第11章

类别:其他 作者:John Barrow字数:15800更新时间:18/12/14 11:13:28
Thepalaceisbuiltinasplendidstyle,butisunfortunatelyquiteuseless,asthecourthasbeautifulsummer-palacesintheneighbourhoodofPotsdam,andspendsthewinterinBerlin。 Thecastlesquareisnotverygood;itisneitherlargenorregular,andnotevenlevel。Onitstandsthelargechurch,whichisnotyetcompleted,butpromisestobeafinestructure。Thetownistolerablylarge,andhasmanyfinehouses。Thestreets,especiallytheNaunerStreet,arewideandlong,butbadlypaved;thestonesarelaidwiththepointedsideupwards,andforfoot-passengersthereisastonepavementtwofeetbroadononesideofthestreetonly。ThepromenadeofthetownspeopleiscalledAmKanal(besidethecanal),andisafinesquare,throughwhichthecanalflows,andisornamentedwithtrees。 Oftheroyalpleasure-palacesIvisitedthatofSansSoucifirst。 Itissurroundedbyaprettypark,andliesonahill,whichisdividedintosixterraces。Largeconservatoriesstandoneachsideofthese;andinfrontofthemarelongalleysoforangeandlemon- trees。 Thepalacehasonlyagroundfloor,andissurroundedbyarbours,trees,andvines,sothatitisalmostconcealedfromview。Icouldnotinspecttheinterior,astheroyalfamilywaslivingthere。 Aside-pathleadsfromheretotheRuinenberg,onwhichtheruinsofalargerandasmallertemple,raisedbythehandofart,aretastefullydisposed。Thetopofthehillistakenupbyareservoirofwater。FromthispointonecanseethebackofthepalaceofSansSouci,andtheso-callednewpalace,separatedfromtheformerbyasmallpark,anddistantonlyaboutaquarterofanhour。 Thenewpalace,builtbyFredericktheGreat,isassplendidasonecanimagine。Itformsalengthenedsquare,witharabesquesandflatcolumns,andhasaflatroof,whichissurroundedbyastonebalustrade,andornamentedbystatues。 Theapartmentsarehighandlarge,andsplendidlypainted,tapestried,andfurnished。Oil-paintings,manyofthemverygood,coverthewalls。Onemightfillavolumewiththedescriptionofallthewondersofthisplace,whichis,however,notinhabited。 Behindthepalace,andseparatedfromitbyalargecourt,aretwobeautifullittlepalaces,connectedbyacrescent-shapedhallofpillars;broadstonestepsleadtothebalconiessurroundingthefirststoryoftheedifices。Theyareusedasbarracks,andare,assuch,themostbeautifulIhaveeverseen。 FromhereapleasantwalkleadstothelovelypalaceofCharlottenburg。Comingfromthelargenewpalaceitseemedtoosmallforthedwellingevenofthecrown-prince。Ishouldhavetakenitforasplendidpavilionattachedtothenewpalace,towhichtheroyalfamilysometimeswalked,andperhapsremainedtheretotakerefreshment。ButwhenIhadinspecteditmoreclosely,andseenallthecomfortablelittlerooms,furnishedwithsuchtastefulluxury,Ifeltthatthecrown-princecouldnothavemadeabetterchoice。 Beautifulfountainsplayontheterraces;thewallsofthecorridorsandanteroomsarecoveredwithsplendidfrescoes,inimitationofthosefoundinPompeii。Theroomsaboundinexcellentengravings,paintings,andotherworksofart;andthegreatesttasteandsplendourisdisplayedevenintheminorarrangements。 AprettyChinesechiosque,filledwithgoodstatues,whichhavebeenunfortunatelymuchdamagedandbroken,standsnearthepalace。 Thesethreebeautifulroyalresidencesaresituatedinparks,whicharesounitedthattheyseemonlyasone。Theparksarefilledwithfinetrees,andverdantfieldscrossedbywell-keptpathsanddrives;butIsawveryfewflower-bedsinthem。 WhenIhadcontemplatedeverythingatleisure,IreturnedtothepalaceofSansSouci,toseethebeautifulfountains,whichplaytwiceaweek,onTuesdayandFriday,fromnoontillevening。Thecolumnsprojectedfromthebasininfrontofthecastlearesovoluminous,andrisewithsuchforce,thatIgazedinamazementattheartifice。Itisrealpleasuretobenearthebasinwhenthesunshinesinitsfullsplendour,formingthemostbeautifulrainbowsinthefallingshowerofdrops。Equallybeautifulisafountainrisingfromahighvase,enwreathedbylivingflowers,andfallingoverit,sothatitformsaquick,briskfountain,transparent,andpureasthefinestcrystal。Thelidofthevase,alsoenwreathedwithgrowingflowers,risesabovethefountain。TheNeptune\'sgrottoisofnogreatbeauty;thewaterfallsfromanurnplacedoverit,andformslittlewaterfallsasitflowsovernautilus-shells。 ThemarblepalaceliesontheothersideofPotsdam,andishalfanhour\'sdistancefromthesepalaces;butIhadtimeenoughtovisitit。 Enteringtheparkbelongingtothispalace,arowofneatpeasants\' cottagesisseenontheleft;theyareallalike,butseparatedbyfruit,flower,orkitchen-gardens。Thepalaceliesattheextremeendofthepark,onaprettylakeformedbytheriverHavel。Itcertainlyhassomerighttothenameofmarblepalace;butitseemspresumptiontocallitsowhencomparedtothemarblepalacesofVenice,orthemarblemosquesofConstantinople。 Thewallsofthebuildingareofbrickleftinitsnaturalcolour。 Thelowerandupperframe-work,thewindow-sashes,andtheportals,areallofmarble。Thepalaceispartlysurroundedbyagallerysupportedonmarblecolumns。Thestairsareoffinewhitemarble,andmanyoftheapartmentsarelaidwiththismineral。Theinteriorisnotnearlysoluxuriousastheotherpalaces。 ThiswasthelastofthesightsIsawinPotsdamortheenvironsofBerlin;forIcontinuedmyjourneytoViennaonthefollowingday。 BeforequittingBerlin,Imustmentionanarrangementwhichisparticularlyconvenientforstrangers——namely,thefaresforhackney-carriages。Oneneedasknoquestions,butmerelyenterthecarriage,tellthecoachmanwheretodrive,andpayhimsix-pence。 Thismoderatefareisforthewholetown,whichissomewhatextensive。Atalltherailwaystationstherearenumbersofthesevehicles,whichwilldrivetoanyhotel,howeverfaritmaybefromthestation,forthesamemoderatefare。Ifonlyallcab-driversweresoaccommodating! October1st。 TherailwaygoesthroughLeipzictoDresden,whereItookthemail- coachforPragueateighto\'clockthesameevening,andarrivedthereineighteenhours。 Asitwasnightwhenwepassed,wedidnotenjoythebeautifulviewsoftheNollendorfmountain。Inthemorningwepassedtwohandsomemonuments,oneofthem,apyramidfifty-fourfeethigh,tothememoryofCountColloredo,theothertothememoryoftheRussiantroopswhohadfallenhere;bothhavebeenerectedsincethewarsofNapoleon。 Onwewentthroughcharmingdistrictstothefamedbathing-placeTeplitz,whichissurroundedbythemostbeautifulscenery;andcanbearcomparisonwiththefinestbathing-placesoftheworld。 Furtheronwepassedasolitarybasalticrock,Boren,whichdeservesattentionforitsbeautyandasanaturalcuriosity。Weunfortunatelyhurriedpastit,aswewishedtoreachPraguebeforesixo\'clock,sothatwemightnotmissthetraintoVienna。 MyreadersmayimagineourdisappointmentonarrivingatthegatesofPrague,whenourpassportsweretakenfromusandnotreturned。 Invainwereferredtotheviseoftheboundary-townPeterswalde;invainwespokeofourhaste。Theansweralwayswas,\"Thatisnothingtous;youcanhaveyourpapersbackto-morrowatthepolice- office。\"Thuswewereputoff,andlosttwenty-fourhours。 ImustmentionalittlejokeIhadontheridefromDresdentoPrague。Twogentlemenandaladybesidemyselfoccupiedthemail- coach;theladyhappenedtohavereadmydiaryofPalestine,andaskedme,whensheheardmyname,ifIwerethattraveller。WhenI hadacknowledgedIwasthatsameperson,ourconversationturnedonthatandonmypresentjourney。Oneofthegentlemen,HerrKatze,wasveryintelligent,andconversedinamostinterestingmanneroncountries,nationalities,andscientificsubjects。Theothergentlemanwasprobablyequallywellinformed,buthemadelessuseofhisacquirements。HerrKatzeremainedinTeplitz,andtheothergentlemanproceededwithustoVienna。Beforearrivingatourdestination,heaskedmeifHerrKatzehadnotrequestedmetomentionhisnameinmynextbook,andadded,thatifIwouldpromisetodothesame,hewouldtellmehisname。Icouldnotrefrainfromsmiling,butassuredhimthatHerrKatzehadnotthoughtofsuchathing,andbeggedhimnottocommunicatehisnametome,sothathemightseethatwefemaleswerenotsocuriousaswearesaidtobe。 Butthepoormancouldnotrefrainfromgivingmehisname——NicholasB——beforeweparted。Idonotinsertitfortworeasons:first,becauseIdidnotpromisetonamehim;andsecondly,becauseIdonotthinkitwoulddohimanyservice。 TherailwayfromPraguetoViennagoesoverOlmutz,andmakessuchaconsiderableround,thatthedistanceisnownearly320miles,andthearrangementsontherailwayareveryimperfect。 Therewerenohotelserectedontheroad,andwehadtobecontentwithfruit,beer,bread,andbutter,&c。thewholetime。Andtheseprovisionswerenoteasilyobtained,aswecouldnotventuretoleavethecarriages。Theconductorcalledoutateverystationthatweshouldgoondirectly,althoughthetrainfrequentlystoodupwardsofhalfanhour;butaswedidnotknowthatbefore,wewereobligedtoremainonourseats。Theconductorswerenotofthemostamiablecharacter,whichmayperhapsbeascribedtotheclimate;forwhenweapproachedtheboundaryoftheAustrianstatesatPeterswalde,theinspectorreceivedusverygruffly。Wewishedhimgoodeveningtwice,buthetooknonoticeofit,anddemandedourpapersinaloudandperemptorytone;heprobablythoughtusasdeafaswethoughthim。AtGanserndorf,twenty-fivemilesfromVienna,theytookourpapersfromusinaveryuncivil,uncourteousmanner。 Onthe4thofOctober,1845,afteranabsenceofsixmonths,I arrivedagaininsightofthedearStephen\'ssteeple,asmostofmycountrywomenwouldsay。 Ihadsufferedmanyhardships;butmyloveoftravellingwouldnothavebeenabated,norwouldmycouragehavefailedme,hadtheybeententimesgreater。Ihadbeenamplycompensatedforall。Ihadseenthingswhichneveroccurinourcommonlife,andhadmetwithpeopleastheyarerarelymetwith——intheirnaturalstate。AndI broughtbackwithmetherecollectionsofmytravels,whichwillalwaysremain,andwhichwillaffordmerenewedpleasureforyears。 AndnowItakeleaveofmydearreaders,requestingthemtoacceptwithindulgencemydescriptions,whicharealwaystrue,thoughtheymaynotbeamusing。IfIhave,asIcanscarcelyhope,affordedthemsomeamusement,Itrusttheywillinreturngrantmeasmallcornerintheirmemories。 Inconclusion,IbegtoaddanAppendix,whichmaynotbeuninterestingtomanyofmyreaders,namely: 1。AdocumentwhichIprocuredinReikjavik,givingthesalariesoftheroyalDanishofficials,andthesourcesfromwhencetheyarepaid。 2。AlistofIcelandicinsects,butterflies,flowers,andplants,whichIcollectedandbroughthomewithme。 APPENDIXA SalariesoftheRoyalDanishOfficialsinIceland,whichtheyreceivefromtheIcelandicland-revenues。 Florins{58} TheGovernorofIceland2000 Officeexpenses600 Thedeputyforthewesterndistrict1586 Officeexpenses400 Rent200 Thedeputyforthenorthernandeasterndistricts1286 Officeexpenses400 ThebishopofIceland,whodrawshissalaryfromtheschool-revenues,haspaidhimfromthistreasury800 ThemembersoftheSupremeCourt: Onejudge1184 Firstassessor890 Secondassessor740 Theland-bailiffofIceland600 Officeexpenses200 Rent150 Thetown-bailiffofReikjavik300 Thefirstpolice-officerofReikjavik,whoisatthesametimegaoler,andthereforehas50fl。morethanthesecondofficer200 Thesecondpolice-officer150 ThemayorofReikjavikonlydrawsfromthistreasuryhishouse-rent,whichis15O ThesysselmanoftheWestmannsIslands296 Theothersysselmen,each230 Medicaldepartmentandmidwifery: Thephysician900 House-rent150 ApothecaryofReikjavik185 House-rent150 ThesecondapothecaryatSikkisholm90 Sixsurgeonsinthecountry,each300 House-rentforsome30 Forothers25 AmedicalpractitionerontheNorthland110 Reikjavikhastwomidwives,eachreceives50 TheothermidwivesinIceland,amountingtothirty,eachreceives100 Thesemidwivesareinstructedandexaminedbythelandphysician,whohasthechargeofpayingthemannually。 OrganistofReikjavik100 Fromtheschool-revenuesThebishopreceives1200 Theteachersatthehighschool: Theteacheroftheology800 Theheadassistant,besidesfreelodging500 Thesecondassistant500 House-rent50 Thethirdassistant500 House-rent50 Theresidentattheschool170 LISTOFINVERTEBRATEDANIMALScollectedinIceland1。CRUSTACEA。 PagarusBernhardus,Linnaeus。 2。INSECTA。 a。Coleoptera。Nebriarubripes,Dejean。Patrobushyperboreus。 Calathusmelanocephalus,Fabr。Notiophilusaquaticus。Amaravulgaris,Duftsihm。Ptinusfur,Linn。AphodiusLapponum,Schh。 Otiorhynchuslaevigatus,Dhl。OtiorhynchusPinastri,Fabr。 Otiorhynchusovatus。Staphylinusmaxillosus。Byrrhuspillula。 b。Neuroptera。Limnophiluslineola,Schrank。 c。Hymenoptera。Pimplainstigator,Gravh。Bombussubterraneus,Linn。 d。Lepidoptera。Geometrarussata,Hub。Geom。alchemillata。 Geom。spec。nov。 e。Diptera。Tipulalunata,Meig。Scatophagastercoraria。Muscavomitaria。Muscamortuorum。Helomyzaserrata。Lecogasterislandicus,Scheff。{59}Anthomyiadecolor,Fallin。 LISTOFICELANDICPLANTScollectedbyIdaPfeifferintheSummeroftheyear1845 Felices。Cystopterisfragilis。 Equisetaceae。EquisetumTeltamegra。 Graminae。Festucauniglumis。 Cyperaceae。Careafiliformis。Careacaespitosa。Eriophorumcaespitosum。 Juncaceae。Luzulaspicata。Luzulacampestris。 Salicineae。Salixpolaris。 Polygoneae。Remuxarifolus。Oxyriareniformes。 Plumbagineae。Armeriaalpina(intheinteriormountainousdistricts)。 Compositae。Chrysanthemummaritimum(onthesea-shore,andonmarshyfields)。Hieraciumalpinum(ongrassyplains)。Taraxacumalpinum。Erigeronuniflorum(westofHavenfiord,onrockysoil)。 Rubiaceae。Galliumpusillum。Galliumverum。 Labiatae。Thynusserpyllum。 Asperifoliae。Myosotisalpestris。Myosotisscorpioicles。 Scrophularineae。Bartsiaalpina(intheinteriornorth-westernvalleys)。Rhinanthusalpestris。 Utricularieae。Pinguiculaalpina。Pinguiculavulgaris。 Umbelliferae。Archangelicaofficinalis(Havenfiord)。 Saxifrageae。Saxifragacaespitosa(therealLinnaeanplant:onrocksroundHecla)。 Ranunculaceae。Ranunculusauricomus。Ranunculusnivalis。 Thalictrumalpinum(growingbetweenlava,nearReikjavik)。Calthapalustris。 Cruciferae。Drabaverna。Cardaminepratensis。 Violariceae。Violahirta。 Caryophylleae。Saginastricta。Cerastiumsemidecandrum。Lepigonumrubrum。Silenemaritima。Lychnisalpina(onthemountain-fieldsroundReikjavik)。 Empetreae。Empetrumnigrum。 Geraniaceae。Geraniumsylvaticum(inpitsnearThingvalla)。 Troseaceae。Parnassiapalustris。 OEnothereae。Epilobiumlatifolium(incleftsofthemountainatthefootofHecla)。Epilobiumalpinum(inReikervalley,westofHavenfiord)。 Rosaceae。Rubusarcticus。Potentillaanserina。Potentillagronlandica(onrocksnearKallmanstungaandKollismola)。 Alchemillamontana。Sanguisorbaofficinalis。Geumrivale。Dryasoctopela(nearHavenfiord)。 Papilionaceae。Trifoliumrepens。 Footnotes: {1}InthisGutenbergeTextonlyMadamePfeiffer\'sworkappears—— DP。 {2}MadamePfeiffer\'sfirstjourneywastotheHolyLandin1842; andonherreturnfromIcelandshestartedin1846ona\"JourneyroundtheWorld,\"fromwhichshereturnedintheendof1848。Thisadventurousladyisnow(1853)travellingamongtheislandsoftheEasternArchipelago——ED。 {3}Aflorinisworthabout2s。1d。;sixtykreutzersgotoaflorin。 {4}AtKuttenbergthefirstsilvergroschenswerecoined,intheyear1300。Thesilverminesarenowexhausted,thoughothermines,ofcopper,zinc,&c。arewroughtintheneighbourhood。Thepopulationisonlyhalfofwhatitoncewas——ED。 {5}TheexpressionofMadamePfeiffer\'saboutFrederick\"payinghisscoretotheAustrians,\"issomewhatvague。Thefactsarethese。 In1757FredericktheGreatofPrussiainvadedBohemia,andlaidsiegetoPrague。BeforethiscityanAustrianarmylay,whowereattackedwithgreatimpetuositybyFrederick,andcompletelydefeated。Butthetownwasdefendedwithgreatvalour;andduringthetimethusgainedtheAustriangeneralDaunraisedfreshtroops,withwhichhetookthefieldatCollin。HerehewasattackedbyFrederick,whowasrouted,andallhisbaggageandcannoncaptured。 Thislosswas\"payinghisscore;\"andthedefeatwassocomplete,thatthegreatmonarchsatdownbythesideofafountain,andtracingfiguresinthesand,waslostforalongtimeinmeditationonthemeanstobeadoptedtoretrievehisfortune——ED。 {6}Imentionthislittleincidenttowarnthetravelleragainstpartingwithhiseffects。 {7}Thetrueversionofthisaffairisasfollows。JohnofNepomukwasapriestservingundertheArchbishopofPrague。Theking,Wenceslaus,wasahasty,crueltyrant,whowasdetestedbyallhissubjects,andhatedbytherestofGermany。Twopriestswereguiltyofsomecrime,andoneofthecourtchamberlains,actingunderroyalorders,causedtheprieststobeputtodeath。Thearchbishop,indignantatthis,placedthechamberlainunderaninterdict。Thissorousedthekingthatheattemptedtoseizethearchbishop,whotookrefugeinflight。JohnofNepomuk,however,andanotherpriest,wereseizedandputtothetorturetoconfesswhatwerethedesignsofthearchbishop。Thekingseemstohavesuspectedthatthequeenwasinsomewayconnectedwiththelineofconductpursuedbythearchbishop。JohnofNepomuk,however,refused,eventhoughtheKingwithhisownhandburnedhimwithatorch。Irritatedbyhisobstinatesilence,thekingcausedthepoormonktobecastoverthebridgeintotheMoldau。Thismonkwasafterwardscanonised,andmadethepatronsaintofbridges——ED。 {8}AlbertvonWallenstein(orWaldstein),thefamousDukeofFriedland,iscelebratedasoneoftheablestcommandersoftheimperialforcesduringtheprotractedreligiouscontestknowninGermanhistoryasthe\"ThirtyYears\'War。\"DuringitsearlierperiodWallensteingreatlydistinguishedhimself,andwascreatedbytheEmperorFerdinandDukeofFriedlandandgeneralissimooftheimperialforces。InthecourseofafewmonthsWallensteinraisedanarmyoffortythousandmenintheEmperor\'sservice。ThestrictestdisciplinewaspreservedWITHINhiscamp,buthistroopssupportedthemselvesbyasystemofrapineandplunderunprecedentedeveninthosedaysofmilitarylicense。Meritwasrewardedwithprincelymunificence,andthehighestofficeswerewithinthereachofeverycommonsoldierwhodistinguishedhimself;——trivialbreachesofdisciplinewerepunishedwithdeath。ThedarkandambitiousspiritofWallensteinwouldnotallowhimtorestsatisfiedwiththerewardsanddignitiesheapeduponhimbyhisimperialmaster。Hetemporisedandenteredintonegotiationswiththeenemy;andduringaninterviewwithaSwedishgeneral(Arnheim),isevensaidtohaveproposedanallianceto\"hunttheEmperortothedevil。\"ItissupposedthatheaspiredtothesovereigntyofBohemia。Ferdinandwasinformedoftheambitiousdesignsofhisgeneral,andatlengthdeterminedthatWallensteinshoulddie。Hedespatchedoneofhisgenerals,Gallas,tothecommander-in-chief,withamandatedeprivinghimofhisdignityofgeneralissimo,andnominatingGallasashissuccessor。Surprisedbeforehisplanswereripe,anddesertedbymanyonwhosesupporthehadrelied,WallensteinretiredhastilyuponEgra。Duringabanquetinthecastle,threeofhisgeneralswhoremainedfaithfultotheirleaderweremurderedinthedeadofnight。Rousedbythenoise,Wallensteinleaptfromhisbed,andencounteredthreesoldierswhohadbeenhiredtodespatchhim。 Speechlesswithastonishmentandindignation,hestretchedforthhisarms,andreceivinginhisbreastthestrokeofahalbert,felldeadwithoutagroan,inthefifty-firstyearofhisage。 Thefollowinganecdote,curiouslyillustrativeofthestateofaffairsinWallenstein\'scamp,isrelatedbySchillerinhisHistoryoftheThirtyYears\'War,aworkcontainingafullaccountofthelifeandactionsofthisextraordinaryman。\"TheextortionsofWallenstein\'ssoldiersfromthepeasantshadatoneperiodreachedsuchapitch,thatseverepenaltiesweredenouncedagainstallmarauders;andeverysoldierwhoshouldbeconvictedoftheftwasthreatenedwithahalter。Shortlyafterwards,itchancedthatWallensteinhimselfmetasoldierstrayinginthefield,whomhecausedtobeseized,ashavingviolatedthelaw,andcondemnedtothegallowswithoutatrial,byhisusualwordofdoom:\"Lettherascalbehung!\"Thesoldierprotested,andprovedhisinnocence。 \"Thenletthemhangtheinnocent,\"criedtheinhumanWallenstein; \"andtheguiltywilltremblethemore。\"Thepreparationsforcarryingthissentenceintoeffecthadalreadycommenced,whenthesoldier,whosawhimselflostwithoutremedy,formedthedesperateresolutionthathewouldnotdieunrevenged。Rushingfuriouslyuponhisleader,hewasseizedanddisarmedbythebystandersbeforehecouldcarryhisintentionintoeffect。\"Nowlethimgo,\"saidWallenstein;\"itwillexciteterrorenough。\"\"——ED。 {9}PoniatowskiwasthecommanderofthePolishlegioninthearmiesofNapoleon,bywhomhewashighlyrespected。AtthebattleofLeipzig,foughtinOctober1813,PoniatowskiandMarshalMacDonaldwereappointedtocommandtherearofNapoleon\'sarmy,which,aftertwodayshardfighting,wascompelledtoretreatbeforetheAllies。Thesegeneralsdefendedtheretreatofthearmysogallantly,thatalltheFrenchtroops,exceptthoseundertheirimmediatecommand,hadevacuatedthetown。Therear-guardwaspreparingtofollow,whentheonlybridgeovertheElsterthatremainedopentothemwasdestroyed,throughsomemistake。ThiseffectuallybarredtheescapeoftherearofNapoleon\'sarmy。A few,amongwhomwasMarshalMacDonald,succeededinswimmingacross; butPoniatowski,aftermakingabraveresistance,andrefusingtosurrender,wasdrownedinmakingthesameattempt——ED。 {10}Leipzighaslongbeenfamousasthechiefbook-martofGermany。AtthegreatEastermeetings,publishersfromallthedifferentstatesassembleatthe\"BuchhandlerBorse,\"andalargeamountofbusinessisdone。ThefairsofLeipzighavedonemuchtowardsestablishingthepositionofthiscityasoneofthefirsttradingtownsinGermany。Theytakeplacethreetimesannually:atNew-year,atEaster,andatMichaelmas;buttheEasterfairisbyfarthemostimportant。Thesecommercialmeetingslastaboutthreeweeks,andduringthistimethetownpresentsamostanimatedappearance,asthestreetsarethrongedwiththecostumesofalmosteverynation,thesmartdressoftheTyrolesecontrastinggailywiththesombregarbofthePolishJews。Theamountofbusinesstransactedatthesefairsisveryconsiderable;onseveraloccasions,abovetwentythousanddealershaveassembled。Thetradeisprincipallyinwoollencloths;butlighterwares,andevenornamentsofeverydescription,aresoldtoalargeextent。Themannerinwhicheveryavailableplaceistakenadvantageofisverycurious:archways,cellars,passages,andcourtyardsarealikefilledwithmerchandise,andthestreetsareattimessocrowdedastobealmostimpassable。Whenthethreeweekshavepassed,thewoodenboothswhichhavebeenerectedinthemarket-placeandtheprincipalstreetsaretakendown,thebuyersandsellersvanishtogether,andthevisitorwouldscarcelyrecogniseinthequietstreetsaroundhimthebustlingbusycityofafewdaysago——ED。 {11}Thefirebrokeouton4thMay1842,andragedwiththeutmostfuryforthreedays。Wholestreetsweredestroyed,andatleast2000housesburnedtotheground。Nearlyhalfamillionofmoneywasraisedinforeigncountriestoassistinrebuildingthecity,ofwhichaboutatenthwascontributedbyBritain。Suchawfulfires,fearfulthoughtheyareatthetime,seemabsolutelynecessarytogreattowns,astheycauseneedfulimprovementstobemade,whichtheindolenceorselfishnessoftheinhabitantswouldotherwiseprevent。Thereisnotagreatcitythathasnotatonetimeoranothersufferedseverelyfromfire,andhasrisenoutoftheruinsgreaterthanbefore——ED。 {12}TherearenodocksatHamburgh,consequentlyallthevesselslieintheriverElbe,andbothreceiveanddischargetheircargoesthere。MadamePfeiffer,however,ismistakeninsupposingthatonlyLondoncouldshowapictureofsomanyshipsandsomuchcommercialactivitysurpassingthatofHamburgh。Suchapicture,moreimpressiveeventhanthatseenintheElbe,isexhibitedeverydayintheMerseyortheHudson——ED。 {13}Kiel,however,isaplaceofconsiderabletrade;anddoubtlessthereasonwhyMadamePfeiffersawsofewvesselsatitwaspreciselythesamereasonwhyshesawsomanyatHamburgh。Kielcontainsanexcellentuniversity——ED。 {14}AtseaIcalculatebysea-miles,ofwhichsixtygotoadegree。 {15}ThisgreatDanishsculptorwasbornofpoorparentsatCopenhagen,onthe19thNovember,1770;hisfatherwasanIcelander,andearnedhislivingbycarvingfigure-headsforships。Albert,or\"Bertel,\"asheismoregenerallycalled,wasaccustomedduringhisyouthtoassisthisfatherinhislaboursonthewharf。AtanearlyagehevisitedtheAcademyatCopenhagen,wherehisgeniussoonbegantomakeitselfconspicuous。Attheageofsixteenhehadwonasilver,andattwentyagoldmedal。Twoyearslaterhecarriedoffthe\"great\"goldmedal,andwassenttostudyabroadattheexpenseoftheAcademy。In1797wefindhimpractisinghisartatRomeundertheeyeofZoegatheDane,whodoesnot,however,seemtohavediscoveredindicationsofextraordinarygeniusinthelaboursofhisyoungcountryman。ButaworkwassoontoappearwhichshouldsetallquestionsastoThorwaldsen\'stalentforeveratrest。In1801heproducedhiscelebratedstatueof\"Jason,\"whichwasatoncepronouncedbythegreatCanovatobe\"aworkinanewandagrandstyle。\"Afterthisperiodthepathoffamelayopenbeforetheyoungsculptor;hisbas-reliefsof\"Summer\"and\"Autumn,\"the\"DanceoftheMuses,\"\"CupidandPsyche,\"andnumerousotherworks,followedeachotherinrapidsuccession;andatlength,in1812,Thorwaldsenproducedhisextraordinarywork,\"TheTriumphofAlexander。\"In1819Thorwaldsenreturnedrichandfamoustothecityhehadquittedasayouthtwenty-threeyearsbefore;hewasreceivedwithgreathonour,andmanyfeastsandrejoicingswereheldtocelebratehisarrival。AfterasojournofayearThorwaldsenagainvisitedRome,wherehecontinuedhislaboursuntil1838,when,wealthyandindependent,heresolvedtorestinhisnativecountry。 ThistimehiswelcometoCopenhagenwasevenmoreenthusiasticthanin1819。Thewholeshorewaslinedwithspectators,andamidthunderingacclamationsthehorseswereunharnessedfromhiscarriage,andthesculptorwasdrawnintriumphbythepeopletohisatelier。DuringtheremainderofhislifeThorwaldsenpassedmuchofhistimeontheislandofNyso,wheremostofhislatestworkswereexecuted。OnSunday,March9th,1842,hehadbeenconversingwithacircleoffriendsinperfecthealth。Halm\'stragedyofGriseldawasannouncedfortheevening,andThorwaldsenproceededtothetheatretowitnesstheperformance。Duringtheovertureherosetoallowastrangertopass,thenresumedhisseat,andamomentafterwardshisheadsunkonhisbreast——hewasdead! Hisfuneralwasmostsumptuous。Richandpoorunitedtodohonourtothememoryofthegreatman,whohadendearedhimselftothembyhisvirtuesasbyhisgenius。Thecrown-princefollowedthecoffin,andthepeopleofCopenhagenstoodintwolongrows,anduncoveredtheirheadsasthecoffinofthesculptorwascarriedpast。Thekinghimselftookpartinthesolemnity。AtthetimeofhisdeceaseThorwaldsenhadcompletedhisseventy-secondyear——ED。 {16}TychodeBrahewasadistinguishedastronomer,wholivedbetween1546and1601。HewasanativeofDenmark。Hiswholelifemaybesaidtohavebeendevotedtoastronomy。AsmallworkthathepublishedwhenayoungmanbroughthimunderthenoticeoftheKingofDenmark,withwhoseassistanceheconstructed,onthesmallislandofHulln,afewmilesnorthofCopenhagen,thecelebratedObservatoryofUranienburg。Here,seatedin\"theancientchair\" referredtointhetext,andsurroundedbynumerousassistants,hedirectedforseventeenyearsaseriesofobservations,thathavebeenfoundextremelyaccurateanduseful。OnthedeathofhispatronheretiredtoPragueinBohemia,wherehewasemployedbyRodolphII。thenEmperorofGermany。HerehewasassistedbythegreatKepler,who,onTycho\'sdeathin1601,succeededhim——ED。 {17}ThefisheriesofIcelandhavebeenveryvaluable,andindeedthechiefsourceofthecommerceofthecountryeversinceitwasdiscovered。Thefishchieflycaughtarecodandthetuskorcat- fish。Theyareexportedinlargequantities,curedinvariousways。 SincethediscoveryofNewfoundland,however,thefisheriesofIcelandhavelostmuchoftheirimportance。Soearlyas1415,theEnglishsentfishingvesselstotheIcelandiccoast,andthesailorswhowereonboard,itwouldappear,behavedsobadlytothenativesthatHenryV。hadtomakesomecompensationtotheKingofDenmarkfortheirconduct。ThegreatestnumberoffishingvesselsfromEnglandthatevervisitedIcelandwasduringthereignofJamesI。,whosemarriagewiththesisteroftheDanishkingmightprobablymakeEnglandatthetimethemostfavourednation。ItwasinhistimethatanEnglishpirate,\"GentlemanJohn,\"ashewascalled,committedgreatravagesinIceland,forwhichJameshadafterwardstomakecompensation。ThechiefmarketsforthefishareintheCatholiccountriesofEurope。Intheseventeenthcentury,agreattrafficinfishwascarriedonbetweenIcelandandSpain——ED。 {18}ThedueschargedbytheDanishGovernmentonallvesselspassingthroughtheSoundhavebeenleviedsince1348,andthereforeenjoyaprescriptiverightofmorethanfivehundredyears。TheybringtotheDanishGovernmentayearlyrevenueofaboutaquarterofamillion;and,inconsiderationofthedues,theGovernmenthastosupportcertainlighthouses,andotherwisetorendersafeandeasythenavigationofthisgreatentrancetotheBaltic。Sound- dueswerefirstpaidinthepalmycommercialdaysoftheHanseaticLeague。ThatpowerfulcombinationofmerchantshadsufferedseverelyfromtheravagesofDanishpirates,royalandotherwise; butultimatelytheybecamesopowerfulthattherichmerchantcouldbeattheroyalbuccaneer,andtamehisferocitysoeffectuallyastoinducehimtobuildandmaintainthosebeacon-lightsontheshoresoftheSound,forwhoseusetheyandallnationsandmerchantsafterthemhaveagreedtopaycertainduties——ED。 {19}TheFeroeIslandsconsistofagreatmanyislets,someofthemmererocks,lyingabouthalfwaybetweenthenorthcoastofScotlandandIceland。AtonetimetheybelongedtoNorway,butcameintothepossessionofDenmarkatthesametimeasIceland。Theyareexceedinglymountainous,someofthemountainsattaininganelevationofabout2800feet。Thelargesttownorvillagedoesnotcontainmorethan1500or1600inhabitants。Thepopulationlivechieflyontheproduceoftheirlargeflocksofsheep,andonthedownprocured,oftenatgreatrisktohumanlife,fromtheeider- duckandotherbirdsbywhichtheislandisfrequented——ED。 {20}Ishouldbetrulysorryif,inthisdescriptionofour\"lifeaboardship,\"IhadsaidanythingwhichcouldgiveoffencetomykindfriendHerrKnudson。Ihave,however,presumedthateveryoneisawarethatthemodeoflifeatseaisdifferenttolifeinfamilies。Ihaveonlytoadd,thatHerrKnudsonlivedmostagreeablynotonlyinCopenhagen,butwhatisfarmoreremarkable,inIcelandalso,andwasprovidedwitheverycomfortprocurableinthelargestEuropeantowns。 {21}Itisnotonlyatseathatingeniousexcusesfordrinkingareinvented。Theloversofgoodorbadliquoronlandfindthesereasonsas\"plentyasblackberries,\"andapplythemwithamarvellouswantofstintorscruple。Inwarmclimatestheliquorisdranktokeepthedrinkercool,incoldtokeephimwarm;inhealthtopreventhimfrombeingsick,insicknesstobringhimbacktohealth。Veryseldomistherealreason,\"becauseIlikeit,\"given; andalltheseexcusesandreasonsmustberegardedasimplyingsomelingeringsenseofshameattheact,andasformingpartof\"thehomagethatvicealwayspaystovirtue。\"——ED。 {22}Thesailorscallthosewaves\"Spanish\"which,comingfromthewest,distinguishthemselvesbytheirsize。 {23}Theseislandsformarockygroup,onlyoneofwhichisinhabited,lyingaboutfifteenmilesfromthecoast。TheyaresaidtoderivetheirnamefromsomenativesofIreland,calledWest-men,whovisitedIcelandshortlyafteritsdiscoverybytheNorwegians。 Inthisthereisnothingimprobable,forweknowthatduringtheninthandtenthcenturiestheDanesandNormans,calledEasterlings,mademanydescentsontheIrishcoast;andoneNorwegianchiefisreportedtohaveassumedsovereignpowerinIrelandabouttheyear866,thoughhewasafterwardsdeposed,andflungintoalough,wherehewasdrowned:ratheranignominiousdeathfora\"sea-king。\"——ED。 {24}Thiswork,whichMadamePfeifferdoesnotpraisetoohighly,wasfirstpublishedin1810。Afterpassingthroughtwoeditions,itwasreprintedin1841,atacheapprice,inthevaluablepeople\'seditionsofstandardworks,publishedbyMessrs。ChambersofEdinburgh——ED。 {25}ItisrelatedofIngoldthathecarriedwithhimonhisvoyagethedoorofhisformerhouseinIreland,andthatwhenheapproachedthecoasthecastitintothesea,watchingthepointoflandwhichittouched;andonthatlandhefixedhisfuturehome。ThislandisthesameonwhichthetownofReikjaviknowstands。Theseoldsea- kings,likethemenofAthens,were\"inallthingstoosuperstitious。\"——ED。 {26}Thesesea-rovers,thatweretothenationsofEuropeduringthemiddleageswhattheDanes,Norwegians,andothernorthmenwereatanearlierperiod,enjoyedatthistimethefullflowoftheirlawlessprosperity。Theirinsolenceandpowerweresogreatthatmanynations,ourownincluded,weregladtopurchase,byayearlypayment,exemptionfromtheattacksofthesesea-rovers。TheAmericanspaidthistributesolateas1815。TheunfortunateIcelanderswhowerecarriedoffintheseventeenthcenturynearlyalldiedascaptivesinAlgiers。Attheendoftenyearstheywereliberated;butofthefourhundredonlythirty-sevenwerealivewhenthejoyfulintelligencereachedtheplaceoftheircaptivity;andofthesetwenty-fourdiedbeforerejoiningtheirnativeland——ED。 {27}Thistown,thecapitalofIceland,andtheseatofgovernment,isbuiltonanarmoftheseacalledtheFaxefiord,inthesouth- westpartoftheisland。Theresidentpopulationdoesnotexceed500,butthisisgreatlyincreasedduringtheannualfairs。Itconsistsmainlyoftwostreetsatrightanglestoeachother。Itcontainsalargechurchbuiltofstone,roofedwithtiles;anobservatory;theresidencesofthegovernorandthebishop,andtheprison,whichisperhapsthemostconspicuousbuildinginthetown—— ED。 {28}AsMadamePfeifferhadthusnoopportunityofattendingaballinIceland,thefollowingdescriptionofonegivenbySirGeorgeMackenziemaybeinterestingtothereader。 \"WegaveaballtotheladiesofReikjavikandtheneighbourhood。 Thecompanybegantoassembleaboutnineo\'clock。Wewereshewnintoasmalllow-roofedroom,inwhichwereanumberofmen,buttomysurpriseIsawnofemales。Wesoonfoundthem,however,inoneadjoining,whereitisthecustomforthemtowaittilltheirpartnersgotohandthemout。Onenteringthisapartment,IfeltconsiderabledisappointmentatnotobservingasinglewomandressedintheIcelandiccostume。ThedresseshadsomeresemblancetothoseofEnglishchambermaids,butwerenotsosmart。Anoldlady,thewifeofthemanwhokeptthetavern,washabitedlikethepicturesofourgreat-grandmothers。Sometimeafterthedancingcommenced,thebishop\'slady,andtwoothers,appearedintheproperdressofthecountry。