第20章

类别:其他 作者:佚名字数:14567更新时间:18/12/14 11:05:59
Butwhenthemoon,havingpassedthelineofpinnacles,washiddenbehindthestupendouswhiteswellofMontBlanc,themasterpieceoftheeveningwasflungonthecanvas。 Arichgreenishradiancesprangintotheskyfrombehindthemountain,andinthissameairyshredsandribbonsofvaporfloatedabout,andbeingflushedwiththatstrangetint,wentwavingtoandfrolikepalegreenflames。Afterawhile,radiatingbars——vastbroadeningfan-shapedshadows——grewupandstretchedawaytothezenithfrombehindthemountain。 Itwasaspectacletotakeone\'sbreath,forthewonderofit,andthesublimity。 Indeed,thosemightybarsofalternatelightandshadowstreamingupfrombehindthatdarkandprodigiousformandoccupyingthehalfofthedullandopaqueheavens,wasthemostimposingandimpressivemarvelIhadeverlookedupon。Thereisnosimileforit,fornothingislikeit。Ifachildhadaskedmewhatitwas,Ishouldhavesaid,\"Humbleyourself,inthispresence,itisthegloryflowingfromthehiddenheadoftheCreator。\" Onefallsshorterofthetruththanthat,sometimes,intryingtoexplainmysteriestothelittlepeople。 Icouldhavefoundoutthecauseofthisawe-compellingmiraclebyinquiring,foritisnotinfrequentatMontBlanc,——butIdidnotwishtoknow。Wehavenotthereverentfeelingfortherainbowthatasavagehas,becauseweknowhowitismade。Wehavelostasmuchaswegainedbypryingintothematter。 Wetookawalkdownstreet,ablockortwo,andaplacewherefourstreetsmetandtheprincipalshopswereclustered,foundthegroupsofmenintheroadwaythickerthanever——forthiswastheExchangeofChamonix。 Thesemenwereinthecostumesofguidesandporters,andweretheretobehired。 Theofficeofthatgreatpersonage,theGuide-in-ChiefoftheChamonixGuildofGuides,wasnearby。Thisguildisaclosecorporation,andisgovernedbystrictlaws。 Therearemanyexcursionroutes,somedangerousandsomenot,somethatcanbemadesafelywithoutaguide,andsomethatcannot。Thebureaudeterminesthesethings。 Whereitdecidesthataguideisnecessary,youareforbiddentogowithoutone。Neitherareyouallowedtobeavictimofextortion:thelawstateswhatyouaretopay。 Theguidesserveinrotation;youcannotselectthemanwhoistotakeyourlifeintohishands,youmusttaketheworstinthelot,ifitishisturn。Aguide\'sfeerangesallthewayupfromahalf-dollar(forsometriflingexcursionofafewrods)totwentydollars,accordingtothedistancetraversedandthenatureoftheground。 Aguide\'sfeefortakingapersontothesummitofMontBlancandback,istwentydollars——andheearnsit。 Thetimeemployedisusuallythreedays,andthereisenoughearlyrisinginittomakeamanfarmore\"healthyandwealthyandwise\"thananyonemanhasanyrighttobe。 Theporter\'sfeeforthesametripistendollars。 Severalfools——no,Imeanseveraltourists——usuallygotogether,anddivideuptheexpense,andthusmakeitlight; forifonlyonef——tourist,Imean——went,hewouldhavetohaveseveralguidesandporters,andthatwouldmakethemattercostly。 WewentintotheChief\'soffice。Thereweremapsofmountainsonthewalls;alsooneortwolithographsofcelebratedguides,andaportraitofthescientistDeSaussure。 Inglasscasesweresomelabeledfragmentsofbootsandbatons,andothersuggestiverelicsandremembrancesofcasualtiesonMountBlanc。Inabookwasarecordofalltheascentswhichhaveeverbeenmade,beginningwithNos。 1and2——beingthoseofJacquesBalmatandDeSaussure,in1787,andendingwithNo。685,whichwasn\'tcoldyet。 InfactNo。685wasstandingbytheofficialtablewaitingtoreceivethepreciousofficialdiplomawhichshouldprovetohisGermanhouseholdandtohisdescendantsthathehadoncebeenindiscreetenoughtoclimbtothetopofMontBlanc。 Helookedveryhappywhenhegothisdocument;infact,hespokeupandsaidheWAShappy。 Itriedtobuyadiplomaforaninvalidfriendathomewhohadnevertraveled,andwhosedesireallhislifehasbeentoascendMontBlanc,buttheGuide-in-Chiefratherinsolentlyrefusedtosellmeone。Iwasverymuchoffended。 IsaidIdidnotproposetobediscriminatedagainstontheaccountofmynationality;thathehadjustsoldadiplomatothisGermangentleman,andmymoneywasagoodashis;Iwouldseetoitthathecouldn\'tkeephisshopforGermansanddenyhisproducetoAmericans; Iwouldhavehislicensetakenawayfromhimatthedroppingofahandkerchief;ifFrancerefusedtobreakhim,Iwouldmakeaninternationalmatterofitandbringonawar; thesoilshouldbedrenchedwithblood;andnotonlythat,butIwouldsetupanoppositionshowandselldiplomasathalfprice。 FortwocentsIwouldhavedonethesethings,too; butnobodyofferedmetwocents。ItriedtomovethatGerman\'sfeelings,butitcouldnotbedone;hewouldnotgivemehisdiploma,neitherwouldhesellittome。 ITOLDhimmyfriendwassickandcouldnotcomehimself,buthesaidhedidnotcareaVERDAMMTESPFENNIG,hewantedhisdiplomaforhimself——didIsupposehewasgoingtoriskhisneckforthatthingandthengiveittoasickstranger?Indeedhewouldn\'t,sohewouldn\'t。 Iresolved,then,thatIwoulddoallIcouldtoinjureMontBlanc。 Intherecord-bookwasalistofallthefatalaccidentswhichhappenedonthemountain。Itbeganwiththeonein1820whentheRussianDr。Hamel\'sthreeguideswerelostinacreviceoftheglacier,anditrecordedthedeliveryoftheremainsinthevalleybytheslow-movingglacierforty-oneyearslater。Thelatestcatastropheborethedate1877。 Westeppedoutandrovedaboutthevillageawhile。 InfrontofthelittlechurchwasamonumenttothememoryoftheboldguideJacquesBalmat,thefirstmanwhoeverstooduponthesummitofMontBlanc。Hemadethatwildtripsolitaryandalone。Heaccomplishedtheascentanumberoftimesafterward。Astretchofnearlyhalfacenturylaybetweenhisfirstascentandhislastone。 Attheripeoldageofseventy-twohewasclimbingaroundacornerofaloftyprecipiceofthePicduMidi——nobodywithhim——whenheslippedandfell。 Sohediedintheharness。 Hehadgrownveryavariciousinhisoldage,andusedtogooffstealthilytohuntfornon-existentandimpossiblegoldamongthoseperilouspeaksandprecipices。 Hewasonaquestofthatkindwhenhelosthislife。 Therewasastatuetohim,andanothertoDeSaussure,inthehallofourhotel,andametalplateonthedoorofaroomupstairsboreaninscriptiontotheeffectthatthatroomhadbeenoccupiedbyAlbertSmith。 BalmatandDeSaussurediscoveredMontBlanc——sotospeak——butitwasSmithwhomadeitapayingproperty。 HisarticlesinBLACKWOODandhislecturesonMontBlancinLondonadvertiseditandmadepeopleasanxioustoseeitasifitowedthemmoney。 Aswestrolledalongtheroadwelookedupandsawaredsignal-lightglowinginthedarknessofthemountainside。 Itseemedbutatriflingwayup——perhapsahundredyards,aclimboftenminutes。Itwasaluckypieceofsagacityinusthatweconcludedtostopamanwhomwemetandgetalightforourpipesfromhiminsteadofcontinuingtheclimbtothatlanterntogetalight,ashadbeenourpurpose。 ThemansaidthatthatlanternwasontheGrandsMulets,somesixty-fivehundredfeetabovethevalley!IknowbyourRiffelbergexperience,thatitwouldhavetakenusagoodpartofaweektogoupthere。Iwouldsoonernotsmokeatall,thantakeallthattroubleforalight。 Eveninthedaytimetheforeshadowingeffectofthismountain\'scloseproximitycreatescuriousdeceptions。 Forinstance,oneseeswiththenakedeyeacabinuptherebesidetheglacier,andalittleaboveandbeyondheseesthespotwherethatredlightwaslocated; hethinkshecouldthrowastonefromtheoneplacetotheother。Buthecouldn\'t,forthedifferencebetweenthetwoaltitudesismorethanthreethousandfeet。 Itlooksimpossible,frombelow,thatthiscanbetrue,butitistrue,nevertheless。 Whilestrollingaround,wekepttherunofthemoonallthetime,andwestillkeptaneyeonherafterwegotbacktothehotelportico。Ihadatheorythatthegravitationofrefraction,beingsubsidiarytoatmosphericcompensation,therefrangibilityoftheearth\'ssurfacewouldemphasizethiseffectinregionswheregreatmountainrangesoccur,andpossiblysoeven-handedimpacttheodicandidyllicforcestogether,theoneupontheother,astopreventthemoonfromrisinghigherthan12,200feetabovesea-level。Thisdaringtheoryhadbeenreceivedwithfranticscornbysomeofmyfellow-scientists,andwithaneagersilencebyothers。AmongtheformerImaymentionProf。H——y;andamongthelatterProf。T——l。Suchisprofessionaljealousy;ascientistwillnevershowanykindnessforatheorywhichhedidnotstarthimself。 Thereisnofeelingofbrotherhoodamongthesepeople。 Indeed,theyalwaysresentitwhenIcallthembrother。 Toshowhowfartheirungenerositycancarrythem,IwillstatethatIofferedtoletProf。H——ypublishmygreattheoryashisowndiscovery;Ievenbeggedhimtodoit; Ievenproposedtoprintitmyselfashistheory。 Insteadofthankingme,hesaidthatifItriedtofastenthattheoryonhimhewouldsuemeforslander。 IwasgoingtoofferittoMr。Darwin,whomIunderstoodtobeamanwithoutprejudices,butitoccurredtomethatperhapshewouldnotbeinterestedinitsinceitdidnotconcernheraldry。 ButIamgladnow,thatIwasforcedtofathermyintrepidtheorymyself,for,onthenightofwhichIamwriting,itwastriumphantlyjustifiedandestablished。MontBlancisnearlysixteenthousandfeethigh;hehidthemoonutterly; nearhimisapeakwhichis12,216feethigh;themoonslidalongbehindthepinnacles,andwhensheapproachedthatoneIwatchedherwithintenseinterest,formyreputationasascientistmuststandorfallbyitsdecision。 IcannotdescribetheemotionswhichsurgedliketidalwavesthroughmybreastwhenIsawthemoonglidebehindthatloftyneedleandpassitbywithoutexposingmorethantwofeetfourinchesofherupperrimaboveit; Iwassecure,then。Iknewshecouldrisenohigher,andIwasright。Shesailedbehindallthepeaksandneversucceededinhoistingherdiskaboveasingleoneofthem。 Whilethemoonwasbehindoneofthosesharpfingers,itsshadowwasflungathwartthevacantheavens—— along,slanting,clean-cut,darkray——withastreamingandenergeticsuggestionofFORCEaboutit,suchastheascendingjetofwaterfromapowerfulfire-engineaffords。 Itwascurioustoseeagoodstrongshadowofanearthlyobjectcastuponsointangibleafieldastheatmosphere。 Wewenttobed,atlast,andwentquicklytosleep,butI wokeup,afteraboutthreehours,withthrobbingtemples,andaheadwhichwasphysicallysore,outsideandin。 Iwasdazed,dreamy,wretched,seedy,unrefreshed。 Irecognizedtheoccasionofallthis:itwasthattorrent。 InthemountainvillagesofSwitzerland,andalongtheroads,onehasalwaystheroarofthetorrentinhisears。 Heimaginesitismusic,andhethinkspoeticthingsaboutit;heliesinhiscomfortablebedandislulledtosleepbyit。Butbyandbyhebeginstonoticethathisheadisverysore——hecannotaccountforit; insolitudeswheretheprofoundestsilencereigns,henoticesasullen,distant,continuousroarinhisears,whichislikewhathewouldexperienceifhehadsea-shellspressedagainstthem——hecannotaccountforit;heisdrowsyandabsent-minded;thereisnotenacitytohismind,hecannotkeepholdofathoughtandfollowitout; ifhesitsdowntowrite,hisvocabularyisempty,nosuitablewordswillcome,heforgetswhathestartedtodo,andremainsthere,peninhand,headtiltedup,eyesclosed,listeningpainfullytothemuffledroarofadistanttraininhisears;inhissoundestsleepthestraincontinues,hegoesonlistening,alwayslisteningintently,anxiously,andwakesatlast,harassed,irritable,unrefreshed。 Hecannotmanagetoaccountforthesethings。 Dayafterdayhefeelsasifhehadspenthisnightsinasleeping-car。Itactuallytakeshimweekstofindoutthatitisthosepersecutingtorrentsthathavebeenmakingallthemischief。ItistimeforhimtogetoutofSwitzerland,then,forassoonashehasdiscoveredthecause,themiseryismagnifiedseveralfold。Theroarofthetorrentismaddening,then,forhisimaginationisassisting;thephysicalpainitinflictsisexquisite。 Whenhefindsheisapproachingoneofthosestreams,hisdreadissolivelythatheisdisposedtoflythetrackandavoidtheimplacablefoe。 Eightorninemonthsafterthedistressofthetorrentshaddepartedfromme,theroarandthunderofthestreetsofParisbroughtitallbackagain。Imovedtothesixthstoryofthehoteltohuntforpeace。 Aboutmidnightthenoisesdulledaway,andIwassinkingtosleep,whenIheardanewandcurioussound; Ilistened:evidentlysomejoyouslunaticwassoftlydancinga\"doubleshuffle\"intheroomovermyhead。 Ihadtowaitforhimtogetthrough,ofcourse。Fivelong,longminuteshesmoothlyshuffledaway——apausefollowed,thensomethingfellwithathumponthefloor。 Isaidtomyself\"There——heispullingoffhisboots—— thankheavensheisdone。\"Anotherslightpause——hewenttoshufflingagain!Isaidtomyself,\"Ishetryingtoseewhathecandowithonlyonebooton?\"Presentlycameanotherpauseandanotherthumponthefloor。Isaid\"Good,hehaspulledoffhisotherboot——NOWheisdone。\" Buthewasn\'t。Thenextmomenthewasshufflingagain。 Isaid,\"Confoundhim,heisatitinhisslippers!\" Afteralittlecamethatsameoldpause,andrightafteritthatthumpontheflooroncemore。Isaid,\"Hanghim,hehadonTWOpairofboots!\"Foranhourthatmagicianwentonshufflingandpullingoffbootstillhehadshedasmanyastwenty-fivepair,andIwashoveringonthevergeoflunacy。Igotmygunandstoleupthere。Thefellowwasinthemidstofanacreofsprawlingboots,andhehadabootinhishand,shufflingit——no,ImeanPOLISHINGit。 Themysterywasexplained。Hehadn\'tbeendancing。 Hewasthe\"Boots\"ofthehotel,andwasattendingtobusiness。 CHAPTERXLIV [IScaleMontBlanc——byTelescope] Afterbreakfast,thatnextmorninginChamonix,wewentoutintheyardandwatchedthegangsofexcursioningtouristsarrivinganddepartingwiththeirmulesandguidesandporters;theywetookalookthroughthetelescopeatthesnowyhumpofMontBlanc。Itwasbrilliantwithsunshine,andthevastsmoothbulgeseemedhardlyfivehundredyardsaway。WiththenakedeyewecoulddimlymakeoutthehouseatthePierrePointue,whichislocatedbythesideofthegreatglacier,andismorethanthreethousandfeetabovethelevelofthevalley; butwiththetelescopewecouldseeallitsdetails。 WhileIlooked,awomanrodebythehouseonamule,andI sawherwithsharpdistinctness;Icouldhavedescribedherdress。Isawhernodtothepeopleofthehouse,andreinuphermule,andputherhanduptoshieldhereyesfromthesun。Iwasnotusedtotelescopes; infact,Ihadneverlookedthroughagoodonebefore; itseemedincredibletomethatthiswomancouldbesofaraway。IwassatisfiedthatIcouldseeallthesedetailswithmynakedeye;butwhenItriedit,thatmuleandthosevividpeoplehadwhollyvanished,andthehouseitselfwasbecomesmallandvague。Itriedthetelescopeagain,andagaineverythingwasvivid。 Thestrongblackshadowsofthemuleandthewomanwereflungagainstthesideofthehouse,andIsawthemule\'ssilhouettewaveitsears。 Thetelescopulist——orthetelescopulariat——Idonotknowwhichisright——saidapartyweremakingagrandascent,andwouldcomeinsightontheremoteupperheights,presently;sowewaitedtoobservethisperformance。 PresentlyIhadasuperbidea。IwantedtostandwithapartyonthesummitofMontBlanc,merelytobeabletosayIhaddoneit,andIbelievedthetelescopecouldsetmewithinsevenfeetoftheuppermostman。 Thetelescoperassuredmethatitcould。IthenaskedhimhowmuchIowedhimforasfarasIhadgot?Hesaid,onefranc。Iaskedhimhowmuchitwouldcosttomaketheentireascent?Threefrancs。Iatoncedeterminedtomaketheentireascent。ButfirstIinquirediftherewasanydanger?Hesaidno——notbytelescope; saidhehadtakenagreatmanypartiestothesummit,andneverlostaman。Iaskedwhathewouldchargetoletmyagentgowithme,togetherwithsuchguidesandportersasmightbenecessary。HesaidhewouldletHarrisgofortwofrancs;andthatunlesswewereunusuallytimid,heshouldconsiderguidesandportersunnecessary; itwasnotcustomarytotakethem,whengoingbytelescope,fortheywereratheranencumbrancethanahelp。 Hesaidthatthepartynowonthemountainwereapproachingthemostdifficultpart,andifwehurriedweshouldovertakethemwithintenminutes,andcouldthenjointhemandhavethebenefitoftheirguidesandporterswithouttheirknowledge,andwithoutexpensetous。 Ithensaidwewouldstartimmediately。IbelieveI saiditcalmly,thoughIwasconsciousofashudderandofapalingcheek,inviewofthenatureoftheexploitIwassounreflectinglyengagedin。Buttheolddaredevilspiritwasuponme,andIsaidthatasI hadcommittedmyselfIwouldnotbackdown;IwouldascendMontBlancifitcostmemylife。Itoldthemantoslanthismachineintheproperdirectionandletusbeoff。 Harriswasafraidanddidnotwanttogo,butIheartenedhimupandsaidIwouldholdhishandalltheway;sohegavehisconsent,thoughhetrembledalittleatfirst。 Itookalastpatheticlookuponthepleasantsummersceneaboutme,thenboldlyputmyeyetotheglassandpreparedtomountamongthegrimglaciersandtheeverlastingsnows。 WetookourwaycarefullyandcautiouslyacrossthegreatGlacierdesBossons,overyawningandterrificcrevicesandamongimposingcragsandbuttressesoficewhichwerefringedwithiciclesofgiganticproportions。Thedesertoficethatstretchedfarandwideaboutuswaswildanddesolatebeyonddescription,andtheperilswhichbesetusweresogreatthatattimesIwasmindedtoturnback。 ButIpulledmyplucktogetherandpushedon。 Wepassedtheglaciersafelyandbegantomountthesteepsbeyond,withgreatalacrity。Whenweweresevenminutesoutfromthestarting-point,wereachedanaltitudewherethescenetookanewaspect; anapparentlylimitlesscontinentofgleamingsnowwastiltedheavenwardbeforeourfaces。Asmyeyefollowedthatawfulacclivityfarawayupintotheremoteskies,itseemedtomethatallIhadeverseenbeforeofsublimityandmagnitudewassmallandinsignificantcomparedtothis。 Werestedamoment,andthenbegantomountwithspeed。 Withinthreeminuteswecaughtsightofthepartyaheadofus,andstoppedtoobservethem。Theyweretoilingupalong,slantingridgeofsnow——twelvepersons,ropedtogethersomefifteenfeetapart,marchinginsinglefile,andstronglymarkedagainsttheclearbluesky。Onewasawoman。 Wecouldseethemlifttheirfeetandputthemdown; wesawthemswingtheiralpenstocksforwardinunison,likesomanypendulums,andthenbeartheirweightuponthem;wesawtheladywaveherhandkerchief。 Theydraggedthemselvesupwardinawornandwearyway,fortheyhadbeenclimbingsteadilyfromtheGrandMulets,ontheGlacierdesDossons,sincethreeinthemorning,anditwaseleven,now。Wesawthemsinkdowninthesnowandrest,anddrinksomethingfromabottle。 Afterawhiletheymovedon,andastheyapproachedthefinalshortdashofthehome-stretchwecloseduponthemandjoinedthem。 Presentlyweallstoodtogetheronthesummit!Whataviewwasspreadoutbelow!AwayoffunderthenorthwesternhorizonrolledthesilentbillowsoftheFarneseOberland,theirsnowycrestsglintingsoftlyinthesubduedlightsofdistance; inthenorthrosethegiantformoftheWobblehorn,drapedfrompeaktoshoulderinsablethunder-clouds; beyondhim,totheright,stretchedthegrandprocessionalsummitsoftheCisalpineCordillera,drownedinasensuoushaze;totheeastloomedthecolossalmassesoftheYodelhorn,theFuddelhorn,andtheDinnerhorn,theircloudlesssummitsflashingwhiteandcoldinthesun; beyondthemshimmeredthefaintfarlineoftheGhautsofJubbelporeandtheAigullesdesAlleghenies;inthesouthtoweredthesmokingpeakofPopocatapetlandtheunapproachablealtitudesofthepeerlessScrabblehorn; inthewest-souththestatelyrangeoftheHimalayaslaydreaminginapurplegloom;andthenceallaroundthecurvinghorizontheeyerovedoveratroubledseaofsun-kissedAlps,andnoted,hereandthere,thenobleproportionsandthesoaringdomesoftheBottlehorn,andtheSaddlehorn,andtheShovelhorn,andthePowderhorn,allbathedinthegloryofnoonandmottledwithsoftlyglidingblots,theshadowsflungfromdriftingclouds。 Overcomebythescene,weallraisedatriumphant,tremendousshout,inunison。Astartledmanatmyelbowsaid: \"Confoundyou,whatdoyouyelllikethatfor,righthereinthestreet?\" ThatbroughtmedowntoChamonix,likeaflirt。 Igavethatmansomespiritualadviceanddisposedofhim,andthenpaidthetelescopemanhisfullfee,andsaidthatwewerecharmedwiththetripandwouldremaindown,andnotreascendandrequirehimtofetchusdownbytelescope。 Thispleasedhimverymuch,forofcoursewecouldhavesteppedbacktothesummitandputhimtothetroubleofbringingushomeifwewantedto。 Ijudgedwecouldgetdiplomas,now,anyhow;sowewentafterthem,buttheChiefGuideputusoff,withonepretextoranother,duringallthetimewestayedinChamonix,andweendedbynevergettingthematall。 Somuchforhisprejudiceagainstpeople\'snationality。 However,weworriedhimenoughtomakehimrememberusandourascentforsometime。Heevensaid,once,thathewishedtherewasalunaticasyluminChamonix。 Thisshowsthathereallyhadfearsthatweweregoingtodrivehimmad。Itwaswhatweintendedtodo,butlackoftimedefeatedit。 Icannotventuretoadvisethereaderonewayortheother,astoascendingMontBlanc。Isayonlythis:ifheisatalltimid,theenjoymentsofthetripwillhardlymakeupforthehardshipsandsufferingshewillhavetoendure。 But,ifhehasgoodnerve,youth,health,andabold,firmwill,andcouldleavehisfamilycomfortablyprovidedforincasetheworsthappened,hewouldfindtheascentawonderfulexperience,andtheviewfromthetopavisiontodreamabout,andtellabout,andrecallwithexultationallthedaysofhislife。 WhileIdonotadvisesuchapersontoattempttheascent,Idonotadvisehimagainstit。Butifheelectstoattemptit,lethimbewarilycarefuloftwothings:choseacalm,clearday;anddonotpaythetelescopemaninadvance。 Therearedarkstoriesofhisgettingadvancepayersonthesummitandthenleavingthemtheretorot。 AfrightfultragedywasoncewitnessedthroughtheChamonixtelescopes。Thinkofquestionsandanswerslikethese,onaninquest: CORONER。Yousawdeceasedlosehislife? WITNESS。Idid。 C。Wherewashe,atthetime? W。ClosetothesummitofMontBlanc。 C。Wherewereyou? W。InthemainstreetofChamonix。 C。Whatwasthedistancebetweenyou? W。ALITTLEOVERFIVEMILES,asthebirdflies。 Thisaccidentoccurredin1866,ayearandamonthafterthedisasterontheMatterhorn。ThreeadventurousEnglishgentlemen,[1]ofgreatexperienceinmountain-climbing,madeuptheirmindstoascendMontBlancwithoutguidesorporters。 Allendeavorstodissuadethemfromtheirprojectfailed。 PowerfultelescopesarenumerousinChamonix。Thesehugebrasstubes,mountedontheirscaffoldingsandpointedskywardfromeverychoicevantage-ground,havetheformidablelookofartillery,andgivethetownthegeneralaspectofgettingreadytorepelachargeofangels。 ThereadermayeasilybelievethatthetelescopeshadplentyofcustomonthatAugustmorningin1866,foreverybodyknewofthedangerousundertakingwhichwasonfoot,andallhadfearsthatmisfortunewouldresult。 Allthemorningthetubesremaineddirectedtowardthemountainheights,eachwithitsanxiousgrouparoundit; butthewhitedesertswerevacant。 1。SirGeorgeYoungandhisbrothersJamesandAlbert。 Atlast,towardeleveno\'clock,thepeoplewhowerelookingthroughthetelescopescriedout\"Theretheyare!\"——andsureenough,farup,ontheloftiestterracesoftheGrandPlateau,thethreepygmiesappeared,climbingwithremarkablevigorandspirit。Theydisappearedinthe\"Corridor,\"andwerelosttosightduringanhour。 Thentheyreappeared,andwerepresentlyseenstandingtogetherupontheextremesummitofMontBlanc。So,allwaswell。 TheyremainedafewminutesonthathighestpointoflandinEurope,atargetforallthetelescopes,andwerethenseentobegindescent。Suddenlyallthreevanished。 Aninstantafter,theyappearedagain,TWOTHOUSANDFEET BELOW! Evidently,theyhadtrippedandbeenshotdownanalmostperpendicularslopeoficetoapointwhereitjoinedtheborderoftheupperglacier。Naturally,thedistantwitnesssupposedtheywerenowlookinguponthreecorpses; sotheycouldhardlybelievetheireyeswhentheypresentlysawtwoofthemenrisetotheirfeetandbendoverthethird。 Duringtwohoursandahalftheywatchedthetwobusyingthemselvesovertheextendedformoftheirbrother,whoseemedentirelyinert。Chamonix\'saffairsstoodstill; everybodywasinthestreet,allinterestwascentereduponwhatwasgoingonuponthatloftyandisolatedstagefivemilesaway。Finallythetwo——oneofthemwalkingwithgreatdifficulty——wereseentobegindescent,abandoningthethird,whowasnodoubtlifeless。 Theirmovementswerefollowed,stepbystep,untiltheyreachedthe\"Corridor\"anddisappearedbehinditsridge。 Beforetheyhadhadtimetotraversethe\"Corridor\" andreappear,twilightwascome,andthepowerofthetelescopewasatanend。 Thesurvivorshadamostperilousjourneybeforetheminthegatheringdarkness,fortheymustgetdowntotheGrandsMuletsbeforetheywouldfindasafestopping-place——alongandtediousdescent,andperilousenougheveningooddaylight。Theoldestguidesexpressedtheopinionthattheycouldnotsucceed; thatallthechanceswerethattheywouldlosetheirlives。 Yetthosebravemendidsucceed。TheyreachedtheGrandsMuletsinsafety。Eventhefearfulshockwhichtheirnerveshadsustainedwasnotsufficienttoovercometheircoolnessandcourage。Itwouldappearfromtheofficialaccountthattheywerethreadingtheirwaydownthroughthosedangersfromtheclosinginoftwilightuntiltwoo\'clockinthemorning,orlater,becausetherescuingpartyfromChamonixreachedtheGrandMuletsaboutthreeinthemorningandmovedthencetowardthesceneofthedisasterundertheleadershipofSirGeorgeYoung,\"whohadonlyjustarrived。\" Afterhavingbeenonhisfeettwenty-fourhours,intheexhaustingworkofmountain-climbing,SirGeorgebeganthereascentattheheadofthereliefpartyofsixguides,torecoverthecorpseofhisbrother。 Thiswasconsideredanewimprudence,asthenumberwastoofewfortheservicerequired。AnotherreliefpartypresentlyarrivedatthecabinontheGrandsMuletsandquarteredthemselvestheretoawaitevents。 TenhoursafterSirGeorge\'sdeparturetowardthesummit,thisnewreliefwerestillscanningthesnowyaltitudesabovethemfromtheirownhighperchamongtheicedesertstenthousandfeetabovethelevelofthesea,butthewholeforenoonhadpassedwithoutaglimpseofanylivingthingappearingupthere。 Thiswasalarming。Halfadozenoftheirnumbersetout,thenearlyintheafternoon,toseekandsuccorSirGeorgeandhisguides。Thepersonsremainingatthecabinsawthesedisappear,andthenensuedanotherdistressingwait。 Fourhourspassed,withouttidings。Thenatfiveo\'clockanotherrelief,consistingofthreeguides,setforwardfromthecabin。Theycarriedfoodandcordialsfortherefreshmentoftheirpredecessors; theytooklanternswiththem,too;nightwascomingon,andtomakemattersworse,afine,coldrainhadbeguntofall。 Atthesamehourthatthesethreebegantheirdangerousascent,theofficialGuide-in-ChiefoftheMontBlancregionundertookthedangerousdescenttoChamonix,allalone,togetreinforcements。However,acoupleofhourslater,at7P。M。,theanxioussolicitudecametoanend,andhappily。Abuglenotewasheard,andaclusterofblackspeckswasdistinguishableagainstthesnowsoftheupperheights。Thewatcherscountedthesespeckseagerly——fourteen——nobodywasmissing。Anhourandahalflatertheywereallsafeundertheroofofthecabin。 Theyhadbroughtthecorpsewiththem。SirGeorgeYoungtarriedtherebutafewminutes,andthenbeganthelongandtroublesomedescentfromthecabintoChamonix。 Heprobablyreachedthereabouttwoorthreeo\'clockinthemorning,afterhavingbeenafootamongtherocksandglaciersduringtwodaysandtwonights。Hisendurancewasequaltohisdaring。 ThecauseoftheunaccountabledelayofSirGeorgeandthereliefpartiesamongtheheightswherethedisasterhadhappenedwasathickfog——or,partlythatandpartlytheslowanddifficultworkofconveyingthedeadbodydowntheperiloussteeps。 Thecorpse,uponbeingviewedattheinquest,showednobruises,anditwassometimebeforethesurgeonsdiscoveredthattheneckwasbroken。Oneofthesurvivingbrothershadsustainedsomeunimportantinjuries,buttheotherhadsufferednohurtatall。Howthesemencouldfalltwothousandfeet,almostperpendicularly,andliveafterward,isamoststrangeandunaccountablething。 AgreatmanywomenhavemadetheascentofMontBlanc。 AnEnglishgirl,MissStratton,conceivedthedaringidea,twoorthreeyearsago,ofattemptingtheascentinthemiddleofwinter。Shetriedit——andshesucceeded。 Moreover,shefrozetwoofherfingersonthewayup,shefellinlovewithherguideonthesummit,andshemarriedhimwhenshegottothebottomagain。 Thereisnothinginromance,inthewayofastriking\"situation,\"whichcanbeatthislovesceneinmidheavenonanisolatedice-crestwiththethermometeratzeroandanArticgaleblowing。 ThefirstwomanwhoascendedMontBlancwasagirlagedtwenty-two——Mlle。MariaParadis——1809。Nobodywaswithherbuthersweetheart,andhewasnotaguide。 Thesexthentookarestforaboutthirtyyears,whenaMlle。d\'Angevillemadetheascent——1838。InChamonixIpickeduparudeoldlithographofthatdaywhichpicturedher\"intheact。\" However,Ivalueitlessasaworkofartthanasafashion-plate。Missd\'Angevilleputonapairofmen\'spantaloonstoclimbit,whichwaswise;butshecrampedtheirutilitybyaddingherpetticoat,whichwasidiotic。 Oneofthemournfulestcalamitieswhichmen\'sdispositiontoclimbdangerousmountainshasresultedin,happenedonMontBlancinSeptember1870。M。D\'ArvetellsthestorybrieflyinhisHISTOIREDUMONTBLANC。 InthenextchapterIwillcopyitschieffeatures。 CHAPTERXLV ACatastropheWhichCostElevenLives[PerishedattheVergeofSafety] Onthe5thofSeptember,1870,acaravanofelevenpersonsdepartedfromChamonixtomaketheascentofMontBlanc。 Threeofthepartyweretourists;Messrs。RandallandBean,Americans,andMr。GeorgeCorkindale,aScotchgentleman; therewerethreeguidesandfiveporters。ThecabinontheGrandsMuletswasreachedthatday;theascentwasresumedearlythenextmorning,September6th。 Thedaywasfineandclear,andthemovementsofthepartywereobservedthroughthetelescopesofChamonix;attwoo\'clockintheafternoontheywereseentoreachthesummit。 Afewminuteslatertheywereseenmakingthefirststepsofthedescent;thenacloudclosedaroundthemandhidthemfromview。 Eighthourspassed,thecloudstillremained,nightcame,noonehadreturnedtotheGrandsMulets。SylvainCouttet,keeperofthecabinthere,suspectedamisfortune,andsentdowntothevalleyforhelp。Adetachmentofguideswentup,butbythetimetheyhadmadethetedioustripandreachedthecabin,aragingstormhadsetin。 Theyhadtowait;nothingcouldbeattemptedinsuchatempest。 ThewildstormlastedMORETHANAWEEK,withoutceasing; butonthe17th,Couttet,withseveralguides,leftthecabinandsucceededinmakingtheascent。Inthesnowywastesnearthesummittheycameuponfivebodies,lyingupontheirsidesinareposefulattitudewhichsuggestedthatpossiblytheyhadfallenasleepthere,whileexhaustedwithfatigueandhungerandbenumbedwithcold,andneverknewwhendeathstoleuponthem。Couttetmovedafewstepsfurtheranddiscoveredfivemorebodies。 Theeleventhcorpse——thatofaporter——wasnotfound,althoughdiligentsearchwasmadeforit。 InthepocketofMr。Bean,oneoftheAmericans,wasfoundanote-bookinwhichhadbeenpenciledsomesentenceswhichadmitus,infleshandspirit,asitwere,tothepresenceofthesemenduringtheirlasthoursoflife,andtothegrislyhorrorswhichtheirfadingvisionlookeduponandtheirfailingconsciousnesstookcognizanceof: TUESDAY,SEPT。6。IhavemadetheascentofMontBlanc,withtenpersons——eightguides,andMr。CorkindaleandMr。Randall。Wereachedthesummitathalfpast2。 Immediatelyafterquittingit,wewereenvelopedincloudsofsnow。Wepassedthenightinagrottohollowedinthesnow,whichaffordedusbutpoorshelter,andI wasillallnight。 SEPT。7——MORNING。Thecoldisexcessive。Thesnowfallsheavilyandwithoutinterruption。Theguidestakenorest。 EVENING。MyDearHessie,wehavebeentwodaysonMontBlanc,inthemidstofaterriblehurricaneofsnow,wehavelostourway,andareinaholescoopedinthesnow,atanaltitudeof15,000feet。Ihavenolongeranyhopeofdescending。 Theyhadwanderedaround,andaround,intheblindingsnow-storm,hopelesslylost,inaspaceonlyahundredyardssquare;andwhencoldandfatiguevanquishedthematlast,theyscoopedtheircaveandlaydowntheretodiebyinches,UNAWARETHATFIVESTEPSMOREWOULDHAVE BROUGHTTHEMINTOTHETRUTHPATH。Theyweresoneartolifeandsafetyasthat,anddidnotsuspectit。