第9章

Inthefaceofthisplainfactisitnottime，fortheirownsake，thattheAustraliansshoulddroptheircryagainstyellowpeopleandinducetheirParliamenttoabolish，oratleasttomodify，theirimmigrationlawswithregardtotheyellowrace？ Australiansareanxioustoextendtheirtrade，andtheyhavesentcommercialcommissionerstoJapanandotherEasterncountrieswiththeviewtodevelopingandexpandingcommerce。Mr。J。B。Suttor，SpecialCommissionerofNewSouthWales，haspublishedthefollowingadvertisement: \"NEWSOUTHWALES。TheLandofRewardforCapitalCommerceandIndustry。 SpeciallysubsidizedsteamersnowgivingdirectservicebetweenSydney，THEPREMIERCOMMERCIALCENTEROFAUSTRALIA，ANDSHANGHAI。 ThusofferingspecialfacilitiesforCommerceandTourists。 NEWSOUTHWALESPRODUCTSARESTANDARDSOFEXCELLENCE。\" Commerceandfriendshipgotogether，buthowAustralianscanexpecttodeveloptradeinacountrywhosepeoplearenotallowedtocometovisithershoresevenforthepurposesoftrade，passesmycomprehension。Perhaps，havingheardsomuchoftheforgivingandmagnanimousspiritoftheChinese，AustraliansexpecttheChinesetogreetthemwithsmilesandtotradewiththem，whilebeingkickedinreturn。 Ibelieveinthedoctrineoftheuniversalbrotherhoodofmen。 Itiscontrarytothelaw(God)ofcreationthatsomepeopleshouldshutoutotherpeoplefromportionsoftheearthsolelyfrommotivesofselfishnessandjealousy；theinjurycausedbysuchselfishactswillsoonerorlaterreactonthedoers。\"Everymanishisownancestor。 Wearepreparingforthedaysthatcome，andwearewhatweareto-dayonaccountofwhathasgonebefore。\"Thedog-in-the-mangerpolicydevelopsdoggishinstinctsinthosewhopractiseit；and，afterall，civilizationwithoutkindnessandjusticeisnotworthhaving。 Inconclusion，IwilllettheEnglishpoet，WilliamWordsworth，state\"Nature\'scase\"。 Listentothesenoblelinesfromtheninthcantoofhis\"Excursion\"。 \"Alas!whatdiffersmorethanmanfromman，Andwhencethatdifference？Whencebutfromhimself？ ForseetheuniversalRaceendowedWiththesameuprightform。ThesunisfixedAndtheinfinitemagnificenceofheavenFixed，withinreachofeveryhumaneye； Thesleeplessoceanmurmursforallyears； ThevernalfieldinfusesfreshdelightIntoallhearts。Throughouttheworldofsense，Evenasanobjectissublimeorfair，ThatobjectislaidopentotheviewWithoutreserveorveil；andasapowerIssalutary，oraninfluencesweet，AreeachandallenabledtoperceiveThatpower，thatinfluence，byimpartiallaw，Giftsnoblerarevouchsafedaliketoall； Reason，and，withthatreason，smilesandtears； Imagination，freedominthewill； Consciencetoguideandcheck；anddeathtobeForetasted，immortalityconceivedByall——ablissfulimmortality，TothemwhoseholinessonearthshallmakeTheSpiritcapableofheaven，assured……ThesmokeascendsToHeavenaslightlyfromthecottagehearthAsfromthehaughtiestpalace。HewhosesoulPondersthistrueequality，maywalkThefieldsofearthwithgratitudeandhope； Yet，inthatmeditation，willhefindMotivetosaddergrief，aswehavefound； Lamentingancientvirtuesoverthrown，Andfortheinjusticegrieving，thathathmadeSowideadifferencebetweenmanandman。\" Chapter13。Dinners，Banquets，Etc。 Dinner，asweallknow，indicatesacertainhourandacertainhabitwhoseaimisthenourishmentofthebody，andadeliverancefromhunger； butinourmoderncivilizedlifeitpossessesotherpurposesalso。 Manisagregariousanimal，andwhenhetakeshisfoodhelikescompany； fromthispeculiaritytherehassprungupthecustomofdinnerparties。 Inattendingdinnerparties，however，theguestsasaruledonotseeksustenance，theyonlygotothemwhentheyhavenothingelsetodo，andmanyscarcelytouchthefoodthatislaidbeforethem。 Theirobjectistodohonortothehostandhostess，nottoeat，buttobeentertainedbypleasantandcongenialconversation。 Nevertheless，thehost，atwhoseinvitationthecompanyhasassembled，isexpectedtoprovideagreatabundanceandalargevarietyofsavorydishes，aswellasagoodsupplyofchoicewines。Fleshandwineareindispensable，eventhoughtheentertainerseschewbothintheirprivatelife，andmostoftheguestsdailyconsumetoomuchofeach。 Fewhavethecouragetopartwithconventionalpracticeswhenarrangingasocialfunction。 Americanchefsareexcellentcaterers，andwellknowhowtopleasethetastesoftheAmericanpeople。Theyconcentrateontheartofprovidingdaintydishes，andhumaningenuityisheavilytaxedbythemintheireffortstoinventnewgustatorydelicacies。 Thedisheswhichtheyplacebeforeeachguestaresonumerousthatevenagourmandmustleavesomeuntouched。Atafashionabledinnernoonecanpossiblytaste，muchlesseat，everythingthatisplacedbeforehim，yetthefoodisallsonicelycookedandservedinsoappetizingamanner，thatitisdifficulttoresistthetemptationatleasttosampleit； whenyouhavedonethis，however，youwillcontinueeatinguntilallhasbeenfinished，butyourstomachwillprobablybeasadsufferer，groaninggrievouslyonthefollowingdayonaccountofthefrolicofyourpalate。Thisill-matedpair，althoughbotharechieflyinterestedinfood，seldomseemtoagree。ImustnotomittomentionhoweverthatthenumberofcoursesservedatanAmericanmillionaire\'sdinnerisafteralllessnumerousthanthosefurnishedataChinesefeast。 WhenaChinesegentlemanaskshisfriendstodinewithhimthemenumayincludeanywherefromthirtytofiftyorahundredcourses； butmanyofthedishesareonlyintendedforshow。Theguestsarenotexpectedtoeateverythingonthetable，oreventotasteeverydelicacy，unless，indeed，theyspeciallydesiretodoso。Again，wedon\'teatsoheartilyasdotheAmericans，butcontentourselveswithoneortwomouthfulsfromeachsetofdishes，andallowappreciableintervalstoelapsebetweencourses，duringwhichwemakemerry，smoke，andotherwiseenjoythecompany。 ThisisadistinctadvantageinfavorofChina。 InEuropeandAmerica，dessertformsthelastcourseatdinner； inChinathisisservedfirst。Idonotknowwhichisthebetterway。 Chineseareeverreadytoacceptthebestfromeveryquarter，andsomanyofushaverecentlyadoptedtheWesternpracticeregardingdessert，whilestillretainingtheancientChinesecustom，sothatnowweeatsweetmeatsandfruitatthebeginning，duringdinner，andattheend。ThishappycombinationofEasternandWesternpracticesis，Isubmit，worthyofexpansionandextension。Ifitweretobecomeuniversalitwouldhelptodiscouragethepresentunwholesomehabit，foritisnothingmorethanahabit，ofdevouringflesh。 OneofthedishesindispensableatafashionableAmericandinneristheterrapin。Thosewhoeatthesethingssaythattheirfleshhasamostagreeableanddelicateflavor，andthattheirgelatinousskinnynecksandfinsaredelicious，butapparentlythemostpalatabletidbitspallthetasteintime，foritissaidthataboutfortyyearsagoterrapinsweresoabundantandcheapthatworkmenintheiragreementwiththeiremployersstipulatedthatterrapinshouldnotbesuppliedattheirdinnertablemorethanthreetimesaweek。Sincethenterrapinshavebecomesorarethatnostylishdinnerevertakesplacewithoutthisdish。 OystersareanotherWesternsinequanon，andarealwaysservedraw。 Iwonderhowmanyladiesandgentlemenwhoswallowthesemolluscawithsuchevidentrelishknowthattheyareveritablescavengers，whichpickupandswalloweverydirtythinginthewater。 Afriendofmineaftertakingafewofthemononeoccasion，hadtoleavethetableandgohome；hewasillafterwardforseveraldays。 Onecannotbetoocarefulastowhatoneeats。TheUnitedStateshasaPureFoodDepartment，butIthinkitmightlearnagreatdealthatitdoesnotknowifitweretosendacommissiontoChinatostudylifeintheBuddhistmonasteries，whereonlysanitary，healthfulfoodisconsumed。Itisalwaysasurprisetomethatpeoplearesoindifferenttothekindoffoodtheytake。Publichealthofficersareusefulofficials，butwhenwehavebecomemorecivilizedeachindividualwillbehisownhealthofficer。 Someofthewell-knownChinesedishesareveryrelishableandshouldnotbeoverlookedbychefsanddinnerhostesses。 Irefertothesharks\'fins，andbirds\'nest——theEasterncounterpartoftheWesternpiecederesistance——theterrapin。 Fromahygienicpointofviewsharks\'finsmaynotbeconsideredasverydesirable，seeingtheyarepartoftheshark，buttheyarecertainlynotworse，andareperhapsbetter，thanwhatiscalledthe\"highandtender\"pheasant，andotherfleshfoodswhichareconstantlyfoundonWesterndiningtables，andwhicharesoreadilyeatenbyconnoisseurs。Birds\'nestsoupisfarsuperiortoturtlesoup，andIhavetheopinionofanAmericanchemistwhoanalyzedit，thatitisinnocuousandminustheinjuriousuricacidgeneratedbyanimalflesh，thecauseofrheumaticandsimilarpainfulcomplaints。 The\"chopsuey\"suppliedintheChineserestaurantsinNewYork，Chicago，andotherplaces，seemstobeafavoritedishwiththeAmericanpublic。 Itshowsthesimilarityofourtastes，andencouragesmetoexpectthatsomeofmyrecommendationswillbeaccepted。 WillsomeoneinformmewhysomanyvarietiesofwinesarealwaysservedonAmericantables，andwhythesparklingchampagneisneveravoidable？ Wealthyfamilieswillspareneitherpainsnorexpensetospreadmostsumptuousdinners，andithasbeenreportedthatthecostofanentertainmentgivenbyonerichladyamountedtotwentythousandpoundssterling，although，asIhavesaid，eatingisthelastthingforwhichtheguestsassemble。 Idonotsupposethatmanywillagreewithme，butinmyopinionitwouldbemuchmoreagreeable，andimprovethegeneralconversation，ifalldrinksofanintoxicatingnaturewereabolishedfromthediningtable。 Itisgratifyingtoknowthattherearesomefamilies(maythenumberincreaseeveryday!)whereintoxicatingliquorsareneverseenontheirtables。 Thefirstinstanceofthissortthatcameundermynoticewasinthehomeofthatexcellentwoman，Mrs。M。F。Henderson，whoisanardentadvocateofdietreformandteetotalism。Mr。WilliamJenningsBryan，theSecretaryofState，hassetanobleexample，asfromnewspaperreportsitappearsthathegaveafarewelldinnertoAmbassadorBryce，withoutchampagneorotheralcoholicdrinks。HehasaloyalsupporterinShanghai，inthepersonoftheAmericanConsul-General，Dr。A。P。Wilder，who，tothegreatregretofeverybodywhoknowshiminthisport，isretiringfromtheserviceonaccountofill-health。Dr。Wilderisverypopularandfigureslargelyinthesociallifeofthecommunity，butDr。Wilderisastaunchopponentofalcohol，andthroughhisinfluencewinesatpublicdinnersarealwaystreatedasextras。 SolongastheliquortrafficissoextensivelyandprofitablycarriedoninEuropeandAmerica，andsolongastheconsumptionofalcoholissoenormous，solongwilltherebeadifferenceofopinionastoitsilleffects，butinthismatter，bymeansofitsStateProhibitionLaws，Americaissettinganexampletotheworld。Innoothercountryaretheresuchextensivetractswithoutalcoholasthe\"DryStates\"ofAmerica。 China，whoiswagingwaronopium，recognizesinthisfactakindred，activemoralforcewhichisabsentelsewhere，and，shakinghandswithhersisterrepublicacrosstheseas，hopesthatshewillsomedaybeasfreeofalcoholicpoisonsasChinaherselfhopestobeofopium。Everyvice，however，hasitsdefense。 SomeyearsagoImetafamousDutchartistinPeking，who，thoughstillintheprimeoflife，wasobligedtolayasidehisworkforafewdayseachmonth，duetoanoccasionalattackofrheumatism。 Ifoundhewasfondofhiscup，thoughIdidnotunderstandthathewasanimmoderatedrinker。Idiscoursedtohimsomewhatlengthilyabouttheevileffectsofdrink，andshowedhimthatunlesshewaswillingtogiveupallintoxicatingliquor，hisrheumatismwouldnevergivehimup。 Helistenedattentively，ponderedforafewminutes，andthengavethischaracteristicanswer:\"IadmitthesoundnessofyourargumentbutIenjoymyglassexceedingly；ifIweretofollowyouradviceIshouldbedeprivedofalotofpleasure。Indeed，Iwouldratherhavetherheumaticpains，whichdisappearaftertwoorthreedays，andcontinuetoenjoymyalcoholicdrinks，thanendurethemiseryofdoingwithoutthem。\"Iwarnedhimthatincourseoftimehisrheumatismwouldbelongerindurationandattackhimmorefrequently，ifhecontinuedtoignoreitswarningsandtoplaywithwhat，forhim，wascertainlypoison。Whenanyonehasahabit，beitinjuriousorotherwise，itisnoteasytopersuadehimtoabandonit。 \"TheAristocracyofHealth\"writtenbythetalentedMrs。Hendersonisanadmirablework。Iowemuchtoit。Thefactsandargumentsadducedagainsttobaccosmoking，strongdrinkandpoisonousfoods，aresetforthinsuchaclearandconvincingmanner，thatsoonafterreadingitIbecameateetotalerand\"sanitarian\"* andbeganatoncetoreapthebenefits。IfeltthatIoughtnottokeepsuchagoodthingtomyself，butthatIshouldpreachthedoctrinefarandwide。Isoonfound，however，thatitwasanimpossibletasktotrytosavemenfromthemselves，andIacquiredtheunenviablesobriquetof\"crank\"；butIwasnotdismayed。FrommynativefriendsIturnedtotheforeigncommunityinPeking，thinkingthatthelatterwouldpossessbetterjudgment，appreciateandbeconvertedtothesanitariandoctrine。AmongtheforeignersIappealedto，onewasadistinguisheddiplomat，andtheotheragentlemanintheChineseservice，withaworld-widereputation。 Bothwereelderlyandindelicatehealth，anditwasmyearnesthopethatbyreadingMrs。Henderson\'sbook，whichwassenttothem，theywouldbeconvincedoftheirerrorsandturnoveranewleaf—— Iwasdisappointed。Both，inreturningthebook，madesubstantiallythesameanswer。\"Mrs。Henderson\'sworkisveryinteresting，butatmytimeoflifeitisnotadvisabletochangelife-longhabits。 Ieatfleshmoderately，andneverdrinkmuchwine。\"Theybothseemedtooverlookthecrucialproblemastowhetherornotanimalfoodcontainshurtfulpoison。Ifitdoes，itshouldnotbeeatenatall。 Weneverhearofsensiblepeopletakingarsenic，strychnine，orotherpoisons，inmoderation，butmanyfoolishwomen，Ibelieve，takearsenictopaletheircomplexions，whileothers，bothmenandwomen，takestrychnineincombinationwithotherdrugs，asatonic，butwillanyonearguethatthesesubstancesarefoods？ Theruleofmoderationisapplicabletothingswhicharenutritious，oratleastharmless，butnottonoxiousfoods，howeversmallthequantityofpoisontheymaycontain。 Ihaveneverbeenasmokerandhavealwayseschewedtobacco，cigarettes，etc。；thoughforashortwhiletoobligefriendsIoccasionallyacceptedacigarette，nowIfirmlyrefuseeverythingofthesort—— Pleasantconversationatthedinnertableisalwaysenjoyable，andagoodtalkerisalwayswelcome，butIoftenwonderwhyAmericans，whogenerallyaresoquicktoimproveopportunity，andarenotedfortheirfreedomfromtraditionalconventionalisms，donotmakeamoresystematicuseofthegeneralloveofgoodconversation。 Anyonewhoisawittyconversationalist，withalargefundofanecdote，issuretobeaskedbyeverydinnerhosttohelptoentertaintheguests，butifthecompanybelargethefavoritecanbeenjoyedbyonlyafew，andthosewhoaretoofarawaytohear，orwhoarejustnearenoughtohearapartbutnotall，arelikelytofeelaggrieved。 Theycannothearwhatisamusingtherest，whilethetalkelsewherepreventstheirtalkingastheywouldiftherewerenointerruptions。 Araconteurgenerallymonopolizeshalfthecompany，andleavestheotherhalfoutinthecold。Thismightbeavoidediftalkerswereengagedtoentertainthewholecompanyduringdinner，aspianistsarenowsometimesengagedtoplaytothemafterdinner。 Or，theentertainmentmightbevariedbyengagingagoodprofessionalrecitertoreproduceliterarygems，comicorotherwise。Iamsuretheresultwouldbringmoregeneralsatisfactiontothegueststhanthepresentmethodofleavingthemtoentertainthemselves。 Chineseemploysinginggirls；Japanese，geishastotalk，singordance。 TheidealwouldhereagainseemtobeanamalgamationofEastandWest。 Itisdifficultforamixedcrowdtobealwaysagreeable，eveninthecongenialatmosphereofagoodfeast，unlesstheguestshavebeenselectedwithaviewtotheiropinionsratherthantotheirsocialstanding。Placeanumberofpeoplewhoseideasarecommon，withadifference，aroundawell-spreadtableandtherewillbenolackofgood，earnest，instructiveconversation。Mostmenandwomencantalkwelliftheyhavetherightsortoflisteners。 Ifthehearerisunsympatheticthebesttalkerbecomesdumb。 Hostswhorememberthiswillalwaysbeappreciated。 Asarule，adinnerconversationisseldomworthremembering，whichisapity。Man，themostsensibleofallanimals，cantalknonsensebetterthanalltherestofhistribe。PerhapstheflowofwordsmaybeassteadyastheeastwardflowoftheYang-tse-Kianginmyowncountry，butthememoryonlyretainsarecollectionofavague，undefined——what？ Theconversationliketheflavorsprovidedbythecookshasbeenevanescent。 Whyshouldnothostessesmakeasmuchefforttostimulatethemindsoftheirguestsastheydotogratifytheirpalates？ Whataboonitwouldbetomanyabashfulman，sittingnexttoaladywithwhomhehasnothingincommon，ifsomepublicentertainerduringthedinnerrelievedhimfromthenecessityofalwaysthinkingofwhatheshouldsaynext？Howmuchmorehecouldenjoythetastydisheshishostesshadprovided；andasforthelady—— whatanumberofsuppressedyawnsshemighthaveavoided。 Totakegreatpainsandspendlargesumstoprovidenicefoodforpeoplewhocannotenjoyitbecausetheyhavetotalktooneanother，seemsapity。Letonemantalktotherestandleavethemleisuretoeat，ismysuggestion。 Theopportunitiesaffordedatthediningtablemaybeturnedtomanyusefulpurposes。Ofcoursenotallareill-paired，andmanyyoungmenandladiesmeet，sitsidebyside，engageinafriendly，pleasantconversation，renewtheiracquaintanceatothertimes，andfinallymergetheirseparatepathsinthehighwayofmarriage。 PerhapsChinamightborrowaleaffromthiscustomandsubstitutedinnerpartiesforgo-betweens。Thedinner-partymethod，however，hasitsdangersaswellasitsadvantages——itdependsonthepointofview。 Personalpeculiaritiesanddefects，ifany，canbeeasilydetectedbythewayinwhichtheconversationiscarriedon，andthemannerinwhichthefoodishandled。Ithassometimeshappenedthattheaffiancedhavecancelledtheirengagementafteradinnerparty。Ontheotherhand，mattersofgreatimportcanoftenbearrangedatthedinnertablebetterthananywhereelse。Commercialtransactionsinvolvingmillionsofdollarshavefrequentlybeensettledwhilethepartiesweresippingchampagne； eveninternationalproblems，endinginelaboratenegotiationsandtreaties，havebeenfirstdiscussedwiththeafterdinnercigar。 Theatmosphereofgoodfriendshipandequality，engenderedbyawell-furnishedroom，goodcheer，pleasantcompany，andagenialhostess，disarmsprejudice，removesbarriers，meltsreserve，anddisposesonetoseethatthereisanothersidetoeveryquestion。 InChinawhenpeoplehavequarreledtheirfriendsgenerallyinvitethemtodinner，wherethemattersindisputeareamicablyarranged。 Thesearecalled\"peacedinners\"。IwouldrecommendthatasimilarexpedientshouldbeadoptedinAmerica；manyaknottypointcouldbedisposedofbyafriendlydiscussionatthedinnertable。 Ifinternationaldisputeswerealwaysarrangedinthiswaytherepresentativesofnationshavingcomplaintsagainsteachothermightmoreoftenthannowdiscoverunexpectedwaysofadjustingtheirdifferences。Whyshouldsuchmattersinvariablyberemandedtoformalconferencesandsetspeeches？Thepreliminaries，atleast，wouldprobablybebetterarrangedatdinnerpartiesandsocialfunctions。 Eatinghasalwaysbeenassociatedwithfriendship。\"Toeatsalt\"withanArabformsamostbindingcontract。Even\"theserpent\"inthebookofGenesiscommencedhisacquaintancewithEvebysuggestingameal。 ItalmostseemsasiftherewerecertainunwrittenlawsinAmericansociety，assigningcertainfunctionstocertaindaysintheweek。 IdonotbelieveAmericansaresuperstitious，butIfoundthatThursdaywasgreatlyinfavor。IrememberononeoccasionthatMrs。Grant，widowofthelatePresident，sentaninvitationtomywifeandmyselftodineatherhousesomeThursdayevening；thiswasthreeweeksinadvance，andwereadilyacceptedherinvitation。Afterouracceptance，aboutadozeninvitationscameforthatsameThursday，allofwhichwehad，ofcourse，todecline。Curiouslyenoughwereceivednoinvitationsforanyotherdayduringthatweek，andjustbeforethateventfulThursdaywereceivedaletterfromMrs。Grantcancellingtheinvitationonaccountofthedeathofoneofherrelations，sothatwehadtodineathomeafterall。 NowweChinesemakenosuchdistinctionsbetweendays。 Everydayoftheweekisequallygood；inorderhowevertoavoidclashingwithotherpeoples\'engagements，wegenerallyfixFridaysforourreceptionsordinners，butthereisnotamongtheChineseanentertainmentseasonasthereisinWashington，andothergreatcities，wheneverybodyingoodsocietyisbusyattendingorgiving\"AtHomes\"，teapartiesordinners。Ifrequentlyattended\"AtHomes\"orteapartiesinhalf-a-dozenplacesormoreinoneafternoon，butnoonecandineduringthesameeveninginmorethanoneplace。 InthisrespectAmericamightlearnalessonfromChina。Wecanaccepthalf-a-dozeninvitationstodinnerforoneevening；allwehavetodoistogotoeachplaceinturn，partakeofoneortwodishes，excuseourselvestothehostandthengosomewhereelse。 Bythismeansweavoidtheseemingrudenessofadeclination，andescapetheillfeelingswhicharefrequentlycreatedintheWestbyinvitationsbeingrefused。TheChinesemethodmakespossiblethecultivationofdemocraticfriendshipswithoutviolatingaristocraticinstincts，andforcandidatesatelectiontimesitwouldproveanagreeablemethodbywhichtomakenewfriends。 WearelessrigidthanAmericansaboutdroppinginandtakingamouthfulortwoatdinner，evenwithoutaspecialinvitation。*—— *Sincewritingtheabove，IhaveheardfromanAmericanladythat\"progressivedinners\"haverecentlybeenintroducedbytheidleandrichsetofyoungpeopleinNewYork。 Themodusoperandiisthatseveraldinnerswill，byarrangement，begivenonacertainday，andtheguestswillgotoeachhousealternately，eatingoneortwodishesonlyandremainingatthelasthouseforfruit。 Icanhardlybelievethis，butmyfriendassuresmeitisafact。 Itseemsthateatingisturnedintoplay，andtoappreciatethefun，Iwouldliketobeoneoftheactors—— Washingtonofficialsanddiplomatsusuallygivelargeentertainments。 Thearrangingoftheseatsatthedinnertableisadelicatematter，astheruleofprecedencehastobeobserved，andinattentiontotherule，byplacingawrongseatforagentlemanorladywhoisentitledtoahigherplace，maybeconsideredasaslight。Itisatsuchfunctionsasthesethattheprofessionalstory-teller，thegoodreciter，thecleverreader，theperfectentertainerwouldmakethenaturalselfishreserveofmankindlessapparent。 Fashionablepeople，whoentertainagooddeal，are，Iunderstand，oftenpuzzledtoknowhowtoprovidenovelties。InadditiontothesuggestionsIhavemade，mayIbepardonedanother？ TherearemanygoodcooksintheU。S。A。WhynotcommissionthesetosometimespreparearechercheChinesedinner，withthefoodservedinbowlsinsteadofplates，andwithchop-sticks(\"nimblelads\"wecallthem) forshow，butforksandspoonsforuse。IseenoreasonwhyChinesemealsshouldnotbecomefashionableinAmerica，asWesternpreparationsarefrequentlyfavoredbytheEliteinChina。OnemarkeddifferencebetweenthetwostylesisthemannerinwhichtheChinesepurveyorthrowshismostdelicateflavorsintostrongreliefbyprefacingitwithadietwhichisinsipid，harshorpungent。Contrastsaddzesttoeverythinghuman，beitdining，working，playing，orwooing。 Thissuggestsanoccasional，toothsomevegetarianrepastasaset-offtothesameroundoffish，flesh，fowlandwinefumes。 NopeopleintheworldcanpreparesuchdeliciousvegetarianbanquetsasaChineseculinaryartist。 AbanquetisamoreformalaffairthanthedinnerpartiesIhavebeendiscussing。Itisgenerallygottenuptocelebratesomespecialevent，suchastheconclusionofsomeimportantbusiness，orthebirthdayofsomenationalherolikeWashington，Lincoln，orGrant； ortheChambersofCommerceandAssociationsofdifferenttradesintheimportantcitiesofAmericawillholdtheirannualmeetingstohearareportanddiscussthebusinessestransactedduringtheyear，windingupbyholdingalargebanquet。 Thefoodsuppliedontheseoccasionsisbynomeanssuperiortothatgivenatprivatedinners，yeteverybodyisgladtobeinvited。 Itistheinevitablerulethatspeechesfollowtheeating，andpeopleattend，notforthesakeofthefood，butfortheprivilegeofhearingotherstalk。 Indeed，exceptfortheopportunityoftalking，orhearingotherstalk，peoplewouldprobablypreferaquietmealathome。 Speakerswithareputation，orators，statesmen，orforeigndiplomatsarefrequentlyinvited，andsometimeseminentmenfromothercountriesaretheguestsofhonor。Thesefunctionsoccureveryyear，andtheForeignMinisterswithwhosecountriestheAssociationshavecommercialrelationsaregenerallypresent。 Thetopicsdiscussedarenearlyalwaysthesame，anditisnoteasytospeakatoneofthesegatheringswithoutgoingoverthesamegroundasthatcoveredonpreviousoccasions。Irememberthatacolleagueofminewhowasacleverdiplomat，andforwhomIhadgreatrespect，oncewhenaskedtomakeanafter-dinnerspeech，reluctantlyroseand，asfarasIcanremember，spoketothefollowingeffect: \"Mr。Chairmanandgentlemen，IthankyourAssociationforinvitingmetothissplendidbanquet，butasIhadthehonorofspeakingatyourbanquetlastyearIhavenothingmoretoadd，andIreferyoutothatspeech；\" hethensatdown。Thenoveltyofhisremarks，ofcourse，wonhimapplause，butIshouldliketoknowwhatthecompanyreallythoughtofhim。 Formypart，Ipraisedhiswisdom，forhediplomaticallyrebukedallwhoseonlyinterestisthatwhichhasitsbirthwiththedayanddisappearswiththenight。 BanquetsanddinnersinAmerica，asinChina，are，however，oftenfarremovedfromfrivolities。Statesmensometimesselecttheseopportunitiesforapronouncementoftheirpolicy，eventhePresidentofthenationmayoccasionallythinkitadvisabletodothis。Speechesdeliveredonsuchoccasionsaregenerallyreportedinallthenewspapers，and，ofcourse，discussedbyallsortsofpeople，thewiseandtheotherwise，sothatthespeakerhastobeverycarefulastowhathesays。OurPresidentconfineshimselftothemoreformalprocedureofissuinganofficialmandate，thesameinkind，thoughdifferinginexpression，asanAmericanPresident\'sInauguralAddress，oroneofhisMessagestoCongress。 CommercialmendonotunderstandandareimpatientwiththerestrictionswhichhedgeroundaForeignMinister，andintheiranxietytogetspeakerstheywilllookanywhere。OnoneoccasionIreceivedaninvitationtogotoCanadatoattendabanquetataCommercialClubinoneoftheprincipalCanadiancities。Itwouldhavegivenmegreatpleasuretobeabletocomplywiththisrequest，asIhadnotthenvisitedthatcountry，but，contrarytoinclination，Ihadtodecline。IwasaccreditedasMinistertoWashington，anddidnotfeelatlibertytovisitanothercountrywithoutthespecialpermissionofmyHomeGovernment。 Publicspeaking，likeanyotherart，hastobecultivated。 Howeverscholarlyamanmaybe，andhowevercleverhemaybeinprivateconversation，whencalledupontospeakinpublichemaysometimesmakeaverypoorimpression。Ihaveknownhighlyplacedforeignofficials，withdeservedreputationsforwisdomandability，whowereshockinglypoorspeakersatbanquets。 Theywouldhesitateandalmoststammer，andwouldprovequiteincapableofexpressingtheirthoughtsinanysensibleorintelligentmanner。 Inthisrespect，personalobservationshaveconvincedmethatAmericans，asarule，arebetterspeakersthan……(Iwillnotmentionthenationalityinmymind，itmightgiveoffense。)AnAmerican，who，withoutpreviousnotice，iscalledupontospeak，generallyacquitshimselfcreditably。Heisnearlyalwayswitty，appreciative，andfrank。Thisisdue，Ibelieve，tothethorough-goingnatureofhiseducation:heistaughttobeself-confident，tobelieveinhisownabilitytocreate，toexpresshisopinionswithoutfear。 Adiffidentandretiringman，whosechiefcharacteristicisextrememodesty，isnotlikelytobeagoodspeaker；butAmericansarefreefromthisweakness。 Farbeitfrommetosuggestthattherearenogoodspeakersinothercountries。Americacanbynomeansclaimamonopolyoforators；