ThelittlechapelatKrisuvikisonlytwenty-twofeetlongbytenbroad；onmyarrivalitwashastilypreparedformyreception。
Saddles，ropes，clothes，hats，andotherarticleswhichlayscatteredabout，werehastilyflungintoacorner；mattressesandsomenicesoftpillowssoonappeared，andaverytolerablebedwaspreparedformeonalargechestinwhichthevestmentsofthepriest，thecoveringsofthealtar，&c。，weredeposited。Iwouldwillinglyhavelockedmyselfin，eatenmyfrugalsupper，andafterwardswrittenafewpagesofmydiarybeforeretiringtorest；
butthiswasoutofthequestion。Theentirepopulationofthevillageturnedouttoseeme，oldandyounghastenedtothechurch，andstoodroundinacircleandgazedatme。
Irksomeasthiscuriositywas，Iwasobligedtoendureitpatiently，forIcouldnothavesentthesegoodpeopleawaywithoutseriouslyoffendingthem；soIbeganquietlytounpackmylittleportmanteau，andproceededtoboilmycoffeeoveraspirit-lamp。Awhisperingconsultationimmediatelybegan；theyseemedparticularlystruckbymymodeofpreparingcoffee，andfollowedeveryoneofmymovementswitheagereyes。Myfrugalmealdispatched，Iresolvedtotrythepatienceofmyaudience，and，takingoutmyjournal，begantowrite。
Forafewminutestheyremainedquiet，thentheybegantowhisperonetoanother，\"Shewrites，shewrites，\"andthiswasrepeatednumberlesstimes。Therewasnosignofanydispositiontodepart；I
believeIcouldhavesattheretilldoomsday，andfailedtotiremyaudienceout。Atlength，afterthisscenehadlastedafullhour，I
couldstanditnolonger，andwasfaintorequestmyamiablevisitorstoretire，asIwishedtogotobed。
Mysleepthatnightwasnoneofthesweetest。Acertainfeelingofdiscomfortalwaysattachestothefactofsleepinginachurchalone，inthemidstofagrave-yard。Besidesthis，onthenightinquestionsuchadreadfulstormarosethatthewoodenwallscreakedandgroanedasthoughtheirfoundationsweregivingway。Thecoldwasalsorathersevere，mythermometerinsidethechurchshewingonlytwodegreesabovezero。Iwastrulythankfulwhenapproachingdaybroughtwithitthewelcomehourofdeparture。
June5th。
TheheavysleepinessandextremeindolenceofanIcelandicguiderenderdeparturebeforeseveno\'clockinthemorningathingnottobethoughtof。Thisis，however，oflittleconsequence，asthereisnonightinIcelandatthistimeofyear。
AlthoughthedistancewasmateriallyincreasedbyreturningtoReikjavikbywayofGrundivikandKeblevik，IchosethisrouteinordertopassthroughthewildestoftheinhabitedtractsinIceland。
Thefirststage，fromKrisuviktoGrundivik，adistanceoftwelvetofourteenmiles，laythroughfieldsoflava，consistingmostlyofsmallblocksofstoneandfragments，fillingthevalleysocompletelythatnotasinglegreenspotremained。Iheremetwithmassesoflavawhichpresentedanappearanceofsingularbeauty。
Theywereblackmounds，tenortwelvefeetinheight，pileduponeachotherinthemostvariedforms，theirbasescoveredwithabroadbandofwhitish-colouredmoss，whilethetopswerebrokenintopeaksandconesofthemostfantasticshapes。Theselava-streamsseemtodatefromarecentperiod，asthemassesaresomewhatscalyandglazed。
Grundivik，alittlevillageofafewwretchedcottages，lieslikeanoasisinthisdesertoflava。
Myguidewishedtoremainhere，assertingthattherewasnoplacebetweenthisandKeblevikwhereIcouldpassthenight，andthatitwouldbeimpossibleforourhorses，exhaustedastheywerewithyesterday\'smarch，tocarryustoKeblevikthatnight。Thetruereasonofthissuggestionwasthathewishedtoprolongthejourneyforanotherday。
LuckilyIhadagoodmapwithme，andbydintofconsultingitcouldcalculatedistanceswithtolerableaccuracy；itwasalsomycustombeforestartingonajourneytomakeparticularinquiriesastohowIshouldarrangethedailystages。
SoIinsisteduponproceedingatonce；andsoonwewerewendingourwaythroughfieldsoflavatowardsStad，asmallvillagesixorsevenmilesdistantfromGrundivik。
OnthewayInoticedamountainofmostsingularappearance。Incolouritcloselyresemblediron；itssideswereperfectlysmoothandshining，andstreaksofthecolourofyellowochretraversedithereandthere。
Stadistheresidenceofapriest。Contrarytotheassertionsofmyguide，IfoundthisplacefarmorecheerfulandhabitablethanGrundivik。Whilstourhorseswereresting，thepriestpaidmeavisit，andconductedme，not，asIanticipated，intohishouse，butintothechurch。Chairsandstoolswerequicklybroughtthere，andmyhostintroducedhiswifeandchildrentome，afterwhichwepartookofcoffee，breadandcheese，&c。Ontherailsurroundingthealtarhungtheclothesofthepriestandhisfamily，differinglittleintextureandmakefromthoseofthepeasants。
Thepriestappearedtobeaveryintelligent，well-readman。I
couldspeaktheDanishlanguageprettyfluently，andwasthereforeabletoconversewithhimonvarioussubjects。OnhearingthatI
hadalreadybeeninPalestine，heputanumberofquestionstome，fromwhichIcouldplainlyseethathewasalikewellacquaintedwithgeography，history，naturalscience，&c。Heaccompaniedmeseveralmilesonmyroad，andwechattedawaythetimeverypleasantly。
ThedistancebetweenKrisuvikandKeblevikisaboutforty-twomiles。
Theroadliesthroughamostdrearylandscape，amongvastdesertplains，frequentlytwenty-fivetothirtymilesincircumference，entirelydivestedofalltracesofvegetation，andcoveredthroughouttheirextremeareabymassesoflava——gloomymonumentsofvolcanicagency。Andyethere，attheveryheartofthesubterraneanfire，Isawonlyasinglemountain，thesummitofwhichhadfallenin，andpresentedtheappearanceofacrater。Therestwereallcompletelyclosed，terminatingsometimesinabeautifulroundtop，andsometimesinsharppeaks；inotherinstancestheyformedlongnarrowchains。
Whocantellwhencetheseall-destroyingmassesoflavahavepouredforth，orhowmanyhundredyearstheyhavelaininthesepetrifiedvalleys?
Keblevikliesonthesea-coast；buttheharbourisinsecure，sothatshipsremainhereatanchoronlysolongasisabsolutelynecessary；
therearefrequentlyonlytwoorthreeshipsintheharbour。
Afewwoodenhouses，twoofwhichbelongtoHerrKnudson，andsomepeasants\'cottages，aretheonlybuildingsinthislittlevillage。
Iwashospitablyreceived，andrestedfromthetoilsofthedayatthehouseofHerrSiverson，HerrKnudson\'smanager。
Onthefollowingday(June6th)IhadalongridetoReikjavik，thirty-sixgoodmiles，mostlythroughfieldsoflava。
ThewholetractofcountryfromGrundivikalmosttoHavenfiordiscalled\"Thelava-fieldsofReikianes。\"
Tiredandalmostbenumbedwithcold，IarrivedintheeveningatReikjavik，withnootherwishthantoretiretorestasfastaspossible。
InthesethreedaysIhadridden114miles，besidesenduringmuchfromcold，storms，andrain。Tomygreatsurprise，theroadshadgenerallybeengood；therewere，however，manyplaceshighlydangerousanddifficult。
Butwhatmatteredthesefatigues，forgotten，astheywere，afterasinglenight\'srest?whatweretheyincomparisontotheunutterablybeautifulandmarvellousphenomenaofthenorth，whichwillremaineverpresenttomyimaginationsolongasmemoryshallbesparedme?
Thedistancesofthisexcursionwere:FromReikjaviktoKrisuvik，37miles；fromKrisuviktoKeblevik，39miles；fromKebleviktoReikjavik，38miles:total，114miles。
CHAPTERV
Astheweathercontinuedfine，Iwishedtolosenotimeincontinuingmywanderings。Ihadnexttomakeatourofsome560
miles；itwasthereforenecessarythatIshouldtakeanextrahorse，partlythatitmightcarrymyfewpackages，consistingofapillow，somerye-bread，cheese，coffee，andsugar，butchieflythatImightbeenabledtochangehorseseveryday，asonehorsewouldnothavebeenequaltothefatigueofsolongajourney。
Myformerguidecouldnotaccompanymeonmypresentjourney，ashewasunacquaintedwithmostoftheroads。Mykindprotectors，HerrKnudsonandHerrBernhoft，wereobligingenoughtoprovideanotherguideforme；adifficulttask，asitisarareoccurrencetofindanIcelanderwhounderstandstheDanishlanguage，andwhohappenstobesoberwhenhisservicesarerequired。Atlengthapeasantwasfoundwhosuitedourpurpose；butheconsideredtwoflorinsperdiemtoolittlepay，soIwasobligedtogiveanadditionalzwanziger。
Ontheotherhand，itwasarrangedthattheguideshouldalsotaketwohorses，inorderthathemightchangeeveryday。
The16thofJunewasfixedforthecommencementofourjourney。
Fromtheveryfirstdaymyguidedidnotshewhimselfinanamiablepointofview。Onthemorningofourdeparturehissaddlehadtobepatchedtogether，andinsteadofcomingwithtwohorses，heappearedwithonlyone。Hecertainlypromisedtobuyasecondwhenweshouldhaveproceededsomemiles，addingthatitwouldbecheapertobuyoneatalittledistancefromthe\"capital。\"Iatoncesuspectedthiswasmerelyanexcuseoftheguide\'s，andthathewishedtherebytoavoidhavingthecareoffourhorses。TheeventprovedIwasright；notasinglehorsecouldbefoundthatsuited，andsomypoorlittleanimalhadtocarrytheguide\'sbaggageinadditiontomyown。
Loadingthepack-horsesisabusinessofsomedifficulty，andisconductedinthefollowingmanner:sundrylargepiecesofdriedturfarelaiduponthehorse\'sback，butnotfastened；overtheseisbuckledaroundpieceofwood，furnishedwithtwoorthreepegs。Tothesepegsthechestsandpackagesaresuspended。Iftheweightisnotquiteequallybalanced，itisnecessarytostopandrepackfrequently，forthewholeloadatoncegetsaskew。
Thetrunksusedinthiscountryaremassivelyconstructedofwood，coveredwitharoughhide，andstrengthenedonallsideswithnails，asthoughtheywereintendedtolastaneternity。Thepoorhorseshaveaconsiderableweighttobearinemptyboxesalone，sothatverylittlerealluggagecanbetaken。Theweightwhichahorsehastocarryduringalongjourneyshouldneverexceed150lbs。
Itisimpossibletorememberhowmanytimesourbaggagehadtoberepackedduringaday\'sjourney。Thegreatpiecesofturfwouldneverstayintheirplaces，andeverymomentsomethingwaswrong。
Nothinglessthanamiracle，however，canprevailonanIcelandertodepartfromhisregularroutine。Hisancestorspackedinsuchandsuchamanner，andsohemustpackalso。{35}
Wehadajourneyofabovefortymilesbeforeusthefirstday，andyet，onaccountofthedamagedsaddle，wecouldnotstartbeforeeighto\'clockinthemorning。
ThefirsttwelveorfourteenmilesofourjourneylaythroughthegreatvalleyinwhichReikjavikissituated；thevalleycontainsmanylowhills，someofwhichwehadtoclimb。Severalrivers，chiefamongwhichwastheLaxselv，opposedourprogress，butatthisseasonoftheyeartheycouldbecrossedonhorsebackwithoutdanger。Nearlyallthevalleysthroughwhichwepassedto-daywerecoveredwithlava，butneverthelessofferedmanybeautifulspots。
Manyofthehillswepassedseemedtometobeextinctvolcanoes；
thewholeupperportionwascoveredwithcolossalslabsoflava，asthoughthecraterhadbeenchokedupwiththem。Lavaofthesamedescriptionandcolour，butinsmallerpieces，laystrewedaround。
Forthefirsttwelveorfourteenmilestheseaisvisiblefromthebrowofeverysuccessivehill。Thecountryisalsoprettygenerallyinhabited；butafterwardsadistanceofnearlythirtymilesispassed，onwhichthereisnotahumanhabitation。Thetravellerjourneysfromonevalleyintoanother，andinthemidstofthesehill-girtdesertsseesasinglesmallhut，erectedfortheconvenienceofthosewho，inthewinter，cannotaccomplishthelongdistanceinoneday，andmusttakeuptheirquartersforthenightinthevalley。Noonemust，however，rashlyhopetofindhereahumanbeingintheshapeofahost。Thelittlehouseisquiteuninhabited，andconsistsonlyofasingleapartmentwithfournakedwalls。Thevisitormustdependontheaccommodationhecarrieswithhim。
Theplainsthroughwhichwetravelledto-daywerecoveredthroughoutwithoneandthesamekindoflava。Itoccursinmasses，andalsoinsmallerstones，isnotveryporous，ofalightgreycolour，andmixed，inmanyinstances，withsandorearth。
SomemilesfromThingvallaweenteredavalley，thesoilofwhichisfine，butneverthelessonlysparinglycoveredwithgrass，andfulloflittleacclivities，mostlyclothedwithdelicatemoss。Ihavenodoubtthattheindolenceoftheinhabitantsalonepreventsthemfrommateriallyimprovingmanyapieceofground。TheworstsoilisthatintheneighbourhoodofReikjavik；yetthereweseemanyagarden，andmanyapieceofmeadow-land，wrung，asitwere，fromthebarrenearthbylabourandpains。Whyshouldnotthesamethingbedonehere——themoresoasnaturehasalreadyaccomplishedthepreliminarywork?
Thingvalla，ourresting-placeforto-night，issituateonalakeofthesamename，andonlybecomesvisiblewhenthetravelleriscloseuponit。Thelakeisratherconsiderable，beingalmostthreemilesinlength，andatsomepartscertainlymorethantwomilesinbreadth；itcontainstwosmallislands，——SandeyandNesey。
Mywholeattentionwasstillrivetedbythelakeanditsnakedandgloomycircleofmountains，whensuddenly，asifbymagic，Ifoundmyselfstandingonthebrinkofachasm，intowhichIcouldscarcelylookwithoutashudder；involuntarilyIthoughtofWeber\'sFreyschutzandthe\"Wolf\'sHollow。\"{36}
ThesceneisthemorestartlingfromthecircumstancethatthetravellerapproachingThingvallainacertaindirectionseesonlytheplainsbeyondthischasm，andhasnoideaofitsexistence。Itwasafissuresomefiveorsixfathomsbroad，butseveralhundredfeetindepth；andwewereforcedtodescendbyasmall，steep，dangerouspath，acrosslargefragmentsoflava。Colossalblocksofstone，threateningtheunhappywandererwithdeathanddestruction，hangloosely，intheformofpyramidsandofbrokencolumns，fromtheloftywallsoflava，whichencirclethewholelongravineintheformofagallery。Speechless，andinanxioussuspense，wedescendapartofthischasm，hardlydaringtolookup，muchlesstogiveutterancetoasinglesound，lestthevibrationshouldbringdownoneoftheseavalanchesofstone，totheterrificforceofwhichtherockyfragmentsscatteredaroundbearampletestimony。Thedistinctnesswithwhichechorepeatsthesoftestsoundandthelightestfootfallistrulywonderful。
Theappearancepresentedbythehorses，whichareallowedtocomedowntheravineaftertheirmastershavedescended，ismostpeculiar。Onecouldfancytheywereclingingtothewallsofrock。
ThisravineisknownbythenameofAlmanagiau。Itsentirelengthisaboutamile，butasmallportiononlycanbetraversed；therestisblockedupbymassesoflavaheapedoneupontheother。Ontherighthand，therockywallopens，andformsanoutlet，overformidablemassesoflava，intothebeautifulvalleyofThingvalla。
IcouldhavefanciedIwanderedthroughthedepthsofacrater，whichhadpiledarounditselfthesestupendousbarriersduringamightyeruptionintimeslonggoneby。
ThevalleyofThingvallaisconsideredoneofthemostbeautifulinIceland。Itcontainsmanymeadows，forming，asitwere，aplaceofrefugefortheinhabitants，andenablingthemtokeepmanyheadofcattle。TheIcelandersconsiderthislittlegreenvalleythefinestspotintheworld。Notfarfromtheopeningoftheravine，onthefartherbankoftheriverOxer，liesthelittlevillageofThingvalla，consistingofthreeorfourcottagesandasmallchapel。
Afewscatteredfarmsandcottagesaresituatedintheneighbourhood。
ThingvallawasonceoneofthemostimportantplacesinIceland；thestrangerisstillshewnthemeadow，notfarfromthevillage，onwhichtheAllthing(generalassembly)washeldannuallyintheopenair。Herethepeopleandtheirleadersmet，pitchingtheirtentsafterthemannerofnomads。Hereitwasalsothatmanyanopinionandmanyadecreewereenforcedbytheweightofsteel。
Thechiefsappeared，ostensiblyforpeace，attheheadoftheirtribe；yetmanyofthemreturnednotagain，butbeneaththesword-
strokeoftheirenemiesobtainedthatpeacewhichnomanseeketh，butwhichallmenfind。
Ononesidethevalleyisskirtedbythelake，ontheotheritisboundedbyloftymountains，someofthemstillpartlycoveredwithsnow。Notfarfromtheentranceoftheravine，theriverOxerrushesoverawallofrockofconsiderableheight，formingabeautifulwaterfall。
ItwasstillfinecleardaylightwhenIreachedThingvalla，andtheskyrosepureandcloudlessoverthefardistance。Itseemedthereforethemoresingulartometoseeafewcloudsskimmingoverthesurfaceofthemountains，nowshroudingapartoftheminvapour，nowwreathingthemselvesroundtheirsummits，nowvanishingentirely，toreappearagainatadifferentpoint。
ThisisaphenomenonfrequentlyobservedinIcelandduringthefinestdays，andoneIhadoftennoticedintheneighbourhoodofReikjavik。Underaclearandcloudlesssky，alightmistwouldappearonthebrowofamountain，——inamomentitwouldincreasetoalargecloud，andafterremainingstationaryforatime，itfrequentlyvanishedsuddenly，orsoaredslowlyaway。Howeveroftenitmayberepeated，thisappearancecannotfailtointeresttheobserver。
HerrBeck，theclergymanatThingvalla，offeredmetheshelterofhishutforthenight；asthebuilding，however，didnotlookmuchmorepromisingthanthepeasants\'cottagesbywhichitwassurrounded，Ipreferredquarteringmyselfinthechurch，permissiontodosobeingbuttooeasilyobtainedonalloccasions。ThischapelisnotmuchlargerthanthatatKrisuvik，andstandsatsomedistancefromthefewsurroundingcottages。ThiswasperhapsthereasonwhyIwasnotincommodedbyvisitors。Ihadalreadyconqueredanysuperstitiousfearsderivedfromtheproximityofmysilentneighboursinthechurchyard，andpassedthenightquietlyononeofthewoodenchestsofwhichIfoundseveralscatteredabout。
Habitiscertainlyeverything；afterafewnightsofgloomysolitudeonethinksnomoreaboutthematter。
June17th。
Ourjourneyofto-daywasmoreformidablethanthatofyesterday。I
wasassuredthatReikholt(alsocalledReikiadal)wasalmostfiftymilesdistant。Distancescannotalwaysbeaccuratelymeasuredbythemap；impassablebarriers，onlytobeavoidedbycircuitousroutes，oftenopposethetraveller\'sprogress。Thiswasthecasewithusto-day。Tojudgefromthemap，thedistancefromThingvallatoReikholtseemedlessbyagreatdealthanthatfromReikjaviktoThingvalla，andyetwewerefullfourteenhoursaccomplishingit——
twohourslongerthanonouryesterday\'sjourney。
SolongasourwaylaythroughthevalleyofThingvallatherewasnolackofvariety。AtonetimetherewasanarmoftheriverOxertocross，atanotherwetraversedacheerfulmeadow；sometimesweevenpassedthroughlittleshrubberies，——thatistosay，accordingtotheIcelandicacceptationoftheterm。Inmycountrytheselovelyshrubberieswouldhavebeenclearedawayasuselessunderwood。Thetreestrailalongtheground，seldomattainingaheightofmorethantwofeet。Whenoneofthesepunystemsreachesfourfeetinheight，itisconsideredagigantictree。Thegreaterportionoftheseminiatureforestsgrowonthelavawithwhichthevalleyiscovered。
Theformationofthelavahereassumesanewcharacter。Uptothispointithasmostlyappearedeitherinlargemassesorinstreamslyinginstrataoneabovetheother；butherethelavacoveredthegreaterportionofthegroundintheformofimmenseflatslabsorblocksofrock，oftensplitinaverticaldirection。Isawlongfissuresofeightortenfeetinbreadth，andfromtentofifteenfeetindepth。Inthesecleftstheflowersblossomearlier，andtheferngrowstallerandmoreluxuriantly，thanintheboisterousupperworld。
AfterthevalleyofThingvallahasbeenpassedthejourneybecomesverymonotonous。Thedistrictbeyondiswhollyuninhabited，andwetravelledmanymileswithoutseeingasinglecottage。Fromonedesertvalleywepassedintoanother；allwerealikecoveredwithlight-greyoryellowishlava，andatintervalsalsowithfinesand，inwhichthehorsessunkdeeplyateverystep。Themountainssurroundingthesevalleyswerenoneofthehighest，anditwasseldomthatajokulorglaciershoneforthfromamongthem。Themountainshadacertainpolishedappearance，theirsidesbeingperfectlysmoothandshining。Insomeinstances，however，massesoflavaformedbeautifulgroups，bearingagreatresemblancetoruinsofancientbuildings，andstandingoutinpeculiarlyfinerelieffromthesmoothwalls。
Thesemountainsareofdifferentcolours；theyareblackorbrown，greyoryellow，&c。；andthedifferentshadesofthesecoloursaredisplayedwithmarvellouseffectinthebrilliantsunshine。
Ninehoursofuninterruptedridingbroughtusintoalargetractofmoorland，veryscantilycoveredwithmoss。Yetthiswasthefirstandonlygrazing-placetobemetwithinallthelongdistancefromThingvalla。Wethereforemadeahaltoftwohours，toletourpoorhorsespickascantymeal。Largeswarmsofminutegnats，whichseemedtoflyintooureyes，nose，andmouth，annoyedusdreadfullyduringourstayinthisplace。
Onthismoortherewasalsoasmalllake；andhereIsawforthefirsttimeasmallflockofswans。Unfortunatelythesecreaturesaresoverytimid，thatthemostcautiousapproachofahumanbeingcausesthemtorisewiththespeedoflightningintotheair。Iwasthereforeobligedperforcetobecontentwithadistantviewoftheseproudbirds。Theyalwayskeepinpairs，andthelargestflockIsawdidnotconsistofmorethanfoursuchpairs。
SincemyfirstarrivalinIcelandIhadconsideredtheinhabitantsanindolentraceofpeople；to-dayIwasstrengthenedinmyopinionbythefollowingslightcircumstance。Themoorlandonwhichwehaltedtorestwasseparatedfromtheadjoiningfieldsoflavabyanarrowditchfilledwithwater。Acrossthisditchafewstonesandslabshadbeenlaid，toformakindofbridge。Nowthisbridgewassofullofholesthatthehorsescouldnottellwheretoplanttheirfeet，andrefusedobstinatelytocrossit，sothatintheendwewereobligedtodismountandleadthemacross。Wehadscarcelypassedthisplace，andsatdowntorest，whenacaravanoffifteenhorses，ladenwithplanks，driedfish，&c。arrivedatthebridge。
Ofcoursethepoorcreaturesobservedthedangerousground，andcouldonlybedrivenbyhardblowstoadvance。Hardlytwentypacesofftherewerestonesinabundance；butratherthandevoteafewminutestofillinguptheholes，theselazypeoplebeattheirhorsescruelly，andexposedthemtotheriskofbreakingtheirlegs。I
pitiedthepooranimals，whichwouldbecompelledtorecrossthebridge，soheartily，that，aftertheyaregone，Idevotedapartofmyresting-timetocollectingstonesandfillinguptheholes，——abusinesswhichscarcelyoccupiedmeaquarterofanhour。
Itisinterestingtonoticehowthehorsesknowbyinstinctthedangerousspotsinthestonywastes，andinthemoorsandswamps。
Onapproachingtheseplacestheybendtheirheadstowardstheearth，andlooksharplyroundonallsides。Iftheycannotdiscoverafirmresting-placeforthefeet，theystopatonce，andcannotbeurgedforwardwithoutmanyblows。
Afterahaltoftwohourswecontinuedourjourney，whichagainledusacrossfieldsoflava。Atpastnineo\'clockintheeveningwereachedanelevatedplain，aftertraversingwhichforhalfanhourwesawstretchedatourfeetthevalleyofReikholtorReikiadal；itisfourteentoseventeenmileslong，ofagoodbreadth，andgirtroundbyarowofmountains，amongwhichseveraljokulssparkleintheiricygarments。
AsunsetseeninthesublimewildnessofIcelandicsceneryhasapeculiarlybeautifuleffect。Overthesevastplains，divestedoftreesorshrubs，coveredwithdarklava，andshutinbymountainsalmostofasablehue，thepartingsunshedsanalmostmagicalradiance。Thepeaksofthemountainsshineinthebrightpartingrays，thejokulsareshroudedinthemostdelicateroseatehue，whilethelowerpartsofthemountainslieindeepshadow，andfrowndarklyonthevalleys，whichresembleasheetofdarkbluewater，withanatmosphereofabluish-redcolourfloatingaboveit。Themostimpressivefeatureofallistheprofoundsilenceandsolitude；
notasoundcanbeheard，notalivingcreatureistobeseen；everythingappearsdead。Throughoutthebroadvalleysnotatownnoravillage，no，notevenasolitaryhouseoratreeorshrub，variestheprospect。Theeyewandersoverthevastdesert，andfindsnotonefamiliarobjectonwhichitcanrest。
To-night，asatpasteleveno\'clockwereachedtheelevatedplain，I
sawasunsetwhichIshallneverforget。Thesundisappearedbehindthemountains，andinitssteadagorgeousruddygleamlighteduphillandvalleyandglacier。ItwaslongereIcouldturnawaymyeyesfromtheglitteringheights，andyetthevalleyalsoofferedmuchthatwasstrikingandbeautiful。
Throughoutalmostitsentirelengththisvalleyformedameadow，fromtheextremitiesofwhichcolumnsofsmokeandboilingspringsburstforth。Themistshadalmostevaporated，andtheatmospherewasbrightandclear，moretransparenteventhanIhadseenitinanyothercountry。Inowforthefirsttimenoticed，thatinthevalleyitselftheradiancewasalmostasclearasthelightofday，sothatthemostminuteobjectscouldbeplainlydistinguished。
Thiswas，however，extremelynecessary，forsteepanddangerouspathsleadovermassesoflavaintothevalley。Ononesideranalittleriver，formingmanypicturesquewaterfalls，someofthemabovethirtyfeetinheight。
Istrainedmyeyesinvaintodiscoveranywhere，inthisgreatvalley，alittlechurch，which，ifitonlyofferedmeahardbenchforacouch，wouldatanyrateaffordmeashelterfromthesharpnight-wind；foritisreallynojoketorideforfifteenhours，withnothingtoeatbutbreadandcheese，andthennoteventohavethepleasantprospectofahotelalavilladeLondresordeParis。
Alas，mywisheswerefarmoremodest。Iexpectednoporteratthegatetogivethesignalofmyarrival，nowaiter，andnochambermaid；IonlydesiredalittlespotintheneighbourhoodofthedeardepartedIcelanders。Iwassuddenlyrecalledfromthesehappydelusionsbythevoiceoftheguide，whocriedout:\"Hereweareatourdestinationforto-night。\"Ilookedjoyfullyround；
alas!Icouldonlyseeafewofthosecottageswhichareneverobserveduntilyoualmosthityournoseagainstoneofthem，asthegrass-coveredwallscanhardlybedistinguishedfromthesurroundingmeadow。
Itwasalreadymidnight。Westopped，andturnedourhorsesloose，toseeksupperandrestinthenearestmeadow。Ourlotwasalessfortunateone。Theinhabitantswerealreadyburiedindeepslumbers，fromwhicheventhebarkingsetupbythedogsatourapproachfailedtoarousethem。Acupofcoffeewouldcertainlyhavebeenveryacceptabletome；yetIwasloathtorouseanyonemerelyforthis。Apieceofbreadsatisfiedmyhunger，andadraughtofwaterfromthenearestspringtastedmostdeliciouslywithit。Afterconcludingmyfrugalmeal，Isoughtoutacornerbesideacottage，whereIwaspartiallyshelteredfromthetoo-
familiarwind；andwrappingmycloakaroundme，laydownontheground，havingwishedmyself，withallmyheart，agoodnight\'srestandpleasantdreams，inthebroaddaylight，{37}underthecanopyofheaven。Justdroppingofftosleep，Iwassurprisedbyamildrain，which，ofcourse，atonceputtoflighteveryideaofrepose。Thus，afterall，Iwasobligedtowakesomeoneup，toobtaintheshelterofaroof。
Thebestroom，i。e。thestore-room，wasthrownopenformyaccommodation，andasmallwoodenbedsteadplacedatmydisposal。
Chambersofthiskindareluckilyfoundwherevertwoorthreecottagesliecontiguoustoeachother；theyarecertainlyfarfrominviting，asdriedfish，train-oil，tallow，andmanyotherarticlesofthesamedescriptioncombinetoproduceamostunsavouryatmosphere。Yettheyareinfinitelypreferabletothedwellingsofthepeasants，which，bytheby，arethemostfilthydensthatcanbeimagined。Besidesbeingredolentofeverydescriptionofbadodour，thesecottagesareinfestedwithvermintoadegreewhichcancertainlynotbesurpassed，exceptinthedwellingsoftheGreenlandersandLaplanders。
June18th。
Yesterdaywehadbeenforcedtoputuponourpoorhorsesawearisomedistanceofmorethanfiftymiles，asthelastfortymilesledusthroughdesertanduninhabitedplaces，boastingnotevenasinglecottage。To-day，however，oursteedshadalightdutytoperform，forweonlyproceededsevenmilestothelittlevillageofReikiadal，whereIhaltedto-day，inordertovisitthecelebratedsprings。
TheinconsiderablevillagecalledReikiadal，consistingonlyofachurchandafewcottages，issituatedamidstpleasantmeadows。
Altogetherthisvalleyisrichinbeautifulmeadow-lands；
consequentlyoneseesmanyscatteredhomesteadsandcottages，withfineherdsofsheep，andatolerablenumberofhorses；cowsarelessplentiful。
ThechurchatReikiadalisamongtheneatestandmostroomyofthosewhichcameundermyobservation。Thedwellingofthepriesttoo，thoughonlyaturf-coveredcottage，islargeenoughforthecomfortoftheoccupants。Thisparishextendsoveraconsiderablearea，andisnotthinlyinhabited。
Myfirstcareonmyarrivalwastobegtheclergyman，HerrJonasJonason，toprocureforme，asexpeditiouslyaspossible，freshhorsesandaguide，inorderthatImightvisitthesprings。Hepromisedtoprovidemewithbothwithinhalfanhour；andyetitwasnotuntilthreehourshadbeenwasted，that，withinfinitepains，I
sawmywishfulfilled。ThroughoutmystayinIceland，nothingannoyedmemorethantheslownessandunconcerndisplayedbytheinhabitantsinalltheirundertakings。Everywishandeveryrequestoccupiesalongtimeinitsfulfilment。HadInotbeencontinuallyatthegoodpastor\'sside，IbelieveIshouldscarcelyhaveattainedmyobject。Atlengtheverythingwasready，andthepastorhimselfwaskindenoughtobemyguide。
Werodeaboutfourmilesthroughthisbeautifulvale，andinthisshortdistancewerecompelledatleastsixtimestocrosstheriverSidumule，whichrollsitsmosttortuouscoursethroughtheentirevalley。Atlengththefirstspringwasreached；itemergesfromarockaboutsixfeetinheight，standinginthemidstofamoor。Theuppercavityofthenaturalreservoir，inwhichthewatercontinuallyboilsandseethes，isbetweentwoandthreefeetindiameter。Thisspringneverstops；thejetofwaterrisestwo，andsometimesevenfourfeethigh，andisabouteighteeninchesthick。
Itispossibletoincreasethevolumeofthejetforafewseconds，bythrowinglargestonesorlumpsofearthintotheopening，andthusstirringupthespring。Thestonesarecastforciblyforth，andthelumpsofearth，dissolvedbytheactionofthewater，imparttothelatteradingycolour。
WhoeverhasseenthejetofwateratCarlsbad，inBohemia，canwellimaginetheappearanceofthisspring，whichcloselyresemblesthatofCarlsbad。{38}
Intheimmediateneighbourhoodofthespringisanabyss，inwhichwateriscontinuallyseething，butneverrisesintotheair。Atalittledistance，onahighrock，risingoutoftheriverSidumule，notfarfromtheshore，areothersprings。Theyarethreeinnumber，eachatashortdistancefromthenext，andoccupynearlytheentireuppersurfaceoftherock。Lowerdownwefindareservoirofboilingwater；andatthefootoftherock，andonthenearestshore，aremanymorehotsprings；butmostoftheseareinconsiderable。Manyofthesehotspringsemergealmostfromthecoldriveritself。
Thechiefgroup，however，liesstillfartheroff，onarockwhichmaybeabouttwentyfeetinheight，andfiftyinlength。ItiscalledTungaHuer，andrisesfromthemidstofamoor。Onthisrocktherearenolessthansixteensprings，someemergingfromitsbase，othersratherabovethemiddle，butnonefromthetopoftherock。
TheconstructionofthebasinsandtheheightanddiameterofthejetswerepreciselysimilartothoseIhavealreadydescribed。Allthesesixteenspringsaresoneareachotherthattheydonotevenoccupytwosidesoftherock。Itisimpossibletoformanideaofthemagnificenceofthissingularspectacle，whichbecomesreallyfairy-like，ifthebeholderhavethecouragetoclimbtherockitself，aproceedingofsomedanger，thoughoflittledifficulty。
Theupperstratumoftherockissoftandwarm，presentingalmosttheappearanceofmudthickenedwithsandandsmallstones。Everyfootstepleavesatracebehindit，andthevisitorhascontinuallybeforehiseyesthefearofbreakingthrough，andfallingintoahotspringhiddenfromviewbyathincovering。Thegoodpastorwalkedinadvanceofme，withastick，andprobedthedangeroussurfaceasmuchaspossible。Iwasloathtostaybehind，andsuddenlywefoundourselvesatthesummitoftherock。Herewecouldtakein，atoneview，thesixteenspringsgushingfrombothitssides。Iftheviewfrombelowhadbeenmostinterestingandsingular，howshallI
describeitsappearanceasseenfromabove?Sixteenjetsofwaterseenatoneglance，sixteenreservoirs，inalltheirdiversityofformandconstruction，openingatoncebeneaththefeetofthebeholder，seemedalmosttoowonderfulasight。Forgettingallpusillanimousfeelings，IstoodandhonouredtheCreatorinthesehismarvellousworks。ForalongtimeIstood，andcouldnottireofgazingintotheabyssesfromwhosedarknessthemassesofwhiteandfoamingwatersprunghissingintotheair，tofallagain，andhasteninquietuniontowardstheneighbouringriver。Thegoodpastorfounditnecessarytoremindmeseveraltimesthatourpositionherewasneitherofthesafestnorofthemostcomfortable，andthatitwasthereforehightimetoabandonit。Ihadceasedtothinkoftheinsecurityofthegroundwetrod，andscarcelynoticedthemightycloudsofhotvapourwhichfrequentlysurroundedandthreatenedtosuffocateus，obligingustostepsuddenlybackwithwettedfaces。Itwasfortunatethatthesewaterscontainbutaverysmallquantityofbrimstone，otherwisewecouldscarcelyhavelongmaintainedourelevatedposition。
Therockfromwhichthesespringsriseisformedofareddishmass，andthebedoftheriverintowhichthewaterflowsisalsocompletelycoveredwithlittlestonesofthesamecolour。
Onourwaybackwenoticed，nearacottage，anotherremarkablephenomenon。Itwasabasin，inwhosedepthsthewaterboilsandbubblesviolently；andnearthisbasinaretwounsightlyholes，fromwhichcolumnsofsmokeperiodicallyrisewithagreatnoise。Whilstthisisgoingon，thebasinfillsitselfmoreandmorewithwater，butneversomuchastooverflow，ortoforceajetofwaterintotheair；thenthesteamandthenoiseceaseinbothcavities，andthewaterinthereservoirsinksseveralfeet。
Thisstrangephenomenongenerallylastsaboutaminute，andisrepeatedsoregularly，thatabetcouldalmostbemade，thattherisingandfallingofthewater，andtheincreasedandlessenednoiseofthesteam，shallbeseenandheardsixtyorsixty-fivetimeswithinanhour。
Incommunicationwiththisbasinisanother，situateatadistanceofaboutahundredpacesinasmallhollow，andfilledliketheformerwithboilingwater。Asthewaterintheupperbasingraduallysinks，andceasestoseethe，itbeginstoriseinthelowerone，andisatlengthforcedtwoorthreefeetintotheair；
thenitfallsagain，andthusthephenomenoniscontinuallyrepeatedintheupperandthelowerbasinalternately。
Attheupperspringthereisalsoavapour-bath。Thisisformedbyasmallchambersituatehardbythebasin，builtofstonesandroofedwithturf。Itisfurtherprovidedwithasmallandnarrowentrance，whichcannotbepassedinanuprightposition。Theflooriscomposedofstoneslabs，probablycoveringahotspring，fortheyareverywarm。Thepersonwishingtousethisbathbetakeshimselftothisroom，andcarefullycloseseverycranny；asuffocatingheat，whichinducesviolentperspirationoverthewholeframe，isthusgenerated。Thepeople，however，seldomavailthemselvesofthisbath。
OnmyreturnIhadstilltovisitabasinwithajetofwater，inafinemeadownearthechurch；alowwallofstonehasbeenerectedroundthisspringtopreventthecattlefromscaldingthemselvesiftheyshouldapproachtoonearintheardourofgrazing。Someeightypacesoffistobeseenthewool-batherectedbySnorriSturluson。
Itconsistsofastonebasinthreeorfourfeetindepth，andeighteenortwentyindiameter。Theapproachisbyafewstepsleadingtoalowstonebench，whichrunsroundthebasin。Thewaterisobtainedfromtheneighbouringspring，butisofsohighatemperaturethatitisimpossibletobathewithoutpreviouslycoolingit。Thebathstandsintheopenair，andnotracesareleftofthebuildingwhichoncecoveredit。Itisnowusedforclothesandsheep\'swool。
Ihadnowseenalltheinterestingspringsonthissideofthevalley。Somecolumnsofvapour，whichmaybeobservedfromtheoppositeendofthevalley，proceedfromthermalsprings，thatoffernoremarkablefeaturesavetheirheat。
Onourreturnthepriesttookmetothechurchyard，whichlayatsomedistancefromhisdwelling，andshowedmetheprincipalgraves。
ThoughIthoughtthesightveryimpressive，itwasnotcalculatedtoinvigorateme，whenIconsideredthatImustpasstheapproachingnightaloneinthechurch，amidsttheseresting-placesofthedeparted。
Themoundaboveeachgraveisveryhigh，andthegreaterpartofthemaresurmountedbyakindofwoodencoffin，whichatfirstsightconveystheimpressionthatthedeadpersonisaboveground。I
couldnotshakeoffafeelingofdiscomfort；andsuchisthepowerofprejudice，that——Iacknowledgemyweakness——Iwaseveninducedtobegthatthepriestwouldremoveoneofthecovers。ThoughIknewfullwellthatthedeadmanwasslumberingdeepintheearth，andnotinthiscoffin，Ifeltashudderpassovermeasthelidwasremoved，andIsaw——asthepriesthadassuredmeIshoulddo——merelyatombstonewiththeusualinscription，whichthiscoffin-likecoveringisintendedtoprotectagainsttherudestormsofthewinter。
ClosebesidetheentrancetothechurchisthemoundbeneathwhichrestthebonesofSnorriSturluson，thecelebratedpoet；{39}overthisgravestandsasmallrunicstoneofthelengthofthemounditself。Thisstoneissaidtohaveoncebeencompletelycoveredwithruniccharacters；butalltraceofthesehasbeensweptawaybythestormsoffivehundredwinters，againstwhichthetombhadnoprotectingcoffin。Thestone，too，issplitthroughoutitsentirelengthintotwopieces。Themoundabovethegraveisoftenrenewed，sothatthebeholdercouldoftenfancyhesawanew-madegrave。I
pickedallthebuttercupsIcouldfindgrowingonthegrave，andpreservedthemcarefullyinabook。PerhapsImaybeabletogivepleasuretoseveralofmycountrywomenbyofferingthemafloweretfromthegraveofthegreatestofIcelandicpoets。
June19th。
Inordertopursuemyjourneywithoutinterruption，Ihiredfreshhorses，andallowedmyown，whichwereratherfatigued，toaccompanyusunloaded。MyobjectinthisfurtherexcursionwastovisittheveryremarkablecavernofSurthellir，distantagoodthirty-threemilesfromthisplace。Theclergymanwasagainkindenoughtomakethenecessaryarrangementsforme，andeventoactasmyMentoronthejourney。
Thoughwewereonlythreestrong，wedepartedwitharetinueofsevenhorses，andfornearlytenmilesrodebackthesamewaybywhichIhadcomefromReikholtontheprecedingmorning；thenweturnedofftotheleft，andcrossinghillsandacclivities，reachedothervalleys，whichwerepartlytraversedbybeautifulstreamsoflava，andpartlyinterspersedwithforests——FORESTS，asIhavealreadysaid，accordingtoIcelandicnotions。TheseparatestemswerecertainlyslightlyhigherthanthoseinthevalleyofThingvalla。
AtKalmannstungaweleftthesparehorses，andtookwithusamantoserveasguideinthecavern，fromwhichwewerenowstillsomesevenmilesdistant。ThegreatvalleyinwhichthiscavernliesisreckonedamongthemostremarkableinIceland。Itisamostperfectpictureofvolcanicdevastation。Themostbeautifulmassesoflava，inthemostvariedandpicturesqueforms，occupythewholeimmeasurablevalley。Lavaistobeseenthereinaroughglassystate，formingexquisiteflamesandarabesques；andinimmenseslabs，lyingsometimesscattered，sometimespiledinstrataoneabovetheother，asthoughtheyhadbeencasttherebyaflood。
Amongthese，again，liemightyisolatedstreams，whichmusthavebeenfrozeninthemidstoftheircourse。Fromthedifferentcoloursofthelava，andtheirtransitionsfromlightgreytoblack，wecanjudgeoftheeruptionswhichhavetakenplaceatdifferentperiods。Themountainssurroundingthisvalleyaremostlyofasombrehue；someareevenblack，formingastrikingcontrasttotheneighbouringjokuls，which，intheirlargeexpanse，presenttheappearancealmostofaseaofice。Ifoundoneofthesejokulsofaremarkablesize；itsshiningexpanseextendedfardownintothevalley，anditsuppersurfacewasalmostimmeasurable。
Theothermountainswereallsmooth，asthoughpolishedbyart；intheforegroundIonlynoticedonewhichwascoveredwithwonderfulformsofdriedlava。Adeathlikesilenceweighedonthewholecountryround，onhillandonvalleyalike。Everythingseemeddead，allroundwasbarrenanddesert，sothattheeffectwastrulyIcelandic。ThegreaterportionofIcelandmightbewithjusticedesignatedthe\"NorthernDesert。\"
ThecavernofSurthellirliesonaslightlyelevatedextendedplain，whereitwouldcertainlynotbesoughtfor，asweareaccustomedtoseenaturalphenomenaofthisdescriptiononlyinthebowelsofrocks。Itis，therefore，withnolittlesurprisethatthetravellerseessuddenlyopeningbeforehimalargeroundbasinaboutfifteenfathomsindiameter，andfourindepth。ItwaswithafeelingofawethatIlookeddownwardsonthecountlessblocksofrockpiledoneupontheother，extendingononesidetotheedgeofthehollow，acrosswhichtheroadledtothedarkravinesfartheron。
Wewerecomperedtoscrambleforwardonourhandsandknees，untilwereachedalongbroadpassage，whichledusatfirstimperceptiblydownwards，andthenranunderneaththeplain，whichformedarockycavernaboveourheads。Iestimatedthedifferentheightsofthisroofatnotlessthanfromeighteentosixtyfeet；butitseldomreachedagreaterelevationthanthelatter。Bothroofandwallsareinsomeplacesverypointedandrough:acircumstancetobeascribedtothestalactiteswhichadheretothem，without，however，formingfiguresorlongsharppoints。
Fromthisprincipalpathseveralsmalleronesleadfarintotheinteriorofthisstonyregion；buttheydonotcommunicatewitheachother，andoneiscompelledtoreturnfromeachside-pathintothemainroad。Someoftheseby-pathsareshort，narrow，andlow；
others，onthecontrary，arelong，broad，andlofty。
Inoneofthemostretiredoftheseby-pathsIwasshewnagreatnumberofbones，which，Iwastold，werethoseofslaughteredsheepandotheranimals。Icouldgather，fromtheaccountgivenbythepriestofthelegendconcerningthem，that，indaysofyore，thiscavewastheresortofamightybandofrobbers。Thismusthavebeenalong，longtimeago，asthisisrelatedasalegendorafable。
Formypart，IcouldnottellwhatrobbershadtodoinIceland。
Pirateshadoftencometotheisland；butforthesegentrythiscavernwastoofarfromthesea。Icannotevenimaginebeastsofpreytohavebeenthere；forthewholecountryroundaboutisdesertanduninhabited，sothattheycouldhavefoundnothingtopreyupon。
Infact，Iturnedoverinmymindeveryprobability，andcanonlysaythatitappearedtomeamostremarkablecircumstancetofindinthisdesertplace，sofarfromanylivingthing，anumberofbones，which，moreover，lookedasfreshasifthepooranimalstowhomtheyoncebelongedhadbeeneatenbutashorttimeago。UnfortunatelyI
