shewas，invitinghimtodineanddrivedaily，butwhenhebroachedthesubjectof\"sitting，\"was\"toobusyjustthatday。\"Laterintheautumnshewouldbequiteathisdisposal。Intheautumn，however，shewasvisiting，nevertendaysinthesameplace。Earlywinterfoundher\"gettingherhouseinorder，\"amysteriousriteapparentlyattendedwithvastworryandfatigue。Withcoolingenthusiasm，thepaintercalledandcoaxedandwaited。NovemberbroughttheoperaandthefullswingofaNewYorkseason。Sofarshehasgivenhimhalfadozensittings，squeezedinbetweenaluncheon，whichmadeher\"unavoidablylate，\"forwhichsheischarmingly\"sorry，\"andareceptionthatshewasforcedtoattend，although\"itbreaksmyhearttoleavejustasyouarebeginningtoworksowell，butI
reallymust，orthetiresomeoldcatwhoisgivingtheteawillbesayingallsortsofunpleasantthingsaboutme。\"Sosheflitsoff，leavingthepoor，disillusionedpainterbeforehiscanvas，knowingnowthathisdreamisover，thatinamonthortwohisprettysitterwillbeoffagaintoNewOrleansforthecarnival，orabroad，andthathiswearyroundofwaitingwillrecommence。Hewillbefortunateifsomedayitdoesnotfloatbacktohim，inthemysteriouswaydisagreeablethingsdocometoone，thatshehasbeenheardtosay，\"IfeardearMr。Paletteisnotveryclever，forIhavebeensittingtohimforoverayear，andhehasreallydonenothingyet。\"
Hehasbeensimplythevictimofastateofaffairsthatneitherofthemwerestrongenoughtobreakthrough。ItneverenteredintoBeauty\'sheadthatshecouldleadalifedifferentfromherfriends。Shewashonestlyanxioustohaveasuccessfulportraitofherself，butthesacrificeofanyofherhabitswasmorethanshecouldmake。
Whoamongmyreaders(andIamtemptedtobelievetheyareallmoresensiblethantheaboveyoungwoman)hasnot，duringasummerpassedwithagreeablefriends，madeathousandpleasantlittleplanswiththemfortheensuingwinter，-thebookstheyweretoreadatthesametime，the\"exhibitions\"theyweretosee，thevisitstoourwonderfulcollectionsintheMetropolitanMuseumorprivategalleries，cosylittledinners，etc。？Andwhohasnotfound，asthewinterslipsaway，thatfewofthesecharmingplanshavebeencarriedout？Heandhisfriendshaveunconsciouslyfallenbackintotheirrutsofformeryears，andthepleasantthingsprojectedhavebeenbrushedasidebythatstrongestoftyrants，habit。
Ionceaskedaverygreatlady，whosegraciousmannerwasneverdisturbed，whofloatedthroughtheendlesscomplicationsofherlifewithsmilingserenity，howsheachievedthisOlympiancalm。
Shewasgoodenoughtoexplain。\"ImakealistofwhatIwanttodoeachday。Then，asIfindmydaypassing，orIgetbehind，ortired，Ithrowovereveryotherengagement。Icouldhavedonethemallwithhurryandfatigue。Iprefertodoone-halfandenjoywhatIdo。IfIgotoahouse，itistoremainandappreciatewhateverentertainmenthasbeenpreparedforme。Ineveroffertoanyhostesstheslightofahurried，DISTRAIT\'call，\'withglancesatmywatch，andan\'on-the-wing\'manner。Itismucheasiernottogo，ortosendacard。\"
ThisbringsmearoundtoasubjectwhichIbelieveisoneofthecausesofmycorrespondent\'sdilemma。Ifearthatshenevercanrefuseanything。Itisapeculiartraitofpeoplewhogoabouttoamusethemselves，thattheyarealwayssuretheparticularentertainmenttheyhavebeenaskedtolastisgoingto\"beamusing。\"Itrarelyisdifferentfromtheothers，butthesepeopleareconvinced，thattostayawaywouldbetomisssomething。A
weary-lookinggirlabout1A。M。(atahouse-party)whenaskedwhyshedidnotgotobedifshewassotired，answered，\"thenightsI
gotobedearly，theyalwaysseemtodosomethingjolly，andthenI
missit。\"
Thereisnogreaterproofofhowmuchthiswearyroundwearsonwomenthantheactsofthefewwhofeelthemselvesstrongenoughintheirpositiontodefycustom。Theyhavethrownofftheyoke(atleasttheyoungeroneshave)doubtlessbackedupbytheirhusbands，formenaremuchquickertoseetheaimlessnessofthisstupidsocialroutine。FirsttheybrokedownthegreatNew-Year-call\"grind。\"Menoverfortydoubtlessrecallwithashudder，thatawfulcustomwhichcompelledamantogetintohisdressclothesattenA。M。，andpasshisdayrushingaboutfromhousetohouselikeapostman。Out-of-townclubsandsporthelpedtodoawaywiththatremnantofNewAmsterdam。Nextcamethemalerevoltfromtheafternoon\"tea\"or\"musical。\"Ablackcoatisrarenowateitherofthesefunctions，orifseenisprettysuretobeonabackoverfifty。Next，welordsofcreationrefusedtocallatall，orleaveourcards。Amarriedwomannowleavesherhusband\'scardwithherown，andsistersleavethe\"pasteboard\"oftheirbrothersandoftenthoseoftheirbrothers\'friends。Anycombinationisgoodenoughto\"shootacard。\"
InLondonthemenhavegoneastepfurther。Itisnotuncommontohearayoungmanboastthatheneverownedavisitingcardormadea\"duty\"callinhislife。Neithertherenorwithusdoesamancountasa\"call\"aquietcupofteawithawomanhelikes，andacigaretteandquiettalkuntildressingtime。Lettheyoungwomenhavecourageandtakemattersintotheirownhands。(TheolderonesarehopelessandwillgoonpushingthisJuggernautcarovereachother\'swearybodies，untiltheendofthechapter。)Letthemhavethecourageoccasionallyto\"refuse\"something，tokeepthemselvesfreefromaimlessengagements，andbringthispaste-
boardwartoaclose。Ifawomanisattractive，shewillbeaskedoutallthesame，neverfear!Ifsheisnotpopular，thefewdozenof\"egg-shellextra\"thatshecanmanagetoslipinatthefrontdoorsofheracquaintanceswillnothelphermuch。
Ifthismatteris，however，sovastlyimportantinwomen\'seyes，whynotadoptthecontinentalanddiplomaticcustomandsendcardsbypostorotherwise？There，ifanew-comerdinesoutandmeetstwenty-fivepeopleforthefirsttime，cardsmustbeleftthenextdayattheirtwenty-fiverespectiveresidences。Howthecardsgetthereisofnoimportance。Itisadiplomaticfictionthatthenewacquaintancehascalledinperson，andthecallwillbereturnedwithintwenty-fourhours。Thinkofthesavingoftimeandstrength!InParis，onNewYear\'sDay，peoplesendcardsbyposttoeverybodytheywishtokeepup。Thatdoesforayear，andnomoreisthoughtaboutit。Allthetimethusgainedcanbegiventocultureorrecreation。
Ihaveoftenwonderedwhyoneseessofewwomenoneknowsatourpictureexhibitionsorflowershows。Itisnolongeramysterytome。Theyareallbusytrottingupanddownourlongsidestreetsleavingcards。Hideousvision!ShouldDantebyanychancereincarnate，hewouldfindherethematerialreadymadetohishandforaneighthcircleinhisINFERNO。
CHAPTER21-\"LikeMasterLikeMan。\"
AFREQUENTandnaivecomplaintonehears，isoftheunsatisfactorinessofservantsgenerally，andtheiringratitudeandastonishinglackofaffectionfortheirmasters，inparticular。
\"AfterallIhavedoneforthem，\"isprettysuretosumupthelongtaleofahousewife\'sgriefs。Ofallthedelightfulinconsistenciesthatgracethefemalemind，thislatterpointofviewalwaysstrikesmeasbeingthemostcomplete。Iartfullyleadmyfairfriendontotellmeallaboutherwoes，andsheissuretobeexquisitelyone-sidedandquiteunconsciousofherposition。
\"Theyaresoextravagant，takesolittleinterestinmythings，andleavemeatamoment\'snotice，iftheygetanideaIamgoingtobreakup。Horridthings!IwishIcoulddowithoutthem!Theycausemeendlessworryandannoyance。\"Myfriendisverynearlyright，-butwithwhomliesthefault？
Theconditionswerebadenoughyearsago，whenservantswerekeptfordecadesinthesamefamily，descendinglikeheirloomsfromfathertoson，often(abroad)beingthefostersistersorbrothersoftheirmasters，andboundtothehouseholdbyanhundredtiesofsympathyandtradition。Butinourday，andinAmerica，wherethereisrarelyevenacommonlanguageornationalitytoformabond，andwherehouseholdsarebrokenupwithsuchfacility，therelationbetweenmasterandservantisoftensostrainedandsounpleasantthatweriskbecoming(whatforeignersreproachuswithbeing)，anationofhotel-dwellers。Noristhisclass-feelinggreatlytobewonderedat。Thecontrarywouldbeastonishing。
Fromtheprimitivehousehold，whereapoorneighborcomesinas\"help，\"tothe\"great\"establishmentwherethebutlerandhousekeepereatapart，andagroupofplush-cladflunkiesimportedfromEnglandadorntheentrance-hall，nothingcouldbebettercontrivedtosetoneclassagainstanotherthandomesticservice。
Proverbshavegrownoutofitineverylanguage。\"Nomanisaherotohisvalet，\"and\"familiaritybreedscontempt，\"areclearenough。
Ourcomicpapersarefullofthemisunderstandingsandabsurditiesofthesituation，whileonerarelyseesajokemadeabouttheotherwaysthatthepoorearntheirliving。Thinkofitforamoment!
Tobeobligedtoattendpeopleatthetimesofdaywhentheyareleastattractive，whenfromfatigueortempertheydropthemaskthatsocietygluestotheirfacessomanyhoursinthetwenty-four；
toseealwaystheseamysideoflife，thesmallexpedients，theaidstonature；tostandbehindachairandhearanacquaintanceofyourmaster\'sridiculed，whohasjustbeenwarmlypraisedtohisface；toseeahostesswhohasbeengraciouslyurgingherguests\"nottogososoon，\"blurtoutallherboredomandthankfulness\"thatthosetiresomeSo-and-So\'s\"are\"paidoffatlast，\"assoonasthedoorisclosedbehindthem，mustneedsgiveacuriousbenttoaservant\'smind。Theyseetheiremployersinsincere，andcopythem。Manyamistresswhohasbeensmilinglyassuredbyhermaidhowmuchherdressbecomesher，andhowyoungsheislooking，wouldbethunderstrucktohearherselflaughedatandcriticised(nonetoodelicately)fiveminuteslaterinthatservant\'stalk。
Servantsaretrainedfromtheiryouthuptoconcealtheirtruefeelings。Adomesticwhosaidwhatshethoughtwouldquicklyloseherplace。Frankly，isitnotaskingagooddealtoexpectamaidtobeveryfondofaladywhomakeshersitupnightafternightuntilthesmallhourstounlaceherbodiceortakedownherhair；
orimagineavaletcanbedevotedtoamasterhehastogetintobedasbesthecanbecauseheistootipsytogetthereunaided？
Immortal\"Figaro\"isthetype!Supple，liar，corrupt，intelligent，-heaidshismasterandlaughsathim，featheringhisownnestthewhile。Thereisasayingthat\"horsescorruptwhoeverliveswiththem。\"Itwouldbemorecorrecttosaythatdomesticservicedemoralizesalikebothmasterandman。
AlreadyweareobligedtodependonimmigrationforourservantsbecauseanAmericanrevoltsfromthefalseposition，thoughhewillinglyacceptslongerhoursorharderworkwherehehasnoonearoundhimbuthisequals。Itistheoldstoryofthefree，hungrywolf，andthewell-fed，butchained，house-dog。Theforeignersthatimmigrationnowbringsus，fromcountrieswheregreatclassdistinctionsexist，finditnaturalto\"serve。\"Withtheincreaseineducationandconsequentself-respect，thedifficultyofgettingefficientandcontentedservantswillincreasewithus。IthasalreadybecomeagreatsocialprobleminEngland。Thetroubleliesbeneaththesurface。Ifasuperiorclassacceptserviceatall，itiswiththeintentionofquicklygettingmoneyenoughtodosomethingbetter。Withthemserviceismerelythemeanstoanend。
Afirststepontheladder!
Badmastersarethecauseofsomuchsuffering，thattoprotectthemselves，thegreatbrother-hoodofservantshaveimaginedasystemofkeepingrunof\"places，\"andgivingthema\"character\"
whichanaspirantcanfindoutwithlittletrouble。Thisorganizationissocomplete，andsowellcarriedout，thatahouseholdwheretheladyhasa\"temper，\"wherethefoodispoor，orwhichbreaksupoften，canrarelygetafirst-classdomestic。The\"place\"hasbeenboycotted，agoodservantwillsoonerremainidlethanenterit。Ifcircumstancesaretoomuchforhimandheacceptsthesituation，itiswithhiseyesopen，knowinginfinitelymoreabouthisnewemployersandtheirfailingsthantheydreamof，orthantheycouldpossiblyfindoutabouthim。
Onethingnevercanbesufficientlyimpressedonpeople，viz。:thatweareforcedtolivewithdetectives，alwaysbehindusincapsordress-suits，readytonoteeverycarelessword，everyincautiouscriticismoffriendoracquaintance-theirmoneymattersortheirloveaffairs-andwhohavenothingmoreinterestingtodothantorepeatwhattheyhaveheard，withembroideriesandadditionsoftheirown。Consideringthis，andthatninepeopleoutoftentalkquiteobliviousoftheirservants\'presence，itistobewonderedatthatsolittle(andnotthatsomuch)troubleismade。
ItalwaysamusesmewhenIaskafriendifsheisgoingabroadinthespring，tohavehersay\"Hush!\"withafrightenedglancetowardsthedoor。
\"Iam；butIdonotwanttheservantstoknow，orthehorridthingswouldleaveme!\"
Poor，simplelady!Theyknewitbeforeyoudid，andhaddiscussedthewholematterovertheir\"tea\"whileitwasanalmostunutteredthoughtinyourmind。Iftheyhavenotalreadygivenyounotice，itisbecause，onthewholeyourhousesuitsthemwellenoughforthepresent，whiletheylookabout。Donotworryyoursimplesoul，tryingtokeepanythingfromthem。Theyknowtheamountofyourlastdressmaker\'sbill，andtherowyourhusbandmadeoverit。
Theyknowhowmuchyouwouldhavelikedyoung\"Croesus\"foryourdaughter，andthelittletricksyouplayedtobringthatmarriageabout。TheyknowwhyyouarenolongeraskedtodineatMrs。
Swell\'s，whichismorethanyouknowyourself。Mrs。Swellexplainedthemattertoafewfriendsoverherlunch-tablerecently，andthebutlertoldyourmaidthatsameevening，whowaslaughingatthestoryassheputonyourslippers!
Beforeweblamethemtoomuch，however，letusrememberthattheyhaveitintheirpowertomakegreattroubleiftheychoose。Andconsideringthelittlethatismadeinthisway，wemustconcludethat，onthewhole，theyarebetterthanwegivethemcreditforbeing，andfillatryingsituationwithmuchgoodhumorandkindliness。Theladywhoisastonishedthattheytakesolittleinterestinher，willperhapsfeeldifferentlyifshereflectshowlittletroubleshehasgivenherselftofindouttheiranxietiesandgriefs，theirtemptationsandheart-burnings；theirmaterialsituation；whomtheysupportwiththeirslowlyearnedwages，whatclaimstheyhaveonthemfromoutside。Ifshewillalsoreflectonthenumberofdaysinayearwhensheis\"notherself，\"whenheadachesordisappointmentsrufflehercharmingtemper，shemaycometotheconclusionthatitistoomuchtoexpectallthevirtuesfortwentydollarsamonth。
Alittlemorehumaninterest，mygoodfriends，alittlemoreindulgence，andyouwillnotriskfindingyourselfinthepositionoftheladywhowrotemethatlastsummershehadbeenobligedtokeepopenhousefor\"\'Cook\'tourists!\"
CHAPTER22-AnEnglishInvasionoftheRivieraWHENsixtyyearsagoLordBrougham，ENROUTEforItaly，wasthrownfromhistravellingberlineandhislegwasbroken，neartheItalianhamletofCannes，theRivierawasasunknowntothepoliteworldasthecentreofChina。TheGRANDTOURwhicheveryyoungaristocratmadewithhistutor，oncomingofage，onlyincludedcrossingfromFranceintoItalybytheAlps。ItwastheoccurrenceofanunusuallyseverewinterinSwitzerlandthatturnedBroughamasideintothelongerandlesstravelledrouteVIAtheCorniche，themarvellousRomanroadatthattimefallenintooblivion，andlittleusedevenbythelocalpeasantry。
Duringthetediousweekswhilehislegwasmending，LordBroughamamusedhimselfbyexploringthesurroundingcountryinhiscarriage，andwasquicktorealizetheadvantagesoftheclimate，andappreciatethemarvellousbeautyofthatcoast。Beforethebrokenmemberwaswholeagain，hehadboughtatractoflandandbegunavilla。Smallseed，tofurnishsuchaharvest!Tothetravellerofto-daytheRivieraoffersanalmostunbrokenchainofbeautifulresidencesfromMarseillestoGenoa。
ABritonwillinglyfollowswherealordleads，andCannesbecamethecentreofEnglishfashion，apositionitholdsto-dayinspiteofmanyattractiverivals，andthedefectionofVictoriawhocomesnowtoCimiez，backofNice，beingunwillingtovisitCannessincethesuddendeaththereoftheDukeofAlbany。AstatueofLordBrougham，the\"discoverer\"ofthelittoral，hasbeenerectedinthesunnylittlesquareatCannes，andtheEnglishhaveinmanyotherways，stampedthecityfortheirown。
Nootherracecarrytheirindividualitywiththemastheydo。Theycanliveyearsinacountryandassimilatenoneofitscustoms；onthecontrary，imposinghabitsoftheirown。Itisjustthisthatmakesthemsuchwonderfulcolonizers，andexplainswhyyouwillfindlittlegroupsofEnglishpeopledrinkingaleandplayinggolfintheshadeofthePyramidsornearthefrozenslopesofFoosiyama。Therealinwardnessofitisthattheyareadullrace，and，likedullpeopledespiseallthattheydonotunderstand。Todifferfromthemistobeinthewrong。Theycannotarguewithyou；theysimplyknow，andthatendsthematter。
IhadadiscussionrecentlywithaBritononthepronunciationofaword。Asthereisno\"Institute，\"asinFrance，tosettlemattersofthiskind，ImaintainedthatweAmericanshadasmuchauthorityforourpronunciationofthisparticularwordastheEnglish。Theanswerwascharacteristic。
\"IknowIamright，\"saidmyIslandfriend，\"becausethatisthewayIpronounceit!\"
WalkingalongtheprincipalstreetsofCannesto-day，youmightimagineyourself(exceptfortheclimate)atCowesorBrighton，soBritisharetheshopsandthecrowdthatpassesthem。Everyrestaurantadvertises\"afternoontea\"andBass\'sale，andeveryothersignbearsaLondonname。ThislittlematterofteaisparticularlycharacteristicofthewaytheEnglishhaveimposedatasteoftheirownonarebelliousnation。NothingisfurtherfromtheFrenchtastethantea-drinking，andyetaParisianladywillnowinviteyougravelyto\"fiveo\'clocker\"withher，althoughIcanrememberwhenthatbeveragewasabhorredbytheFrenchasamedicine；ifyouhadaskedaFrenchmantotakeacupoftea，hewouldhaveanswered:
\"Why？Iamnotill!\"
EvenParis(thatsupremeandundisputedarbiteroftaste)hassubmittedtoEnglishinfluence；tailor-madedressesandlow-heeledshoeshavebecomeas\"goodform\"inFranceasinLondon。ThelasttwoPresidentsoftheFrenchRepublichavetakentheoathofofficedressedinfrock-coatsinsteadofthedressclothestowhichFrenchofficialsformerlyclungastothesacraments。
ThemunicipalitiesofthelittleSoutherncitieswerequicktoseizetheirgoldenopportunity，andeverythingwasdonetodetaintherichEnglishwanderingdowntowardsItaly。Millionswerespentintransformingtheircramped，dirty，littletowns。Wideboulevardsborderedwithpalmandeucalyptusspreadtheirsunnylinesinalldirections，beingbaptizedPROMENADEDESANGLAISorBOULEVARDVICTORIA，inartfulflattery。Thenarrowmountainroadswerewidened，casinosandtheatresbuiltandcarnivalFETES
organized，thecitiesoffering\"cups\"foryacht-orhorse-races，andgivinggroundsfortennisandgolfclubs。CleverSouthernpeople!Themoneyreturnedtothemahundredfold，andtheylivedtoseetheirwildcoastbecomethechosenresidenceofthewealthiestaristocracyinEurope，andtherockyhillsidesblossomintoterraceaboveterraceofvillagardens，wherepalmandroseandgeraniumviewiththeoliveandthemimosatoshadethewhitevillasfromthesun。To-day，nolittletownonthecoastiswithoutitsEnglishchapel，Britishclub，tennisground，andgolflinks。OnafairdayatMonteCarlo，Nice，orCannes，theprevailingconversationisinEnglish，andthehandsome，well-
dressedsonsofAlbionloungealongbesidetheirastonishingwomankindasthoroughlyathomeasonBondStreet。
ThosewonderfulEnglishwomenarethesourceofunendingmarvelandamusementtotheFrench。Theycanneverunderstandthem，andsmallwonder，forwiththeexceptionofthesmall\"set\"thatsurroundsthePrinceofWales，whoaredressedintheParisianfashion，allEnglishwomenseemtobeoverwhelmedwithregretatnotbeingbornmen，andtohavespenttheirtimeandingenuitysince，intryingtomakeupfornature\'smistake。Everymasculinegarmentistwistedbythemtofitthefemalefigure；theirconversation，likethatoftheirbrothers，isabouthorsesanddogs；theirhatsandglovesarethesameasthemen\'s；andwhenwiththeirfine，largefeetinstoutshoestheystartoff，withthatparticularswinginggaitthatmakestheskirtseemsuperfluous，forastrolloftwentymilesorso，Englishwomendoseemtotheuninitiatedtohavesucceededintheirambitionofobliteratingthedifferencebetweenthesexes。
Itisofanevening，however，whenconcealmentisnolongerpossible，thatthenativetasteburstsforth，theAnglo-Saxonstandingdeclaredinallherplainness。Strongisthecontrasthere，wheretheyareplacedsidebysidewithallthatEuropeholdsofelegant，andwell-dressedFrenchwomen，whetherofthe\"world\"orthe\"half-world，\"areinvariablymarvelsoffitnessandfreshness，thesimplestmaterialsbeingconvertedbytheirskilfultouchintotoilettes，soartfullyadaptedtothewearer\'sfigureandcomplexion，astoraisesuch\"creations\"tothelevelofafineart。
Anartistfeels，hemustfixoncanvasthatparticularcombinationofcolorsorthatwonderfullineofbustandhip。ItiswithashudderthatheturnstotheBritishmatron，forshehasprobably，forthisoccasion，drapedherselfinan\"artmaterial，\"-
principally\"Liberty\"silksofdirtygreensandblues(aestheticshades!)。Heistemptedtocryoutinhisdisgust:\"Oh，Liberty!
Liberty!Howmanycrimesarecommittedinthyname!\"ItisoneoftheoddestthingsintheworldthattheEnglishshouldhaveelectedtolivesomuchinFrance，forthereareprobablynowheretwopeoplessodiametricallyopposedoneverypoint，orwhosopersistentlyandwilfullymisunderstandeachother，astheEnglishandtheFrench。
IthasbeenmyfatetoliveagooddealonbothsidesoftheChannel，andnothingismoreamusingthantoheartheabsurditiesthataregravelyassertedbyeachoftheirneighbors。ToaBriton，aFrenchmanwillalwaysbe\"eithertigerormonkey\"accordingtoVoltaire；whiletotheFrenchmindEnglishgravityisonlyhypocrisytocovereveryvice。NothingpleaseshimsomuchasagreatscandalinEngland；hewillgleefullybringyouapapercontainingtheaccountofit，toprovehowtrueishisopinion。ItisquiteuselesstoexplaintotheBritishmind，asIhaveoftentriedtodo，thatallFrenchmendonotpasstheirlivesdrinkingabsintheontheboulevards；andasEnglishmenseemtoleavetheirmoralsinavaliseatDoverwhenoffforavisittoParis，tobepickedupontheirreturn，itistimelosttotrytomakeaGaulunderstandwhatgoodhusbandsandfathersthesonsofAlbionare。
ThesetwogreatnationsseemtostandintherelationtoeachotherthatRomeandGreeceheld。TheEnglisharetheconquerorsoftheworld，anditsgreatcolonizers；withavastcapitalinwhichwealthandmiseryjostleeachotheronthestreets；ahideousconglomerationofbuildingsandmonuments，withoutformandvoid，verymuchasoldRomemusthavebeenundertheCaesars，enormousbuildingswithouttaste，andenormouswealth。
TheFrenchhaveinheritedthetemperamentoftheGreeks。Thedrama，painting，andsculpturearethepreoccupationofthepeople。Theyearlyexhibitionsare，foramonthbeforetheyopen，theuniquesubjectofconversationindrawing-roomorclub。Thestateprotectstheartistandbuyshiswork。TheirCONSERVATOIRESformthesingers，andtheirschoolsthepaintersandarchitectsofEuropeandAmerica。
TheEnglishcopythemintheirbigway，justastheRomanscopiedthemasterpiecesofGreekart，whiletheydespisedtheauthors。ItisrarethataplaysucceedsinPariswhichisnotinstantlytranslatedandproducedinLondon，oftenwiththeadapter\'snameprintedontheprogrammeinplaceoftheauthor\'s，theFrench-man，whoonlywroteit，beingignored。JustastheGreeksfadedawayanddisappearedbeforetheirRomanconquerors，itistobefearedthatinourdaythispeopleofafinerclaywillsuccumb。The\"defectsoftheirqualities\"willbetheirruin。Theywillstopathome，occupiedwithliteratureandart，perfectingtheirdaintycities；whiletheirtougherneighborsaredominatingtheglobe，imposingtheirlanguageandcustomsontheconqueredpeoplesortheearth。OnefeelsthisontheRiviera。
Itremindsyouofthecuckoowho，onceinstalledinarobin\'snest，thatseemstohimconvenientandwarmlylocatedinthesunshine，endsbykickingoutalltheyoungrobins。
CHAPTER23-ACommonWeaknessGOVERNMENTSmaychangeandalltheconditionsoflifebemodified，butcertainambitionsandneedsofmanremainimmutable。Climates，customs，centuries，haveinnowaydiminishedthecravingforconsideration，thedesiretobesomebody，tobearsomemarkindicatingtotheworldthatoneisnotasothermen。
Forcenturiestitlessuppliedthewant。Thissatisfactionhasbeendeniedtous，soambitioussoulsareobligedtoseekothermeanstofeedtheirvanity。
Evenbeforewewerebornintotheworldofnations，anattemptwasmadeamongstthearistocraticallymindedcourtsurroundingourchiefmagistrate，toformasocietythatshould(withoutthename)
bethebeginningofaclassapart。
TheorderoftheCincinnatiwastohavebeenthenucleusofanAmericannobility。Thetendenciesofthissocietyarerevealedbythefactthatprimogeniturewasitsfundamentallaw。Nothingcouldhavebeenmoreopposedtothespiritoftheage，normoreatvariancewiththedeclarationofourindependence，thantheinsertionofsuchaclause。Thisfactwasdiscoveredbythefar-
seeingeyeofWashington，andthesocietywassuppressedinthehope(sharedbyalmostallcontemporaries)thatwithnewformsofgovernmentthenatureofmanwouldundergoatransformationandriseabovesuchpuerileambitions。
Timehasshownthefallacyofthesedreams。Allthathasbeenaccomplishedisthedisplacementoftheobjectivepoint；thedesire，themaniaforahandletoone\'snameisasprevalentasever。Leavethecentresofcivilizationandwanderinthesmalltownsandvillagesofourcountry。EveryothermanyoumeetisintroducedastheColonelortheJudge，andyouwilldowellnottoinquiretoocloselyintothematter，nortoasktoseethetitle-
deedstosuchdistinctions。Ontheotherhand，toomithisprefixinaddressingoneoftheselocalmagnates，wouldbetooffendhimdeeply。Thewomen-folkwerequicktoborrowalittleofthisdistinction，andinWashingtonto-dayoneisgravelypresentedtoMrs。SenatorSmithorMrs。ColonelJones。Theclimaxbeingreachedbyoneaspiringfemalewhostylesherselfonhervisitingcards，\"Mrs。Acting-Assistant-PaymasterRobinson。\"Ifbyanychanceitshouldoccurtoanyonetoaskhermotiveinsportingsuchanunwieldyhandle，shewouldsaythatshedidit\"becauseonecan\'tbegoingaboutexplainingthatoneisnotjustordinaryMrs。
RobinsonorThompson，likethethousandothersintown。\"Awomanwhocannotfindanexcuseforassumingsuchaprefixwillsometimehaverecoursetoanotherstratagem，toparticularizeanordinarysurname。Sheremembersthatherhusband，whoeversincehewasbornhasbeenknowntoeverybodyasJim，istheproudpossessorofthemiddlenameIvanhoe，orPericles(probablytheresultofaromanticmother\'sreading)；soonefinedaytheyoungcouplebloomoutasMr。andMrs。J。PericlesSparks，totheamusementoftheirfriends，theirownsatisfaction，andthehopelessconfusionoftheirtradespeople。
NotlongagoaWesterner，whowentabroadwithatravellingshow，wasreceivedwithenthusiasminEnglandbecauseitwasthought\"TheHonorable\"whichprecededhisnameonhiscardsimpliedthatalthoughanAmericanhewassomehowthesonofanearl。Asamatteroffactheowedthistitletohavingsat，manyyearsbeforeintheSenateofafar-westernState。Hewillclingtothat\"Honorable\"andprintitonhiscardswhilelifelasts。IwastoldtheotherdayofanAmericancarpetwarriorwhoappearedatcourtfunctionabroaddecoratedwitheverycollegebadge，andfootballmedalinhispossession，towhichheaddedatthelastmomentabrasstrunkcheck，tocompletethebrilliancyoftheeffect。ThislatterdecorationattractedtheattentionoftheHeirApparent，whoinquiredthemeaningofthemystic\"416\"uponit。Thiswouldhavebeena\"facer\"toanybutatruesonofUncleSam。Nothingdaunted，however，our\"General\"replied\"That，Sir，isthenumberofpitchedbattlesIhavewon。\"
Ihavemydoubtsastotheabsoluteveracityofthistale。Butthatthesonofoneofourgenerals，appearednotlongagoatapublicreceptionabroad，wearinghisfather\'smedalsanddecorations，issaidtobetrue。DecorationsontheContinentareofficialbadgesofdistinctionconferredandrecognizedbythedifferentgovernments。AnAmericanwhowears，outofhisowncountry，anarmyorcollegebadgewhichhasnoofficialexistence，properlyspeaking，beingrecognizedbynogovernment，butwhichismadeintentionallytolookasmuchaspossiblelikethe\"Legiond\'Honneur，\"isdeliberatelyimposingontheignoranceofforeigners，andisbutlittlelessofapretentiousidiotthantheownersofthetrunkcheckandtheborroweddecorations。
Thereseemsnoendtothewaysalittleambitiousgamecanbeplayed。Onedevicemuchinfavorisforthewifetoattachherownfamilynametothatofherhusbandbymeansofahyphen。Bythisarrangementshedoesnotentirelyloseherindividuality；asaresultwehaveasplendidassortmentofhybridnames，suchasVanCortland-SmithandBeekman-Brown。Betheyneversoincongruousthesedouble-barrelledcognomensservetheirpurposeandraiseambitiousmortalsabovethelevelofotherSmithsandBrowns。
Findingthatthisarrangementworkswellintheirowncase，itispassedontothenextgeneration。TherearenomoreTomsandBillsintheseaspiringdays。ThelittleboysareallCadwalladersorCarrolls。Theirschool-fellows，however，worksadhavocwiththesehigh-soundingtitlesandquicklyabbreviatethemintohumble\"Cad\"
or\"Rol。\"
Itissurprisingtonoticewhatanumberofmiddle-agedgentlemenhaveblossomedoutoflatewithdecorationsintheirbutton-holesaccordingtotheforeignfashion。OninquiryIhavediscoveredthattheseornamentsdesignatemembersoftheG。A。R。，theLoyalLegion，orsomelocalPost，fortherosettesdifferinformandcolor。Whenthesegentlementravelabroad，toreducetheirwaistsorimprovetheirminds，theeffectsonthehotelwaitersandcabmenmustbeimmense。Theywillbechargedthreetimestheordinarytariffinsteadofonlythedoublewhichisthestranger\'susualfateatthehandsofsimple-mindedforeigners。Thesatisfactionmustbecheap，however，atthatprice。
Evenourwisemenandsagesdonotseemtohaveescapedthecontagion。Oneseesprofessorsandclergymen(whooughttosetabetterexample)trailinghalfadozenlettersaftertheirnames，initialswhichtotheinitiateddoubtlessmeansomething，butwhicharealsointendedtofillthesoulsoftheignorantwithenvy。I
canrecallbutonecaseofaforeigndecorationbeingrefusedbyacompatriot。Hewasageniusandweallknowthatgeniusesarecrazy。ThisgentlemanhaddonesomethingparticularlygratifyingtoanEasternpotentate，whoinreturnofferedhimoneofhissecond-bestorders。Itwasatoncerefused。Whenurgedonhimasecondtimeourcountrymanlosthistemperandanswered，\"Ifyouwanttogiveittosomebody，presentittomyvalet。Heismostanxioustobedecorated。\"Anditwasdone!
Itdoesnotrequireadeeplymeditativemindtodiscoverthemotivesofambitiousstruggles。Thefirstandstrongestillusionofthehumanmindistobelievethatwearedifferentfromourfellows，andournaturalimpulseistotryandimpressthisbeliefuponothers。
Prideofbirthisbutoneofthemanifestationsoftheuniversalweakness-invariablytakingstrongerandstrongerholdofthepeople，whofromthemodestdimensionoftheirincome，orotheruntowardcircumstances，canfindnooutwardandvisibleformwithwhichtodazzletheworld。Youwillfindthatadesiretoshineisthesecretofmostofthetipsandpresentsthataregivenwhiletravellingorvisiting，fortheycanhardlybeattributedtopurespontaneousgenerosity。
Howmanypeopledoesonemeetwhotalkoftheirpoorandunsuccessfulrelativeswhileomittingtomentionrichandpowerfulconnections？Wearetoldthatfarfromblamingsuchatendencywearetoadmireit。Thatitisproperpridetoputone\'sbestfootforwardandkeepanoffendingmemberwelloutofsight，thatthemanwhowearsarosetteinthebutton-holeofhiscoatandhashalfthealphabetgallopingafterhisname，isanhonortohisfamily。
Farbeitfrommetoderidethisweaknessinothers，forinmyheartIampersuadedthatifIlivedinChina，nothingwouldpleasememorethantohavemycapadornedwithacoralbutton，whileiffatehadcastmylifeinthepleasantplacesofcentralAfrica，aringinmynosewoulddoubtlesshavefilledmysoulwithjoy。ThefactthatIsharethisweaknessdoesnot，however，preventmylaughingatsuchfollyinothers。
CHAPTER24-ChangingParisPARISisbeginningtoshowsignsofthecoming\"Exhibitionof1900，\"andisinmanywaysgoingthroughacuriousstageoftransformation，sociallyaswellasmaterially。ThePALAISDE
L\'INDUSTRIE，familiartoallvisitorshere，asthehomeoftheSALONS，theHorseShows，andathousandgayFETESandmerry-
makings，isbeingtorndowntomakewayforthenewavenueleading，withthebridgeAlexanderIII。，fromtheChampsElyseestotheEsplanadedesInvalides。ThisthoroughfarewiththegildeddomeofNapoleon\'stombtocloseitsperspectiveisintendedtobethefeatureofthecoming\"show。\"
Curiousironyofthingsinthisworld!ThePALAISDEL\'INDUSTRIE
wasintendedtobetheonepermanentbuildingoftheexhibitionof1854。Anold\"Journal\"Ioftenreadtellshowthewritersawthelonglineofgildedcoaches(borrowedfromVersaillesfortheoccasion)，eighthorsesapiece，ledbyfootmen-horsesandmenblazinginembroideredtrappings-leavetheTuileriesandproceedatawalktothegreatgatewayofthenowdisappearingpalace。
VictoriaandAlbertwhowereonanofficialvisittotheEmperorwerethefirsttoalight；thenEugenieintheradianceofherperfectbeautysteppedfromthecoach(sadomen!)thatfiftyyearsbeforehadtakenJosephineintearstoMalmaison。
ItmayinterestsomeladiestoknowhowanEmpresswasdressedonthatspringmorningforty-fouryearsago。Sheworerose-coloredsilkwithanover-dress(Ithinkthatiswhatitiscalled)ofblacklaceflounces，immensehoops，andablackCHANTILLYlaceshawl。Herhair，abrilliantgoldenauburn，wasdressedlowonthetemples，coveringtheears，andhungdownherbackinagoldnetalmosttoherwaist；attheextremebackofherheadwasplacedablackandrose-coloredbonnet；open\"flowing\"sleevesshowedherbarearms，one-buttoned，straw-coloredgloves，andrubybracelets；
shecarriedatinyrose-coloredparasolnotafootindiameter。
HowEngland\'sgreatsovereignwasdressedthewriterofthejournaldoesnotsowellremember，forinthosedaysEugeniewasthecynosureofalleyes，andpeoplerarelylookedatanythingelsewhentheycouldgetaglimpseofherlovelyface。
Itappears，however，thattheQueensportedanIndiashawl，hoops，andagreenbonnet，whichwasnotparticularlybecomingtoherredface。SheandNapoleonenteredthebuildingfirst；theEmpress(whowasindelicatehealth)wascarriedinanopenchair，withPrinceAlbertwalkingatherside，amarvellouslyhandsomecoupletofollowthetwodowdylittlesovereignswhoprecededthem。ThewriterhadbybriberysucceededingettingplacesinanENTRESOL
windowunderthearchway，andwasgreatlyimpressedtoseethosefourgreatoneslaughingandjokingtogetheroverEugenie\'stroubleingettingherhoopsintothenarrowchair!
Whatchangeshavecometothatlaughinggroup!Twoaredead，onedyinginexileanddisgrace；anditwouldbehardtofindinthetworheumaticoldladieswhomoneseespotteringabouttheRivieranow，anytraceofthosesmilingwives。InFranceitisasifatidalwavehadsweptoverNapoleon\'scourt。OnlytheoldpalacestoodseverelybackfromtheChampsElysees，asifguardingitssouvenirs。Thepickofthemasonhasbroughtdowntheproudgatewaywhichitsimperialbuilderfondlyimaginedwastolastforages。TheTuileriesprecededitintooblivion。TheAlphaandOmegaofthatgorgeouspageantofthefiftiesvanishedlikeamirage!
ItisnotherealoneonefindsParischanging。ArailwayisbeingbroughtalongthequaiswithitsdepotattheInvalides。AnotheristofinditsterminusoppositetheLouvre，wherethepicturesqueruinoftheCourdesCompteshasstoodhalf-hiddenbythetreessince1870。AlineofelectriccarscrossestheRondPoint，inspiteoftheoppositionofalltheneighborhood，anxioustokeep，atleastthatfineperspectivefreefromsuchdesecration。And，lastbutnotleast，thereiseveryprospectofanimmensesystemofelevatedrailwaysbeinginauguratedinconnectionwiththecomingworld\'sfair。ThedirectionofthiskindofimprovementisentirelyinthehandsoftheMunicipalCouncil，andthatbodyhasbecome(hereinParis)extremelyradical，nottosaycommunistic；
andtakespleasureinannoyingtheinhabitantsofthericherquartersofthecity，underpretextofimprovementsandfacilitiesofcirculation。
Itiseasytoseehowstrongthefeelingisagainstthearistocraticclass。Norisitmuchtobewonderedat!Thearistocracyseemtotrytomakethemselvesunpopular。Theydetesttherepublic，whichhasshornthemoftheirsplendor，anddoeverythingintheirpower(sociallyanddiplomaticallytheirpowerisstillgreat)tointerferewithandfrustratetheplansofthegovernment。OnlylastyeartheyseizedanopportunityatthefuneralsoftheDuchessed\'AlenconandtheDucd\'Aumaletomakearoyalistmanifestationofthemostpronouncedcharacter。TheyoungDuchessed\'Orleanswaspubliclyspokenofandtreatedasthe\"QueenofFrance；\"attheprivatereceptionsgivenduringherstayinParisthesameceremonialwasobservedasifshehadbeenreallyonthethrone。TheyoungDuke，herhusband，wasnotpresent，beinginexileasapretender，butarmorialbearingsofthe\"reigningfamily，\"astheirfollowersinsistoncallingthem，werehungaroundtheMadeleineandonthefuneral-carsofboththeillustriousdead。
Thegovernmentissingularlylenienttothearistocrats。Ifapoormancries\"LonglivetheCommune!\"inthestreet，heisarrested。
Thepolice，however，stoodquietlybyandletagroupoftheoldnobilityshout\"LonglivetheQueen!\"asthetraincontainingtheyoungDuchessed\'Orleansmovedoutofthestation。Thesecretofthisleniencytowardthe\"pretenders\"tothethrone，isthattheyareverylittlefeared。Ifitamusesasetofwealthypeopletoplayatholdingacourt，thestronggovernmentoftherepubliccaresnotonejot。TheOrleansfamilyhaveneverbeenpopularinFrance，andtheyoungpretender\'smarriagetoanAustrianArchduchesslastyearhasnotimprovedmatters。
ItisthefashionintheconservativeFaubourgSt。Germain，toridiculethePresident，hiswifeandtheirbourgeoissurroundings，asfortyyearsagotheparentsofthesearistocratsaffectedtodespisetheimperialPARVENUS。TheswellsamusedthemselvesduringtheofficialvisitoftheEmperorandEmpressofRussialastyear(whichwasgallandwormwoodtothem)byexaggeratingandrepeatingallthesmallslipsinetiquettethatthePresident，anintelligent，butsimple-manneredgentleman，wassupposedtohavemadeduringthesojournofhisimperialguests。
BothM。andMme。Faureareextremelypopularwiththepeople，andareheartilycheeredwhenevertheyareseeninpublic。ThePresidentisthedespairoftheloversofroutineandetiquette，walkinginandoutofhisPalaisoftheElysee，likeaprivateindividual，andbreakingallrulesandregulations。Heisfondofriding，andjogsofftotheBoisofamorningwithnoescort，andoftenofaneveningdropsinatthetheatresinacasualway。TheothernightattheFrancaishesuddenlyappearedintheFOYERDES
ARTISTES(Abeautifulgreenroom，hungwithhistoricalportraitsofgreatactorsandactresses，oneofthepridesofthetheatre)inthisinformalmanner。Mme。Bartet，whohappenedtobetherealoneatthetime，wassoimpressedatsuchanunprecedentedeventthatshefainted，andthePresidenthadtorunforwaterandhelpreviveher。ThenextdayhesentthegreatactressabeautifulvaseofSevreschina，fullofwater，insouvenir。
ToaloverofoldthingsandoldwaysanychangesintheParishehasknownandlovedareasadtrial。HenriDrumont，inhisdelightfulMONVIEUXPARIS，deploresthismodernmaniaforreformwhichhasdonesuchgoodworkinthenewquartersbutshould，hethinks，respectthehistoricstreetsandshadysquares。
Onenaturallyfeelsthatthesightsfamiliarinyouthlosebybeingtransformedanddoubtsthenecessityofsuchimprovements。
TheRomeofmychildhoodisnomore!HalfofCairowasruthlesslytransformedinsixty-fiveintoahideouscaricatureofmodernParis。Milanhasbeenremodelled，eachcitylosingincharmasitgainedinconvenience。
SofarParishasheldherown。Thespiritofthecityhasnotbeenlost，asintheothercapitals。ThefairmetropolisofFrance，inspiteofmanytransformations，stillholdsheradmirerswithadominatingsway。Shepoursoutforthemastrongelixirthatoncetastedtakestheflavoroutofexistenceinothercitiesandmakesheradorers，wheninexile，thirstforanotherdraughtofthesubtlenectar。
CHAPTER25-ContentmentAStheresultofcertainidealstandardsadoptedamonguswhenthiscountrywasstillinlongclothes，atimewhentheequalityofmanwasthenew\"fad\"ofmanynations，andtheprizesoflifefirstcamewithinthereachofthosefortunateorunscrupulousenoughtoseizethem，itbecamethefashion(andhasremainedsodowntoourday)toteacheverylittleboyattendingavillageschooltolookuponhimselfasapossiblefuturePresident，andtoassumethateverygirlwaspreparingherselfforthepositionoffirstladyintheland。Thisisverywellintheory，andpracticehasshownthat，asNapoleonsaid，\"Everyprivatemaycarryamarshal\'sbatoninhisknapsack。\"Alongsideofthegoodsuchincentivemayproduce，itisonlyfair，however，toconsideralsohowmuchharmmaylieinthiswayofpresentinglifetoachild\'smind。
AsafirstresultofsuchtalltalkingwefindinAmerica，morethaninanyothercountry，aninclinationamongallclassestoleavethesurroundingswheretheywerebornandbendtheirenergiestostrugglingoutofthepositioninlifeoccupiedbytheirparents。Therearenotwantingtheoristswhoholdthatthisisaqualityinanation，andthatitleadstogreatresults。A
propositionopentodiscussion。
Itisdoubtlesssatisfactorytodesignatefirstmagistrateswhohaveraisedthemselvesfromhumblebeginningstothatproudposition，andtherearetimeswhenitispropertorecallsuchachievementstotherisinggeneration。Butasyouthisproverbiallyover-confidentitmightalsobewelltopointout，withoutdangerofdiscouragingoursanguineyoungsters，thatforonewhohassucceeded，abouttenmillionconfidentAmericanyouths，fullofambitionandloftyaims，havebeenobligedtocontentthemselveswithbeinghonestmeninhumblepositions，evenastheirfathersbeforethem。Asadhumiliation，Igrantyou，foraself-
respectingcitizen，toendlifejustwherehisfatherdid；oftenthecase，nevertheless，inthishardworld，wheresomanyfinequalitiesgounappreciated，-nosocietieshavingasyetbeenformedtoseekout\"mute，ingloriousMiltons，\"andasktocrownthem!
