第1章

Fortheconvenienceofavoidingexplanations，Ihavetreatedtheeventsofseveralsummersasthoughtheybelongedtoonlyone。 Thiscanbeofnoimportancetothereader，butastheworkischronologicallyinexact，Ihadbetterperhapssayso。 TheillustrationsbyMr。H。F。Jonesareonpages95，211，225，238，254，260。Thefrontispieceandtheillustrationsonthetitle-pageandonpages261，262arebyMr。CharlesGogin。Therearetwodrawingsonpages136，137byanItaliangentlemanwhosenameIhaveunfortunatelylost，andwhosepermissiontoinsertthemIhave，therefore，beenunabletoobtain，andoneonpage138bySignorGaetanoMeo。Therestaremine，exceptthatallthefiguresinmydrawingsareineverycasebyMr。CharlesGogin，unlesswhentheyaremerelycopiedfromfrescoesorothersources。ThetwolargerviewsofOropaarechieflytakenfromphotographs。Therestareallofthemfromstudiestakenuponthespot。 ImustacknowledgethegreatobligationsIamundertoMr。H。F。 Jonesasregardstheletterpressnolessthantheillustrations；I mightalmostsaythatthebookisnearlyasmuchhisasmine，whileitisonlythroughthecarewhichheandanotherfriendhaveexercisedintherevisionofmypagesthatIamabletoletthemappearwithsomeapproachtoconfidence。 November，1881。 CHAPTERI——IntroductionMostmenwillreadilyadmitthatthetwopoetswhohavethegreatestholdoverEnglishmenareHandelandShakespeare——foritisasapoet，asympathiserwithandrendererofallestatesandconditionswhetherofmenorthings，ratherthanasameremusician，thatHandelreignssupreme。TherehavebeenmanywhohaveknownasmuchEnglishasShakespeare，andso，doubtless，therehavebeennofewerwhohaveknownasmuchmusicasHandel:perhapsBach，probablyHaydn，certainlyMozart；aslikelyasnot，manyaknownandunknownmusiciannowliving；butthepoetisnotknownbyknowledgealone——notbygnosisonly——butalso，andingreaterpart，bytheagapewhichmakeshimwishtostealmen\'shearts，andpromptshimsotoapplyhisknowledgethatheshallsucceed。 TherehasbeennoonetotouchHandelasanobserverofallthatwasobservable，aloverofallthatwasloveable，ahaterofallthatwashateable，and，therefore，asapoet。Shakespearelovednotwiselybuttoowell。HandellovedaswellasShakespeare，butmorewisely。HeisasmuchaboveShakespeareasShakespeareisaboveallothers，exceptHandelhimself；heisnolesslofty，impassioned，tender，andfullalikeoffireandloveofplay；heisnolessuniversalintherangeofhissympathies，nolessamasterofexpressionandillustrationthanShakespeare，andatthesametimeheisofrobuster，strongerfibre，moreeasy，lessintrospective。Englishmenareofsomixedarace，soinventive，andsogiventomigration，thatformanygenerationstocometheyareboundtobeattimespuzzled，andthereforeintrospective； iftheygettheirfreedomatalltheygetitasShakespeare\"withagreatsum，\"whereasHandelwas\"freeborn。\"Shakespearesometimeserrsandgrievously，heisasoneofhisownbestmen\"mouldedoutoffaults，\"who\"forthemostbecomemuchmorethebetter，forbeingalittlebad；\"Handel，ifheputsforthhisstrengthatall，isunerring:hegainsthemaximumofeffectwiththeminimumofeffort。AsMozartsaidofhim，\"hebeatsusallineffect，whenhechooseshestrikeslikeathunderbolt。\"Shakespeare\'sstrengthisperfectedinweakness；Handelistheserenityandunself- consciousnessofhealthitself。\"There，\"saidBeethovenonhisdeathbed，pointingtotheworksofHandel，\"there——istruth。\" These，however，aredetails，themainpointthatwillbeadmittedisthattheaverageEnglishmanismoreattractedbyHandelandShakespearethanbyanyothertwomenwhohavebeenlongenoughdeadforustohaveformedafairlypermanentverdictconcerningthem。WenotonlybelievethemtohavebeenthebestmenfamiliarlyknownhereinEngland，butweseeforeignnationsjoinusforthemostpartinassigningtothemthehighestplaceasrenderersofemotion。 Itisalwaysapleasuretometoreflectthatthecountriesdearesttothesetwomasterspiritsarethosewhicharealsodearesttomyself，ImeanEnglandandItaly。BothofthemlivedmainlyhereinLondon，butbothofthemturnedmainlytoItalywhenrealisingtheirdreams。Handel\'smusicistheembodimentofallthebestItalianmusicofhistimeandbeforehim，assimilatedandreproducedwiththeenlargementsandadditionssuggestedbyhisowngenius。HestudiedinItaly；hissubjectsformanyyearswerealmostexclusivelyfromItaliansources；theverylanguageofhisthoughtswasItalian，andtotheendofhislifehewouldhavecomposednothingbutItalianoperas，iftheEnglishpublicwouldhavesupportedhim。HisspiritflewtoItaly，buthishomewasLondon。SoalsoShakespeareturnedtoItalymorethantoanyothercountryforhissubjects。Roughly，hewrotenineteenItalian，orwhattohimwerevirtuallyItalianplays，totwelveEnglish，oneScotch，oneDanish，threeFrench，andtwoearlyBritish。 ButwhodoesnotturntoItalywhohasthechanceofdoingso？ What，indeed，dowenotowetothatmostlovelyandloveablecountry？TakeupaBankofEnglandnoteandtheItalianlanguagewillbefoundstilllingeringuponit。Itissigned\"forBankofEnglandandCompa。\"(Compagnia)，not\"Compy。\"OurlawsareRomanintheirorigin。Ourmusic，aswehaveseen，andourpaintingcomesfromItaly。Ourveryreligiontillafewhundredyearsagofounditsheadquarters，notinLondonnorinCanterbury，butinRome。What，infact，istherewhichhasnotfilteredthroughItaly，eventhoughitaroseelsewhere？Ontheotherhand，thereareinfiniteattractionsinLondon。Ihaveseenmanyforeigncities，butIknownonesocommodious，or，letmeadd，sobeautiful。IknowofnothinginanyforeigncityequaltotheviewdownFleetStreet，walkingalongthenorthsidefromthecornerofFetterLane。ItisoftensaidthatthishasbeenspoiledbytheLondon，Chatham，andDoverRailwaybridgeoverLudgateHill；I think，however，theeffectismoreimposingnowthanitwasbeforethebridgewasbuilt。Timehasalreadysoftenedit；itdoesnotobtrudeitself；itaddsgreatlytothesenseofsize，andmakesusdoublyawareofthemovementoflife，thecolossalcirculationtowhichLondonowessomuchofitsimpressiveness。Wegainmorebythisthanwelosebytheinfractionofsomepedant\'scanonabouttheartisticallycorrectintersectionofrightlines。Vastasistheworldbelowthebridge，thereisavasterstillonhigh，andwhentrainsarepassing，thesteamfromtheenginewillthrowthedomeofSt。Paul\'sintotheclouds，andmakeitseemasthoughtherewereacomminglingofearthandsomefar-offmysteriouspalaceindreamland。IamnotveryfondofMilton，butIadmitthathedoesattimesputmeinmindofFleetStreet。 WhileonthesubjectofFleetStreet，Iwouldputinawordinfavourofthemuch-abusedgriffin。ThewholemonumentisoneofthehandsomestinLondon。Asforitsbeinganobstruction，Ihavediscoursedwithalargenumberofomnibusconductorsonthesubject，andamsatisfiedthattheobstructionisimaginary。 When，again，IthinkofWaterlooBridge，andthehugewide-openedjawsofthosetwoBehemoths，theCannonStreetandCharingCrossrailwaystations，IamnotsurethattheprospecthereisnotevenfinerthaninFleetStreet。Seehowtheybelchforthpuffingtrainsasthebreathoftheirnostrils，gorginganddisgorgingincessantlythosehumanatomswhosemovementisthelifeofthecity。Howlikeitallistosomegreatbodilymechanismofwhichthepeoplearetheblood。Andthen，aboveall，seetheineffableSt。Paul\'s。IwasonceonWaterlooBridgeafteraheavythunderstorminsummer。Athickdarknesswasupontheriverandthebuildingsuponthenorthside，butjustbelowIcouldseethewaterhurryingonwardasinanabyss，dark，gloomy，andmysterious。 Onalevelwiththeeyetherewasanabsoluteblank，butabove，theskywasclear，andoutofthegloomthedomeandtowersofSt。 Paul\'sroseupsharply，lookinghigherthantheyactuallywere，andasthoughtheyresteduponspace。 Thenasfortheneighbourhoodwithin，wewillsay，aradiusofthirtymiles。Itisoneofthemainbusinessesofmylifetoexplorethisdistrict。Ihavewalkedseveralthousandsofmilesindoingso，andImarkwhereIhavebeeninredupontheOrdnancemap，sothatImayseeataglancewhatpartsIknowleastwell，anddirectmyattentiontothemassoonaspossible。FortenmonthsintheyearIcontinuemywalksinthehomecounties，everyweekaddingsomenewvillageorfarmhousetomylistofthingsworthseeing；andnomatterwhereelseImayhavebeen，IfindacharminthevillagesofKent，Surrey，andSussex，whichinitswayIknownotwheretorival。 Ihaveventuredtosaytheabove，becauseduringtheremainderofmybookIshallbeoccupiedalmostexclusivelywithItaly，andwishtomakeitclearthatmyItalianramblesaretakennotbecauseI preferItalytoEngland，butasbywayofparergon，orby-work，aseverymanshouldhavebothhisprofessionandhishobby。IhavechosenItalyasmysecondcountry，andwoulddedicatethisbooktoherasathank-offeringforthehappinessshehasaffordedme。 CHAPTERII——FaidoForsomeyearspastIhavepaidavisitofgreaterorlesslengthtoFaidointheCantonTicino，whichthoughpoliticallySwissisasmuchItalianincharacterasanypartofItaly。Iwasattractedtothisplace，inthefirstinstance，chieflybecauseitisoneoftheeasiestplacesontheItaliansideoftheAlpstoreachfromEngland。Thismerititwillsoonpossessinastillgreaterdegree，forwhentheSt。Gothardtunnelisopen，itwillbepossibletoleaveLondon，wewillsay，onaMondaymorningandbeatFaidobysixorseveno\'clockthenextevening，justasonecannowdowithS。AmbrogioonthelinebetweenSusaandTurin，ofwhichmorehereafter。 True，bymakinguseofthetunnelonewillmisstheSt。Gothardscenery，butIwouldnot，ifIwerethereader，laythistoomuchtoheart。Mountainscenery，whenoneisstayingrightinthemiddleofit，orwhenoneisonfoot，isonething，andmountainsceneryasseenfromthetopofadiligenceverylikelysmotheredindustisanother。BesidesIdonotthinkhewillliketheSt。 Gothardsceneryverymuch。 Itisapitythereisnomentalmicroscopetoshowusourlikesanddislikeswhiletheyareyettoovaguetobemadeouteasily。Wearesoapttoletimaginarylikingsrunawaywithus，asapersonatthefarendofCannonStreetrailwayplatform，ifheexpectsafriendtojoinhim，willseethatfriendinhalftheimpossiblepeoplewhoarecomingthroughthewicket。Ioncebegananessayon\"TheArtofKnowingwhatgivesonePleasure，\"butsoonfoundmyselfoutofthediatonicwithit，inallmannerofstrangekeys，amidamazeofmetaphysicalaccidentalsanddoubleandtrebleflats，soI leftitaloneasaquestionnotworththetroubleitseemedlikelytotakeinanswering。Itislikeeverythingelse，ifwemuchwanttoknowourownmindonanyparticularpoint，wemaybetrustedtodevelopthefacultywhichwillrevealittous，andifwedonotgreatlycareaboutknowing，itdoesnotmuchmatterifweremaininignorance。Butinfewcasescanwegetatourpermanentlikingwithoutatleastasmuchexperienceasafishmongermusthavehadbeforehecanchooseatoncethebestbloateroutoftwentywhich，toinexperiencedeyes，seemoneasgoodastheother。LordBeaconsfieldwasathoroughErasmusDarwinianwhenhesaidsowellin\"Endymion\":\"Thereisnothinglikewill；everybodycandoexactlywhattheylikeinthisworld，providedtheyreallylikeit。 Sometimestheythinktheydo，butingeneralit\'samistake。\"{1} IfthisisastrueasIbelieveittobe，\"thelongingafterimmortality，\"thoughnotindeedmuchofanargumentinfavourofourbeingimmortalatthepresentmoment，isperfectlysoundasareasonforconcludingthatweshallonedaydevelopimmortality，ifourdesireisdeepenoughandlastingenough。Asforknowingwhetherornotonelikesapicture，whichunderthepresentaestheticreignofterrorisderigueur，Ionceheardamansaytheonlytestwastoaskone\'sselfwhetheronewouldcaretolookatitifonewasquitesurethatonewasalone；IhaveneverbeenabletogetbeyondthistestwiththeSt。Gothardscenery，andapplyingittotheDevil\'sBridge，Ishouldsayastayofaboutthirtysecondswouldbeenoughforme。IdaresayMendelssohnwouldhavestayedatleasttwohoursattheDevil\'sBridge，butthenhedidstaysuchalongwhilebeforethings。 ThecomingoutfromtheshorttunnelontotheplainofAndermattdoescertainlygivethepleasureofasurprise。IshallneverforgetcomingoutofthistunnelonedaylateinNovember，andfindingthewholeAndermattvalleyinbrilliantsunshine，thoughfromFluelenuptotheDevil\'sBridgethecloudshadhungheavyandlow。Itwasoneofthemoststrikingtransformationscenesimaginable。Thetopofthepassisgood，andtheHotelProsaacomfortableinntostayat。Idonotknowwhetherthishousewillbediscontinuedwhentherailwayisopened，butunderstandthattheproprietorhastakenthelargehotelatPiora，whichIwillspeakoflateron。ThedescentontheItaliansideisimpressive，andsoisthepointwheresightisfirstcaughtofthevalleybelowAirolo，butonthewholeIcannotseethattheSt。GothardisbetterthantheS。BernardinoontheItalianside，ortheLukmanier，nearthetop，ontheGerman；thislastisoneofthemostbeautifulthingsimaginable，butitshouldbeseenbyonewhoistravellingtowardsGermanSwitzerland，andinafinesummer\'seveninglight。IwasnevermoreimpressedbytheSt。GothardthanontheoccasionalreadyreferredtowhenIcrosseditinwinter。 WewentinsledgesfromHospenthaltoAirolo，andIrememberthinkingwhatsplendidfellowsthepostillionsandguardsandmenwhohelpedtoshifttheluggageontothesledges，looked；theyweresoruddyandstrongandfullofhealth，asindeedtheymightwellbe——livinganactiveoutdoorlifeinsuchanair；besides，theywerepickedmen，forthepassageinwinterisneverwithoutpossibledangers。Itwasdelightfultravellinginthesledge。Theskywasofadeepblue；therewasnotasinglecloudeitherinskyoronmountain，butthesnowwasalreadydeep，andhadcoveredeverythingbeneathitssmoothandheavingbosom。Therewasnobreathofair，butthecoldwasintense；presentlythesunsetuponallexceptthehigherpeaks，andthebroadshadowsstoleupwards。 Thentherewasarichcrimsonflushuponthemountaintops，andafterthisapallorcoldandghastlyasdeath。Ifheisfortunateinhisday，IdonotthinkanyonewillbesorrytohavecrossedtheSt。Gothardinmid-winter；butonepasswilldoaswellasanother。 Airolo，atthefootofthepassontheItalianside，was，tilllately，aquietandbeautifulvillage，risingfromamonggreatgreenslopes，whichinearlysummerarecoveredwithinnumerableflowers。Theplace，however，isnowquitechanged。TherailwayhasturnedthewholeValLeventinatopsy-turvy，andaltereditalmostbeyondrecognition。Whenthelineisfinishedandtheworkmenhavegoneelsewhere，thingswillgetrightagain；butjustnowthereisanexplosivenessaboutthevalleywhichpuzzlesonewhohasbeenfamiliarwithitsformerquietness。Airolohasbeenespeciallyrevolutionised，beingtheheadquartersfortheworksupontheItaliansideofthegreatSt。Gothardtunnel，asGoschenenisforthoseontheGermanside；besidesthis，itwasburntdowntwoorthreeyearsago，hardlyoneofthehousesbeingleftstanding，sothatitisnowanewtown，andhaslostitsformerpicturesqueness，butitwillbenotabadplacetostayatassoonasthebustleoftheworkshassubsided，andthereisagoodhotel—— theHotelAirolo。Itliesnearly4000feetabovethesea，sothateveninsummertheairiscool。Thereareplentyofdelightfulwalks——toPiora，forexample，uptheValCanaria，andtoBedretto。 AfterleavingAirolotheroaddescendsrapidlyforafewhundredfeetandthenmoreslowlyforfourorfivekilometrestoPiotta。 HerethefirstsignsoftheItalianspiritappearinthewoodcarvingofsomeofthehouses。ItiswiththesehousesthatI alwaysconsidermyselfasinItalyagain。ThencomeRoncoonthemountainsidetotheleft，andQuinto；allthewaythepasturesarethicklycoveredwithcowslips，evenfinerthanthosethatgrowonSalisburyPlain。Afewkilometresfartheronandsightiscaughtofabeautifulgreenhillwithafewnaturalterracesuponitandaflattop——risingfromamidpastures，andbackedbyhigherhillsasgreenasitself。OnthetopofthishilltherestandsawhitechurchwithanelegantLombardcampanile——thecampanileleftunwhitewashed。ThewholeformsalovelylittlebitoflandscapesuchassomeoldVenetianpaintermighthavechosenasabackgroundforaMadonna。 ThisplaceiscalledPrato。AfteritispassedtheroadentersatonceupontheMontePiottinogorge，whichisbetterthantheDevil\'sBridge，butnotsomuchtomytasteastheauriculasandrhododendronswhichgrowupontherocksthatflankit。Thepeep，however，atthehamletofVigera，caughtthroughtheopeningofthegorge，isverynice。SoonaftercrossingthesecondoftheMontePiottinobridgesthefirstchestnutsarereached，orratherweresotillayearago，whentheywereallcutdowntomakeroomforsomeconstructioninconnectionwiththerailway。Acoupleofkilometresfartheronandmulberriesandoccasionalfig-treesbegintoappear。OnthiswefindourselvesatFaido，thefirstplaceupontheItaliansidewhichcanbecalledatown，butwhichafterallishardlymorethanavillage。 Faidoisapicturesqueoldplace。Ithasseveralhousesdatedthemiddleofthesixteenthcentury；andthereisone，formerlyaconvent，closetotheHoteldell\'Angelo，whichmustbestillolder。Thereisabrewerywhereexcellentbeerismade，asgoodasthatofChiavenna——andamonasterywhereafewmonksstillcontinuetoreside。Thetownis2365feetabovethesea，andisnevertoohotevenintheheightofsummer。TheAngeloistheprincipalhotelofthetown，andwillbefoundthoroughlycomfortableandinallrespectsadesirableplacetostayat。Ihavestayedtheresooften，andconsiderthewholefamilyofitsproprietorsomuchamongthenumberofmyfriends，thatIhavenohesitationincordiallyrecommendingthehouse。 OtherattractionsIdonotknowthattheactualtownpossesses，buttheneighbourhoodisrich。Yearsago，intravellingbytheSt。 Gothardroad，Ihadnoticedthemanylittlevillagesperchedhighuponthesidesofthemountain，fromonetotwothousandfeetabovetheriver，andhadwonderedwhatsortofplacestheywouldbe。Iresolved，therefore，afteratimetomakeastayatFaidoandgouptoallofthem。Icarriedoutmyintention，andthereisnotavillagenorfractionofavillageintheValLeventinafromAirolotoBiascawhichIhavenotinspected。Inevertireofthem，andtheonlyregretIfeelconcerningthemis，thatthegreaternumberareinaccessibleexceptonfoot，sothatIdonotseehowI shallbeabletoreachthemifIlivetobeold。ThesearetheplacesofwhichIdofindmyselfcontinuallythinkingwhenIamawayfromthem。ImayaddthattheValLeventinaismuchthesameaseveryothersubalpinevalleyontheItaliansideoftheAlpsthatIhaveyetseen。 IhadnoparticularaversiontoGermanSwitzerlandbeforeIknewtheItaliansideoftheAlps。Onthecontrary，IwasundertheimpressionthatIlikedGermanSwitzerlandalmostasmuchasI likedItalyitself，butnowIcanlookatGermanSwitzerlandnolonger。AssoonasIseethewatergoingdownRhinewardsIhurrybacktoLondon。IwasunwillinglycompelledtotakepleasureinthefirsthourandahalfofthedescentfromthetopoftheLukmaniertowardsDisentis，butthisisonlyarippingoverofthebrimfulnessofItalyontotheSwissside。 ThefirstplaceItriedfromFaidowasMairengo——wherethereistheoldestchurchinthevalley——achurcholdereventhanthechurchofSt。NicolaoofGiornico。Thereislittleoftheoriginalstructure，buttherarepeculiarityremainsthattherearetwohighaltarssidebyside。 Thereisafinehalf-coveredtimberporchtothechurch。Theseporchesarerare，theonlyotherslikeitIknowofbeingatPrato，Rossura，andtosomeextentCornone。Ineachofthesecasesthearrangementisdifferent，theonlyagreementbeinginthehavinganoutershelteredplace，fromwhichthechurchisenteredinsteadofopeningdirectlyontothechurchyard。Mairengoisfullofgoodbits，andnestlesamongmagnificentchestnut-trees。FromhenceI wenttoOsco，about3800feetabovethesea，and1430aboveFaido。 ItwashereIfirstcametounderstandthepurposeofcertainhighpoleswithcrossbarstothemwhichIhadalreadyseenelsewhere。 Theyarefordryingthebarleyon；assoonasitiscutitishunguponthecrossbarsandsecuredinthiswayfromtherain，butitisobviousthiscanonlybedonewhencultivationisonasmallscale。Theserascane，astheyarecalled，areafeatureoftheValLeventina，andlookverywellwhentheyarefullofbarley。 FromOscoItriedtocoastalongtoCalpiognia，butwaswarnedthatthepathwasdangerous，andfoundittobeso。IthereforeagaindescendedtoMairengo，andre-ascendedbyapathwhichwentstraightupbehindthevillage。AfteratimeIgotuptothelevelofCalpiognia，ornearlyso，andfoundapaththroughpinewoodswhichledmeacrossatorrentinaravinetoCalpiogniaitself。 Thispathisverybeautiful。WhileonitIcaughtsightofalovelyvillagenestlingonaplateauthatnowshoweditselfhighupontheothersidethevalleyoftheTicino，perhapsacoupleofmilesoffasthecrowflies。ThisIfounduponinquirytobeDalpe；aboveDalperosepinewoodsandpastures；thentheloftieralpi，thenruggedprecipices，andabovealltheDalpeglacierroseatewithsunset。Iwasenchanted，anditwasonlybecausenightwascomingon，andIhadalongwaytodescendbeforegettingbacktoFaido，thatIcouldgetmyselfaway。IpassedthroughCalpiognia，andthoughtheduskwasdeepening，IcouldnotforbearfrompausingattheCampoSantojustoutsidethevillage。Igiveasketchtakenbydaylight，butneithersketchnorwordscangiveanyideaofthepathosoftheplace。WhenIsawitfirstitwasinthemonthofJune，andtherankdandelionswereinseed。Wildrosesinfullbloom，greatdaisies，andthenever-failingsalviaranriotamongthegraves。LookingoverthechurchyarditselftherewerethepurplemountainsofBiascaandthevalleyoftheTicinosomecoupleofthousandfeetbelow。TherewasnosoundsavethesubduedbutceaselessroaroftheTicino，andthePiumogna。InvoluntarilyIfoundthefollowingpassagefromthe\"Messiah\"soundinginmyears，andfeltasthoughHandel，whoinhistravelsasayoungmandoubtlesssawsuchplaces，mighthavehadoneoftheminhismindwhenhewrotethedivinemusicwhichhehasweddedtothewords\"ofthemthatsleep。\"{2} [Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven] Oragain:{3} [Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven] FromCalpiogniaIcamedowntoPrimadengo，andthencetoFaido。 CHAPTERIII——Primadengo，Calpiognia，Dalpe，Cornone，andPratoNextmorningIthoughtIwouldgouptoCalpiogniaagain。ItwasSunday。WhenIgotuptoPrimadengoIsawnoone，andheardnothing，savealwaysthesoundofdistantwaterfalls；allwasspaciousandfullofwhatMr。Ruskinhascalleda\"greatpeacefulnessoflight。\"Thevillagewassoquietthatitseemedasthoughitweredeserted；afteraminuteorso，however，Iheardacherryfall，andlookingup，sawthetreeswerefullofpeople。 Theretheywere，crawlingandlollingaboutontheboughslikecaterpillars，andgorgingthemselveswithcherries。Theyspokenotawordeithertomeortooneanother。Theyweretoohappyandgoodlytomakeanoise；buttheylayaboutonthelargebranches，andateandsighedforcontentandatetilltheycouldeatnolonger。Lotuseatingwasaroughnerve-jarringbusinessincomparison。TheywerelikesaintsandevangelistsbyFilippoLippi。AgaintherenderingofHandelcameintomymind，andI thoughtofhowthegoodlyfellowshipofprophetspraisedGod。{4} [Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven] AndhowagaininsomesuchanotherquietecstasythemusessingaboutJove\'saltarinthe\"AllegroandPenseroso。\" HereisasketchofPrimadengoChurch——lookingoveritontotheothersidetheTicino，butIcouldnotgetthecherry-treesnorcherry-eaters。 OnleavingPrimadengoIwentontoCalpiognia，andtheretooI foundthechildren\'sfacesallpurplewithcherryjuice；thenceI ascendedtillIgottoamonte，orcollectionofchalets，about5680feetabovethesea。Itwasdesertedatthisseason。I mountedfartherandreachedanalpe，whereamanandaboyweretendingamobofcalves。Goingstillhigher，Iatlastcameuponasmalllakeclosetothetopoftherange:Ifindthislakegiveninthemapasabout7400feetabovethesea。Here，beingmorethan5000feetaboveFaido，Istoppedanddined。 Ihavespokenofamonteandofanalpe。Analpe，oralp，isnot，assomanypeopleinEnglandthink，asnowymountain。MontBlancandtheJungfrau，forexample，arenotalps。Theyaremountainswithalpsuponthem。 Analpeisatractofthehighestsummerpasturagejustbelowthesnow-line，andonlycapableofbeinggrazedfortwoorthreemonthsineveryyear。Itisheldascommonlandbyoneormorevillagesintheimmediateneighbourhood，andsometimesbyasingleindividualtowhomthevillagehassoldit。Afewmenandboysattendthewholeherd，whetherofcattleorgoats，andmakethecheese，whichisapportionedoutamongtheownersofthecattlelateron。Thepigsgouptobefattenedonwhey。Thecheeseisnotcommonlymadeatthealpe，butassoonasthecurdhasbeenpressedclearofwhey，itissentdownonmen\'sbackstothevillagetobemadeintocheese。Sometimestherewillbealittlehaygrownonanalpe，asatGribbioandinPiora；inthiscasetherewillbesomechaletsbuilt，whichwillbeinhabitedforafewweeksandleftemptytherestoftheyear。 Themonteisthepasturelandimmediatelyabovethehighestenclosedmeadowsandbelowthealpe。Thecattlearekepthereinspringandautumnbeforeandaftertheirvisittothealpe。Themontehasmanyhouses，dairies，andcowhouses，——beingalmostthepaese，orvillage，inminiature。Itwillalwayshaveitschapel，andisinhabitedbysoconsiderableanumberofthevillagers，forsolongatimebothinspringandautumn，thattheyfinditworthwhiletomakethemselvesmorecomfortablethanisnecessaryforthefewwhomaketheshortsummervisittothealpe。 Everyinchoftheascentwasgood，butthedescentwasevenbetteronaccountoftheviewsoftheDalpeglacierontheothersidetheTicino，towardswhichonesbackisturnedasoneascends。AlldaylongthevillagesofDalpeandCornonehadbeentemptingme，soI resolvedtotakethemnextday。ThisIdid，crossingtheTicinoandfollowingabroadwell-beatenpathwhichascendsthemountainsinasoutherlydirection。IfoundtherareEnglishfernWoodsiahyperboreagrowingingreatluxurianceontherocksbetweenthepathandtheriver。Isawsomefrondsfullysixinchesinlength。 IalsofoundonespecimenofAspleniumalternifolium，which，however，isabundantontheothersidethevalley，onthewallsthatflankthepathbetweenPrimadengoandCalpiognia，andelsewhere。WoodsiaalsogrowsontheroadsidewallsnearAirolo，butnotsofineasatFaido。IhaveoftenlookedforitinothersubalpinevalleysofNorthItalyandthecantonTicino，buthaveneverhappenedtolightuponit。 Aboutthreeorfourhundredfeetabovetheriver，undersomepines，Isawastringofantscrossingandrecrossingtheroad；Ihavesinceseentheseantseveryyearinthesameplace。InonepartI almostthinkthestoneisalittlewornwiththedailypassageandrepassageofsomanythousandsoftinyfeet，butforthemostpartitcertainlyisnot。Half-an-hourorsoaftercrossingthestringofants，onepassesfromunderthepine-treesintoagrassymeadow，whichinspringisdeckedwithallmannerofAlpineflowers；aftercrossingthis，theoldSt。Gothardroadisreached，whichpassedbyPratoandDalpe，soastoavoidthegorgeoftheMontePiottino。 Thisroadisofverygreatantiquity，andhasbeenlongdisused，exceptforlocalpurposes；forevenbeforethecarriageroadovertheSt。Gothardwasfinishedin1827，therewasahorsetrackthroughtheMontePiottino。Inanothertwentyminutesorso，oncomingoutfromawoodofwillowsandalders，Dalpeisseencloseathandafterawalkoffromanhour-and-a-halftotwohoursfromFaido。 Dalpeisrathermorethan1500feetaboveFaido，andisthereforenearly4000feetabovethesea。Itisreckonedabelpaese，inasmuchasithasalittletolerablylevelpastureandtillablelandnearit，andafinealpe。Thisishowthewealthofavillageisreckoned。TheItalianssetgreatstorebyalittlebitofbellapianura，orlevelground；tothemitisaspreciousasahillorrockistoaLondoneroutforaholiday。ThepeasantryareasblindtothebeautiesofroughunmanageablelandasPeterBellwastothoseoftheprimrosewithayellowbrim(Iquotefrommemory)。 ThepeoplecomplainoftheclimateofDalpe，thesnownotgoingoffbeforetheendofMarchorbeginningofApril。Noclimate，theysay，shouldbecolderthanthatofFaido；barley，however，andpotatoesdoverywellatDalpe，andnothingcanexceedthehaycrops。AgooddealofthehayissentdowntoFaidoonmen\'sbacksorratherontheirheads，fortheroadisimpracticableevenforsledges。Itisastonishingwhataweightthemenwillbearupontheirheads，andtherateatwhichtheywillcomedownwhileloaded。Anaverageloadisfourhundredweight。Themanishardlyvisiblebeneathhisburden，whichlookslikeagoodbigpartofanordinaryEnglishhaystack。Withthisweightonhisheadhewillgodownroughplacesalmostatarunandnevermisshisfooting。Themengenerallycarrythehaydowninthreesandfourstogetherforcompany。Theylookdistressed，aswelltheymay:everymuscleisstrained，anditiseasytoseethattheirpowersarebeingtaxedtotheirutmostlimit；itisbetternoteventosaygood-daytothemwhentheyarethusloaded；theyhaveenoughtoattendtojustthen；nevertheless，assoonastheyhavedepositedtheirloadatFaidotheywillgouptoDalpeagainorCalpiognia，orwhereveritmaybe，foranother，andbringitdownwithoutresting。Twosuchjourneysarereckonedenoughforoneday。Thisishowthepeoplegettheircorpodilegnoegambadiferro——\"theirbodiesofwoodandlegsofiron。\"ButIthinktheyratheroverdoit。 Talkingoflegs，asIwentthroughthemainstreetofDalpeanoldladyofaboutsixty-fivestoppedme，andtoldmethatwhilegatheringherwinterstoreoffirewoodshehadhadthemisfortunetohurtherleg。Iwasverysorry，butIfailedtosatisfyher； themoreIsympathisedingeneralterms，themoreIfeltthatsomethingfurtherwasexpectedofme。Iwentontryingtodothecivilthing，whentheoldladycutmeshortbysayingitwouldbemuchbetterifIweretoseethelegatonce；sosheshoweditmeinthestreet，andthere，sureenough，closetothegrointherewasaswelling。AgainIsaidhowsorryIwas，andaddedthatperhapssheoughttoshowittoamedicalman。\"Butaren\'tyouamedicalman？\"saidsheinanalarmedmanner。\"Certainlynot，\"repliedI。 \"Thenwhydidyouletmeshowyoumyleg？\"saidsheindignantly，andpullingherclothesdown，thepooroldwomanbegantohobbleoff；presentlytwoothersjoinedher，andIheardheartypealsoflaughterassherecountedherstory。Astrangervisitingtheseout-of-the-wayvillagesisalmostcertaintobemistakenforadoctor。Whatbusiness，theysaytothemselves，cananyoneelsehavethere，andwhoinhissenseswoulddreamofvisitingthemforpleasure？Thisoldladyhadrushedtotheusualconclusion，andhadbeentryingtogetalittleadvicegratis。 AboveDalpethereisapaththroughtheuppervalleyofthePiumogna，whichleadstotheglacierwhencetherivercomes。Thehighestpeakabovethisuppervalleyjustturnsthe10，000feet，butIwasneverabletofindoutthatithasaname，noristhereanamemarkedintheOrdnancemapoftheCantonTicino。Thevalleypromiseswell，butIhavenotbeentoitshead，whereatabout7400 feetthereisasmalllake。GreatquantitiesofcrystalsarefoundinthemountainsaboveDalpe。Somepeoplemakealivingbycollectingthesefromthehigherpartsoftherangeswherenonebutbornmountaineersandchamoiscanventure；many，again，emigratetoParis，London，America，orelsewhere，andreturneitherforamonthortwo，orsometimesforapermanency，havingbecomerich。InCornonethereisonelargewhitenewhousebelongingtoamanwhohasmadehisfortunenearComo，andinallthesevillagestherearesimilarhouses。FromtheValLeventinaandtheValBlenio，butmoreespeciallyfromthislast，verylargenumberscometoLondon，whilehardlyfewergotoAmerica。SignorGatti，thegreaticemerchant，camefromtheValBlenio。 Ioncefoundthewords，\"Tommy，makeroomforyouruncle，\"onachapeloutsidethewallsofoneveryquietlittleuplandhamlet。 Thewritingwasinachild\'sscrawl，andinlikefashionwithallelsethatwaswrittenonthesamewall。Ishouldhavebeenmuchsurprised，ifIhadnotalreadyfoundouthowmanyfamiliesreturntothesepartswithchildrentowhomEnglishisthenativelanguage。ManyasarethevillagesintheCantonTicinoinwhichI havesatsketchingforhourstogether，IhaverarelydonesowithoutbeingaccostedsoonerorlaterbysomeonewhocouldspeakEnglish，eitherwithanAmericanaccentorwithoutit。Itiscuriousatsomeout-of-the-wayplacehighupamongthemountains，toseealotofchildrenatplay，andtohearoneofthemshoutout，\"Marietta，ifyoudothatagain，I\'llgoandtellmother。\" OneEnglishwordhasbecomeuniversallyadoptedbytheTicinesithemselves。Theysay\"waitee\"justasweshouldsay\"wait，\"tostopsomeonefromgoingaway。Itisabhorrenttothemtoendawordwithaconsonant，sotheyhaveadded\"ee，\"buttherecanbenodoubtabouttheoriginoftheword。{5} Whenwebearinmindthetendencyofanylanguage，ifitonceattainsacertainpredominance，tosupplantallothers，andwhenwelookatthemapoftheworldandseetheextentnowinthehandsofthetwoEnglish-speakingnations，IthinkitmaybeprophesiedthatthelanguageinwhichthisbookiswrittenwillonedaybealmostasfamiliartothegreaternumberofTicinesiastheirown。 Imaymentiononeotherexpressionwhich，thoughnotderivedfromEnglish，hasacuriousanalogytoanEnglishusage。WhenthebeautifulchildrenwithnameslikeHandel\'soperascomeroundonewhileoneissketching，someoneofthemwillassuredlybeforelongbeheardtowhisperthewords\"Tiragiu，\"oraschildrensaywhentheycomeroundoneinEngland，\"Heisdrawingitdown。\"Thefundamentalideais，ofcourse，thatthedraughtsmandragstheobjectwhichheisdrawingawayfromitsposition，and\"transfers\" it，aswesaybythesamemetaphor，tohispaper，asSt。Cecilia\"drewanangeldown\"in\"Alexander\'sFeast。\" AgoodwalkfromDalpeistotheAlpediCampolungoandFusio，butitisbettertakenfromFusio。AveryfavouritepathwithmeistheoneleadingconjointlyfromCornoneandDalpetoPrato。TheviewupthevalleyoftheSt。GothardlookingdownonPratoisfine；Igiveasketchofittakenfiveyearsagobeforetherailwayhadbeenbegun。 Thelittleobjectslookinglikesentryboxesthatgoallroundthechurchcontainroughmodernfrescoes，representing，ifIrememberrightly，theeventsattendantupontheCrucifixion。TheseareonasmallscalewhatthechapelsonthesacredmountainofVaralloareonalargeone。SmallsingleoratoriesarescatteredaboutallovertheCantonTicino，andindeedeverywhereinNorthItalybytheroadside，atallhalting-places，andespeciallyatthecrestofanymoremarkedascent，wherethetiredwayfarer，probablyheavyladen，mightbeinclinedtosayanaughtywordortwoifnotchecked。Thepeoplelikethem，andmissthemwhentheycometoEngland。Theysometimesdowhattheloweranimalsdoinconfinementwhenprecludedfromhabitstheyareaccustomedto，andputupwithstrangemakeshiftsbywayofsubstitute。IoncesawapoorTicinesewomankneelinginprayerbeforeadentist\'sshow-caseintheHampsteadRoad；shedoubtlessmistooktheteethfortherelicsofsomesaint。Iamafraidshewasalittlelikeahensittinguponachalkegg，butsheseemedquitecontented。 Whichofus，indeed，doesnotsitcontentedlyenoughuponchalkeggsattimes？Andwhatwouldlifebebutforthepowertodoso？ Wedonotsufficientlyrealisethepartwhichillusionhasplayedinourdevelopment。Oneoftheprimerequisitesforevolutionisacertainpowerforadaptationtovaryingcircumstances，thatistosay，ofplasticity，bodilyandmental。Butthepowerofadaptationismainlydependentonthepowerofthinkingcertainnewthingssufficientlylikecertainotherstowhichwehavebeenaccustomedforusnottobetoomuchincommodedbythechange——uponthepower，infact，ofmistakingthenewfortheold。Thepoweroffusingideas(andthroughideas，structures)dependsuponthepowerofconfusingthem；thepowertoconfuseideasthatarenotveryunlike，andthatarepresentedtousinimmediatesequence，ismainlyduetothefactoftheimpetus，sotospeak，whichthemindhasuponit。Wealways，Ibelieve，makeanefforttoseeeverynewobjectasarepetitionoftheobjectlastbeforeus。Objectsaresovaried，andpresentthemselvessorapidly，thatasageneralrulewerenouncethisefforttoopromptlytonoticeit，butitisalwaysthere，anditisbecauseofitthatweareabletomistake，andhencetoevolvenewmentalandbodilydevelopments。Wheretheeffortissuccessful，thereisillusion；wherenearlysuccessfulbutnotquite，thereisashockandasenseofbeingpuzzled——moreorless，asthecasemaybe；whereitissoobviouslyimpossibleasnottobepursued，thereisnoperceptionoftheeffortatall。 Mr。Lockehasbeengreatlypraisedforhisessayuponhumanunderstanding。Anessayonhumanmisunderstandingshouldbenolessinterestingandimportant。Illusiontoasmallextentisoneofthemaincauses，ifindeeditisnotthemaincause，ofprogress，butitmustbeuponasmallscale。Allabortivespeculation，whethercommercialorphilosophical，isbaseduponit，andmuchaswemayabusesuchspeculation，weare，allofus，itsdebtors。 LeonardodaVincisaysthatSandroBotticellispokeslightinglyoflandscape-painting，andcalledit\"butavainstudy，sincebythrowingaspongeimpregnatedwithvariouscoloursagainstawall，itleavessomespotsuponit，whichmayappearlikealandscape。\" LeonardodaVincicontinues:\"Itistruethatavarietyofcompositionsmaybeseeninsuchspotsaccordingtothedispositionofmindwithwhichtheyareconsidered；suchasheadsofmen，variousanimals，battles，rockyscenes，seas，clouds，words，andthelike。Itmaybecomparedtothesoundofbellswhichmayseemtosaywhateverwechoosetoimagine。Inthesamemannerthesespotsmayfurnishhintsforcomposition，thoughtheydonotteachushowtofinishanyparticularpart。\"{6}NoonecanhatedrunkennessmorethanIdo，butIamconfidentthehumanintellectowesitssuperiorityoverthatoftheloweranimalsingreatmeasuretothestimuluswhichalcoholhasgiventoimagination—— imaginationbeinglittleelsethananothernameforillusion。Asforwaysidechapels，mine，whenIaminLondon，aretheshopwindowswithprettythingsinthem。 TheflowersontheslopesabovePratoarewonderful，andthevillageisfullofnicebitsforsketching，butthebestthing，tomyfancy，isthechurch，andthewayitstands，andthelovelycoveredporchthroughwhichitisentered。Thisporchisnotstrikingfromtheoutside，butItooktwosketchesofitfromwithin。Thereis，also，afresco，halffinished，ofSt。GeorgeandtheDragon，probablyofthefifteenthcentury，andnotwithoutfeeling。Thereisnotmuchinsidethechurch，whichismodernisedandmorerecentthanthetower。Thetowerisverygood，andonlysecond，ifsecond，intheupperLeventinatothatofQuinto，which，however，isnotnearlysowellplaced。 ThepeopleofPratoarejustasfondofcherriesasthoseofPrimadengo，butIdidnotseeanymeninthetrees。ThechildreninthesepartsarethemostbeautifulandmostfascinatingthatI knowanywhere；theyhaveblackmouthsallthroughthemonthofJulyfromthequantitiesofcherriesthattheydevour。Icanbearwitnessthattheyareirresistible，foronekindoldgentleman，seeingmepaintingnearhishouse，usedtobringmedailyabranchofacherry-treewithallthecherriesonit。\"Sonpiccole，\"hewouldsay，\"masongustose\"——\"Theyaresmall，buttasty，\"whichindeedtheywere。SeeingIateallhegaveme——fortherewasnostoppingshortaslongasasinglecherrywasleft——he，daybyday，increasedthesizeofthebranch，butnomatterhowmanyhebroughtIwasalwaysevenwithhim。Ididmybesttostophimfrombringingthem，ormyselffromeatingallofthem，butitwasnouse。 [Autographwhichcannotbereproduced:TlolindaDelPietro] Hereistheautographofoneofthelittleblack-mouthedfolk。I watchthemgrowingupfromyeartoyearinmanyavillage。IwassketchingatPrimadengo，andalittlegirlofaboutthreeyearscameupwithherbrother，aboyofperhapseight。Beforelongthesmallerchildbegantosethercapatme，smiling，ogling，andshowingallhertrickslikeanaccomplishedlittleflirt。Herbrothersaid，\"Shealwaysgoesonlikethattostrangers。\"Isaid，\"What\'shername？\"\"Forolinda。\"Thenamebeingnewtome，Imadetheboywriteit，andhereitis。HehasforgottentocrosshisF，butthewritingiswonderfullygoodforaboyofhisage。Thechild\'sname，doubtless，isFlorinda。 MorethanonceatPrato，andoftenelsewhere，peoplehavewantedtobuymysketches:ifIhadnotrequiredthemformyownuseImighthavesoldagoodmany。Idonotthinkmypatronsintendedgivingmorethanfourorfivefrancsasketch，butaquickworker，whocouldcoverhisthreeorfourFortunypanelsaday，mightpayhisexpenses。ItoftenhappensthatpeoplewhoaredoingwellinLondonorParisarepayingavisittotheirnativevillage，andliketotakebacksomethingtoremindthemofitinthewinter。 FromPrato，therearetwowaystoFaido，onepastanoldcastle，builttodefendthenorthernentranceoftheMontePiottino，andsooverasmallpasswhichwillavoidthegorge；andtheother，byDazioandtheMontePiottinogorge。Botharegood。 CHAPTERIV——Rossura，CalonicoAnotherdayIwentuptoRossura，avillagethatcanbeseenfromthewindowsoftheHoteldell\'Angelo，andwhichstandsabout3500 feetabovethesea，oralittlemorethan1100feetaboveFaido。 Thepathtoitpassesalongsomemeadows，fromwhichthechurchofCalonicocanbeseenonthetopofitsrockssomefewmilesoff。 Byandbyatorrentisreached，andtheascentbeginsinearnest。 WhenthelevelofRossurahasbeennearlyattained，thepathturnsoffintomeadowstotheright，andcontinues——occasionallyundermagnificentchestnuts——tillonecomestoRossura。