第8章

theactionwasexactlythatofonewhowassaying，\"Idon\'tparticularlywantitmyself，butI\'mnotgoingtoletyouhaveit。\" Presentlysomecacciatoricamewithapoodle-dog。Theyexplainedtousthatthoughthepoodlewas\"atrulyhuntingdog，\"hewouldnottouchthesparrows，whichtodohimjusticehedidnot。Therewasatamejayalso，likethesparrowsgoingaboutloose，but，likethem，awarewhenhewaswelloff。 Afterdinnerwewentuptothecastle，whichIhavenowvisitedoffandonformanyyears，andlikealwaysbetterandbettereachtimeIgothere。Iknownoplacecomparabletoitinitsownway。I knownoplacesopathetic，andyetsoimpressive，initsdecay。Itisnotaruin——allruinsarefrauds——itisonlydecayed。ItisakindofStokesayorIghthamMote，betterpreservedthanthefirst，andlessfurnishedthanthesecond，butonagranderscalethaneither，andsetinincomparablyfinersurroundings。Thepathtowardsitpassesthechurch，whichhasbeenspoiled。OutsidethistherearepartsofoldRomancolumnsfromsometemple，stuckintheground；insidearetwostatuescalledSt。PeterandSt。Paul，butevidentlyeffigiesofsomemagistratesintheRomantimes。Ifthetravellerlikestocontinuetheroadpastthechurchforthree- quartersofamileorso，hewillgetafineviewofthecastle，andifhegoesuptothelittlechapelofS。Quiricoonthetopofthehillonhisrighthand，hewilllookdownuponitanduponArona。Wewillsuppose，however，thathegoesstraightforthecastleitself；everymomentasheapproachesit，itwillseemfinerandfiner；presentlyhewillturnintoavineyardonhisleft，andatoncebegintoclimb。 Passingundertheoldgateway——withitsportcullisstillreadytobedropped，ifneedbe，andwiththeironplatesthatsheatheitpiercedwithbullets——asatS。Michele，thevisitorentersatonceuponaterracefromwhichthetwoforegoingillustrationsweretaken。Iknownothinglikethisterrace。Onasummer\'safternoonandeveningitisfullyshaded，thesunbeingbehindthecastle。 Thelakeandtownbelowarestillinsunlight。This，Ithink，isaboutthebesttimetoseethecastle——sayfromsixtoeightonaJulyevening，oratanyhouronagrayday。 CountBorromeo，towhomthecastlebelongs，allowsittobeshown，andvisitorsarenumerous。Thereisverylittlefurnitureinsidetherooms，andthelittlethereisisdecaying；thewallsarecoveredwithpictures，mostlycopies，andnoneofthemofanygreatmerit，buttheroomsthemselvesarelovely。HereisasketchoftheoneinwhichSanCarloBorromeowasborn，buttheoneonthefloorbeneathisbetterstill。Thewholeofthispartwasbuiltabouttheyear1350，andinside，wheretheweatherhasnotreached，thestonesareassharpasiftheyhadbeencutyesterday。ItwasinthegreatSalaofthiscastlethattherisingagainsttheAustriansin1848wasplanned；thenthereistheSaladiGiustizia，afineroom，withtheremainsoffrescoes；theroofandthetowershouldalsocertainlybevisited。Allissolidandreal，yetitislikeanItalianoperainactuallife。Lastly，thereisthekitchen，wherethewheelstillremainsinwhichaturnspitdogusedtobeputtoturnitandroastthemeat；butthisroomisnotshowntostrangers。 Theinnercourtofthecastleisasbeautifulastheouterone。 Throughtheopendooronecatchesglimpsesoftheterrace，andofthelakebeyondit。IknowIghtham，Hever，andStokesay，bothinsideandout，andIknowtheoutsideofLeeds；theseareallofthemexquisitelybeautiful，butneithertheynoranyothersuchplacethatIhaveeverseenpleasemeasmuchasthecastleofAngera。 WestayedtalkingtomyoldfriendSignorSignorelli，thecustodeofthecastle，andhisfamily，andsketchingupontheterraceuntilToniocametotellusthathisboatwasatthequaywaitingforus。 Tonioisnowaboutfourteenyearsold，butwasonlyfourwhenI firsthadthepleasureofmakinghisacquaintance。HeissontoGiovanni，orasheismorecommonlycalled，Giovannino，aboatmanofArona。Theboyisdeservedlyagreatfavourite，andisnowapadronewithaboatofhisown，fromwhichhecangetagoodliving。 Hepulledusacrossthewarmandsleepylake，sofarthemostbeautifulofalleventheItalianlakes；aswenearedArona，andthewallthatrunsalongthelakebecamemoreplain，IcouldnothelpthinkingofwhatGiovannihadtoldmeaboutitsomeyearsbefore，whenToniowaslyingcurledup，alittlemiteofanobject，inthebottomoftheboat。HewasextollingacertainfamilyofpeasantswholivenearthecastleofAngera，asbeingmodelsofeverythingafamilyoughttobe。\"There，\"hesaid，\"thechildrendonotspeakatmeal-times，thepolentaisputuponthetable，andeachtakesexactlywhatisgivenhim，eventhoughoneofthechildrenthinksanotherhasgotalargerhelpingthanhehas，hewilleathispieceinsilence。Mychildrenarenotlikethat；ifMariettathinksIrenehasabiggerpiecethanshehas，shewillleavetheroomandgotothewall。\" \"What，\"Iasked，\"doesshegotothewallfor？\" \"Oh!tocry；allthechildrengotothewalltocry。\" IthoughtofHezekiah。Thewallisthecryingplace，playing，loungingplace，andagreatdealmore，ofallthehousesinitsvicinity。Itisthecommondrawing-roomduringthesummermonths； iftheweatheristoosultry，aboatmanwillleavehisbedandfinishthenightonhisbackuponitsbroadcoping；wewholiveinacolderclimatecanhardlyunderstandhowgreatablankintheexistenceofthesepeoplethedestructionofthewallwouldbe。 WesoonreachedArona，andinafewminuteswereinthatkindandhospitablehousetheHoteld\'Italia，thanwhichnobetterhotelistobefoundinItaly。 AronaiscoolerthanAngera。Theproverbsays，\"Hewhowouldknowthepainsoftheinfernalregions，couldgotoAngerainthesummerandtoAronainthewinter。\"Theneighbourhoodisexquisite。 Unlessduringtheextremeheatofsummer，itisthebestplacetostayatontheLagoMaggiore。TheMonteMotteroneiswithinthecompassofasingleday\'sexcursion；thereisOrta，also，andVaralloeasilyaccessible，andanynumberofdrivesandnearerexcursionswhetherbyboatorcarriage。 OnedaywemadeToniotakeustoCastellettonearSestoCalende，tohearthebells。TheyringthebellsverybeautifullyatVogogna，but，unlessmyrecollectionofagoodmanyyearsagofailsme，atCastellettotheyringthembetterstill。 AtVogogna，whileweweregettingourbreakfast，weheardthebellsstrikeupasfollows，fromacampanileonthesideofthehill:- [Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven] Theydidthisbecauseababyhadjustdied，butweweretolditwasnothingtowhattheywouldhavedoneifithadbeenagrown-upperson。 AtCastellettoweweredisappointed；thebellsdidnotringthatmorning；wehintedatthepossibilityofpayingasmallfeetotheringerandgettinghimtoringthem，butweretoldthat\"lagente\" wouldnotatallapproveofthis，andsoIwasunabletotakedownthechimesatCastellettoasIhadintendedtodo。ImaysaythatIhadavisitfromsomeItalianfriendsafewyearsago，andfoundthemhardlylessdelightedwithourEnglishmodeofringingthanI hadbeenwiththeirs。ItwouldbeveryniceifwecouldringourbellssometimesintheEnglishandsometimesintheItalianway。 WhenIsaytheItalianway——Ishouldsaythatthecustomofringing，asabovedescribed，isnotacommonone——IhaveonlyhearditatVogognaandCastelletto，thoughdoubtlessitprevailselsewhere。 Weweretoldthatthepeopletakeagooddealofprideintheirbells，andthatonevillagewillbejealousofanother，andconsideritselfmoreorlessinsultedifthebellsofthatothercanbeheardmoreplainlythanitsowncanbeheardbackagain。 TherearetwovillagesintheBrianzacalledBalzanoandCremella； thedisputebetweenthesegrewsohotthateachofthemchangedtheirbellsthreetimes，soastotryandbeheardtheloudest。I believeanhonourablecompromisewasintheendarrivedat。 InotherrespectsCastellettoisaquiet，sleepylittleplace。TheTicinoflowsthroughitjustafterleavingthelake。Itisverywidehere，andwhenfloodedmustcarrydownanenormousquantityofwater。Bargesgodownitatalltimes，buttheriverisdifficultofnavigationandrequiresskilfulpilots。Thesepilotsarewellpaid，andTonioseemedtohaveagreatrespectforthem。TheviewsofMonteRosaaresuperb。 OneofthegreatadvantagesofArona，asofMendrisio，isthatitcommandssuchanumberofotherplaces。ThereisrailtoMilan，andagaintoNovara，andeachstationonthewayisasub-centre； therearealsothesteamersonthelake，andthereisnotavillageatwhichtheystopwhichwillnotrepayexamination，andwhichisnotinitsturnasub-centre。InEnglandIhavefoundbyexperiencethatthereisnothingforitbuttoexamineeveryvillageandtownwithineasyrailwaydistance；nobooksareofmuchuse:oneneverknowsthatsomethinggoodisnotgoingtobesprunguponone，andfewindeedaretheplaceswherethereisnooldpublic-house，oroverhangingcottage，orfarmhouseandbarn，orbitofDeHooghe-likeentrywhich，ifonehadtwoorthreelives，onewouldnotwillinglyleaveunpainted。ItisjustthesameinNorthItaly；thereisnotavillagewhichcanbepassedoverwithalightheart。 CHAPTERXXIV——LocarnoWewereattractedtoLocarnobytheapproachingfetesinhonourofthefourthcentenaryoftheapparitionoftheVirginMarytoFraBartolomeodaIvrea，whofoundedthesanctuaryinconsequence。 Theprogrammeannouncedthatthefestivitieswouldbeginon，Saturday，at3。30P。M。，withthecarryingofthesacredimage(sacrosimulacro)oftheVirginfromtheMadonnadelSassotothecollegiatechurchofS。Antonio。Therewouldthenbeabenedictionandcelebrationoftheholycommunion。Ateighto\'clockthereweretobeilluminations，fireworks，balloons，&c。，atthesanctuaryandtheadjacentpremises。 OnSundayathalf-pastninetherewastobemassatthechurchofS。Antonio，withahomilybyMonsignorPaoloAngeloBallerini，PatriarchofAlexandriainpartibus，andblessingofthecrownsentbyPopeLeoXIIIfortheoccasion。S。AntonioisthechurchtheroofofwhichfellinduringserviceoneSundayin1865，throughtheweightofthesnow，killingsixtypeople。Athalf-pastthreeagrandprocessionwouldconveytheHolyImagetoaprettytemplewhichhadbeenerectedinthemarket-place。TheimagewasthentobecrownedbythePatriarch，carriedroundthetowninprocession，andreturnedtothechurchofS。Antonio。Ateighto\'clockthereweretobefireworksneartheport；agrandilluminationofatriumphalarch，anilluminationofthesanctuaryandchapelswithBengallights，andanartificialapparitionoftheMadonna(ApparizioneartificialedellaBeataVerginecolBambino)abovethechurchupontheSacroMonte。NextdaytheHolyImagewastobecarriedbackfromthechurchofS。Antoniotoitsnormalresting- placeatthesanctuary。Wewantedtoseeallthis，butitwastheartificialapparitionoftheMadonnathatmostattractedus。 Locarnois，aseveryoneknows，abeautifultown。BoththeHotelLocarnoandtheHoteldellaCoronaaregood，butthelatteris，I believe，thecheaper。AtthecastellothereisafrescooftheMadonna，ascribed，Ishouldthinkrightly，toBernardinoLuini，andatthecemeteryoutsidethetowntherearesomeoldfrescoesofthesecondhalfofthefifteenthcentury，inaruinousstate，butinteresting。IfIrememberrightlythereareseveraldatesonthem，averaging1475-80。TheymighteasilyhavebeendonebythesamemanwhodidthefrescoesatMesocco，butIprefertheselast。 Thegreatfeature，however，ofLocarnoistheSacroMontewhichrisesaboveit。Fromthewoodenbridgewhichcrossesthestreamjustbeforeenteringuponthesacredprecincts，thechurchandchapelsandroadarrangethemselvesasonp。269。 Onthewayup，keepingtothesteeperandabrupterroute，onecatchessightofthemonks\'garden——alittleparadisewithvines，beehives，onions，lettuces，cabbages，marigoldstocolourtherisottowith，andalittleplotofgreatluxurianttobaccoplants。 Amongstthefoliagemaybenowandagainseentheburlyfigureofamonkwithastrawhaton。ThebestviewofthesanctuaryfromaboveistheonewhichIgiveonp。270。 Thechurchitselfisnotremarkable，butitcontainsthebestcollectionofvotivepicturesthatIknowinanychurch，unlesstheoneatOropabeexcepted；thereisalsoamodernItalian\"ReturnfromtheCross\"byCiseri，whichisverymuchadmired，butwithwhichIhavemyselfnosympathywhatever。ItisanAcademypicture。 Thecloisterlookingoverthelakeisverybeautiful。Inthelittlecourtdownbelow——whichalsoisofgreatbeauty——thereisachapelcontainingarepresentationoftheLastSupperinlife-sizedcolouredstatuesasatVarallo，whichhasagooddealoffeeling，andafresco(？)behinditwhichoughttobeexamined，butthechapelissodarkthatthisiseasiersaidthandone。Thereisalsoafrescodownbelowinthechapelwherethefounderofthesanctuaryisburiedwhichshouldnotbepassedover。Itisdated1522，andisLuinesqueincharacter。WhenIwaslastthere，however，itwashardlypossibletoseeanything，foreverythingwasbeingturnedtopsy-turvybythearrangementswhichwerebeingmadefortheapproachingfetes。Thesewereverygayandpretty；theymusthavecostagreatdealofmoney，andIwastoldthatthemunicipalityinitscollectivecapacitywasthoughtmean，becauseithadrefusedtocontributemorethan100francs，or4poundssterling。Itdoesseemratherasmallsumcertainly。 OntheafternoonofFridaythe13thofAugustthePatriarchMonsignorBalleriniwastoarrivebythethreeo\'clockboat，andtherewasacrowdtowelcomehim。ThemusicofLocarnowasonthequayplayingaselection，notfrom\"MadameAngot\"itself，butfromsomethingverylikeit——light，gay，sparklingoperabouffe——towelcomehim。IfeltasIhaddonewhenIfoundthematchboxinthesanctuarybedroomatGraglia:notthatImindeditmyself，butasbeingalittleunhappylesttheBishopmightnotquitelikeit。 Idonotseehowwecouldwelcomeabishop——wewillsaytoaconfirmation——withabandofmusicatall。FancyabrassbandofsometwentyorthirtyrangedroundthelandingstageatGravesendtowelcometheBishopofLondon，andfancytheirplayingwewillsay\"ThetwoObadiahs，\"orthathorridsongabouttheswinggoingalittlebithigher!TheBishopwouldbeverymuchoffended。Hewouldnotgoamusicalinchbeyondthemarchin\"LeProphete，\"nor，willingly，beyondthemarchin\"Athalie。\"MonsignorBallerini，however，neverturnedahair；hebowedrepeatedlytoallroundhim，anddroveoffinacarriageandpair，apparentlymuchpleasedwithhisreception。WeProtestantsdonotunderstand，nortakeanyverygreatpainstounderstand，theChurchofRome。Ifwedid，weshouldfindittobeinmanyrespectsasmuchinadvanceofusasitisbehindusinothers。 Onethingmadeanimpressionuponmewhichhauntedmeallthetime。 Oneveryimportantspacetherewereadvertisementsoftheprogramme，thesubstanceofwhichIhavealreadygiven。Buthardly，ifatalllessnoticeable，weretwootherswhichroseupirrepressibleuponeveryprominentspace，searchingallplaceswithasubtlepenetrativepoweragainstwhichprecautionswerepowerless。TheseadvertisementswerenotinItalianbutinEnglish，neverthelesstheywereneitherofthemEnglish——butboth，Ibelieve，American。TheonewasthatoftheRichmondGemcigarette，withthelargeillustrationrepresentingamaninahatsmoking，sofamiliartoushereinLondon。TheotherwasthatofWheeler&Wilson\'ssewingmachines。 AsthePatriarchdroveoffinthecarriagethemaninthehatsmokingtheRichmondGemcigaretteleeredathim，andthewomanworkingWheeler&Wilson\'ssewingmachinesewedathim。Duringtheilluminationstheunwontedlightthrewitsglareupontheeffigiesofsaintsandangels，butitilluminedalsothemanintheblackfelthatandthewomanwiththesewingmachine；evenduringtheartificialapparitionoftheVirginMaryherselfuponthehillbehindthetown，themoretheyletofffireworksthemoreclearlythemaninthehatcameoutuponthewallsroundthemarket-place，andtheblandimperturbablewomanworkingathersewingmachine。I thoughttomyselfthatwhenthemanwiththehatappearedinthepiazzatheMadonnawoulderelongceasetoappearonthehill。 Lateron，passingthroughthetownalone，whenthepeoplehadgonetorest，Isawmanyofthemlyingonthepavementunderthearchesfastasleep。Abrilliantmoonilluminatedthemarket-place；therewasapleasantsoundoffallingwaterfromthefountain；thelakewasbathedinsplendour，savewhereittookthereflectionofthemountains——sopeacefulandquietwasthenightthattherewashardlyarustleintheleavesoftheaspens。Butwhetherinmoonlightorinshadow，thebusypersistentvibrationsthatriseinAnglo-Saxonbrainswereradiatingfromeverywall，andthemanintheblackfelthatandtheblandladywiththesewingmachinewerethere——lyinginwait，asacatoveramouse\'shole，toinsinuatethemselvesintotheheartsofthepeoplesosoonastheyshouldwake。 Greatnumberscametothefestivities。TherewerespecialtrainsfromBiascaandallintermediatestations，andspecialboats。Andtheuglyflat-nosedpeoplecamefromtheValVerzasca，andthebeautifulpeoplecamefromtheValOnsernoneandtheValMaggia，andIsawAnna，thecurate\'shousekeeper，fromMesocco，andtheoldfrescopainterwhotoldmeheshouldliketopaymeavisit，andsuggestedfiveo\'clockinthemorningasthemostappropriateandconvenienttime。Thegreatprocessioncontainedsevenoreighthundredpeople。FromthebalconyoftheHoteldellaCoronaI countedaswellasIcouldandobtainedthefollowingresult:- Women120 Menwithwhiteshirtsandredcapes85 Menwithwhiteshirtsandnocapes(？) ThemusicfromIntra30 Menwithwhiteshirtsandbluecapes25 Menwithwhiteshirtsandnocapes25 Menwithwhiteshirtsandgreencapes12 Menwithwhiteshirtsandnocapes36 ThemusicofLocarno30 Girlsinblue，pink，whiteandyellow，red，white50 Choristers3 Monks6 Priests66 Canons12 HisExcellencyPaoloAngeloBallerini，PatriarchofAlexandriainEgypt，escortedbythefiremen，andhisprivatecortegeofabout2025 Governmentushers(？) TheGrandCouncil，escortedby22 soldiersand6policemen28 Theclergywithoutorders30 583 Intheevening，there，sureenough，theapparitionoftheBlessedVirginwas。ThechurchoftheMadonnawasunilluminatedandallindarkness，whenonasuddenitsprangoutintoablaze，andagreattransparencyoftheVirginandchildwaslitupfrombehind。Thenthepeoplesaid，\"Ohbel!\" Iwasmyselfalittledisappointed。Itwasnotagoodapparition，andIthinktheeffectwouldhavebeenbetterifithadbeencarriedupbyasmallballoonintothesky。Itmighteasilyhavebeenarrangedsothatthelightbehindthetransparencyshoulddieoutbeforetheapparitionmustfallagain，andalsothatthelightinsidethetransparencyshouldnotbereflectedupontheballoonthatliftedit；thewhole，therefore，wouldappeartorisefromitsowninherentbuoyancy。IamconfidentitwouldhavebeenarrangedinthiswayifthethinghadbeeninthehandsoftheCrystalPalacepeople。 ThereisafineoldbasilicatechurchdedicatedtoS。VittoreatthenorthendofLocarno。Itisthemotherchurchofthesepartsanddatesfromtheeighthorninthcentury。Thefrescoesinsidetheapsewereoncefine，buthavebeenrepaintedandspoiled。Thetowerismuchlater，butisimpressive。Itwasbegunin1524andleftincompletein1527，probablyowingtothehighpriceofprovisionswhichiscommemoratedinthefollowingwordswrittenonastoneatthetopofthetowerinside1527 Furm。[fromento——corn]costlib。6。 Segale[barley]lib。5。 Milio[millet]lib。4。 Isupposetheseweresomethinglikefamineprices；atanyrate，aworkmanwrotethisuponthetowerandthetowerstopped。 CHAPTERXXV——FusioWeleftLocarnobytheconveyancewhichleaveseverydayatfouro\'clockforBignasco，arideofaboutfourhours。ThePonteBrolla，acoupleofmilesoutofLocarno，isremarkable，andtheroadisthroughout(asamatterofcourse)good。Isatnextanoldpriest，anexcellentkindlyman，whotalkedfreelywithme，andscoldedmeroundlyforbeingaProtestantmorethanonce。 HeseemedmuchsurprisedwhenIdiscardedreasonasthefoundationofourbelief。HehadmadeuphismindthatallProtestantsbasedtheirconvictionsuponreason，andwasnotpreparedtohearmegoheartilywithhimindeclaringthefoundationofanydurablesystemtolieinfaith。When，however，itcametorequiringmetohavefaithinwhatseemedgoodtohimandhisfriends，ratherthantomeandmine，wedidnotagreesowell。Hethenbegantoshakedeathatme；ImethimwithareflectionthatIhaveneverseeninprint，thoughitissoobviousthatitmusthaveoccurredtoeachoneofmyreaders。Isaidthateverymanisanimmortaltohimself:heonlydiesasfarasothersareconcerned；tohimselfhecannot，byanyconceivablepossibility，doso。ForhowcanheknowthatheisdeaduntilheISdead？AndwhenheISdead，howcanheknowthatheisdead？Ifhedoes，itisanabuseoftermstosaythatheisdead。Amancanknownomoreabouttheendofhislifethanhedidaboutthebeginning。Themosthorribleandloatheddeathstillresolvesitselfintobeingbadlyfrightened，andnotalittlehurttowardstheendofone\'slife，butitcannevercometobeingunbearablyhurtforlongtogether。Besides，weareatalltimes，evenduringlife，deadanddyingtobyfarthegreaterpartofourpastselves。Whatwecalldyingisonlydyingtothebalance，orresiduum。Thismadethepriestangry。Hefoldedhisarmsandsaid，\"Basta，basta，\"nordidhespeaktomeagain。ItisbecauseInoticedtheeffectitproduceduponmyfellow-passengerthatI introduceithere。 BignascoisattheconfluenceofthetwomainbranchesoftheMaggia。ThegreaterpartoftherivercomesdownfromtheglacierofBasodino，whichcannotbeseenfromBignasco；IknownothingofthisvalleybeyondhavingseentheglacierfromthetopofthepassbetweenFusioandDalpe。ThesmallerhalfoftherivercomesdownfromFusio，thevalleyofSambucco，andthelakeofNaret。TheaccommodationatBignascoisquiteenoughforabachelor；thepeoplearegood，buttheinnishomely。FromBignascotheroadascendsrapidlytoPeccia，avillagewhichhassufferedterriblyfrominundations，andfromPecciaitascendsmorerapidlystill—— FusiobeingreachedinaboutthreehoursfromBignasco。ThereisanexcellentinnatFusiokeptbySignorDazio，towhoseenergytheadmirablemountainroadfromPecciaismainlydue。Ontherightjustbeforehecrossesthebridge，thetravellerwillnotethefrescooftheCrucifixion，whichIhavementionedatpage140。 Fusioisover4200feetabovethelevelofthesea。Idonotknowwhereinitspeculiarcharmlies，butitisthebestofallthevillagesofakindredcharacterthatIknow。Belowisasketchofitasitappearsfromthecemetery。 Thereisanothergoodviewfrombehindthevillage；atsunsetthissecondviewbecomesremarkablyfine。Thehousesareindeepcoolshadow，butthemountainsbehindtaketheeveningsun，andaresometimesofanincrediblesplendour。Itisfinetowatchtheshadowscreepingupthem，andthecolourthatremainsgrowingricherandricheruntilthewholeisextinguished；thisview，however，Iamunabletogive。 IholdSignorDazioofFusiosomuchasoneofmymostparticularandvaluedfriends，andIhavesuchspecialaffectionforFusioitself，thatthereadermustbearinmindthatheisreadinganaccountgivenbyapartialwitness。Nevertheless，allprivatepreferencesapart，IthinkhewillfindFusioahardplacetobeat。 AttheendofJuneandinJulytheflowersareattheirbest，andtheyaremorevariedandbeautifulthananywhereelseIknow。AttheveryendofJulyandthebeginningofAugustthepeoplecuttheirhay，andthenforawhilethegloryoftheplaceisgone，butbytheendofAugustorthebeginningofSeptemberthegrasshasgrownlongenoughtore-covertheslopeswithavelvetyverdure，andthoughtheflowersareshorn，yetsotheyarefromotherplacesalso。 Therearemanywalksintheneighbourhoodforthosewhodonotmindmountainpaths。ThemostbeautifulofthemallistothevalleyofSambucco，theupperendwhichisnotmorethanhalf-an-hourfromSignorDazio\'shotel。Forsometimeonekeepstothepaththroughthewoodedgorge，andwiththeriverfoamingfarbelow；inearlymorningwhilethispathisinshade，or，again，aftersunset，itisoneofthemostbeautifulofitskindthatIknow。Afterawhileagateisreached，andanopenuplandvalleyisenteredupon—— evidentlyanoldlakefilledup，andneitherverybroadnorverylong，butgrassedallover，andwiththeriverwindingthroughitlikeanEnglishbrook。ThisisthevalleyofSambucco。Therearetwocollectionsofstalleforthecattle，ormonti——oneatthenearerendandtheotheratthefarther。 Thefloorofthevalleycanhardlybelessthan5000feetabovethesea。IshallneverforgetthepleasurewithwhichIfirstcameuponit。Ihadlongwantedanidealuplandvalley；asageneralrulehighvalleysaretoonarrow，andhavelittleornolevelground。IftheyhaveanyatallthereoftenistoomuchaswiththeonewhereAndermattandHospenthalare——whichwouldinsomerespectsdoverywell——andtoomuchcultivated，anddonotshowtheirheight。AnuplandvalleyshouldfirstofallbeinanItalian-speakingcountry；thenitshouldhaveasmooth，grassy，perfectlylevelfloorofsayneithermuchmorenorlessthanahundredandfiftyyardsinbreadthandhalf-a-mileinlength。A smallrivershouldgobabblingthroughitwithoccasionalsmoothparts，soastotakethereflectionsofthesurroundingmountains。 Itshouldhavethreeorfourfinelarchesorpinesscatteredaboutithereandthere，butnotmore。Itshouldbecompletelyland- locked，andthereshouldbenothinginthewayofhumanhandiworksaveafewchalets，orasmallchapelandabridge，butnotilledlandwhatever。Hereoveninsummertheeveningairwillbecrisp，andthedewwillformassoonasthesungoesoff；butthemountainsatoneendofitwillkeepthelastraysofthesun。Itisthenthevalleyisatitsbest，especiallyifthegoatsandcattlearecomingtogethertobemilked。 ThevalleyofSambuccohasallthisandagreatdealmore，tosaynothingofthefactthatthereareexcellenttroutinit。Ihaveshownittofriendsatdifferenttimes，andtheyhaveallagreedwithmethatforavalleyneithertoohighnortoolow，nortoobignortoolittle，thevalleyofSambuccoisoneofthebestthatanyofusknowof——Imeantolookatandenjoy，forIsupposeasregardspaintingitishopeless。Ithinkitcanbewellrenderedbythefollowingpieceofmusicasbyanythingelse:-{33} [Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven] OnedaySignorDaziobroughtusinachamoisfoot。Heexplainedtousthatchamoiswerenowinseason，butthatevenwhentheywerenot，theyweresometimestobehad，inasmuchastheyoccasionallyfellfromtherocksandgotkilled。Aswelookedatitwecouldnothelpreflectingthat，wonderfulastheprovisionsofanimalandvegetableorganismsoftenare，themarvelsofadaptationaresometimesalmostexceededbythefeatswhichananimalwillperformwithaverysimpleandevenclumsyinstrumentifitknowshowtouseit。Achamoisfootisasmoothandslipperything，suchasnorespectablebootmakerwoulddreamofofferingtoamountaineer: thereisnotanailinit，norevenanapologyforanail；thesurefootednessofitsownerisanassumptiononly——apieceoffaithorimpudencewhichfulfilsitself。Ifsomeotheranimalweretoinducethechamoistobelievethatitshouldattheleasthavefeetwithsuckerstothem，likeafly，beforeventuringinsuchbreakneckplaces，orifbyanymeansitcouldgettoknowhowbadafootitreallyhas，therewouldsoonbenomorechamois。Thechamoiscontinuestoexistthroughitsabsoluterefusaltohearreasonuponthematter。Butthewholequestionisoneofextremeintricacy；allweknowisthatsomeanimalsandplants，likesomemen，devotegreatpainstotheperfectionofthemechanismwithwhichtheywishtowork，whileothersratherscornappliances，andconcentratetheirattentionupontheskilfuluseofwhatevertheyhappentohave。Ithink，however，thatintheclumsinessofthechamoisfootmustlietheexplanationofthefactthatsometimeswhenchamoisareoutofseason，theydoneverthelessactuallytumbleofftherocksandgetkilled；beingkilled，ofcourseitisonlynaturalthattheyshouldsometimesbefound，andiffound，beeaten；buttheyarenotgoodformuch。 Afteradayortwo\'sstayinthisdelightfulplace，weleftatsixo\'clockonebrilliantmorninginSeptemberforDalpeandFaido，accompaniedbytheexcellentSignorGuglielmoniasguide。TherearetwomainpassesfromFusiointotheValLeventina——theonebytheSasselloGrandetoNanteandAirolo，andtheotherbytheAlpediCampolungotoDalpe。Neithershouldbeattemptedbystrangerswithoutaguide，thoughneitherofthempresentsthesmallestdifficulty。ThereisathirdandlongerpassbytheLagodiNarettoBedretto，butIhaveneverbeenoverthis。Theothertwoarebothgood；onthewhole，however，IthinkIpreferthesecond。 SignorGuglielmoniledusoverthefreshestgrassyslopesconceivable——slopesthatfourorfiveweeksearlierhadbeengaywithtigerandTurk\'s-caplilies，andtheflauntingarnica，andeveryflowerthatlikesmountaincompany。Afterathreehours\' walkwereachedthetopofthepass，fromwhenceontheonehandonecanseetheBasodinoglacier，andontheotherthegreatRheinwaldglaciersaboveOlivone。OthersmallglaciersshowinvalleysnearBiascawhichIknownothingabout，andwhichIimaginetobealmostaterraincognita，excepttotheinhabitantsofsuchvillagesasMalvagliaintheValBlenio。 Whennearthetopofthepassweheardthewhistleofamarmot。 Guglielmonitoldushehadatameoneoncewhichwasveryfondofhim。Itsleptallthewinter，butturnedroundonceafortnighttoavoidlyingtoolongupononeside。Whenitwokeupfromitswintersleepitnolongerrecognisedhim，butbithimsavagelyrightthroughthefinger；byandbyitsrecollectionreturnedtoit，anditapologised。 Fromthesummit，whichisabout7600feetabovethesea，thepathdescendsovertheroughestgroundthatistobefoundonthewholeroute。Heretherearegoodspecimensofasbestostobepickedupabundantly，andtherocksarefullofgarnets；afteraboutsixorsevenhundredfeettheAlpediCampolungoisreached，andthisagainisanespeciallyfavouriteplacewithme。Itisanoldlakefilledup，surroundedbypeaksandprecipiceswheresomesnowrestsalltheyearround，andtraversedbyastream。Here，justaswehaddonelunching，wewerejoinedbyafamilyofknife-grinders，whowerealsocrossingfromtheValMaggiatotheValLeventina。 Wehadeatenallwehadwithusexceptourbread；thisGuglielmonigavetooneoftheboys，whoseemedasmuchpleasedwithitasifithadbeencake。ThenaftertakingalookattheLagodiTremorgio，abeautifullakesomehundredsoffeetbelow，wewentontotheAlpediCadonighinowhereourguideleftus。 Atthispointpinesbegin，andsoonthepathentersthem；afterawhilewecatchsightofPrato，andeventuallycomedownuponDalpe。 InanotherhourandaquarterFaidoisreached。ThedescenttoFaidofromthesummitofthepassismuchgreaterthantheascentfromFusio，forFaidoisnotmorethan2300feetabovethesea，whereas，asIhavesaid，Fusioisover4200feet。ThedescentfromthetopofthepasstoFaidoisabout5300feet，whiletoFusioitisonly3400。Thereader，therefore，willseethathehadbettergofromFusiotoFaido，andnotviceversa，unlessheisagoodwalker。 FromFaidowereturnedhome。WelookedatnothingbetweenthetopoftheSt。GothardPassandBoulogne，nordidweagainbegintotakeanyinterestinlifetillwesawthescience-ridden，art- ridden，culture-ridden，afternoon-tea-riddencliffsofOldEnglandriseuponthehorizon。 APPENDIXA——WednesburyCocking(Seep。55) Iknownothingofthedateofthisremarkableballad，orthesourcefromwhichitcomes。Ihaveheardonewhoshouldknowsay，thatwhenhewasaboyatShrewsburyschoolitwasdoneintoGreekhexameters，thelines(withavariousreadinginthem): \"Thecolliersandnailersleftwork，AndalltooldScroggins\'wentjogging；\" beingtranslated: [Greektext] Ihavebeenatsomepainstofindoutmoreaboutthistranslation，buthavefailedtodoso。Theballaditselfisasfollows: AtWednesburytherewasacocking，AmatchbetweenNewtonandScroggins； Thecolliersandnailersleftwork，AndalltooldSpittle\'swentjogging。 Toseethisnoblesport，Manynoblemenresorted； Andthoughthey\'dbutlittlemoney，Yetthatlittletheyfreelysported。 TherewasJefferyandColbornfromHampton，AndDustyfromBilstonwasthere； FlummeryhecamefromDarlaston，Andhewasasrudeasabear。 TherewasoldWillfromWalsall，AndSmackerfromWestbromwichcome； BlindRobinhecamefromRowley，Andstaggeringhewenthome。 RalphMoodycamehobblingalong，Asthoughhesomecripplewasmocking，Tojoinintheblackguardthrong，ThatmetatWednesburycocking。 HeborrowedatrifleofDoll，TobackoldTaverner\'sgrey； Helaidfourpence-halfpennytofourpence，Helostandwentbrokenaway。 Butsoonhereturnedtothepit，Forhe\'dborrowedatriflemoremoney，Andventuredanotherlargebet，AlongwithblobbermouthConey。 WhenConeydemandedhismoney，Asisusualonallsuchoccasions，Hecried，——thee，iftheedon\'tholdthyrattle，I\'llpaytheeasPaulpaidtheEphasians。 Themorning\'ssportbeingover，OldSpittleadinnerproclaimed，Eachmanheshoulddineforagroat，Ifhegrumbledheoughttobe——，Fortherewasplentyofbeef，ButSpittlehesworebyhistroth，ThatneveramanshoulddineTillheatehisnogginofbroth。 Thebeefitwasoldandtough，Offabullthatwasbaitedtodeath，BarneyHydegotalumpinhisthroat，Thathadliketohavestoppedhisbreath，Thecompanyallfellintoconfusion，AtseeingpoorBarneyHydechoke； Sotheytookhimintothekitchen，Andheldhimoverthesmoke。 Theyheldhimsoclosetothefire，Hefrizzledjustlikeabeef-steak，Theythenthrewhimdownonthefloor，Whichhadliketohavebrokenhisneck。 Onegavehimakickonthestomach，Anotherakickonthebrow，Hiswifesaid，Throwhimintothestable，Andhe\'llbebetterjustnow。 Thentheyallreturnedtothepit，Andthefightingwentforwardagain； Sixbattleswerefoughtoneachside，Andthenextwastodecidethemain。 FortheyweretwofamouscocksAseverthiscountrybred，Scroggins\'sadark-wingedblack，AndNewton\'sashift-wingedred。 Theconflictwashardonbothsides，TillBrassy\'sblack-wingedwaschoked； Thecolliersweretarnationlyvexed，Andthenailersweresorelyprovoked。 PeterStevenshesworeagreatoath，ThatScrogginshadplayedhiscockfoul； Scrogginsgavehimakickonthehead，Andcried，Yea，——thysoul。 Thecompanythenfellindiscord，Abold，boldfightdidensue；- ，-，andbitewastheword，TilltheWalsallmenallweresubdued。 RalphMoodybitoffaman\'snose，Andwishedthathecouldhavehimslain，Sotheytrampledbothcockstodeath，Andtheymadeadrawofthemain。 Thecock-pitwasneartothechurch，Anornamentuntothetown； Ononesideanoldcoalpit，Theotherwellgorsedaround。 PeterHadleypeepedthroughthegorse，Inordertoseethemfight； Spittlejobbedouthiseyewithafork，Andsaid，——thee，itservedtheeright。 Somepeoplemaythinkthisstrange，WhoWednesburyneverknew； Butthosewhohaveeverbeenthere，Willnothavetheleastdoubtit\'strue； Fortheyareassavagebynature，Andguiltyofdeedsthemostshocking； JackBakerwhackedhisownfather，AndthusendedWednesburycocking。 APPENDIXB——ReformsInstitutedatS。Micheleintheyear1478(Seep。105) ThepalmiestdaysofthesanctuarywereduringthetimethatRodolfodiMontebelloorMombellowasabbot——thatistosay，roughly，betweentheyears1325-60。\"Hisrectorate，\"saysClaretta，\"wasthegoldenageoftheAbbeyofLaChiusa，whichreapedthegloryacquiredbyitsheadinthedifficultnegotiationsentrustedtohimbyhisprinces。Butafterhisdeath，eitherlotorintriguecausedtheelectiontofalluponthosewhopreparedtheruinofoneofthemostancientandillustriousmonasteriesinPiedmont。\"{34}