Dayafterday,dayafterday,Igazedwistfullyovertheseaforhoursatatime,withouteverseeingasail,andatlastIbegantogrowsomewhatdespondent,andsighedforthecompanionshipofmyblackfriendsoncemore。Yambawasunremittinginherendeavourstomakelifepleasantformeandkeepmewellsuppliedwiththebestoffood;butIcouldseethatshe,too,didnotlikelivingonthisexposedanddesolatespot。So,afterafewweeks”experienceoflifethere,Idecidedtoreturntomybayhome,andlateronmakepreparationsforajourneyoverlandtoapointontheAustraliancoast,whereIlearnedshipsquitefrequentlypassed。
ThepointinquestionwasSomersetPoint,attheextremenorthoftheCapeYorkpeninsula;andIhadlearntofitsexistencefromJensenwhenwewerepearl-fishing。Theblacksweredelightedtoseemeonmyreturn,andIremainedwiththemseveralmonthsbeforeattemptingmynextjourney。TheywerekeenlyanxiousthatIshouldjointhemintheirfightingexpeditions,butIalwaysdeclined,onthegroundthatIwasnotafightingman。Thefactofthematterwas,thatIcouldneverhopetothrowaspearwithanythinglikethedexteritytheythemselvespossessed;andasspearsweretheprincipalweaponsusedinwarfare,IwasafraidIwouldnotshowupwellatacriticalmoment。Moreover,thewarriorsdefendedthemselvessodexterouslywithshieldsastobeallbutinvulnerable,whereasIhadnottheslightestideaofhowtohandleashield。Andforthesakeofmyever-indispensableprestige,I
couldnotaffordtomakemyselfridiculousintheireyes。IalwaystookgoodcaretolettheblacksseemeperformingonlythosefeatswhichIfeltmorallycertainIcouldaccomplish,andaccomplishtotheiramazement。
SofarIhadwonlaurelsenoughwithmymysteriousarrowsor“flyingspears,“asthenativesconsideredthem,andmyprowesswiththeharpoonandtomahawkwassunginmanytribes。AndnottheleastawkwardthingaboutmypositionwasthatIdarednotevenattemptalittlequietpracticeinspear-throwing,forfeartheblacksshouldcomeuponmesuddenly,whenIwouldmostcertainlylosecaste。Ihadseveralnarrowescapesfromthisseriouscalamity,butmostofthemcannotbepublishedhere。Imusttellyou,though,thattheblacks,whendrinkingatariverorwater-
hole,invariablyscoopupthewaterwiththeirhands,andneverputtheirmouthsrightdownclosetothesurfaceofthewater。Well,onedayIwasguiltyofthissolecism。Ihadbeenoutonahuntingexpedition,andreachedthewater-holewithanintenseburningthirst。Mymentorwasnotwithme。Ifellonmykneesandfairlyburiedmyfaceinthelife-givingfluid。SuddenlyIheardmurmursbehindme。Iturnedpresentlyandsawapartyofmyblacksregardingmewithhorror。TheysaidIdranklikeakangaroo。ButYambasooncametotherescue,andexplainedawaythedreadfulbreachofetiquette,bytellingthemthatIwasnotdrinking,butsimplycoolingmyface;whenwewerealoneshesolemnlycautionedmenevertodoitagain。
Themonthspassedslowlyaway,andIwasstilllivingthesamemonotonouslifeamongmyblacks——accompanyingthemupontheirhuntingexpeditions,joiningintheirsports,andmakingperiodicaltripsinlandwithYamba,inpreparationforthegreatjourneyI
proposedtomakeoverlandtoCapeYork。WhenIspoketomydevotedcompanionaboutmyplans,shetoldmeshewasreadytoaccompanymewhereverIwent——toleaveherpeopleandtobeforeverbymyside。
RightwellIknewthatshewouldunhesitatinglydothesethings。
Herdog-likefidelitytomeneverwavered,andIknowshewouldhavelaiddownherlifeformeatanytime。
OftenItoldherofmyownhomebeyondtheseas,andwhenIaskedherwhethershewouldcomewithme,shewouldreply,“Yourpeoplearemypeople,andyourGod(spirit)myGod。Iwillgowithyouwhereveryoutakeme。”
Atlengtheverythingwasready,andIpaidafinalfarewell,asI
thought,tomyblackfriendsinCambridgeGulf,afteralittleovereighteenmonths”residenceamongthem。TheyknewIwasventuringonalongjourneyoverlandtoanotherpartofthecountrymanymoonsdistant,inthehopeofbeingabletogetintotouchwithmyownpeople;andthoughtheyrealisedtheyshouldneverseemeagain,theythoughtmydepartureaverynaturalthing。Thenightbeforeweleft,agreatcorroboreewasheldinmyhonour。Wehadaveryaffectionateleave-taking,andabodyofthenativesescortedusforthefirst100milesorsoofourtrip。Atlast,however,Yamba,myself,andthefaithfuldogwerelefttocontinueourwanderingsalone。TherelianceIplaceduponthiswomanbythewaywasabsoluteandunquestioning。IknewthataloneIcouldnotliveadayintheawfulwildernessthroughwhichweweretopass;norcouldanysolitarywhiteman。Bythistime,however,IhadhadinnumerabledemonstrationsofYamba”salmostmiraculouspowersinthewayofprovidingfoodandwaterwhen,totheordinaryeye,neitherwasforthcoming。IshouldhavementionedthatbeforeleavingmyblackpeopleIhadprovidedmyselfwithwhatImaytermanativepassport——akindofMasonicmysticstick,inscribedwithcertaincabalisticcharacters。Everychiefcarriedoneofthesesticks。Icarriedmineinmylong,luxurianthair,whichIwore“bun“fashion,heldinanetofopossumhair。Thispassportstickprovedinvaluableasameansofputtingusongoodtermswiththedifferenttribesweencountered。Thechiefsoftheblacksneverventuredoutoftheirowncountrywithoutoneofthesemysterioussticks,neitherdidthenativemessage-bearers。IamsureIshouldnothavebeenabletotravelfarwithoutmine。
WheneverIencounteredastrangetribeIalwaysaskedtobetakenbeforethechief,andwheninhispresenceIpresentedmylittlestick,hewouldatoncemanifestthegreatestfriendliness,andofferusfoodanddrink。Then,beforeItookmydeparture,healsowouldinscribehissignuponthemessagestick,handingitbacktomeandprobablysendingmeontoanothertribewithanescort。Itoftenhappened,however,thatIwaspersonallyintroducedtoanothertribewhose“frontier“joinedthatofmylatehosts,andinsuchcasesmypassportwasunnecessary。
Atfirstthecountrythroughwhichourwanderingsleduswashillyandwellwooded,thetreesbeingparticularlyfine,manyofthemtoweringuptoaheightof150feetor200feet。Ourprincipalfoodconsistedofroots,rats,snakes,opossum,andkangaroo。Thephysicalconditionsofthecountrywereconstantlychangingaswemovedfarthereastward,andYamba”singenuitywasoftensorelytaxedtodetectthewhereaboutsofthevariousrootsnecessaryforfood。ItwasobviouslyunfairtoexpecthertobefamiliarwiththefloraandfaunaofeverypartofthegreatAustralianContinent。Sometimesshewasabsolutelynonplused,andhadtostayafewdayswithatribeuntilthewomeninitiatedherintothebestmethodsofcookingtherootsofthecountry。Andoftenwecouldnotunderstandthelanguage。Insuchcases,though,whenspokenwordswereunlikethoseutteredinYamba”scountry,weresortedtoawonderfulsign-languagewhichappearstobegeneralamongtheAustralianblacks。AllthatYambacarriedwasabasketmadeofbark,slungoverhershoulder,andcontainingavarietyofusefulthings,includingsomeneedlesmadeoutofthebonesofbirdsandfish;acoupleoflightgrinding-stonesforcrushingoutofitsshellaverysustainingkindofnutfoundonthepalmtrees,&c。
Dayafterdaywewalkedsteadilyoninaneasterlydirection,guidingourselvesinthedaytimebythesun,andintheeveningbyopossumscratchesontreesandthepositionsoftheant-hills,whicharealwaysbuiltfacingtheeast。Wecrossedmanycreeksandrivers,sometimeswadingandatotherstimeswimming。
Graduallyweleftthehillycountrybehind,andafteraboutfiveorsixweeks”trampinggotintoanextraordinarydesertofredsand,whichgaveoffadustfromourverytracksthatnearlysuffocatedus。Eachwater-holewecameacrossnowbegantocontainlessandlessofthepreciousliquid,andourdailymenugrewmoreandmorescanty,untilatlengthwewerecompelledtoliveonpracticallynothingbutafewrootsandstrayrats。Stillweploddedon,finallystrikingaterriblespinifexcountry,whichwasinconceivablyworsethananythingwehadhithertoencountered。Inordertomakeourwaythroughthisspinifex(theterrible“porcupinegrass“oftheAustralianinterior),wewereboundtofollowthetracksmadebykangaroosornatives,otherwiseweshouldhavemadenoprogresswhatever。Thesetracksattimeswanderedaboutzigzagfashion,andledusconsiderabledistancesoutofourcourse,but,allthesame,wedarenotleavethem。Notonlywaswaterallbutunobtainablehere,butourskinwastornwiththornsatalmosteverystep。Yambawasterriblytroubledwhenshefoundshecouldnolongerprovideformywants。Fortunatelythedewfellheavilyatnight,andasufficientquantitywouldcollectonthefoliagetorefreshmesomewhatinthemorning。HoweagerlywouldI
lickthepreciousdropsfromtheleaves!Curiouslyenough,Yambaherselfuptothistimedidnotseemdistressedfromlackofwater;
butnothingaboutthismarvellouswomansurprisedme。Ittookusabouttendaystopassthroughtheawfulspinifexdesert,andforatleasteightdaysofthatperiodwewerevirtuallywithoutwater,trampingthroughnever-endingtractsofscrub,pricklygrass,andundulatingsand-hillsofareddishcolour。OftenandoftenI
blamedmyselfbitterlyforevergoingintothatfrightfulcountryatall。HadIknownbeforehandthatitwastotallyuninhabitedI
certainlyshouldnothaveventuredintoit。Wewerestillgoingdueeast,butinconsequenceofthelackofwater-holes,myheroicguidethoughtitadvisabletostrikealittlemorenorth。
CHAPTERVII
Theagoniesofthirst——Aghastlydrink——IaskYambatokillme——Myministeringangel——HowYambacaughtopossum——Thewaterwitch——A
barometerofsnakes——Thecomingdeluge——TheplungeintotheRapids——
Awasteofwaters——Afearfulsituation——Barkingalligators——
English-speakingnatives——Ashipatlast——Iabandonhope——Thedesertedsettlement。
BythistimeIbegantofeelquitedelirious;IfearIwaslikeababyinYamba”shands。SheknewthatallIwantedwaswater,andbecamealmostdistractedwhenshecouldnotfindanyforme。Ofherselfsheneverthought。Andyetshewasfullofstrangeresourcesanddevices。WhenImoanedaloudinanagonyofthirst,shewouldgivemesomekindofgrasstochew;andalthoughthispossessednorealmoisture,yetitpromotedtheflowofsaliva,andthusslightlyrelievedme。
Thingsgrewworseandworse,however,andthedeliriumincreased。
Hourafterhour——throughtheendlessnightswouldthatdevotedcreaturesitbymyside,moisteningmylipswiththedewthatcollectedonthegrass。OnthefifthdaywithoutwaterIsufferedthemostshockingagonies,andinmylucidmomentsgavemyselfupforlost。Icouldneitherstandnorwalk,speaknorswallow。Mythroatseemedtobealmostclosedup,andwhenIopenedmyeyeseverythingappearedtobegoingroundandroundinthemostdizzyandsickeningmanner。Myheartbeatwithchokingviolence,andmyheadached,sothatIthoughtIwasgoingmad。Mybloodshoteyes(soYambasubsequentlytoldme)projectedfromtheirsocketsinthemostterrifyingmanner,andahorribleindescribablelongingpossessedmetokillmyfaithfulBruno,inordertodrinkhisblood。MypoorBruno!AsIwritethesehumblelines,solackinginliterarygrace,IfancyIcanseehimlyingbymysideinthatglaring,illimitablewilderness,hispoor,drytonguelollingout,andhispiteousbrowneyesfixeduponmewithanexpressionofmuteappealthataddedtomyagony。TheonlythingthatkepthimfromcollapsingaltogetherwasthebloodofsomeanimalwhichYambamightsucceedinkilling。
GraduallyIgrewweakerandweaker,andatlastfeelingtheendwasnear,IcrawledunderthefirsttreeIcameacross——neverforamomentgivingathoughtastoitsspecies,——andpreparedtomeetthedeathInowferventlydesired。HadYamba,too,givenup,theselineswouldneverhavebeenwritten。Amazingtorelate,shekeptcomparativelywellandactive,thoughwithoutwater;andinmymostviolentparoxysmshewouldpounceuponalizardorarat,andgivemeitswarmbloodtodrink,whileyetitlived。Thenshewouldmasticateapieceofiguanafleshandgiveittomeinmymouth,butIwasquiteunabletoswallowit,greatlytoherdisappointment。ShemusthaveseenthatIwasslowlysinking,foratlastshestoopeddownandwhisperedearnestlyinmyearthatshewouldleavemeforalittlewhile,andgooffinsearchofwater。
Likeadreamitcomesbacktomehowsheexplainedthatshehadseensomebirdspassingoverhead,andthatifshefollowedinthesamedirectionshewasalmostcertaintoreachwatersoonerorlater。
Icouldnotreply;butIfeltitwasatrulyhopelessenterpriseonherpart。AndasIdidnotwanthertoleaveme,IrememberIheldoutmytomahawkfeeblytowardsher,andsignedtohertocomeandstrikemeontheheadwithitandsoputanendtomydreadfulagonies。Theheroiccreatureonlysmiledandshookherheademphatically。Shetooktheprofferedweapon,however,andafterputtingsomedistinguishingmarksonmytreewithit,shehurleditsomedistanceawayfromme。Shethenstoopedandproppedmeagainstthetrunkofthetree;andthenleavingmypoorsufferingdogtokeepmecompany,shesetoutonherlonelysearchwithlong,lopingstridesofamazingvigour。
Itwaslateintheafternoonwhenshetookherdeparture;andIlaytherehourafterhour,sometimesfranticallydelirious,andatothersinastateofsemi-consciousness,fancyingshewasbymysidewithshellsbrimmingoverwithdeliciouswater。Iwouldrousemyselfwithastartfromtimetotime,but,alas!myYambawasnotnearme。Duringthelonganddeathlystillnessofthenight,thedewcamedownheavily,andasitenvelopedmybed,Ifellintoasoundsleep,fromwhichIwasawakenedsomehourslaterbythesameclearandringingvoicethathadaddressedmeonthatstillnightonmyislandsand-spit。Outupontheimpressivestillnessoftheairrangtheearnestwords:“Coupel”arbre!Coupel”arbre!“
Iwasquiteconscious,andmuchrefreshedbymysleep,butthemessagepuzzledmeagreatdeal。AtfirstIthoughtitmusthavebeenYamba”svoice,butIrememberedthatshedidnotknowawordofFrench;andwhenIlookedroundtherewasnoonetobeseen。
Themysteriousmessagestillranginmyears,butIwasfartooweaktoattempttocutthetreemyself,Ilaythereinastateofinertdrowsinessuntil,rousingmyselfalittlebeforedawn,I
heardthefamiliarfootstepsofYambaapproachingthespotwhereI
lay。Herfaceexpressedanxiety,earnestness,andjoy。
Inhertremblinghandssheboreabiglilyleafcontainingtwoorthreeouncesoflife-givingwater。ThisIdrankwithgaspingeagerness,asyoumaysuppose。Mydeliriumhadnowentirelyleftme,althoughIwasstillunabletospeak。Isignedtohertocutthetree,asthevoiceinmydreamhaddirectedme。WithoutawordofquestionYambapickedupthetomahawkfromwhereshehadhurledit,andthencutvigorouslyintothetrunk,makingaholethreeorfourinchesdeep。Itmayseemastonishingtoyou,butitsurprisedmeinnowisewhenoutfromtheholethereTRICKLEDACLEAR,UNCERTAINSTREAMOFWATER,underwhichYambapromptlyheldmyfeveredhead。Thishadawonderfullyrefreshingeffectuponme,andinashorttimeIwasabletospeakfeeblybutrationally,greatlytothedelightofmyfaithfulcompanion。As,however,I
wasstilltooweaktomove,Iindulgedinanotherandfarsoundersleep。IdonotknowthescientificnameofthatwonderfulAustraliantreewhichsavedmylife,butbelieveitiswellknowntonaturalists。Ihavehearditcalledthe“bottletree,“fromtheshapeofthetrunk。Allthroughthatterriblenight,whileYambawasfarawaysearchingforwater,Brunohadneverleftmyside,lookingintomyfacewistfully,andoccasionallylickingmybodysympatheticallywithhispoor,parchedtongue。WhilstIwasasleepthesecondtime,Yambawentoffwiththedoginsearchoffood,andreturnedwithayoungopossum,whichwassoonfrizzlinginanappetisingwayonatripodofsticksoverablazingfire。Iwasabletoeatalittleoftheflesh,andweobtainedallthewaterwewantedfromourwonderfultree。Ofcourse,Yambawasunacquaintedwiththefactthatwaterwasstoredinitsinterior。Asarule,herinstinctmightbedependeduponimplicitly;andevenafteryearsofhercompanionshipIusedtobefilledwithwonderatthewayinwhichshewouldtrackdowngameandfindhoney。Shewouldglanceatatreecasually,anddiscernonthebarkcertainminutescratches,whichwerequiteinvisibletome,evenwhenpointedout。
Shewouldthenclimbuplikeamonkey,andreturntothegroundwithagood-sizedopossum,whichwouldberoastedinitsskin,withmanydifferentvarietiesofdeliciousroots。
WhenIhadquiterecovered,Yambatoldmeshehadwalkedmanymilesduringthenight,andhadfinallydiscoveredawater-holeinanewcountry,forwhichshesaidwemustmakeassoonasIwassufficientlystrong。Fortunatelythisdidnottakeverylong,andonreachingthebrinkofthewater-holewecampedbesideitforseveraldays,inordertorecuperate。Imustsaythatthewaterwefoundheredidnotlookveryinviting——itwas,infact,veryslimyandgreenincolour;butbythetimewetookourdeparturetherewasnotadropleft。Yambahadamethodoffiltrationwhichexcitedmyadmiration。Sheduganotherholealongsidetheonecontainingthewater,leavingafewinchesofearthbetweenthem,throughwhichthewaterwouldpercolate,andcollectinholeperfectlyfiltered。
Atothertimes,whennoordinaryhumanbeingcoulddetectthepresenceofwater,shewouldpointouttomealittleknobofclayonthegroundinanolddried-upwater-hole。This,shetoldme,denotedthepresenceofafrog,andshewouldatoncethrustdownareedabouteighteenincheslong,andinvitemetosucktheupperend,withtheresultthatIimbibedcopiousdraughtsofdeliciouswater。
Atthewater-holejustdescribedbirdswereratherplentiful,andwhentheycamedowntodrink,Yambaknockedthemoverwithoutdifficulty。Theymadeaverywelcomeadditiontoourdailybilloffare。Hermodeofcapturingthebirdswassimplicityitself。Shemadeherselfalongcoveringofgrassthatcompletelyenvelopedher,and,shroudedinthis,waitedattheedgeofthewater-holeforthebirdstocomeanddrink。Thensheknockedoverwithastickasmanyassherequired。Inthiswaywehadaverypleasantspellofrestforfourorfivedays。Continuingourjourneyoncemore,wepushedontillinaboutthreeweekswecametoawell-
woodedcountry,wheretheeucalyptusflourishedmightilyandwaterwasplentiful;butyet,strangetosay,therewasverylittlegameinthisregion。Soonafterthis,InoticedthatYambagrewalittleanxious,andsheexplainedthataswehadnotcomeacrossanykangarooslately,noranyblacks,itwasevidentthatthewetseasonwascomingon。Wethereforedecidedtosteerforhigherground,andaccordinglywentalmostduenorthforthenextfewdays,untilwereachedthebanksofabigriver——theRoperRiver,asIafterwardsfoundout——wherewethoughtitadvisabletocamp。
ThiswouldprobablybesometimeinthemonthofDecember。
OnedayIsawanumberofsmallsnakesswarmingroundthefootofatree,andwasjustabouttoknocksomeofthemoverwithmystick,whenYambacalledouttomeexcitedlynottomolestthem。Theythenbegantoclimbthetree,andsheexplainedthatthisclearlyindicatedtheadventofthewetseason。“Ididnotwishyoutokillthesnakes,“shesaid,“becauseIwantedtoseeiftheywouldtakerefugeinthetreesfromthecomingfloods。”
Uptothistime,however,therehadnotbeentheslightestindicationofanygreatchangeintheweather。Manymonthsmusthaveelapsedsincerainhadfallenintheseregions,fortheriverwasextremelylowbetweenitsextraordinarilyhighbanks,andthecountryallroundwasdryandparched;butevenaswewalked,aremarkablephenomenonoccurred,whichtoldofimpendingchanges。I
wasoppressedwithasenseofcomingevil。IlistenedintentlywhenYambarequestedmetodoso,butatfirstallIcouldhearwasacuriousrumblingsound,farawayinthedistance。Thisnoisegraduallyincreasedinvolume,andcamenearerandnearer,butstillIwasutterlyunabletoaccountforit。Ialsonoticedthattheriverwasbecomingstrangelyagitated,andwasswirlingalongatever-increasingspeed。Suddenlyanenormousmassofwatercamerushingdownwithafrightfulroar,inonesolidwave,andthenitdawneduponmethatitmusthavealreadycommencedraininginthehills,andthetributariesoftheriverwerenowsendingdowntheirfloodsintothemainstream,whichwasrisingwithastonishingrapidity。Inthecourseofacoupleofhoursithadrisenbetweenthirtyandfortyfeet。Yambaseemedalittleanxious,andsuggestedthatwehadbetterbuildahutonsomehighgroundandremainsecureinthatlocality,withoutattemptingtocontinueourmarchwhiletherainslasted;anditwasevidenttheywerenowuponus。
Wethereforesettoworktoconstructacomfortablelittleshelterofbark,fastenedtoaframeworkofpolesbymeansofcreepersandclimbingplants。Thus,bythetimethedelugewasfairlyuponus,wewerequitesnuglyensconced。Wedidnot,however,remainin-
doorsthroughoutthewholeoftheday,butwentinandout,huntingforfoodandcatchinggamejustasusual;thetorrentialrainwhichbeatdownuponournakedbodiesbeingratherapleasantexperiencethanotherwise。Atthistimewehadawelcomeadditiontoourfoodintheformofcabbage-palmsandwildhoney。Wealsostartedbuildingacatamaran,withwhichtonavigatetheriverwhenthefloodshadsubsided。Yambaprocuredafewtrunksofverylighttimber,andthesewefastenedtogetherwithlongpinsofhardwood,andthenboundthemstillmorefirmlytogetherwithstripsofkangaroohide。Wealsocollectedastockofprovisionstotakewithus——kangarooandopossummeat,ofcourse;butprincipallywildhoney,cabbage-palm,androotsofvariouskinds。Thesepreparationstookusseveraldays,andbythetimewehadarrangedeverythingforourjourneytheweatherhadbecomesettledoncemore。YambaremarkedtomethatifwesimplydrifteddowntheRoperRiverweshouldbecarriedtotheopensea;norwouldwebeverylong,sincetheswollencurrentwasnowrunninglikeamill-
race。Ourcatamaran,ofcourse,affordednoshelterofanykind,butwecarriedsomesheetsofbarktoformseatsforourselvesandthedog。
Atlengthwepushedoffonoureventfulvoyage,andnosoonerhadwegotfairlyintothecurrentthanwewerecarriedalongwithprodigiousrapidity,andwithouttheleastexertiononourpart,exceptinthematterofsteering。Thiswasdonebymeansofpaddlesfromthesideofthecraft。WemadesuchrapidprogressthatIfeltinclinedtogoonallnight,butshortlyafterduskYambapersuadedmetopullin-shoreandcamponthebankuntilmorning,becauseofthedangeroftravellingatnightamongthelogsandotherwreckagethatfloatedaboutonthesurfaceofthewater。
Wepassedanynumberofsubmergedtrees,andonseveralofthesefoundsnakescoiledamongthebranches。Someofthesereptileswecaughtandate。Aboutthemiddleoftheseconddayweheardatremendousroarahead,asthoughtherewererapidsinthebedoftheriver。Itwasnowimpossibletopullthecatamaranoutofitscourse,nomatterhowhardwemighthavestriven,thecurrentbeingabsolutelyirresistible。Thebanksnarrowedastherapidswerereached,withtheresultthatthewaterinthemiddleactuallybecameCONVEX,sotremendouswastherushinthatnarrowgorge。
Yambacriedouttometolieflatonthecatamaran,andholdonastightlyasIcoulduntilwereachedsmoothwateragain。Thisshedidherself,seizingholdofthedogalso。
Nearerandnearerwewereswepttothegreatseethingcaldronofboilingandfoamingwaters,andatlast,withatremendoussplashweenteredtheterrifyingcommotion。Wewentrightunder,andsogreatwastheforceofthewater,thathadInotbeenclingingtenaciouslytothecatamaranImustinfalliblyhavebeensweptawaytocertaindeath。Presently,however,weshotintolesstroubledwatersandthencontinuedourcourse,verylittletheworseforhavingbravedtheseterriblerapids。Hadourcraftbeenadug-outboat,asIoriginallyintendedittobe,wemustinevitablyhavebeenswamped。Againwecampedonshorethatnight,andwereoffatanearlyhournextmorning。Asweglidedswiftlyon,Inoticedthattheriverseemedtobegrowingtremendouslywide。Yambaexplainedthatwewerenowgettingintoveryflatcountry,andthereforethegreatstretchofwaterwasamereflood。Shealsoprophesiedaratherbadtimeforus,asweshouldnotbeabletogoashoreatnightandreplenishourstockofprovisions。Fortunatelywehadasufficientsupplywithusonthecatamarantolastatleasttwoorthreedayslonger。ThelasttimewelandedYambahadstockedanadditionalquantityofediblerootsandsmokedmeats,andalthoughwelostaconsiderableportionoftheseinshootingtherapids,therestillremainedenoughforafewdays”supply。
Inconsequenceoftheever-increasingwidthoftheriver,Ifounditadifficultmattertokeepinthechannelwherethecurrentwas,soIgaveupthesteeringpaddletoYamba,whoseemedinstinctivelytoknowwhatcoursetotake。
Onandonwewent,untilatlengththewholecountryasfarastheeyecouldreachwasonevastsea,extendingvirtuallytothehorizon;itssluggishsurfaceonlybrokenbythetopsofthesubmergedtrees。Onedaywesightedanumberoflittleisletssomedistanceahead,andthenwefeltwemustbenearingthemouthoftheriver。Thelastdayortwohadbeenfullofanxietyandinconvenienceforus,forwehadbeensimplydriftingaimlesslyon,withoutbeingabletolandandstretchourcrampedlimbsorindulgeinacomfortablesleep。Thusthesightoftheislandswasagreatrelieftous,andmyever-faithfulandconsideratecompanionremarkedthataswehadnothingtofearnow,andIwaswearywithmyvigilofthepreviousnight,Ihadbettertryandgetalittlesleep。AccordinglyIlaydownonthecatamaran,andhadbarelyextendedmylimbswhenIfellfastasleep。Iawoketwoorthreehourslater,atmid-day,andwassurprisedtofindthatourcatamaranwasnotmoving。Iraisedmyselfup,onlytofindthatwehadapparentlydriftedamongthetopsofaringoftreesrisingfromasubmergedisland。“Halloa!“IsaidtoYamba,“arewestuck?““No,“sherepliedquietly,“butlookround。”
YoumayjudgeofmyhorrorandamazementwhenIsawoutsidethecuriousringoftree-tops,scoresofhugealligatorspeeringatuswithhorridstoliditythroughthebranches,someofthemsnappingtheircapaciousjawswithaviciousnessthatleftnodoubtastoitsmeaning。Yambaexplainedtomethatshehadbeenobligedtotakerefugeinthispeculiarbutconvenientshelter,becausethealligatorsseemedtobeswarminginvastnumbersinthatpartoftheriver。Shehadeasilyforcedawayforthecatamaranthroughthebranches,andoncepast,haddrawnthemtogetheragain。Theferociousmonsterscouldcertainlyhaveforcedtheirwayintotheinclosureafterus,buttheydidn”tseemtorealisethatsuchathingwaspossible,apparentlybeingquitecontenttoremainoutside。Judge,then,ourpositionforyourself——withascantyfoodsupply,onafrailplatformoflogs,floatingamongthetree-
tops,andliterallybesiegedbycrowdsofloathsomealligators!
Nordidweknowhowlongourimprisonmentwaslikelytolast。Ourpoordog,too,wasterriblyfrightened,andsatwhiningandtremblinginamostpitiablewayinspiteofreassuringwordsandcaressesfromYambaandmyself。IconfessthatIwasverymuchalarmed,forthemonsterswouldoccasionallyemitamostpeculiarandterrifyingsound——notunliketheroarofalion。Hourafterhourwesatthereontheswayingcatamaran,prayingferventlythatthehideousreptilesmightleaveus,andletuscontinueourjourneyinpeace。Asdarknessbegantodescenduponthevastwasteofwaters,itoccurredtometomakeabolddashthroughtheserriedranksofourbesiegers,butYambarestrainedme,tellingmeitmeantcertaindeathtoattempttorunthegantletundersuchfearsomecircumstances。
Nightcameon。HowcanIdescribeitshorrors?EvenasIwrite,I
seemtoheartheceaselessroarsofthosehorriblecreatures,andtheweirdbutgentlelappingsofthelimitlesswastethatextendedasfarastheeyecouldreach。OftenIwastemptedtogiveupindespair,feelingthattherewasnohopewhateverforus。Towardsmorning,however,thealligatorsapparentlygotonthescentofsomefloatingcarcassesbroughtdownbythefloods,andoneandallleftus。Somelittletimeafterthelastuglyheadhadgoneunder,thecatamaranwassweepingswiftlyandnoiselesslydownthestreamagain。
Wemadestraightforalittleislandsomedistanceaheadofus,andfoundituninhabited。Blackandwhitebirds,notquitesolargeaspigeons,wereveryplentiful,asalsowereeggs。SoonmyYambahadanicemealreadyforme,andthenwelaydownforamuch-neededrest。Afterthiswesteeredforalargeislandsomenineortenmilesdistant,andasweapproachedwecouldseethatthisoneWAS
inhabited,fromthesmoke-signalsthenativessentupthemomenttheycaughtsightofus。
Aswecamenearerwecouldseetheblacksassemblingonthebeachtomeetus,but,farfromshowinganyfriendliness,theyheldtheirspearspoisedthreateningly,andwouldnodoubthavethrownthemhadInotsuddenlyjumpedtomyfeetandmadesignsthatIwishedtositdownwiththem——toparleywiththem。Theythenloweredtheirspears,andwelanded;buttomygreatdisappointmentneitherYambanorIcouldunderstandonewordoftheirlanguage,whichwastotallydifferentfromthedialectofYamba”scountry。Ourfirstmeetingwasconductedintheusualway——squattingdownonourhaunches,andthendrawingnearerandneareruntilwewereabletorubnosesononeanother”sshoulders。IthenexplainedbymeansofsignsthatIwantedtostaywiththemafewdays,andIwasinexpressiblyrelievedtofindthatmylittlepassportstick(whichneverleftmypossessionforamoment),wasrecognisedatonce,andprovedmostefficaciousgenerally。AfterthisIbecamemorefriendlywithmyhosts,andtoldthembysignsthatIwaslookingforwhitepeoplelikemyself,whereupontheyrepliedIshouldhavetogostillfarthersouthtofindthem。Theytookustotheircamp,andprovideduswithfood,consistingmainlyoffish,shell-
fish,androots。SofarasIcouldascertain,therewerenokangaroooropossumontheisland。Aftertwoorthreedays,I
thoughtittimetobecontinuingourjourney;butfeelingconvincedthatImustbeinthevicinityoftheCapeYorkPeninsula——insteadofbeingonthewestcoastoftheGulfofCarpentaria——Idecidednottogosouthatall,buttostrikeduenorth,whereIfeltcertainSomersetPointlay;andIalsoresolvedtotravelbyseathistime,theblackshavingpresentedmewithaveryunsubstantial“dug-out“canoe。Leavingbehindusthecatamaranthathadbroughtussomanyhundredsofmiles,wesetoutonourtravelsoncemore——
takingcare,however,nevertolosesightofthecoast-lineonaccountofourfrailcraft。Wepassedseveralbeautifulislands,bigandlittle,andononethatwelandedIcameacrosssomenativechalkdrawingsonthefaceoftherock。Theydepictedrudefiguresofmen——Idon”trememberanyanimals——butwerenotnearlysowelldoneasthedrawingsIhadseenincavesupintheCapeLondonderrydistrict。
Wealsolandedfromtimetotimeonthemainland,andspokewiththechiefsofvarioustribes。Theywereallhostileatfirst。OnoneoccasionweactuallymetoneortwoblackswhospokeafewwordsofEnglish。Theyhadevidentlybeenoutwithpearlersatsometimeintheirlives,buthadreturnedtotheirnativewildsmanyyearsbeforeourvisit。Iaskedthemiftheyknewwherewhitemenweretobefound,andtheypointedeast(CapeYork),andalsoindicatedthatthewhitesweremanymoons”journeyawayfromus。I
wassorelypuzzled。AglanceatamapofAustraliawillenablethereadertorealisemygreatblunder。IgnorantalmostofAustraliangeographyIfancied,onreachingthewesternshoresoftheGulfofCarpentaria,thatIhadstrucktheCoralSea,andthatallIhadtodowastostrikenorthtoreachSomerset,thewhitesettlementI
hadheardaboutfromthepearlers。IfeltsoconfidentCapeYorklayimmediatelytothenorth,thatIcontinuedmycourseinthatdirection,paddlingalldayandrunningin-shoretocampatnight。
Welivedmainlyonshell-fishandsea-birds”eggsatthistime,andaltogetherlifebecameterriblywearisomeandmonotonous。This,however,wasmainlyowingtomyanxiety。
AboutafortnightafterleavingthemouthoftheRoperRiverwecametoaplacewhichInowknowtobePointDale。WethensteeredsouthintoabeautifullandlockedpassagewhichliesbetweenthemainlandandElchoIsland,andwhichatthetimeItooktobethelittlestraitrunningbetweenAlbanyIslandandCapeYork。I
steeredsouth-westinconsequence;andafteratime,asIdidnotsightthepointsIwasonthelook-outfor,Ifeltcompletelynonplused。WelandedonElchoIslandandspentadayortwothere。
BeingstillundertheimpressionthatCapeYorkwashigherup,I
steeredwest,andsoonfoundmyselfinaveryunpleasantregion。
Weexploredalmosteverybayandinletwecameacross,butofcoursealwayswiththesamedishearteningresult。Sometimeswewouldcomenearbeingstrandedonasandbank,andwouldhavetojumpoverboardandpushourcraftintodeeperwater。Atothers,shewouldbealmostswampedinaroughsea,butstillwestucktoourtask,andafterpassingGoulbournIslandwefollowedthecoast。
Thenwestrucknorthuntilwegotamongagroupofislands,andcametoCrokerIsland,whichgoesdirectnorthandsouth。Dayafterdaywekeptdoggedlyon,huggingtheshoreveryclosely,goinginandoutofeverybay,andvisitingalmosteveryisland,yetneverseeingasinglehumanbeing。Wewereapparentlystillmanyhundredsofmilesawayfromourdestination。Toaddtothewretchednessofthesituation,mypoorYamba,whohadbeensodevoted,sohardy,andsocontented,atlengthbegantomanifestsymptomsofillness,andcomplainedgentlyofthewearinessofitall。“Youarelooking,“shewouldsay,“foraplacethatdoesnotexist。Youarelookingforfriendsofwhoseveryexistenceyouareunaware。”Iwouldnotgivein,however,andpersuadedherthatallwouldbewellintime,ifonlyshewouldcontinuetobearwithme。
Bothofuswereterriblycrampedintheboat;andbywayofexerciseoneortheotherwouldoccasionallyjumpoverboardandhavealongswim。Wheneverwecouldwelandedatnight。
Onemorning,shortlyafterwehadbegunourusualtripfortheday,andwereroundingaheadland,Iwasalmoststupefiedtobeholdinfrontofmethemastsofaboat(whichIafterwardsfoundtobeaMalayproa),closein-shore。Thesituation,inreality,wasbetweenCroker”sIslandandthemain,butatthetimeIthoughtthatIhadatlengthreachedSomerset。Isprangtomyfeetinastateofthegreatestexcitement。“ThankGod!thankGod!“I
shoutedtoYamba;“wearesavedatlast!——saved——saved——saved!“AsIshouted,Ipulledthecanoeroundandmadeforthevesselwithallpossibledespatch。Weverysooncameupwithher,andfoundheralmoststranded,inconsequenceofthelownessofthetide。I
promptlyclamberedaboard,butfailedtofindasoul。Ithoughtthisratherstrange,butasIcouldseeahutnotveryfaraway,closetothebeach,Isteeredtowardsit。Thislittledwelling,too,wasuninhabited,thoughIfoundanumberoftraysoffishlyingabout,whichafterwardsIfoundtobebeche-de-merbeingdriedandsmoked。Suddenly,whileYambaandIwereinvestigatingtheinteriorofthehut,anumberofMalaysunexpectedlyappearedonthescene,andIthenrealisedIhadhadthegoodfortunetocomeacrossaMalaybeche-de-merexpedition。
ThefishermenwereexceedinglysurprisedatseeingYambaandme;
butwhentheyfoundIcouldspeaktheirlanguagealittletheyevincedeverysignofdelight,andforthwithentertainedusmosthospitablyonboardtheircraft,whichwasaboatoftenorfifteentons。TheytoldmetheyhadcomefromtheDutchislandssouthofTimor,andpromptlymademeanofferthatsetmyheartbeatingwildly。TheysaidtheywerepreparedtotakemebacktoKopang,ifIwished;andI,onmypart,offeredtogivethemallthepearlshellsleftonmylittleislandintheSeaofTimor——thelatitudeofwhichItookgoodcarenottodivulge——onconditionthattheycalledthere。TheyevenofferedYambaapassagealongwithme;
but,tomyamazementandbitterdisappointment,shesaidshedidnotwishtogowiththem。Shetrembledasthoughwithfear。Shewasafraidthatwhenoncewewereonboard,theMalayswouldkillmeandkeepher。
OneotherreasonforthisfearIknew,butitinnowaymitigatedmyacutegriefatbeingobligedtodeclinewhatwouldprobablybemyonlychanceofreturningtocivilisation。ForthisIhadpineddayandnightforfourorfiveyears,andnowthatescapewaswithinmygraspIwasobligedtothrowitaway。Forletmeemphaticallystate,thatevenifcivilisationhadbeenbutamileaway,Iwouldnothavegoneayardtowardsitwithoutthatdevotedcreaturewhohadbeenmysalvation,notononeoccasiononly,butpracticallyeverymomentofmyexistence。
WithpassionateeagernessItriedtopersuadeYambatochangehermind,butsheremainedfirminherdecision;andso,almostchokingwithbitterregret,andinastateofuttercollapse,IhadtodeclinetheofferoftheMalays。Westayedwiththem,however,afewweekslonger,andatlengththeyaccompaniedmetoacampofblackfellowsnearsomelagoons,alittlewayfarthersouthoftheirowncamp。Beforetheyleft,theypresentedmewithaquantityofbeche-de-mer,orsea-slugs,whichmakemostexcellentsoup。AttheplaceindicatedbytheMalays,whichwasinRafflesBay,thechiefspokequiteexcellentEnglish。OneofhiswivescouldevensaytheLord”sPrayerinEnglish,though,ofcourse,shedidnotknowwhatshewastalkingabout。“CaptainJackDavis,“ashecalledhimself,hadbeenforsomelittletimeononeofherMajesty”sships,andhetoldmethatnotmanymarchesawaytherewasanoldEuropeansettlement;heevenofferedtoguidemethere,ifIcaredtogo。HefirstledmetoanoldwhitesettlementinRafflesBay,called,Ithink,FortWellington,whereIfoundsomelargefruit-trees,includingripeyellowmangoes。Therewere,besides,raspberries,strawberries,andCapegooseberries。
Needlesstoremark,allthismademeveryhappyandcontented,forIfeltImustnowbegettingnearthehomeofsomewhitemen。I
thoughtthat,afterall,perhapsYamba”srefusaltogowiththeMalayswasforthebest,andwithhighhopesIsetoutwithCaptainDavisforanothersettlementhespokeof。ThisturnedouttobePortEssington,whichwereachedintwoorthreedays。Anothercruelblowwasdealtmehere。
Youcanperhapsformsomeideaofmypoignantdismayanddisappointmentonfindingthatthisdreary-lookingplaceofswampsandmarsheswasquitedeserted,althoughtherewerestillanumberofruinedbrickhouses,gardens,andorchardsthere。TheblackstoldmethatatonetimeithadbeenoneofthemostimportantpenalsettlementsinAustralia,buthadtobeabandonedonaccountoftheprevalenceofmalarialfeverarisingfromtheswampsintheneighbourhood。Icameacrossanumberofgraves,whichwereevidentlythoseoftheexiledsettlers;andoneofthewoodenheadstonesborethenameofCaptainHill(Ithinkthatwasthename)。Ihaveanideathatthefenceroundthisoldcemeterystillremained。Therewasfoodinabundanceatthisplace——raspberries,bananas,andmangoesgrewinprofusion;whilstthemarsheswereinhabitedbyvastflocksofgeese,ducks,whiteibis,andotherwild-fowl。Indeedintheswampsthebirdsroseinsuchprodigiousnumbersasactuallytoobscurethefaceofthesun。HereforthefirsttimeIsawweb-footedbirdsperchedintrees。
Theblackshadaverypeculiarmethodofcatchingwater-fowl。Theywouldsimplywadethroughthereedsintothewateralmostuptotheirnecks,andthencovertheirheadswithahandfulofreeds。
Remainingperfectlystill,theywouldimitatethecryofdifferentwild-fowl。Thenataconvenientopportunity,theywouldsimplyseizeagooseoraduckbytheleg,anddragitdownunderthewateruntilitwasdrowned。Thenumberofwater-fowlcaughtinthiswaybyasingleblackfellowwastrulyastonishing。
AfterhavingremainedafortnightatPortEssingtonitself,wereturnedtoRafflesBay,whereYambaandImadeacampamongtheblacksandtookupourresidenceamongthem;forCaptainDavishadtoldmethatshipscalledthereoccasionally,anditwaspossiblethatonemightcallsoonfromPortDarwin。Thevessels,headded,cameforbuffalomeat——ofwhichmorehereafter。Ihaddecidedtoremainamongthesepeoplesomelittletime,becausetheyknewsomuchaboutEuropeans,andIfeltsureofpickingupknowledgewhichwouldproveusefultome。
CHAPTERVIII
Inthethroesoffever——Aghastlydiscovery——Pitifulrelics——A
criticalmoment——Yambaindanger——Abloodbath——Aluxuryindeed——
Signsofcivilisation——Thegreatstorm——Drifting,drifting——Yamba”smysteriousglee——Adreadfulshock”Welcomehome!“——Myofficialprotectors——Myselfasacannibalwarchief——Preparationsforbattle——Aweirdapparition——Generositytothevanquished——Theolddesire。
Ihadnotbeenestablishedinthiscampmanydays,however,beforeIwasstruckdown,forthefirsttime,withaterribleattackofmalarialfever,probablyproducedbythemanyhoursIhadspentwadingintheswampsatPortEssington。Thereweretheusualsymptoms——quickflushingsandfeverheats,followedbyviolentfitsofshivering,whichnoamountofnaturalwarmthcouldmitigate。MyfaithfulYambawasterriblydistressedatmycondition,andwaiteduponmewithmosttenderdevotion;butinspiteofallthatcouldbedoneforme,Igrewgraduallyweaker,untilinthecourseofafewdaysIbecamewildlydelirious。Theblacks,too,wereverygoodtome,anddoctoredme,intheirquaintnativeway,withcertainleavesandpowders。Alltonopurpose,however;andforseveraldaysIwasevenunabletorecognisemyYamba。Thenthefeversubsidedsomewhat,andIwasleftasweakandhelplessasalittlechild。
ItwassometimebeforeIquiterecoveredfromthefever;andIwasfrequentlyseizedwithdistressingfitsofshivering。Ialsoexperiencedanoverwhelmingdesireforadrinkofmilk;why,Iamunabletosay。Therefore,whensomeoftheblackstoldmethatwildbuffaloweretobefoundintheneighbourhood——beastswhichhadformerlybelongedtosettlers,butwerenowrunwild——I
resolved,whensufficientlystrong,totryandcaptureoneofthecowsforthesakeofitsmilk。CaptainDavisridiculedtheidea,andassuredmethatitwasonlypossibletoslayonewitharifle;
butIdeterminedtoseewhatIcoulddo。
Yamba,ofcourse,accompaniedmeonmyexpedition,andherbushmanshipwasaltogetherquiteindispensable。Wecameuponbuffalotracksnearalargewater-hole,andhereweeachclimbedagum-treeandawaitedthearrivalofourprey。Wewaitedalongtime,butwereatlengthrewardedbyseeingabigcowbuffaloandhercalfwanderingleisurelyinourdirection。Myonlyweaponswerealassomadeoutofgreenkangaroohide,fixedtotheendofalongpole;andmybowandarrows。Isliddownthetreealittleway,andwhenthecalfwasnearenough,Igentlyslippedthenooseoveritsneck,andpromptlymadeitaprisonerundertheverynoseofitsastonishedmother,whobellowedmournfully。MysuccesssoelatedYambathatshe,too,sliddownfromherhiding-place,andwasmakingherwayovertomeandthecalf,whensuddenlyanenormousbull,whichwehadnotpreviouslyseen,rushedatheratfullspeed。Yambainstantlyrealisedherdanger,andswarmedupatreeagainlikelightning,justasthegreatbrutewasuponher。I
calledouttohertoattracttheattentionoftheoldbullwhilstI
attendedtothemotherandcalf。Idroppedmypoletowhichthelassowasattached,andallowedthelittleonetowalkquicklyawaywithit;but,asIanticipated,thetrailingshaftsooncaughtbetweenthestumpsofsometrees,andmadethecalfamoresecureprisonerthanever。Itwasacuriousrepetitionofthestoryofthetwowhales。Themotherwalkedroundandround,andappearedtobeinthegreatestdistress。Sheneverleftherlittleone”sside,butcontinuedtobellowloudly,andlickthecalftocoaxitaway。
Quietlyslidingdownmytree,ImademywaytowhereYambawasstillholdingtheattentionofthebull——afierybrutewhowaspawingthegroundwithrageatthefootofhertree。Ihadfittedanarrowtomybow,andwaspreparingtoshoot,when,unfortunately,thebulldetectedthenoiseofmyapproach,andrushedstraightatme。Iconfessitwasratheratryingmoment,butIneverlostmyhead,feelingconfidentofmyskillwiththebow——whichIhadpractisedoffandoneversinceIhadleftschoolatMontreux。Iactuallywaiteduntilthechargingmonsterwaswithinafewpaces,andthenIletfly。Soclosewashethatnotmuchcreditisduetomeforaccurateaim。Thearrowfairlytransfixedhisrighteye,causinghimtopulluponhishaunches,androarwithpain。
Yamba,fullofanxiety,hurrieddownhertree;butshehadscarcelyreachedthegroundwhenthebaffledbullwheeledandchargedher,withmorefurythanever。Shesimplyglidedbehindatree,andthenIshowedmyselfandinducedthebulltochargemeoncemore。
AgainIwaiteduntilhewasalmostuponme,andthenIsentanotherarrowintohisothereye,blindinghimcompletely。Onthis,thepoorbrutebroughtupsharp,andcommencedtobackinanuncertainway,bellowingwithpain。Iforgotallmyfeverintheexcitement,andrushinguponthebeastwithmytomahawk,Idealthimablowonthesideoftheheadthatmadehimstagger。Ibroughthimtotheearthwithtwoorthreemoreblows,andafewminuteslaterhadadministeredthecoup-de-grace。NosoonerwasthebigbulldeadthanIdeterminedtotesttheefficacyofaverypopularnativeremedyforfever——forshiveringfitsstillcontinuedtocomeuponmeatmostawkwardtimes,usuallylateintheday。NomatterhowmuchgrasspoorYambabroughtmeascovering,Inevercouldgetwarm,andsonowIthoughtIwouldtrysomeanimalheat。
ScarcehadlifeleftthebodyoftheprostratebullbeforeIrippedopenthecarcassbetweentheforeandhindlegs;andafterremarkingtoYamba,“Iamgoingtohaveheatthistime,“Icrawledintotheinterior。Myhead,however,wasprotrudingfromthebuffalo”schest。YambaunderstoodperfectlywellwhatIwasdoing;
andwhenItoldherIwasgoingtoindulgeinalongsleepinmycuriousresting-place,shesaidshewouldkeepwatchandseethatI
wasnotdisturbed。Iremainedburiedinthebull”sinteriorfortherestofthedayandallthroughthenight。Nextmorning,tomyamazement,IfoundIwasaprisoner,thecarcasshavinggotcoldandrigid,sothatIhadliterallytobedugout。AsIemergedI
presentedamostghastlyandhorrifyingspectacle。Mybodywascoveredwithcongealedblood,andevenmylonghairwasallmattedandstiffenedwithit。ButnevercanIforgetthefeelingofexhilarationandstrengththattookpossessionofmeasIstoodtherelookingatmyfaithfulcompanion。IWASABSOLUTELYCURED——anewman,agiantofstrength!Imakeapresentofthecuretothemedicalprofession。
WithoutdelayImademywaydowntothelagoonandwashedmyselfthoroughly,scrubbingmyselfwithakindofsoapyclay,andafterwardstakingaruninordertogetdry。Thisextraordinarysystemofapplyingthecarcassofafreshlykilledanimalisinvariablyresortedtobythenativesincaseofseriousillness,andtheylookuponitasanallbutinfalliblecure。Certainlyitwassurprisinglyefficaciousinmyowncase。
Nextdaywedirectedourattentiontothecaptureofthecow,whichwasstillwanderingaroundherimprisonedlittleone,andonlyleavingitforafewminutesatatimeinordertogetfood。I
constructedasmallfenceorinclosureofsticks,andintothiswemanagedtodrivethecow。Wethenkeptherfortwodayswithoutfoodandwater,inordertotameher,anddidnotevenletherlittlecalfcomenearher。Wethenapproachedher,andfoundherperfectlysubdued,andwillingtotakefoodandwaterfromuspreciselyasthoughshewerethegentlestAlderney。
IfoundIwasevenabletomilkher;andIcanassureyouthatI
nevertastedanythingmoredeliciousinmylifethanthecopiousdroughtsoffreshmilkIindulgedinonthateventfulmorning。Infact,Ipracticallylivedonnothingelseforthenextfewdays,anditpulledmeroundinamostsurprisingway。ThefleshofthedeadbuffaloIdidnottouchmyself,buthandeditovertotheblacks,whowerevastlyimpressedbymyprowessasamightyhunter。
Theythemselveshadoftentriedtokillbuffalowiththeirspears,buthadneversucceeded。Iremovedthebull”shide,andmadeabigrugoutofit,whichIfoundveryserviceableindeedinsubsequentwetseasons。Itwasashardasaboard,andnearlyhalfaninchthick。
WhenIreturnedto“CaptainDavis“andtherestofmyfriendsatRafflesBay,Iwasquitewellandstrongoncemore,andIstayedwiththemthreeorfourmonths,huntingalmosteveryday(therewereevenwildponiesandEnglishcattle——ofcourse,relicsoftheoldsettlement),andpickingupalltheinformationIcould。IhadmanyconversationswithDavishimself,andhetoldmethatIshouldprobablyfindwhitemenatPortDarwin,whichhesaidwasbetweenthreeandfourhundredmilesaway。ThetribeatPortEssington,I
maymention,onlynumberedaboutfiftysouls。Thiswasabouttheyear1868。CaptainDavis——whowaspassionatelyfondoftobacco,andwouldtravelalmostanydistancetoobtainanounceortwofromtheMalaybeche-de-merfishers——pointedouttomeablazedtreenearhiscamponwhichthefollowinginscriptionwascut:-
LUDWIGLEICHHARDT,OverlandfromSydney,1847。
Itwasthereforeevidentthatthisdistricthadalreadybeenvisitedbyawhiteman;andthefactthathehadcomeoverlandfilledmewithhopesthatsomedayI,too,mightreturntocivilisationinthesameway。TheEnglish-speakingblackchiefassuredmethathisfatherhadactedasguidetoLeichhardt,butwhetherthelattergotbacksafelytoSydneyagainheneverknew。
Thewhitetraveller,hesaid,leftPortEssingtoninaship。
Havingconsideredallthings,IdecidedtoattempttoreachPortDarwinbyboat,inthehopeoffindingEuropeanslivingthere。Atfirst,Ithoughtofgoingoverland,butindiscussingmyplanswith“CaptainDavis,“hetoldmethatIwouldhavetocrossswamps,fords,creeks,andrivers,someofwhichwerealivewithalligators。Headvisedmetogobywater,andalsotoldmetobecarefulnottobedrawnintoacertainlargebayIshouldcomeacross,becauseofthealligatorsthatswarmedonitsshores。Thebaythathewarnedmeagainstwas,Ithink,VanDieman”sGulf。Hetoldmetokeepstraightacrossthebay,andthenpassbetweenMelvilleIslandandthemain。Hefittedmeoutwithagoodstockofprovisions,includingaquantityofbeche-de-mer,cabbage-palm,fruit,&c。Iarrangedmybuffaloskinovermyprovisionsasaprotection,turtle-backfashion。Ourpreparationscompleted,YambaandIandthedogpushedoutintotheunknownseainourfrailcanoe,whichwasonlyaboutfifteenfeetlongandfourteenincheswide。Ofcourse,wekeptclosein-shoreallthetime,andmadeprettygoodprogressuntilwepassedApsleyStrait,avoidingthehugeVanDieman”sGulf,withitsalligator-infestedriversandcreeks。WemusthavebeenclosetoPortDarwinwhen,withlittleornowarning,aterrificstormarose,andquicklycarriedusouttoseainasouth-westerlydirection。Inamomentourfraillittlecraftwaspartiallyswamped,andYambaandIwerecompelledtojumpoverboardandhangontothegunwaleoneithersidetopreventitfrombeingoverwhelmedaltogether。ThiswasaboutafortnightafterIleftCaptainDavis。Weknewthatifwewereswamped,allourbelongings,includingmypoorBruno,mylivegeese,water,andotherprovisions,wouldbelostintheragingsea。Thenightthatfollowedwasperhapsoneofthemostappallingexperiencesthateverbefellme;butIhadbythistimebecomesoinuredtoterribletrialsthatImerelytookitasamatterofcourse。
Imagineforyourselfthescene。Thegiantwavesarerollingmountainshigh;thedarknessofnightisgatheringroundusfast,andIandmyheroicwifeareimmersedinthetremendoussea,hangingonfordearlifetoalittledug-outcanoeonlyfourteenincheswide。Althoughweweresoonthoroughlyexhaustedwithourimmersioninthewater,wedarednotclimbaboard。WillitbebelievedthatALLNIGHTLONGwewerecompelledtoremaininthesea,clingingtothecanoe,halfdrowned,andtossedaboutliketheinsignificantatomswewereinthemidstofthestupendouswaves,whichwereliterallyablazewithphosphorescentlight?Oftenasthoseterriblehourscrawledby,IwouldhaveletgomyholdandgivenupaltogetherwereitnotforYamba”scheeryandencouragingvoice,whichIheardabovetheterrificroarofthestorm,pointingouttomehowmuchwehadbeenthroughalready,andhowmanyfearfuldangerswehadsafelyencounteredtogether。Itseemedtomeliketheendofeverything。Ithoughtofacertainpoemrelatingtoamaninadesperatesituation,written,Ibelieve,byanAmerican,whosenameIcouldnotremember。Itdescribedtheheart-breakingeffortsmadebyaslavetoobtainhisfreedom。Howbloodhoundswereputuponhistrack;howheisatlastcorneredinaswamp,andashelookshelplesslyupatthestarsheaskshimself,“Isitlife,orisitdeath?“AsIhungontothelittledug-out,chilledtotheverymarrow,andmorethanhalfdrownedbytheenormousseas,Irecalledthewholepoemandappliedtheslave”sremarkstomyself。“Canitbepossible,“Isaid,“afterallthestrugglesIhavemadeagainstvaryingfortune,thatIamtomeetdeathnow?“Iwasinabsolutedespair。TowardstheearlyhoursofthemorningYambaadvisedmetogetintothecanoeforaspell,butsheherselfremainedhangingontothegunwale,tryingtokeeptheheadofthelittlecanoebeforetheimmensewavesthatwerestillrunning。Iwasverycoldandstiff,andfounditdifficulttoclimbaboard。Asthemorningadvanced,theseabegantoabatesomewhat,andpresentlyYambajoinedmeinthecanoe。Wewere,however,unabletoshapeourcourseforanysetquarter,sincebythistimewewereoutofsightoflandaltogether,andhadnoteventheslightestideaastoourposition。
Allthatdaywedriftedaimlesslyabout,andthen,towardsevening,aperfectcalmsettledonthesea。Whenweweresomewhatrestedwepaddledoninadirectionwhereweconcludedlandmustlie(westeeredsouth-eastforthemain);andinthecourseofafewhourswehadthesatisfactionofseeingalittlerockyisland,whichwepromptlymadeforandlandedupon。Hereweobtainedfoodinplentyintheformofbirds;butdrinking-waterwasnottobefoundanywhere,sowehadtofallbackonthesmallstockwealwayscarriedinskins。Judgingfromtheappearanceoftherocks,andthesmellthatpervadedtheplace,Iimaginedthatthismustbeaguanoisland。InowknewthatwewerenearPortDarwin,BUTASA
FACTWEHADPASSEDITINTHEGREATSTORM,WHILEWEWEREFIGHTING
FOROURLIVES。Wesleptontheislandthatnight,andfeltverymuchbetternextmorningwhenwestartedoutonourvoyageoncemore,visitingeverybayandinlet。Hope,too,begantoreassertitself,andIthoughtthatafterallwemightbeabletoreachPortDarwininspiteofthedistancewemusthavebeendrivenoutofourcourse。Severalislandsstuddedtheseathroughwhichwewerenowsteadilythreadingourway,andthateveningwelandedononeoftheseandcampedforthenight。Nextdaywewereoffagain,andastheweathercontinuedbeautifullyfinewemadesplendidprogress。
Oneeveningafewdaysafterthestorm,aswewereplacidlypaddlingaway,IsawYamba”sfacesuddenlybrightenwithalookI
hadneverseenonitbefore,andIfeltsurethispresagedsomeextraordinaryannouncement。Shewouldgazeupintotheheavenswithaquick,suddenmotion,andthenherintelligenteyeswouldsparklelikethestarsabove。Iquestionedher,butshemaintainedanunusualreserve,and,asIconcludedthatsheknewinstinctivelywewereapproachingPortDarwin,I,too,feltfullofjoyandpleasurethattheobjectofourgreatjourneywasatlengthabouttobeachieved。Alas!whatawaitedmewasonlythegreatestofalltheastoundingseriesofdisappointments——oneindeedsostunningastoplungemeintotheveryblackestdepthsofdespair。
Yambastillcontinuedtogazeupatthestars,andwhenatlengthshehadapparentlysatisfiedherselfuponacertainpoint,sheturnedtomewithashoutofexcitedlaughteranddelight,pointingfranticallyatacertainglowingstar。SeeingthatIwasstillpuzzledbyhermerriment,shecried,“Thatstarisoneyourememberwell。”Ireflectedforamoment,andthenthewholethingcametomelikeaflashoflightning。YAMBAWASAPPROACHINGHEROWNHOME
ONCEMORE——THEVERYPOINTFROMWHICHWEHADBOTHSTARTEDEIGHTEEN
MONTHSPREVIOUSLY!Inthestorm,asIhavealreadysaid,wehadpassedPortDarwinaltogether,havingbeendrivenouttosea。
Itellyou,myheartnearlyburstwhenIrecalledtheawfulprivationsandhardshipswehadbothexperiencedsorecently;andwhenIrealisedthatallthesethingshadbeenabsolutelyinvain,andthatoncemoremytremblinghopesweretobedashedtothegroundinthemostappallingmanner,Ifellbackintothecanoe,utterlycrushedwithhorrorandimpotentdisappointment。Wasthereeversoterribleanexperience?TakeamapofAustralia,andseeforyourselfmyfrightfulblunder——mistakingthewestcoastoftheGulfofCarpentariafortheeasternwatersoftheCapeYorkPeninsula,andthenblindlygropingnorthwardandwestwardinsearchofthesettlementofSomerset,whichinrealitylayhundredsofmilesnorth-eastofme。IwasunawareoftheveryexistenceofthegreatGulfofCarpentaria。Butwereitnotforhavinghadtosteernorthtogetoutofthewaterlessplains,Imightpossiblyhavereachedthenorth-easterncoastofthecontinentinduetime,avoidingtheRoperRiveraltogether。
Yambakneltbymysideandtriedtocomfortmeinherownsweet,quaintway,andshepicturedtome——scantconsolation——howgladherpeoplewouldbetohaveusbothbackamongstthemoncemore。ShealsourgedwhatagreatmanImightbeamongherpeopleifonlyI
wouldstayandmakemyhomewiththem。Evenhervoice,however,felldullyonmyears,forIwasfairlymadwithrageanddespair——
withmyself,fornothavinggoneoverlandtoPortDarwinfromPortEssington,as,indeed,IshouldmostcertainlyhavedonewereitnotthatDavishadassuredmethegreaterpartofthejourneylaythroughdeadlyswampsandcreeks,andgreatwatersswarmingwithalligators。IhadevenhadinmymindtheideaofattemptingtoREACHSYDNEYOVERLAND!butthoughtIwouldfirstofallseewhatfacilitiesinthewayofreachingcivilisationPortDarwinhadtooffer。Now,however,IwasbackagaininCambridgeGulf,——intheveryspotIhadleftayearandahalfago,andwhereIhadlandedwithmyfourblacksfromtheislandsand-spit。Butyou,myreaders,shalljudgeofmyfeelings。
Welandedonanislandatthemouthofthegulf,andYambamadesmoke-signalstoherfriendsonthemainland,tellingthemofourreturn。WeresolveditwouldneverdotoconfesswehadbeenDRIVENBACK。No,wehadroamedaboutandhadcomebacktoourdearfriendsofourownfree-will,feelingtherewasnoplacelikehome!
justthinkwhatarolethiswasformetoplay,——withmywholebeingthrillingwithanagonyofhelplessrageandbitterdisappointment。
Thistime,however,wedidnotwaitfortheblackstocomeoutandmeetus,butpaddledstraightforthebeach,wherethechiefsandallthetribewereassembledinreadinesstoreceiveus。Thefirstpoignantanguishbeingpassed,andthewarmthofwelcomebeingsocordialandexcessive(theycriedwithjoy),Ibegantofeelalittleeasierinmymindandmoreresignedtoinexorablefate。Theusualceremonyofnose-rubbingonshoulderswasgonethrough,andalmosteverynativepresentexpressedhisorherindividualdelightatseeingusagain。Thentheybesiegeduswithquestions,forwewerenowgreattravellers。Aspacious“humpy“orhutwasbuiltwithoutdelay,andtheblacksviedwithoneanotherinbringingmethingswhichIsorelyneeded,suchasfish,turtles,roots,andeggs。
Thateveningacorroboreeonagiganticscalewasheldinmyhonour;andoneverysidetheblacksmanifestedgreatrejoicingatmyreturn,which,ofcourse,theyneverdreamedwasinvoluntary。
Humannatureis,asIfound,thesametheworldover,andonereasonformywarmwelcomewas,thatmyblackshadjustbeenseverelythrashedbyaneighbouringtribe,andwereconvincedthatifIwouldhelpthemtoretaliate,theycouldnotfailtoinflicttremendouspunishmentupontheirenemies。Bythistime,havingbecome,asIsaidbefore,somewhatresignedtomyfate,Iconsentedtoleadthemintheirnextbattle,onconditionthattwoshield-
bearerswereprovidedtoprotectmefromtheenemy”sspears。ThisbeingthefirsttimeIhadeverundertakenwaroperationswithmyfriends,Ideterminedthattheexperimentshouldrunnoriskoffailure,andthatmydignityshouldinnowaysuffer。Ideclared,firstofall,thatIwouldchooseasmyshield-bearersthetwomostexpertmeninthetribe。Therewasmuchcompetitionforthesehonouredposts,andmanywarriorsdemonstratedtheirskillbeforeme。
AtlengthIchosetwostalwartfellows,namedrespectivelyWarrigaandBommera,andeverydayforaweektheyconductedsometrialmanoeuvreswiththeirfriends。Therewouldbeakindofambushprepared,andflightsofspearswouldbehurledatme,onlytobewardedoffwithastonishingdexteritybymyalertattendants。AllIwasprovidedwithwasmysteeltomahawkandbowandarrows。I
neverreallybecameexpertwiththespearandshield,andIknewonlytoowellthatifIhandledtheseclumsilyIshouldimmediatelyloseprestigeamongtheblacks。
Afteraweekortwoofpracticeandshamcombats,Ifeltmyselfprettysafewithmytwoprotectors,andIthenbeganorganisinganarmytoleadagainsttheenemy。AltogetherIcollectedabout100
fightingmen,eacharmedwithabundleofthrowingspears,ashieldmadeoflightwood,andashort,heavywaddyorclubforuseatclosequarters。Wheneverythingwasinreadiness,Imarchedoffattheheadofmy“army“andinvadedtheenemy”scountry。Wewerefollowedbytheusualcrowdofwomen-folk,whosawtothecommissariatdepartmentanddidthetransportthemselves。Onthefirstdayout,wehadtofordalargestream——abranchoftheVictoriaRiver,Ithink——andatlengthreachedasuitableplaceinwhichtoengagetheenemy。Itisdifficultformetofixtheexactlocality,butIshouldjudgeittobebetweenMurchisonandNewcastleranges。Thecountryinwhichtheoperationstookplacewasafineopengrassyplain,thinlyskirtedwithtreesandwithmountainsalmostencirclingitinthedistance。
Ioughtheretodescribemypersonalappearanceonthisimportantday,when,forthefirsttime,Iposedasagreatchief,andledmypeopleintobattle,filledwiththesameenthusiasmthatanimatedthem。Myhairwasbuiltuponstripsofwhalebonetoaheightofnearlytwofeetfrommyhead,andwasdecoratedwithblackandwhitecockatoofeathers。Myface,whichhadnowbecomeverydarkfromexposuretothesun,wasdecoratedinfourcolours——yellow,white,black,andred。
Thereweretwoblack-and-whitearchedstripesacrosstheforehead,andayellowcurvinglineacrosseachcheekundertheeye。Ialsoworeafairlylongbeard,moustache,andside-whiskers。Therewerefourdifferent-colouredstripesoneacharm,whilstonthebodywerefourvari-colouredstripes,twooneachside;andalong,yellow,curvingstripeextendedacrossthestomach,belt-wise。
AroundmymiddleIworeakindofdoubleapronofemuskin,withfeathers。Therewereotherstripesofdifferent-colouredochresonmylegs,sothataltogetheryoumayimagineIpresentedaterrifyingappearance。Ofthis,however,Isoongrewquiteoblivious——afactwhichIafterwardshadoccasionbitterlytoregret。Itwere,indeed,wellformethatIhadonsubsequentoccasionsrealisedbetterthebizarrenatureofmyappearance,forhadIdonesoIwouldprobablyhavereachedcivilisationyearsbeforeIdid。
Atthisperiod,then,youfindmeafullyequippedwarchiefofthecannibalblacks,leadingthemontobattleattiredasoneoftheirownchiefsineveryrespect,andwithnearlyalltheirtribalmarksonmybody。Whenwereachedthebattle-ground,mymensentupsmoke-signalsofdefiance,announcingthefactofourinvasion,andchallengingtheenemytocomedownfromthemountainsandfightus。
Thischallengewaspromptlyrespondedtobyothersmoke-signals,butasatleastadaymustelapsebeforeourantagonistscouldarriveIspenttheintervalindevisingaplanofbattle——oddlyenough,onthelinesofafamoushistoricSwissencounteratGrandsonfiveorsixcenturiesago。
Iarrangedthatfiftyorsixtymen,undertheleadershipofachief,shouldoccupysomehighgroundinourrear,toformakindofambush。
Theywerealsotoactasareserve,andwereinstructedtocomerushingtoourassistancewhenIsignalledforthem,yellingouttheirweirdwar-cryof“Warra-hoo-oo,——warra-hoo-oo!“Iconcludedthatthisinitselfwouldstriketerrorintotheheartsofouropponents,whowereaccustomedtoseethewholeforceengagedatonetime,andknewnothingabouttroopsheldinreserve,ortacticsofanykindwhatsoever。Thenativemethodofprocedure,as,I
think,Ihavealreadyremarked,wasusuallytodashpell-mellatoneanotheraftertheabuseandfight,untilonesideortheotherdrewblood,withoutwhichnovictorycouldbegained。
JustbeforethebattlecommencedIhadarealinspirationwhichpracticallydecidedtheaffairwithoutanyfightingatall。ItoccurredtomethatifImountedmyselfonstilts,someeighteenincheshigh,andshotanarrowortwofrommybow,theenemywouldturntailandbolt。Andsoitturnedout。Asthearmiesapproachedoneanotherinfullbattlearraytheypresentedquiteanimposingappearance,andwhenasuitabledistanceseparatedthemtheyhaltedfortheinevitableabusiveparley。Intotheundignifiedabuse,needlesstoremark,Ididnotenter,butkeptwellinthebackground。Thespokesmanofmytribeaccusedtheenemyofbeingwithoutpluck——saidthattheywerecowards,andwouldsoonhavetheirliverseatenbytheinvaders。Therewasanyamountofspear-brandishing,yelling,andgesticulating。Fortheseblacksapparentlyfinditimpossibletocomeuptoactualfightingpitchwithoutfirstbeingworkeduptoanextraordinarydegreeofexcitement。
Whenatlengththeabusehadgotperfectlydelirious,andthefirstspearwasabouttobethrown,Idashedtothefrontonmystilts。
Severalspearswerelaunchedatme,butmyshield-bearersturnedthemononeside。Ithenshothalf-a-dozenarrowsintotheenemy”sranksinalmostasmanyseconds。Theconsternationproducedbythisflightof“invisiblespears“wasperfectlyindescribable。
Withaseriesofappallingyellstheenemyturnedandfledpell-
mell。Mymengavechase,andwoundedmanyofthem。Inthemidstoftherout(therulingthoughtbeingalwaysuppermost),itoccurredtomethatitmightbeausefulstrokeofbusinesstomakefriendswiththisvanquishedtribe,sincetheymightpossiblybeofservicetomeinthatjourneytocivilisation,theideaofwhichI
neverreallyabandonedfromthedayIwascastuponmylittlesand-
spit。Furthermore,itflashedacrossmymindthatifImadethesenomadictribesinterestedinmeandmypowers,newsofmyisolationmighttravelenormousdistancesinland——perhapseventothebordersofcivilisationitself。
Icommunicatedmyideastomymen,andtheypromptlyenteredintomyviews。Theyconsentedtohelpmewithgreatreadiness。WhileI
wasspeakingwiththem,thevanquishedwarriorshadre-formedintopositionsomethreeorfourhundredyardsaway,andwerewatchingourmovementswithmuchcuriosity。Inowabandonedmystiltsandmybowandarrows,andmarchedoffwithmychiefsinthedirectionofourlateopponents。
Asweapproached,withbranchesinourhandsasflagsoftruce,I
signedtothestartledmenthatwewishedtobefriendly;andwhenwehalted,severalchiefscameforwardunarmedfromtheranksoftheenemytoconferwithus。Atfirsttheyweremuchsurprisedatmyovertures,butIsoonconvincedthemofmysincerity,andtheyatlengthconsentedtoacceptmyoffersoffriendship。Theyacknowledgedatoncemysuperiorityandthatofmymen,andpresentlyallthechiefscameforwardvoluntarilyandsquattedatmyfeetintokenofsubjection。Thetwoarmiesthenunited,andweallreturnedtoagreatencampment,wherethewomenpreparedatrulycolossalfeastforconquerorsandconqueredalike,andthegreatestharmonyprevailed。Itwasmagnificent,butIamsureitwasnotwar。Thebravesofbothsidesdecoratedthemselveswithmanypigmentsintheevening,andthetwotribesunitedinonegiganticcorroboree,whichwaskeptupallnight,andforseveraldaysafterwards。Weremainedencampedinthisdistrictforaboutaweek,holdingcontinuouscorroboree,andeachdaybecomingmoreandmorefriendlywithourlateenemies。Thecountryaboundedingame,andastheriverswerealsowellstockedwithfishthesupplyoffoodwasabundant。Attheendoftheweek,however,weretiredtoourrespectivehomes,but,strangelyenough,IfeltIcouldnolongersettledowntotheoldlifeamongmyfriendlyblacks。
Theolddesireforwanderingcameoverme,andIresolvedthatsomedayinthenearfutureIwouldmakeyetanotherattempttoreachcivilisation,thistimestrikingdirectlysouth。Foratime,however,Iforcedmyselftoremaincontent,accompanyingthemenontheirhuntingexpeditionsandgoingoutfishingwithmydevotedYamba。
CHAPTERIX
Thechildren”ssports——Aterribleordeal——Queernotionsofbeauty——
Howlittlegirlsaretaught——Domesticquarrels——Telltalefootprints——Igrowweary——Offonalongcruise——Astoundingnews——A
foreigntongue——Yambahasseenthegirls——Aremarkable“letter“——A
queernotionofdecoration——Yambaas“advanceagent“——Imeetthegirls——Adistressinginterview——Jealousyofthenativewomen。
Iwasmuchinterestedinthechildrenoftheblacks,andobservedalltheirinterestingways。Itisnottoomuchtosayinthecaseofbothboysandgirlsthattheycanswimassoonastheycanwalk。
Thereisnosqueamishnesswhateveronthepartofthemothers,wholeavetheirlittleonestotumbleintorivers,andremainoutnakedintorrentialrains,andgenerallyshiftforthemselves。Fromthetimetheboysarethreeyearsoldtheycommencethrowingtoyspearsatoneanotherasapastime。Forthispurpose,longdryreeds,obtainedfromtheswamps,areused,andthelittlefellowspractisethrowingthematoneanotherfromvariousdistances,theonlyshieldsallowedbeingthepalmsoftheirownlittlehands。Theyneverseemtotireofthesport,andacquireamazingdexterityatit。Attheageofnineortentheyabandonthereedsandadoptaheavierspear,withawoodenshaftandapointofhardwoodorbone。Allkindsofinterestingcompetitionsareconstantlyorganisedtotesttheboys”skill,themostvaluedprizesbeingtheapprobationofparentsandelders。
Asmallringofhide,orcreeper,issuspendedfromthebranchofatree,andthecompetitorshavetothrowtheirspearscleanthroughitatadistanceoftwentypaces。Allthechiefsandfightingmenofthetribeassembletowitnessthesecompetitions,andoccasionallysomelittleawardismadeintheshapeofankletsandbanglesofsmallshells,strungtogetherwithhumanhair。Theboysareinitiatedintotheranksofthe“menandwarriors“whentheyreachtheageofaboutseventeen。
Thisinitiationceremony,bytheway,isofaveryextraordinarycharacter。Manyofthedetailscannotbepublishedhere。Asarule,ittakesplaceinthespring,whenthemimosaisinbloom,andothertribescomefromallpartstoeatthenutsandgum。Wewillsaythatthereare,perhaps,twentyyouthstoundergotheordeal,whichisconductedfarfromallcampsandquiteoutofthesightofwomenandchildren。Thecandidateprepareshimselfbymuchfasting,givingupmeataltogetherforatleastaweekbeforetheinitiationceremonycommences。Insomecasescandidatesaredespatchedonatrampextendingovermanydays;andsuchimplicitfaithisplacedintheirhonourthatjudgesarenotevensentwiththemtoseethateverythingiscarriedoutfairly。Theymustaccomplishthistaskwithinagivenperiod,andwithoutpartakingofeitherfoodorwaterduringthewholetime。Nomatterhowgreatthetemptationmaybeontheroute,theyconformstrictlytotherulesofthetest,andwouldassoonthinkofrunningthemselvesthroughwithaspear,asofseekingawater-hole。Theinspectorswhojudgeatthisamazingexaminationare,ofcourse,theoldandexperiencedchiefs。
Afterthefastingcomestheordealproper。Theunfortunatecandidatepresentshimselfbeforeoneoftheexaminers,andsettleshisfaceintoaperfectlystoicalexpression。Heisthenstabbedrepeatedlyontheoutsideofthethighsandinthearms(neveronceisanarterycut);andifheremainsabsolutelystatuesqueateachstab,hecomesthroughthemosttryingpartoftheordealwithflyingcolours。Amotionofthelips,however,oramutter——thesearealtogetherfatal。Notevenatoemustmoveinmuteagony;normayevenamuscleoftheeyelidgiveanuneasyandinvoluntarytwitch。Ifthecandidatefailsinaminordegree,heispromptlyputback,tocomeupagainforthenextexamination;butintheeventofhisbeingunabletostandthetorture,heiscontemptuouslytoldtogoandherdwiththewomen——thanwhichthereisnomorehumiliatingexpression。
Whileyetthecandidate”swoundsarestreamingwithblood,heisrequiredtorunwithlightningspeedfortwoorthreemilesandfetchbackfromagivenspotakindoftoylanceplantedintheground。Then,havingsuccessfullypassedthetripleordealsoffasting,stabbing,andrunningagainsttime,andwithoutfoodandwater,thecandidate,undertheeyesofhisadmiringfather,isatlengthreceivedintotheranksofthebravestwarriors,andisallowedtotakeawife。Atthecloseoftheceremony,theflowofbloodfromthecandidate”sreallyseriousflesh-woundsisstoppedbymeansofspiders”webs,powderedcharcoal,anddryclaypowder。
Withregardtothegirls,Iamafraidtheyreceivedbutscantconsideration。
Judgedbyourstandard,thewomenwerefarfromhandsome。Theyhadverybrighteyes,broad,flatnoses,low,narrowforeheads,andheavychins。Buttherearecomelyexceptions。Andyetatbigcorroboreesontheoccasionofamarriage,themenalwayschantedpraisestothevirtueandbeautyofthebride!
Thegirlwhopossessedanexceptionallylargeandflatnosewasconsideredagreatbeauty。Talkingaboutnoses,itwastomearemarkablefact,thattheblacksconsiderawarriorwithabignoseandlargedistendednostrilsamanpossessedofgreatstayingpower。Foronething,theyconsiderhisbreathingapparatusexceptionallyperfect。
Asageneralrule(thereareexceptionsinthecaseofavery“beautiful“woman),whenawomandiessheisnotevenburied;shesimplylieswhereshehasfallendead,andthecampmovesontoanotherplaceandneverreturnstotheunholyspot。Anditmaybementionedherethattheblacksneveralludetoadeadpersonbyname,astheyhaveagreathorrorofdepartedspirits。Andsochildishandsuspiciousarethey,thattheysometimesevencutoffthefeetofadeadmantopreventhisrunningaboutandfrighteningthematinconvenientmoments。Iusedtoplayupontheirfears,goingoutintothebushafterdark,andpretendingtocommunewiththeevilspirits。Thevoiceoftheselatterwasproducedbymeansofreedwhistles。OnceImademyselfahuge,hideousmaskoutofakangarooskin,withholesslitinitforthenose,mouth,andeyes。
Iwoulddonthisstrangegarbintheevenings,andprowlaboutthevicinityofthecamp,holdingblazingtorchesbehindthemask,andemittingstrangenoises——sometimeshowlinglikeawolfandatothersshoutingaloudinmynaturalvoice。OntheseoccasionstheblacksthoughtIwasinmynaturalelementasaspirit。ButtheyneverventuredtofollowmeorattemptedtosatisfythemselvesthatIwasnotfoolingthemallthewhile。Yamba,ofcourse,knewthejoke,andasarulehelpedmetodressforthefarce,butshetookgoodcarenevertotellanyonethesecret。Nodoubthadtheblackseverlearnedthatitwasalldoneforeffectonmypart,theresultwouldhavebeenveryserious;butIknewIwasprettysecurebecauseoftheabnormalsuperstitionprevalentamongthem。
Thewomen,asIhavebeforehinted,aretreatedinahorriblycruelmanner,judgedfromourstandpoint;butinrealitytheyknownotwhatcrueltyis,becausetheyareabsolutelyignorantofkindness。
Theyarethebeastsofburden,tobefelledtotheearthwithabludgeonwhentheyerrinsometrivialrespect;andwhencampismovedeachwomancarriesvirtuallythewholehouseholdandtheentireworldlybelongingsofthefamily。Thusitisacommonsighttoseeawomancarryingaloadconsistingofoneortwochildrenandaquantityofmiscellaneousimplements,suchasheavygrindstones,stonehatchets,sewing-bones,yam-sticks,&c。Duringtheshiftingofthecampthebravesthemselvesstalkalongpracticallyunencumbered,saveonlyfortheirelaborateshield,threespears(nevermore),andastonetomahawkstuckintheirbeltofwovenopossumhair。Themendonotsmoke,knowingnothingoftobacco,buttheirprincipalrecreationandrelaxationfromtheincessanthuntingconsistsinthemakingoftheirwarweapons,whichisaveryimportantpartoftheirdailylife。Theywillevenfellawholetree,ashasalreadybeenexplained,tomakeasinglespearshaft。Astotheshield,theelaboratecarvinguponitcorrespondscloselywiththeprowessoftheowner;andthemorelaurelshegains,themoreintricateandelaboratebecomesthecarvingonhisshield。Honourpreventsunduepretence。
Butwehavewanderedawayfromtheconsiderationofthegirl-
children。Thebabygirlsplaywiththeirbrothersandparticipateintheirfightsuntiltheyareperhapstenyearsofage。Theyarethenexpectedtoaccompanytheirmothersonthedailyexcursionsinsearchofroots。Whenthelittlegirlsarefirsttakenoutbytheirmotherstheyareinstructedintheuseoftheyam-stick,withwhichtherootsaredugupoutoftheearth。Thestickusedbythewomenisgenerallythreefeetorfourfeetlong,butthegirlnovicesuseashortoneaboutfifteeninchesinlength。Eachwoman,asIhavesaidelsewhere,isalsoprovidedwithareedbasketornet,inwhichtoholdtheroots,thisbeingusuallywovenoutofstringsofpreparedbark;or,failingthat,nativeflaxorpalmstraw。
Buttheunfortunatewifeoccasionallymakestheacquaintanceoftheheavyyam-stickinaveryunpleasant,nottosayserious,manner。
Ofcourse,therearedomesticrows。Wewillsupposethatthehusbandhaslatelypaidagreatamountofattentiontooneofhisyoungerwives——acircumstancewhichnaturallygivesgreatoffencetooneoftheolderwomen。Thiswife,whenshehasanopportunityandisalonewithherhusband,commencestosingorchantaplaint——
alittlethingofquiteherowncomposing。
Intothissongsheweavesalltheabusewhichlongexperiencetellsherwilllashherhusbanduptoboiling-point。Thelaterstanzascomplainthatthesingerhasbeentakenfromherownhomeamonganationofrealwarriorstoliveamongagangofskulkingcowards,whosehearts,livers,andothervitalorgansarenotatalluptothestandardofherpeople。
TheepithetsarecarefullyarrangedupascaleuntiltheyreachBANDY-LEGGED——anutterlyunpardonableinsult。Butthereis,beyondthis,oneotherunpublishableremark,whichcausesthehusbandtotakeuptheyam-stickandfellthesingerwithonetremendousblow,whichisfrequentlysoseriousastodisableherformanydays。
Theotherwomenatonceseetotheirsister,whohasincurredthewrathofherlord,andrubherwoundswithweirdmedicaments。Thewholeshockingbusinessisregardedasquiteanordinaryaffair;
andafterthesuffererisabletogetaboutagainshebearsherhusbandnottheslightestill-feeling。Yousee,shehashadhersayandpaidforit。
Thegirls,astheygrowup,aretaughttocookaccordingtothenativefashion,andarealsorequiredtobuildovensintheearthorsand;makethefires,build“break-winds,“andgenerallyhelptheirmothersinpreparingmeals。Whenatlengththemealiscooked,themannerofeatingitisverypeculiar。Firstofall,thewomenretireintothebackground。Thelordandmastergoesandpicksoutthetit-bitsforhimself,andthensitsdowntoeatthemoffasmallsheetofbark。Moreoften,however,hesimplytearsthemeatinpieceswithhishands。Duringhismeal,thewivesandchildrenarecollectedbehindatarespectfuldistance,awaitingtheirownshare。Then,asthewarrioreats,heliterallyhurlscertainoddmentsoverhisshoulder,whicharepromptlypounceduponbythewivesandchildreninwaiting。Itsometimeshappens,however,thatafavouritechild——aboyinvariably,neveragirl(itisthegirlswhoareeatenbytheparentswheneverthereareanysuperfluouschildrentobegotridof)——willapproachhisfatherandbefedwithchoicemorselsfromthegreatman”s“plate。”
Eachtribehasitsownparticularcountryoverwhichitroamsatpleasure,andtheboundariesaredefinedbytrees,hillocks,mountains,rocks,creeks,andwater-holes。Andfromthesenaturalfeaturesthetribesoccasionallygettheirnames。Outsidethetribalboundary——whichofteninclosesavastarea——theblacksnevergo,exceptonafriendlyvisittoaneighbouringcamp。Poachingisoneofthethingspunishablewithdeath,andevenifanywomaniscaughthuntingforfoodinanothercountrysheisseizedandpunished。IwilltellyoulateronhowevenYamba“putherfoot“
initinthisway。
Theblacksaremarvellouslycleverattrackingamanbyhisfootprints,andapoacherfromaneighbouringtribeneverescapestheirvigilance,eventhoughhesucceedsinreturningtohisownpeoplewithoutbeingactuallycaptured。Soassiduouslydotheseblacksstudythefootprintsofpeopletheyknowandarefriendlywith,thattheycantellatoncewhetherthetrespasserisanenemyornot;andifitbeastranger,apunitiveexpeditionisatonceorganisedagainsthistribe。
GraduallyIcametothinkthateachman”strackmusthaveanindividualityaboutitquiteasremarkableasthefinger-printsinvestigatedbyGaltonandBertillon。Theblackscouldeventellaman”snameandmanyotherthingsabouthim,solelyfromhistracks——
how,itisofcourseimpossibleformetosay。Ihaveoftenknownmyblackstofollowaman”strackOVERHARDROCKS,whereevenadisturbedleafprovedaninfallibleclue,yieldingaperfectlymiraculousamountofinformation。Theywillknowwhetheraleafhasbeenturnedoverbythewindorbyhumanagency!
Buttocontinuemynarrative。YambawasveryanxiousthatIshouldstayandmakemyhomeamongherpeople,andso,withtheassistanceofotherwomen,shebuiltmeasubstantialbeehive-shapedhut,fullytwentyfeetindiameterandtenfeethigh。ShepointedouttomeearnestlythatIhadeverythingIcouldpossiblywishfor,andthatImightbeaverygreatmanindeedinthecountryifonlyIwouldtakeaprominentpartintheaffairsofthetribe。Shealsomentionedthatsogreatwasmyprowessandprestige,thatifI
wishedImighttakeuntomyselfawholearmyofwives!——thenumberofwivesbeingthesoletokenofgreatnessamongthesepeople。Youseetheyhadtobefed,andthatimpliedmanygreatattributesofskillandstrength。Nevertheless,Ipinedforcivilisation,andneverletadaygobywithoutscanningthebayandtheopenseaforapassingsail。Thenativestoldmetheyhadseenshipsatvarioustimes,andthatattemptshadevenbeenmadetoreachthemincatamarans,butwithoutsuccess,sofaroutatseawerethevesselspassing。
Gradually,aboutninemonthsaftermystrangereturntomyCambridgeGulfhome,therecameatimewhenlifebecamesomonotonousthatIfeltIMUSThaveachangeofsomesort,orelsegomad。Iwasontheverybestoftermswithallmyblacks,buttheirmodeoflivingwasrepulsivetome。Ibegantoloathethefood,andthehorriblecrueltytothewomenfrequentlysickenedme。
WheneverIsawoneofthesepoorpatientcreaturesfelled,bleeding,totheearth,Ifeltmyselfbeingworkedupintoastateofdangerousnervousexcitement,andIlongedtochallengethebrutalassailantasamurderousenemy。Eachtime,however,I
sternlycompelledmyselftorestrainmyfeelings。AtlengththespiritofunrestgrewsostrongthatIdeterminedtotryashorttripinlandinadirectionIhadneverhithertoattempted。I
intendedtocrossthebigbayinmydug-out,roundCapeLondonderry,andthengosouthamongthebeautifulislandsdownpastAdmiraltyGulf,whichIhadpreviouslyexploredduringmyresidenceontheCape,andwhereIhadfoundfoodandwaterabundant;numerouscaves,withmuralpaintings;quietseas,andgorgeousvegetation。Yambawillinglyconsentedtoaccompanyme,andonedayIsetoffontheseaoncemore,myfaithfulwifebymyside,carryinghernetfullofoddsandends,andIwithmybowandarrows,tomahawk,andstiletto;thetwolattercarriedinmybelt。
Ihopedtocomeacrossashipdownamongtheislands,formynativestoldmethatseveralhadpassedwhileIwasaway。
Atlengthwestartedoffinourdug-out,theseabeingperfectlycalm——moreparticularlyintheearlymorning,whenthetidewasgenerallywithus。Afterseveraldays”paddlingwegotintoanarrowpassagebetweenalongelevatedislandandthemain,andfromtherefoundourwayintoaninlet,attheheadofwhichappearedmassesofwildandruggedrocks。Theserockswere,inmanyplaces,decoratedwithanumberofcrudebutstrikingmuralpaintings,whichwereprotectedfromtheweather。ThedrawingsI
foundrepresentedmenchiefly。Myowncontributionsconsistedoflife-sizesketchesofmywife,myself,andBruno。Iemphasisedmylonghair,andalsoreproducedmybowandarrow。Thisqueer“artgallery“waswelllighted,andtherocksmooth。Wefoundthespotaverysuitableoneforcamping;infact,therewereindicationsonallsidesthattheplacewasfrequentlyusedbythenativesasacamping-ground。Aconsiderablequantityofbarklaystrewnaboutthegroundinsheets,whichmaterialmywifetoldmewasusedbythenativesasbedding。ThiswasthefirsttimeIhadknowntheblack-fellowstouseanymaterialinthisway。Ialsocameacrosstracesofafeast——suchasemptyoystershellsinverylargeheaps,bonesofanimals,&c。Thewatersoftheinletwereexceedinglywellstockedwithfish;andhereIsawlargecrayfishforthefirsttime。Icaughtandroastedsome,andfoundthemverygoodeating。
ThisinletmightpossiblybeinthevicinityofMontagueSound,alittletothesouthofAdmiraltyGulf。
Westayedacoupleofdaysinthisbeautifulspot,andthenpusheddownsouthagain,alwayskeepingcloseundershelteroftheislandsonaccountofourfrailcraft。Theseasthroughwhichwepaddledwerestuddedwithinnumerableislands,somerockyandbarren,otherscoveredwithmagnificentfoliageandgrass。Welandedonseveralofthese,andonone——itmighthavebeenBiggesIsland——I
discoveredahighcairnormoundofstoneserectedonthemostprominentpoint。Yambatoldmethatthisstructurewasnottheworkofanative。Sheexplainedthatthestoneswerelaidtooregularly。AcloserexaminationconvincedmethatthecairnhadbeenbuiltbysomeEuropean——possiblyacastaway——andthatatonetimeithadprobablybeensurmountedbyaflag-staffasasignaltopassingships。Foodwasveryplentifulonthisisland,rootsandyamsbeingobtainableingreatabundance。Rockwallabieswerealsoplentiful。Afterleavingthisislandwecontinuedourjourneysouth,paddlingonlyduringtheday,andalwayswiththetide,andspendingthenightonland。Bytheway,whilstamongtheislands,Icameacross,atvarioustimes,manysadsignsofcivilisation,intheformofalowermastofaship,andadeck-house,awicker-
basket,emptybrandycases,andotherflotsamandjetsam,which,I
supposed,hadcomefromvariouswrecks。AfterhavingbeenabsentfrommyhomeinCambridgeGulf,twoorthreemonths,Ifoundmyselfinalargebay,whichInowknowtobeKing”sSound。Ihadcomeacrossmanytribesofnativesonmywaydown。SomeImetwereontheislandsonwhichwelanded,andothersonthemainland。Mostoftheseblack-fellowsknewmebothpersonallyandbyrepute,manyhavingbeenpresentatthegreatwhalefeast。ThenativesatKing”sSoundrecognisedme,andgavemeaheartyinvitationtostaywiththemattheircamp。ThisIconsentedtodo,andmyfriendsthenpromisedtosetalltheothertribesalongthecoastonthelook-outforpassingvessels,sothatImightimmediatelybeinformedbysmoke-signalswhenonewasinsight。Notlongafterthiscameanitemofnewswhichthrilledmethroughandthrough。
Oneofthechiefstoldmequitecasuallythatatanothertribe,somedays”journeyaway,thechiefhadTWOWHITEWIVES。Theyhad,hewentontoexplain,askinandhairexactlylikemyown;butinspiteofeventhisassurance,afterthefirstshockofamazementI
feltconfidentthatthecaptiveswereMalays。Thenewsoftheirpresenceamongthetribeinquestionwasawell-knownfactallalongthecoastofKing”sSound。MyinformanthadneveractuallySEENthewhitewomen,buthewasabsolutelycertainoftheirexistence。Headdedthatthecaptiveshadbeenseizedafterafightwithsomewhitemen,whohadcometothatcoastina“bigcatamaran。”However,Idecidedtogoandseeformyselfwhatmannerofwomentheywere。ThecanoewasbeachedwellabovethereachofthetidesatConeBay,andthen,accompaniedbyYambaonly,Isetoffoverlandonmyquest。TheregionoftheencampmenttowardswhichInowdirectedmystepsliesbetweentheLennardRiverandtheFitzroy。Theexactspot,asnearasIcanfixitonthechart,isaplacecalledDerby,attheheadofKing”sSound。
Asweadvancedthecountrybecameveryruggedandbroken,withnumerouscreeksintersectingitineverydirection。Fartheron,however,itdevelopedintoarich,low-lying,park-likeregion,withwaterinabundance。Tothenorth-westappearedelevatedranges。Icameacrossmanyfinespecimensofthebottletree。TheblacksencampedatDerbywereawareofmycomingvisit,havinghadthenewsforwardedtothembymeansoftheuniversalsmoke-signals。