第9章

类别:其他 作者:Mark Twain字数:35673更新时间:18/12/20 11:15:16
CHAPTERLII。 SinceIdesire,inthischapter,tosayaninstructivewordortwoaboutthesilvermines,thereadermaytakethisfairwarningandskip,ifhechooses。Theyear1863wasperhapstheverytopblossomandculminationofthe“flushtimes。”Virginiaswarmedwithmenandvehiclestothatdegreethattheplacelookedlikeaveryhive——thatiswhenone\'svisioncouldpiercethroughthethickfogofalkalidustthatwasgenerallyblowinginsummer。Iwillsay,concerningthisdust,thatifyoudrovetenmilesthroughit,youandyourhorseswouldbecoatedwithitasixteenthofaninchthickandpresentanoutsideappearancethatwasauniformpaleyellowcolor,andyourbuggywouldhavethreeinchesofdustinit,throwntherebythewheels。Thedelicatescalesusedbytheassayerswereinclosedinglasscasesintendedtobeair-tight,andyetsomeofthisdustwassoimpalpableandsoinvisiblyfinethatitwouldgetin,somehow,andimpairtheaccuracyofthosescales。 Speculationranriot,andyettherewasaworldofsubstantialbusinessgoingon,too。AllfreightswerebroughtoverthemountainsfromCalifornia(150miles)bypack-trainpartly,andpartlyinhugewagonsdrawnbysuchlongmuleteamsthateachteamamountedtoaprocession,anditdidseem,sometimes,thatthegrandcombinedprocessionofanimalsstretchedunbrokenfromVirginiatoCalifornia。ItslongroutewastraceableclearacrossthedesertsfotheTerritorybythewrithingserpentofdustitliftedup。Bythesewagons,freightsoverthathundredandfiftymileswere$200atonforsmalllots(samepriceforallexpressmatterbroughtbystage),and$100atonforfullloads。 OneVirginiafirmreceivedonehundredtonsoffreightamonth,andpaid$10,000amonthfreightage。Inthewinterthefreightsweremuchhigher。 AllthebullionwasshippedinbarsbystagetoSanFrancisco(abarwasusuallyabouttwicethesizeofapigofleadandcontainedfrom$1,500 to$3,000accordingtotheamountofgoldmixedwiththesilver),andthefreightonit(whentheshipmentwaslarge)wasoneandaquarterpercent。ofitsintrinsicvalue。 So,thefreightonthesebarsprobablyaveragedsomethingmorethan$25 each。Smallshipperspaidtwopercent。Therewerethreestagesaday,eachway,andIhaveseentheout-goingstagescarryawayathirdofatonofbullioneach,andmorethanonceIsawthemdivideatwo-tonlotandtakeitoff。However,thesewereextraordinaryevents。 [Mr。Valentine,WellsFargo\'sagent,hashandledallthebullionshippedthroughtheVirginiaofficeformanyamonth。Tohismemory——whichisexcellent——weareindebtedforthefollowingexhibitofthecompany\'sbusinessintheVirginiaofficesincethefirstofJanuary,1862:FromJanuary1sttoApril1st,about$270,000worthofbullionpassedthroughthatoffice,duringthenextquarter,$570,000;nextquarter,$800,000; nextquarter,$956,000;nextquarter,$1,275,000;andforthequarterendingonthe30thoflastJune,about$1,600,000。Thusinayearandahalf,theVirginiaofficeonlyshipped$5,330,000inbullion。Duringtheyear1862theyshipped$2,615,000,soweperceivetheaverageshipmentshavemorethandoubledinthelastsixmonths。ThisgivesusroomtopromisefortheVirginiaoffice$500,000amonthfortheyear1863 (thoughperhaps,judgingbythesteadyincreaseinthebusiness,weareunderestimating,somewhat)。Thisgivesus$6,000,000fortheyear。 GoldHillandSilverCitytogethercanbeatus——wewillgivethem$10,000,000。ToDayton,EmpireCity,OphirandCarsonCity,wewillallowanaggregateof$8,000,000,whichisnotoverthemark,perhaps,andmaypossiblybealittleunderit。ToEsmeraldawegive$4,000,000。 ToReeseRiverandHumboldt$2,000,000,whichisliberalnow,butmaynotbebeforetheyearisout。Soweprognosticatethattheyieldofbullionthisyearwillbeabout$30,000,000。PlacingthenumberofmillsintheTerritoryatonehundred,thisgivestoeachthelaborofproducing$300,000inbullionduringthetwelvemonths。Allowingthemtorunthreehundreddaysintheyear(whichnoneofthemmorethando),thismakestheirworkaverage$1,000aday。Saythemillsaveragetwentytonsofrockadayandthisrockworth$50asageneralthing,andyouhavetheactualworkofouronehundredmillsfigureddown“toaspot“——$1,000adayeach,and$30,000,000ayearintheaggregate——Enterprise。 [Aconsiderableoverestimate——M。T。]] Twotonsofsilverbullionwouldbeintheneighborhoodoffortybars,andthefreightonitover$1,000。Eachcoachalwayscarriedadealofordinaryexpressmatterbeside,andalsofromfifteentotwentypassengersatfrom$25to$30ahead。Withsixstagesgoingallthetime,Wells,FargoandCo。\'sVirginiaCitybusinesswasimportantandlucrative。 AllalongunderthecentreofVirginiaandGoldHill,foracoupleofmiles,ranthegreatComstocksilverlode——aveinoforefromfiftytoeightyfeetthickbetweenitssolidwallsofrock——aveinaswideassomeofNewYork\'sstreets。IwillremindthereaderthatinPennsylvaniaacoalveinonlyeightfeetwideisconsideredample。 Virginiawasabusycityofstreetsandhousesaboveground。Underitwasanotherbusycity,downinthebowelsoftheearth,whereagreatpopulationofmenthrongedinandoutamonganintricatemazeoftunnelsanddrifts,flittinghitherandthitherunderawinkingsparkleoflights,andovertheirheadstoweredavastwebofinterlockingtimbersthatheldthewallsoftheguttedComstockapart。Thesetimberswereaslargeasaman\'sbody,andtheframeworkstretchedupwardsofarthatnoeyecouldpiercetoitstopthroughtheclosinggloom。Itwaslikepeeringupthroughtheclean-pickedribsandbonesofsomecolossalskeleton。Imaginesuchaframeworktwomileslong,sixtyfeetwide,andhigherthananychurchspireinAmerica。Imaginethisstatelylattice- workstretchingdownBroadway,fromtheSt。NicholastoWallstreet,andaFourthofJulyprocession,reducedtopigmies,paradingontopofitandflauntingtheirflags,highabovethepinnacleofTrinitysteeple。 Onecanimaginethat,buthecannotwellimaginewhatthatforestoftimberscost,fromthetimetheywerefelledinthepineriesbeyondWashoeLake,hauledupandaroundMountDavidsonatatrociousratesoffreightage,thensquared,letdownintothedeepmawofthemineandbuiltupthere。Twentyamplefortuneswouldnottimberoneofthegreatestofthosesilvermines。TheSpanishproverbsaysitrequiresagoldmineto“run“asilverone,anditistrue。Abeggarwithasilvermineisapitiablepauperindeedifhecannotsell。 IspokeoftheundergroundVirginiaasacity。TheGouldandCurryisonlyonesinglemineunderthere,amongagreatmanyothers;yettheGouldandCurry\'sstreetsofdismaldriftsandtunnelswerefivemilesinextent,altogether,anditspopulationfivehundredminers。Takenasawhole,theundergroundcityhadsomethirtymilesofstreetsandapopulationoffiveorsixthousand。InthispresentdaysomeofthosepopulationsareatworkfromtwelvetosixteenhundredfeetunderVirginiaandGoldHill,andthesignal-bellsthattellthemwhatthesuperintendentabovegrounddesiresthemtodoarestruckbytelegraphaswestrikeafirealarm。Sometimesmenfalldownashaft,there,athousandfeetdeep。Insuchcases,theusualplanistoholdaninquest。 Ifyouwishtovisitoneofthosemines,youmaywalkthroughatunnelabouthalfamilelongifyoupreferit,oryoumaytakethequickerplanofshootinglikeadartdownashaft,onasmallplatform。Itisliketumblingdownthroughanemptysteeple,feetfirst。Whenyoureachthebottom,youtakeacandleandtrampthroughdriftsandtunnelswherethrongsofmenarediggingandblasting;youwatchthemsenduptubsfullofgreatlumpsofstone——silverore;youselectchoicespecimensfromthemass,assouvenirs;youadmiretheworldofskeletontimbering;youreflectfrequentlythatyouareburiedunderamountain,athousandfeetbelowdaylight;beinginthebottomofthemineyouclimbfrom“gallery“ to“gallery,“upendlessladdersthatstandstraightupanddown;whenyourlegsfailyouatlast,youliedowninasmallbox-carinacramped“incline“likeahalf-up-endedsewerandaredraggeduptodaylightfeelingasifyouarecrawlingthroughacoffinthathasnoendtoit。 Arrivedatthetop,youfindabusycrowdofmenreceivingtheascendingcarsandtubsanddumpingtheorefromanelevationintolongrowsofbinscapableofholdinghalfadozentonseach;underthebinsarerowsofwagonsloadingfromchutesandtrap-doorsinthebins,anddownthelongstreetisaprocessionofthesewagonswendingtowardthesilvermillswiththeirrichfreight。Itisall“done,“now,andthereyouare。 Youneednevergodownagain,foryouhaveseenitall。Ifyouhaveforgottentheprocessofreducingtheoreinthemillandmakingthesilverbars,youcangobackandfinditagaininmyEsmeraldachaptersifsodisposed。 Ofcoursetheseminescavein,inplaces,occasionally,andthenitisworthone\'swhiletotaketheriskofdescendingintothemandobservingthecrushingpowerexertedbythepressingweightofasettlingmountain。 IpublishedsuchanexperienceintheEnterprise,once,andfromitI willtakeanextract: ANHOURINTHECAVEDMINES——WejourneyeddownintotheOphirmine,yesterday,toseetheearthquake。Wecouldnotgodownthedeepincline,becauseitstillhasapropensitytocaveinplaces。 ThereforewetraveledthroughthelongtunnelwhichentersthehillabovetheOphiroffice,andthenbymeansofaseriesoflongladders,climbedawaydownfromthefirsttothefourthgallery。 Traversingadrift,wecametotheSpanishline,passedfivesetsoftimbersstilluninjured,andfoundtheearthquake。Herewasascompleteachaosaseverwasseen——vastmassesofearthandsplinteredandbrokentimberspiledconfusedlytogether,withscarcelyanapertureleftlargeenoughforacattocreepthrough。 Rubbishwasstillfallingatintervalsfromabove,andonetimberwhichhadbracedothersearlierintheday,wasnowcrusheddownoutofitsformerposition,showingthatthecavingandsettlingofthetremendousmasswasstillgoingon。WewereinthatportionoftheOphirknownasthe“northmines。”Returningtothesurface,weenteredatunnelleadingintotheCentral,forthepurposeofgettingintothemainOphir。Descendingalonginclineinthistunnel,wetraversedadriftorso,andthenwentdownadeepshaftfromwhenceweproceededintothefifthgalleryoftheOphir。Fromaside-driftwecrawledthroughasmallholeandgotintothemidstoftheearthquakeagain——earthandbrokentimbersmingledtogetherwithoutregardtograceorsymmetry。Alargeportionofthesecond,thirdandfourthgallerieshadcavedinandgonetodestruction——thetwolatteratseveno\'clockonthepreviousevening。 Attheturn-table,nearthenorthernextremityofthefifthgallery,twobigpilesofrubbishhadforcedtheirwaythroughfromthefifthgallery,andfromthelooksofthetimbers,morewasabouttocome。 Thesebeamsaresolid——eighteeninchessquare;first,agreatbeamislaidonthefloor,thenuprightones,fivefeethigh,standonit,supportinganotherhorizontalbeam,andsoon,squareabovesquare,liketheframeworkofawindow。Thesuperincumbentweightwassufficienttomashtheendsofthosegreatuprightbeamsfairlyintothesolidwoodofthehorizontalonesthreeinches,compressingandbendingtheuprightbeamtillitcurvedlikeabow。BeforetheSpanishcavedin,someoftheirtwelve-inchhorizontaltimberswerecompressedinthiswayuntiltheywereonlyfiveinchesthick! Imaginethepoweritmusttaketosqueezeasolidlogtogetherinthatway。Here,also,wasarangeoftimbers,foradistanceoftwentyfeet,tiltedsixinchesoutoftheperpendicularbytheweightrestinguponthemfromthecavedgalleriesabove。Youcouldhearthingscrackingandgivingway,anditwasnotpleasanttoknowthattheworldoverheadwasslowlyandsilentlysinkingdownuponyou。Themendownintheminedonotmindit,however。 Returningalongthefifthgallery,westruckthesafepartoftheOphirincline,andwentdownittothesixth;butwefoundteninchesofwaterthere,andhadtocomeback。Inrepairingthedamagedonetotheincline,thepumphadtobestoppedfortwohours,andinthemeantimethewatergainedaboutafoot。However,thepumpwasatworkagain,andtheflood-waterwasdecreasing。 Weclimbeduptothefifthgalleryagainandsoughtadeepshaft,wherebywemightdescendtoanotherpartofthesixth,outofreachofthewater,butsuffereddisappointment,asthemenhadgonetodinner,andtherewasnoonetomanthewindlass。So,havingseentheearthquake,weclimbedoutattheUnioninclineandtunnel,andadjourned,alldrippingwithcandlegreaseandperspiration,tolunchattheOphiroffice。 Duringthegreatflushyearof1863,Nevada[claimstohave] produced$25,000,000inbullion——almost,ifnotquite,aroundmilliontoeachthousandinhabitants,whichisverywell,consideringthatshewaswithoutagricultureandmanufactures。 Silverminingwashersoleproductiveindustry。[Sincetheabovewasintype,Ilearnfromanofficialsourcethattheabovefigureistoohigh,andthattheyieldfor1863didnotexceed$20,000,000。 However,thedayforlargefiguresisapproaching;theSutroTunnelistoplowthroughtheComstocklodefromendtoend,atadepthoftwothousandfeet,andthenminingwillbeeasyandcomparativelyinexpensive;andthemomentousmattersofdrainage,andhoistingandhaulingoforewillceasetobeburdensome。Thisvastworkwillabsorbmanyyears,andmillionsofdollars,initscompletion;butitwillearlyyieldmoney,forthatdesirableepochwillbeginassoonasitstrikesthefirstendofthevein。Thetunnelwillbesomeeightmileslong,andwilldevelopastonishingriches。Carswillcarrytheorethroughthetunnelanddumpitinthemillsandthusdoawaywiththepresentcostlysystemofdoublehandlingandtransportationbymuleteams。Thewaterfromthetunnelwillfurnishthemotivepowerforthemills。Mr。Sutro,theoriginatorofthisprodigiousenterprise,isoneofthefewmenintheworldwhoisgiftedwiththepluckandperseverancenecessarytofollowupandhoundsuchanundertakingtoitscompletion。HehasconvertedseveralobstinateCongressestoadeservedfriendlinesstowardhisimportantwork,andhasgoneupanddownandtoandfroinEuropeuntilhehasenlistedagreatmoneyedinterestinitthere。 CHAPTERLIII。 Everynowandthen,inthesedays,theboysusedtotellmeIoughttogetoneJimBlainetotellmethestirringstoryofhisgrandfather\'soldram——buttheyalwaysaddedthatImustnotmentionthematterunlessJimwasdrunkatthetime——justcomfortablyandsociablydrunk。Theykeptthisupuntilmycuriositywasontheracktohearthestory。IgottohauntingBlaine;butitwasofnouse,theboysalwaysfoundfaultwithhiscondition;hewasoftenmoderatelybutneversatisfactorilydrunk。 Ineverwatchedaman\'sconditionwithsuchabsorbinginterest,suchanxioussolicitude;Ineversopinedtoseeamanuncompromisinglydrunkbefore。Atlast,oneeveningIhurriedtohiscabin,forIlearnedthatthistimehissituationwassuchthateventhemostfastidiouscouldfindnofaultwithit——hewastranquilly,serenely,symmetricallydrunk——notahiccuptomarhisvoice,notaclouduponhisbrainthickenoughtoobscurehismemory。AsIentered,hewassittinguponanemptypowder- keg,withaclaypipeinonehandandtheotherraisedtocommandsilence。Hisfacewasround,red,andveryserious;histhroatwasbareandhishairtumbled;ingeneralappearanceandcostumehewasastalwartmineroftheperiod。Onthepinetablestoodacandle,anditsdimlightrevealed“theboys“sittinghereandthereonbunks,candle-boxes,powder-kegs,etc。Theysaid: “Sh——!Don\'tspeak——he\'sgoingtocommence。” THESTORYOFTHEOLDRAM。 Ifoundaseatatonce,andBlainesaid: \'Idon\'treckonthemtimeswillevercomeagain。Thereneverwasamorebullieroldramthanwhathewas。GrandfatherfetchedhimfromIllinois——gothimofamanbythenameofYates——BillYates——maybeyoumighthaveheardofhim;hisfatherwasadeacon——Baptist——andhewasarustler,too;amanhadtogetuprutherearlytogetthestartofoldThankfulYates;itwashimthatputtheGreensuptojiningteamswithmygrandfatherwhenhemovedwest。 SethGreenwasprob\'lythepickoftheflock;hemarriedaWilkerson—— SarahWilkerson——goodcretur,shewas——oneofthelikeliestheifersthatwaseverraisedinoldStoddard,everybodysaidthatknowedher。Shecouldheftabar\'lofflouraseasyasIcanflirtaflapjack。Andspin? Don\'tmentionit!Independent?Humph!WhenSileHawkinscomeabrowsingaroundher,shelethimknowthatforallhistinhecouldn\'ttrotinharnessalongsideofher。Yousee,SileHawkinswas——no,itwarn\'tSileHawkins,afterall——itwasagalootbythenameofFilkins—— Idisrememberhisfirstname;buthewasastump——comeintopra\'rmeetingdrunk,onenight,hoorayingforNixon,becuzhethoughtitwasaprimary; andolddeaconFergusonupandscootedhimthroughthewindowandhelitonoldMissJefferson\'shead,pooroldfilly。Shewasagoodsoul——hadaglasseyeandusedtolendittooldMissWagner,thathadn\'tany,toreceivecompanyin;itwarn\'tbigenough,andwhenMissWagnerwarn\'tnoticing,itwouldgettwistedaroundinthesocket,andlookup,maybe,orouttooneside,andeverywhichway,whilet\'otheronewaslookingasstraightaheadasaspy-glass。 Grownpeopledidn\'tmindit,butitmostalwaysmadethechildrencry,itwassosortofscary。Shetriedpackingitinrawcotton,butitwouldn\'twork,somehow——thecottonwouldgetlooseandstickoutandlooksokindofawfulthatthechildrencouldn\'tstanditnoway。Shewasalwaysdroppingitout,andturningupherolddead-lightonthecompanyempty,andmakingthemoncomfortable,becuzshenevercouldtellwhenithoppedout,beingblindonthatside,yousee。Sosomebodywouldhavetohunchherandsay,“Yourgameeyehasfetchedloose。MissWagnerdear“—— andthenallofthemwouldhavetositandwaittillshejammeditinagain——wrongsidebefore,asageneralthing,andgreenasabird\'segg,beingabashfulcreturandeasysotbackbeforecompany。Butbeingwrongsidebeforewarn\'tmuchdifference,anyway;becuzherowneyewassky- blueandtheglassonewasyalleronthefrontside,sowhicheverwaysheturnedititdidn\'tmatchnohow。 OldMissWagnerwasconsiderableontheborrow,shewas。Whenshehadaquilting,orDorcasS\'ietyatherhouseshegen\'allyborrowedMissHiggins\'swoodenlegtostumparoundon;itwasconsiderableshorterthanherotherpin,butmuchshemindedthat。Shesaidshecouldn\'tabidecrutcheswhenshehadcompany,becuztheyweresoslow;saidwhenshehadcompanyandthingshadtobedone,shewantedtogetupandhumpherself。 Shewasasbaldasajug,andsosheusedtoborrowMissJacops\'swig—— MissJacopswasthecoffin-peddler\'swife——arattyoldbuzzard,hewas,thatusedtogoroostingaroundwherepeoplewassick,waitingfor\'em; andtherethatoldripwouldsitallday,intheshade,onacoffinthathejudgedwouldfitthecan\'idate;andifitwasaslowcustomerandkindofuncertain,he\'dfetchhisrationsandablanketalongandsleepinthecoffinnights。Hewasanchoredoutthatway,infrostyweather,foraboutthreeweeks,once,beforeoldRobbins\'splace,waitingforhim;andafterthat,forasmuchastwoyears,Jacopswasnotonspeakingtermswiththeoldman,onaccountofhisdisapp\'intinghim。Hegotoneofhisfeetfroze,andlostmoney,too,becuzoldRobbinstookafavorableturnandgotwell。ThenexttimeRobbinsgotsick,Jacopstriedtomakeupwithhim,andvarnishedupthesameoldcoffinandfetcheditalong;butoldRobbinswastoomanyforhim;hehadhimin,and\'pearedtobepowerfulweak;heboughtthecoffinfortendollarsandJacopswastopayitbackandtwenty-fivemorebesidesifRobbinsdidn\'tlikethecoffinafterhe\'dtriedit。AndthenRobbinsdied,andatthefuneralheburstedoffthelidandrizupinhisshroudandtoldtheparsontoletupontheperformances,becuzhecouldnotstandsuchacoffinasthat。 Youseehehadbeeninatranceoncebefore,whenhewasyoung,andhetookthechancesonanother,cal\'latingthatifhemadethetripitwasmoneyinhispocket,andifhemissedfirehecouldn\'tloseacent。AndbyGeorgehesuedJacopsfortherhinoandgotjedgment;andhesetupthecoffininhisbackparlorandsaidhe\'lowedtotakehistime,now。 ItwasalwaysanaggravationtoJacops,thewaythatmiserableoldthingacted。HemovedbacktoIndianyprettysoon——wenttoWellsville—— WellsvillewastheplacetheHogadornswasfrom。Mightyfinefamily。 OldMarylandstock。OldSquireHogadorncouldcarryaroundmoremixedlicker,andcussbetterthanmostanymanIeversee。HissecondwifewasthewidderBillings——shethatwasBeckyMartin;herdamwasdeaconDunlap\'sfirstwife。Heroldestchild,Maria,marriedamissionaryanddiedingrace——etupbythesavages。Theyethim,too,poorfeller—— biledhim。Itwarn\'tthecustom,sotheysay,buttheyexplainedtofriendsofhis\'nthatwentdowntheretobringawayhisthings,thatthey\'dtriedmissionarieseveryotherwayandnevercouldgetanygoodoutof\'em——andsoitannoyedallhisrelationstofindoutthatthatman\'slifewasfooledawayjustoutofadern\'dexperiment,sotospeak。 Butmindyou,thereain\'tanythingeverreelylost;everythingthatpeoplecan\'tunderstandanddon\'tseethereasonofdoesgoodifyouonlyholdonandgiveitafairshake;Prov\'dencedon\'tfirenoblankca\'tridges,boys。Thattheremissionary\'ssubstance,unbeknownstohimself,actu\'lyconvertedeverylastoneofthemheathensthattookachanceatthebarbacue。Nothingeverfetchedthembutthat。Don\'ttellmeitwasanaccidentthathewasbiled。Thereain\'tnosuchathingasanaccident。 WhenmyuncleLemwasleaningupaginascaffoldingonce,sick,ordrunk,orsuthin,anIrishmanwithahodfullofbricksfellonhimoutofthethirdstoryandbroketheoldman\'sbackintwoplaces。Peoplesaiditwasanaccident。Muchaccidenttherewasaboutthat。Hedidn\'tknowwhathewastherefor,buthewasthereforagoodobject。Ifhehadn\'tbeentheretheIrishmanwouldhavebeenkilled。Nobodycanevermakemebelieveanythingdifferentfromthat。UncleLem\'sdogwasthere。Whydidn\'ttheIrishmanfallonthedog?Becuzthedogwouldaseenhimacomingandstoodfromunder。That\'sthereasonthedogwarn\'tappinted。 Adogcan\'tbedependedontocarryoutaspecialprovidence。Markmywordsitwasaput-upthing。Accidentsdon\'thappen,boys。UncleLem\'sdog——Iwishyoucouldaseenthatdog。Hewasareglarshepherd——orrutherhewaspartbullandpartshepherd——splendidanimal;belongedtoparsonHagarbeforeUncleLemgothim。ParsonHagarbelongedtotheWesternReserveHagars;primefamily;hismotherwasaWatson;oneofhissistersmarriedaWheeler;theysettledinMorgancounty,andhegotnippedbythemachineryinacarpetfactoryandwentthroughinlessthanaquarterofaminute;hiswidderboughtthepieceofcarpetthathadhisremainswovein,andpeoplecomeahundredmileto\'tendthefuneral。 Therewasfourteenyardsinthepiece。 Shewouldn\'tletthemrollhimup,butplantedhimjustso——fulllength。 Thechurchwasmiddlingsmallwheretheypreachedthefuneral,andtheyhadtoletoneendofthecoffinstickoutofthewindow。Theydidn\'tburyhim——theyplantedoneend,andlethimstandup,sameasamonument。 Andtheynailedasignonitandput——puton——putonit——sacredto——them-e-m-o-r-y——offourteeny-a-r-d-s——ofthree-ply——car——pet——containingallthatwas——m-o-r-t-a-l——of——of——W-i-l-l-i-a-m——W-h-e——“ JimBlainehadbeengrowinggraduallydrowsyanddrowsier——hisheadnodded,once,twice,threetimes——droppedpeacefullyuponhisbreast,andhefelltranquillyasleep。Thetearswererunningdowntheboys\'cheeks——theyweresuffocatingwithsuppressedlaughter——andhadbeenfromthestart,thoughIhadnevernoticedit。IperceivedthatIwas“sold。” IlearnedthenthatJimBlaine\'speculiaritywasthatwheneverhereachedacertainstageofintoxication,nohumanpowercouldkeephimfromsettingout,withimpressiveunction,totellaboutawonderfuladventurewhichhehadoncehadwithhisgrandfather\'soldram——andthementionoftheraminthefirstsentencewasasfarasanymanhadeverheardhimget,concerningit。Healwaysmaunderedoff,interminably,fromonethingtoanother,tillhiswhiskygotthebestofhimandhefellasleep。 Whatthethingwasthathappenedtohimandhisgrandfather\'soldramisadarkmysterytothisday,fornobodyhaseveryetfoundout。 CHAPTERLIV。 OfcoursetherewasalargeChinesepopulationinVirginia——itisthecasewitheverytownandcityonthePacificcoast。Theyareaharmlessracewhenwhitemeneitherletthemaloneortreatthemnoworsethandogs;infacttheyarealmostentirelyharmlessanyhow,fortheyseldomthinkofresentingthevilestinsultsorthecruelestinjuries。Theyarequiet,peaceable,tractable,freefromdrunkenness,andtheyareasindustriousasthedayislong。AdisorderlyChinamanisrare,andalazyonedoesnotexist。SolongasaChinamanhasstrengthtousehishandsheneedsnosupportfromanybody;whitemenoftencomplainofwantofwork,butaChinamanoffersnosuchcomplaint;healwaysmanagestofindsomethingtodo。Heisagreatconveniencetoeverybody——eventotheworstclassofwhitemen,forhebearsthemostoftheirsins,sufferingfinesfortheirpettythefts,imprisonmentfortheirrobberies,anddeathfortheirmurders。AnywhitemancanswearaChinaman\'slifeawayinthecourts,butnoChinamancantestifyagainstawhiteman。 Oursisthe“landofthefree“——nobodydeniesthat——nobodychallengesit。 [Maybeitisbecausewewon\'tletotherpeopletestify。]AsIwrite,newscomesthatinbroaddaylightinSanFrancisco,someboyshavestonedaninoffensiveChinamantodeath,andthatalthoughalargecrowdwitnessedtheshamefuldeed,nooneinterfered。 Thereareseventythousand(andpossiblyonehundredthousand)ChinamenonthePacificcoast。TherewereaboutathousandinVirginia。Theywerepennedintoa“Chinesequarter“——athingwhichtheydonotparticularlyobjectto,astheyarefondofherdingtogether。Theirbuildingswereofwood;usuallyonlyonestoryhigh,andsetthicklytogetheralongstreetsscarcelywideenoughforawagontopassthrough。 Theirquarterwasalittleremovedfromtherestofthetown。ThechiefemploymentofChinamenintownsistowashclothing。Theyalwayssendabill,likethisbelow,pinnedtotheclothes。Itismereceremony,foritdoesnotenlightenthecustomermuch。Theirpriceforwashingwas$2。50perdozen——rathercheaperthanwhitepeoplecouldaffordtowashforatthattime。AverycommonsignontheChinesehouseswas:“SeeYup,WasherandIroner“;“HongWo,Washer“;“SamSing&AhHop,Washing。” Thehouseservants,cooks,etc。,inCaliforniaandNevada,werechieflyChinamen。TherewerefewwhiteservantsandnoChinawomensoemployed。 Chinamenmakegoodhouseservants,beingquick,obedient,patient,quicktolearnandtirelesslyindustrious。Theydonotneedtobetaughtathingtwice,asageneralthing。Theyareimitative。IfaChinamanweretoseehismasterbreakupacentretable,inapassion,andkindleafirewithit,thatChinamanwouldbelikelytoresorttothefurnitureforfuelforeverafterward。 AllChinamencanread,writeandcipherwitheasyfacility——pitybutallourpettedvoterscould。InCaliforniatheyrentlittlepatchesofgroundanddoadealofgardening。Theywillraisesurprisingcropsofvegetablesonasandpile。Theywastenothing。WhatisrubbishtoaChristian,aChinamancarefullypreservesandmakesusefulinonewayoranother。Hegathersupalltheoldoysterandsardinecansthatwhitepeoplethrowaway,andprocuresmarketabletinandsolderfromthembymelting。Hegathersupoldbonesandturnsthemintomanure。 InCaliforniahegetsalivingoutofoldminingclaimsthatwhitemenhaveabandonedasexhaustedandworthless——andthentheofficerscomedownonhimonceamonthwithanexorbitantswindletowhichthelegislaturehasgiventhebroad,generalnameof“foreign“miningtax,butitisusuallyinflictedonnoforeignersbutChinamen。Thisswindlehasinsomecasesbeenrepeatedonceortwiceonthesamevictiminthecourseofthesamemonth——butthepublictreasurywasnoadditionallyenrichedbyit,probably。 Chinamenholdtheirdeadingreatreverence——theyworshiptheirdepartedancestors,infact。Hence,inChina,aman\'sfrontyard,backyard,oranyotherpartofhispremises,ismadehisfamilyburyingground,inorderthathemayvisitthegravesatanyandalltimes。Thereforethathugeempireisonemightycemetery;itisridgedandwringledfromitscentretoitscircumferencewithgraves——andinasmuchaseveryfootofgroundmustbemadetodoitsutmost,inChina,lesttheswarmingpopulationsufferforfood,theverygravesarecultivatedandyieldaharvest,customholdingthistobenodishonortothedead。Sincethedepartedareheldinsuchworshipfulreverence,aChinamancannotbearthatanyindignitybeofferedtheplaceswheretheysleep。 Mr。BurlingamesaidthathereinlayChina\'sbitteroppositiontorailroads;aroadcouldnotbebuiltanywhereintheempirewithoutdisturbingthegravesoftheirancestorsorfriends。 AChinamanhardlybelieveshecouldenjoythehereafterexcepthisbodylayinhisbelovedChina;also,hedesirestoreceive,himself,afterdeath,thatworshipwithwhichhehashonoredhisdeadthatprecededhim。 Therefore,ifhevisitsaforeigncountry,hemakesarrangementstohavehisbonesreturnedtoChinaincasehedies;ifhehirestogotoaforeigncountryonalaborcontract,thereisalwaysastipulationthathisbodyshallbetakenbacktoChinaifhedies;ifthegovernmentsellsagangofCooliestoaforeignerfortheusualfive-yearterm,itisspecifiedinthecontractthattheirbodiesshallberestoredtoChinaincaseofdeath。OnthePacificcoasttheChinamenallbelongtooneoranotherofseveralgreatcompaniesororganizations,andthesecompanieskeeptrackoftheirmembers,registertheirnames,andshiptheirbodieshomewhentheydie。TheSeeYupCompanyisheldtobethelargestofthese。TheNingYeongCompanyisnext,andnumberseighteenthousandmembersonthecoast。ItsheadquartersareatSanFrancisco,whereithasacostlytemple,severalgreatofficers(oneofwhomkeepsregalstateinseclusionandcannotbeapproachedbycommonhumanity),andanumerouspriesthood。InitIwasshownaregisterofitsmembers,withthedeadandthedateoftheirshipmenttoChinadulymarked。EveryshipthatsailsfromSanFranciscocarriesawayaheavyfreightofChinesecorpses——ordid,atleast,untilthelegislature,withaningeniousrefinementofChristiancruelty,forbadetheshipments,asaneatunderhandedwayofdeterringChineseimmigration。Thebillwasoffered,whetheritpassedornot。Itismyimpressionthatitpassed。Therewasanotherbill——itbecamealaw——compellingeveryincomingChinamantobevaccinatedonthewharfandpayadulyappointedquack(nodecentdoctorwoulddefilehimselfwithsuchlegalizedrobbery)tendollarsforit。 AsfewimportersofChinesewouldwanttogotoanexpenselikethat,thelaw-makersthoughtthiswouldbeanotherheavyblowtoChineseimmigration。 WhattheChinesequarterofVirginiawaslike——or,indeed,whattheChinesequarterofanyPacificcoasttownwasandislike——maybegatheredfromthisitemwhichIprintedintheEnterprisewhilereportingforthatpaper: CHINATOWN——Accompaniedbyafellowreporter,wemadeatripthroughourChinesequartertheothernight。TheChinesehavebuilttheirportionofthecitytosuitthemselves;andastheykeepneithercarriagesnorwagons,theirstreetsarenotwideenough,asageneralthing,toadmitofthepassageofvehicles。Atteno\'clockatnighttheChinamanmaybeseeninallhisglory。Ineverylittlecooped-up,dingycavernofahut,faintwiththeodorofburningJosh-lightsandwithnothingtoseethegloombysavethesickly,gutteringtallowcandle,weretwoorthreeyellow,long-tailedvagabonds,coileduponasortofshorttruckle-bed,smokingopium,motionlessandwiththeirlustrelesseyesturnedinwardfromexcessofsatisfaction——orrathertherecentsmokerlooksthus,immediatelyafterhavingpassedthepipetohisneighbor——foropium-smokingisacomfortlessoperation,andrequiresconstantattention。Alampsitsonthebed,thelengthofthelongpipe-stemfromthesmoker\'smouth;heputsapelletofopiumontheendofawire,setsitonfire,andplastersitintothepipemuchasaChristianwouldfillaholewithputty;thenheappliesthebowltothelampandproceedstosmoke——andthestewingandfryingofthedrugandthegurglingofthejuicesinthestemwouldwell-nighturnthestomachofastatue。 Johnlikesit,though;itsootheshim,hetakesabouttwodozenwhiffs,andthenrollsovertodream,Heavenonlyknowswhat,forwecouldnotimaginebylookingatthesoggycreature。Possiblyinhisvisionshetravelsfarawayfromthegrossworldandhisregularwashing,andfeastonsucculentratsandbirds\'-nestsinParadise。 Mr。AhSingkeepsageneralgroceryandprovisionstoreatNo。13Wangstreet。Helavishedhishospitalityuponourpartyinthefriendliestway。Hehadvariouskindsofcoloredandcolorlesswinesandbrandies,withunpronouncablenames,importedfromChinainlittlecrockeryjugs,andwhichheofferedtousindaintylittleminiaturewash-basinsofporcelain。Heofferedusamessofbirds\'-nests;also,small,neatsausages,ofwhichwecouldhaveswallowedseveralyardsifwehadchosentotry,butwesuspectedthateachlinkcontainedthecorpseofamouse,andthereforerefrained。Mr。Singhadinhisstoreathousandarticlesofmerchandise,curioustobehold,impossibletoimaginetheusesof,andbeyondourabilitytodescribe。 Hisducks,however,andhiseggs,wecouldunderstand;theformerweresplitopenandflattenedoutlikecodfish,andcamefromChinainthatshape,andthelatterwereplasteredoverwithsomekindofpastewhichkeptthemfreshandpalatablethroughthelongvoyage。 WefoundMr。HongWo,No。37Chow-chowstreet,makingupalotteryscheme——infactwefoundadozenothersoccupiedinthesamewayinvariouspartsofthequarter,forabouteverythirdChinamanrunsalottery,andthebalanceofthetribe“buck“atit。“Tom,“whospeaksfaultlessEnglish,andusedtobechiefandonlycooktotheTerritorialEnterprise,whentheestablishmentkeptbachelor\'shalltwoyearsago,saidthat“SometimeChinamanbuyticketonedollarhap,ketchumtwotreehundred,sometimenoketchumanything;lotterylikeonemanfightumseventy——may-behewhip,may-behegetwhipheself,wellygood。” However,thepercentagebeingsixty-nineagainsthim,thechancesare,asageneralthing,that“hegetwhipheself。”Wecouldnotseethattheselotteriesdifferedinanyrespectfromourown,savethatthefiguresbeingChinese,noignorantwhitemanmighteverhopetosucceedintelling“t\'otherfromwhich;“themannerofdrawingissimilartoours。 Mr。SeeYupkeepsafancystoreonLiveFoxstreet。Hesoldusfansofwhitefeathers,gorgeouslyornamented;perfumerythatsmelledlikeLimburgercheese,Chinesepens,andwatch-charmsmadeofastoneunscratchablewithsteelinstruments,yetpolishedandtintedliketheinnercoatofasea-shell。Astokensofhisesteem,SeeYuppresentedthepartywithgaudyplumesmadeofgoldtinselandtrimmedwithpeacocks\'feathers。 Weatechow-chowwithchop-sticksinthecelestialrestaurants;ourcomradechidedthemoon-eyeddamselsinfrontofthehousesfortheirwantoffemininereserve;wereceivedprotectingJosh-lightsfromourhostsand“dickered“forapaganGodortwo。Finally,wewereimpressedwiththegeniusofaChinesebook-keeper;hefigureduphisaccountsonamachinelikeagridironwithbuttonsstrungonitsbars;thedifferentrowsrepresentedunits,tens,hundredsandthousands。Hefingeredthemwithincrediblerapidity——infact,hepushedthemfromplacetoplaceasfastasamusicalprofessor\'sfingerstraveloverthekeysofapiano。 Theyareakindlydisposed,well-meaningrace,andarerespectedandwelltreatedbytheupperclasses,alloverthePacificcoast。NoCaliforniangentlemanorladyeverabusesoroppressesaChinaman,underanycircumstances,anexplanationthatseemstobemuchneededintheEast。 Onlythescumofthepopulationdoit——theyandtheirchildren;they,and,naturallyandconsistently,thepolicemenandpoliticians,likewise,forthesearethedust-lickingpimpsandslavesofthescum,thereaswellaselsewhereinAmerica。 CHAPTERLV。 Ibegantogettiredofstayinginoneplacesolong。 TherewasnolongersatisfyingvarietyingoingdowntoCarsontoreporttheproceedingsofthelegislatureonceayear,andhorse-racesandpumpkin-showsonceinthreemonths;(theyhadgottoraisingpumpkinsandpotatoesinWashoeValley,andofcourseoneofthefirstachievementsofthelegislaturewastoinstituteaten-thousand-dollarAgriculturalFairtoshowofffortydollars\'worthofthosepumpkinsin——however,theterritoriallegislaturewasusuallyspokenofasthe“asylum“)。IwantedtoseeSanFrancisco。Iwantedtogosomewhere。Iwanted——IdidnotknowwhatIwanted。Ihadthe“springfever“andwantedachange,principally,nodoubt。Besides,aconventionhadframedaStateConstitution;ninemenoutofeverytenwantedanoffice;Ibelievedthatthesegentlemenwould“treat“themoneylessandtheirresponsibleamongthepopulationintoadoptingtheconstitutionandthuswell-nighkillingthecountry(itcouldnotwellcarrysuchaloadasaStategovernment,sinceithadnothingtotaxthatcouldstandatax,forundevelopedminescouldnot,andtherewerenotfiftydevelopedonesintheland,therewasbutlittlerealtytotax,anditdidseemasifnobodywasevergoingtothinkofthesimplesalvationofinflictingamoneypenaltyonmurder)。 IbelievedthataStategovernmentwoulddestroythe“flushtimes,“andI wantedtogetaway。IbelievedthattheminingstocksIhadonhandwouldsoonbeworth$100,000,andthoughtiftheyreachedthatbeforetheConstitutionwasadopted,Iwouldselloutandmakemyselfsecurefromthecrashthechangeofgovernmentwasgoingtobring。Iconsidered$100,000sufficienttogohomewithdecently,thoughitwasbutasmallamountcomparedtowhatIhadbeenexpectingtoreturnwith。Ifeltratherdown-heartedaboutit,butItriedtocomfortmyselfwiththereflectionthatwithsuchasumIcouldnotfallintowant。AboutthistimeaschoolmateofminewhomIhadnotseensinceboyhood,cametrampinginonfootfromReeseRiver,averyallegoryofPoverty。 Thesonofwealthyparents,herehewas,inastrangeland,hungry,bootless,mantledinanancienthorse-blanket,roofedwithabrimlesshat,andsogenerallyandsoextravagantlydilapidatedthathecouldhave“takentheshineoutoftheProdigalSonhimself,“ashepleasantlyremarked。 Hewantedtoborrowforty-sixdollars——twenty-sixtotakehimtoSanFrancisco,andtwentyforsomethingelse;tobuysomesoapwith,maybe,forheneededit。IfoundIhadbutlittlemorethantheamountwanted,inmypocket;soIsteppedinandborrowedforty-sixdollarsofabanker(ontwentydays\'time,withouttheformalityofanote),andgaveithim,ratherthanwalkhalfablocktotheoffice,whereIhadsomespecielaidup。Ifanybodyhadtoldmethatitwouldtakemetwoyearstopaybackthatforty-sixdollarstothebanker(forIdidnotexpectitoftheProdigal,andwasnotdisappointed),Iwouldhavefeltinjured。Andsowouldthebanker。 Iwantedachange。Iwantedvarietyofsomekind。Itcame。Mr。Goodmanwentawayforaweekandleftmethepostofchiefeditor。Itdestroyedme。Thefirstday,Iwrotemy“leader“intheforenoon。Thesecondday,Ihadnosubjectandputitofftilltheafternoon。ThethirddayIputitofftillevening,andthencopiedanelaborateeditorialoutofthe“AmericanCyclopedia,“thatsteadfastfriendoftheeditor,alloverthisland。ThefourthdayI“fooledaround“tillmidnight,andthenfellbackontheCyclopediaagain。ThefifthdayIcudgeledmybraintillmidnight,andthenkeptthepresswaitingwhileIpennedsomebitterpersonalitiesonsixdifferentpeople。ThesixthdayIlaboredinanguishtillfarintothenightandbroughtforth——nothing。Thepaperwenttopresswithoutaneditorial。TheseventhdayIresigned。Ontheeighth,Mr。Goodmanreturnedandfoundsixduelsonhishands——mypersonalitieshadbornefruit。 Nobody,excepthehastriedit,knowswhatitistobeaneditor。Itiseasytoscribblelocalrubbish,withthefactsallbeforeyou;itiseasytoclipselectionsfromotherpapers;itiseasytostringoutacorrespondencefromanylocality;butitisunspeakablehardshiptowriteeditorials。Subjectsarethetrouble——thedrearylackofthem,Imean。 Everyday,itisdrag,drag,drag——think,andworryandsuffer——alltheworldisadullblank,andyettheeditorialcolumnsmustbefilled。 Onlygivetheeditorasubject,andhisworkisdone——itisnotroubletowriteitup;butfancyhowyouwouldfeelifyouhadtopumpyourbrainsdryeverydayintheweek,fifty-twoweeksintheyear。Itmakesonelowspiritedsimplytothinkofit。ThematterthateacheditorofadailypaperinAmericawritesinthecourseofayearwouldfillfromfourtoeightbulkyvolumeslikethisbook!Fancywhatalibraryaneditor\'sworkwouldmake,aftertwentyorthirtyyears\'service。YetpeopleoftenmarvelthatDickens,Scott,Bulwer,Dumas,etc。,havebeenabletoproducesomanybooks。Iftheseauthorshadwroughtasvoluminouslyasnewspapereditorsdo,theresultwouldbesomethingtomarvelat,indeed。 Howeditorscancontinuethistremendouslabor,thisexhaustingconsumptionofbrainfibre(fortheirworkiscreative,andnotameremechanicallaying-upoffacts,likereporting),dayafterdayandyearafteryear,isincomprehensible。Preacherstaketwomonths\'holidayinmidsummer,fortheyfindthattoproducetwosermonsaweekiswearing,inthelongrun。Intruthitmustbeso,andisso;andtherefore,howaneditorcantakefromtentotwentytextsandbuilduponthemfromtentotwentypainstakingeditorialsaweekandkeepitupalltheyearround,isfartherbeyondcomprehensionthanever。EversinceIsurvivedmyweekaseditor,Ihavefoundatleastonepleasureinanynewspaperthatcomestomyhand;itisinadmiringthelongcolumnsofeditorial,andwonderingtomyselfhowinthemischiefhedidit! Mr。Goodman\'sreturnrelievedmeofemployment,unlessIchosetobecomeareporteragain。Icouldnotdothat;IcouldnotserveintheranksafterbeingGeneralofthearmy。SoIthoughtIwoulddepartandgoabroadintotheworldsomewhere。Justatthisjuncture,Dan,myassociateinthereportorialdepartment,toldme,casually,thattwocitizenshadbeentryingtopersuadehimtogowiththemtoNewYorkandaidinsellingarichsilverminewhichtheyhaddiscoveredandsecuredinanewminingdistrictinourneighborhood。Hesaidtheyofferedtopayhisexpensesandgivehimonethirdoftheproceedsofthesale。 Hehadrefusedtogo。ItwastheveryopportunityIwanted。Iabusedhimforkeepingsoquietaboutit,andnotmentioningitsooner。HesaidithadnotoccurredtohimthatIwouldliketogo,andsohehadrecommendedthemtoapplytoMarshall,thereporteroftheotherpaper。 IaskedDanifitwasagood,honestmine,andnoswindle。Hesaidthemenhadshownhimninetonsoftherock,whichtheyhadgotouttotaketoNewYork,andhecouldcheerfullysaythathehadseenbutlittlerockinNevadathatwasricher;andmoreover,hesaidthattheyhadsecuredatractofvaluabletimberandamill-site,nearthemine。MyfirstideawastokillDan。ButIchangedmymind,notwithstandingIwassoangry,forIthoughtmaybethechancewasnotyetlost。Dansaiditwasbynomeanslost;thatthemenwereabsentatthemineagain,andwouldnotbeinVirginiatoleavefortheEastforsometendays;thattheyhadrequestedhimtodothetalkingtoMarshall,andhehadpromisedthathewouldeithersecureMarshallorsomebodyelseforthembythetimetheygotback;hewouldnowsaynothingtoanybodytilltheyreturned,andthenfulfilhispromisebyfurnishingmetothem。 Itwassplendid。Iwenttobedallonfirewithexcitement;fornobodyhadyetgoneEasttosellaNevadasilvermine,andthefieldwaswhiteforthesickle。IfeltthatsuchamineastheonedescribedbyDanwouldbringaprincelysuminNewYork,andsellwithoutdelayordifficulty。Icouldnotsleep,myfancysoriotedthroughitscastlesintheair。Itwasthe“blindlead“comeagain。 NextdayIgotaway,onthecoach,withtheusualeclatattendingdeparturesofoldcitizens,——forifyouhaveonlyhalfadozenfriendsouttheretheywillmakenoiseforahundredratherthanletyouseemtogoawayneglectedandunregretted——andDanpromisedtokeepstrictwatchforthementhathadtheminetosell。 Thetripwassignalizedbutbyonelittleincident,andthatoccurredjustaswewereabouttostart。Averyseedylookingvagabondpassengergotoutofthestageamomenttowaittilltheusualballastofsilverbrickswasthrownin。Hewasstandingonthepavement,whenanawkwardexpressemployee,carryingabrickweighingahundredpounds,stumbledandletitfallonthebummer\'sfoot。Heinstantlydroppedonthegroundandbegantohowlinthemostheart-breakingway。Asympathizingcrowdgatheredaroundandweregoingtopullhisbootoff;buthescreamedlouderthaneverandtheydesisted;thenhefelltogasping,andbetweenthegaspsejaculated“Brandy!forHeaven\'ssake,brandy!“Theypouredhalfapintdownhim,anditwonderfullyrestoredandcomfortedhim。 Thenhebeggedthepeopletoassisthimtothestage,whichwasdone。 Theexpresspeopleurgedhimtohaveadoctorattheirexpense,buthedeclined,andsaidthatifheonlyhadalittlebrandytotakealongwithhim,tosoothehisparoxymsofpainwhentheycameon,hewouldbegratefulandcontent。Hewasquicklysuppliedwithtwobottles,andwedroveoff。Hewassosmilingandhappyafterthat,thatIcouldnotrefrainfromaskinghimhowhecouldpossiblybesocomfortablewithacrushedfoot。 “Well,“saidhe,“Ihadn\'thadadrinkfortwelvehours,andhadn\'tacenttomyname。Iwasmostperishing——andso,whenthatdufferdroppedthathundred-pounderonmyfoot,Iseemychance。Gotacorkleg,youknow!“andhepulleduphispantaloonsandprovedit。 Hewasasdrunkasalordalldaylong,andfullofchucklingsoverhistimelyingenuity。 Onedrunkenmannecessarilyremindsoneofanother。IonceheardagentlemantellaboutanincidentwhichhewitnessedinaCalifornianbar- room。Heentitledit“YeModestManTakethaDrink。”Itwasnothingbutabitofacting,butitseemedtomeaperfectrendering,andworthyofToodleshimself。Themodestman,tolerablyfargonewithbeerandothermatters,entersasaloon(twenty-fivecentsisthepriceforanythingandeverything,andspecietheonlymoneyused)andlaysdownahalfdollar; callsforwhiskeyanddrinksit;thebar-keepermakeschangeandlaysthequarterinawetplaceonthecounter;themodestmanfumblesatitwithnervelessfingers,butitslipsandthewaterholdsit;hecontemplatesit,andtriesagain;sameresult;observesthatpeopleareinterestedinwhatheisat,blushes;fumblesatthequarteragain——blushes——putshisforefingercarefully,slowlydown,tomakesureofhisaim——pushesthecointowardthebar-keeper,andsayswithasigh: “Gimmeacigar!“ Naturally,anothergentlemanpresenttoldaboutanotherdrunkenman。Hesaidhereeledtowardhomelateatnight;madeamistakeandenteredthewronggate;thoughthesawadogonthestoop;anditwas——anironone。 Hestoppedandconsidered;wonderedifitwasadangerousdog;venturedtosay“Be(hic)begone!“Noeffect。Thenheapproachedwarily,andadoptedconciliation;purseduphislipsandtriedtowhistle,butfailed;stillapproached,saying,“Poordog!——doggy,doggy,doggy!——poordoggy-dog!“Gotuponthestoop,stillpettingwithfondnames;tillmasteroftheadvantages;thenexclaimed,“Leave,youthief!“——plantedavindictivekickinhisribs,andwenthead-over-heelsoverboard,ofcourse。Apause;asighortwoofpain,andthenaremarkinareflectivevoice: “Awfulsoliddog。Whatcouldhebeneating?(\'ic!)Rocks,p\'raps。 Suchanimalsisdangerous——\'At\'swhatIsay——they\'redangerous。Ifaman——(\'ic!)——ifamanwantstofeedadogonrocks,lethimfeedhimonrocks;\'at\'sallright;butlethimkeephimathome——nothavehimlayin\' roundpromiscuous,where(\'ic!)wherepeople\'sliabletostumbleoverhimwhentheyain\'tnoticin\'!“ ItwasnotwithoutregretthatItookalastlookatthetinyflag(itwasthirty-fivefeetlongandtenfeetwide)flutteringlikealady\'shandkerchieffromthetopmostpeakofMountDavidson,twothousandfeetaboveVirginia\'sroofs,andfeltthatdoubtlessIwasbiddingapermanentfarewelltoacitywhichhadaffordedmethemostvigorousenjoymentoflifeIhadeverexperienced。AndthisremindsmeofanincidentwhichthedullestmemoryVirginiacouldboastatthetimeithappenedmustvividlyrecall,attimes,tillitspossessordies。Lateonesummerafternoonwehadarainshower。 Thatwasastonishingenough,initself,tosetthewholetownbuzzing,foritonlyrains(duringaweekortwoweeks)inthewinterinNevada,andeventhennotenoughatatimetomakeitworthwhileforanymerchanttokeepumbrellasforsale。Buttherainwasnotthechiefwonder。Itonlylastedfiveortenminutes;whilethepeoplewerestilltalkingaboutitalltheheavensgatheredtothemselvesadenseblacknessasofmidnight。AllthevasteasternfrontofMountDavidson,over- lookingthecity,putonsuchafunerealgloomthatonlythenearnessandsolidityofthemountainmadeitsoutlinesevenfaintlydistinguishablefromthedeadblacknessoftheheavenstheyrestedagainst。Thisunaccustomedsightturnedalleyestowardthemountain;andastheylooked,alittletongueofrichgoldenflamewasseenwavingandquiveringintheheartofthemidnight,awayupontheextremesummit! Inafewminutesthestreetswerepackedwithpeople,gazingwithhardlyanutteredword,attheonebrilliantmoteinthebroodingworldofdarkness。Itflickedlikeacandle-flame,andlookednolarger;butwithsuchabackgrounditwaswonderfullybright,smallasitwas。Itwastheflag!——thoughnoonesuspecteditatfirst,itseemedsolikeasupernaturalvisitorofsomekind——amysteriousmessengerofgoodtidings,somewerefaintobelieve。Itwasthenation\'semblemtransfiguredbythedepartingraysofasunthatwasentirelypalledfromview;andonnootherobjectdidthegloryfall,inallthebroadpanoramaofmountainrangesanddeserts。Notevenuponthestaffoftheflag——forthat,aneedleinthedistanceatanytime,wasnowuntouchedbythelightandundistinguishableinthegloom。Forawholehourtheweirdvisitorwinkedandburnedinitsloftysolitude,andstillthethousandsofupliftedeyeswatcheditwithfascinatedinterest。Howthepeoplewerewroughtup!Thesuperstitiongrewapacethatthiswasamysticcouriercomewithgreatnewsfromthewar——thepoetryoftheideaexcusingandcommendingit——andonitspread,fromhearttoheart,fromliptolipandfromstreettostreet,tilltherewasageneralimpulsetohaveoutthemilitaryandwelcomethebrightwaifwithasalvoofartillery! Andallthattimeonesorelytriedman,thetelegraphoperatorsworntoofficialsecrecy,hadtolockhislipsandchainhistonguewithasilencethatwasliketorendthem;forhe,andheonly,ofallthespeculatingmultitude,knewthegreatthingsthissinkingsunhadseenthatdayintheeast——Vicksburgfallen,andtheUnionarmsvictoriousatGettysburg! ButforthejournalisticmonopolythatforbadetheslightestrevealmentofeasternnewstilladayafteritspublicationintheCaliforniapapers,theglorifiedflagonMountDavidsonwouldhavebeensalutedandre-saluted,thatmemorableevening,aslongastherewasachargeofpowdertothunderwith;thecitywouldhavebeenilluminated,andeverymanthathadanyrespectforhimselfwouldhavegotdrunk,——aswasthecustomofthecountryonalloccasionsofpublicmoment。EvenatthisdistantdayIcannotthinkofthisneedlesslymarredsupremeopportunitywithoutregret。Whatatimewemighthavehad! CHAPTERLVI。 Werumbledovertheplainsandvalleys,climbedtheSierrastotheclouds,andlookeddownuponsummer-cladCalifornia。AndIwillremarkhere,inpassing,thatallsceneryinCaliforniarequiresdistancetogiveititshighestcharm。Themountainsareimposingintheirsublimityandtheirmajestyofformandaltitude,fromanypointofview——butonemusthavedistancetosoftentheirruggednessandenrichtheirtintings; aCalifornianforestisbestatalittledistance,forthereisasadpovertyofvarietyinspecies,thetreesbeingchieflyofonemonotonousfamily——redwood,pine,spruce,fir——andso,atanearviewthereisawearisomesamenessofattitudeintheirrigidarms,stretcheddownwardandoutwardinonecontinuedandreiteratedappealtoallmento“Sh!—— don\'tsayaword!——youmightdisturbsomebody!“Closeathand,too,thereisarelieflessandrelentlesssmellofpitchandturpentine;thereisaceaselessmelancholyintheirsighingandcomplainingfoliage;onewalksoverasoundlesscarpetofbeatenyellowbarkanddeadspinesofthefoliagetillhefeelslikeawanderingspiritbereftofafootfall; hetiresoftheendlesstuftsofneedlesandyearnsforsubstantial,shapelyleaves;helooksformossandgrasstolollupon,andfindsnone,forwherethereisnobarkthereisnakedclayanddirt,enemiestopensivemusingandcleanapparel。OftenagrassyplaininCalifornia,iswhatitshouldbe,butoften,too,itisbestcontemplatedatadistance,becausealthoughitsgrassbladesaretall,theystandupvindictivelystraightandself-sufficient,andareunsociablywideapart,withuncomelyspotsofbarrensandbetween。 OneofthequeerestthingsIknowof,istoheartouristsfrom“theStates“gointoecstasiesoverthelovelinessof“ever-bloomingCalifornia。”Andtheyalwaysdogointothatsortofecstasies。ButperhapstheywouldmodifythemiftheyknewhowoldCalifornians,withthememoryfulluponthemofthedust-coveredandquestionablesummergreensofCalifornian“verdure,“standastonished,andfilledwithworshippingadmiration,inthepresenceofthelavishrichness,thebrilliantgreen,theinfinitefreshness,thespend-thriftvarietyofformandspeciesandfoliagethatmakeanEasternlandscapeavisionofParadiseitself。TheideaofamanfallingintorapturesovergraveandsombreCalifornia,whenthatmanhasseenNewEngland\'smeadow-expansesandhermaples,oaksandcathedral-windowedelmsdeckedinsummerattire,ortheopalinesplendorsofautumndescendinguponherforests,comesverynearbeingfunny——wouldbe,infact,butthatitissopathetic。 Nolandwithanunvaryingclimatecanbeverybeautiful。Thetropicsarenot,forallthesentimentthatiswastedonthem。Theyseembeautifulatfirst,butsamenessimpairsthecharmbyandby。ChangeisthehandmaidenNaturerequirestodohermiracleswith。Thelandthathasfourwell-definedseasons,cannotlackbeauty,orpallwithmonotony。 Eachseasonbringsaworldofenjoymentandinterestinthewatchingofitsunfolding,itsgradual,harmoniousdevelopment,itsculminatinggraces——andjustasonebeginstotireofit,itpassesawayandaradicalchangecomes,withnewwitcheriesandnewgloriesinitstrain。 AndIthinkthattooneinsympathywithnature,eachseason,initsturn,seemstheloveliest。 SanFrancisco,atrulyfascinatingcitytolivein,isstatelyandhandsomeatafairdistance,butcloseathandonenotesthatthearchitectureismostlyold-fashioned,manystreetsaremadeupofdecaying,smoke-grimed,woodenhouses,andthebarrensand-hillstowardtheoutskirtsobtrudethemselvestooprominently。Eventhekindlyclimateissometimespleasanterwhenreadaboutthanpersonallyexperienced,foralovely,cloudlessskywearsoutitswelcomebyandby,andthenwhenthelongedforraindoescomeitstays。Eventheplayfulearthquakeisbettercontemplatedatadis—— Howevertherearevaryingopinionsaboutthat。 TheclimateofSanFranciscoismildandsingularlyequable。Thethermometerstandsataboutseventydegreestheyearround。Ithardlychangesatall。YousleepunderoneortwolightblanketsSummerandWinter,andneveruseamosquitobar。NobodyeverwearsSummerclothing。 Youwearblackbroadcloth——ifyouhaveit——inAugustandJanuary,justthesame。Itisnocolder,andnowarmer,intheonemonththantheother。Youdonotuseovercoatsandyoudonotusefans。Itisaspleasantaclimateascouldwellbecontrived,takeitallaround,andisdoubtlessthemostunvaryinginthewholeworld。Thewindblowsthereagooddealinthesummermonths,butthenyoucangoovertoOakland,ifyouchoose——threeorfourmilesaway——itdoesnotblowthere。IthasonlysnowedtwiceinSanFranciscoinnineteenyears,andthenitonlyremainedonthegroundlongenoughtoastonishthechildren,andsetthemtowonderingwhatthefeatherystuffwas。 Duringeightmonthsoftheyear,straightalong,theskiesarebrightandcloudless,andneveradropofrainfalls。Butwhentheotherfourmonthscomealong,youwillneedtogoandstealanumbrella。Becauseyouwillrequireit。Notjustoneday,butonehundredandtwentydaysinhardlyvaryingsuccession。Whenyouwanttogovisiting,orattendchurch,orthetheatre,youneverlookupatthecloudstoseewhetheritislikelytorainornot——youlookatthealmanac。IfitisWinter,itwillrain——andifitisSummer,itwon\'train,andyoucannothelpit。 Youneverneedalightning-rod,becauseitneverthundersanditneverlightens。Andafteryouhavelistenedforsixoreightweeks,everynight,tothedismalmonotonyofthosequietrains,youwillwishinyourheartthethunderwouldleapandcrashandroaralongthosedrowsyskiesonce,andmakeeverythingalive——youwillwishtheprisonedlightningswouldcleavethedullfirmamentasunderandlightitwithablindingglareforonelittleinstant。Youwouldgiveanythingtoheartheoldfamiliarthunderagainandseethelightningstrikesomebody。AndalongintheSummer,whenyouhavesufferedaboutfourmonthsoflustrous,pitilesssunshine,youarereadytogodownonyourkneesandpleadforrain——hail——snow——thunderandlightning——anythingtobreakthemonotony—— youwilltakeanearthquake,ifyoucannotdoanybetter。Andthechancesarethatyou\'llgetit,too。 SanFranciscoisbuiltonsandhills,buttheyareprolificsandhills。 Theyyieldagenerousvegetation。Alltherareflowerswhichpeoplein“theStates“rearwithsuchpatientcareinparlorflower-potsandgreen- houses,flourishluxuriantlyintheopenairtherealltheyearround。 Callalilies,allsortsofgeraniums,passionflowers,mossroses——Idonotknowthenamesofatenthpartofthem。IonlyknowthatwhileNewYorkersareburdenedwithbanksanddriftsofsnow,Californiansareburdenedwithbanksanddriftsofflowers,iftheyonlykeeptheirhandsoffandletthemgrow。AndIhaveheardthattheyhavealsothatrarestandmostcuriousofalltheflowers,thebeautifulEspirituSanto,astheSpaniardscallit——orfloweroftheHolySpirit——thoughIthoughtitgrewonlyinCentralAmerica——downontheIsthmus。Initscupisthedaintiestlittlefacsimileofadove,aspureassnow。TheSpaniardshaveasuperstitiousreverenceforit。TheblossomhasbeenconveyedtotheStates,submergedinether;andthebulbhasbeentakenthitheralso,buteveryattempttomakeitbloomafteritarrived,hasfailed。 IhaveelsewherespokenoftheendlessWinterofMono,California,andbutthismomentoftheeternalSpringofSanFrancisco。Nowifwetravelahundredmilesinastraightline,wecometotheeternalSummerofSacramento。OneneverseesSummer-clothingormosquitoesinSanFrancisco——buttheycanbefoundinSacramento。Notalwaysandunvaryingly,butaboutonehundredandforty-threemonthsoutoftwelveyears,perhaps。Flowersbloomthere,always,thereadercaneasilybelieve——peoplesufferandsweat,andswear,morning,noonandnight,andwearouttheirstanchestenergiesfanningthemselves。Itgetshotthere,butifyougodowntoFortYumayouwillfindithotter。FortYumaisprobablythehottestplaceonearth。Thethermometerstaysatonehundredandtwentyintheshadethereallthetime——exceptwhenitvariesandgoeshigher。ItisaU。S。militarypost,anditsoccupantsgetsousedtotheterrificheatthattheysufferwithoutit。Thereisatradition(attributedtoJohnPhenix[Ithasbeenpurloinedbyfiftydifferentscribblerswhoweretoopoortoinventafancybutnotashamedtostealone——M。T。])thatavery,verywickedsoldierdiedthere,once,andofcourse,wentstraighttothehottestcornerofperdition,—— andthenextdayhetelegraphedbackforhisblankets。Thereisnodoubtaboutthetruthofthisstatement——therecanbenodoubtaboutit。I haveseentheplacewherethatsoldierusedtoboard。InSacramentoitisfierySummeralways,andyoucangatherroses,andeatstrawberriesandice-cream,andwearwhitelinenclothes,andpantandperspire,ateightornineo\'clockinthemorning,andthentakethecars,andatnoonputonyourfursandyourskates,andgoskimmingoverfrozenDonnerLake,seventhousandfeetabovethevalley,amongsnowbanksfifteenfeetdeep,andintheshadowofgrandmountainpeaksthatlifttheirfrostycragstenthousandfeetabovethelevelofthesea。 Thereisatransitionforyou!WherewillyoufindanotherlikeitintheWesternhemisphere?Andsomeofushavesweptaroundsnow-walledcurvesofthePacificRailroadinthatvicinity,sixthousandfeetabovethesea,andlookeddownasthebirdsdo,uponthedeathlessSummeroftheSacramentoValley,withitsfruitfulfields,itsfeatheryfoliage,itssilverstreams,allslumberinginthemellowhazeofitsenchantedatmosphere,andallinfinitelysoftenedandspiritualizedbydistance——adreamy,exquisiteglimpseoffairyland,madeallthemorecharmingandstrikingthatitwascaughtthroughaforbiddengatewayoficeandsnow,andsavagecragsandprecipices。 CHAPTERLVII。 ItwasinthisSacramentoValley,justreferredto,thatadealofthemostlucrativeoftheearlygoldminingwasdone,andyoumaystillsee,inplaces,itsgrassyslopesandlevelstornandgutteredanddisfiguredbytheavariciousspoilersoffifteenandtwentyyearsago。YoumayseesuchdisfigurementsfarandwideoverCalifornia——andinsomesuchplaces,whereonlymeadowsandforestsarevisible——notalivingcreature,notahouse,nostickorstoneorremnantofaruin,andnotasound,notevenawhispertodisturbtheSabbathstillness——youwillfindithardtobelievethattherestoodatonetimeafiercely-flourishinglittlecity,oftwothousandorthreethousandsouls,withitsnewspaper,firecompany,brassband,volunteermilitia,bank,hotels,noisyFourthofJulyprocessionsandspeeches,gamblinghellscrammedwithtobaccosmoke,profanity,andrough-beardedmenofallnationsandcolors,withtablesheapedwithgolddustsufficientfortherevenuesofaGermanprincipality——streetscrowdedandrifewithbusiness——townlotsworthfourhundreddollarsafrontfoot——labor,laughter,music,dancing,swearing,fighting,shooting,stabbing——abloodyinquestandamanforbreakfasteverymorning——everythingthatdelightsandadornsexistence—— alltheappointmentsandappurtenancesofathrivingandprosperousandpromisingyoungcity,——andnownothingisleftofitallbutalifeless,homelesssolitude。Themenaregone,thehouseshavevanished,eventhenameoftheplaceisforgotten。Innootherland,inmoderntimes,havetownssoabsolutelydiedanddisappeared,asintheoldminingregionsofCalifornia。 Itwasadriving,vigorous,restlesspopulationinthosedays。Itwasacuriouspopulation。Itwastheonlypopulationofthekindthattheworldhaseverseengatheredtogether,anditisnotlikelythattheworldwilleverseeitslikeagain。Forobserve,itwasanassemblageoftwohundredthousandyoungmen——notsimpering,dainty,kid-glovedweaklings,butstalwart,muscular,dauntlessyoungbraves,brimfulofpushandenergy,androyallyendowedwitheveryattributethatgoestomakeupapeerlessandmagnificentmanhood——theverypickandchoiceoftheworld\'sgloriousones。Nowomen,nochildren,nograyandstoopingveterans,——nonebuterect,bright-eyed,quick-moving,strong-handedyounggiants——thestrangestpopulation,thefinestpopulation,themostgallanthostthatevertroopeddownthestartledsolitudesofanunpeopledland。 Andwherearetheynow?Scatteredtotheendsoftheearth——orprematurelyagedanddecrepit——orshotorstabbedinstreetaffrays——ordeadofdisappointedhopesandbrokenhearts——allgone,ornearlyall—— victimsdevoteduponthealtarofthegoldencalf——thenoblestholocaustthateverwafteditssacrificialincenseheavenward。Itispitifultothinkupon。 Itwasasplendidpopulation——foralltheslow,sleepy,sluggish-brainedslothsstaidathome——youneverfindthatsortofpeopleamongpioneers—— youcannotbuildpioneersoutofthatsortofmaterial。ItwasthatpopulationthatgavetoCaliforniaanameforgettingupastoundingenterprisesandrushingthemthroughwithamagnificentdashanddaringandarecklessnessofcostorconsequences,whichshebearsuntothisday——andwhensheprojectsanewsurprise,thegraveworldsmilesasusual,andsays“Well,thatisCaliforniaallover。” Buttheywereroughinthosetimes!Theyfairlyreveledingold,whisky,fights,andfandangoes,andwereunspeakablyhappy。Thehonestminerrakedfromahundredtoathousanddollarsoutofhisclaimaday,andwhatwiththegamblingdensandtheotherentertainments,hehadn\'tacentthenextmorning,ifhehadanysortofluck。Theycookedtheirownbaconandbeans,sewedontheirownbuttons,washedtheirownshirts—— bluewoollenones;andifamanwantedafightonhishandswithoutanyannoyingdelay,allhehadtodowastoappearinpublicinawhiteshirtorastove-pipehat,andhewouldbeaccommodated。Forthosepeoplehatedaristocrats。Theyhadaparticularandmalignantanimositytowardwhattheycalleda“biledshirt。” Itwasawild,free,disorderly,grotesquesociety!Men——onlyswarminghostsofstalwartmen——nothingjuvenile,nothingfeminine,visibleanywhere! Inthosedaysminerswouldflockincrowdstocatchaglimpseofthatrareandblessedspectacle,awoman!Oldinhabitantstellhow,inacertaincamp,thenewswentabroadearlyinthemorningthatawomanwascome!Theyhadseenacalicodresshangingoutofawagondownatthecamping-ground——signofemigrantsfromoverthegreatplains。Everybodywentdownthere,andashoutwentupwhenanactual,bonafidedresswasdiscoveredflutteringinthewind!Themaleemigrantwasvisible。Theminerssaid: “Fetchherout!“ Hesaid:“Itismywife,gentlemen——sheissick——wehavebeenrobbedofmoney,provisions,everything,bytheIndians——wewanttorest。” “Fetchherout!We\'vegottoseeher!“ “But,gentlemen,thepoorthing,she——“ “FETCHHEROUT!“ He“fetchedherout,“andtheyswungtheirhatsandsentupthreerousingcheersandatiger;andtheycrowdedaroundandgazedather,andtouchedherdress,andlistenedtohervoicewiththelookofmenwholistenedtoamemoryratherthanapresentreality——andthentheycollectedtwenty- fivehundreddollarsingoldandgaveittotheman,andswungtheirhatsagainandgavethreemorecheers,andwenthomesatisfied。 OnceIdinedinSanFranciscowiththefamilyofapioneer,andtalkedwithhisdaughter,ayoungladywhosefirstexperienceinSanFranciscowasanadventure,thoughsheherselfdidnotrememberit,asshewasonlytwoorthreeyearsoldatthetime。Herfathersaidthat,afterlandingfromtheship,theywerewalkingupthestreet,aservantleadingthepartywiththelittlegirlinherarms。Andpresentlyahugeminer,bearded,belted,spurred,andbristlingwithdeadlyweapons——justdownfromalongcampaigninthemountains,evidently-barredtheway,stoppedtheservant,andstoodgazing,withafaceallalivewithgratificationandastonishment。Thenhesaid,reverently: “Well,ifitain\'tachild!“Andthenhesnatchedalittleleathersackoutofhispocketandsaidtotheservant: “There\'sahundredandfiftydollarsindust,there,andI\'llgiveittoyoutoletmekissthechild!“ Thatanecdoteistrue。 Butseehowthingschange。Sittingatthatdinner-table,listeningtothatanecdote,ifIhadoffereddoublethemoneyfortheprivilegeofkissingthesamechild,Iwouldhavebeenrefused。Seventeenaddedyearshavefarmorethandoubledtheprice。 AndwhileuponthissubjectIwillremarkthatonceinStarCity,intheHumboldtMountains,Itookmyplaceinasortoflong,post-officesinglefileofminers,topatientlyawaitmychancetopeepthroughacrackinthecabinandgetasightofthesplendidnewsensation——agenuine,liveWoman!Andattheendofhalfofanhourmyturncame,andIputmyeyetothecrack,andthereshewas,withonearmakimbo,andtossingflap- jacksinafrying-panwiththeother。 Andshewasonehundredandsixty-five[Beingincalmermood,now,I voluntarilyknockoffahundredfromthat——M。T。]yearsold,andhadn\'tatoothinherhead。 CHAPTERLVIII。 ForafewmonthsIenjoyedwhattomewasanentirelynewphaseofexistence——abutterflyidleness;nothingtodo,nobodytoberesponsibleto,anduntroubledwithfinancialuneasiness。IfellinlovewiththemostcordialandsociablecityintheUnion。Afterthesage-brushandalkalidesertsofWashoe,SanFranciscowasParadisetome。Ilivedatthebesthotel,exhibitedmyclothesinthemostconspicuousplaces,infestedtheopera,andlearnedtoseemenrapturedwithmusicwhichoftenerafflictedmyignorantearthanenchantedit,ifIhadhadthevulgarhonestytoconfessit。However,IsupposeIwasnotgreatlyworsethanthemostofmycountrymeninthat。Ihadlongedtobeabutterfly,andIwasoneatlast。Iattendedprivatepartiesinsumptuouseveningdress,simperedandairedmygraceslikeabornbeau,andpolkadandschottischedwithasteppeculiartomyself——andthekangaroo。Inaword,Ikepttheduestateofamanworthahundredthousanddollars(prospectively,)andlikelytoreachabsoluteaffluencewhenthatsilver- minesaleshouldbeultimatelyachievedintheEast。Ispentmoneywithafreehand,andmeantimewatchedthestocksaleswithaninterestedeyeandlookedtoseewhatmighthappeninNevada。 Somethingveryimportanthappened。ThepropertyholdersofNevadavotedagainsttheStateConstitution;butthefolkswhohadnothingtolosewereinthemajority,andcarriedthemeasureovertheirheads。Butafterallitdidnotimmediatelylooklikeadisaster,thoughunquestionablyitwasoneIhesitated,calculatedthechances,andthenconcludednottosell。Stockswentonrising;speculationwentmad; bankers,merchants,lawyers,doctors,mechanics,laborers,eventheverywasherwomenandservantgirls,wereputtinguptheirearningsonsilverstocks,andeverysunthatroseinthemorningwentdownonpaupersenrichedandrichmenbeggared。Whatagamblingcarnivalitwas!GouldandCurrysoaredtosixthousandthreehundreddollarsafoot!Andthen——allofasudden,outwentthebottomandeverythingandeverybodywenttoruinanddestruction!Thewreckwascomplete。 Thebubblescarcelyleftamicroscopicmoisturebehindit。Iwasanearlybeggarandathoroughone。Myhoardedstockswerenotworththepapertheywereprintedon。Ithrewthemallaway。I,thecheerfulidiotthathadbeensquanderingmoneylikewater,andthoughtmyselfbeyondthereachofmisfortune,hadnotnowasmuchasfiftydollarswhenIgatheredtogethermyvariousdebtsandpaidthem。Iremovedfromthehoteltoaveryprivateboardinghouse。Itookareporter\'sberthandwenttowork。Iwasnotentirelybrokeninspirit,forIwasbuildingconfidentlyonthesaleofthesilvermineintheeast。ButIcouldnothearfromDan。Mylettersmiscarriedorwerenotanswered。 OnedayIdidnotfeelvigorousandremainedawayfromtheoffice。ThenextdayIwentdowntowardnoonasusual,andfoundanoteonmydeskwhichhadbeentheretwenty-fourhours。Itwassigned“Marshall“——theVirginiareporter——andcontainedarequestthatIshouldcallatthehotelandseehimandafriendortwothatnight,astheywouldsailfortheeastinthemorning。Apostscriptaddedthattheirerrandwasabigminingspeculation!Iwashardlyeversosickinmylife。IabusedmyselfforleavingVirginiaandentrustingtoanothermanamatterI oughttohaveattendedtomyself;IabusedmyselfforremainingawayfromtheofficeontheonedayofalltheyearthatIshouldhavebeenthere。 AndthusberatingmyselfItrottedamiletothesteamerwharfandarrivedjustintimetobetoolate。Theshipwasinthestreamandunderway。 Icomfortedmyselfwiththethoughtthatmaybethespeculationwouldamounttonothing——poorcomfortatbest——andthenwentbacktomyslavery,resolvedtoputupwithmythirty-fivedollarsaweekandforgetallaboutit。 AmonthafterwardIenjoyedmyfirstearthquake。Itwasonewhichwaslongcalledthe“great“earthquake,andisdoubtlesssodistinguishedtillthisday。Itwasjustafternoon,onabrightOctoberday。IwascomingdownThirdstreet。Theonlyobjectsinmotionanywhereinsightinthatthicklybuiltandpopulousquarter,wereamaninabuggybehindme,andastreetcarwendingslowlyupthecrossstreet。Otherwise,allwassolitudeandaSabbathstillness。AsIturnedthecorner,aroundaframehouse,therewasagreatrattleandjar,anditoccurredtomethatherewasanitem!——nodoubtafightinthathouse。BeforeIcouldturnandseekthedoor,therecameareallyterrificshock;thegroundseemedtorollundermeinwaves,interruptedbyaviolentjogglingupanddown,andtherewasaheavygrindingnoiseasofbrickhousesrubbingtogether。 Ifellupagainsttheframehouseandhurtmyelbow。Iknewwhatitwas,now,andfrommerereportorialinstinct,nothingelse,tookoutmywatchandnotedthetimeofday;atthatmomentathirdandstillseverershockcame,andasIreeledaboutonthepavementtryingtokeepmyfooting,Isawasight!Theentirefrontofatallfour-storybrickbuildinginThirdstreetsprungoutwardlikeadoorandfellsprawlingacrossthestreet,raisingadustlikeagreatvolumeofsmoke!Andherecamethebuggy——overboardwenttheman,andinlesstimethanIcantellitthevehiclewasdistributedinsmallfragmentsalongthreehundredyardsofstreet。 Onecouldhavefanciedthatsomebodyhadfiredachargeofchair-roundsandragsdownthethoroughfare。Thestreetcarhadstopped,thehorseswererearingandplunging,thepassengerswerepouringoutatbothends,andonefatmanhadcrashedhalfwaythroughaglasswindowononesideofthecar,gotwedgedfastandwassquirmingandscreaminglikeanimpaledmadman。Everydoor,ofeveryhouse,asfarastheeyecouldreach,wasvomitingastreamofhumanbeings;andalmostbeforeonecouldexecuteawinkandbeginanother,therewasamassedmultitudeofpeoplestretchinginendlessprocessiondowneverystreetmypositioncommanded。 Neverwassolemnsolitudeturnedintoteeminglifequicker。 Ofthewonderswroughtby“thegreatearthquake,“thesewereallthatcameundermyeye;butthetricksitdid,elsewhere,andfarandwideoverthetown,madetoothsomegossipforninedays。 Thedestructionofpropertywastrifling——theinjurytoitwaswide- spreadandsomewhatserious。 The“curiosities“oftheearthquakeweresimplyendless。Gentlemenandladieswhoweresick,orweretakingasiesta,orhaddissipatedtillalatehourandweremakinguplostsleep,throngedintothepublicstreetsinallsortsofqueerapparel,andsomewithoutanyatall。Onewomanwhohadbeenwashinganakedchild,randownthestreetholdingitbytheanklesasifitwereadressedturkey。ProminentcitizenswhoweresupposedtokeeptheSabbathstrictly,rushedoutofsaloonsintheirshirt-sleeves,withbilliardcuesintheirhands。Dozensofmenwithnecksswathedinnapkins,rushedfrombarber-shops,latheredtotheeyesorwithonecheekcleanshavedandtheotherstillbearingahairystubble。Horsesbrokefromstables,andafrighteneddogrushedupashortatticladderandoutontoaroof,andwhenhisscarewasoverhadnotthenervetogodownagainthesamewayhehadgoneup。 Aprominenteditorflewdownstairs,intheprincipalhotel,withnothingonbutonebriefundergarment——metachambermaid,andexclaimed: “Oh,whatshallIdo!WhereshallIgo!“ Sherespondedwithnaiveserenity: “Ifyouhavenochoice,youmighttryaclothing-store!“ Acertainforeignconsul\'sladywastheacknowledgedleaderoffashion,andeverytimesheappearedinanythingneworextraordinary,theladiesinthevicinitymadearaidontheirhusbands\'pursesandarrayedthemselvessimilarly。Onemanwhohadsufferedconsiderablyandgrowledaccordingly,wasstandingatthewindowwhentheshockscame,andthenextinstanttheconsul\'swife,justoutofthebath,fledbywithnootherapologyforclothingthan——abath-towel!Thesuffererrosesuperiortotheterrorsoftheearthquake,andsaidtohiswife: “Nowthatissomethinglike!Getoutyourtowelmydear!“ TheplasteringthatfellfromceilingsinSanFranciscothatday,wouldhavecoveredseveralacresofground。Forsomedaysafterward,groupsofeyeingandpointingmenstoodaboutmanyabuilding,lookingatlongzig- zagcracksthatextendedfromtheeavestotheground。Fourfeetofthetopsofthreechimneysononehousewerebrokensquareoffandturnedaroundinsuchawayastocompletelystopthedraft。 Acrackahundredfeetlonggapedopensixincheswideinthemiddleofonestreetandthenshuttogetheragainwithsuchforce,astoridgeupthemeetingearthlikeaslendergrave。Aladysittinginherrockingandquakingparlor,sawthewallpartattheceiling,openandshuttwice,likeamouth,andthen-droptheendofabrickonthefloorlikeatooth。Shewasawomaneasilydisgustedwithfoolishness,andshearoseandwentoutofthere。OneladywhowascomingdownstairswasastonishedtoseeabronzeHerculesleanforwardonitspedestalasiftostrikeherwithitsclub。Theybothreachedthebottomoftheflightatthesametime,——thewomaninsensiblefromthefright。Herchild,bornsomelittletimeafterward,wasclub-footed。However——onsecondthought,——ifthereaderseesanycoincidenceinthis,hemustdoitathisownrisk。 Thefirstshockbroughtdowntwoorthreehugeorgan-pipesinoneofthechurches。Theminister,withupliftedhands,wasjustclosingtheservices。Heglancedup,hesitated,andsaid: “However,wewillomitthebenediction!“——andthenextinstanttherewasavacancyintheatmospherewherehehadstood。 Afterthefirstshock,anOaklandministersaid: “Keepyourseats!Thereisnobetterplacetodiethanthis“—— Andadded,afterthethird: “Butoutsideisgoodenough!“Hethenskippedoutatthebackdoor。 Suchanotherdestructionofmantelornamentsandtoiletbottlesastheearthquakecreated,SanFrancisconeversawbefore。Therewashardlyagirloramatroninthecitybutsufferedlossesofthiskind。Suspendedpictureswerethrowndown,butoftenerstill,byacuriousfreakoftheearthquake\'shumor,theywerewhirledcompletelyaroundwiththeirfacestothewall!Therewasgreatdifferenceofopinion,atfirst,astothecourseordirectiontheearthquaketraveled,butwaterthatsplashedoutofvarioustanksandbucketssettledthat。Thousandsofpeopleweremadesosea-sickbytherollingandpitchingoffloorsandstreetsthattheywereweakandbed-riddenforhours,andsomefewforevendaysafterward——Hardlyanindividualescapednauseaentirely。 Thequeerearthquake——episodesthatformedthestapleofSanFranciscogossipforthenextweekwouldfillamuchlargerbookthanthis,andsoIwilldivergefromthesubject。 Byandby,intheduecourseofthings,IpickedupacopyoftheEnterpriseoneday,andfellunderthiscruelblow: NEVADAMINESINNEWYORK——G。M。Marshall,ShebaHursandAmosH。 Rose,wholeftSanFranciscolastJulyforNewYorkCity,withoresfromminesinPineWoodDistrict,HumboldtCounty,andontheReeseRiverrange,havedisposedofaminecontainingsixthousandfeetandcalledthePineMountainsConsolidated,forthesumof$3,000,000。Thestampsonthedeed,whichisnowonitswaytoHumboldtCounty,fromNewYork,forrecord,amountedto$3,000,whichissaidtobethelargestamountofstampseverplacedononedocument。Aworkingcapitalof$1,000,000hasbeenpaidintothetreasury,andmachineryhasalreadybeenpurchasedforalargequartzmill,whichwillbeputupassoonaspossible。Thestockinthiscompanyisallfullpaidandentirelyunassessable。TheoresoftheminesinthisdistrictsomewhatresemblethoseoftheShebamineinHumboldt。ShebaHurst,thediscovererofthemines,withhisfriendscorralledallthebestleadsandallthelandandtimbertheydesiredbeforemakingpublictheirwhereabouts。Oresfromthere,assayedinthiscity,showedthemtobeexceedinglyrichinsilverandgold——silverpredominating。ThereisanabundanceofwoodandwaterintheDistrict。WearegladtoknowthatNewYorkcapitalhasbeenenlistedinthedevelopmentoftheminesofthisregion。Havingseentheoresandassays,wearesatisfiedthattheminesoftheDistrictareveryvaluable——anythingbutwild-cat。 Oncemorenativeimbecilityhadcarriedtheday,andIhadlostamillion!Itwasthe“blindlead“overagain。 Letusnotdwellonthismiserablematter。IfIwereinventingthesethings,Icouldbewonderfullyhumorousoverthem;buttheyaretootruetobetalkedofwithheartylevity,evenatthisdistantday。[True,andyetnotexactlyasgivenintheabovefigures,possibly。IsawMarshall,monthsafterward,andalthoughhehadplentyofmoneyhedidnotclaimtohavecapturedanentiremillion。InfactIgatheredthathehadnotthenreceived$50,000。Beyondthatfigurehisfortuneappearedtoconsistofuncertainvastexpectationsratherthanprodigiouscertainties。However,whentheaboveitemappearedinprintIputfullfaithinit,andincontinentlywiltedandwenttoseedunderit。]SufficeitthatIsolostheart,andsoyieldedmyselfuptorepiningsandsighingsandfoolishregrets,thatIneglectedmydutiesandbecameaboutworthless,asareporterforabrisknewspaper。Andatlastoneoftheproprietorstookmeaside,withacharityIstillrememberwithconsiderablerespect,andgavemeanopportunitytoresignmyberthandsosavemyselfthedisgraceofadismissal。