第3章

Thechild，beinginweaklyhealth，diedbeforeGiovannicouldrepairhisoversight，andthispreyeduponhismind。Inanswer，however，tohisearnestprayers，itpleasedtheAlmightytogivehimpowertoraisethedeadchildtolifeagain:thishedid，andhavingimmediatelyperformedtheriteofconfirmation，restoredtheboytohisoverjoyedmother。Henowbecamesomuchreveredthathebegantobealarmedlestprideshouldobtaindominionoverhim；hefelt，therefore，thathisonlycoursewastoresignhisdiocese，andgoandlivethelifeofarecluseonthetopofsomehighmountain。Itissaidthathesufferedagoniesofdoubtastowhetheritwasnotselfishofhimtotakesuchcareofhisowneternalwelfare，attheexpenseofthatofhisflock，whomnosuccessorcouldsowellguideandguardfromevil；butintheendhetookareasonableviewofthematter，andconcludedthathisfirstdutywastosecurehisownspiritualposition。Nothingshortofthetopofaveryuncomfortablemountaincoulddothis，soheatonceresignedhisbishopricandchoseMonteCaprasioasonthewholethemostcomfortableuncomfortablemountainhecouldfind。 ThelatterpartofthestorywillseemstrangetoEnglishmen。WecanhardlyfancytheArchbishopofCanterburyorYorkresigninghisdioceseandsettlingdownquietlyonthetopofScafellorCaderIdristosecurehiseternalwelfare。TheywouldhardlydosoevenonthetopofPrimroseHill。Butninehundredyearsagohumannaturewasnotthesameasnowadays。 ThevalleyofSusa，thenlittleelsethanmarshandforest，washeldbyamarquisofthenameofArduin，adescendantofaFrenchorNormanadventurerRoger，who，withabrother，alsonamedArduin，hadcometoseekhisfortuneinItalyatthebeginningofthetenthcentury。Rogerhadason，ArduinGlabrio，whorecoveredthevalleyofSusafromtheSaracens，andestablishedhimselfatSusa，atthejunctionoftheroadsthatcomedownfromMontCenisandtheMontGenevre。Hebuiltacastleherewhichcommandedthevalley，andwashisbaseofoperationsasLordoftheMarchesandWardenoftheAlps。 HughdeMontboissierappliedtoArduinforleavetobuildupontheMontePirchiriano。ArduinwasthenholdinghiscourtatAvigliana，asmalltownnearS。Ambrogio，evennowsingularlylittlealtered，andfullofmediaevalremains；henotonlygavehisconsent，butvolunteeredtosellasitetothemonastery，soastoensureitagainstfuturedisturbance。 ThefirstchurchofGiovanniVincenzohadbeenbuiltuponwhateverlittlespacecouldbefounduponthetopofthemountain，without，sofarasIcangather，enlargingthegroundartificially。Thepresentchurch——theone，thatistosay，builtbyHughdeMontboissieraboutA。D。1000——restsalmostentirelyuponstonepiersandmasonry。Therockhasbeenmaskedbyaloftygranitewallofseveralfeetinthickness，whichpresentssomethingofakeep-likeappearance。Thespectatornaturallyimaginesthattherearerooms，&c。，behindthiswall，whereasinpointoffactthereisnothingbutthestaircaseleadinguptothefloorofthechurch。 Archesspringfromthismaskingwall，andarecontinuedthenceuntiltherockisreached；itisonthelevelsurfacethusobtainedthatthechurchrests。Thetruefloor，therefore，doesnotbegintillnearwhatappearsfromtheoutsidetobethetopofthebuilding。 Thereissomeuncertaintyastotheexactdateofthefoundationofthemonastery，butClaretta{11}inclinesdecidedlytothedate999，asagainst966，theoneassignedbyMabillonandTorraneo。 Clarettareliesonthediscovery，byProvana，ofadocumentintheroyalarchiveswhichseemstoplacethematterbeyonddispute。ThefirstabbotwasundoubtedlyAvvertoorArveo，whoestablishedtherulesoftheBenedictineOrderinhismonastery。\"InthesevenhoursofdailyworkprescribedbytheBenedictinerule，\"writesCesareBalbo，\"innumerablewerethefieldstheyploughed，andthehousestheybuiltindeserts，whileinmorefrequentedplacesmenwerelayingcultivatedgroundwaste，anddestroyingbuildings: innumerable，again，weretheworksoftheholyfathersandofancientauthorswhichwerecopiedandpreserved。\"{12} Fromthistimeforwardthemonasteryreceivedgiftsinlandandprivileges，andbecameinafewyearsthemostimportantreligiousestablishmentinthatpartofItaly。 Therehavebeenseveralfires——one，amongothers，intheyear1340，whichdestroyedagreatpartofthemonastery，andsomeofthedeedsunderwhichitheldvaluablegrants；butthoughthepartinhabitedbythemonksmayhavebeenrebuiltoraddedto，thechurchiscertainlyuntouched。 CHAPTERVIII——S。Michele(continued) Ihadoftenseenthiswonderfulpileofbuildings，andhadmarvelledatit，asallmustdowhopassfromSusatoTurin，butI neverwentactuallyuptoittilllastsummer，incompanywithmyfriendandcollaborateur，Mr。H。F。Jones。WereachedS。AmbrogiostationonesultryeveninginJuly，and，beforemanyminuteswereover，wereonthepaththatleadstoSanPietro，alittlemorethananhour\'swalkaboveS。Ambrogio。 InspiteofwhatIhavesaidaboutKent，Surrey，andSussex，wefoundourselvesthinkinghowthinandwanting，asitwere，inadiposecushioniseveryothercountryincomparisonwithItaly； butthecharmisenhancedinthesedaysbythefeelingthatitcanbereachedsoeasily。Wednesdaymorning，FleetStreet；Thursdayevening，apathuponthequietmountainside，undertheoverspreadingchestnuts，withLombardyatone\'sfeet。 Sometwentyminutesafterwehadbeguntoclimb，thesanctuarybecamelosttosight，largedropsofthunder-rainbegantofall，andbythetimewereachedSanPietroitwaspouringheavily，andhadbecomequitedark。Anhourorsolatertheskyhadcleared，andtherewasasplendidmoon:openingthewindows，wefoundourselveslookingoverthetopsoftreesontosomelovelyuplandpastures，onawindingpaththroughwhichwecouldalmostfancywesawayouthledbyanangel，andtherewasadogwithhim，andheheldafishinhishand。FarbelowwerelightsfromvillagesinthevalleyoftheDora。Aboveusrosethemountains，bathedinshadow，orglitteringinthemoonbeams，andtherecamefromthemthepleasantmurmuringofstreamletsthathadbeenswollenbythestorm。 Nextmorningtheskywascloudlessandtheairinvigorating。S。 Ambrogio，atthefootofthemountain，mustbesome800feetabovethesea，andSanPietroabout1500feetaboveS。Ambrogio。Thesanctuaryatthetopofthemountainis2800feetabovethesea- level，orabout500feetaboveSanPietro。AsituationmoredelightfulthanthatofSanPietroitisimpossibletoconceive。 Itcontainssome200inhabitants，andliesonaledgeoflevelland，whichis，ofcourse，coveredwiththemostbeautifullygreengrass，andinspringcarpetedwithwild-flowers；greatbroad-leavedchestnutsrisefromoutthemeadows，andbeneaththeirshadearestrewnmassesofsobermulberry-colouredrock；butabovealltheserisesthegreatfeatureoftheplace，fromwhich，whenitisinsight，theeyescanhardlybediverted，——ImeanthesanctuaryofS。 Micheleitself。 Asketchgivesbutlittleideaoftheplace。InnatureitappearsasoneofthosefascinatingthingslikethesmokefromVesuvius，orthetownontheSacroMonteatVarese，whichtakepossessionofonetotheexclusionofallelse，aslongastheyareinsight。Fromeachpointofviewitbecomesmoreandmorestriking。ClimbinguptoitfromSanPietroandgettingatlastnearlyonalevelwiththelowerpartsofthebuilding，oragainkeepingtoapathwayalongthesideofthemountaintowardsAvigliana，itwillcomeasonthefollowingpage。 [Atthispointthereisapictureinthebook] Thereisaverybeautifulviewfromnearthespotwherethefirstofthesesketchesistaken。Wearethenontheveryridgeorcrestofthemountain，andlookdownontheonehanduponthevalleyoftheDoragoinguptoSusa，withtheglaciersoftheMontCenisinthebackground，andontheotherupontheplainsnearTurin，withthecollineboundingthehorizon。ImmediatelybeneathisseentheglaringwhitestraightlineoftheoldMontCenisroad，lookingmuchmoreimportantthanthedingynarrowlittlestripofrailroadthathassupersededit。Thetrainsthatpassalongthelinelooknobiggerthancaterpillars，butevenatthisdistancetheymakeagreatroar。Ifthepathfromwhichthesecondviewistakenisfollowedforaquarterofanhourorso，anothernolessbeautifulpointisreachedfromwhichonecanlookdownuponthetwosmalllakesofAvigliana。TheselakessupplyTurinwithwater，and，I mayadd，withthebestwaterthatIknowofassuppliedtoanytown。 Wewillnowreturntotheplacefromwhichthefirstofthesketchesonp。95wastaken，andproceedtothesanctuaryitself。 Passingthesmallbutverymassivecircularruinshownontherighthandofthesketch，aboutwhichnothingwhateverisknowneitherasregardsitsdateorobject，weascendbyagentleinclinetotheoutergateofthesanctuary。Thebatteredplatesofironthatcoverthewoodendoorsaremarkedwithmanyabullet。Thenwekeepundercoverforashortspace，afterwhichwefindourselvesatthefootofalongflightofsteps。Closebythereisalittleterracewithawallroundit，whereonecanstandandenjoyaviewoverthevalleyoftheDoratoTurin。 Havingascendedthesteps，weareatthemainentrancetothebuilding——amassiveLombarddoorway，evidentlytheoriginalone。 Inthespaceabovethedoortherehavebeentwofrescoes，anearlierandalaterone，onepaintedovertheother，butnothingnowremainssavethesignatureofthesecondpainter，signedinGothiccharacters。Onentering，morestepsmustbeatonceclimbed，andthenthestaircaseturnsatrightanglesandtendstowardstherock。 Attheheadoftheflightshownp。98，thenaturalrockappears。 Thearchaboveitformsarecessfilledwithdesiccatedcorpses。 Thegreatpiertotheleft，and，indeed，allthemasonrythatcanbeseen，hasnootherobjectthantoobtainspacefor，andtosupport，thefloorofthechurchitself。Mydrawingwastakenfromaboutthelevelofthetopofthearchwaythroughwhichthebuildingisentered。Therecomesinatthispointathirdsmallstaircasefrombehind；ascendingthis，onefindsone\'sselfinthewindowabovethedoor，fromthebalconyofwhichthereisamarvellouspanorama。Itookadvantageofthewindowtomeasurethethicknessofthewalls，andfoundthemalittleoversevenfeetthickandbuiltofmassivegraniteblocks。Thestonesontheinsidearesosharpandcleancutthattheylookasiftheywerenotmorethanfiftyyearsold。Ontheoutside，thegranite，hardasitis，ismuchweathered，which，indeed，consideringtheexposedsituation，ishardlytobewonderedat。 Hereagainhowthewindmusthowlandwhistle，andhowthesnowmustbeatinwinter!Noonewhohasnotseensnowfallingduringatimewhenthethermometerisaboutatzerocanknowhowsearchingathingitis。Howsoftlywoulditnotlieupontheskullsandshouldersoftheskeletons。FancyadulldarkJanuaryafternoon\'stwilightuponthisstaircase，afteraheavysnow，whenthesoftfleececlingstothewalls，havingdriftedinthroughmanyanopening。Orfancyabrilliantwinter\'smoonlight，withthemoonfallingupontheskeletonsaftersnow。Andthenlettherebeaburstofmusicfromanorganinthechurchabove(Iamsorrytosaytheyhaveonlyaharmonium；Iwishsomeonewouldgivethemafineorgan)。Ishouldlikethefollowingforexample:-{13} [Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven] Howthiswouldsounduponthesestairs，iftheywouldleavethechurch-dooropen。ItissaidinMurray\'shandbookthatformerlythecorpseswhicharenowunderthearch，usedtobeplacedinasittingpositionuponthestairs，andthepeasantswouldcrownthemwithflowers。Fancytwilightormoonlightonthesestairs，withthecorpsessittingamongthewitheredflowersandsnow，andthepealingofagreatorgan。 Afterascendingthestepsthatleadtowardstheskeletons，weturnagainsharproundtotheleft，andcomeuponanothernobleflight—— broadandlofty，andcutingreatmeasurefromthelivingrock。 AtthetopofthisflighttherearetwosetsofLombardportals，bothofthemveryfine，butinsuchdarknessandsoplacedthatitwasimpossibletogetadrawingofthemindetail。Afterpassingthroughthem，thestaircaseturnsagain，and，asfarasIcanremember，sometwentyorthirtystepsbringoneuptothelevelofthetopofthearchwhichformstherecesswherethecorpsesare。 HerethereisanotherbeautifulLombarddoorway，withasmallarcadeoneithersidewhichIthoughtEnglish，ratherthanItalian，incharacter。Animpressionwasproduceduponbothofusthatthisdoorwayandthearcadeoneithersidewerebyadifferentarchitectfromthetwolowerarchways，andfromtheinsideofthechurch；oratanyrate，thatthedetailsoftheenrichmentwerecutbyadifferentmason，organgofmasons。Ithink，however，thewholedoorwayisinalaterstyle，andmusthavebeenputinaftersomefirehaddestroyedtheearlierone。 Openingthedoor，whichbydayisalwaysunlocked，wefoundourselvesinthechurchitself。AsIhavesaid，itisofpureLombardarchitecture，andverygoodofitskind；Idonotthinkithasbeentouchedsincethebeginningoftheeleventhcentury，exceptthatithasbeenre-roofedandthepitchoftheroofaltered。Atthebaseofthemostwesterlyofthethreepiersthatdividethenavefromtheaisles，therecropsoutasmallpieceofthelivingrock；thisisattheendfarthestfromthechoir。ItisnotlikelythatGiovanniVincenzo\'schurchreachedeastofthispoint，forfromthispointonwardstowardsthechoirthefloorisartificiallysupported，andthesupportingstructureisdueentirelytoHugodeMontboissier。Thepartoftheoriginalchurchwhichstillremainsisperhapsthewall，whichformsthewesternlimitofthepresentchurch。Thiswallisnotexternal。Itformstheeasternwallofalargechamberwithfrescoes。Iamnotsurethatthischamberdoesnotoccupythewholespaceoftheoriginalchurch。 Thereareafewnicevotivepicturesinthechurch，andoneortwoveryearlyfrescoes，whicharenotwithoutinterest；butthemaincharmoftheplaceisinthearchitecture，andthesenseatonceofageandstrengthwhichitproduces。ThestockthingstoseearethevaultsinwhichmanyofthemembersoftheroyalhouseofSavoy，legitimateandillegitimate，lieburied；theyneednot，however，beseen。 Ihavesaidthatthewholebuildingisofmuchaboutthesamedate，and，unlessperhapsintheresidentialparts，aboutwhichIcansaylittle，hasnotbeenaltered。ThisisnottheviewtakenbytheauthorofMurray\'sHandbookforNorthItaly，whosaysthat\"injudiciousrepairshavemarredtheeffectofthebuilding；\"butthiswriterhasfallenintoseveralerrors。Hetalks，forexample，ofthe\"openLombardgalleryofsmallcirculararches\"asbeing\"oneoftheoldestandmostcuriousfeaturesofthebuilding，\" whereasitisobviouslynoolderthantherestofthechurch，northanthekeep-likeconstructionuponwhichitrests。Again，heisclearlyinerrorwhenhesaysthatthe\"extremelybeautifulcirculararchbywhichwepassfromthestaircasetothecorridorleadingtothechurch，isavestigeoftheoriginalbuilding。\"Thedoubleroundarchedportalsthroughwhichwepassfromthemainstaircasetothecorridorareofexactlythesamedateasthestaircaseitself，andastherestofthechurch。TheycertainlyformednopartofGiovanniVincenzo\'sedifice；for，besidesbeingfartoorich，theyarenotonalevelwithwhatremainsofthatbuilding，butseveralfeetbelowit。Itishardtoknowwhatthewritermeansby\"theoriginalbuilding；\"heappearstothinkitextendedtothepresentchoir，which，hesays，\"retainstracesofanearlierage。\"Thechoirretainsnosuchtraces。Theonlyremainsoftheoriginalchurchareatthebackofthewestend，invisiblefromtheinsideofthechurch，andattheoppositeendtothechoir。Asforthechurchbeing\"inaplainGothicstyle，\"itisanextremelybeautifulexampleofpureLombard，ofthefirstfewyearsoftheeleventhcentury。True，themiddlearchofthethreewhichdividethenavefromtheaislesispointed，whereasthetwoothersareround，butthisisevidentlydonetoeconomisespace，whichwashereunusuallycostly。Therewasroomformorethantworoundarches，butnotroomenoughforthree，soitwasdecidedtodockthemiddlearchalittle。Itisashe-arch——thatistosay，ithasnokeystone，butisformedsimplybyproppingtwosegmentsofacircleoneagainsttheother。ItcertainlyisnotaGothicarch；itisaLombardarch，modifiedinanunusualmanner，owingtoitshavingbeenbuiltunderunusualconditions。 ThevisitorshouldonnoaccountomittoringthebellandasktobeshowntheopenLombardgalleryalreadyreferredtoasrunningroundtheoutsideofthechoir。Itiswellworthwalkingroundthis，ifonlyfortheview。 Theofficialwhoshowedusroundwasverykind，andasapersonalfavourwewereallowedtovisitthefathers\'privategarden。Thelargearm-chairsaremadeoutofclippedbox-trees。Whileonourwaytothegardenwepassedaspotwheretherewasanalarmingbuzzing，andfoundourselvessurroundedbywhatappearedtobeanangryswarmofbees；closerinspectionshowedthatthehostwasamedleyone，composedofwasps，hugehornets，hive-bees，humble- bees，flies，dragon-flies，butterflies，andallkindsofinsects，flyingaboutasinglepatchofivyinfullblossom，whichattractedthemsostronglythattheyneglectedeverythingelse。Ithinksomeofthemwereintoxicated。Ifthiswasso，thenperhapsBacchusiscalled\"ivy-crowned\"becauseivy-blossomsintoxicateinsects，butI neverremembertohavebeforeobservedthativy-blossomshadanyspecialattractionforinsects。 Ihaveforgottentosayanythingaboutabeamofwoodwhichmaybeseenstandingoutatrightanglesfromthetowertotherightofthemainbuilding。ThisIbelievetohavebeenthegallows。 AnotherlikeitmaybeseenatS。Giorio，butIhavenotgotitinmysketchofthatplace。TheattendantwhotookusroundS。 Micheledeniedthatitwasthegallows，butIthinkitmusthavebeen。Also，theattendantshowedusoneplacewhichiscalledIlSaltodellabelleAlda。Aldawasbeingpursuedbyasoldier；topreserveherhonour，sheleapedfromawindowandfelloveraprecipicesomehundredsoffeetbelow；bytheintercessionoftheVirginshewassaved，butbecamesomuchelatedthatshedeterminedtorepeatthefeat。Shejumpedasecondtimefromthewindow，butwasdashedtopieces。Weweretoldthisasbeingunworthyofactualcredence，butasalegendoftheplace。Wesaidwefoundnogreatdifficultyinbelievingthefirsthalfofthestory，butcouldhardlybelievethatanyonewouldjumpfromthatwindowtwice。{14} CHAPTERIX——TheNorthItalianPriesthoodThereisnowaschoolinthesanctuary；wemettheboysseveraltimes。Theyseemedwellcaredforandcontented。Thepriestswhoresideinthesanctuarywerecourtesyitself；theytookawarminterestinEngland，andwereanxiousforanyinformationIcouldgivethemaboutthemonasterynearLoughborough——anamewhichtheyhadmuchdifficultyinpronouncing。Theywereperfectlytolerant，andreadytoextendtootherstheconsiderationtheyexpectedforthemselves。Thisshouldnotbesayingmuch，butasthingsgoitissayingagooddeal。Whatindeedmorecanbewishedfor？ Thefacesofsuchpriestsasthese——andIshouldsaysuchpriestsformafullhalfoftheNorthItalianpriesthood——areperfectlyfreefromthatbadfurtiveexpressionwhichweassociatewithpriestcraft，andwhich，whenseen，cannotbemistaken:theirfacesarethoseofourownbestEnglishcountryclergy，withperhapsatriflelessfleshaboutthemandatriflemoreofanotunkindlyasceticism。 ComparingourownclergywiththebestNorthItalianandTicinesepriests，Ishouldsaytherewaslittletochoosebetweenthem。Thelatterareinalogicallystrongerposition，andthisgivesthemgreatercourageintheiropinions；theformerhavetheadvantageinrespectofmoney，andthemorevariedknowledgeoftheworldwhichmoneywillcommand。WhenIsayCatholicshavelogicallytheadvantageoverProtestants，Imeanthatstartingfrompremiseswhichbothsidesadmit，amerelylogicalProtestantwillfindhimselfdriventotheChurchofRome。Mostmenastheygrowolderwill，Ithink，feelthis，andtheywillseeinittheexplanationofthecomparativelynarrowareaoverwhichtheReformationextended，andofthegainwhichCatholicismhasmadeoflateyearshereinEngland。Ontheotherhand，reasonablepeoplewilllookwithdistrustupontoomuchreason。Thefoundationsofactionliedeeperthanreasoncanreach。Theyrestonfaith——forthereisnoabsolutelycertainincontrovertiblepremisewhichcanbelaidbyman，anymorethanthereisanyinvestmentformoneyorsecurityinthedailyaffairsoflifewhichisabsolutelyunimpeachable。Thefundsarenotabsolutelysale；avolcanomightbreakoutundertheBankofEngland。Arailwayjourneyisnotabsolutelysafe；oneperson，atleast，inseveralmillionsgetskilled。Weinvestourmoneyuponfaithmainly。Wechooseourdoctoruponfaith，forhowlittleindependentjudgmentcanweformconcerninghiscapacity？ Wechooseschoolsforourchildrenchieflyuponfaith。Themostimportantthingsamanhasarehisbody，hissoul，andhismoney。 Itisgenerallybetterforhimtocommittheseintereststothecareofothersofwhomhecanknowlittle，ratherthanbehisownmedicalman，orinvesthismoneyonhisownjudgment；andthisisnothingelsethanmakingafaithwhichliesdeeperthanreasoncanreach，thebasisofouractioninthoserespectswhichtouchusmostnearly。 Ontheotherhand，asgoodacasecouldbemadeoutforplacingreasonasthefoundation，inasmuchasitwouldbeeasytoshowthatafaith，tobeworthanything，mustbeareasonableone——one，thatistosay，whichisbaseduponreason。Thefactis，thatfaithandreasonarelikedesireandpower，ordemandandsupply；itisimpossibletosaywhichcomesfirst:theycomeuphandinhand，andaresosmallwhenwecanfirstdescrythem，thatitisimpossibletosaywhichwefirstcaughtsightof。Allwecannowseeisthateachhasatendencycontinuallytooutstriptheotherbyalittle butbyaverylittleonly。Strictlytheyarenottwothings，buttwoaspectsofonething；forconveniencesake，however，weclassifythemseparately。 Itfollows，therefore——butwhetheritfollowsorno，itiscertainlytrue——thatneitherfaithalonenorreasonaloneisasufficientguide:aman\'ssafetyliesneitherinfaithnorreason，butintemper——inthepoweroffusingfaithandreason，evenwhentheyappearmostmutuallydestructive。Amanoftemperwillbecertaininspiteofuncertainty，andatthesametimeuncertaininspiteofcertainty；reasonableinspiteofhisrestingmainlyuponfaithratherthanreason，andfulloffaithevenwhenappealingmoststronglytoreason。Ifitisasked，Inwhatshouldamanhavefaith？Towhatfaithshouldheturnwhenreasonhasledhimtoaconclusionwhichhedistrusts？theansweris，Tothecurrentfeelingamongthosewhomhemostlooksupto——lookinguponhimselfwithsuspicionifheiseitheramongtheforemostorthelaggers。 Intherough，homelycommonsenseofthecommunitytowhichwebelongwehaveasfirmgroundascanbegot。This，thoughnotabsolutelyinfallible，issecureenoughforpracticalpurposes。 AsIhavesaid，Catholicpriestshaveratherafascinationforme—— whentheyarenotEnglishmen。IshouldsaythatthebestNorthItalianpriestsaremoreopenlytolerantthanourEnglishclergygenerallyare。Irememberpickinguponewhowaswalkingalongaroad，andgivinghimaliftinmytrap。Ofcoursewefelltotalking，anditcameoutthatIwasamemberoftheChurchofEngland。\"Ebbene，caroSignore，\"saidhewhenweshookhandsatparting；\"mirincrescecheLeinoncredecomeme，mainquestitempinonpossiamoaveretuttiimedesimiprincipii。\"{15} ItravelledanotherdayfromSusatoS。Ambrogiowithapriest，whotoldmehetookin\"TheCatholicTimes，\"andwhowaswelluptodateonEnglishmatters。BeingmyselfaConservative，Ifoundhisopinionssoundonallpointsbutone——IrefertotheIrishquestion:hehadnosympathywiththeobstructionistsinParliament，butneverthelessthoughttheIrishwereharshlytreated。IexplainedmattersaswellasIcould，andfoundhimverywillingtolistentooursideofthequestion。 Theonething，hesaid，whichshockedhimwiththeEnglish，wasthemannerinwhichtheywentaboutdistributingtractsupontheContinent。Isaidnoonecoulddeplorethepracticemoreprofoundlythanmyself，butthattherewerestupidandconceitedpeopleineverycountry，whowouldinsistuponthrustingtheiropinionsuponpeoplewhodidnotwantthem。HerepliedthattheItalianstravellednotalittleinEngland，butthathewassurenotoneofthemwoulddreamofofferingCatholictractstopeople，forexample，inthestreetsofLondon。CertainlyIhaveneverseenanItaliantobeguiltyofsuchrudeness。Itseemstomethatitisnotonlytolerationthatisaduty；weoughttogobeyondthisnow；weshouldconform，whenweareamongasufficientnumberofthosewhowouldnotunderstandourrefusaltodoso；anyothercourseistoattachtoomuchimportanceatoncetoourownopinionsandtothoseofouropponents。Byallmeansletamanstandbyhisconvictionswhentheoccasionrequires，butlethimreservehisstrength，unlessitisimperativelycalledfor。Donotlethimexaggeratetrifles，andlethimrememberthateverythingisatrifleincomparisonwiththenotgivingoffencetoalargenumberofkindly，simple-mindedpeople。Evolution，asweallknow，isthegreatdoctrineofmoderntimes；theveryessenceofevolutionconsistsinthenotshockinganythingtooviolently，butenablingittomistakeanewactionforanoldone，without\"makingbelieve\" toomuch。 OnedaywhenIwaseatingmylunchnearafountain，therecameupamoody，meditativehen，crooningplaintivelyafterherwont。I threwheracrumbofbreadwhileshewasstillagoodwayoff，andthenthrewmore，gettinghertocomealittlecloserandalittleclosereachtime；atlastsheactuallytookapiecefrommyhand。 Shedidnotquitelikeit，butshedidit。Thisistheevolutionprinciple；andifwewishthosewhodifferfromustounderstandus，itistheonlymethodtoproceedupon。IhavesometimesthoughtthatsomeofmyfriendsamongthepriestshavebeentreatingmeasItreatedthemeditativehen。Butwhatofthat？ Theywillnotkillandeatme，nortakemyeggs。Whatever，therefore，promotesamorefriendlyfeelingbetweenusmustbepuregain。 ThemistakeouradvancedLiberalsmakeisthatofflingingmuchtoolargepiecesofbreadatatime，andflingingthemattheirhen，insteadofalittlewayoffher。Ofcoursethehenisflutteredanddrivenaway。Sometimes，too，theydonotsufficientlydistinguishbetweenbreadandstones。 Asageneralrule，thecommonpeopletreatthepriestsrespectfully，butonceIheardseveralattackingonewarmlyonthescoreofeternalpunishment。\"Sara，\"saidone，\"percentoanni，percinquecento，permilleoforseperdiecimilleanni，manonsaraeterna；percheilDioeunuomoforte——grande，generoso，dibuoncuore。\"{16}AnItaliantoldmeoncethatifeverIcameuponapriestwhomIwantedtotease，IwastoaskhimifheknewaplacecalledLaTorrePellice。Ihaveneveryethadthechanceofdoingthis；for，thoughIamfairlyquickatseeingwhetherIamlikelytogetonwithapriestorno，Ifindthepriestisgenerallyfairlyquicktoo；andIamnosoonerinadiligenceorrailwaycarriagewithanunsympatheticpriest，thanhecurlshimselfroundintoamoralballandprayshorribly——bristlingoutwithcollectsalloverlikeacross-grainedspiritualhedgehog。 Partly，therefore，fromhavingnowishtogooutofmywaytomakemyselfobnoxious，andpartlythroughtheoppositepartybeingdeterminedthatIshallnotgetthechance，thequestionaboutLaTorrePellicehasnevercomeoff，andIdonotknowwhatapriestwouldsayifthesubjectwereintroduced，——butIdidgetatalkingaboutLaTorrePelliceallthesame。 IwasgoingfromTurintoPinerolo，andfoundmyselfseatedoppositeafine-lookingelderlygentlemanwhowasreadingapaperheaded，\"LeTemoin，EchodesValleesVaudoises\":fortheVaudois，orWaldenses，thoughontheItaliansideoftheAlps，areFrenchinlanguageandperhapsinorigin。Ifelltotalkingwiththisgentleman，andfoundhewasonhiswaytoLaTorrePellice，theheadquartersofindigenousItalianevangelicism。Hetoldmetherewereabout25，000inhabitantsofthesevalleys，andthattheywerewithoutexceptionProtestant，orratherthattheyhadneveracceptedCatholicism，buthadretainedtheprimitiveApostolicfaithinitsoriginalpurity。HehintedtomethattheyweredescendantsofsomeoneormoreofthelosttentribesofIsrael。 TheEnglish，hetoldme(meaning，Igather，theEnglishoftheEnglandthataffectsExeterHall)，haddonegreatthingsfortheinhabitantsofLaTorreatdifferenttimes，andtherewerestreetscalledtheViaWilliamsandViaBeckwith。Theywere，hesaid，averygrowingsect，andhadmissionariesandestablishmentsinalltheprincipalcitiesinNorthItaly；infact，sofarasIcouldgather，theywereasaggressiveasmalcontentsgenerallyare，and，Italiansthoughtheywere，wouldgiveawaytractsjustasreadilyaswedo。Ididnot，therefore，gotoLaTorre。 Sometimespriestssaythings，asamatterofcourse，whichwouldmakeanyEnglishclergyman\'shairstandonend。Atonetownthereisaremarkablefourteenth-centurybridge，commonlyknownas\"TheDevil\'sBridge。\"Iwassketchingnearthiswhenajollyoldpriestwitharednosecameupandbeganaconversationwithme。Hewasevidentlyapopularcharacter，foreveryonewhopassedgreetedhim。Hetoldmethatthedevildidnotreallybuildthebridge。I saidIpresumednot，forhewasnotinthehabitofspendinghistimesowell。 \"Iwishhehadbuiltit，\"saidmyfriend；\"forthenperhapshewouldbuildussomemore。\" \"Orwemightevengetachurchoutofhim，\"saidI，alittleslyly。 \"Ha，ha，ha!wewillconverthim，andmakeagoodChristianofhimintheend。\" WhenwillourProtestantism，orRationalism，orwhateveritmaybe，sitaslightlyuponourselves？ CHAPTERX——S。AmbrogioandNeighbourhoodSincetheopeningoftherailway，theoldinnwherethediligencesandprivatecarriagesusedtostophasbeenclosed；butIwasmade，inahomelyway，extremelycomfortableattheScudodiFrancia，keptbySignorBonaudoandhiswife。Istayedhereoverafortnight，duringwhichImadeseveralexcursions。 OnedayIwenttoSanGiorio，asitisalwayswrittenthoughSanGiorgioisevidentlyintended。Herethereisaruinedcastle，beautifullyplaceduponahill；thiscastleshowswellfromtherailwayshortlyafterleavingBussolenostation，ontherighthandgoingtowardsTurin。Havingbeenstruckwithit，IwentbytraintoBussoleno(wherethereismuchthatIwasunwillinglycompelledtoneglect)，andwalkedbacktoSanGiorio。Onmyway，however，I sawapatchofCima-da-Conegliano-lookingmeadow-landonahillsomewayaboveme，andonthisthererosefromamongthechestnutswhatlookedlikeacastellatedmansion。Ithoughtitwelltomakeadigressiontothis，andwhenIgotthere，afteralovelywalk，knockedatthedoor，havingbeentoldbypeasantsthattherewouldbenodifficultyaboutmytakingalookround。TheplaceiscalledtheCastelBurrello，andistenantedbyanoldpriestwhohasretiredhithertoendhisdays。Isentinmycardandbusinessbyhisservant，andby-and-byhecameouttomehimself。 \"VousetesAnglais，monsieur？\"saidheinFrench。 \"Oui，monsieur。\" \"VousetesCatholique？\" \"Monsieur，jesuisdelareligiondemesperes。\" \"Pardon，monsieur，vosancetresetaientCatholiquesjusqu\'autempsdeHenriVIII。\" \"MaisilyatroiscentansdepuisletempsdeHenriVIII。\" \"Ehbien!chacunasesconvictions；vousneparlezpascontrelareligion？\" \"Jamais，jamais，monsieur；j\'aiunrespectenormepourl\'EgliseCatholique。\" \"Monsieur，faitescommechezvous；allezouvousvoulez；voustrouvereztouteslesportesouvertes。Amusez-vousbien。\" Hethenexplainedtomethatthecastlehadneverbeenaproperlyfortifiedplace，beingintendedonlyasasummerresidenceforthebaronsofBussoleno，whousedtoresorthitherduringtheextremeheat，iftimesweretolerablyquiet。Afterthisheleftme。 Takinghimathisword，Iwalkedallround，buttherewasonlyashellremaining；therestofthebuildinghadevidentlybeenburnt，eventhewinginwhichthepresentproprietorresidesbeing，ifI rememberrightly，modernised。Thesite，however，andtheslopingmeadowswhichthecastlecrowns，areofextremebeauty。 InowwalkeddowntoSanGiorio，andfoundasmallinnwhereI couldgetbread，butter，eggs，andgoodwine。Iwaswaiteduponbyagood-naturedboy，thesonofthelandlord，whowasaccompaniedbyahawkthatsatalwayseitheruponhishandorshoulder。AsI lookedatthepairIthoughttheywereverymuchalike，andcertainlytheywereverymuchinlovewithoneanother。AfterdinnerIsketchedthecastle。WhileIwasdoingso，agentlemantoldmethatalargebreachinthewallwasmadeafewyearsago，andapartofthewallfoundtobehollow，thebottomofthehollowpartbeingunwittinglyremoved，therefellthroughaskeletoninafullsuitofarmour。Others，whomIasked，hadheardnothingofthis。 Talkingofhawks，Isawagoodmanyboyswithtameyounghawksinthevillagesroundabout。TherewasatamehawkatthestationofS。Ambrogio。Thestation-mastersaiditusedtogonowandagaintothechurch-steepletocatchsparrows，butwouldalwaysreturninanhourortwo。Beforemystaywasoveritgotinthewayofapassingtrainandwasrunover。 Youngbirdsaremucheateninthisneighbourhood。Thehousesandbarns，nottosaythesteeplesofthechurches，aretobeseenstuckaboutwithwhatlookliketerra-cottawater-bottleswiththenecksoutwards。Twoorthreemaybeseenintheillustrationonp。 113outsidethewindowthatcomesoutoftheroof，ontheleft-handsideofthepicture。IhaveseensomeoutsideanItalianrestaurantnearLewisham。Theyareartificialbird\'s-nestsforthesparrowstobuildin:assoonastheyoungareoldenoughtheyaretakenandmadeintoapie。Thechurch-towerneartheHoteldelaPosteatLanzoismorestuckaboutwiththemthananyotherbuildingthatIhaveseen。 Swallowsandhawksareabouttheonlybirdswhoseyoungarenoteaten。OneafternoonImetaboywithajayonhisfinger:havingimprudentlymadeadvancestothisyounggentlemaninthehopesofgettingacquaintedwiththebird，hesaidhethoughtIhadbetterbuyitandhaveitformydinner；butIdidnotfancyit。AnotherdayIsawthepadronaattheinn-doortalkingtoalad，whopulledopenhisshirt-frontandshowedsometwentyorthirtynestlingsinthesimplepocketformedbyhisshirtontheonesideandhisskinupontheother。ThepadronawantedmetosayIshouldliketoeatthem，inwhichcaseshewouldhaveboughtthem；butonecannotgetallthenonsenseonehearsathomeoutofone\'sheadinamoment，andIamafraidIpreachedalittle。Thepadrona，whoisoneofthemostfascinatingwomenintheworld，andatsixtyisstillhandsome，lookedalittlevexedandpuzzled:sheadmittedthetruthofwhatIsaid，butpleadedthattheboysfounditveryhardtogainafewsoldi，andifpeopledidn\'tkillandeatonething，theywouldanother。TheresultofitallwasthatIdeterminedforthefuturetoleaveyoungbirdstotheirfate；theyandtheboysmustsettlethatmatterbetweenthemselves。Iftheyoungbirdwasaboy，andtheboyayoungbird，itwouldhavebeentheboywhowastakenruthlesslyfromhisnestandeaten。Anoldbirdhasnorighttohaveahomestead，andayoungbirdhasnorighttoexistatall，unlesstheycankeepbothhomesteadandexistenceoutofthewayofboyswhoareinwantofhalf-pence。Itisallperfectlyright，andwhenwegoandstayamongthesecharmingpeople，letusdosoaslearners，notasteachers。 Iwatchedthepadronagettingmysupperready。Withwhatartdonotthesepeoplemanagetheirfire。TheNewZealandMaorissaythewhitemanisafool:\"Hemakesalargefire，andthenhastositawayfromit；theMaorimakesasmallfire，andsitsoverit。\"TheschemeofanItaliankitchen-fireisthatthereshallalwaysbeonestoutlogsmoulderingonthehearth，fromwhichafewlivecoalsmaybechippedoffifwanted，andputintothesmallsquaregratingswhichareusedforstewingorroasting。Anywarmingup，orshorterboiling，isdoneontheMaoriprincipleofmakingasmallfireoflightdrywood，andfeedingitfrequently。Theyeconomiseeverything。ThusIsawthepadronawashsomehen\'seggswellincoldwater；Ididnotseewhysheshouldwashthembeforeboilingthem，butpresentlythesoupwhichIwastohaveformysupperbegantoboil。Thensheputtheeggsintothesoupandboiledtheminit。 AftersupperIhadatalkwiththepadrone，whotoldmeIwasworkingtoohard。\"Totamnoctem，\"saidheinLatin，\"lavoravimusetnihilincepimus。\"(\"Wehavelabouredallnightandtakennothing。\")\"Oh!\"hecontinued，\"Ihaveeyesandearsinmyhead。\" Andashespoke，withhisrighthandhedrewdownhislowereyelid，andwithhisleftpinchedthepigofhisear。\"Youwillbeillifyougoonlikethis。\"Thenhelaidhishandalonghischeek，puthisheadononeside，andshuthiseyes，toimitateasickmaninbed。OnthisIarrangedtogoanexcursionwithhimonthedayfollowingtoafarmhehadafewmilesoff，andtowhichhewenteveryFriday。 WewenttoBorgonestation，andwalkedacrossthevalleytoavillagecalledVillarFochiardo。Thencewebegangentlytoascend，passingundersomenoblechestnuts。SignorBonaudosaidthatthisisoneofthebestchestnut-growingdistrictsinItaly。Agoodtree，hetoldme，wouldgiveitsfortyfrancsayear。Thisseemsasthoughchestnut-growingmustbelucrative，foranacreshouldcarrysomefiveorsixtrees，andthereisnooutlaytospeakof。 Besidesthechestnuts，thelandgivesastillfurtherreturnbywayofthegrassthatgrowsbeneaththem。Walnutsdonotyieldnearlysomuchpertreeaschestnutsdo。Inthree-quartersofanhourorsowereachedSignorBonaudo\'sfarm，whichwascalledtheCasinadiBanda。Thebuildingshadoncebeenamonastery，foundedatthebeginningoftheseventeenthcenturyandsecularisedbythefirstNapoleon，buthadbeenpurchasedfromthestateafewyearsagobySignorBonaudo，inpartnershipwiththreeothers，afterthepassingoftheChurchPropertyAct。Itisbeautifullysituatedsomehundredsoffeetabovethevalley，andcommandsalovelyviewoftheComba，asitiscalled，orCombeofSusa。TheaccompanyingsketchwillgiveanideaoftheviewlookingtowardsTurin。Thelargebuildingonthehillis，ofcourse，S。Michele。TheverydistantdomeistheSupergaontheothersideofTurin。 ThefirstthingSignorBonaudodidwhenhegottohisfarmwastoseewhetherthewaterhadbeendulyturnedontohisownportionoftheestate。Eachofthefourpurchasershadhisseparateportion，andeachhadarighttothewaterforthirty-sixhoursperweek。 SignorBonaudowentroundwithhishindatonce，andsawthatthedamsintheductsweresoopenedorclosedthathisownlandwasbeingirrigated。 Nothingcanexceedtheingenuitywithwhichthelittlecanalsarearrangedsothateachpartofameadow，howeverundulating，shallbesaturatedequally。Thepeopleareveryjealousoftheirwaterrights，andindeednotunnaturally，fortheyieldofgrassdependsinverygreatmeasureupontheamountofirrigationwhichthelandcanget。 Thematterofthewaterhavingbeenseento，wewenttothemonastery，or，asitnowis，thehomestead。Asweenteredthefarmyardwefoundtwocowsfighting，andagreatstrappingwenchbelabouringtheminordertoseparatethem。\"Letthemalone，\"saidthepadrone；\"letthemfightitouthereonthelevelground。\" Thenheexplainedtomethathewishedthemtofindoutwhichwasmistress，andfalleachofthemintoherproperplace，foriftheyfoughtontheroughhillsidestheymighteasilybreakeachother\'snecks。 Wewalkedalloverthemonastery。Thedaywassteamywithfrequentshowers，andthunderstormsintheair。Theroomsweredarkandmouldy，andsmeltratherofrancidcheese，butitwasnotabadsortoframblingoldplace，andifthoroughlydoneupwouldmakeadelightfulinn。Thereisareportthatthereishiddentreasurehere。IdonotknowasingleoldcastleormonasteryinNorthItalyaboutwhichnosuchreportiscurrent，butinthepresentcasethereseemsmorethanusualground(sothehindtoldme)forbelievingthestorytobewellfounded，forthemonksdidcertainlysmeltthequartzintheneighbourhood，andasnogoldwaseverknowntoleavethemonastery，itismostlikelythatalltheenormousquantitywhichtheymusthavemadeinthecourseofsometwocenturiesisstilluponthepremises，ifonecouldonlylayone\'shandsuponit。Soreasonabledidthisseem，thatabouttwoyearsagoitwasresolvedtocallinasomnambulistorclairvoyantfromTurin，who，whenhearrivedatthespot，becameseizedwithconvulsions，betokeningofcoursethattherewastreasurenotfaroff:theseconvulsionsincreasedtillhereachedthechoirofthechapel，andhereheswooned——fallingdownasifdead，andbeingresuscitatedwithapparentdifficulty。Heafterwardsdeclaredthatitwasinthischapelthatthetreasurewashidden。Inspiteofallthis，however，thechapelhasnotbeenturnedupsidedownandransacked，perhapsfromfearofoffendingthesainttowhomitisdedicated。 Inthechapelthereareafewvotivepictures，butnotverystrikingones。Ihurriedlysketchedone，buthavefailedtodoitjustice。Thehindsawmecopyingthelittlegirlinbed，andIhadanimpressionasthoughhedidnotquiteunderstandmymotive。I toldhimIhadadearlittlegirlofmyownathome，whohadbeenalarminglyillinthespring，andthatthispictureremindedmeofher。Thismadeeverythingquitecomfortable。 WehadbroughtupourdinnerfromS。Ambrogio，andateitinwhathadbeentherefectoryofthemonastery。Thewindowswerebroken，andtheswallows，whohadbuiltupontheceilinginsidetheroom，keptflyingclosetousallthetimewewereeating。Greatmallowsandhollyhockspeeredinatthewindow，andbeyondthemtherewasaprettyDevonshire-lookingorchard。Thenoontidesunstreamedinatintervalsbetweentheshowers。 Afterdinnerwewent\"alcrestodellacollina\"——tothecrestofthehill——touseSignorBonaudo\'swords，andlookeddownuponS。 Giorio，andtheothervillagesoftheCombeofSusa。Nothingcouldbemoredelightful。Then，gettingunderthechestnuts，ImadethesketchwhichIhavealreadygiven。WhilemakingitIwasaccostedbyanunderjawedman(thereisanunusuallylargepercentageofunderjawedpeopleintheneighbourhoodofS。Ambrogio)，whoaskedwhethermytakingthissketchmustnotbeconsideredasasignthatwarwasimminent。Thepeopleinthisvalleyhavebitterandcomparativelyrecentexperienceofwar，andarealarmedatanythingwhichtheyfancymayindicateitsrecurrence。Talkingfurtherwithhim，hesaid，\"Herewehavenosignori；weneednottakeoffourhatstoanyoneexceptthepriest。Wegrowallweeat，wespinandweaveallwewear；ifalltheworldexceptourownvalleywereblottedout，itwouldmakenodifference，solongasweremainasweareandunmolested。\"Hewasawild，weird，St。JohntheBaptistlookingperson，withshaggyhair，andanAndreaMantegnesquefeelingabouthim。IgavehimapipeofEnglishtobacco，whichheseemedtorelish，andsoweparted。 IstayedaweekorsoatanotherplacenotahundredmilesfromSusa，butIwillnotnameit，forfearofcausingoffence。Itwassituatedhigh，abovethevalleyoftheDora，amongthepastures，andjustabouttheupperlimitofthechestnuts。Itoffersasummerretreat，ofwhichthepeopleinTurinavailthemselvesinconsiderablenumbers。TheinnwasamoresophisticatedonethanSignorBonaudo\'shouseatS。Ambrogio，andtherewereseveralTurinpeoplestayingthereaswellasmyself，buttherewerenoEnglish。 DuringthewholetimeIwasinthatneighbourhoodIsawnotasingleEnglish，French，orGermantourist。Thewaysoftheinn，therefore，wereexclusivelyItalian，andIhadabetteropportunityofseeingtheItaliansastheyareamongthemselvesthanIeverhadbefore。 Nothingstruckmemorethantheeasytermsonwhicheveryone，includingthewaiter，appearedtobewitheveryoneelse。This，whichinEnglandwouldbeimpossible，isherenotonlypossiblebutamatterofcourse，becausethegeneralstandardofgoodbreedingisdistinctlyhigherthanitisamongourselves。IdonotmeantosaythattherearenorudeorunmannerlyItalians，butthattherearefewerinproportionthanthereareinanyothernationwithwhichIhaveacquaintance。Thisisnottobewonderedat，fortheItalianshavehadacivilisationfornowsomethreeorfourthousandyears，whereasallothernationsare，comparativelyspeaking，newcountries，withasomethingevenyetofcolonialroughnesspervadingthem。AsthecoloniestoEngland，soisEnglandtoItalyinrespectoftheaveragestandardofcourtesyandgoodmanners。Inanewcountryeverythinghasatendencytogowildagain，manincluded；andthelongercivilisationhasexistedinanycountrythemoretrustworthyandagreeablewillitsinhabitantsbe。Thisprefaceisnecessary，asexplaininghowitispossiblethatthingscanbedoneinItalywithoutoffencewhichwouldbeintolerableelsewhere；butIconfesstofeelingratherhopelessofbeingabletodescribewhatIactuallysawwithoutgivingawrongimpressionconcerningit。 Amongthevisitorswastheheadconfidentialclerkofawell-knownMilanesehouse，withhiswifeandsister。Thesisterwasaninvalid，andsoalsowasthehusband，butthewifewasaveryprettywomanandaverymerryone。Thewaiterwasagood-lookingyoungfellowofaboutfive-and-twenty，andbetweenhimandSignoraBonvicino——forwewillsaythiswastheclerk\'sname——theresprangupaviolentflirtation，allopenandaboveboard。Thewaiterwasevidentlyveryfondofher，butsaidthemostatrociouslyimpudentthingstoherfromtimetotime。DiningundertheverandaatthenexttableIheardtheSignoracomplainthatthecutletswereburnt。Sotheywere——verybadlyburnt。Thewaiterlookedatthemforamoment——threwheracontemptuousglance，clearlyintendedtoprovokewar——\"Chinonhaappetito{17}……\"heexclaimed，andwasmovingoffwithashrugoftheshoulders。TheSignorarecognisingachallenge，roseinstantlyfromthetable，andcatchinghimbythenapeofhisneck，kickedhimdeftlydownstairsintothekitchen，bothlaughingheartily，andthehusbandandsisterjoining。Ineversawanythingmoreneatlydone。Ofcourse，inafewminutessomefreshandquiteunexceptionablecutletsmadetheirappearance。 Anothermorning，whenIcamedowntobreakfast，Ifoundanaltercationgoingonbetweenthesamepairastowhetherthelady\'snosewastoolargeornot。Itwasnotatalltoolarge。Itwasaveryprettylittlenose。Thewaiterwasmaintainingthatitwastoolarge，andtheladythatitwasnot。 OneeveningSignorBonvicinotoldmethathisemployerhadaverylargeconnectioninEngland，andthatthoughhehadneverbeeninLondon，heknewallaboutitalmostaswellasifhehad。Thegreatcentreofbusiness，hesaid，wasinRedLionSquare。Itwasherehisemployer\'sagentresided，andthiswasamoreimportantpartthaneventhecityproper。Ithrewadroportwoofcoldwateronthis，butwithoutavail。PresentlyIaskedwhatthewaiter\'snamewas，nothavingbeenabletocatchit。IaskedthisoftheSignora，andsawalittlelookonherfaceasthoughshewerenotquitepreparedtoreply。Notunderstandingthis，I repeatedmyquestion。 \"Oh!hisnameisCesare，\"wastheanswer。 \"Cesare!butthatisnotthenameIhearyoucallhimby。\" \"Well，perhapsnot；wegenerallycallhimCricco，\"{18}andshelookedasifshehadsuddenlyrememberedhavingbeentoldthatthereweresuchthingsasprigs，andmight，foraughtsheknew，beinthepresenceofoneofthesecreaturesnow。 Herhusbandcametotherescue。\"Yes，\"saidhe，\"hisrealnameisJuliusCaesar，butwecallhimCricco。Criccoeunnomedipaese； parlandocosinonsioffendelareligione。\"{19} TheRomanCatholicreligion，iflefttoitselfandnotcompelledtobeintrospective，ismorekindlyandlessgiventotakingoffencethanoutsidersgenerallybelieve。AttheSacroMonteofVaresetheyselllittleroundtinboxesthatlooklikemedals，andcontainpicturesofallthechapels。InthelidoftheboxthereisashortprintedaccountoftheSacroMonte，whichwindsupwiththewords，\"Lareligioneelostupendopanoramatiranonumerosiedallegrivisitatori。\"{20} Ourpeoplearemuchtooearnesttoallowthataviewcouldhaveanythingtodowithtakingpeopleuptothetopofahillwheretherewasacathedral，orthatpeoplecouldbe\"merry\"whileonanerrandconnectedwithreligion。 OnleavingthisplaceIwantedtosaygood-byetoSignoraBonvicino，andcouldnotfindher；afteratimeIheardshewasatthefountain，soIwentandfoundheronherkneeswashingherhusband\'sandherownclothes，withherprettyroundarmsbarenearlytotheshoulder。