Tobecheerfulinthemidstofallthisrequiresaveryquietandcontentedmind。ThattheDanishsailorsarecontented，IhadmanyopportunitiesofobservingduringthevoyageofwhichIamspeaking，andonseveralotheroccasions。
Butafterallthislongdescription，itishightimethatIshouldreturntothejourneyitself。
ThefavourablegalewhichhadthuswaftedustothecoastofIcelandwithinsevendays，nowunfortunatelychangeditsdirection，anddroveusback。Wedriftedaboutinthestorm-tostocean，andmanyaSpanishwave{22}brokecompletelyoverourship。TwiceweattemptedtoapproachtheWestmannIslands{23}(agroupbelongingtoIceland)towatchanopportunityofcastinganchor，andsettingashoreourfellow-travellerHerrBruge；butitwasinvain，weweredrivenbackeachtime。Atlength，atthecloseoftheeleventhday，wereachedHavenfiord，averygoodharbour，distantninemilesfromReikjavik，thecapitalofIceland。
Inspiteoftheveryinopportunechangeinthedirectionofthewind，wehadhadanunprecedentedlyquickpassage。ThedistancefromCopenhagentoIceland，inastraightline，isreckonedat1200
geographicalmiles；forasailingvessel，whichmusttacknowandthen，andmustgoasmuchwiththewindaspossible，1500to1600
miles。Hadthestrongwind，whichwasatfirstsofavourable，insteadofchangingontheseventhday，heldonforthirtyorfortyhourslonger，weshouldhavelandedinIcelandontheeighthorninthday——eventhesteamercouldnothaveaccomplishedthepassagesoquickly。
TheshoresofIcelandappearedtomequitedifferentfromwhatIhadsupposedthemtobefromthedescriptionsIhadread。Ihadfanciedthemnaked，withouttreeorshrub，drearyanddesert；butnowIsawgreenhills，shrubs，andevenwhatappearedtobegroupsofstuntedtrees。Aswecamenearer，however，Iwasenabledtodistinguishobjectsmoreclearly，andthegreenhillsbecamehumandwellingswithsmalldoorsandwindows，whilethesupposedgroupsoftreesprovedinrealitytobeheapsoflava，sometenortwelvefeethigh，thicklycoveredwithmossandgrass。Everythingwasnewandstrikingtome；Iwaitedingreatimpatiencetillwecouldland。
Atlengththeanchordescended；butitwasnottillnextmorningthatthehourofdisembarkationanddeliverancecame。
Butonemorenight，andthen，everydifficultyovercome，IshouldtreadtheshoresofIceland，thelonged-for，andbaskasitwereinthewondersofthisisland，sopoorinthecreationsofart，sorichinthephenomenaofNature。
BeforeIlandinIceland，Imusttroublethereaderwithafewpreliminaryobservationsregardingthisisland。TheyaredrawnfromMackenzie\'sDescriptionofIceland，abookthesterlingvalueofwhichisappreciatedeverywhere。{24}
ThediscoveryofIceland，abouttheyearofourLord860，isattributedtothespiritofenterpriseofsomeSwedishandNorwegianpirates，whoweredriftedthitheronavoyagetotheFeroeIsles。
Itwasnottilltheyear874thattheislandwaspeopledbyanumberofvoluntaryemigrants，who，feelingunhappyunderthedominionofHaroldHarfraga(finehair)，arrivedattheislandunderthedirectionofIngold。{25}Asthenewcomersaresaidtohavefoundnotracesofdwellings，theyarepresumedtobethefirstwhotookpossessionoftheisland。
AtthistimeIcelandwasstillsocompletelycoveredwithunderwood，thatatsomepointsitwasnecessarytocutapassage。Bringingwiththemtheirlanguage，religion，customs，andhistoricalmonuments，theNorwegiansintroducedakindoffeudalsystem，which，abouttheyear928，gaveplacetoasomewhataristocraticgovernment，retaining，however，thenameofarepublic。Theislandwasdividedintofourprovinces，overeachofwhichwasplacedanhereditarygovernororjudge。
TheGeneralAssemblyofIceland(calledAllthing)washeldannuallyontheshoresoftheLakeThingvalla。Thepeoplepossessedanexcellentcodeoflaws，inwhichprovisionhadbeenmadeforeverycasewhichcouldoccur。
Thisstateofthingslastedformorethan300years，aperiodwhichmaybecalledthegoldenageofIceland。Education，literature，andevenrefinedpoetryflourishedamongtheinhabitants，whotookpartincommerceandinthesea-voyageswhichtheNorwegiansundertookforpurposesofdiscovery。
The\"Sagas，\"orhistoriesofthiscountry，containmanytalesofpersonalbravery。Itsbardsandhistoriansvisitedotherclimes，becamethefavouritesofmonarchs，andreturnedtotheirislandcoveredwithhonourandloadedwithpresents。TheEdda，bySamund，isoneofthemostvaluedpoemsoftheancientdaysofIceland。ThesecondportionoftheEdda，calledSkalda，datesfromalaterperiod，andisascribedbymanytothecelebratedSnorriSturluson。
Isleif，firstBishopofSkalholt，wastheearliestIcelandichistorian；afterhimcamethenotedSnorriSturluson，bornin1178，whobecametherichestandmightiestmaninIceland。
SnorriSturlusonwasfrequentlyfollowedtotheGeneralAssemblyofIcelandbyasplendidretinueof800armedmen。Hewasagreathistorianandpoet，andpossessedanaccurateknowledgeoftheGreekandLatintongues，besidesbeingapowerfulorator。HewasalsotheauthoroftheHeims-kringla。
ThefirstschoolwasfoundedatSkalholt，aboutthemiddleoftheeleventhcentury，underIsleif，firstBishopofIceland；fourotherschoolsandseveralconventssoonfollowed。Poetryandmusicseemtohaveformedastaplebranchofeducation。
TheclimateofIcelandappearstohavebeenlessinclementthanisnowthecase；cornissaidtohavegrown，andtreesandshrubswerelargerandthickerthanwefindthematpresent。ThepopulationofIcelandwasalsomuchmorenumerousthanitisnow，althoughtherewereneithertownsnorvillages。Thepeoplelivedscatteredthroughouttheisland；andtheGeneralAssemblywasheldatThingvalla，intheopenair。
FishingconstitutedthechiefemploymentoftheIcelanders。Theirclothingwaswovenfromthewooloftheirsheep。Commercewithneighbouringcountriesopenedtothemanotherfieldofoccupation。
ThedoctrinesofChristianitywerefirstintroducedintoIceland，intheyear981，byFriederich，aSaxonbishop。Manychurcheswerebuilt，andtithesestablishedforthemaintenanceoftheclergy。
Isleif，firstBishopofSkalholt，wasordainedintheyear1057。
AftertheintroductionofChristianity，alltheIcelandersenjoyedanunostentatiousbutundisturbedpracticeoftheirreligion。
GreenlandandthemostnorthernpartofAmericaaresaidtohavebeendiscoveredbyIcelanders。
InthemiddleofthethirteenthcenturyIcelandcameintothepoweroftheNorwegiankings。Intheyear1380NorwaywasunitedtothecrownofDenmark；andIcelandincorporated，withoutresistance，intheDanishmonarchy。SincethecessionoftheislandtoNorway，andthentoDenmark，peaceandsecuritytooktheplaceoftheinternalcommotionswithwhich，beforethistime，Icelandhadbeenfrequentlydisturbed；butthisstateofquietbroughtforthindolenceandapathy。Thevoyagesofdiscoverywereinterferedwithbythenewgovernment，andthecommercegraduallypassedintothehandsofothernations。Theclimateappearsalsotohavechanged；andthelessenedindustryandwantofperseveranceintheinhabitantshavebroughtagriculturecompletelyintodecline。
Intheyear1402theplaguebrokeoutupontheisland，andcarriedofftwo-thirdsofthepopulation。
Thefirstprinting-presswasestablishedatHoolum，abouttheyear1530，underthesuperintendenceoftheBishop，JohnAreson。
ThereformationintheIcelandicChurchwasnotbroughtaboutwithoutdisturbance。Itwaslegallyestablishedintheyear1551。
DuringthefifteenthcenturytheIcelanderssufferedmorefromthepiraticalincursionsofforeigners。Aslateastheyear1616theFrenchandEnglishnationstookpartintheseenormities。Themostmelancholyoccurrenceofthiskindtookplacein1627，inwhichyearagreatnumberofAlgerinepiratesmadeadescentupontheIcelandiccoast，murderedaboutfiftyoftheinhabitants，andcarriedoffnearly400othersintocaptivity。{26}
Theeighteenthcenturycommencedwithadreadfulmortalityfromthesmallpox；ofwhichdiseasemorethan16，000oftheinhabitantsdied。
In1757afaminesweptawayabout10，000souls。
Theyear1783wasdistinguishedbymostdreadfulvolcanicoutbreaksintheinterioroftheisland。Tremendousstreamsoflavacarriedallbeforethem；greatriverswerecheckedintheircourse，andformedlakes。FormorethanayearathickcloudofsmokeandvolcanicashescoveredthewholeofIceland，andnearlydarkenedthesunlight。Hornedcattle，sheep，andhorsesweredestroyed；faminecame，withitsaccompanyingillnesses；andoncemoreappearedthemalignantsmall-pox。Inafewyearsmorethan11，000personshaddied；morethanone-fourthofthewholepresentpopulationoftheisland。
IcelandliesintheAtlanticocean；itsgreatestbreadthis240
geographicalmiles，anditsextremelengthfromnorthtosouth140
miles。Thenumberofinhabitantsisestimatedat48，000，andthesuperficialextentoftheislandat29，800squaremiles。
CHAPTERIII
Onthemorningofthe16thofMayIlandedintheharbourofHavenfiord，andforthefirsttimetrodtheshoresofIceland。
AlthoughIwasquitebewilderedbysea-sickness，andstillmorebythecontinualrockingoftheship，sothateveryobjectroundmeseemedtodance，andIcouldscarcelymakeafirmstep，stillI
couldnotrestinthehouseofHerrKnudson，whichhehadobliginglyplacedatmydisposal。Imustgooutatonce，toseeandinvestigateeverything。IfoundthatHavenfiordconsistedmerelyofthreewoodenhouses，afewmagazinesbuiltofthesamematerial，andsomepeasants\'cottages。
Thewoodenhousesareinhabitedbymerchantsorbytheirfactors，andconsistonlyofaground-floor，withafrontoffourorsixwindows。Twoorthreestepsleaduptotheentrance，whichisinthecentreofthebuilding，andopensuponahallfromwhichdoorsleadintotheroomstotherightandleft。Atthebackofthehouseissituatedthekitchen，whichopensintoseveralbackroomsandintotheyard。Ahouseofthisdescriptionconsistsonlyoffiveorsixroomsontheground-floorandafewsmallatticbedrooms。
TheinternalarrangementsarequiteEuropean。Thefurniture——whichisoftenofmahogany，——themirrors，thecast-ironstoves，everything，inshort，comefromCopenhagen。Beautifulcarpetsliespreadbeforethesofas；neatcurtainsshadethewindows；Englishprintsornamentthewhitewashedwalls；porcelain，plate，cut-glass，&c。，aredisplayedonchestsandontables；andflower-potswithroses，mignonnette，andpinksspreadadeliciousfragrancearound。Ievenfoundagrandpianofortehere。Ifanypersoncouldsuddenly，andwithouthavingmadethejourney，betransportedintooneofthesehouses，hewouldcertainlyfancyhimselfinsomecontinentaltown，ratherthaninthedistantandbarrenislandofIceland。AndasinHavenfiord，soIfoundthehousesofthemoreopulentclassesinReikjavik，andinalltheplacesIvisited。
FromthesehandsomehousesIbetookmyselftothecottagesofthepeasants，whichhaveamoreindigenous，Icelandicappearance。Smallandlow，builtoflava，withtheintersticesfilledwithearth，andthewholecoveredwithlargepiecesofturf，theywouldpresentrathertheappearanceofnaturalmoundsofearththanofhumandwellings，wereitnotthattheprojectingwoodenchimneys，thelow-
browedentrances，andthealmostimperceptiblewindows，causethespectatortoconcludethattheyareinhabited。Adarknarrowpassage，aboutfourfeethigh，leadsononesideintothecommonroom，andontheothertoafewcompartments，someofwhichareusedasstorehousesforprovisions，andtherestaswinterstablesforthecowsandsheep。Attheendofthispassage，whichispurposelybuiltsolow，asanadditionaldefenceagainstthecold，thefireplaceisgenerallysituated。Theroomsofthepoorerclasshaveneitherwoodenwallsnorfloors，andarejustlargeenoughtoadmitoftheinhabitantssleeping，andperhapsturningroundinthem。Thewholeinterioraccommodationiscomprisedinbedsteadswithverylittlecovering，asmalltable，andafewdrawers。Bedsandchestsofdrawersanswerthepurposeofbenchesandchairs。Abovethebedsarefixedrods，fromwhichdependclothes，shoes，stockings，&c。A
smallboard，onwhicharearrangedafewbooks，isgenerallytobeobserved。Stovesareconsideredunnecessary；forasthespaceisveryconfined，andthehousedenselypopulated，theatmosphereisnaturallywarm。
Rodsarealsoplacedroundthefireplace，andonthesethewetclothesandfishesarehungupincompanytodry。Thesmokecompletelyfillstheroom，andslowlyfindsitswaythroughafewbreathing-holesintotheopenair。
Fire-woodthereisnonethroughoutthewholeisland。TherichinhabitantshaveitbroughtfromNorwayorDenmark；thepoorburnturf，towhichtheyfrequentlyaddbonesandotheroffaloffish，whichnaturallyengenderamostdisagreeablesmoke。
Onenteringoneofthesecottages，thevisitorisatalosstodeterminewhichofthetwoisthemoreobnoxious——thesuffocatingsmokeinthepassageorthepoisonedairofthedwelling-room，renderedalmostinsufferablebythecrowdingtogetherofsomanypersons。Icouldalmostventuretoassert，thatthedreadfuleruptioncalledLepra，whichisuniversalthroughoutIceland，owesitsexistencerathertothetotalwantofcleanlinessthantotheclimateofthecountryortothefood。
Throughoutmysubsequentjourneysintotheinterior，Ifoundthecottagesofthepeasantseverywherealikesqualidandfilthy。OfcourseIspeakofthemajority，andnotoftheexceptions；forhereIfoundafewrichpeasants，whosedwellingslookedcleanerandmorehabitable，inproportiontothesuperiorwealthorsenseofdecencyoftheowners。Myideais，thatthetraveller\'sestimateofacountryshouldbeformedaccordingtothehabitsandcustomsofthegeneralityofitsinhabitants，andnotaccordingtothedoingsofafewindividuals，asisoftenthecase。Alas，howseldomdidImeetwiththesecreditableexceptions!
TheneighbourhoodofHavenfiordisformedbyamostbeautifulandpicturesquefieldoflava，atfirstrisinginhills，thensinkingintohollows，andatlengthterminatinginagreatplainwhichextendstothebaseoftheneighbouringmountains。Massesofthemostvariedforms，oftenblackandnaked，risetotheheightoftenorfifteenfeet，formingwalls，ruinedpillars，smallgrottoes，andhollowspaces。Overtheselatterlargeslabsoftenextend，andformbridges。Everythingaroundconsistsofsuddenlycooledheaped-upmassesoflava，insomeinstancescoveredtotheirsummitswithgrassandmoss；thiscircumstancegivesthem，asalreadystated，theappearanceofgroupsofstuntedtrees。Horses，sheep，andcowswereclamberingabout，diligentlyseekingouteverygreenplace。Ialsoclamberedaboutdiligently；Icouldnottireofgazingandwonderingatthisterriblybeautifulpictureofdestruction。
AfterafewhoursIhadsocompletelyforgottenthehardshipsofmypassage，andfeltmyselfsomuchstrengthened，thatIbeganmyjourneytoReikjavikatfiveo\'clockontheeveningofthesameday。
HerrKnudsonseemedmuchconcernedforme；hewarnedmethattheroadswerebad，andparticularlyemphasisedthedangerousabyssesI
shouldbecompelledtopass。IcomfortedhimwiththeassurancethatIwasagoodhorsewoman，andcouldhardlyhavetoencounterworseroadsthanthosewithwhichIhadhadthehonourtobecomeacquaintedinSyria。Ithereforetookleaveofthekindgentleman，whointendedtostayaweekortendaysinHavenfiord，andmountingasmallhorse，setoutincompanyofafemaleguide。
InmyguideImadetheacquaintanceofaremarkableantiquityofIceland，whoiswellworthythatIshoulddevoteafewwordstoherdescription。Sheisaboveseventyyearsofage，butlooksscarcelyfifty；herheadissurroundedbytressesofrichfairhair。Sheisdressedlikeaman；undertakes，inthecapacityofmessenger，thelongestandmostfatiguingjourneys；rowsaboatasskilfullyasthemostpractisedfisherman；andfulfilsallhermissionsquickerandmoreexactlythanaman，forshedoesnotkeepupsogoodanunderstandingwiththebrandy-bottle。Shemarchedonsosturdilybeforeme，thatIwasobligedtoincitemylittlehorsetogreaterspeedwithmyriding-whip。
Atfirsttheroadlaybetweenmassesoflava，whereitcertainlywasnoteasytoride；thenoverflatsandsmallacclivities，fromwhencewecoulddescrytheimmenseplaininwhicharesituatedHavenfiord，Bassastadt，Reikjavik，andotherplaces。Bassastadt，atownbuiltonapromontoryjuttingoutintothesea，containsoneoftheprincipalschools，achurchbuiltofmasonry，andafewcottages。
ThetownofReikjavikcannotbeseen，asitishiddenbehindahill。
Theotherplacesconsistchieflyofafewcottages，andonlymeettheeyeofthetravellerwhenheapproachesthemnearly。Severalchainsofmountains，toweringoneabovetheother，andsundry\"Jokuls，\"orglaciers，whichlaystillsparklingintheirwintrygarb，surroundthisinterminableplain，whichisonlyopenatoneend，towardsthesea。Someoftheplainsandhillsshonewithtendergreen，andIfanciedIbeheldbeautifulmeadows。Onanearerinspection，however，theyprovedtobeswampyplaces，andhundredsuponhundredsoflittleacclivities，sometimesresemblingmole-
hills，atotherssmallgraves，andcoveredwithgrassandmoss。
Icouldseeoveranareaofatleastthirtyorfortymiles，andyetcouldnotdescryatreeorashrub，abitofmeadow-landorafriendlyvillage。Everythingseemeddead。Afewcottageslayscatteredhereandthere；atlongintervalsabirdwouldhoverintheair，andstillmoreseldomIheardthekindlygreetingofapassinginhabitant。Heapsoflava，swamps，andturf-bogssurroundedmeonallsides；inallthevastexpansenotaspotwastobeseenthroughwhichaploughcouldbedriven。
Afterridingmorethanfourmiles，Ireachedahill，fromwhichI
couldseeReikjavik，thechiefharbour，and，infact，theonlytownontheisland。ButIwasdeceivedinmyexpectations；theplacebeforemewasamerevillage。
ThedistancefromHavenfiordtoReikjavikisscarcelyninemiles；
butasIwasunwillingtotiremygoodoldguide，Itookthreehourstoaccomplishit。Theroadwas，generallyspeaking，verygood，exceptinginsomeplaces，whereitlayoverheapsoflava。Ofthemuch-dreadeddizzyabyssesIsawnothing；thestartlingtermmusthavebeenusedtodesignatesomeunimportantdeclivities，alongthebrowofwhichIrode，insightofthesea；orperhapsthe\"abysses\"
wereonthelava-fields，whereIsometimesnoticedsmallchasmsoffifteenorsixteenfeetindepthatthemost。
Shortlyaftereighto\'clockintheeveningIwasfortunateenoughtoreachReikjaviksafeandwell。ThroughthekindforethoughtofHerrKnudson，aneatlittleroomhadbeenpreparedformeinoneofhishousesoccupiedbythefamilyoftheworthybakerBernhoft，andtrulyIcouldnothavebeenbetterreceivedanywhere。
DuringmyprotractedstaythewholefamilyoftheBernhoftsshewedmemorekindnessandcordialitythanithasbeenmylotfrequentlytofind。ManyanhourhasHerrBernhoftsacrificedtome，inordertoaccompanymeinmylittleexcursions。Heassistedmemostdiligentlyinmysearchforflowers，insects，andshells，andwasmuchrejoicedwhenhecouldfindmeanewspecimen。Hiskindwifeanddearchildrenrivalledhiminwillingnesstooblige。Icanonlysay，mayHeavenrequitethemathousand-foldfortheirkindnessandfriendship!
IhadevenanopportunityofhearingmynativelanguagespokenbyHerrBernhoft，whowasaHolsteinerbybirth，andhadnotquiteforgottenourdearGermantongue，thoughhehadlivedformanyyearspartlyinDenmark，partlyinIceland。
SobeholdmenowintheonlytowninIceland，{27}theseatoftheso-calledcultivatedclasses，whosecustomsandmodeoflifeIwillnowlaybeforemyhonouredreaders。
Nothingwasmoredisagreeabletomethanacertainairofdignityassumedbytheladieshere；anairwhich，exceptwhenitisnatural，orhasbecomesofromlonghabit，isapttodegenerateintostiffnessandincivility。Onmeetinganacquaintance，theladiesofReikjavikwouldbendtheirheadswithsostatelyandyetsocarelessanairasweshouldscarcelyassumetowardsthehumbleststranger。
Attheconclusionofavisit，theladyofthehouseonlyaccompaniestheguestasfarasthechamber-door。Ifthehusbandbepresent，thiscivilityiscarriedalittlefurther；butwhenthisdoesnothappentobethecase，astrangerwhodoesnotknowexactlythroughwhichdoorhecanmakehisexit，maychancetofeelnotalittleembarrassed。Exceptinginthehouseofthe\"Stiftsamtmann\"(theprincipalofficialontheisland)，onedoesnotfindafootmanwhocanshewtheway。InHamburghIhadalreadynoticedthebeginningsofthisdignifiedcoldness；itincreasedasIjourneyedfurthernorth，andatlengthreacheditsclimaxinIceland。
Goodlettersofrecommendationoftenfailtorenderthenortherngrandeespolitetowardsstrangers。Asaninstanceofthisfact，I
relatethefollowingtrait:
Amongotherkindlettersofrecommendation，IhadreceivedoneaddressedtoHerrvonH-，the\"Stiftsamtmann\"ofIceland。OnmyarrivalatCopenhagen，IheardthatHerrvonH-happenedtobethere。Ithereforebetookmyselftohisresidence，andwasshewnintoaroomwhereIfoundtwoyoungladiesandthreechildren。I
deliveredmyletter，andremainedquietlystandingforsometime。
Findingatlengththatnooneinvitedmetobeseated，Isatdownunaskedonthenearestchair，neversupposingforaninstantthattheladyofthehousecouldbepresent，andneglectthecommonestformsofpolitenesswhichshouldbeobservedtowardseverystranger。
AfterIhadwaitedforsometime，HerrvonH-graciouslymadehisappearance，andexpressedhisregretthatheshouldhaveverylittletimetospareforme，asheintendedsettingsailforIcelandwithhisfamilyinashorttime，andintheinterimhadanumberofweightyaffairstosettleatCopenhagen；inconclusion，hegavemethefriendlyadvicetoabandonmyintentionofvisitingIceland，asthefatiguesoftravellinginthatcountrywereverygreat；finding，however，thatIperseveredinmyintention，hepromised，incaseI
setsailforReikjavikearlierthanhimself，togivemealetterofrecommendation。Allthiswasconcludedingreathaste，andwestoodduringtheinterview。Itookmyleave，andatfirstdeterminednottocallagainfortheletter。Onreflection，however，Ichangedmymind，ascribedmyunfriendlyreceptiontoimportantandperhapsdisagreeablebusiness，andcalledagaintwodaysafterwards。Thentheletterwashandedtomebyaservant；thehighpeople，whomI
couldhearconversingintheadjoiningapartment，probablyconsideredittoomuchtroubletodeliverittomepersonally。
OnpayingmyrespectstothisamiablefamilyinReikjavik，IwasnotalittlesurprisedtorecogniseinFrauvonH-oneofthoseladieswhoinCopenhagenhadnothadthecivilitytoaskmetobeseated。
Fiveorsixdaysafterwards，HerrvonH-returnedmycall，andinvitedmetoanexcursiontoVatne。Iacceptedtheinvitationwithmuchpleasure，andmentallyaskedpardonofhimforhavingformedtoohastyanopinion。FrauvonH-，however，didnotfindherwaytomeuntilthefourthweekofmystayinReikjavik；shedidnoteveninvitemetovisitheragain，soofcourseIdidnotgo，andouracquaintanceterminatedthere。Asindutybound，theremainingdignitariesofthislittletowntooktheirtonefromtheirchief。
Myvisitswereunreturned，andIreceivednoinvitations，thoughI
heardmuchduringmystayofpartiesofpleasure，dinners，andeveningparties。HadInotfortunatelybeenabletoemploymyself，Ishouldhavebeenverybadlyoff。NotoneoftheladieshadkindnessanddelicacyenoughtoconsiderthatIwasalonehere，andthatthesocietyofeducatedpeoplemightbenecessaryformycomfort。Iwaslessannoyedatthewantofpolitenessinthegentlemen；forIamnolongeryoung，andthataccountsforeverything。Whenthewomenwerewantinginkindliness，Ihadnorighttoexpectconsiderationfromthegentlemen。
Itriedtodiscoverthereasonofthistreatment，andsoonfoundthatitlayinanationalcharacteristicofthesepeople——theirselfishness。
ItappearsIhadscarcelyarrivedatReikjavikbeforediligentinquiriesweresetonfootastowhetherIwasRICH，andshouldseemuchcompanyatmyhouse，and，infact，whethermuchcouldbegotoutofme。
Tobewellreceivedhereitisnecessaryeithertoberich，orelsetotravelasanaturalist。PersonsofthelatterclassaregenerallysentbytheEuropeancourtstoinvestigatetheremarkableproductionsofthecountry。Theymakelargecollectionsofminerals，birds，&c。；theybringwiththemnumerouspresents，sometimesofconsiderablevalue，whichtheydistributeamongthedignitaries；theyare，moreover，theprojectorsofmanyanentertainment，andevenofmanyalittleball，&c。；theybuyupeverythingtheycanprocurefortheircabinets，andtheyalwaystravelincompany；theyhavemuchbaggagewiththem，andconsequentlyrequiremanyhorses，whichcannotbehiredinIceland，butmustbebought。Onsuchoccasionseveryonehereisadealer:
offersofhorsesandcabinetspourinonallsides。
ThemostwelcomearrivalofallisthatoftheFrenchfrigate，whichvisitsIcelandeveryyear；forsometimestherearedejeunersalafourchetteonboard，sometimeslittleeveningpartiesandballs。
Thereisatleastsomethingtobegotbesidestherichpresents；the\"Stiftsamtmann\"evenreceives600florinsperannumfromtheFrenchgovernmenttodefraytheexpenseofafewreturnballswhichhegivestothenavalofficers。
Withmethiswasnotthecase:Igavenoparties——Ibroughtnopresents——theyhadnothingtoexpectfromme；andthereforetheyleftmetomyself。{28}
ForthisreasonIaffirmthatheonlycanjudgeofthecharacterofapeoplewhocomesamongthemwithoutclaimtotheirattention，andfromwhomtheyhavenothingtoexpect。Tosuchapersononlydotheyappearintheirtruecolours，becausetheydonotfinditworthwhiletodissembleandwearamaskinhispresence。Inthesecasesthetravelleriscertainlyapttomakepainfuldiscoveries；butwhen，ontheotherhand，hemeetswithgoodpeople，hemaybecertainoftheirsincerity；andsoImustbegmyhonouredreaderstobearwithme，whenImentionthenamesofallthosewhoheartilywelcomedtheundistinguishedforeigner；itistheonlywayinwhichIcanexpressmygratitudetowardsthem。
AsIsaidbefore，Ihadintercoursewithveryfewpeople，sothatampletimeremainedforsolitarywalks，duringwhichIminutelynoticedeverythingaroundme。
ThelittletownofReikjavikconsistsofasinglebroadstreet，withhousesandcottagesscatteredaround。Thenumberofinhabitantsdoesnotamountto500。
Thehousesofthewealthierinhabitantsareofwood-work，andcontainmerelyaground-floor，withtheexceptionofasinglebuildingofonestory，towhichthehighschool，nowheldatBassastadt，willbetransferrednextyear。Thehouseofthe\"Stiftsamtmann\"isbuiltofstone。Itwasoriginallyintendedforaprison；butascriminalsarerarelytobemetwithinIceland，thebuildingwasmanyyearsagotransformedintotheresidenceoftheroyalofficer。Asecondstonebuilding，discerniblefromReikjavik，issituatedatLangarnes，halfamilefromthetown。Itliesnearthesea，inthemidstofmeadows，andistheresidenceofthebishop。
Thechurchiscapableofholdingonlyatthemostfrom100to150
persons；itisbuiltofstone，withawoodenroof。Inthechambersofthisroofthelibrary，consistingofseveralthousandvolumes，isdeposited。Thechurchcontainsatreasurewhichmanyalargerandcostlieredificemightenvy，——abaptismalfontbyThorwaldsen，whoseparentswereofIcelandicextraction。ThegreatsculptorhimselfwasborninDenmark，andprobablywished，bythispresent，todohonourtothebirth-placeofhisancestors。
TosomeofthehousesinReikjavikpiecesofgardenareattached。
Thesegardensaresmallplotsofgroundwhere，withgreattroubleandexpense，salad，spinach，parsley，potatoes，andafewvarietiesofedibleroots，arecultivated。Thebedsareseparatedfromeachotherbystripsofturfafootbroad，seldomboastingevenafewfield-flowers。
TheinhabitantsofIcelandaregenerallyofmiddlestature，andstronglybuilt，withlighthair，frequentlyincliningtored，andblueeyes。Themenareforthemostpartugly；thewomenarebetterfavoured，andamongthegirlsInoticedsomeverysweetfaces。Toattaintheageofseventyoreightyyearsishereconsideredanextraordinarycircumstance。{29}Thepeasantshavemanychildren，andyetfew；manyareborn，butfewsurvivethefirstyear。Themothersdonotnursethem，andrearthemonverybadfood。Thosewhogetoverthefirstyearlookhealthyenough；buttheyhavestrangelyredcheeks，almostasthoughtheyhadaneruption。
Whetherthisappearanceistobeascribedtothesharpair，towhichthedelicateskinisnotyetaccustomed，ortothefood，Iknownot。
Insomeplacesonthecoast，whentheviolentstormspreventthepoorfishermenforwholeweeksfromlaunchingtheirboats，theylivealmostentirelyondriedfishes\'heads。{30}Thefishesthemselveshavebeensalteddownandsold，partlytopaythefishermen\'staxes，andpartlytoliquidatedebtsforthenecessariesofthepastseason，amongwhichbrandyandsnuffunfortunatelyplayfartooprominentapart。
Anotherreasonwhythepopulationdoesnotincreaseistobefoundinthenumerouscatastrophesattendingthefisheriesduringthestormyseasonoftheyear。Thefishermenleavetheshorewithsongsandmirth，forabrightskyandacalmseapromisethemgoodfortune。But，alas，tempestsandsnow-stormstoooftenovertaketheunfortunateboatmen!Theseaislashedintofoam，andmightywavesoverwhelmboatsandfishermentogether，andtheyperishinevitably。
Itisseldomthatthefatherofafamilyembarksinthesameboatwithhissons。Theydividethemselvesamongdifferentparties，inorderthat，ifoneboatfounder，thewholefamilymaynotbedestroyed。
IfoundthecottagesofthepeasantsatReikjaviksmaller，andineveryrespectworseprovided，thanthoseatHavenfiord。Thisseems，however，tobeentirelyowingtotheindolenceofthepeasantsthemselves；forstonesaretobehadinabundance，andeverymanishisownbuilder。Thecowsandsheeplivethroughthewinterinawretchedden，builteitherinthecottageitselforinitsimmediateneighbourhood。Thehorsespassthewholeyearunderthecanopyofheaven，andmustfindtheirownprovender。Occasionallyonlythepeasantwillshovelawaythesnowfromalittlespot，toassistthepooranimalsinsearchingforthegrassormossconcealedbeneath。
Itisthenlefttothehorsestofinishclearingawaythesnowwiththeirfeet。Itmayeasilybeimaginedthatthismodeoftreatmenttendstorenderthemveryhardy；butthewonderis，howthepoorcreaturesmanagetoexistthroughthewinteronsuchsparediet，andtobestrongandfitforworklateinthespringandinsummer。
Thesehorsesaresoentirelyunusedtobeingfedwithoats，thattheywillrefusethemwhenoffered；theyarenotevenfondofhay。
AsIarrivedinIcelandduringtheearlyspring，Ihadanopportunityofseeingthehorsesandsheepintheirwintergarments。
Thehorsesseemedtobecovered，notwithhair，butwithathickwoollycoat；theirmanesandtailsareverylong，andofsurprisingthickness。AttheendofMayorthebeginningofJunethetailandmanearedockedandthinned，theirwoollycoatfallsofitself，andtheythenlooksmoothenough。Thesheephavealsoaverythickcoatduringthewinter。Itisnotthecustomtoshearthem，butatthebeginningofJunethewoolispickedoffpiecebypiecewiththehand。Asheeptreatedinthiswaysometimespresentsaverycomicalappearance，beingperfectlynakedononeside，whileontheotheritisstillcoveredwithwool。
Thehorsesandcowsareconsiderablysmallerthanthoseofourcountry。Nooneneedjourneysofarnorth，however，toseestuntedcattle。Already，inGalicia，thecowsandhorsesofthepeasantsarenotawhitlargerorstrongerthanthoseinIceland。TheIcelandiccowsarefurtherremarkableonlyfortheirpeculiarlysmallhorns；thesheeparealsosmallerthanours。
Everypeasantkeepshorses。Themodeoffeedingthemis，asalreadyshewn，verysimple；thedistancesarelong，theroadsbad，andlargerivers，moorlands，andswampsmustfrequentlybepassed；soeveryonerides，bothmen，women，andchildren。TheuseofcarriagesisastotallyunknownthroughouttheislandasinSyria。
TheimmediatevicinityofReikjavikisprettyenough。Someofthetownspeoplegotomuchtroubleandexpenseinsometimescollectingandsometimesbreakingthestonesaroundtheirdwellings。Withthelittlegroundthusobtainedtheymixturf，ashes，andmanure，untilatlengthasoilisformedonwhichsomethingwillgrow。Butthisissuchagiganticundertaking，thatthelittleculturebestowedonthespotswhollyneglectedbynaturecannotbewonderedat。HerrBernhoftshewedmeasmallmeadowwhichhehadleasedforthirtyyears，atanannualrentofthirtykreutzers。Inorder，however，totransformthelandheboughtintoameadow，whichyieldswinterfodderforonlyonecow，itwasnecessarytoexpendmorethan150
florins，besidesmuchpersonallabourandpains。Therateofwagesforpeasantsisveryhighwhencomparedwiththelimitedwantsofthesepeople:theyreceivethirtyorfortykreutzersperdiem，andduringthehay-harvestasmuchasaflorin。
Foralongdistanceroundthetownthegroundconsistsofstones，turf，andswamps。Thelatteraremostlycoveredwithhundredsuponhundredsofgreatandsmallmoundsoffirmground。Byjumpingfromoneofthesemoundstothenext，theentireswampmaybecrossed，notonlywithoutdanger，butdry-footed。
Inspiteofallthis，oneoftheseswampsputmeinapositionofmuchdifficultyandembarrassmentduringoneofmysolitaryexcursions。Iwassaunteringquietlyalong，whensuddenlyalittlebutterflyflutteredpastme。ItwasthefirstIhadseeninthiscountry，andmyeagernesstocatchitwasproportionatelygreat。I
hastenedafterit；thoughtneitherofswampnorofdanger，andintheheatofthechasedidnotobservethatthemoundsbecameeverymomentfewerandfartherbetween。SoonIfoundmyselfinthemiddleoftheswamp，andcouldneitheradvancenorretreat。NotahumanbeingcouldIdescry；theveryanimalswerefarfromme；andthiscircumstanceconfirmedmeastothedangerousnatureoftheground。
Nothingremainedformebuttofixmyeyesupononepointofthelandscape，andtostepoutboldlytowardsit。Iwasoftenobligedtohazardtwoorthreestepsintotheswampitself，inordertogainthenextacclivity，uponwhichIwouldthenstandtriumphantly，todeterminemyfartherprogress。SolongasIcoulddistinguishtracesofhorses\'hoofs，Ihadnofear；buteventhesesoondisappeared，andIstoodtherealoneinthemorass。Icouldnotremainforeveronmytowerofobservation，andhadnoresourcebuttotaketotheswamponcemore。ImustconfessthatIexperiencedaveryuncomfortablefeelingofapprehensionwhenmyfootsanksuddenlyintothesoftmud；butwhenIfoundthatitdidnotrisehigherthantheankles，mycouragereturned；Isteppedoutboldly，andwasfortunateenoughtoescapewiththefrightandathoroughwetting。
Themostarduouspostsinthecountryarethoseofthemedicalmenandclergymen。Theirsphereofactionisveryenlarged，particularlythatofthemedicalman，whosepracticesometimesextendsoveradistanceofeightytoahundredmiles。Whenweaddtothistheseverityofthewinter，whichlastsforsevenoreightmonths，itseemsmarvellousthatanyonecanbefoundtofillsuchasituation。
