“iswhatonefindsinthefirstpanfulofdirt——anditsvaluedetermineswhetheritisagoodorabadprospect，andwhetheritisworthwhiletotarrythereorseekfurther。
CHAPTERLXII。
Afterathreemonths\'absence，IfoundmyselfinSanFranciscoagain，withoutacent。Whenmycreditwasaboutexhausted，(forIhadbecometoomeanandlazy，now，toworkonamorningpaper，andtherewerenovacanciesontheeveningjournals，)IwascreatedSanFranciscocorrespondentoftheEnterprise，andattheendoffivemonthsIwasoutofdebt，butmyinterestinmyworkwasgone；formycorrespondencebeingadailyone，withoutrestorrespite，Igotunspeakablytiredofit。
Iwantedanotherchange。Thevagabondinstinctwasstronguponme。
FortunefavoredandIgotanewberthandadelightfulone。ItwastogodowntotheSandwichIslandsandwritesomelettersfortheSacramentoUnion，anexcellentjournalandliberalwithemployees。
WesailedinthepropellerAjax，inthemiddleofwinter。Thealmanaccalleditwinter，distinctlyenough，buttheweatherwasacompromisebetweenspringandsummer。Sixdaysoutofport，itbecamesummeraltogether。Wehadsomethirtypassengers；amongthemacheerfulsoulbythenameofWilliams，andthreesea-wornoldwhaleshipcaptainsgoingdowntojointheirvessels。Theselatterplayedeuchreinthesmokingroomdayandnight，drankastonishingquantitiesofrawwhiskywithoutbeingintheleastaffectedbyit，andwerethehappiestpeopleIthinkIeversaw。Andthentherewas“theoldAdmiral——“aretiredwhaleman。
Hewasaroaring，terrificcombinationofwindandlightningandthunder，andearnest，whole-souledprofanity。Butneverthelesshewastender-
heartedasagirl。Hewasaraving，deafening，devastatingtyphoon，layingwastethecoweringseasbutwithanunvexedrefugeinthecentrewhereallcomersweresafeandatrest。Nobodycouldknowthe“Admiral“
withoutlikinghim；andinasuddenanddireemergencyIthinknofriendofhiswouldknowwhichtochoose——tobecursedbyhimorprayedforbyalessefficientperson。
HisTitleof“Admiral“wasmorestrictly“official“thananyeverwornbyanavalofficerbeforeorsince，perhaps——foritwasthevoluntaryofferingofawholenation，andcamedirectfromthepeoplethemselveswithoutanyintermediateredtape——thepeopleoftheSandwichIslands。
Itwasatitlethatcametohimfreightedwithaffection，andhonor，andappreciationofhisunpretendingmerit。AndintestimonyofthegenuinenessofthetitleitwaspubliclyordainedthatanexclusiveflagshouldbedevisedforhimandusedsolelytowelcomehiscomingandwavehimGod-speedinhisgoing。Fromthattimeforth，wheneverhisshipwassignaledintheoffing，orhecattedhisanchorandstoodouttosea，thatensignstreamedfromtheroyalhalliardsontheparliamenthouseandthenationliftedtheirhatstoitwithspontaneousaccord。
Yethehadneverfiredagunorfoughtabattleinhislife。WhenIknewhimonboardtheAjax，hewasseventy-twoyearsoldandhadplowedthesaltwatersixty-oneofthem。ForsixteenyearshehadgoneinandoutoftheharborofHonoluluincommandofawhaleship，andforsixteenmorehadbeencaptainofaSanFranciscoandSandwichIslandpassengerpacketandhadneverhadanaccidentorlostavessel。Thesimplenativesknewhimforafriendwhoneverfailedthem，andregardedhimaschildrenregardafather。ItwasadangerousthingtooppressthemwhentheroaringAdmiralwasaround。
TwoyearsbeforeIknewtheAdmiral，hehadretiredfromtheseaonacompetence，andhadswornacolossalnine-jointedoaththathewould“nevergowithinsmellingdistanceofthesaltwateragainaslongashelived。”Andhehadconscientiouslykeptit。Thatistosay，heconsideredhehadkeptit，anditwouldhavebeenmorethandangeroustosuggesttohim，eveninthegentlestway，thatmakingelevenlongseavoyages，asapassenger，duringthetwoyearsthathadtranspiredsincehe“retired，“wasonlykeepingthegeneralspiritofitandnotthestrictletter。
TheAdmiralknewonlyonenarrowlineofconducttopursueinanyandallcaseswheretherewasafight，andthatwastoshoulderhiswaystraightinwithoutaninquiryastotherightsorthemeritsofit，andtakethepartoftheweakerside——Andthiswasthereasonwhyhewasalwayssuretobepresentatthetrialofanyuniversallyexecratedcriminaltooppressandintimidatethejurywithavindictivepantomimeofwhathewoulddotothemifheevercaughtthemoutofthebox。Andthiswaswhyharriedcatsandoutlaweddogsthatknewhimconfidentlytooksanctuaryunderhischairintimeoftrouble。InthebeginninghewasthemostfranticandbloodthirstyUnionmanthatdrewbreathintheshadowoftheFlag；buttheinstanttheSouthernersbegantogodownbeforethesweepoftheNorthernarmies，heranuptheConfederatecolorsandfromthattimetilltheendwasarampantandinexorablesecessionist。
HehatedintemperancewithamoreuncompromisinganimositythananyindividualIhaveevermet，ofeithersex；andhewasnevertiredofstormingagainstitandbeseechingfriendsandstrangersaliketobewaryanddrinkwithmoderation。Andyetifanycreaturehadbeenguilelessenoughtointimatethathisabsorbingninegallonsof“straight“whiskeyduringourvoyagewasanyfractionshortofrigidorinflexibleabstemiousness，inthatself-samemomenttheoldmanwouldhavespunhimtotheuttermostpartsoftheearthinthewhirlwindofhiswrath。Mind，Iamnotsayinghiswhiskyeveraffectedhisheadorhislegs，foritdidnot，ineventheslightestdegree。Hewasacapaciouscontainer，buthedidnotholdenoughforthat。Hetookaleveltumblerfulofwhiskyeverymorningbeforeheputhisclotheson——“tosweetenhisbilgewater，“hesaid——Hetookanotherafterhegotthemostofhisclotheson，“tosettlehismindandgivehimhisbearings。”Hethenshaved，andputonacleanshirt；afterwhichherecitedtheLord\'sPrayerinafervent，thunderingbassthatshooktheshiptoherkelsonandsuspendedallconversationinthemaincabin。Then，atthisstage，beinginvariably“bythehead，“or“bythestern，“or“listedtoportorstarboard，“hetookonemoreto“puthimonanevenkeelsothathewouldmindhishellumandnotmissstaysandgoabout，everytimehecameupinthewind。”——Andnow，hisstate-roomdoorswungopenandthesunofhisbenignantfacebeamedredlyoutuponmenandwomenandchildren，andheroaredhis“Shipmetsa\'hoy！“inawaythatwascalculatedtowakethedeadandprecipitatethefinalresurrection；andforthhestrode，apicturetolookatandapresencetoenforceattention。Stalwartandportly；notagrayhair；broadbrimmedslouchhat；semi-sailortoggeryofbluenavyflannel——roomyandample；astatelyexpanseofshirt-frontandaliberalamountofblacksilkneck-clothtiedwithasailorknot；largechainandimposingsealsimpendingfromhisfob；awe-inspiringfeet，and“ahandlikethehandofProvidence，“ashiswhalingbrethrenexpressedit；wrist-bandsandsleevespushedbackhalfwaytotheelbow，outofrespectforthewarmweather，andexposinghairyarms，gaudywithredandblueanchors，ships，andgoddessesoflibertytattooedinIndiaink。
Butthesedetailswereonlysecondarymatters——hisfacewasthelodestonethatchainedtheeye。Itwasasultrydisk，glowingdeterminedlyoutthroughaweatherbeatenmaskofmahogany，andstuddedwithwarts，seamedwithscars，“blazed“alloverwithunfailingfreshslipsoftherazor；
andwithcheeryeyes，undershaggybrows，contemplatingtheworldfromoverthebackofagnarledcragofanosethatloomedvastandlonelyoutoftheundulatingimmensitythatspreadawayfromitsfoundations。
Athisheelsfriskedthedarlingofhisbachelorestate，histerrier“Fan，“acreaturenolargerthanasquirrel。Themainpartofhisdailylifewasoccupiedinlookingafter“Fan，“inamotherlyway，anddoctoringherforahundredailmentswhichexistedonlyinhisimagination。
TheAdmiralseldomreadnewspapers；andwhenhedidheneverbelievedanythingtheysaid。Hereadnothing，andbelievedinnothing，but“TheOldGuard，“asecessionperiodicalpublishedinNewYork。Hecarriedadozencopiesofitwithhim，always，andreferredtothemforallrequiredinformation。Ifitwasnotthere，hesuppliedithimself，outofabountifulfancy，inventinghistory，names，dates，andeverythingelsenecessarytomakehispointgoodinanargument。Consequentlyhewasaformidableantagonistinadispute。Wheneverheswungclearoftherecordandbegantocreatehistory，theenemywashelplessandhadtosurrender。Indeed，theenemycouldnotkeepfrombetrayingsomelittlesparkofindignationathismanufacturedhistory——andwhenitcametoindignation，thatwastheAdmiral\'svery“besthold。”Hewasalwaysreadyforapoliticalargument，andifnobodystartedonehewoulddoithimself。Withhisthirdretorthistemperwouldbegintorise，andwithinfiveminuteshewouldbeblowingagale，andwithinfifteenhissmoking-roomaudiencewouldbeutterlystormedawayandtheoldmanleftsolitaryandalone，bangingthetablewithhisfist，kickingthechairs，androaringahurricaneofprofanity。Itgotso，afterawhile，thatwhenevertheAdmiralapproached，withpoliticsinhiseye，thepassengerswoulddropoutwithquietaccord，afraidtomeethim；andhewouldcamponadesertedfield。
Buthefoundhismatchatlast，andbeforeafullcompany。Atonetimeoranother，everybodyhadenteredthelistsagainsthimandbeenrouted，exceptthequietpassengerWilliams。Hehadneverbeenabletogetanexpressionofopinionoutofhimonpolitics。Butnow，justastheAdmiraldrewnearthedoorandthecompanywereabouttoslipout，Williamssaid:
“Admiral，areyoucertainaboutthatcircumstanceconcerningtheclergymenyoumentionedtheotherday?“——referringtoapieceoftheAdmiral\'smanufacturedhistory。
Everyonewasamazedattheman\'srashness。Theideaofdeliberatelyinvitingannihilationwasathingincomprehensible。Theretreatcametoahalt；theneverybodysatdownagainwondering，toawaittheupshotofit。TheAdmiralhimselfwasassurprisedasanyone。Hepausedinthedoor，withhisredhandkerchiefhalfraisedtohissweatingface，andcontemplatedthedaringreptileinthecorner。
“Certainofit?AmIcertainofit?DoyouthinkI\'vebeenlyingaboutit?Whatdoyoutakemefor?Anybodythatdon\'tknowthatcircumstance，don\'tknowanything；achildoughttoknowit。Readupyourhistory！
Readitup——，anddon\'tcomeaskingamanifhe\'scertainaboutabitofABCstuffthattheverysouthernniggersknowallabout。”
HeretheAdmiral\'sfiresbegantowaxhot，theatmospherethickened，thecomingearthquakerumbled，hebegantothunderandlighten。Withinthreeminuteshisvolcanowasinfullirruptionandhewasdischargingflamesandashesofindignation，belchingblackvolumesoffoulhistoryaloft，andvomitingred-hottorrentsofprofanityfromhiscrater。MeantimeWilliamssatsilent，andapparentlydeeplyandearnestlyinterestedinwhattheoldmanwassaying。Byandby，whenthelullcame，hesaidinthemostdeferentialway，andwiththegratifiedairofamanwhohashadamysteryclearedupwhichhadbeenpuzzlinghimuncomfortably:
“NowIunderstandit。IalwaysthoughtIknewthatpieceofhistorywellenough，butwasstillafraidtotrustit，becausetherewasnotthatconvincingparticularityaboutitthatonelikestohaveinhistory；butwhenyoumentionedeveryname，theotherday，andeverydate，andeverylittlecircumstance，intheirjustorderandsequence，Isaidtomyself，thissoundssomethinglike——thisishistory——thisisputtingitinashapethatgivesamanconfidence；andIsaidtomyselfafterward，IwilljustasktheAdmiralifheisperfectlycertainaboutthedetails，andifheisIwillcomeoutandthankhimforclearingthismatterupforme。
AndthatiswhatIwanttodonow——foruntilyousetthatmatterrightitwasnothingbutjustaconfusioninmymind，withoutheadortailtoit。”
NobodyeversawtheAdmirallooksomollifiedbefore，andsopleased。
Nobodyhadeverreceivedhisbogushistoryasgospelbefore；itsgenuinenesshadalwaysbeencalledinquestioneitherbywordsorlooks；
butherewasamanthatnotonlyswalloweditalldown，butwasgratefulforthedose。Hewastakenaback；hehardlyknewwhattosay；evenhisprofanityfailedhim。Now，Williamscontinued，modestlyandearnestly:
“ButAdmiral，insayingthatthiswasthefirststonethrown，andthatthisprecipitatedthewar，youhaveoverlookedacircumstancewhichyouareperfectlyfamiliarwith，butwhichhasescapedyourmemory。NowI
grantyouthatwhatyouhavestatediscorrectineverydetail——towit:
thatonthe16thofOctober，1860，twoMassachusettsclergymen，namedWaiteandGranger，wentindisguisetothehouseofJohnMoody，inRockport，atdeadofnight，anddraggedforthtwosouthernwomenandtheirtwolittlechildren，andaftertarringandfeatheringthemconveyedthemtoBostonandburnedthemaliveintheStateHousesquare；andI
alsograntyourpropositionthatthisdeediswhatledtothesecessionofSouthCarolinaonthe20thofDecemberfollowing。Verywell。”[HerethecompanywerepleasantlysurprisedtohearWilliamsproceedtocomebackattheAdmiralwithhisowninvincibleweapon——clean，pure，manufacturedhistory，withoutawordoftruthinit。]“Verywell，Isay。
ButAdmiral，whyoverlooktheWillisandMorgancaseinSouthCarolina?
Youaretoowellinformedamannottoknowallaboutthatcircumstance。
Yourargumentsandyourconversationshaveshownyoutobeintimatelyconversantwitheverydetailofthisnationalquarrel。Youdevelopmattersofhistoryeverydaythatshowplainlythatyouarenosmattererinit，contenttonibbleaboutthesurface，butamanwhohassearchedthedepthsandpossessedyourselfofeverythingthathasabearinguponthegreatquestion。Therefore，letmejustrecalltoyourmindthatWillisandMorgancase——thoughIseebyyourfacethatthewholethingisalreadypassingthroughyourmemoryatthismoment。Onthe12thofAugust，1860，twomonthsbeforetheWaiteandGrangeraffair，twoSouthCarolinaclergymen，namedJohnH。MorganandWinthropL。Willis，oneaMethodistandtheotheranOldSchoolBaptist，disguisedthemselves，andwentatmidnighttothehouseofaplanternamedThompson——ArchibaldF。
Thompson，VicePresidentunderThomasJefferson，——andtookthence，atmidnight，hiswidowedaunt，(aNorthernwoman，)andheradoptedchild，anorphan——namedMortimerHighie，afflictedwithepilepsyandsufferingatthetimefromwhiteswellingononeofhislegs，andcompelledtowalkoncrutchesinconsequence；andthetwoministers，inspiteofthepleadingsofthevictims，draggedthemtothebush，tarredandfeatheredthem，andafterwardburnedthematthestakeinthecityofCharleston。Yourememberperfectlywellwhatastiritmade；yourememberperfectlywellthateventheCharlestonCourierstigmatizedtheactasbeingunpleasant，ofquestionablepropriety，andscarcelyjustifiable，andlikewisethatitwouldnotbematterofsurpriseifretaliationensued。Andyourememberalso，thatthisthingwasthecauseoftheMassachusettsoutrage。Who，indeed，werethetwoMassachusettsministers?andwhowerethetwoSouthernwomentheyburned?Idonotneedtoremindyou，Admiral，withyourintimateknowledgeofhistory，thatWaitewasthenephewofthewomanburnedinCharleston；thatGrangerwashercousinintheseconddegree，andthatthewomantheyburnedinBostonwasthewifeofJohnH。
Morgan，andthestilllovedbutdivorcedwifeofWinthropL。Willis。
Now，Admiral，itisonlyfairthatyoushouldacknowledgethatthefirstprovocationcamefromtheSouthernpreachersandthattheNorthernoneswerejustifiedinretaliating。Inyourargumentsyouneveryethaveshowntheleastdispositiontowithholdajustverdictorbeinanywiseunfair，whenauthoritativehistorycondemnedyourposition，andthereforeIhavenohesitationinaskingyoutotaketheoriginalblamefromtheMassachusettsministers，inthismatter，andtransferittotheSouthCarolinaclergymenwhereitjustlybelongs。”
TheAdmiralwasconquered。Thissweetspokencreaturewhoswallowedhisfraudulenthistoryasifitwerethebreadoflife；baskedinhisfuriousblasphemyasifitweregeneroussunshine；foundonlycalm，even-handedjusticeinhisrampartpartisanship；andfloodedhimwithinventedhistorysosugarcoatedwithflatteryanddeferencethattherewasnorejectingit，was“toomany“forhim。Hestammeredsomeawkward，profanesentencesaboutthe——WillisandMorganbusinesshavingescapedhismemory，butthathe“remembereditnow，“andthen，underpretenceofgivingFansomemedicineforanimaginarycough，drewoutofthebattleandwentaway，avanquishedman。Thencheersandlaughterwentup，andWilliams，theship\'sbenefactorwasahero。Thenewswentaboutthevessel，champagnewasordered，andenthusiasticreceptioninstitutedinthesmokingroom，andeverybodyflockedthithertoshakehandswiththeconqueror。Thewheelmansaidafterward，thattheAdmiralstoodupbehindthepilothouseand“rippedandcursedalltohimself“tillheloosenedthesmokestackguysandbecalmedthemainsail。
TheAdmiral\'spowerwasbroken。Afterthat，ifhebeganargument，somebodywouldbringWilliams，andtheoldmanwouldgrowweakandbegintoquietdownatonce。Andassoonashewasdone，Williamsinhisdulcet，insinuatingway，wouldinventsomehistory(referringforproof，totheoldman\'sownexcellentmemoryandtocopiesof“TheOldGuard“
knownnottobeinhispossession)thatwouldturnthetablescompletelyandleavetheAdmiralallabroadandhelpless。ByandbyhecametosodreadWilliamsandhisgildedtonguethathewouldstoptalkingwhenhesawhimapproach，andfinallyceasedtomentionpoliticsaltogether，andfromthattimeforwardtherewasentirepeaceandserenityintheship。
CHAPTERLXIII。
OnacertainbrightmorningtheIslandshoveinsight，lyinglowonthelonelysea，andeverybodyclimbedtotheupperdecktolook。Aftertwothousandmilesofwaterysolitudethevisionwasawelcomeone。Asweapproached，theimposingpromontoryofDiamondHeadroseupoutoftheoceanitsruggedfrontsoftenedbythehazydistance，andpresentlythedetailsofthelandbegantomakethemselvesmanifest:firstthelineofbeach；thentheplumedcoacoanuttreesofthetropics；thencabinsofthenatives；thenthewhitetownofHonolulu，saidtocontainbetweentwelveandfifteenthousandinhabitantsspreadoveradeadlevel；withstreetsfromtwentytothirtyfeetwide，solidandlevelasafloor，mostofthemstraightasalineandfewascrookedasacorkscrew。
ThefurtherItraveledthroughthetownthebetterIlikedit。Everysteprevealedanewcontrast——disclosedsomethingIwasunaccustomedto。
Inplaceofthegrandmud-coloredbrownfrontsofSanFrancisco，Isawdwellingsbuiltofstraw，adobies，andcream-coloredpebble-and-shell-
conglomeratedcoral，cutintooblongblocksandlaidincement；alsoagreatnumberofneatwhitecottages，withgreenwindow-shutters；inplaceoffrontyardslikebilliard-tableswithironfencesaroundthem，Isawthesehomessurroundedbyampleyards，thicklycladwithgreengrass，andshadedbytalltrees，throughwhosedensefoliagethesuncouldscarcelypenetrate；inplaceofthecustomarygeranium，callalily，etc。，languishingindustandgeneraldebility，Isawluxuriousbanksandthicketsofflowers，freshasameadowafterarain，andglowingwiththerichestdyes；inplaceofthedingyhorrorsofSanFrancisco\'spleasuregrove，the“Willows，“Isawhuge-bodied，wide-spreadingforesttrees，withstrangenamesandstrangerappearance——treesthatcastashadowlikeathunder-cloud，andwereabletostandalonewithoutbeingtiedtogreenpoles；inplaceofgoldfish，wigglingaroundinglassglobes，assumingcountlessshadesanddegreesofdistortionthroughthemagnifyinganddiminishingqualitiesoftheirtransparentprisonhouses，Isawcats——
Tom-cats，MaryAnncats，long-tailedcats，bob-tailedcats，blindcats，one-eyedcats，wall-eyedcats，cross-eyedcats，graycats，blackcats，whitecats，yellowcats，stripedcats，spottedcats，tamecats，wildcats，singedcats，individualcats，groupsofcats，platoonsofcats，companiesofcats，regimentsofcats，armiesofcats，multitudesofcats，millionsofcats，andallofthemsleek，fat，lazyandsoundasleep。
Ilookedonamultitudeofpeople，somewhite，inwhitecoats，vests，pantaloons，evenwhiteclothshoes，madesnowywithchalkdulylaidoneverymorning；butthemajorityofthepeoplewerealmostasdarkasnegroes——womenwithcomelyfeatures，fineblackeyes，roundedforms，incliningtothevoluptuous，cladinasinglebrightredorwhitegarmentthatfellfreeandunconfinedfromshouldertoheel，longblackhairfallingloose，gypsyhats，encircledwithwreathsofnaturalflowersofabrilliantcarminetint；plentyofdarkmeninvariouscostumes，andsomewithnothingonbutabatteredstove-pipehattiltedonthenose，andaveryscantbreech-clout；——certainsmoke-driedchildrenwereclothedinnothingbutsunshine——averyneatfittingandpicturesqueapparelindeed。
Inplaceofroughsandrowdiesstaringandblackguardingonthecorners，Isawlong-haired，saddle-coloredSandwichIslandmaidenssittingonthegroundintheshadeofcornerhouses，gazingindolentlyatwhateverorwhoeverhappenedalong；insteadofwretchedcobble-stonepavements，I
walkedonafirmfoundationofcoral，builtupfromthebottomoftheseabytheabsurdbutperseveringinsectofthatname，withalightlayeroflavaandcindersoverlyingthecoral，belchedupoutoffathomlessperditionlongagothroughthesearedandblackenedcraterthatstandsdeadandharmlessinthedistancenow；insteadofcrampedandcrowdedstreet-cars，Imetduskynativewomensweepingby，freeasthewind，onfleethorsesandastride，withgaudyriding-sashes，streaminglikebannersbehindthem；insteadofthecombinedstenchesofChinadomandBrannanstreetslaughter-houses，Ibreathedthebalmyfragranceofjessamine，oleander，andthePrideofIndia；inplaceofthehurryandbustleandnoisyconfusionofSanFrancisco，ImovedinthemidstofaSummercalmastranquilasdawnintheGardenofEden；inplaceoftheGoldenCity\'sskirtingsandhillsandtheplacidbay，Isawontheonesideaframe-workoftall，precipitousmountainscloseathand，cladinrefreshinggreen，andcleftbydeep，cool，chasm-likevalleys——andinfrontthegrandsweepoftheocean；abrilliant，transparentgreenneartheshore，boundandborderedbyalongwhitelineoffoamyspraydashingagainstthereef，andfurtheroutthedeadbluewaterofthedeepsea，fleckedwith“whitecaps，“andinthefarhorizonasingle，lonelysail——
amereaccent-marktoemphasizeaslumberouscalmandasolitudethatwerewithoutsoundorlimit。Whenthesunsunkdown——theoneintruderfromotherrealmsandpersistentinsuggestionsofthem——itwastrancedluxurytositintheperfumedairandforgetthattherewasanyworldbuttheseenchantedislands。
Itwassuchecstacytodream，anddream——tillyougotabite。
Ascorpionbite。Thenthefirstdutywastogetupoutofthegrassandkillthescorpion；andthenexttobathethebittenplacewithalcoholorbrandy；andthenexttoresolvetokeepoutofthegrassinfuture。Thencameanadjournmenttothebed-chamberandthepastimeofwritinguptheday\'sjournalwithonehandandthedestructionofmosquitoeswiththeother——awholecommunityofthemataslap。Then，observinganenemyapproaching，——ahairytarantulaonstilts——whynotsetthespittoononhim?Itisdone，andtheprojectingendsofhispawsgivealuminousideaofthemagnitudeofhisreach。Thentobedandbecomeapromenadeforacentipedewithforty-twolegsonasideandeveryfoothotenoughtoburnaholethrougharaw-hide。Moresoakingwithalcohol，andaresolutiontoexaminethebedbeforeenteringit，infuture。Thenwait，andsuffer，tillallthemosquitoesintheneighborhoodhavecrawledinunderthebar，thenslipoutquickly，shuttheminandsleeppeacefullyonthefloortillmorning。Meantimeitiscomfortingtocursethetropicsinoccasionalwakefulintervals。
WehadanabundanceoffruitinHonolulu，ofcourse。Oranges，pine-
apples，bananas，strawberries，lemons，limes，mangoes，guavas，melons，andarareandcuriousluxurycalledthechirimoya，whichisdeliciousnessitself。Thenthereisthetamarind。Ithoughttamarindsweremadetoeat，butthatwasprobablynottheidea。Iateseveral，anditseemedtomethattheywererathersourthatyear。Theypursedupmylips，tilltheyresembledthestem-endofatomato，andIhadtotakemysustenancethroughaquillfortwenty-fourhours。
TheysharpenedmyteethtillIcouldhaveshavedwiththem，andgavethema“wireedge“thatIwasafraidwouldstay；butacitizensaid“no，itwillcomeoffwhentheenameldoes“——whichwascomforting，atanyrate。
Ifound，afterward，thatonlystrangerseattamarinds——buttheyonlyeatthemonce。
CHAPTERLXIV。
InmydiaryofourthirddayinHonolulu，Ifindthis:
IamprobablythemostsensitivemaninHawaiito-night——especiallyaboutsittingdowninthepresenceofmybetters。Ihaveriddenfifteenortwentymilesonhorse-backsince5P。M。andtotellthehonesttruth，I
haveadelicacyaboutsittingdownatall。
AnexcursiontoDiamondHeadandtheKing\'sCoacoanutGrovewasplannedto-day——time，4:30P。M——thepartytoconsistofhalfadozengentlemenandthreeladies。Theyallstartedattheappointedhourexceptmyself。
IwasattheGovernmentprison，(withCaptainFishandanotherwhaleship-
skipper，CaptainPhillips，)andgotsointerestedinitsexaminationthatIdidnotnoticehowquicklythetimewaspassing。Somebodyremarkedthatitwastwentyminutespastfiveo\'clock，andthatwokemeup。ItwasafortunatecircumstancethatCaptainPhillipswasalongwithhis“turnout，“ashecallsatop-buggythatCaptainCookbroughtherein1778，andahorsethatwasherewhenCaptainCookcame。CaptainPhillipstakesajustprideinhisdrivingandinthespeedofhishorse，andtohispassionfordisplayingthemIoweitthatwewereonlysixteenminutescomingfromtheprisontotheAmericanHotel——adistancewhichhasbeenestimatedtobeoverhalfamile。Butittooksomefearfuldriving。TheCaptain\'swhipcamedownfast，andtheblowsstartedsomuchdustoutofthehorse\'shidethatduringthelasthalfofthejourneywerodethroughanimpenetrablefog，andranbyapocketcompassinthehandsofCaptainFish，awhaleroftwenty-sixyearsexperience，whosattherethroughtheperilousvoyageasself-possessedasifhehadbeenontheeuchre-deckofhisownship，andcalmlysaid，“Portyourhelm——port，“fromtimetotime，and“Holdheralittlefree——steady——so——
so，“and“Luff——harddowntostarboard！“andneveroncelosthispresenceofmindorbetrayedtheleastanxietybyvoiceormanner。Whenwecametoanchoratlast，andCaptainPhillipslookedathiswatchandsaid，“Sixteenminutes——Itoldyouitwasinher！that\'soverthreemilesanhour！“Icouldseehefeltentitledtoacompliment，andsoIsaidIhadneverseenlightninggolikethathorse。AndIneverhad。
ThelandlordoftheAmericansaidthepartyhadbeengonenearlyanhour，butthathecouldgivememychoiceofseveralhorsesthatcouldovertakethem。Isaid，nevermind——Ipreferredasafehorsetoafastone——I
wouldliketohaveanexcessivelygentlehorse——ahorsewithnospiritwhatever——alameone，ifhehadsuchathing。InsideoffiveminutesI
wasmounted，andperfectlysatisfiedwithmyoutfit。Ihadnotimetolabelhim“Thisisahorse，“andsoifthepublictookhimforasheepI
cannothelpit。Iwassatisfied，andthatwasthemainthing。Icouldseethathehadasmanyfinepointsasanyman\'shorse，andsoIhungmyhatononeofthem，behindthesaddle，andswabbedtheperspirationfrommyfaceandstarted。Inamedhimafterthisisland，“Oahu“(pronouncedO-waw-hee)。Thefirstgatehecametohestartedin；Ihadneitherwhipnorspur，andsoIsimplyarguedthecasewithhim。Heresistedargument，butultimatelyyieldedtoinsultandabuse。Hebackedoutofthatgateandsteeredforanotheroneontheothersideofthestreet。
Itriumphedbymyformerprocess。Withinthenextsixhundredyardshecrossedthestreetfourteentimesandattemptedthirteengates，andinthemeantimethetropicalsunwasbeatingdownandthreateningtocavethetopofmyheadin，andIwasliterallydrippingwithperspiration。
Heabandonedthegatebusinessafterthatandwentalongpeaceablyenough，butabsorbedinmeditation。Inoticedthislattercircumstance，anditsoonbegantofillmewithapprehension。Isaidtomyself，thiscreatureisplanningsomenewoutrage，somefreshdeviltryorother——nohorseeverthoughtoverasubjectsoprofoundlyasthisoneisdoingjustfornothing。ThemorethisthingpreyeduponmymindthemoreuneasyI
became，untilthesuspensebecamealmostunbearableandIdismountedtoseeiftherewasanythingwildinhiseye——forIhadheardthattheeyeofthisnoblestofourdomesticanimalsisveryexpressive。
IcannotdescribewhataloadofanxietywasliftedfrommymindwhenI
foundthathewasonlyasleep。Iwokehimupandstartedhimintoafasterwalk，andthenthevillainyofhisnaturecameoutagain。Hetriedtoclimboverastonewall，fiveorsixfeethigh。IsawthatI
mustapplyforcetothishorse，andthatImightaswellbeginfirstaslast。Ipluckedastoutswitchfromatamarindtree，andthemomenthesawit，hesurrendered。Hebrokeintoaconvulsivesortofacanter，whichhadthreeshortstepsinitandonelongone，andremindedmealternatelyoftheclatteringshakeofthegreatearthquake，andthesweepingplungingoftheAjaxinastorm。
Andnowtherecanbenofitteroccasionthanthepresenttopronouncealeft-handedblessinguponthemanwhoinventedtheAmericansaddle。
Thereisnoseattospeakofaboutit——onemightaswellsitinashovel——
andthestirrupsarenothingbutanornamentalnuisance。IfIweretowritedownherealltheabuseIexpendedonthosestirrups，itwouldmakealargebook，evenwithoutpictures。SometimesIgotonefootsofarthrough，thatthestirruppartookofthenatureofananklet；sometimesbothfeetwerethrough，andIwashandcuffedbythelegs；andsometimesmyfeetgotclearoutandleftthestirrupswildlydanglingaboutmyshins。EvenwhenIwasinproperpositionandcarefullybalancedupontheballsofmyfeet，therewasnocomfortinit，onaccountofmynervousdreadthattheyweregoingtosliponewayortheotherinamoment。Butthesubjectistooexasperatingtowriteabout。
Amileandahalffromtown，Icametoagroveoftallcocoanuttrees，withclean，branchlessstemsreachingstraightupsixtyorseventyfeetandtoppedwithasprayofgreenfoliageshelteringclustersofcocoa-
nuts——notmorepicturesquethanaforestofcollossalraggedparasols，withbunchesofmagnifiedgrapesunderthem，wouldbe。
Ionceheardagoutynortherninvalidsaythatacocoanuttreemightbepoetical，possiblyitwas；butitlookedlikeafeather-dusterstruckbylightning。Ithinkthatdescribesitbetterthanapicture——andyet，withoutanyquestion，thereissomethingfascinatingaboutacocoa-nuttree——andgraceful，too。
Aboutadozencottages，someframeandtheothersofnativegrass，nestledsleepilyintheshadehereandthere。Thegrasscabinsareofagrayishcolor，areshapedmuchlikeourowncottages，onlywithhigherandsteeperroofsusually，andaremadeofsomekindofweedstronglyboundtogetherinbundles。Theroofsareverythick，andsoarethewalls；thelatterhavesquareholesinthemforwindows。Atalittledistancethesecabinshaveafurryappearance，asiftheymightbemadeofbearskins。Theyareverycoolandpleasantinside。TheKing\'sflagwasflyingfromtheroofofoneofthecottages，andHisMajestywasprobablywithin。Heownsthewholeconcernthereabouts，andpasseshistimetherefrequently，onsultrydays“layingoff。”Thespotiscalled“TheKing\'sGrove。”
Nearbyisaninterestingruin——themeagreremainsofanancientheathentemple——aplacewherehumansacrificeswereofferedupinthoseoldbygonedayswhenthesimplechildofnature，yieldingmomentarilytosinwhensorelytempted，acknowledgedhiserrorwhencalmreflectionhadshownithim，andcameforwardwithnoblefranknessandoffereduphisgrandmotherasanatoningsacrifice——inthoseolddayswhenthelucklesssinnercouldkeeponcleansinghisconscienceandachievingperiodicalhappinessaslongashisrelationsheldout；long，longbeforethemissionariesbravedathousandprivationstocomeandmakethempermanentlymiserablebytellingthemhowbeautifulandhowblissfulaplaceheavenis，andhownearlyimpossibleitistogetthere；andshowedthepoornativehowdrearyaplaceperditionisandwhatunnecessarilyliberalfacilitiesthereareforgoingtoit；showedhimhow，inhisignorancehehadgoneandfooledawayallhiskinfolkstonopurpose；
showedhimwhatraptureitistoworkalldaylongforfiftycentstobuyfoodfornextdaywith，ascomparedwithfishingforpastimeandlollingintheshadethrougheternalSummer，andeatingofthebountythatnobodylaboredtoprovidebutNature。Howsaditistothinkofthemultitudeswhohavegonetotheirgravesinthisbeautifulislandandneverknewtherewasahell！
Thisancienttemplewasbuiltofroughblocksoflava，andwassimplyarooflessinclosureahundredandthirtyfeetlongandseventywide——
nothingbutnakedwalls，verythick，butnotmuchhigherthanaman\'shead。Theywilllastforagesnodoubt，ifleftunmolested。Itsthreealtarsandothersacredappurtenanceshavecrumbledandpassedawayyearsago。Itissaidthatintheoldtimesthousandsofhumanbeingswereslaughteredhere，inthepresenceofnakedandhowlingsavages。Ifthesemutestonescouldspeak，whattalestheycouldtell，whatpicturestheycoulddescribe，offetteredvictimswrithingundertheknife；ofmassedformsstrainingforwardoutofthegloom，withferociousfaceslitupbythesacrificialfires；ofthebackgroundofghostlytrees；ofthedarkpyramidofDiamondHeadstandingsentinelovertheuncannyscene，andthepeacefulmoonlookingdownuponitthroughriftsinthecloud-rack！
WhenKamehameha(pronouncedKa-may-ha-may-ah)theGreat——whowasasortofaNapoleoninmilitarygeniusanduniformsuccess——invadedthisislandofOahuthreequartersofacenturyago，andexterminatedthearmysenttoopposehim，andtookfullandfinalpossessionofthecountry，hesearchedoutthedeadbodyoftheKingofOahu，andthoseoftheprincipalchiefs，andimpaledtheirheadsonthewallsofthistemple。
Thoseweresavagetimeswhenthisoldslaughter-housewasinitsprime。
TheKingandthechiefsruledthecommonherdwitharodofiron；madethemgatheralltheprovisionsthemastersneeded；buildallthehousesandtemples；standalltheexpenses，ofwhateverkind；takekicksandcuffsforthanks；dragoutliveswellflavoredwithmisery，andthensufferdeathfortriflingoffencesoryielduptheirlivesonthesacrificialaltarstopurchasefavorsfromthegodsfortheirhardrulers。Themissionarieshaveclothedthem，educatedthem，brokenupthetyrannousauthorityoftheirchiefs，andgiventhemfreedomandtherighttoenjoywhatevertheirhandsandbrainsproducewithequallawsforall，andpunishmentforallalikewhotransgressthem。Thecontrastissostrong——thebenefitconferreduponthispeoplebythemissionariesissoprominent，sopalpableandsounquestionable，thatthefrankestcomplimentIcanpaythem，andthebest，issimplytopointtotheconditionoftheSandwichIslandersofCaptainCook\'stime，andtheirconditionto-day。
Theirworkspeaksforitself。
CHAPTERLXV。
Byandby，afteraruggedclimb，wehaltedonthesummitofahillwhichcommandedafar-reachingview。Themoonroseandfloodedmountainandvalleyandoceanwithamellowradiance，andoutoftheshadowsofthefoliagethedistantlightsofHonoluluglintedlikeanencampmentoffireflies。Theairwasheavywiththefragranceofflowers。Thehaltwasbrief——Gaylylaughingandtalking，thepartygallopedon，andI
clungtothepommelandcanteredafter。Presentlywecametoaplacewherenograssgrew——awideexpanseofdeepsand。Theysaiditwasanoldbattleground。Allaroundeverywhere，notthreefeetapart，thebleachedbonesofmengleamedwhiteinthemoonlight。Wepickedupalotofthemformementoes。Igotquiteanumberofarmbonesandlegbones——
ofgreatchiefs，maybe，whohadfoughtsavagelyinthatfearfulbattleintheolddays，whenbloodflowedlikewinewherewenowstood——andworethechoicestofthemoutonOahuafterward，tryingtomakehimgo。Allsortsofbonescouldbefoundexceptskulls；butacitizensaid，irreverently，thattherehadbeenanunusualnumberof“skull-hunters“
therelately——aspeciesofsportsmenIhadneverheardofbefore。
Nothingwhateverisknownaboutthisplace——itsstoryisasecretthatwillneverberevealed。Theoldestnativesmakenopretenseofbeingpossessedofitshistory。Theysaytheseboneswereherewhentheywerechildren。Theywereherewhentheirgrandfatherswerechildren——buthowtheycamehere，theycanonlyconjecture。Manypeoplebelievethisspottobeanancientbattle-ground，anditisusualtocallitso；andtheybelievethattheseskeletonshavelainforagesjustwheretheirproprietorsfellinthegreatfight。OtherpeoplebelievethatKamehamehaI。foughthisfirstbattlehere。Onthispoint，Ihaveheardastory，whichmayhavebeentakenfromoneofthenumerousbookswhichhavebeenwrittenconcerningtheseislands——Idonotknowwherethenarratorgotit。HesaidthatwhenKamehameha(whowasatfirstmerelyasubordinatechiefontheislandofHawaii)，landedhere，hebroughtalargearmywithhim，andencampedatWaikiki。TheOahuansmarchedagainsthim，andsoconfidentweretheyofsuccessthattheyreadilyaccededtoademandoftheirprieststhattheyshoulddrawalinewherethesebonesnowlie，andtakeanoaththat，ifforcedtoretreatatall，theywouldneverretreatbeyondthisboundary。Theprieststoldthemthatdeathandeverlastingpunishmentwouldovertakeanywhoviolatedtheoath，andthemarchwasresumed。Kamehamehadrovethembackstepbystep；thepriestsfoughtinthefrontrankandexhortedthembothbyvoiceandinspiritingexampletoremembertheiroath——todie，ifneedbe，butnevercrossthefatalline。Thestrugglewasmanfullymaintained，butatlastthechiefpriestfell，piercedtotheheartwithaspear，andtheunluckyomenfelllikeablightuponthebravesoulsathisback；
withatriumphantshouttheinvaderspressedforward——thelinewascrossed——theoffendedgodsdesertedthedespairingarmy，and，acceptingthedoomtheirperjuryhadbroughtuponthem，theybrokeandfledovertheplainwhereHonolulustandsnow——upthebeautifulNuuanuValley——
pausedamoment，hemmedinbyprecipitousmountainsoneitherhandandthefrightfulprecipiceofthePariinfront，andthenweredrivenover——
asheerplungeofsixhundredfeet！
Thestoryisprettyenough，butMr。Jarves\'excellenthistorysaystheOahuanswereintrenchedinNuuanuValley；thatKamehamehaoustedthem，routedthem，pursuedthemupthevalleyanddrovethemovertheprecipice。Hemakesnomentionofourbone-yardatallinhisbook。
Impressedbytheprofoundsilenceandreposethatrestedoverthebeautifullandscape，andbeing，asusual，intherear，Igavevoicetomythoughts。Isaid:
“Whatapictureishereslumberinginthesolemngloryofthemoon！Howstrongtheruggedoutlinesofthedeadvolcanostandoutagainsttheclearsky！Whatasnowyfringemarkstheburstingofthesurfoverthelong，curvedreef！Howcalmlythedimcitysleepsyonderintheplain！
Howsofttheshadowslieuponthestatelymountainsthatborderthedream-hauntedMauoaValley！WhatagrandpyramidofbillowycloudstowersabovethestoriedPari！Howthegrimwarriorsofthepastseemflockinginghostlysquadronstotheirancientbattlefieldagain——howthewailsofthedyingwellupfromthe——“
AtthispointthehorsecalledOahusatdowninthesand。Satdowntolisten，Isuppose。Nevermindwhatheheard，IstoppedapostrophisingandconvincedhimthatIwasnotamantoallowcontemptofCourtonthepartofahorse。Ibroketheback-boneofaChiefoverhisrumpandsetouttojointhecavalcadeagain。
Veryconsiderablyfaggedoutwearrivedintownat9o\'clockatnight，myselfinthelead——forwhenmyhorsefinallycametounderstandthathewashomewardboundandhadn\'tfartogo，heturnedhisattentionstrictlytobusiness。
Thisisagoodtimetodropinaparagraphofinformation。ThereisnoregularliverystableinHonolulu，or，indeed，inanypartoftheKingdomofHawaii；thereforeunlessyouareacquaintedwithwealthyresidents(whoallhavegoodhorses)，youmusthireanimalsofthewretchedestdescriptionfromtheKanakas。(i。e。natives。)Anyhorseyouhire，eventhoughitbefromawhiteman，isnotoftenofmuchaccount，becauseitwillbebroughtinforyoufromsomeranch，andhasnecessarilybeenleadingahardlife。IftheKanakaswhohavebeencaringforhim(inveterateriderstheyare)havenotriddenhimhalftodeatheverydaythemselves，youcandependuponittheyhavebeendoingthesamethingbyproxy，byclandestinelyhiringhimout。Atleast，soIaminformed。Theresultis，thatnohorsehasachancetoeat，drink，rest，recuperate，orlookwellorfeelwell，andsostrangersgoabouttheIslandsmountedasIwasto-day。
InhiringahorsefromaKanaka，youmusthaveallyoureyesaboutyou，becauseyoucanrestsatisfiedthatyouaredealingwithashrewdunprincipledrascal。Youmayleaveyourdooropenandyourtrunkunlockedaslongasyouplease，andhewillnotmeddlewithyourproperty；hehasnoimportantvicesandnoinclinationtocommitrobberyonalargescale；butifhecangetaheadofyouinthehorsebusiness，hewilltakeagenuinedelightindoingit。Thistraitsischaracteristicofhorsejockeys，theworldover，isitnot?Hewilloverchargeyouifhecan；hewillhireyouafine-lookinghorseatnight(anybody\'s——maybetheKing\'s，iftheroyalsteedbeinconvenientview)，andbringyouthematetomyOahuinthemorning，andcontendthatitisthesameanimal。Ifyoumaketrouble，hewillgetoutbysayingitwasnothimselfwhomadethebargainwithyou，buthisbrother，“whowentoutinthecountrythismorning。”Theyhavealwaysgota“brother“toshifttheresponsibilityupon。Avictimsaidtooneofthesefellowsoneday:
“ButIknowIhiredthehorseofyou，becauseInoticedthatscaronyourcheek。”
Thereplywasnotbad:“Oh，yes——yes——mybrotherallsame——wetwins！“
Afriendofmine，J。Smith，hiredahorseyesterday，theKanakawarrantinghimtobeinexcellentcondition。
Smithhadasaddleandblanketofhisown，andheorderedtheKanakatoputtheseonthehorse。TheKanakaprotestedthathewasperfectlywillingtotrustthegentlemanwiththesaddlethatwasalreadyontheanimal，butSmithrefusedtouseit。Thechangewasmade；thenSmithnoticedthattheKanakahadonlychangedthesaddles，andhadlefttheoriginalblanketonthehorse；hesaidheforgottochangetheblankets，andso，tocutthebothershort，Smithmountedandrodeaway。Thehorsewentlameamilefromtown，andafterwardgottocuttingupsomeextraordinarycapers。Smithgotdownandtookoffthesaddle，buttheblanketstuckfasttothehorse——gluedtoaprocessionofrawplaces。
TheKanaka\'smysteriousconductstoodexplained。
Anotherfriendofmineboughtaprettygoodhorsefromanative，adayortwoago，afteratolerablythoroughexaminationoftheanimal。Hediscoveredtodaythatthehorsewasasblindasabat，inoneeye。Hemeanttohaveexaminedthateye，andcamehomewithageneralnotionthathehaddoneit；butheremembersnowthateverytimehemadetheattempthisattentionwascalledtosomethingelsebyhisvictimizer。
Onemoreinstance，andthenIwillpasstosomethingelse。IaminformedthatwhenacertainMr。L。，avisitingstranger，washere，heboughtapairofveryrespectable-lookingmatchhorsesfromanative。Theywereinalittlestablewithapartitionthroughthemiddleofit——onehorseineachapartment。Mr。L。examinedoneofthemcriticallythroughawindow(theKanaka\'s“brother“havinggonetothecountrywiththekey)，andthenwentaroundthehouseandexaminedtheotherthroughawindowontheotherside。Hesaiditwastheneatestmatchhehadeverseen，andpaidforthehorsesonthespot。WhereupontheKanakadepartedtojoinhisbrotherinthecountry。ThefellowhadshamefullyswindledL。Therewasonlyone“match“horse，andhehadexaminedhisstarboardsidethroughonewindowandhisportsidethroughanother！Ideclinetobelievethisstory，butIgiveitbecauseitisworthsomethingasafancifulillustrationofafixedfact——namely，thattheKanakahorse-
jockeyisfertileininventionandelasticinconscience。
Youcanbuyaprettygoodhorseforfortyorfiftydollars，andagoodenoughhorseforallpracticalpurposesfortwodollarsandahalf。I
estimate“Oahu“tobeworthsomewhereintheneighborhoodofthirty-fivecents。Agooddealbetteranimalthanheiswassoldheredaybeforeyesterdayforadollarandseventy-fivecents，andsoldagainto-dayfortwodollarsandtwenty-fivecents；Williamsboughtahandsomeandlivelylittleponyyesterdayfortendollars；andaboutthebestcommonhorseontheisland(andheisareallygoodone)soldyesterday，withMexicansaddleandbridle，forseventydollars——ahorsewhichiswellandwidelyknown，andgreatlyrespectedforhisspeed，gooddispositionandeverlastingbottom。
Yougiveyourhorsealittlegrainonceaday；itcomesfromSanFrancisco，andisworthabouttwocentsapound；andyougivehimasmuchhayashewants；itiscutandbroughttothemarketbynatives，andisnotverygooditisbaledintolong，roundbundles，aboutthesizeofalargeman；oneofthemisstuckbythemiddleoneachendofasixfootpole，andtheKanakashouldersthepoleandwalksaboutthestreetsbetweentheuprightbalesinsearchofcustomers。Thesehaybales，thuscarried，haveageneralresemblancetoacolossalcapital\'H。\'
Thehay-bundlescosttwenty-fivecentsapiece，andonewilllastahorseaboutaday。Youcangetahorseforasong，aweek\'shayforanothersong，andyoucanturnyouranimallooseamongtheluxuriantgrassinyourneighbor\'sbroadfrontyardwithoutasongatall——youdoitatmidnight，andstablethebeastagainbeforemorning。Youhavebeenatnoexpensethusfar，butwhenyoucometobuyasaddleandbridletheywillcostyoufromtwentytothirty-fivedollars。Youcanhireahorse，saddleandbridleatfromseventotendollarsaweek，andtheownerwilltakecareofthemathisownexpense。
Itistimetoclosethisday\'srecord——bedtime。AsIprepareforsleep，arichvoicerisesoutofthestillnight，and，farasthisoceanrockistowardtheendsoftheearth，Irecognizeafamiliarhomeair。Butthewordsseemsomewhatoutofjoint:
“WaikikilantonioeKaahoolyhoolywawhoo。”
Translated，thatmeans“WhenweweremarchingthroughGeorgia。”
CHAPTERLXVI。
PassingthroughthemarketplacewesawthatfeatureofHonoluluunderitsmostfavorableauspices——thatis，inthefullgloryofSaturdayafternoon，whichisafestivedaywiththenatives。Thenativegirlsbytwosandthreesandpartiesofadozen，andsometimesinwholeplatoonsandcompanies，wentcanteringupanddowntheneighboringstreetsastrideoffleetbuthomelyhorses，andwiththeirgaudyridinghabitsstreaminglikebannersbehindthem。Suchatroopoffreeandeasyriders，intheirnaturalhome，thesaddle，makesagayandgracefulspectacle。TheridinghabitIspeakofissimplyalong，broadscarf，likeataverntableclothbrilliantlycolored，wrappedaroundtheloinsonce，thenapparentlypassedbetweenthelimbsandeachendthrownbackwardoverthesame，andfloatingandflappingbehindonbothsidesbeyondthehorse\'staillikeacoupleoffancyflags；then，slippingthestirrup-ironsbetweenhertoes，thegirlthrowsherchestforward，sitsuplikeaMajorGeneralandgoessweepingbylikethewind。
ThegirlsputonallthefinerytheycanonSaturdayafternoon——fineblacksilkrobes；flowingredonesthatnearlyputyoureyesout；othersaswhiteassnow；stillothersthatdiscounttherainbow；andtheyweartheirhairinnets，andtrimtheirjauntyhatswithfreshflowers，andencircletheirduskythroatswithhome-madenecklacesofthebrilliantvermillion-tintedblossomoftheohia；andtheyfillthemarketsandtheadjacentstreetwiththeirbrightpresences，andsmelllikearagfactoryonfirewiththeiroffensivecocoanutoil。
OccasionallyyouseeaheathenfromthesunnyislesawaydownintheSouthSeas，withhisfaceandnecktatooedtillhelookslikethecustomarymendicantfromWashoewhohasbeenblownupinamine。Somearetattooedadeadbluecolordowntotheupperlip——masked，asitwere——leavingthenaturallightyellowskinofMicronesiaunstainedfromthencedown；somewithbroadmarksdrawndownfromhairtoneck，onbothsidesoftheface，andastripoftheoriginalyellowskin，twoincheswide，downthecenter——agridironwithaspokebrokenout；andsomewiththeentirefacediscoloredwiththepopularmortificationtint，relievedonlybyoneortwothin，wavythreadsofnaturalyellowrunningacrossthefacefromeartoear，andeyestwinklingoutofthisdarkness，fromundershadowinghat-brims，likestarsinthedarkofthemoon。
Movingamongthestirringcrowds，youcometothepoimerchants，squattingintheshadeontheirhams，intruenativefashion，andsurroundedbypurchasers。(TheSandwichIslandersalwayssquatontheirhams，andwhoknowsbuttheymaybetheoldoriginal“hamsandwiches?“
Thethoughtispregnantwithinterest。)Thepoilookslikecommonflourpaste，andiskeptinlargebowlsformedofaspeciesofgourd，andcapableofholdingfromonetothreeorfourgallons。Poiisthechiefarticleoffoodamongthenatives，andispreparedfromthetaroplant。
Thetarorootlookslikeathick，or，ifyouplease，acorpulentsweetpotato，inshape，butisofalightpurplecolorwhenboiled。Whenboileditanswersasapassablesubstituteforbread。ThebuckKanakasbakeitunderground，thenmashitupwellwithaheavylavapestle，mixwaterwithituntilitbecomesapaste，setitasideandletifferment，andthenitispoi——andanunseductivemixtureitis，almosttastelessbeforeitfermentsandtoosourforaluxuryafterward。Butnothingismorenutritious。Whensolelyused，however，itproducesacridhumors，afactwhichsufficientlyaccountsforthehumorouscharacteroftheKanakas。Ithinktheremustbeasmuchofaknackinhandlingpoiasthereisineatingwithchopsticks。Theforefingeristhrustintothemessandstirredquicklyroundseveraltimesanddrawnasquicklyout，thicklycoated，justasititwerepoulticed；theheadisthrownback，thefingerinsertedinthemouthandthedelicacystrippedoffandswallowed——theeyeclosinggently，meanwhile，inalanguidsortofecstasy。Manyadifferentfingergoesintothesamebowlandmanyadifferentkindofdirtandshadeandqualityofflavorisaddedtothevirtuesofitscontents。
Aroundasmallshantywascollectedacrowdofnativesbuyingtheawaroot。Itissaidthatbutfortheuseofthisrootthedestructionofthepeopleinformertimesbycertainimporteddiseaseswouldhavebeenfargreaterthanitwas，andbyothersitissaidthatthisismerelyafancy。Allagreethatpoiwillrejuvenateamanwhoisusedupandhisvitalityalmostannihilatedbyharddrinking，andthatinsomekindsofdiseasesitwillrestorehealthafterallmedicineshavefailed；butallarenotwillingtoallowtotheawathevirtuesclaimedforit。Thenativesmanufactureanintoxicatingdrinkfromitwhichisfearfulinitseffectswhenpersistentlyindulgedin。Itcoversthebodywithdry，whitescales，inflamestheeyes，andcausesprematuredecripitude。
AlthoughthemanbeforewhoseestablishmentwestoppedhastopayaGovernmentlicenseofeighthundreddollarsayearfortheexclusiverighttosellawaroot，itissaidthathemakesasmallfortuneeverytwelve-month；whilesaloonkeepers，whopayathousanddollarsayearfortheprivilegeofretailingwhiskey，etc。，onlymakeabareliving。
Wefoundthefishmarketcrowded；forthenativeisveryfondoffish，andeatsthearticlerawandalive！Letuschangethesubject。
InoldtimeshereSaturdaywasagrandgaladayindeed。Allthenativepopulationofthetownforsooktheirlabors，andthoseofthesurroundingcountryjourneyedtothecity。Thenthewhitefolkshadtostayindoors，foreverystreetwassopackedwithchargingcavaliersandcavalieressesthatitwasnexttoimpossibletothreadone\'swaythroughthecavalcadeswithoutgettingcrippled。
Atnighttheyfeastedandthegirlsdancedthelascivioushulahula——adancethatissaidtoexhibittheveryperfectionofeducatednotionoflimbandarm，hand，headandbody，andtheexactestuniformityofmovementandaccuracyof“time。”Itwasperformedbyacircleofgirlswithnoraimentonthemtospeakof，whowentthroughaninfinitevarietyofmotionsandfigureswithoutprompting，andyetsotruewastheir“time，“andinsuchperfectconcertdidtheymovethatwhentheywereplacedinastraightline，hands，arms，bodies，limbsandheadswaved，swayed，gesticulated，bowed，stooped，whirled，squirmed，twistedandundulatedasiftheywerepartandparcelofasingleindividual；anditwasdifficulttobelievetheywerenotmovedinabodybysomeexquisitepieceofmechanism。
Oflateyears，however，Saturdayhaslostmostofitsquondamgalafeatures。Thisweeklystampedeofthenativesinterferedtoomuchwithlaborandtheinterestsofthewhitefolks，andbystickinginalawhere，andpreachingasermonthere，andbyvariousothermeans，theygraduallybrokeitup。Thedemoralizinghulahulawasforbiddentobeperformed，saveatnight，withcloseddoors，inpresenceoffewspectators，andonlybypermissiondulyprocuredfromtheauthoritiesandthepaymentoftendollarsforthesame。Therearefewgirlsnow-a-daysabletodancethisancientnationaldanceinthehighestperfectionoftheart。
Themissionarieshavechristianizedandeducatedallthenatives。TheyallbelongtotheChurch，andthereisnotoneofthem，abovetheageofeightyears，butcanreadandwritewithfacilityinthenativetongue。
ItisthemostuniversallyeducatedraceofpeopleoutsideofChina。
Theyhaveanyquantityofbooks，printedintheKanakalanguage，andallthenativesarefondofreading。Theyareinveteratechurch-goers——
nothingcankeepthemaway。Allthisamelioratingcultivationhasatlastbuiltupinthenativewomenaprofoundrespectforchastity——inotherpeople。Perhapsthatisenoughtosayonthathead。Thenationalsinwilldieoutwhentheracedoes，butperhapsnotearlier——Butdoubtlessthispurifyingisnotfaroff，whenwereflectthatcontactwithcivilizationandthewhiteshasreducedthenativepopulationfromfourhundredthousand(CaptainCook\'sestimate，)tofifty-fivethousandinsomethingovereightyyears！
Societyisaqueermedleyinthisnotablemissionary，whalingandgovernmentalcentre。Ifyougetintoconversationwithastrangerandexperiencethatnaturaldesiretoknowwhatsortofgroundyouaretreadingonbyfindingoutwhatmannerofmanyourstrangeris，strikeoutboldlyandaddresshimas“Captain。”Watchhimnarrowly，andifyouseebyhiscountenancethatyouareonthewrongtack，askhimwherehepreaches。Itisasafebetthatheiseitheramissionaryorcaptainofawhaler。Iamnowpersonallyacquaintedwithseventy-twocaptainsandninety-sixmissionaries。Thecaptainsandministersformone-halfofthepopulation；thethirdfourthiscomposedofcommonKanakasandmercantileforeignersandtheirfamilies，andthefinalfourthismadeupofhighofficersoftheHawaiianGovernment。Andtherearejustaboutcatsenoughforthreeapieceallaround。
