第2章

Thechurchhasbeenagooddealrestoredduringthelastfewyears，andaninterestingoldchapel——withanaltarinit——atwhichmasswassaidduringatimeofplague，whilethepeoplestoodsomewayoffinameadow，hasjustbeenentirelyrenovated；butaswithsomeEnglishchurches，themorecloselyapieceofoldworkiscopiedthemorepalpablydoesthemodernspiritshowthroughit，soheretheoppositeoccurs，fortheold-worldlinessoftheplacehasnotbeenimpairedbymuchrenovation，thoughtheintentionhasbeentomakeeverythingasmodernaspossible。 IknowfewthingsmoretouchingintheirwaythantheporchofRossurachurch。Itisdatedearlyinthelastcentury，andisabsolutelywithoutornament；theflightofstepsinsideitleaduptothelevelofthefloorofthechurch。OnelovelysummerSundaymorning，passingthechurchbetimes，Isawthepeoplekneelinguponthesesteps，thechurchwithinbeingcrammed。Inthedarkerlightoftheporch，theytoldoutagainsttheskythatshowedthroughtheopenarchbeyondthem；farawaytheeyerestedonthemountains—— deepbluesavewherethesnowstilllingered。Ineversawanythingmorebeautiful——andtheseforsootharethepeoplewhomsomanyofusthinktobetterbydistributingtractsaboutProtestantismamongthem! WhileIwaslooking，therecameasoundofmusicthroughtheopendoor——thepeopleliftinguptheirvoicesandsinging，asnearasI canremember，somethingwhichonthepianowouldcomethus:- [Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven] Ilikedtheporchalmostbestunderanaspectwhichitnolongerpresents。Onesummeranopeningwasmadeinthewestwall，whichwasafterwardsclosedbecausethewindblewthroughittoomuchandmadethechurchtoocold。Whileitwasopen，onecouldsitonthechurchstepsandlookdownthroughitontothebottomoftheTicinovalley；andthroughthewindowsonecouldseetheslopesaboutDalpeandCornone。BetweenthetwowindowsthereisapictureofaustereoldS。CarloBorromeowithhishandsjoinedinprayer。 ItwasatRossurathatImadetheacquaintanceofawordwhichI havesincefoundverylargelyusedthroughoutNorthItaly。Itispronounced\"chow\"pureandsimple，butiswritten，ifwrittenatall，\"ciau，\"or\"ciao，\"the\"a\"beingkeptverybroad。Ibelievethewordisderivedfrom\"schiavo，\"aslave，which，becamecorruptedinto\"schiao，\"and\"ciao。\"Itisusedwithtwomeanings，bothofwhich，however，arededuciblefromthewordslave。Initsfirstandmorecommonuseitissimplyasalute，eitherongreetingortakingleave，andmeans，\"Iamyourveryobedientservant。\" Thus，ifonehasbeentalkingtoasmallchild，itsmotherwilltellittosay\"chow\"beforeitgoesaway，andwillthennodherheadandsay\"chow\"herself。Theotheruseisakindofpiousexpletive，intending\"Imustendureit，\"\"Iamtheslaveofahigherpower。\"ItwasinthissenseIfirsthearditatRossura。 AwomanwaswashingatafountainwhileIwaseatingmylunch。ShesaidshehadlostherdaughterinParisafewweeksearlier。\"Shewasabeautifulwoman，\"saidthebereavedmother，\"but——chow。Shehadgreattalents——chow。IhadhereducatedbythenunsofBellinzona——chow。Herknowledgeofgeographywasconsummate——chow，chow，\"&c。Here\"chow\"means\"pazienza，\"\"IhavedoneandsaidallthatIcan，andmustnowbearitasbestImay。\" Itriedtocomforther，butcoulddonothing，tillatlastitoccurredtometosay\"chow\"too。Ididso，andwasastonishedatthesoothingeffectithaduponher。Howsubtlearethelawsthatgovernconsolation!Isupposetheymustultimatelybeconnectedwithreproduction——theconsolingideabeingakindofsmallcrosswhichRE-GENERATESorRE-CREATESthesufferer。Itisimportant，therefore，thatthenewideaswithwhichtheoldaretobecrossedshoulddifferfromtheselastsufficientlytodiverttheattention，andyetnotsomuchastocauseapainfulshock。 Thereshouldbealittleshock，ortherewillbenovariationinthenewideasthataregenerated，buttheywillresemblethosethatprecededthem，andgriefwillbecontinued；theremustnotbetoogreatashockortherewillbenoillusion——noconfusionandfusionbetweenthenewsetofideasandtheold，andinconsequence，therewillbenoresultatall，or，ifany，anincreaseinmentaldiscord。Weknowverylittle，however，uponthissubject，andarecontinuallyshowntobeatfaultbyfindinganunexpectedlysmallcrossproduceawidediversionofthementalimages，whileinothercasesawideonewillproducehardlyanyresult。Sometimesagain，acrosswhichweshouldhavesaidwasmuchtoowidewillhaveanexcellenteffect。Ididnotanticipate，forexample，thatmysaying\"chow\"wouldhavedonemuchforthepoorwomanwhohadlostherdaughter；thecrossdidnotseemwideenough；shewasalready，asIthought，saturatedwith\"chow。\"Icanonlyaccountfortheeffectmyapplicationofitproducedbysupposingthewordtohavederivedsomeelementofstrangenessandnoveltyascomingfromaforeigner——justaslandwhichwillgiveapoorcrop，ifplantedwithsetsfrompotatoesthathavebeengrownforthreeorfouryearsonthissamesoil，willyetyieldexcellentlyifsimilarsetsbebroughtfromtwentymilesoff。Forthepotato，sofarasIhavestudiedit，isagood-tempered，frivolousplant，easilyamusedandeasilybored，andone，moreover，whichifbored，yawnshorribly。 AsanexampleofacrossprovingsatisfactorywhichIhadexpectedwouldbetoowide，Iwouldquotethefollowing，whichcameundermynoticewhenIwasinAmerica。Ayoungmancalleduponmeinafloodoftearsoverthelossofhisgrandmother，ofwhosedeathattheageofninety-threehehadjustheard。Icoulddonothingwithhim；Itriedalltheordinarypanaceaswithouteffect，andwasgivinghimupindespair，whenIthoughtofcrossinghimwiththewell-knownballadofWednesburyCocking。{7}Hebrightenedupinstantly，andleftmeinascheerfulastateashehadbeenbeforeinadespondingone。\"Chow\"seemstodofortheItalianswhatWednesburyCockingdidformyAmericanfriend；itisakindofsmallspiritualpick-me-up，orcupoftea。 FromRossuraIwentontoTengia，aboutahundredandfiftyfeethigherthanRossura。FromTengiathepathtoCalonico，thenextvillage，isalittlehardtofind，andaboyhadbetterbetakenfortenminutesorsobeyondTengia，Calonicochurchshowswellforsometimebeforeitisactuallyreached。Thepastureshereareveryrichinflowers，thetigerliliesbeingmoreabundantbeforethehayismown，thanperhapsevenatFusioitself。Thewholewalkislovely，andtheGribbiascawaterfall，themostgracefulintheValLeventina，isjustopposite。 HowoftenhaveInotsatabouthereintheshadesketching，andwatchedtheblueuponthemountainswhichTitianwatchedfromunderthechestnutsofCadore。Nosoundexceptthedistantwater，orthecroakofaraven，ortheboomingofthegreatgunsinthatbattlewhichisbeingfoughtoutbetweenmanandnatureontheBiaschinaandtheMontePiottino。ItisalwaysapleasuretometofeelthatIhaveknowntheValLeventinaintimatelybeforethegreatchangeinitwhichtherailwaywilleffect，andthatImayhopetoseeitafterthepresentturmoilisover。Ourdescendantsahundredyearshencewillnotthinkoftheincessantnoiseasthoughofcannonadingwithwhichweweresofamiliar。FromnowherewasitmorestrikingthanfromCalonico，theMontePiottinohavingnosoonerbecomesilentthantheBiaschinawouldopenfire，andsometimesbothwouldbefiringatonce。Posteritymaycaretoknowthatanotherandlessagreeablefeatureofthepresenttimewasthequantityofstonesthatwouldcomeflyingaboutinplaceswhichonewouldhavethoughtwereoutofrange。Allalongtheroad，forexample，betweenGiornicoandLavorgo，therewasincessantblastinggoingon，anditwassurprisingtoseetheheighttowhichstonesweresometimescarried。Thedwellersinhousesneartheblastingwouldcovertheirroofswithboughsandleavestosoftenthefallofthestones。Afewpeoplewerehurt，butmuchlessdamagewasdonethanmighthavebeenexpected。ImaymentionforthebenefitofEnglishreadersthatthetunnelsthroughMontePiottinoandtheBiaschinaaremarvelsofengineeringskill，beingbothofthemspiral；theroaddescribesacompletecircle，anddescendsrapidlyallthewhile，sothatthepointofegressasonegoesfromAirolotowardsFaidoisatamuchlowerlevelthanthatofingress。 Ifanaccidentdoeshappen，theycallitadisgrazia，thusconfirmingthesoundnessofaphilosophywhichIputforwardinanearlierwork。Everymisfortunetheyhold(andquiterightly)tobeadisgracetothepersonwhosuffersit；\"Sondisgraziato\"istheItalianfor\"Ihavebeenunfortunate。\"Iwasoncegoingtogiveapennytoapoorwomanbytheroadside，whentwootherwomenstoppedme。\"Nonmerita，\"theysaid；\"Sheisnodeservingobjectforcharity\"——thefactbeingthatshewasanidiot。Neverthelesstheywereverykindtoher。 CHAPTERV——Calonico(continued)andGiornicoOurinventionsincreaseingeometricalratio。Theyarelikelivingbeings，eachoneofwhichmaybecomeparentofadozenothers——somegoodandsomene\'er-do-weels；buttheydifferfromanimalsandvegetablesinasmuchastheynotonlyincreaseinageometricalratio，buttheperiodoftheirgestationdecreasesingeometricalratioalso。TakethismatterofAlpineroadsforexample。ForhowmanymillionsofyearswastherenoapproachtoaroadovertheSt。 Gothard，savetheuntutoredwatercoursesoftheTicinoandtheReuss，andthetrackofthebouquetinorthechamois？Forhowmanymoreagesafterthiswastherenotamereshepherd\'sorhuntsman\'spathbytheriverside——withoutsomuchasalogthrownoversoastoformarudebridge？Noonewouldprobablyhaveeverthoughtofmakingabridgeoutofhisownunaidedimagination，morethananymonkeythatweknowofhasdoneso。Butanavalancheorafloodoncesweptapineintopositionandleftitthere；onthisagenius，whowasdoubtlessthoughttobedoingsomethingveryinfamous，venturedtomakeuseofit。Anothertimeapinewasfoundnearlyacrossthestream，butnotquite，andnotquite，again，intheplacewhereitwaswanted。Asecondgenius，tothehorrorofhisfellow-tribesmen——whodeclaredthatthistimetheworldreallywouldcometoanend——shiftedthepineafewfeetsoastobringitacrossthestreamandintotheplacewhereitwaswanted。Thismanwastheinventorofbridges——hisfamilyrepudiatedhim，andhecametoabadend。Fromthistocuttingdownthepineandbringingitfromsomedistanceisaneasystep。 Toavoiddetail，letuscometotheoldRomanhorseroadovertheAlps。Thetimebetweentheshepherd\'spathandtheRomanroadisprobablyshortincomparisonwiththatbetweenthemerechamoistrackandthefirstthingthatcanbecalledapathofmen。FromtheRomanwegoontothemediaevalroadwithmorefrequentstonebridges，andfromthemediaevaltotheNapoleoniccarriageroad。 Thecloseofthelastcenturyandthefirstquarterofthispresentonewasthegreateraforthemakingofcarriageroads。Fiftyyearshavehardlypassedandherewearealreadyintheageoftunnellingandrailroads。Thefirstperiod，fromthechamoistracktothefootroad，wasoneofmillionsofyears；thesecond，fromthefirstfootroadtotheRomanmilitaryway，wasoneofmanythousands；thethird，fromtheRomantothemediaeval，wasperhapsathousand；fromthemediaevaltotheNapoleonic，fivehundred； fromtheNapoleonictotherailroad，fifty。Whatwillcomenextweknownot，butitshouldcomewithintwentyyears，andwillprobablyhavesomethingtodowithelectricity。 Itfollowsbyaneasyprocessofreasoningthat，afteranothercoupleofhundredyearsorso，greatsweepingchangesshouldbemadeseveraltimesinanhour，orindeedinasecond，orfractionofasecond，tilltheypassunnoticedastherevolutionsweundergointheembryonicstages，orarefeltsimplyasvibrations。Thiswouldundoubtedlybethecasebutfortheexistenceofafrictionwhichinterferesbetweentheoryandpractice。Thisfrictioniscausedpartlybythedisturbanceofvestedinterestswhicheveryinventioninvolves，andwhichwillbefoundintolerablewhenmenbecomemillionairesandpaupersalternatelyonceafortnight—— livingoneweekinapalaceandthenextinaworkhouse，andhavingperpetuallytobesoldup，andthentobuyanewhouseandrefurnish，&c——sothatartificialmeansforstoppinginventionswillbeadopted；andpartlybythefactthatthoughallinventionsbreedingeometricalratio，yetsomemultiplymorerapidlythanothers，andthebackwardnessofoneartwillimpedetheforwardnessofanother。Atanyrate，sofarasIcansee，thepresentisabouttheonlycomfortabletimeforamantolivein，thateithereverhasbeenoreverwillbe。Thepastwastooslow，andthefuturewillbemuchtoofast。 AnotherthingwhichwedonotbearinmindwhenthinkingoftheAlpsistheirnarrowness，andthesmallextentofgroundtheyreallycover。FromGoschenen，forexample，toAiroloseemsaverylongdistance。OnemustgouptotheDevil\'sBridge，andthentoAndermatt。FromherebyHospenthaltothetopofthepassseemsalongway，andagainitisalongwaydowntoAirolo；butallthiswouldeasilygoontothegroundbetweenKensingtonandStratford。 FromGoschenentoAndermattisaboutasfarasfromHollandHousetoHydeParkCorner。FromAndermatttoHospenthalismuchthesamedistanceasfromHydeParkCornertotheOxfordStreetendofTottenhamCourtRoad。FromHospenthaltothehospiceonthetopofthepassisaboutequaltothespacebetweenTottenhamCourtRoadandBow；andfromBowyoumustgodownthreethousandfeetofzig- zagsintoStratford，forAirolo。Ihavemadethedeviationfromthestraightlineaboutthesameinonecaseasintheother；ineach，thedirectdistanceisnineandahalfmiles。ThewholedistancefromFluelen，ontheLakeofLucerne，toBiasca，whichisalmostonthesamelevelwiththeLagoMaggiore，isonlyfortymiles，andcouldbeallgotinbetweenLondonandLewes，whilefromLucernetoLocarno，actuallyontheLagoMaggioreitself，wouldgo，withagoodlargemargintospare，betweenLondonandDover。Wecanhardlyfancy，however，peoplegoingbackwardsandforwardstobusinessdailybetweenFluelenandBiasca，assomedoubtlessdobetweenLondonandLewes。 ButhowsmallallEuropeis。Weseemalmostabletotakeitinatasinglecoupd\'oeil。FromMontBlancwecanseethemountainsontheParissideofDijonontheonehand，andthoseaboveFlorenceandBolognaontheother。WhataholewouldnotbemadeinEuropeifthisgreateyefulwerescoopedoutofit。 Thefactis(butitissoobviousthatIamashamedtosayanythingaboutit)，scienceisrapidlyreducingspacetothesameunsatisfactorystatethatithasalreadyreducedtime。Takelamb: wecangetlamballtheyearround。Thisisperpetualspring；butperpetualspringisnospringatall；itisnotaseason；therearenomoreseasons，andbeingnoseasons，thereisnotime。Takerhubarb，again。Rhubarbtothephilosopheristhebeginningofautumn，ifindeed，thephilosophercanseeanythingasthebeginningofanything。Ifanyoneaskswhy，Isupposethephilosopherwouldsaythatrhubarbisthebeginningofthefruitseason，whichisclearlyautumnal，accordingtoourpresentclassification。Fromrhubarbtothegreengooseberrythestepissosmallastorequirenobridging——withone\'seyesshut，andplentyofcreamandsugar，theyarealmostindistinguishable——butthegooseberryisquiteanautumnalfruit，andonlyalittleearlierthanapplesandplums，whichlastarealmostwinter； clearly，therefore，forscientificpurposesrhubarbisautumnal。 Assoonaswecanfindgradations，orasufficientnumberofunitinglinksbetweentwothings，theybecomeunitedormadeonething，andanyclassificationofthemmustbeillusory。 Classificationisonlypossiblewherethereisashockgiventothesensesbyreasonofaperceiveddifference，which，ifitisconsiderable，canbeexpressedinwords。Whentheworldwasyoungerandlessexperienced，peoplewereshockedatwhatappearedgreatdifferencesbetweenlivingforms；butspecies，whetherofanimalsorplants，arenowseentobesounited，eitherinferentiallyorbyactualfindingofthelinks，thatallclassificationisfelttobearbitrary。Theseasonsarelikespecies——theywereatonetimethoughttobeclearlymarked，andcapableofbeingclassifiedwithsomeapproachtosatisfaction。Itisnowseenthattheyblendeitherinthepresentorthepastinsensiblyintooneanother，andcannotbeclassifiedexceptbycuttingGordianknotsinawaywhichnonebutplainsensiblepeoplecantolerate。Strictlyspeaking，thereisonlyoneplace，onetime，oneaction，andoneindividualorthing；ofthisthingorindividualeachoneofusisapart。Itisperplexing，butitisphilosophy；andmodemphilosophylikemodernmusicisnothingifitisnotperplexing。 Asimpleverificationoftheautumnalcharacterofrhubarbmay，atfirstsight，appeartobefoundinCoventGardenMarket，wherewecanactuallyseetherhubarbtowardstheendofOctober。Butthiswayoflookingatthematterarguesafatalineptitudeforthepursuitoftruephilosophy。ItwouldbeamostseriouserrortoregardtherhubarbthatwillappearinCoventGardenMarketnextOctoberasbelongingtotheautumnthensupposedtobecurrent。 Practically，nodoubt，itdoesso，buttheoreticallyitmustbeconsideredasthefirst-fruitsoftheautumn(ifany)ofthefollowingyear，whichbeginsbeforetheprecedingsummer(or，perhaps，morestrictly，theprecedingsummerbutone——andhence，butanynumber)，haswellended。Whetherthis，however，issoorno，therhubarbcanbeseeninCoventGarden，andIamafraiditmustbeadmittedthattothephilosophicallymindedtherelurkswithinitatheoryofevolution，andevenPantheism，assurelyasTheismwaslurkinginBishopBerkeley\'starwater。 Toreturn，however，toCalonico。Thechurchisbuiltontheextremeedgeofacliffthathasbeenformedbythebreakingawayofalargefragmentofthemountain。Thisfragmentmaybeseenlyingdownbelowshatteredintocountlesspieces。Thereisafissureinthecliffwhichsuggeststhatatnoverydistantdaysomemorewillfollow，andIamafraidcarrythechurchtoo。Myfavouriteviewofthechurchisfromtheothersideofthesmallvalleywhichseparatesitfromthevillage，(seeprecedingpage)。 Anotherverygoodviewisfromcloseruptothechurch。 ThecuratoofCalonicowasverykindtome。Wehadlongtalkstogether。IcouldseeitpainedhimthatwasnotaCatholic。Hecouldneverquitegetoverthis，buthewasverygoodandtolerant。 HewasanxioustobeassuredthatIwasnotoneofthoseEnglishwhowentaboutdistributingtracts，andtryingtoconvertpeople。 ThisofcoursewasthelastthingIshouldhavewishedtodo；andwhenItoldhimso，heviewedmewithsorrow，buthenceforthwithoutalarm。 AllthetimeIwaswithhimIfelthowmuchIwishedcouldbeaCatholicinCatholiccountries，andaProtestantinProtestantones。Surelytherearesomethingswhich，likepolitics，aretooserioustobetakenquiteseriously。Surtoutpointdezeleisnotthesayingofacynic，buttheconclusionofasensibleman；andthemoredeepourfeelingisaboutanymatter，themoreoccasionhavewetobeonourguardagainstzeleinthisparticularrespect。 Thereisbutonestepfromthe\"earnest\"tothe\"intense。\"WhenSt。Paultoldustobeallthingstoallmenheletinthethinendofthewedge，nordidhemarkittosayhowfaritwastobedriven。 IhaveItalianfriendswhomIgreatlyvalue，andwhotellmetheythinkIflirtjustatrifletoomuchwithilpartitonerowhenIaminItaly，fortheyknowthatinthemainIthinkastheydo。 \"Thesepeople，\"theysay，\"makethemselvesveryagreeabletoyou，andshowyoutheirsmoothside；we，whoseemoreofthem，knowtheirroughone。Knuckleundertothem，andtheywillperhapscondescendtopatroniseyou；haveanyindividualityofyourown，andtheyknowneitherscruplenorremorseintheirattemptstogetyououtoftheirway。\"Ilprete，\"theysay，withasignificantlook，\"esempreprete。Forthefutureletushaveprofessorsandmenofscienceinsteadofpriests。\"Ismiletomyselfatthislast，andreply，thatIamaforeignercomeamongthemforrecreation，andanxioustokeepclearoftheirinternaldiscords。 Idonotwishtocutmyselfofffromonesideoftheirnationalcharacter——asidewhich，insomerespects，isnolessinterestingthantheonewithwhichIsupposeIamonthewholemoresympathetic。IfIwereanItalian，Ishouldfeelboundtotakeaside；asitis，Iwishtoleaveallquarrellingbehindme，havingasmuchofthatinEnglandassufficestokeepmeingoodhealthandtemper。 InoldtimespeoplegavetheirspiritualandintellectualsoptoNemesis。Evenwhenmostpositive，theyadmittedapercentageofdoubt。Mr。Tennysonhassaidwell，\"Therelivesmoredoubt\"——I quotefrommemory——\"inhonestfaith，believeme，thaninhalfthe\" systemsofphilosophy，orwordstothateffect。Thevictorhadaslaveathisearduringhistriumph；theslavesduringtheRomanSaturnaliadressedintheirmasters\'clothes，satatmeatwiththem，toldthemoftheirfaults，andblackedtheirfacesforthem。 Theymadetheirmasterswaituponthem。Intheagesoffaith，anassdressedinsacerdotalrobeswasgravelyconductedtothecathedralchoiratacertainseason，andmasswassaidbeforehim，andhymnschanteddiscordantly。TheelderD\'Israeli，fromwhomI amquoting，writes:\"Onotheroccasions，theyputburntoldshoestofumeinthecensers；ranaboutthechurchleaping，singing，dancing，andplayingatdiceuponthealtar，whileaBOYBISHOPorPOPEOFFOOLSburlesquedthedivineservice；\"andlateronhesays: \"Solateas1645，apupilofGassendi，writingtohismasterwhathehimselfwitnessedatAixonthefeastofInnocents，says——\'I haveseeninsomemonasteriesinthisprovinceextravagancessolemnised，whichpaganswouldnothavepractised。Neithertheclergynortheguardiansindeedgotothechoironthisday，butallisgivenuptothelaybrethren，thecabbagecutters，errandboys，cooks，scullions，andgardeners；inaword，allthemenialsfilltheirplacesinthechurch，andinsistthattheyperformtheofficesproperfortheday。Theydressthemselveswithallthesacerdotalornaments，buttorntorags，orweartheminsideout； theyholdintheirhandsthebooksreversedorsideways，whichtheypretendtoreadwithlargespectacleswithoutglasses，andtowhichtheyfixtherindsofscoopedoranges……；particularlywhiledanglingthecenserstheykeepshakingtheminderision，andlettingtheashesflyabouttheirheadsandfaces，oneagainsttheother。Inthisequipagetheyneithersinghymnsnorpsalmsnormasses，butmumbleacertaingibberishasshrillandsqueakingasaherdofpigswhippedontomarket。Thenonsenseversestheychantaresingularlybarbarous:- Haecestclaradies，clararumclaradierum，Haecestfestadiesfestarumfestadierum。\'\"{8} Faithwasfarmoreassuredinthetimeswhenthespiritualsaturnaliawereallowedthannow。Theirreverencewhichwasnotdangerousthen，isnowintolerable。Itisabadsignforaman\'speaceinhisownconvictionswhenhecannotstandturningthecanvasofhislifeoccasionallyupsidedown，orreversingitinamirror，aspaintersdowiththeirpicturesthattheymayjudgethebetterconcerningthem。IwouldpersuadeallJews，Mohammedans，Comtists，andfreethinkerstoturnhighAnglicans，orbetterstill，downrightCatholicsforaweekineveryyear，andIwouldsendpeoplelikeMr。GladstonetoattendMr。Bradlaugh\'slecturesintheforenoon，andtheGrecianpantomimeintheevening，twoorthreetimeseverywinter。IshouldperhapstellthemthattheGrecianpantomimehasnothingtodowithGreekplays。TheylittleknowhowmuchmorekeenlytheywouldrelishtheirnormalopinionsduringtherestoftheyearforthelittlespiritualoutingwhichIwouldprescribeforthem，which，afterall，isbutanotherphaseofthewisesaying——Surtoutpointdezele。St。Paulattemptedanobviouslyhopelesstask(astheChurchofRomeverywellunderstands)whenhetriedtoputdownseasonarianism。Peoplemustandwillgotochurchtobealittlebetter，tothetheatretobealittlenaughtier，totheRoyalInstitutiontobealittlemorescientific，thantheyareinactuallife。Itisonlybypulsationsofgoodness，naughtiness，andwhateverelseweaffectthatwecangetonatall。Igrantthatwheninhisoffice，amanshouldbeexactandprecise，butourholidaysareourgarden，andtoomuchprecisionhereisamistake。 Surelytruces，withoutevenanarrierepenseeofdifferenceofopinion，betweenthosewhoarecompelledtotakewidelydifferentsidesduringthegreaterpartoftheirlives，mustbeofinfiniteservicetothosewhocanenteronthem。Therearefewmerelyspiritualpleasurescomparabletothatderivedfromthetemporarylayingdownofaquarrel，eventhoughwemayknowthatitmustberenewedshortly。ItisagreatgrieftomethatthereisnoplacewhereIcangoamongMr。Darwin，ProfessorsHuxley，Tyndall，andRayLankester，MissBuckley，Mr。Romanes，Mr。Allen，andotherswhomIcannotcalltomindatthismoment，asIcangoamongtheItalianpriests。Irememberinonemonastery(butthiswasnotintheCantonTicino)thenovicetaughtmehowtomakesacramentalwafers，andIplayedhimHandelontheorganaswellasIcould。I toldhimthatHandelwasaCatholic；hesaidhecouldtellthatbyhismusicatonce。Thereisnochanceofgettingamongourscientistsinthisway。 SomefriendssayIwastellingaliewhenItoldthenoviceHandelwasaCatholic，andoughtnottohavedoneso。Imakeitaruletoswallowafewgnatsaday，lestIshouldcometostrainatthem，andsoboltcamels；butthewholequestionoflyingisdifficult。 WhatIS\"lying\"？Turningformoralguidancetomycousinstheloweranimals，whoseunsophisticatednatureproclaimswhatGodhastaughtthemwithadirectnesswemaysometimesstudy，Ifindtheploverlyingwhensheluresusfromheryoungonesunderthefictionofabrokenwing。IsGodangry，thinkyou，withthisprettydeviationfromtheletterofstrictaccuracy？orwasitnotHewhowhisperedtohertotellthefalsehood——totellitwithacircumstance，withoutconscientiousscruple，notonceonly，buttomakeapracticeofit，soastobeaplausible，habitual，andprofessionalliarforsomesixweeksorsointheyear？Iimagineso。WhenIwasyoungIusedtoreadingoodbooksthatitwasGodwhotaughtthebirdtomakehernest，andifsoHeprobablytaughteachspeciestheotherdomesticarrangementsbestsuitedtoit。Ordidthenest-buildinginformationcomefromGod，andwasthereaneviloneamongthebirdsalsowhotaughtthematanyratetosteerclearofpriggishness？ Thinkofthespideragain——anuglycreature，butIsupposeGodlikesit。Whatameanandodiouslieisthatwebwhichnaturalistsextolassuchamarvelofingenuity! OnceonasummerafternooninafarcountryImetoneofthoseorchidswhomakeittheirbusinesstoimitateaflywiththeirpetals。Thislietheydisposesocunninglythatrealflies，thinkingthehoneyisbeingalreadyplundered，passthemwithoutmolestingthem。Watchingintentlyandkeepingverystill，methoughtIheardthisorchidspeakingtotheoffspringwhichshefeltwithinher，thoughIsawthemnot。\"Mychildren，\"sheexclaimed，\"Imustsoonleaveyou；thinkuponthefly，mylovedones，forthisistruth；clingtothisgreatthoughtinyourpassagethroughlife，foritistheonethingneedful；oncelosesightofitandyouarelost!\"Overandoveragainshesangthisburdeninasmallstillvoice，andsoIlefther。ThenstraightwayIcameuponsomebutterflieswhoseprofessionitwastopretendtobelieveinallmannerofvitaltruthswhichintheirinnerpracticetheyrejected；thus，assertingthemselvestobecertainotherandhatefulbutterflieswhichnobirdwilleatbyreasonoftheirabominablesmell，thesecunningonesconcealtheirownsweetness，andlivelonginthelandandseegooddays。No:lyingissodeeplyrootedinnaturethatwemayexpelitwithafork，andyetitwillalwayscomebackagain:itislikethepoor，wemusthaveitalwayswithus；wemustalleatapeckofmoraldirtbeforewedie。 Alldependsuponwhoitisthatislying。Onemanmaystealahorsewhenanothermaynotlookoverahedge。Thegoodmanwhotellsnolieswittinglytohimselfandisneverunkindly，maylieandlieandliewheneverhechoosestootherpeople，andhewillnotbefalsetoanyman:hisliesbecometruthsastheypassintothehearers\'ear。Ifamandeceiveshimselfandisunkind，thetruthisnotinhim，itturnstofalsehoodwhileyetinhismouth，likethequailsintheWildernessofSinai。Howthisissoorwhy，Iknownot，butthattheLordhathmercyonwhomHewillhavemercyandwhomHewillethHehardeneth。 MyItalianfriendsaredoubtlessinthemainrightaboutthepriests，buttherearemanyexceptions，astheythemselvesgladlyadmit。FormyownpartIhavefoundthecuratointhesmallsubalpinevillagesofNorthItalytobemoreoftenthannotakindlyexcellentmantowhomIamattractedbysympathiesdeeperthananymeresuperficialdifferencesofopinioncancounteract。 Withmonks，however，asageneralruleIamlessabletogeton: nevertheless，Ihavereceivedmuchcourtesyatthehandsofsome。 Myyoungfriendthenovicewasdelightful——onlyitwassosadtothinkofthefuturethatisbeforehim。HewantedtoknowallaboutEngland，andwhenItoldhimitwasanisland，claspedhishandsandsaid，\"OhcheProvvidenza!\"Hetoldmehowtheotheryoungmenofhisownageplaguedhimashetrudgedhisroundshighupamongthemostdistanthamletsbeggingalmsforthepoor。\"Beagoodfellow，\"theywouldsaytohim，\"dropallthisnonsenseandcomebacktous，andwewillneverplagueyouagain。\"Thenhewouldturnuponthemandputtheirwordsfromhim。Ofcoursemysympathieswerewiththeotheryoungmenratherthanwithhim，butitwasimpossiblenottobesorryforthemannerinwhichhehadbeenhumbuggedfromthedayofhisbirth，tillhewasnowincapableofseeingthingsfromanyotherstandpointthanthatofauthority。 WhathesaidtomeaboutknowingthatHandelwasaCatholicbyhismusic，putmeinmindofwhatanothergoodCatholiconcesaidtomeaboutapicture。HewasaFrenchmanandverynice，butadevot，andanxioustoconvertme。Hepaidafewdays\'visittoLondon，soIshowedhimtheNationalGallery。WhilethereIpointedouttohimSebastiandelPiombo\'spictureoftheraisingofLazarusasoneofthesupposedmasterpiecesofourcollection。Hehadtheproperorthodoxfitofadmirationoverit，andthenwewentthroughtheotherrooms。AfterawhilewefoundourselvesbeforeWest\'spictureof\"Christhealingthesick。\"MyFrenchfrienddidnot，I suppose，examineitverycarefully，atanyratehebelievedhewasagainbeforetheraisingofLazarusbySebastiandelPiombo；hepausedbeforeitandhadhisfitofadmirationoveragain:thenturningtomehesaid，\"Ah!youwouldunderstandthispicturebetterifyouwereaCatholic。\"Ididnottellhimofthemistakehehadmade，butIthoughtevenaProtestantafteracertainamountofexperiencewouldlearntoseesomedifferencebetweenBenjaminWestandSebastiandelPiombo。 FromCalonicoIwentdownintothemainroadandwalkedtoGiornico，takingtherightbankoftheriverfromthebridgeatthetopoftheBiaschina。Notasodoftherailwaywasasyetturned。 AtGiornicoIvisitedthegrandoldchurchofS。Nicolao，which，thoughalaterfoundationthanthechurchatMairengo，retainsitsoriginalcondition，andappears，therefore，tobemuchtheolderofthetwo。Thestonesareverymassive，andthecoursesarehereandthereirregularasinCyclopeanwalls；theendwallisnotbondedintothesidewallsbutsimplybuiltbetweenthem；themaindoorisveryfine，andthereisasidedooralsoverygood。Therearetwoaltarsoneabovetheother，asinthechurchesofS。AbbondioandS。CristoforoatComo，butIcouldnotmaketheloweraltarintelligibleinmysketch，andindeedcouldhardlyseeit，sowasobligedtoleaveitout。Theremainsofsomeveryearlyfrescoescanbeseen，butIdidnotthinkthemremarkable。Altogether，however，thechurchisonewhichnooneshouldmissseeingwhotakesaninterestinearlyarchitecture。 Whilepaintingthestudyfromwhichthefollowingsketchistaken，Iwasstruckwiththewonderfullyvividgreenwhichthewhitewashedvaultofthechancelandthearchdividingthechancelfromthebodyofthechurchtookbywayofreflectionfromthegrassandtreesoutside。Itisnoteasyatfirsttoseehowthegreenmanagestofinditswayinsidethechurch，butthegrassseemstogetineverywhere。Ihadalreadyoftenseengreenreflectedfrombrilliantpasturageontotheshadowundertheeavesofwhitewashedhouses，butIneversawitsuffuseawholeinteriorasitdoesonafinesummer\'sdayatGiornico。IdonotremembertohaveseenthiseffectinEngland。 Lookingupagainagainstthemountainthroughtheopendoorofthechurchwhenthesunwasinacertainposition，Icouldseeaninfinityofinsectlifeswarmingthroughouttheair。Noonecouldhavesuspecteditsexistence，tillthesun\'sraysfellonthewingsofthesesmallcreaturesataproperangle；onthistheybecamerevealedagainstthedarknessofthemountainbehindthem。Theswallowsthatwereflyingamongthemcannothavetohuntthem，theyneedonlyflywiththeirmouthswideopenandtheymustrunagainstasmanyaswillbegoodforthem。Isawthisincrediblymultitudinousswarmextendingtoagreatheight，andamsatisfiedthatitwasnomorethanwhatisalwayspresentduringthesummermonths，thoughitisonlyvisibleincertainlights。TotheseminutecreaturesthespacebetweenthemountainsonthetwosidesoftheTicinovalleymustbeasgreatasthatbetweenEnglandandAmericatoacodfish。Many，doubtless，liveinthemid-air，andnevertouchthebottomorsidesofthevalley，exceptatbirthanddeath，ifthen。Nodoubtsomeatmosphericeffectsofhazeonasummer\'safternoonareduetonothingbuttheseinsects。What，again，dothesmallerofthemliveupon？Ongerms，whichtothemarecomfortablemouthfuls，thoughtousinvisibleevenwithamicroscope？ IfindnothingmoreinmynotesaboutGiornicoexceptthatthepeopleareveryhandsome，and，asIthought，ofaRomantype。TheplacewasaRomanmilitarystation，butitdoesnotfollowthatthesoldierswereRomans；nevertheless，thereisastrainofbullet- headedbloodintheplace。AlsoIrememberbeingtoldin1869thattwobearshadbeenkilledinthemountainsaboveGiornicotheprecedingyear。AtGiornicothevinebeginstogrowlustily，andwineismade。Thevinesaretrellised，andlookingdownuponthemonewouldthinkonecouldwalkuponthemasuponasolidsurface，socloselyandluxuriantlydotheygrow。 FromGiornicoIbegantoturnmystepshomewardincompanywithanengineerwhowasalsoabouttowalkbacktoFaido，butweresolvedtotakeChironicoonourway，andkeptthereforetotherightbankoftheriver。AfteraboutthreeorfourkilometresfromGiornicowereachedChironico，whichiswellplaceduponafilled-uplakeandenviedasapaesericco，butisnotsocaptivatingassomeothers。HenceweascendedtillatlastwereachedGribbio(3960 ft。)，acollectionofchaletsinhabitedonlyforashorttimeintheyear，butaniceplaceinsummer，richingentiansandsulphur- colouredanemones。FromGribbiothereisapathtoDalpe，offeringnodifficultywhateverandperfectinitsway。Onthisoccasion，however，wewentstraightbacktoFaidobyarathershorterwaythantheordinarypath，andthiscertainlywasalittledifficult，orasmycompanioncalledit，\"untantinodifficoltoso，\"inoneortwoplaces；Iatleastdidnotquitelikethem。 AnotherdayIwenttoLavorgo，belowCalonico，andthenceuptoAnzonico。ThechurchandchurchyardatAnzonicoareverygood； fromAnzonicothereisapathtoCavagnago——whichisalsofullofgoodbitsforsketching——andSobrio。ThehighestvillagesintheimmediateneighbourhoodofFaidoareCampelloandMolare；theycanbeseenfromthemarket-placeofthetown，andarewellworththetroubleofaclimb。 CHAPTERVI——PioraAnexcursionwhichmaybeverywellmadefromFaidoistotheValPiora，whichIhavealreadymorethanoncementioned。Thereisalargehotelherewhichhasbeenopenedsomeyears，buthasnothithertoprovedthesuccesswhichitwashopeditwouldbe。Ihavestayedtheretwoorthreetimesandfounditverycomfortable； doubtless，nowthatSignorLombardioftheHotelProsahastakenit，itwillbecomeamorepopularplaceofresort。 ItookatrapfromFaidotoAmbri，andthencewalkedovertoQuinto；herethepathbeginstoascend，andafteranhourRoncoisreached。ThereisahouseatRoncowhererefreshmentsandexcellentFaidobeercanbehad。TheoldladywhokeepsthehousewouldmakeaperfectFate；Isawhersittingatherwindowspinning，andlookingdownovertheTicinovalleyasthoughitweretheworldandshewerespinningitsdestiny。Shehadasomewhatsternexpression，thinlips，iron-greyeyes，andanaquilinenose； herscantylocksstraggledfromunderthehandkerchiefwhichsheworeroundherhead。Heremploymentandthewistfulfar-awaylookshecastupontheexpansebelowmadeaveryfineensemble。\"Shewouldhaveafforded，\"asSirWalterScottsays，\"astudyforaRembrandt，hadthatcelebratedpainterexistedattheperiod，\"{9} butshemusthavebeenasmart-lookinghandsomegirlonce。 Shebrightenedupinconversation。ItalkedaboutPiora，whichI alreadyknew，andtheLagoTom，thehighestofthethreelakes。 ShesaidsheknewtheLagoTom。Isaidlaughingly，\"Oh，Ihavenodoubtyoudo。We\'vehadmanyagooddayattheLagoTom，Iknow。\" Shelookeddownatonce。 Inspiteofhernearlyeightyyearsshewasactiveasawomanofforty，andaltogethershewasaverygrandoldlady。Herhouseisscrupulouslyclean。WhileIwatchedherspinning，Ithoughtofwhatmustsooftenoccurtosummervisitors。Imeanwhatsortofalook-outtheoldwomanmusthaveinwinter，whenthewindroarsandwhistles，andthesnowdrivesdownthevalleywithafuryofwhichweinEnglandcanhavelittleconception。Whataplacetoseeasnowstormfrom!andwhataplacefromwhichtosurveythelandscapenextmorningafterthestormisoverandtheairiscalmandbrilliant。Therearesuchmornings:Isawoneonce，butIwasatthebottomofthevalleyandnothighup，asatRonco。Roncowouldtakealittlesuneveninmidwinter，butatthebottomofthevalleythereisnosunforweeksandweekstogether；allisindeepshadowbelow，thoughtheupperhillsidesmaybeseentohavethesunuponthem。Iwalkedonceonafrostywinter\'smorningfromAirolotoGiornico，andcancalltomindnothinginitswaymorebeautiful:everythingwaslockedinfrost——therewasnotawaterwheelbutwassheetedandcoatedwithice:theroadwashardasgranite——allwasquietandseenasthroughadarkbutincrediblytransparentmedium。NearPiottaImetthewholevillagedraggingalargetree；thereweremanymenandwomendraggingatit，buttheyhadtopullhardandtheyweresilent；asIpassedthemIthoughtwhatcomely，well-begottenpeopletheywere。Then，lookingup，therewasasky，cloudlessandofthedeepestblue，againstwhichthesnow-cladmountainsstoodoutsplendidly。Noonewillregretawalkinthesevalleysduringthedepthofwinter。ButIshouldhavelikedtohavelookeddownfromthesunintothesunlessness，astheoldFatewomanatRoncocandowhenshesitsinwinteratherwindow；oragain，Ishouldliketoseehowthingswouldlookfromthissamewindowonaleadenmorninginmidwinteraftersnowhasfallenheavilyandtheskyismurkyandmuchdarkerthantheearth。Whenthestormisatitsheight，thesnowmustsearchandsearchandsearcheventhroughthedoublewindowswithwhichthehousesareprotected。Itmustrestupontheframesofthepicturesofsaints，andofthesister\'s\"grab，\"andofthelasthoursofCountUgolino，whichadornthewallsoftheparlour。NowonderthereisaS。MariadellaNeve——a\"St。MaryoftheSnow\"；butIdowonderthatshehasnotbeenpainted。 FromRoncothepathkeepslevelandthendescendsalittlesoastocrossthestreamthatcomesdownfromPiora。ThisisnearthevillageofAltanca，thechurchofwhichlooksremarkablywellfromhere。Thenthereisanhourandahalf\'srapidascent，andatlastallonasuddenonefindsone\'sselfontheLagoRitom，closetothehotel。 Thelakeisaboutamile，oramileandahalf，long，andhalfamilebroad。Itis6000feetabovethesea，verydeepatthelowerend，anddoesnotfreezewherethestreamissuesfromit，sothatthemagnificenttroutinthe，lakecangetairandlivethroughthewinter。Inmanyotherlakes，asforexampletheLagodiTremorgio，theycannotdothis，andhenceperish，thoughthelakeshavebeenrepeatedlystocked。ThetroutintheLagoRitomaresaidtobethefinestintheworld，andcertainlyIknownonesofinemyself。 Theygrowtobeaslargeasmoderate-sizedsalmon，andhaveadeepredflesh，veryfirmandfullofflavour。IhadtwocutletsoffoneforbreakfastandshouldhavesaidtheyweresalmonunlessI hadknownotherwise。Inwinter，whenthelakeisfrozenover，thepeoplebringtheirhayfromthefartherLakeofCadagnoinsledgesacrosstheLakeRitom。Here，again，wintermustbeworthseeing，butonaroughsnowydayPioramustbeanawfulplace。Thereareafewstuntedpinesnearthehotel，butthehillsidesareforthemostpartbareandgreen。Piorainfactisafinebreezyopenuplandvalleyofsingularbeauty，andwithasweetatmosphereofcowaboutit；itisrichinrhododendrons，andallmannerofAlpineflowers，justatriflebleak，butasbracingastheEngadineitself。 ThefirstnightIwaseverinPioratherewasabrilliantmoon，andtheunruffledsurfaceofthelaketookthereflectionofthemountains。Icouldseethecattleamileoff，andhearthetinklingoftheirbellswhichdancedmultitudinouslybeforetheearasfirefliescomeandgobeforetheeyes；forallthroughafinesummer\'snightthecattlewillfeedasthoughitwereday。A littleabovethelakeIcameuponamaninacavebeforeafurnace，burninglime，andhesatlookingintothefirewithhisbacktothemoonlight。Hewasaquietmoodyman，andIamafraidIboredhim，forIcouldgethardlyanythingoutofhimbut\"Ohaltro\"——politebutnotcommunicative。SoafterawhileIlefthimwithhisfaceburnishedaswithgoldfromthefire，andhisbacksilverwiththemoonbeams；behindhimwerethepasturesandthereflectionsinthelakeandthemountains；andthedistantcowbellswereringing。 ThenIwanderedontillIcametothechapelofS。Carlo；andinafewminutesfoundmyselfontheLagodiCadagno。HereIheardthattherewerepeople，andthepeoplewerenotsomuchasleepasthesimplepeasantryoftheseuplandvalleysareexpectedtobebynineo\'clockintheevening。FornowwasthetimewhentheyhadmovedupfromRonco，Altanca，andothervillagesinsomenumberstocutthehay，andwerelivingforafortnightorthreeweeksinthechaletsupontheLagodiCadagno。AsIhavesaid，thereisachapel，butIdoubtwhetheritisattendedduringthisseasonwiththeregularitywithwhichtheparishchurchesofRonco，Altanca，&c。，areattendedduringtherestoftheyear。Theyoungpeople，I amsure，liketheseannualvisitstothehighplaces，andwillbehardlyweanedfromthem。Happilythehaywillbealwaysthere，andwillhavetobecutbysomeone，andtheoldpeoplewillsendtheyoungones。 AsIwasthinkingofthesethings，Ifoundmyselfgoingoffintoadoze，andthoughttheburnishedmanfromthefurnacecameupandsatbesideme，andlaidhishanduponmyshoulder。ThenIsawthegreenslopesthatriseallroundthelakeweremuchhigherthanI hadthought；theywentupthousandsoffeet，andtherewerepineforestsuponthem，whiletwolargeglacierscamedowninstreamsthatendedinaprecipiceofice，fallingsheerintothelake。Theedgesofthemountainsagainsttheskywereruggedandfullofclefts，throughwhichIsawthickcloudsofdustbeingblownbythewindasthoughfromtheothersideofthemountains。 AndasIlooked，Isawthatthiswasnotdust，butpeoplecomingincrowdsfromtheotherside，butsosmallastobevisibleatfirstonlyasdust。Andthepeoplebecamemusicians，andthemountainousamphitheatreahugeorchestra，andtheglaciersweretwonoblearmiesofwomen-singersinwhiterobes，rangedtierabovetierbehindeachother，andthepinesbecameorchestralplayers，whilethethickdust-likecloudofchorus-singerskeptpouringinthroughthecleftsintheprecipicesininconceivablenumbers。WhenI turnedmytelescopeuponthemIsawtheywerecrowdeduptotheextremeedgeofthemountains，sothatIcouldseeunderneaththesolesoftheirbootsastheirlegsdangledintheair。Inthemidstofall，aprecipicethatrosefromoutoftheglaciersshapeditselfsuddenlyintoanorgan，andtherewasonewhosefaceIwellknewsittingatthekeyboard，smilingandpluminghimselflikeabirdashethunderedforthagiantfuguebywayofoverture。I heardthegreatpedalnotesinthebassstalkmajesticallyupanddown，liketheraysoftheAurorathatgoaboutuponthefaceoftheheavensoffthecoastofLabrador。Thenpresentlythepeopleroseandsangthechorus\"Venuslaughingfromtheskies；\"buterethesoundhadwelldiedaway，Iawoke，andallwaschanged；alightfleecycloudhadfilledthewholebasin，butIstillthoughtI heardasoundofmusic，andascampering-offofgreatcrowdsfromthepartwheretheprecipicesshouldbe。Themusicwentthus:- {10} [Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven] Byandbythecantering，gallopingmovementbecameatrottingone，thus:- [Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven] AfterthatIheardnomorebutalittlesingingfromthechalets，andturnedhomewards。WhenIgottothechapelofS。Carlo，Iwasinthemoonlightagain，andwhennearthehotel，Ipassedthemanatthemouthofthefurnacewiththemoonstillgleaminguponhisback，andthefireuponhisface，andhewasverygraveandquiet。 NextmorningIwentalongthelaketillIcametoagood-sizedstreamletonthenorthside。Ifthisisfollowedforhalf-an-hourorso——andthewalkisaverygoodone——LakeTomisreached，about7500feetabovethesea。Thelakeisnotlarge，andtherearenotsomanychaletsasatCadagno；stilltherearesome。TheviewofthemountaintopsontheothersidetheTicinovalley，asseenfromacrossthelake，isveryfine。Itriedtosketch，butwasfairlydrivenbackbyacloudofblackgnats。Theridgesimmediatelyatthebackofthelake，andnogreatheightaboveit，arethemaindividinglineofthewatershed；soarethosethatrisefromtheLagodiCadagno；infact，about600feetabovethislakeisthetopofapasswhichgoesthroughthePianodeiPorci，andleadsdowntoS。MariaMaggiore，ontheGermansideoftheLukmanier。IdonotknowtheshortpiecebetweentheLagodiCadagnoandS。Maria，butitissuretobegood。ItisapitythereisnoplaceatS。Mariawhereonecanputupforanightortwo。Thereisasmallinnthere，butitdidnotlooktempting。 BeforeleavingtheValLeventina，IwouldcallattentiontothebeautifuloldparishchurchatBiasca，wherethereisnowanexcellentinn，theHotelBiasca。ThischurchisnotsooldastheoneatGiornico，butitisagoodthoughplainexampleofearlyLombardarchitecture。 CHAPTERVII——S。MicheleandtheMontePirchirianoSometimeafterthetravellerfromParistoTurinhaspassedthroughtheMontCenistunnel，andshortlybeforehearrivesatBussolenostation，thelineturnseastward，andaviewisobtainedofthevalleyoftheDora，withthehillsbeyondTurin，andtheSuperga，inthedistance。Ontheright-handsideofthevalleyandabouthalf-waybetweenSusaandTurintheeyeisstruckbyanabruptly-descendingmountainwithalargebuildinglikeacastleuponthetopofit，andtheneareritisapproachedthemoreimposingdoesitprovetobe。Presentlythemountainisseenmoreedgeways，andtheshapechanges。Inhalf-an-hourorsofromthispoint，S。Ambrogioisreached，onceathrivingtown，wherecarriagesusedtobreakthejourneybetweenTurinandSusa，butleftstrandedsincetheopeningoftherailway。HereweareattheveryfootoftheMontePirchiriano，forsothemountainiscalled，andcanseethefrontofthebuilding——whichisnoneotherthanthefamoussanctuaryofS。Michele，commonlycalled\"dellaChiusa，\" fromthewallbuiltherebyDesiderius，kingoftheLombards，toprotecthiskingdomfromCharlemagne。 Thehistoryofthesanctuaryisbrieflyasfollows:- Atthecloseofthetenthcentury，whenOthoIIIwasEmperorofGermany，acertainHughdeMontboissier，anobleofAuvergne，commonlycalled\"HughtheUnsewn\"(losdruscito)，wascommandedbythePopetofoundamonasteryinexpiationofsomegraveoffence。 HechoseforhissitethesummitoftheMontePirchirianointhevalleyofSusa，beingattractedpartlybythefameofachurchalreadybuilttherebyarecluseofRavenna，GiovanniVincenzobyname，andpartlybythestrikingnatureofthesituation。HughdeMontboissierwhenreturningfromRometoFrancewithIsengardehiswife，would，asamatterofcourse，passthroughthevalleyofSusa。Thetwo——perhapswhenstoppingtodineatS。Ambrogio——wouldlookupandobservethechurchfoundedbyGiovanniVincenzo:theyhadgottobuildamonasterysomewhere；itwouldverylikely，therefore，occurtothemthattheycouldnotperpetuatetheirnamesbetterthanbychoosingthissite，whichwasonamuchtravelledroad，andonwhichafinebuildingwouldshowtoadvantage。Ifmyviewiscorrect，wehavehereanillustrationofafactwhichiscontinuallyobservable——namely，thatallthingswhichcometomuch，whethertheybebooks，buildings，pictures，music，orlivingbeings，aresuggestedbyothersoftheirownkind。Itis；alwaysthemostsuccessful，likeHandelandShakespeare，whoowemosttotheirforerunners，inspiteofthemodificationswithwhichtheirworksdescend。 GiovanniVincenzohadbuilthischurchabouttheyear987。ItismaintainedbysomethathehadbeenBishopofRavenna，butClarettagivessufficientreasonforthinkingotherwise。Inthe\"CronacaClusina\"itissaidthathehadforsomeyearspreviouslylivedasarecluseontheMonteCaprasio，tothenorthofthepresentMontePirchiriano；butthatonenighthehadavision，inwhichhesawthesummitofMontePirchirianoenvelopedinheaven-descendedflames，andonthisfoundedachurchthere，anddedicatedittoSt。 Michael。ThisistheoriginofthenamePirchiriano，whichmeans[Greektext]，ortheLord\'sfire。 Thefameoftheheavenlyflamesandthepietyofpilgrimsbroughtinenoughmoneytocompletethebuilding——which，tojudgefromtheremainsofitembodiedinthelaterwork，musthavebeensmall，butstillachurch，andmorethanamerechapelororatory。Itwas，asIhavealreadysuggested，probablyimposingenoughtofiretheimaginationofHughdeMontboissier，andmakehimfeelthecapabilitiesofthesituation，whichamereordinarywaysidechapelmightperhapshavefailedtodo。Havingbuilthischurch，GiovanniVincenzoreturnedtohissolitudeonthetopofMonteCaprasio，andthenceforthwentbackwardsandforwardsfromoneplaceofabodetotheother。 AvogadroisamongthosewhomakeGiovanniBishop，orratherArchbishop，ofRavenna，andgivesthefollowingaccountofthecircumstanceswhichledtohisresigninghisdioceseandgoingtoliveatthetopoftheinhospitableMonteCaprasio。ItseemstherehadbeenaconfirmationatRavenna，duringwhichhehadaccidentallyforgottentoconfirmthechildofacertainwidow。