Thetravellersconsultedtheresidentsintheirpurchasesofcopiesoftheoldmasters，fortherewerefashionsintheseluxuriesasineverythingelse。Therewasarunatthattimeonthe\"MadonnaintheChair；\"and\"BeatriceCenci\"waslongprimefavorite。
Thousandsofthelatterleeringandwinkingoverhereverlastingshoulder，weresolemnlysenthomeeachyear。Nooneeverdreamedofbuyinganoriginalpainting!Thetouristsalsodevelopedatasteforlargemarblestatues，\"Nydia，theBlindGirlofPompeii\"
(peoplereadBulwer，ByronandtheBiblethen)beinginsuchdemandthatIknewoneblockinlowerFifthAvenuethatpossessedsevenblindNydias，alllife-size，inwhitemarble，-aformofdecorationaboutaswelladaptedtothosescantyfrontparlorsasasteamengineoracarriageandpairwouldhavebeen。IfearBulwer\'sheroineisatadiscountnow，andoftenwonderasIseethoseoldresidencesturningintoshops，whathasbecomeofthesevenwhiteelephantsandalltheirbrothersandsistersthatourinnocentparentsbroughtsoproudlybackfromItaly!Ihavesucceededinlocatingtwostatuesevidentlyimportedatthattime。
Theygracethebackstepsofarathershabbyvillainthecountry，-DemosthenesandCicero，largerthanlife，dreary，funerealmemorialsofthefolliesofourfathers。
Thesimpledayswehavebeenspeakingofdidnot，however，outlastthecirclethatinauguratedthem。About1867afewrichNewYorkersbegan\"tryingtoknowtheItalians\"andgoaboutwiththem。
Onefamily，\"uptosnuff\"inmoresensesthanone，marriedtheirdaughtertothescionofaprincelyhouse，andimmediatelyalargenumberofhercompatriotswerebittenwiththemadnessofgoingintoItaliansociety。
In1870，RomebecamethecapitalofunitedItaly。Thecourtremovedthere。The\"improvements\"began。Wholequarterswereremodelled，andthedearoldRomeofotherdays，theRomeofHawthorneandMadamedeStael，wassweptaway。WiththisnewstateofthingscameanumberofAmerico-Italianmarriagesmoreorlesssuccessful；andanythinglikeanAmericansociety，properlyso-
called，disappeared。To-dayfamiliesofourcompatriotspassingthewintermonthsinRomeareeithertouristswholiveinhotels，andseesights，orgo(asfarastheycan)intoItaliansociety。
TheQueenofItaly，whospeaksexcellentEnglish，developedaPENCHANTforAmericans，andhasattachedseveralwhomarriedItalianstoherpersonindifferentcourtcapacities；indeed，theold\"Black\"society，whohaveremainedtruetothePope，whentheywishtoridiculethenew\"White\"orroyalcircle，callitthe\"Americancourt!\"Thefeelingisbitterstillbetweenthe\"Blacks\"
and\"Whites，\"andanAmericangirlwhomarriesintooneofthesecirclesmustmakeuphermindtoseenothingoffriendsorrelativesintheoppositionranks。Itissaidthatanamalgamationisbeingbroughtabout，butitisslowwork；agenerationwillhavetodieoutbeforemuchrealminglingofthetwocourtswilltakeplace。Asboththesecirclesarepoor，verylittleentertainmentgoeson。Oneseesalittlelifeinthediplomaticworld，andtheKingandQueengiveaballortwoduringthewinter，butsincetherepeateddefeatsoftheItalianarmsinAfrica，andtheheavyfinancialdifficulties(thingsthesesovereignstakeveryseriouslytoheart)，therehasnotbeenmuch\"go\"inthecourtentertainments。
TheyoungsethopegreatthingsofthenewPrincessofNaples，thebrideoftheheir-apparent，aladywhoiscreditedwithbeingfulloffunandlife；itisfondlyimaginedthatshewillsettheballrollingagain。Bythebye，herfirstlady-in-waiting，theyoungDuchessdelMonteofNaples，wasanAmericangirl，andaveryprettyone，too。SheenjoyedforsometimetheenviabledistinctionofbeingtheyoungestandhandsomestduchessinEurope，untilMissVanderbiltmarriedMarlboroughandtooktherecordfromher。ThePrinceandPrincessofNaplesliveattheirNeapolitancapital，andwillnotdomuchtohelpthingsinRome。Besideswhichheisverydelicateandpassesfornotbeinganytoofondoftheworld。
Whatmakesthingsworseisthatthegreatnoblesaremostly\"landpoor，\"andeventhericheronesburnedtheirfingersinthecrazeforspeculationthatturnedallRomeupsidedownintheyearsfollowing1870andItalianunity，whentheynaivelyimaginedtheirnewcapitalwastobecomeagainafterseventeencenturiesthemetropolisoftheworld。Wholequartersofnewhouseswererunupforapopulationthatfailedtoappear；thesehousesnowstandemptyandarefastgoingtoruin。Sothatlittleinthewayofentertainingistobeexpectedfromthebankrupts。Theyareagenialrace，theseItaliannobles，andwelcomerichstrangersandmarrythemwithmuchenthusiasm-justashadetoomuch，perhaps-
thegirlcountingforsolittleandherDOTforsomuchinthematrimonialscale。Itisonlynecessarytokeepopenhousetohavethepickoftheyoungeronesasyourguests。TheywillcometoentertainmentsatAmericanhousesandbringalltheirrelations，anddance，anddine，andflirtwithgreatgoodhumorandpersistency；butifthereisnotagoodsolidfortuneinthebackground，inthebestofsecurities，theprettiestAmericansmilesnevertemptthembeyondflirtation；theseasonover，theydisappearupintotheirmountainvillastowaitforanewimportationfromtheStates。
InRome，aswellasintheotherItaliancities，thereare，ofcourse，stilltobefoundAmericansinsomenumbers(whereontheContinentwillyounotfindthem？)，livingquietlyforstudyoreconomy。Buttheyarenotnumerousorunitedenoughtoformasociety；andareapttobeinvolvedinbitterstrifeamongthemselves。
Why，youask，shouldAmericansquarrelamongthemselves？
SomeyearsagoIwaspassingthesummermonthsontheRhineatatinyGermanwatering-place，principallyfrequentedbyEnglish，whowerealllivingtogetheringreatpeaceandharmony，untilonefatalday，whenanEarlappeared。HewasapoorIrishEarl，verysimpleandunoffending，buthebroughtwarintothattown，heart-
burnings，envy，andbackbiting。TheEnglishcolonyatoncedivideditselfintotwocamps，thosewhoknewtheEarlandthosewhodidnot。Andpeacefledfromourlittlesociety。YouwillfindineveryforeigncapitalamongtheresidentAmericans，justsuchastateofaffairsasconvulsedthatGermanspa。Thenative\"swells\"
havecometobetheappleofdiscordthatdividesourgoodpeopleamongthemselves。Thosewhohavebeensuccessfulinknowingtheforeignersavoidtheircompatriotsandlivewiththeirnewfriends，whiletheothergroupwho，fromlaziness，disinclination，orprinciple(？)haveremainedtruetotheirAmericancircle，cannotresistcallingtheotherssnobs，andlaughing(abitenviously，perhaps)attheirupwardstruggles。
ItisthesameinFlorence。ThelittletherewasleftofanAmericansocietywenttopiecesonthatrock。Ourparentsfortyyearsagoseemtometohavebeenmuchmoreself-respectingandsensible。TheyknewperfectlywellthattherewasnothingincommonbetweenthemselvesandtheItaliannobility，andthatthosegoodpeoplewerenotgoingtoputthemselvesouttomaketheacquaintanceofalotofstrangers，mostlyofanotherreligion，unlessitwastobemateriallytotheiradvantage。Sotheyleftthemquietlyalone。Idonotpretendtojudgeanyone\'smotives，butconfessIcannothelpregardingwithsuspicionaforeignerwholeaveshisowncircletominglewithstrangers。Itresemblestoocloselytheamiabilitiesofthewolfforthelamb，orthesuddenpolitenessofaschool-boytoalittlegirlwhohasreceivedaboxofcandies。
CHAPTER37-TheNewportofthePastFEWofthe\"carriageladiesandgentlemen\"whodisportthemselvesinNewportduringthesummermonths，yachtinganddancingthroughtheshortseason，thenflittingawaytofreshfieldsandpasturesnew，realizethattheirdaintilyshodfeethavebeentreadinghistoricground，orcaretocastathoughtbacktothepast。Oddlyenough，tothemajorityofpeoplethepastisavolumerarelyopened。Notthatitboresthemtoreadit，butbecausethey，likechildren，wantsomeonetoturnoveritsyellowleavesandpointoutthepicturestothem。FewofthehumanmotesthatdanceintheraysoftheafternoonsunastheyslantacrossthelittlePark，thinkofthefablewhichassertsthatasea-wornbandofadventurousmen，centuriesbeforetheCabotsortheGenoesediscovererthoughtofcrossingtheAtlantic，hadpushedbravelyoutoveruntriedseasandlandedonthisrockycoast。Yetoneapparentevidenceoftheirstaytemptsourthoughtsbacktothetimeswhenitissaidtohavebeenbuiltasabowerforaking\'sdaughter。
Longfellow，intheswingingverseofhis\"SkeletoninArmor，\"
breathingoftheseaandtheNorseman\'sfatallove，hasthrownsuchaglamourofpoetryaroundthetower，thatonewouldfainbelieveallherelates。ThehardyNorsemen，iftheyevercamehere，succumbedintheirstrugglewiththenativetribes，or，discouragedbydeathandhardships，sailedaway，leavingthecloudsofobliviontocloseagaindarklyaroundthiscontinent，andthefogofdiscussiontocirclearoundthe\"OldMill。\"
Thelittlesettlementofanotherrace，speakinganothertongue，thatcenturieslatersprangupintheshadowofthetower，quicklygrewintoabusyandprosperouscity，which，likeNewYork，itsrival，wascapturedandheldbytheEnglish。Towalknowthroughsomeofitsquaint，narrowstreetsistostepbackintoRevolutionarydays。HardlyahousehaschangedsincethetimewhentheredcoatsoftheBritishofficersbrightenedtheprimperspectives，andturnedloyalyoungheadsastheypassed。
AtthecornerofSpringandPelhamStreets，stillstandstheresidenceofGeneralPrescott，whowascarriedawayprisonerbyhisopponents，theyhavingroweddowninwhale-boatsfromProvidencefortheattack。Rochambeau，ourFrenchally，lodgedlowerdowninMaryStreet。InthetowerofTrinity，onecanreadtheepitaphoftheunfortunateChevalierdeTernay，commanderoftheseaforces，whosebodyliesnearby。Manyyearslaterhisrelative，theDucdeNoailles，whenMinistertothiscountry，hadthissimpletabletrepairedandmadeavisittothespot。
AlongperiodofprosperityfollowedtheRevolution，duringwhichNewportgrewandflourished。OurpiousandGod-fearing\"forbears，\"
havingsecuredpersonalandreligiousliberty，proceededtoinaugurateamostsuccessfulandremunerativetradeinrumandslaves。Itwasatriangulartransactionandyieldedathree-foldprofit。Thesimplepopulationofthatday，numberinglessthantenthousandsouls，possessedtwentydistilleries；findingitaphysicalimpossibilitytodrinkALLtherum，theyconceivedthehappythoughtofsendingthesurplusacrosstothecoastofAfrica，whereitappearstohavebeenmuchappreciatedbythenativechiefs，whoeagerlyexchangedthepickoftheirloyalsubjectsforthatliquid。ThesepoorbrutesweretakentotheWestIndiesandexchangedforsugar，ladenwithwhich，thevesselsreturnedtoNewport。
Havingintroducedtheduskychieftainstothecharmsofdeliriumtremensandtheirsubjectstolife-longslavery，onecanalmostseethesepiousdeaconsproceedingtochurchtoofferupthanksforthereturnoftheirsuccessfulvessels。Alas!even\"thebestlaidschemesofmiceandmen\"cometoanend。TheWarof1812，theopeningoftheErieCanalandsundryrailwaysstruckablowatNewportcommerce，fromwhichitneverrecovered。Thecitysankintooblivion，andforoverthirtyyearsnotahousewasbuiltthere。
Itwasnotuntilnear1840thattheMiddletonsandIzzardsandotherwealthyandaristocraticSouthernfamiliesweretemptedtoNewportbytheclimateandthefacilitiesitofferedforbathing，shootingandboating。Aboarding-houseortwosufficedforthemodestwantsofthenew-comers，firstamongwhichstoodtheAquidneck，presidedoverbykindMrs。Murray。Itwasnotuntilsomeyearslater，whenNewYorkandBostonfamiliesbegantoappreciatetheplace，thatthefirsthotelswerebuilt，-theAtlanticonthesquarefacingtheoldmill，theBellevueandFillmoreonCatherineStreet，andfinallytheoriginalOceanHouse，destroyedbyfirein1845andrebuiltasweseeitto-day。Thecroakersoftheepochconsidereditmuchtoofaroutoftowntobesuccessful，foratitsdoortheopenfieldsbegan，agatethereseparatingthetownfromthecountryacrosswhichastraggling，half-maderoad，closedbyinnumerablegates，ledalongthecliffsandoutacrosswhatisnowtheOceanDrive。Theprincipalroadsatthattimeledinland；anyonewishingtodriveseawardhadtodescendeverytwoorthreeminutestoopenagate。Theyouthofthedaydiscoveredasourceofincomeinopeningandclosingtheseforpennies。
Fashionhaddecreedthatthecorrecthourfordancingwas11A。M。，andMATINEESDANSANTESwereregularlygivenatthehotels，ourgrandmothersappearinginDECOLLETEmuslinfrocksadornedwithbroadsashes，anddisportingthemselvesgaylyuntilthedinnerhour。Low-neckdressesweretherule，notonlyfortheseinformalentertainments，butasevery-daywearforyounggirls，-anoldladyonlytheotherdaytellingmeshehadneverworna\"high-body\"
untilafterhermarriage。Twoo\'clockfoundallthebeautiesandbeauxdining。Howincredulouslytheywouldhavelaughedifanyonehadprophesiedthattheirgrandchildrenwouldprefereightforty-
fiveasadinnerhour!
TheopeningofBellevueAvenuemarkedanotherepochinthehistoryofNewport。AboutthattimeGovernorLawrenceboughtthewholeofOchrePointfarmforfourteenthousanddollars，andMr。deRhambuiltonthenewlyopenedroadthefirst\"cottage，\"whichstandsto-daymodestlybackfromtheavenueoppositePerryStreet。Ifhouseshavesouls，asHawthorneaverred，andcanrememberandcompare，whatcuriousthoughtsmustpassthroughtheoakenbrainofthissimpleconstructionasitseesitsmarbleneighborsrearingtheirvastfacadesamongtrees。Thetrees，too，areaninnovation，forwhenthedeRhamcottagewasbuiltandMrs。ClevelandopenedhernewhouseattheextremeendofRoughPoint(thesecondsummerresidenceintheplace)itisdoubtfulifasingletreebroketherockymonotonyofthelandscapefromtheOceanHousetoBateman\'sPoint。
GovernorLawrence，havingsoldoneacreofhisOchrePointfarmtoMr。Pendletonforthepricehehimselfhadpaidforthewhole，proceededtobuildastonewallbetweenthetwopropertiesdowntothewater\'sedge。ThepopulationofNewporthadbeenaccustomedtotaketheirSundayairingsandmoonlightramblesalong\"thecliffs，\"
andviewedthisobstructionoftheirfavoritewalkwithdismay。Sostrongwastheirfeelingthatwhenthewallwascompletedtheyoungmenofthetownrepairedthereinthenightandtoreitdown。Itwasrebuilt，themortarbeingmixedwithbrokenglass。Thisinfuriatedthepeopletosuchanextentthatthewholepopulace，inbroaddaylight，accompaniedbythesummervisitors，destroyedthewallandthrewthematerialsintothesea。Lawrence，bentonmaintainingwhatheconsideredhisrights，calledthelawtohisaid。Itwasthendiscoveredthatanimmemorialriverainrightgavethefishermenandthepublicgenerally，accesstotheshoreforfishing，andalsotocollectseaweed，-arightofwaythatnoonecouldobstruct。
Thiswasthebeginningofthelongstrugglebetweenthecliff-
dwellersandthetownspeople；eachnewproperty-owner，disgustedattheideathatalltheworldcanstrollatwillacrosshiswell-keptlawns，hasinturntriedhishandatsuppressingthenowfamous\"walk。\"Notonlydothepublicclaimthelibertytowalkthere，butalsotherighttocrossanypropertytogettotheshore。AtthismomentthecityfathersandthecommitteeofthenewbuildingsatBailey\'sBeacharewranglingasgaylyasinGovernorLawrence\'sdayoverabitofwalllatelyconstructedacrosstheendofBellevueAvenue。Anewexpedienthasbeenhituponbysomeofthewould-beexclusiveownersofthecliffs；theyhaveloweredthe\"walk\"outofsight，thusinsuringtheirownprivacyandinnowayinterferingwiththerightsofthepublic。
AmongthegentlemenwhosettledinNewportaboutGovernorLawrence\'stimewasLordBaltimore(Mr。Calvert，hepreferredtocallhimself)，whoremainedthereuntilhisdeath。HewasshyofreferringtohisEnglishpeerage，butwouldwillinglytalkofhisdescentthroughhismotherfromPeterPaulRubens，fromwhomhadcomedowntohimachateauinHollandandseveralsplendidpaintings。Thelatterhungintheparlorofthemodestlittledwelling，whereIwastakentoseethemandtheirownermanyyearsago。Myintroduceronthisoccasionwasherselfaladyofnoordinarybirth，beingthedaughterofStuart，ourgreatestportraitpainter。Ihavepassedmanyquiethoursinthequaintstudio(thesameherfatherhadused)，hearingherprattle-asshelovedtodoifshefoundasympatheticlistener-ofherfather，ofWashingtonandhispompousways，andthemanycelebritieswhohadinturnposedbefore
Stuart\'seasel。Shehadbeenherfather\'scompanionandaid，presentatthesittings，preparinghisbrushesandcolors，andpaintinginbackgroundsandaccessories；andwouldwillinglyshowhispaletteandexplainhismethodsandtheoriesofcolor，hispredilectionforscrumblingshadowsthinlyinblackandthenpaintingboldlyinwithbodycolor。Herlessonshadnotprofitedmuchtothegentle，kindlyoldlady，fortheproductionsofherownbrushwerefarfromresemblinghergreatparent\'swork。She，however，paintedcheerfullyontolife\'sclose，surroundedbyhermanyfriends，foremostamongwhomwasCharlotteCushman，whoalsopassedthelastyearsofherlifeinNewport。MissStuartwasovereightywhenIlastsawher，stillfullofspiritandvigor，beginningtheportraitofafamousbeautyofthatday，sincethewifeandmotherofdukes。
MissStuart\'sdeathseemstocloseoneofthechaptersinthehistoryofthiscity，andtobreakthelastconnectinglinkwithitspast。Theworldmovessoquicklythatthesimpledaysandmodestamusementsofourfathersandgrandfathershavealreadyrecededintomistyremoteness。Welookattheirportraitsandwondervaguelyattheirgracelesscostumes。Weknowtheytrodthesesamestreets，andlaughedandflirtedandmarriedaswearedoingto-day，buttheyseemtousstrangelyfaraway，likeinhabitantsofanothersphere!
Itishumiliatingtothinkhowsoonwe，too，shallhavebecometheancestorsofanewandcarelessgeneration；freshfaceswillreplaceourfadedones，youngvoiceswilllaughastheylookatourportraitshangingindarkcorners，wonderingwhowewere，and(criticisingtheapparelwethinksoartisticandappropriate)howwecouldeverhavemadesuchguysofourselves。
CHAPTER38-AConquestofEuropeTHEmostimportanteventinmodernhistoryisthediscoveryofEuropebytheAmericans。Beforeit，thepeoplesoftheOldWorldlivedhappyandcontentedintheirowncountries，practisingthepatriarchalvirtueshandeddowntothemfromgenerationsofforebears，ignoringalikethevicesandbenefitsofmoderncivilization，asunderstoodonthissideoftheAtlantic。Thesimple-mindedEuropeansremainedathome，satisfiedwiththerankinlifewheretheyhadbeenborn，andinnocentofthewaysofthenewworld。
Thesepeopleswere，onthewhole，notsomuchtobepitied，fortheyhadmanypleasingcraftsandartsunknowntotheinvaders，whichhadenabledthemtodecoratetheircapitalswithtasteinarudeway；nothingreallygreatliketheloftybuildingsandelevatedrailwaystructures，executedinAmericancities，butinterestingasshowingwhataningeniousrace，deprivedofthesecretsofmodernscience，couldaccomplish。
Themoreaestheticofthenewcomersevenaffectedtoadmiretheantiquatedplacesofworshipandresidencestheyvisitedabroad，pointingouttotheircompatriotsthatinmanycasesmarble，bronzeandotherold-fashionedmaterialshadbeensocleverlytreatedastolookalmostlikethesuperiorcast-ironemployedathome，andthatsomeoftheoldpaintings，preservedwithvenerationinthemuseums，hadnearlythebrilliancyofmodernchromos。Astheirauthorshad，however，neglectedtouseaprocesslendingitselftorapidreproduction，theywereofnopracticalvalue。Inotherways，thecontinentalraces，whendiscovered，weresadlybehindthetimes。Inbusiness，theyignoredtheuseof\"corners，\"thatbackboneofAmericantrade，andtheirideasofadvertisingwerebutlittleinadvanceofthoseknownamongtheancientGreeks。
ThediscoveryofEuropebytheAmericanswasmadeabout1850，atwhichdatethefirstbandsofadventurerscrossedtheseasinsearchofamusement。ThereportsthesepioneersbroughtbackoftheNAIVETE，politeness，andgullibilityofthenatives，andthecheapnessofexistenceintheircities，causedageneralexodusfromthewesterntotheeasternhemisphere。MostoftheAmericanswhohaduseduptheircreditathomeandthosewhoseincomeswereinsufficientfortheirwants，immediatelymigratedtothesehappyhuntinggrounds，wherelifewasinexpensiveandcreditunlimited。
Thefirstarrivalsenjoyedforsometwentyyearsuniqueopportunities。TheywereabletoliveinsplendorforapittancethatwouldbarelyhavekepttheminnecessariesontheirownsideoftheAtlantic，andtopickupvaluablespecimensofnativehandiworkfornominalsums。Inthosehappydays，tobelongtotheinvadingracewasasufficientpassporttothegoodgracesoftheEuropeans，whoaskednootherguaranteesbeforetradingwiththenewcomers，butflockedaroundthem，offeringtheirservicesandtheirprimitivemanufactures，convincedthatAmericanswereallwealthy。
Alas!Historyeverrepeatsitself。AsMexicansandPeruvians，afterreceivingtheirconquerorswithconfidenceandenthusiasm，cametoruethedaytheyhadopenedtheirarmstostrangers，sotheEuropeanpeoples，beforeaquarterofacenturywasover，realizedthatthehordesfromacrosstheseawhowereover-runningtheirlands，raisingprices，crowdingthenativestudentsoutoftheschools，andfinallyattemptingtoforceanentranceintosociety，hadlittletorecommendthemorjustifytheirpresenceexceptmoney。Eveninthissomeoftheintruderswereunsatisfactory。
Thosewhohadbeenreceivedintothe\"bosom\"ofhotelsoftenforgottosettlebeforedeparting。Thecontinentalwomenwhohadprovidedthewivesofdiscovererswiththeraimentofthecountry(aluxurygreatlyaffectedbythoseladies)found，totheirdisgust，thattheirnewcustomerswereoftenunableorunwillingtoofferanyremuneration。
Inconsequenceoftheseandmanyotherdisillusions，Americansbegantobecalledthe\"Destroyers，\"especiallywhenitbecameknownthatnothingwastooheavyortoobulkytobecarriedawaybytheinvaders，whotoretheinsidesfromthenativehouses，thepaintingsfromthewalls，thestatuesfromthetemples，andtransportedthisbootyacrosstheseas，muchinthesamewayastheRomanshadplunderedGreece。Elaboratefurnitureseemedespeciallytoattractthenewarrivals，whoacquiredvastquantitiesofit。
Here，however，thewilynatives(whowerebeginningtoappreciatetheirownbelongings)hadrevenge。Immensequantitiesofworthlessimitationsweresecretlymanufacturedandsoldtothetravellersatfabulousprices。Thesameartificewasusedwithpaintings，saidtobebygreatmasters，andwithimitationsofoldstuffsandbric-
a-brac，whichtheignorantandarrogantinvaderspretendedtoappreciateandcollect。
PrevioustoourarrivaltherehadbeenaninvasionoftheContinentbytheEnglishabouttheyear1812。Oneoftheirhistorians，calledThackeray，givesanamusingaccountofthisintheopeningchaptersofhis\"ShabbyGenteelStory。\"Thatevent，however，wasunimportantincomparisonwiththegreatAmericanmovement，althoughbothwerecharacterizedbythesametotaldisregardofthefeelingsandprejudicesofindigenouspopulations。TheEnglishthenwalkedaboutthecontinentalchurchesduringdivineservice，gazingatthepicturesandconsultingtheirguide-booksasunconcernedlyasourcompatriotsdoto-day。Theyalsocrowdedintotheatresandconcerthalls，andafterwardswrotetothenewspaperscomplainingofthebadatmosphereofthoseprimitiveestablishmentsandofthelongENTR\'ACTES。
Aslongastheinvadersconfinedthemselvestosuchtrifles，thepatientforeignerssubmittedtotheiroverbearinganduncouthwaysbecauseofthesupposedbenefittotrade。Thenativesevenwentsofarastobuildhotelsfortheaccommodationanddelightoftheinvaders，abandoningwholequarterstotheirguests。
Therewas，however，apointatwhichcomplacencystopped。Theoldercivilizationshadformedamongthemselvesrestrictedandexclusivesocieties，towhichaccesswasalmostimpossibletostrangers。Thesesanctuariestemptedtheimmigrants，whoofferedtheirfairestvirginsandmuchtreasurefortheprivilegeofadmission。Theindigenousaristocrats，whoweremostlypoor，yieldedtotheseoffersandafewAmericanssucceededinforcinganentrance。Buttheoldnobilitysoonbecamefrightenedatthenumberandvulgarityoftheinvaders，andwithdrewseverelyintotheirshells，refusingtoacceptanyfurtherbribeseitherintheformoffemalesorfinance。
Fromthismomentdatesthehumiliationofthediscoverers。AlltheirbootyandplunderseemedworthlessincomparisonwiththeElysiandelightstheyimaginedwereconcealedbehindthecloseddoorsofthoseholyplaces，visionsofwhichtorturedthewomenfromthewesternhemisphereandpreventedtheirtakinganypleasureinothervictories。Tobereceivedintothoseinnercirclesbecametheirchiefambition。Withthisendinviewtheydressedthemselvesinexpensivecostumes，tookthetroubletolearnthe\"lingo\"spokeninthecountry，wenttotheextremityofcopyingthewaysofthenativewomenbypaintingtheirfaces，andinoneortwocasesimitatedthelaxityoftheirmorals。
Inspiteoftheseconcessions，ourwomenwerenotreceivedwithenthusiasm。Onthecontrary，theverynameofanAmericanbecameabywordandanabominationineverycontinentalcity。Thisprejudiceagainstusabroadishardlytobewonderedatonreflectingwhatwehavedonetoacquireit。Theagentschosenbyourgovernmenttotreatdiplomaticallywiththeconquerednations，owetheirselectiontopoliticalmotivesratherthantotheirtactorfitness。InthelargemajorityofcasesmenaresentoverwhoknowlittleeitherofthehabitsorlanguagesprevailinginEurope。
Theworstelementsalwaysfollowinthewakeofdiscovery。Oursettlementsabroadgraduallybecametheabodeofthecompromised，thedivorced，thesociallyandfinanciallybankrupt。
Withinthelastdecadewehavefoundawaytorevengetheslightsputuponus，especiallythoseofferedtoAmericansinthecapitalofGaul。Havingforthemomentnoplaywrightsofourown，themenwhoconcoctdramas，comedies，andburlesquesforourstagefind，insteadofwearyingthemselvesintryingtoproduceoriginalmatter，thatitismuchsimplertoadaptfromFrenchwriters。ThishasbeencarriedtosuchalengththatentireFrenchplaysarenowproducedinNewYorksignedbyAmericannames。
ThegreatFrenchplaywrightscanprotectthemselvesbytakingoutAmericancopyright，butifoneofthemomitsthisformality，the\"conquerors\"immediatelyseizeuponhisworkandtranslateit，omittingintentionallyallmentionoftherealauthorontheirprogrammes。ThisseasonaplaywasproducedofwhichthefirstactwastakenfromGuydeMaupassant，thesecondandthird\"adapted\"
fromSardou，withepisodesintroducedfromotherauthorstobrightenthemixture。Thepiecethuspatchedtogetherissignedbyawell-knownAnglo-Saxonname，andacceptedbyourmoralpublic，althoughtheoriginalofthefirstactwasstoppedbytheParisianpoliceastooimmoralforthatgaycapital。
Ofwhatusewoulditbeto\"discover\"anewcontinentunlesstheexplorersweretoreapsomesuchbenefits？Letustakeeveryadvantagethatourproudpositiongivesus，plunderingtheforeignauthors，makingpenalsettlementsoftheircapitals，andignoringtheirfoolishcustomsandprejudiceswhenwetravelamongthem!InthiswayshallweeffectuallyimpressontheinferiorracesacrosstheAtlanticthegreatnessoftheAmericannation。
CHAPTER39-ARaceofSlavesITisallverywellforustohaveinvadedEurope，andawakenedthatsomnolentcontinenttothelightsanddelightsofAmericanways；tohavebeautifiedthecitiesoftheoldworldwithgracefultrolleysandilluminatedthecatacombsatRomewithelectricity。
EverytrueAmericanmustthrillwithsatisfactionattheseachievements，andtheknowledgethathebelongstoadominatingrace，beforewhichthewaningcivilizationofEuropemustfadeawayanddisappear。
TohavediscoveredEuropeandtoruleasconquerorsabroadiswell，butitisnotenough，ifweareledinchainsathome。Itisrecordedofacertainambitiouscaptainwhose\"Commentaries\"madeourschool-daysaburden，that\"hepreferredtobethefirstinavillageratherthansecondatRome。\"Oddlyenough，WEarecontentedtobeslavesinourvillageswhileweareconquerorsinRome。Canitbethatthestrugglesofourancestorsforfreedomwerefoughtinvain？Didtheythrowofftheyokeofkings，crosstheAtlantic，foundanewformofgovernmentonanewcontinent，breakwithtraditions，andsignadeclarationofindependence，onlythatweshouldsuccumb，acenturylater，yieldingthefruitsoftheirhard-foughtbattleswithcravensupinenessintothehandsofcorporationsandmunicipalities；humblybowingnecksthatrefusetobendbeforeanointedsovereigns，tothewillofsteamboatsubordinates，theinsolenceofbe-diamondedhotel-clerks，andthecaptiousconductor？
LastweekmytrainfromWashingtonarrivedinJerseyCityontime。
Wescurried(likegoodAmericans)totheferry-boat，hotandtiredandanxioustogettoourdestination；ahopedeferred，however，forourboatwaskeptwaitingfortylongminutes，because，forsooth，anothertrainfromsomewhereintheSouthwasbehindtime。Expostulationswereinvain。Beingonlythepayingpublic，wehadnorightsthatthoseautocrats，theofficials，wereboundtorespect。Theargumentthatiftheyknewthesoutherntraintobesomuchbehind，theferry-boatwouldhaveplentyoftimetotakeusacrossandreturn，wasofnoavail，so，likeacargoof\"moo-cows\"
(asthechildrensay)，wesubmittedmeekly。Inordertomakethetimepassmorepleasantlyforthetwohundredpeoplegatheredontheboat，aduskypotentatejudgedthemomentappropriatetoscrubthecabinfloors。So，aidedbyacoupleofsubordinates，heproceededtodelugetheentireplaceinfloodsofwater，obligingustositwithourfeettuckedupunderus，splashingtheladies\'
skirtsandourwrapsandbelongings。
Suchtreatmentofthepublicwouldhaveraisedariotanywherebutinthislandoffreedom。Doyousupposeanyonemurmured？Notatall。Thewell-trainedpublichadtheairofbeinginchurch。Myneighborsappearedastonishedatmyimpatience，andinformedmethattheywereoftendetainedinthatway，asthecompanywasshortofboats，buttheyhopedtohaveanewoneinayearortwo。ThisdetaildidnotpreventthatcorporationadvertisingourtraintoarriveinNewYorkatthree-thirteen，insteadofwhichwelandedatfouro\'clock。IfasimilarbreachofcontracthadhappenedinEngland，adozenletterswouldhaveappearedinthe\"Times，\"andthegrievancebeenwellaired。
AnotherinflictiontowhichallwhotravelinAmericaaresubjectedisthebrushingatrocity。Twentyminutesbeforeatrainarrivesatitsdestination，thedespotwhohastakennonoticeofanyoneuptothismoment，excepttosnubthem，becomessuspiciouslyattentiveandinsistsonbrushingeverybody。Thedirtonetravellerhasbeenaccumulatingissentincloudsintothefacesofhisneighbors。
Whenheispolishedoffandhaspaidhis\"quarter\"oftribute，thenextmangetsup，andthedirtisthenbrushedbackontonumberone，withnumbertwo\'scollectionadded。
Labichebeginsoneofhisplayswithtwoservantsatworkinasalon。\"Dusting，\"saysoneofthem，\"istheartofsendingthedirtfromthechairontherightovertothesofaontheleft。\"I
alwaysthinkofthatremarkwhenIseetheprocessperformedinaparlorcar，forwhenitisoverweareallexactlywherewebegan。
Ifamanshouldshampoohishair，orhavehisbootscleanedinasalon，hewouldbeejectedasaboor；yettheideaapparentlyneverenterstheheadsofthosewhosoilandchoketheirfellow-
passengersthatthebrushingmightbedoneinthevestibule。
Onthesubjectoffreshairandheatwearealsointhehandsofofficials，dozensofpassengersbeingmadetosufferforthecapricesofoneoftheirnumber，orthetasteofsomecaptiousinvalid。Inotherlandstherightsofminoritiesareoftenignored。Withusitisthecontrary。Onesnifflingschool-girlwhoprefersatemperatureof80degreescanforceacarfullofpeopletoswelterinanatmospherethatisdeathtothem，becausesherefuseseithertoputonherwrapsortohaveawindowopened。
Streetrailwaysaretorture-chamberswhereweslavesaremadetosufferinanotherway。Youmustbegintoreelandplungetowardsthedooratleasttwoblocksbeforeyourdestination，soastoleaptothegroundwhenthecarslowsup；otherwisetheconductorwillbeoffendedwithyou，andcarryyouseveralsquarestoofar，orwithajocose\"Steplively，\"willgraspyourelbowandshootyouout。Anyonewhoshouldsitquietlyinhisplaceuntilthevehiclehadcometoafullstop，wouldberegardedbytheslave-driverandhiscargoasaPOSEURwhowasassumingairs。
Theideathatcarsandboatsexistfortheconvenienceofthepublicwasexplodedlongago。Wearemade，dozensoftimesaday，tofeelthatthisisnolongerthecase。Itis，onthecontrary，broughtvividlyhometousthatsuchconveyancesaremoneymakingmachinesinthepossessionofpowerfulcorporations(towhomwe，inourdebasement，havehandedoverthefreedomofourstreetsandrivers)，andarerunintheinterestandatthediscretionoftheirowners。
Itisnotonlybeforethegreatandthepowerfulthatwebowinsubmission。Theshop-girlisanothertyrantwhohasplantedherfootfirmlyontheneckofthenation。Sherespectsneithersexnorage。Ensconcedbehindthebulwarkofhercounter，shescornstonoticehumbleaspirantsuntiltheyhaveperformedapreliminarypenance；atimeshefillsupincheerfulconversationaddressedtootheryoungtyrants，onlydecidingtonoticecustomerswhensheseestheirlastgrainofpatienceisexhausted。Sheisoftenofamerrymood，andifanythingaboutyourappearanceormannerstrikeshercriticalsenseasamusing，willlaughgaylywithhercompanionsatyourexpense。
AFrenchgentlemanwhospeaksourlanguagecorrectlybutwithsomeaccent，toldmethathefounditimpossibletogetservedinourstores，theshop-girlsburstingwithlaughterbeforehecouldmakehiswantsknown。
NotlongagoIwasattheCompagnieLyonnaiseinPariswithastoutAmericanlady，whoinsistedontippingherchairforwardonitsfrontlegsassheselectedsomelaces。Suddenlythechairflewfromunderher，andshesatviolentlyonthepolishedfloorinanattitudesosupremelycomicthattherestofherpartywereinwardlyconvulsed。Notamusclemovedinthefacesofthewell-
trainedclerks。Theproprietorassistedhertoriseasgravelyasifhewerebowingustoourcarriage。
InrestaurantsAmericancitizensaretreatedevenworsethanintheshops。Youwillseecowedcustomerswhoareanxioustogetawaytotheirbusinessorpleasuresittingmutelypatient，untilawaiterhappenstoremembertheirorders。Idonotknowasingleestablishmentinthiscitywherethewaiterstakeanynoticeoftheircustomers\'arrival，orwheretheproprietorcomes，towardtheendofthemeal，toinquireifthedisheshavebeencookedtotheirtaste。TheinterestsogeneralontheContinentorinEnglandisreplacedherebythesameairofbeingdisturbedfrommoreimportantoccupations，thatcharacterizestheshop-girlandelevatorboy。
Numbersofourpeopleliveapparentlyinaweoftheirservantsandtheopinionofthetradespeople。Onemiddle-agedladywhomI
occasionallytaketothetheatre，insistswhenwearriveatherdooronmyaccompanyinghertotheelevator，inorderthattheyouthwhopresidesthereinmayseethatshehasanescort，theopinionofthissubordinateapparentlybeingofsupremeimportancetoher。Oneofour\"gildedyouths\"recentlytoldmeofathrillingadventureinwhichhehadfigured。Atthemomenthewaspassingunderanawningonhiswaytoareception，agustofwindsenthishatgambollingdowntheblock。\"Thinkwhatasituation，\"heexclaimed。\"Therestoodagroupofmyfriends\'footmenwatchingme。ButIwasequaltothesituationandenteredthehouseasifnothinghadhappened!\"SirWalterRaleighsacrificedacloaktopleaseaqueen。Thisyouthabandonedanewhat，fearingthelaughterofahalf-dozenservants。
Oneofthereasonswhywehavebecomesoweakinthepresenceofourpaidmastersisthatnowhereistheindividualallowedtoprotest。Theothernightafriendwhowaswithmeatatheatreconsideredtheactinginferior，andexpressedhisopinionbyhissing。Hewaspromptlyejectedbyapoliceman。Themannextmewas，onthecontrary，sopleasedwiththepiecethatheencoredeverysong。Ihadpaidtoseethepieceonce，andrebelledatbeingobligedtoseeittwicetosuitmyneighbor。Onreferringthemattertothebox-office，thecaliphinchargeinformedmethattheslavesheallowedtoenterhisestablishment(likethosewhoinotherdaysformedthecourtofLouisXIV。)werepermittedtopraise，butweresuppressediftheymurmureddissent。InhisMEMOIRES，Dumas，PERE，tellsofa\"firstnight\"whenthreethousandpeopleapplaudedaplayofhisandonespectatorhissed。\"HewastheonlyoneIrespected，\"saidDumas，\"forthepiecewasbad，andthatcriticismspurredmeontoimproveit。\"
Howcanwehopeforanyimprovementinthestandardofourentertainments，themannersofourservantsorthewaysofcorporationswhennoonecomplains？Wearetoomuchinahurrytofollowupagrievanceandhaveitrighted。\"Itdoesn\'tpay，\"\"I
haven\'tgotthetime，\"arephraseswithwhichallsuchsubjectsaredismissed。Wewillsitinover-heatedcars，eatvilelycookedfood，putupwithinsolencefromsubordinates，becauseitistoomuchtroubletoassertourrights。IsthespiritthatpromptedthefirstshotsonLexingtonCommonbecomingextinct？HavethefloodsofemigrationsodilutedourAnglo-Saxonbloodthatwenolongercaretofightforliberty？Willnopatriotariseandleadarevoltagainstourtyrants？
Iampreparedtofollowsuchaleader，andhavealreadymarkedmyprey。First，Iwillslayacertainmiscreantwhositsatthereceiptofcustomsinthebox-officeofanup-towntheatre。ForyearsIhavetriedtopropitiatethatsatrapwithmodestpolitenessandfeeblelittlejokes。Hehasneverbeensoftenedbyeither，butcontinuesto\"chuck\"theworstplacesouttome(nomatterhowearlyIarrive，thebesthavealwaysbeengiventothespeculators)，andtofrowndownmyattemptsatself-assertion。
WhenIhaveseenthisenemyatmyfeet，Ishallstartdowntown(stoppingonthewaytobrainthetelleratmybank，whoisperenniallyparinghisnails，andrefusestoseemeuntilthatoperationisperformed)，totheofficeofanight-boatline，wheretheclerkhassooftenforcedme，withhundredsofotherwearyvictims，tostandinlinelikeconvicts，whilehechatswitha\"ladyfriend，\"hisbackturnedtousandhislegcomfortablythrownoverthearmofhischair。ThenIwilltakemyblood-stainedway-
but，no!Itisbetternottoputmyvictimsontheirguard，buttoabidemytimeinsilence!Courage，fellow-slaves，ourdaywillcome!
CHAPTER40-Introspection*
THEcloseofayearmustbringeventothecarelessandtheleastinclinedtowardself-inspection，anhourofthoughtfulness，adesiretoglancebackacrossthepast，andsetone\'smentalhouseinorder，beforestartingoutonanotherstageofthejourneyforthatnonetoodistantbournetowardwhichweallaremoving。
*Decemberthirty-first，1888。
Ourmindsarelikesolitarydwellersinavastresidence，whomhabithasaccustomedtoliveinafewonlyofthecountlesschambersaroundthem。Wehavecollectedfromotherpartsofourlivesmentalfurnitureandbric-a-bracthattimeandassociationhaveendearedtous，haveinstalledthesemeagrebelongingsconvenienttoourhand，andcontrivedanentrancegivingfacileaccesstoourliving-rooms，avoidingtheeffortofalongdetourthroughtheechoingcorridorsanddisusedsalonsbehind。Noacquaintances，andbutfewfriends，penetrateintotheprivatechambersofourthoughts。Wesetasideacommonroomforthereceptionofvisitors，makingitascheerfulascircumstanceswillallowandtakecarethattheconversationthereinrarelyturnsonanysubjectmorepersonalthantheviewfromthewindowsorthepropheciesofthebarometer。
Intheold-fashionedbrickpalaceatKensington，alittlesuiteofroomsiscarefullyguardedfromthepublicgaze，swept，garnishedandtendedasthoughtheoccupantsoflongagowerehourlyexpectedtoreturn。TheearlyyearsofEngland\'sagedsovereignwerepassedinthesesimpleapartmentsandbyherorderstheyhavebeenkeptunchanged，thefurnitureanddecorationsremainingto-dayaswhensheinhabitedthem。Inonecorner，isassembledagroupofdolls，dressedinthequaintfineryof1825。Asetofminiaturecookingutensilsstandsnearby。Achild\'sscrap-booksandcolor-boxeslieonthetables。Inonesunnychamberstandsthelittlewhite-drapedbedwheretheheiresstothegreatestcrownonearthdreamedherchildishdreams，andfromwhichshewashastilyarousedoneJunemorningtobesalutedasQueen。Sohomelikeandlivableanairpervadestheplace，thatonealmostexpectstoseethelonelylittlegirlofseventyyearsagoplayingabouttheunpretendingchambers。
Affectionforthepastandareverenceforthememoryofthedeadhavecausedtheroyalwifeandmothertopreservewiththesamecaresouvenirsofherpassageinotherroyalresidences。Theapartmentsthatshelteredthefirsthappymonthsofherweddedlife，theroomswheresheknewthejoysandanxietiesofmaternity，havebecomeforherconsecratedsanctuaries，wherethewidowed，brokenoldladycomesoncertainanniversariestoevoketheunforgottenpast，tomeditateandtopray。
Who，astheyearisdrawingtoitsclose，doesnotopeninmemorysomesuchsacredportal，andsitdowninthefamiliarroomstoliveoveragaintheoldhopesandfears，thrillinganewwiththejoysandtemptationsofotherdays？Yet，eachyearthesepilgrimagesintothepastmustbecomemoreandmorelonelyjourneys；thefriendswhomwecantakebythehandandleadbacktoouroldhomesbecomefewerwitheachdecade。Itwouldbeauselesssacrilegetoforcesomelistlessacquaintancetoaccompanyus。Hewouldnothearthevoicesthatcalltous，orseethelovedfacesthatpeoplethesilentpassages，andwouldwonderwhatattractionwecouldfindinthestuffy，old-fashionedquarters。
Manypeoplehavesuchadislikeforanymentalprivacythattheypasstheirlivesinpublic，orsurroundedonlybysportingtrophiesandgames。Someenjoylivingintheirpantries，composingforthemselvessucculentdishes，andinterestedinthedoingsoftheservants，theircompanions。Othershaveturnedtheirsalonsintonurseries，orfeelapredilectionforthestableandthedog-
kennels。Suchpeoplesoonwearyoftheirsurroundings，andmoveconstantly，destroying，whentheyleaveoldquarters，alltheobjectstheyhadcollected。
Themenandwomenwhohavethuscurtailedtheirbelongingsare，however，quitecontentedwiththemselves。Nodoubtseverharassthemastothecommodityorappropriatenessoftheirlodgementsandlookwithpityandcontemptonfriendswhoremainfaithfultooldhabitations。Thedrawbacktoamigratoryexistence，however，isthefactthat，asaFrenchsayinghasputit，CEUXQUISEREFUSENT
LESPENSEESSERIEUSESTOMBENTDANSLESIDEESNOIRES。Thesepeoplearesurprisedtofindastheyearsgobythatthefutileamusementstowhichtheyhavedevotedthemselvesdonotfilltotheirsatisfactionallthehoursofalifetime。Havingprovidednobooksnorlearnedtopractiseanyart，thetimehangsheavilyontheirhands。Theydarenotlookforwardintothefuture，soblankandcheerlessdoesitappear。Thepastisevenmoredistastefultothem。So，tofillthevoidintheirhearts，theyhurryoutintothecrowdasarefugefromtheirownthoughts。
Happythosewhocaretorevisitoldabodes，childhood\'sremotewing，andthemoonlitporcheswheretheyknewtheraptureofafirst-lovewhisper。Whocanenterthechapelwheretheirdeadlie，andfeelnoblushofself-reproach，norburningconsciousnessofbrokenfaithnorwastedopportunities？Thenewyearwillbringtothemasnearanapproachtoperfecthappinessascanbeattainedinlife\'sjourney。Thefortunatemortalsarerarewhocan，withoutaheartacheorregret，passthroughtheirdisusedandabandoneddwellings；whodaretoopeneverydoorandenterallthesilentrooms；whodonothurryshudderinglybysomeobscurecorners，andreturnwithasighofrelieftothecheerfulsunlightandmurmursofthepresent。
Sleeplessmidnighthourscomeinevitablytoeachofus，whenthecreakinggatesofsubterraneanpassagesfardowninourconsciousnessopenofthemselves，andghostlyinhabitantsstealoutofawfulvaultsandforceustolookagainintotheirfacesandtouchtheirunhealedwounds。
Anoldladywhosecheerfulnessunderahundredgriefsandtribulationswasamarvelandanexample，oncetoldamanwhohadcometoherforcounselinamomentofbittertrouble，thatshehadderivedcomfortwhendifficultiesloomedbigaroundherbywritingdownallhercaresandworries，makingalistofthesubjectsthatharassedher，andhadalwaysfoundthat，whenreducedtomaterialwrittenwords，thedimensionsofhertroubleswereastonishinglydiminished。Sherecommendedherproceduretothetroubledyouth，andprophesiedthathisanxietieswoulddwindleawayintheclearatmosphereofpenandpaper。
Introspection，thedeliberateunlatchingofclosedwickets，hasthesameeffect
ofstealingawaythebitternessfromthoughtsthat，ifleftinthegloomofsemi-oblivion，willgrowuntiltheyovershadowawholelife。ItisbettertofollowtheexampleofEngland\'spureQueen，visitingoncertainanniversariesoursecretplacesandholdingcommunionwiththepast，foritisby。
Thosewhohavecouragetoperformthoroughlythistaskwillcomeoutfromthesilentchamberspurifiedandchastened，morelenienttothefaultsandshortcomingsofothers，andbetterfittedtotakeupcheerfullytheburdensofanewyear。
