第15章

WhileIwasfeelingthesethings，Iwasgroping，withoutknowingit，towardanunderstandingofwhatthespelliswhichpeoplefindintheAlps，andinnoothermountains——thatstrange，deep，namelessinfluence，which，oncefelt，cannotbeforgotten——oncefelt，leavesalwaysbehinditarestlesslongingtofeelitagain——alongingwhichislikehomesickness；agrieving，hauntingyearningwhichwillplead，implore，andpersecutetillithasitswill。 Imetdozensofpeople，imaginativeandunimaginative，cultivatedanduncultivated，whohadcomefromfarcountriesandroamedthroughtheSwissAlpsyearafteryear——theycouldnotexplainwhy。Theyhadcomefirst，theysaid，outofidlecuriosity，becauseeverybodytalkedaboutit； theyhadcomesincebecausetheycouldnothelpit，andtheyshouldkeeponcoming，whiletheylived，forthesamereason； theyhadtriedtobreaktheirchainsandstayaway，butitwasfutile；now，theyhadnodesiretobreakthem。 Otherscamenearerformulatingwhattheyfelt；theysaidtheycouldfindperfectrestandpeacenowhereelsewhentheyweretroubled:allfretsandworriesandchafingssanktosleepinthepresenceofthebenignantserenityoftheAlps； theGreatSpiritoftheMountainbreathedhisownpeaceupontheirhurtmindsandsorehearts，andhealedthem； theycouldnotthinkbasethoughtsordomeanandsordidthingshere，beforethevisiblethroneofGod。 DowntheroadapiecewasaKursaal——whateverthatmaybe—— andwejoinedthehumantidetoseewhatsortofenjoymentitmightafford。Itwastheusualopen-airconcert，inanornamentalgarden，withwines，beer，milk，whey，grapes，etc——thewheyandthegrapesbeingnecessariesoflifetocertaininvalidswhomphysicianscannotrepair，andwhoonlycontinuetoexistbythegraceofwheyorgrapes。Oneofthesedepartedspiritstoldme，inasadandlifelessway，thatthereisnowayforhimtolivebutbywhey，anddearly，dearlylovedwhey，hedidn\'tknowwheyhedid，buthedid。Aftermakingthispunhedied——thatisthewheyitservedhim。 Someotherremains，preservedfromdecompositionbythegrapesystem，toldmethatthegrapeswereofapeculiarbreed，highlymedicinalintheirnature，andthattheywerecountedoutandadministeredbythegrape-doctorsasmethodicallyasiftheywerepills。 Thenewpatient，ifveryfeeble，beganwithonegrapebeforebreakfast，tookthreeduringbreakfast，acouplebetweenmeals，fiveatluncheon，threeintheafternoon，sevenatdinner，fourforsupper，andpartofagrapejustbeforegoingtobed，bywayofageneralregulator。 Thequantitywasgraduallyandregularlyincreased，accordingtotheneedsandcapacitiesofthepatient，untilbyandbyyouwouldfindhimdisposingofhisonegrapepersecondallthedaylong，andhisregularbarrelperday。 Hesaidthatmencuredinthisway，andenabledtodiscardthegrapesystem，neverafterwardgotoverthehabitoftalkingasiftheyweredictatingtoaslowamanuensis，becausetheyalwaysmadeapausebetweeneachtwowordswhiletheysuckedthesubstanceoutofanimaginarygrape。 Hesaidtheseweretediouspeopletotalkwith。 Hesaidthatmenwhohadbeencuredbytheotherprocesswereeasilydistinguishedfromtherestofmankindbecausetheyalwaystiltedtheirheadsback，betweeneverytwowords，andswallowedaswigofimaginarywhey。 Hesaiditwasanimpressivethingtoobservetwomen，whohadbeencuredbythetwoprocesses，engagedinconversation——saidtheirpausesandaccompanyingmovementsweresocontinuousandregularthatastrangerwouldthinkhimselfinthepresenceofacoupleofautomaticmachines。 Onefindsoutagreatmanywonderfulthings，bytraveling，ifhestumblesupontherightperson。 IdidnotremainlongattheKursaal；themusicwasgoodenough，butitseemedrathertameafterthecycloneofthatArkansawexpert。Besides，myadventurousspirithadconceivedaformidableenterprise——nothinglessthanatripfromInterlaken，bytheGemmiandVisp，cleartoZermatt，onfoot!Soitwasnecessarytoplanthedetails，andgetreadyforanearlystart。Thecourier(thiswasnottheoneIhavejustbeenspeakingof) thoughtthattheportierofthehotelwouldbeabletotellushowtofindourway。Andsoitturnedout。 Heshowedusthewholething，onarelief-map，andwecouldseeourroute，withallitselevationsanddepressions，itsvillagesanditsrivers，asclearlyasifweweresailingoveritinaballoon。Arelief-mapisagreatthing。 Theportieralsowrotedowneachday\'sjourneyandthenightlyhotelonapieceofpaper，andmadeourcoursesoplainthatweshouldneverbeabletogetlostwithouthigh-pricedoutsidehelp。 IputthecourierinthecareofagentlemanwhowasgoingtoLausanne，andthenwewenttobed，afterlayingoutthewalking-costumesandputtingthemintoconditionforinstantoccupationinthemorning。 However，whenwecamedowntobreakfastat8A。M。，itlookedsomuchlikerainthatIhiredatwo-horsetop-buggyforthefirstthirdofthejourney。FortwoorthreehourswejoggedalongthelevelroadwhichskirtsthebeautifullakeofThun，withadimanddreamlikepictureofwateryexpansesandspectralAlpineformsalwaysbeforeus，veiledinamellowingmist。Thenasteadydownpoursetin，andhideverythingbutthenearestobjects。 Wekepttherainoutofourfaceswithumbrellas，andawayfromourbodieswiththeleatherapronofthebuggy； butthedriversatunshelteredandplacidlysoakedtheweatherinandseemedtolikeit。Wehadtheroadtoourselves，andIneverhadapleasanterexcursion。 TheweatherbegantoclearwhileweweredrivingupavalleycalledtheKienthal，andpresentlyavastblackcloud-bankinfrontofusdissolvedawayanduncurtainedthegrandproportionsandthesoaringloftinessoftheBlumisAlp。Itwasasortofbreath-takingsurprise； forwehadnotsupposedtherewasanythingbehindthatlow-hungblanketofsablecloudbutlevelvalley。 Whatwehadbeenmistakingforfleetingglimpsesofskyawayaloftthere，werereallypatchesoftheBlumis\'ssnowycrestcaughtthroughshreddedrentsinthedriftingpallofvapor。 WedinedintheinnatFrutigen，andourdriveroughttohavedinedthere，too，buthewouldnothavehadtimetodineandgetdrunkboth，sohegavehismindtomakingamasterpieceofthelatter，andsucceeded。 AGermangentlemanandhistwoyoung-ladydaughtershadbeentakingtheirnooningattheinn，andwhentheyleft，justaheadofus，itwasplainthattheirdriverwasasdrunkasours，andashappyandgood-natured，too，whichwassayingagooddeal。Theserascalsoverflowedwithattentionsandinformationfortheirguests，andwithbrotherlyloveforeachother。Theytiedtheirreins，andtookofftheircoatsandhats，sothattheymightbeabletogiveunencumberedattentiontoconversationandtothegesturesnecessaryforitsillustration。 Theroadwassmooth；itledupandoveranddownacontinualsuccessionofhills；butitwasnarrow，thehorseswereusedtoit，andcouldnotwellgetoutofitanyhow； sowhyshouldn\'tthedriversentertainthemselvesandus? Thenosesofourhorsesprojectedsociablyintotherearoftheforwardcarriage，andaswetoiledupthelonghillsourdriverstoodupandtalkedtohisfriend，andhisfriendstoodupandtalkedbacktohim，withhisreartothescenery。Whenthetopwasreachedandwewentflyingdowntheotherside，therewasnochangeintheprogram。Icarryinmymemoryyetthepictureofthatforwarddriver，onhiskneesonhishighseat，restinghiselbowsonitsback，andbeamingdownonhispassengers，withhappyeye，andflyinghair，andjollyredface，andofferinghiscardtotheoldGermangentlemanwhilehepraisedhishackandhorses，andbothteamswerewhizzingdownalonghillwithnobodyinapositiontotellwhetherwewereboundtodestructionoranundeservedsafety。 Towardsunsetweenteredabeautifulgreenvalleydottedwithchalets，acozylittledomainhiddenawayfromthebusyworldinacloisterednookamonggiantprecipicestoppedwithsnowypeaksthatseemedtofloatlikeislandsabovethecurlingsurfoftheseaofvaporthatseveredthemfromthelowerworld。Downfromvagueandvaporousheights，littleruffledzigzagmilkycurrentscamecrawling，andfoundtheirwaytothevergeofoneofthosetremendousoverhangingwalls，whencetheyplunged，ashaftofsilver，shiveredtoatomsinmid-descentandturnedtoanairpuffofluminousdust。Hereandthere，ingrooveddepressionsamongthesnowydesolationsoftheupperaltitudes，oneglimpsedtheextremityofaglacier，withitssea-greenandhoneycombedbattlementsofice。 Upthevalley，underadizzyprecipice，nestledthevillageofKandersteg，ourhalting-placeforthenight。 Weweresoonthere，andhousedinthehotel。Butthewaningdayhadsuchaninvitinginfluencethatwedidnotremainhousedmanymoments，butstruckoutandfollowedaroaringtorrentofice-wateruptoitsfarsourceinasortoflittlegrass-carpetedparlor，walledinallaroundbyvastprecipicesandoverlookedbyclusteringsummitsofice。 Thiswasthesnuggestlittlecroquet-groundimaginable； itwasperfectlylevel，andnotmorethanamilelongbyhalfamilewide。Thewallsarounditweresogigantic，andeverythingaboutitwasonsomightyascalethatitwasbelittled，bycontrast，towhatIhavelikeneditto——acozyandcarpetedparlor。ItwassohighabovetheKanderstegvalleythattherewasnothingbetweenitandthesnowy-peaks。Ihadneverbeeninsuchintimaterelationswiththehighaltitudesbefore；thesnow-peakshadalwaysbeenremoteandunapproachablegrandeurs，hitherto，butnowwewerehob-a-nob——ifonemayusesuchaseeminglyirreverentexpressionaboutcreationssoaugustasthese。 Wecouldseethestreamswhichfedthetorrentwehadfollowedissuingfromunderthegreenishrampartsofglaciers；buttwoorthreeofthese，insteadofflowingovertheprecipices，sankdownintotherockandspranginbigjetsoutofholesinthemid-faceofthewalls。 ThegreennookwhichIhavebeendescribingiscalledtheGasternthal。Theglacierstreamsgatherandflowthroughitinabroadandrushingbrooktoanarrowcleftbetweenloftyprecipices；heretherushingbrookbecomesamadtorrentandgoesboomingandthunderingdowntowardKandersteg，lashingandthrashingitswayoverandamongmonsterboulders，andhurlingchancerootsandlogsaboutlikestraws。 Therewasnolackofcascadesalongthisroute。 Thepathbythesideofthetorrentwassonarrowthatonehadtolooksharp，whenheheardacow-bell，andhuntforaplacethatwaswideenoughtoaccommodateacowandaChristiansidebyside，andsuchplaceswerenotalwaystobehadataninstant\'snotice。Thecowswearchurch-bells，andthatisagoodideainthecows，forwherethattorrentis，youcouldn\'thearanordinarycow-bellanyfurtherthanyoucouldhearthetickingofawatch。 Ineededexercise，soIemployedmyagentinsettingstrandedlogsanddeadtreesadrift，andIsatonaboulderandwatchedthemgowhirlingandleapingheadoverheelsdowntheboilingtorrent。Itwasawonderfullyexhilaratingspectacle。WhenIhadhadenoughexercise，Imadetheagenttakesome，byrunningaracewithoneofthoselogs。Imadeatriflebybettingonthelog。 AfterdinnerwehadawalkupanddowntheKanderstegvalley，inthesoftgloaming，withthespectacleofthedyinglightsofdayplayingaboutthecrestsandpinnaclesofthestillandsolemnupperrealmforcontrast，andtextfortalk。 Therewerenosoundsbutthedulledcomplainingofthetorrentandtheoccasionaltinklingofadistantbell。 Thespiritoftheplacewasasenseofdeep，pervadingpeace； onemightdreamhislifetranquillyawaythere，andnotmissitorminditwhenitwasgone。 Thesummerdepartedwiththesun，andwintercamewiththestars。Itgrewtobeabitternightinthatlittlehotel，backedupagainstaprecipicethathadnovisibletoptoit，butwekeptwarm，andwokeintimeinthemorningtofindthateverybodyelsehadleftforGemmithreehoursbefore—— soourlittleplanofhelpingthatGermanfamily(principallytheoldman)overthepass，wasablockedgenerosity。 CHAPTERXXXIV [TheWorld\'sHighestPigFarm] Wehiredtheonlyguideleft，toleadusonourway。 Hewasoverseventy，buthecouldhavegivenmenine-tenthsofhisstrengthandstillhadallhisageentitledhimto。 Heshoulderedoursatchels，overcoats，andalpenstocks，andwesetoutupthesteeppath。Itwashotwork。 Theoldmansoonbeggedustohandoverourcoatsandwaistcoatstohimtocarry，too，andwedidit； onecouldnotrefusesolittleathingtoapooroldmanlikethat；heshouldhavehadthemifhehadbeenahundredandfifty。 Whenwebeganthatascent，wecouldseeamicroscopicchaletperchedawayupagainstheavenonwhatseemedtobethehighestmountainnearus。Itwasonourright，acrossthenarrowheadofthevalley。Butwhenwegotupabreastitonitsownlevel，mountainsweretoweringhighaboveoneveryhand，andwesawthatitsaltitudewasjustaboutthatofthelittleGasternthalwhichwehadvisitedtheeveningbefore。Stillitseemedalongwayupintheair，inthatwasteandlonelywildernessofrocks。 Ithadanunfencedgrass-plotinfrontofitwhichseemedaboutasbigasabilliard-table，andthisgrass-plotslantedsosharplydownward，andwassobrief，andendedsoexceedinglysoonatthevergeoftheabsoluteprecipice，thatitwasashudderythingtothinkofaperson\'sventuringtotrusthisfootonaninclinesosituatedatall。 Supposeamansteppedonanorangepeelinthatyard； therewouldbenothingforhimtoseize；nothingcouldkeephimfromrolling；fiverevolutionswouldbringhimtotheedge，andoverhewouldgo。Whatafrightfuldistancehewouldfall!——forthereareveryfewbirdsthatflyashighashisstarting-point。Hewouldstrikeandbounce，twoorthreetimes，onhiswaydown，butthiswouldbenoadvantagetohim。Iwouldassoontakinganairingontheslantofarainbowasinsuchafrontyard。 Iwouldrather，infact，forthedistancedownwouldbeaboutthesame，anditispleasantertoslidethantobounce。 Icouldnotseehowthepeasantsgotuptothatchalet—— theregionseemedtoosteepforanythingbutaballoon。 Aswestrolledon，climbinguphigherandhigher，wewerecontinuallybringingneighboringpeaksintoviewandloftyprominencewhichhadbeenhiddenbehindlowerpeaksbefore； sobyandby，whilestandingbeforeagroupofthesegiants，welookedaroundforthechaletagain；thereitwas，awaydownbelowus，apparentlyonaninconspicuousridgeinthevalley!Itwasasfarbelowus，now，asithadbeenaboveuswhenwewerebeginningtheascent。 Afterawhilethepathledusalongarailedprecipice，andwelookedover——farbeneathuswasthesnugparloragain，thelittleGasternthal，withitswaterjetsspoutingfromthefaceofitsrockwalls。Wecouldhavedroppedastoneintoit。Wehadbeenfindingthetopoftheworldallalong——andalwaysfindingastillhighertopstealingintoviewinadisappointingwayjustahead；whenwelookeddownintotheGasternthalwefeltprettysurethatwehadreachedthegenuinetopatlast，butitwasnotso； thereweremuchhigheraltitudestobescaledyet。 Wewerestillinthepleasantshadeofforesttrees，wewerestillinaregionwhichwascushionedwithbeautifulmossesandaglowwiththemany-tintedlusterofinnumerablewildflowers。 Wefound，indeed，moreinterestinthewildflowersthaninanythingelse。Wegatheredaspecimenortwoofeverykindwhichwewereunacquaintedwith；sowehadsumptuousbouquets。Butoneofthechiefinterestslayinchasingtheseasonsoftheyearupthemountain，anddeterminingthembythepresenceofflowersandberrieswhichwewereacquaintedwith。Forinstance，itwastheendofAugustatthelevelofthesea； intheKanderstegvalleyatthebaseofthepass，wefoundflowerswhichwouldnotbedueatthesea-levelfortwoorthreeweeks；higherup，weenteredOctober，andgatheredfringedgentians。Imadenonotes，andhaveforgottenthedetails，buttheconstructionofthefloralcalendarwasveryentertainingwhileitlasted。 InthehighregionswefoundrichstoreofthesplendidredflowercalledtheAlpinerose，butwedidnotfindanyexamplesoftheuglySwissfavoritecalledEdelweiss。 Itsnameseemstoindicatethatitisanobleflowerandthatitiswhite。Itmaybenobleenough，butitisnotattractive，anditisnotwhite。 Thefuzzyblossomisthecolorofbadcigarashes，andappearstobemadeofacheapqualityofgrayplush。 Ithasanobleanddistantwayofconfiningitselftothehighaltitudes，butthatisprobablyonaccountofitslooks； itapparentlyhasnomonopolyofthoseupperaltitudes，however，fortheyaresometimesintrudeduponbysomeoftheloveliestofthevalleyfamiliesofwildflowers。 EverybodyintheAlpswearsasprigofEdelweissinhishat。 Itisthenative\'spet，andalsothetourist\'s。 Allthemorning，asweloafedalong，havingagoodtime，otherpedestrianswentstavingbyuswithvigorousstrides，andwiththeintentanddeterminedlookofmenwhowerewalkingforawager。Theseworelooseknee-breeches，longyarnstockings，andhobnailedhigh-lacedwalking-shoes。 TheyweregentlemenwhowouldgohometoEnglandorGermanyandtellhowmanymilestheyhadbeatentheguide-bookeveryday。ButIdoubtediftheyeverhadmuchrealfun，outsideofthemeremagnificentexhilarationofthetrampthroughthegreenvalleysandthebreezyheights； fortheywerealmostalwaysalone，andeventhefinestscenerylosesincalculablywhenthereisnoonetoenjoyitwith。 Allthemorninganendlessdoubleprocessionofmule-mountedtouristsfiledpastusalongthenarrowpath——theoneprocessiongoing，theothercoming。WehadtakenagooddealoftroubletoteachourselvesthekindlyGermancustomofsalutingallstrangerswithdoffedhat，andweresolutelyclungtoit，thatmorning，althoughitkeptusbareheadedmostofthetimeandwasnotalwaysrespondedto。Stillwefoundaninterestinthething，becausewenaturallylikedtoknowwhowereEnglishandAmericansamongthepassers-by。Allcontinentalnativesrespondedofcourse；sodidsomeoftheEnglishandAmericans，but，asageneralthing，thesetworacesgavenosign。Wheneveramanorawomanshoweduscoldneglect，wespokeupconfidentlyinourowntongueandaskedforsuchinformationaswehappenedtoneed，andwealwaysgotareplyinthesamelanguage。 TheEnglishandAmericanfolkarenotlesskindlythanotherraces，theyareonlymorereserved，andthatcomesofhabitandeducation。Inonedreary，rockywaste，awayabovethelineofvegetation，wemetaprocessionoftwenty-fivemountedyoungmen，allfromAmerica。 Wegotansweringbowsenoughfromthese，ofcourse，fortheywereofanagetolearntodoinRomeasRomedoes，withoutmucheffort。 Atoneextremityofthispatchofdesolation，overhungbybareandforbiddingcragswhichhusbandeddriftsofeverlastingsnowintheirshadedcavities，wasasmallstretchofthinanddiscouragedgrass，andamanandafamilyofpigswereactuallylivinghereinsomeshanties。 Consequentlythisplacecouldbereallyreckonedas\"property\"；ithadamoneyvalue，andwasdoubtlesstaxed。 Ithinkitmusthavemarkedthelimitofrealestateinthisworld。Itwouldbehardtosetamoneyvalueuponanypieceofearththatliesbetweenthatspotandtheemptyrealmofspace。Thatmanmayclaimthedistinctionofowningtheendoftheworld，forifthereisanydefiniteendtotheworldhehascertainlyfoundit。 Fromhereforwardwemovedthroughastorm-sweptandsmilelessdesolation。Allaboutusrosegiganticmasses，crags，andrampartsofbareanddrearyrock，withnotavestigeorsemblanceofplantortreeorfloweranywhere，orglimpseofanycreaturethathadlife。 Thefrostandthetempestsofunnumberedageshadbatteredandhackedatthesecliffs，withadeathlessenergy，destroyingthempiecemeal；soalltheregionabouttheirbaseswasatumbledchaosofgreatfragmentswhichhadbeensplitoffandhurledtotheground。 Soiledandagedbanksofsnowlaycloseaboutourpath。 TheghastlydesolationoftheplacewasastremendouslycompleteasifDor\'ehadfurnishedtheworking-plansforit。Buteverynowandthen，throughthesterngatewaysarounduswecaughtaviewofsomeneighboringmajesticdome，sheathedwithglitteringice，anddisplayingitswhitepurityatanelevationcomparedtowhichourswasgrovelingandplebeian，andthisspectaclealwayschainedone\'sinterestandadmirationatonce，andmadehimforgettherewasanythinguglyintheworld。 Ihavejustsaidthattherewasnothingbutdeathanddesolationinthesehideousplaces，butIforgot。 Inthemostforlornandaridanddismaloneofall，wheretherackedandsplintereddebriswasthickest，wheretheancientpatchesofsnowlayagainsttheverypath，wherethewindsblewbitterestandthegeneralaspectwasmournfulestanddreariest，andfurthestfromanysuggestionofcheerorhope，Ifoundasolitaryweeforget-me-notflourishingaway，notadroopaboutitanywhere，butholdingitsbrightbluestarupwiththeprettiestandgallantestairintheworld，theonlyhappyspirit，theonlysmilingthing，inallthatgrislydesert。 Sheseemedtosay，\"Cheerup!——aslongaswearehere，letusmakethebestofit。\"Ijudgedshehadearnedarighttoamorehospitableplace；soIpluckedherupandsenthertoAmericatoafriendwhowouldrespectherforthefightshehadmade，allbyhersmallself，tomakeawholevastdespondentAlpinedesolationstopbreakingitsheartovertheunalterable，andholdupitsheadandlookatthebrightsideofthingsforonce。 WestoppedforanooningatastronglybuiltlittleinncalledtheSchwarenbach。Itsitsinalonelyspotamongthepeaks，whereitissweptbythetrailingfringesofthecloud-rack，andisrainedon，andsnowedon，andpeltedandpersecutedbythestorms，nearlyeverydayofitslife。ItwastheonlyhabitationinthewholeGemmiPass。 Closeathand，now，wasachanceforablood-curdlingAlpineadventure。CloseathandwasthesnowymassoftheGreatAltelscoolingitstopknotintheskyanddaringustoanascent。Iwasfiredwiththeidea，andimmediatelymadeupmymindtoprocurethenecessaryguides，ropes，etc。，andundertakeit。IinstructedHarristogotothelandlordoftheinnandsethimaboutourpreparations。Meantime，Iwentdiligentlytoworktoreadupandfindoutwhatthismuch-talked-ofmountain-climbingwaslike，andhowoneshouldgoaboutit——forinthesemattersIwasignorant。IopenedMr。Hinchliff\'sSUMMERMONTHSAMONGTHEALPS(published1857)，andselectedhisaccountofhisascentofMonteRosa。 Itbegan: \"Itisverydifficulttofreethemindfromexcitementontheeveningbeforeagrandexpedition——\" IsawthatIwastoocalm；soIwalkedtheroomawhileandworkedmyselfintoahighexcitement；butthebook\'snextremark——thattheadventurermustgetupattwointhemorning——cameasnearasanythingtoflattingitalloutagain。However，Ireinforcedit，andreadon，abouthowMr。Hinchliffdressedbycandle-lightandwas\"soondownamongtheguides，whowerebustlingaboutinthepassage，packingprovisions，andmakingeverypreparationforthestart\"； andhowheglancedoutintothecoldclearnightandsawthat—— \"Thewholeskywasblazingwithstars，largerandbrighterthantheyappearthroughthedenseatmospherebreathedbyinhabitantsofthelowerpartsoftheearth。 Theyseemedactuallysuspendedfromthedarkvaultofheaven，andtheirgentlelightshedafairylikegleamoverthesnow-fieldsaroundthefootoftheMatterhorn，whichraiseditsstupendouspinnacleonhigh，penetratingtotheheartoftheGreatBear，andcrowningitselfwithadiademofhismagnificentstars。Notasounddisturbedthedeeptranquillityofthenight，exceptthedistantroarofstreamswhichrushfromthehighplateauoftheSt。Theoduleglacier，andfallheadlongoverprecipitousrockstilltheylosethemselvesinthemazesoftheGornerglacier。\" Hetookhishottoastandcoffee，andthenabouthalfpastthreehiscaravanoftenmenfiledawayfromtheRiffelHotel，andbeganthesteepclimb。 Athalfpastfivehehappenedtoturnaround，and\"beheldthegloriousspectacleoftheMatterhorn，justtouchedbytherosy-fingeredmorning，andlookinglikeahugepyramidoffirerisingoutofthebarrenoceanoficeandrockaroundit。\"ThentheBreithornandtheDentBlanchecaughttheradiantglow；but\"theinterveningmassofMonteRosamadeitnecessaryforustoclimbmanylonghoursbeforewecouldhopetoseethesunhimself，yetthewholeairsoongrewwarmerafterthesplendidbirthoftheday。\" HegazedattheloftycrownofMonteRosaandthewastesofsnowthatguardeditssteepapproaches，andthechiefguidedeliveredtheopinionthatnomancouldconquertheirawfulheightsandputhisfootuponthatsummit。 Buttheadventurersmovedsteadilyon，nevertheless。 Theytoiledup，andup，andstillup；theypassedtheGrandPlateau；thentoiledupasteepshoulderofthemountain，clinginglikefliestoitsruggedface； andnowtheywereconfrontedbyatremendouswallfromwhichgreatblocksoficeandsnowwereevidentlyinthehabitoffalling。Theyturnedasidetoskirtthiswall，andgraduallyascendeduntiltheirwaywasbarredbya\"mazeofgiganticsnowcrevices，\"——sotheyturnedasideagain，and\"beganalongclimbofsufficientsteepnesstomakeazigzagcoursenecessary。\" Fatiguecompelledthemtohaltfrequently，foramomentortwo。Atoneofthesehaltssomebodycalledout，\"LookatMontBlanc!\"and\"wewereatoncemadeawareoftheverygreatheightwehadattainedbyactuallyseeingthemonarchoftheAlpsandhisattendantsatellitesrightoverthetopoftheBreithorn，itselfatleast14，000feethigh!\" Thesepeoplemovedinsinglefile，andwerealltiedtoastrongrope，atregulardistancesapart，sothatifoneofthemslippedonthosegiddyheights，theotherscouldbracethemselvesontheiralpenstocksandsavehimfromdartingintothevalley，thousandsoffeetbelow。 Byandbytheycametoanice-coatedridgewhichwastiltedupatasharpangle，andhadaprecipiceononesideofit。 Theyhadtoclimbthis，sotheguideintheleadcutstepsintheicewithhishatchet，andasfastashetookhistoesoutofoneoftheseslightholes，thetoesofthemanbehindhimoccupiedit。 \"Slowlyandsteadilywekeptonourwayoverthisdangerouspartoftheascent，andIdaresayitwasfortunateforsomeofusthatattentionwasdistractedfromtheheadbytheparamountnecessityoflookingafterthefeet； FOR，WHILEONTHELEFTTHEINCLINEOFICEWASSOSTEEP THATITWOULDBEIMPOSSIBLEFORANYMANTOSAVEHIMSELF INCASEOFASLIP，UNLESSTHEOTHERSCOULDHOLDHIMUP，ONTHERIGHTWEMIGHTDROPAPEBBLEFROMTHEHANDOVER PRECIPICESOFUNKNOWNEXTENTDOWNUPONTHETREMENDOUS GLACIERBELOW。 \"Greatcaution，therefore，wasabsolutelynecessary，andinthisexposedsituationwewereattackedbyallthefuryofthatgrandenemyofaspirantstoMonteRosa——asevereandbitterlycoldwindfromthenorth。 Thefinepowderysnowwasdrivenpastusintheclouds，penetratingtheintersticesofourclothes，andthepiecesoficewhichflewfromtheblowsofPeter\'saxwerewhiskedintotheair，andthendashedovertheprecipice。 Wehadquiteenoughtodotopreventourselvesfrombeingservedinthesameruthlessfashion，andnowandthen，inthemoreviolentgustsofwind，weregladtostickouralpenstocksintotheiceandholdonhard。\" Havingsurmountedthisperiloussteep，theysatdownandtookabriefrestwiththeirbacksagainstashelteringrockandtheirheelsdanglingoverabottomlessabyss； thentheyclimbedtothebaseofanotherridge——amoredifficultanddangerousonestill: \"Thewholeoftheridgewasexceedinglynarrow，andthefalloneachsidedesperatelysteep，buttheiceinsomeoftheseintervalsbetweenthemassesofrockassumedtheformofameresharpedge，almostlikeaknife； theseplaces，thoughnotmorethanthreeorfourshortpacesinlength，lookeduncommonlyawkward；but，liketheswordleadingtruebelieverstothegatesofParadise，theymustneedsbepassedbeforewecouldattaintothesummitofourambition。Thesewereinoneortwoplacessonarrow，thatinsteppingoverthemwithtoeswellturnedoutforgreatersecurity，ONEENDOFTHE FOOTPROJECTEDOVERTHEAWFULPRECIPICEONTHERIGHT，WHILETHEOTHERWASONTHEBEGINNINGOFTHEICESLOPEON THELEFT，WHICHWASSCARCELYLESSSTEEPTHANTHEROCKS。 OntheseoccasionsPeterwouldtakemyhand，andeachofusstretchingasfaraswecould，hewasthusenabledtogetafirmfootingtwopacesorrathermorefromme，whenceaspringwouldprobablybringhimtotherockontheotherside；then，turningaround，hecalledtometocome，and，takingacoupleofstepscarefully，Iwasmetatthethirdbyhisoutstretchedhandreadytoclaspmine，andinamomentstoodbyhisside。 Theothersfollowedinmuchthesamefashion。Oncemyrightfootslippedonthesidetowardtheprecipice，butIthrewoutmyleftarminamomentsothatitcaughttheicyedgeundermyarmpitasIfell，andsupportedmeconsiderably；atthesameinstantIcastmyeyesdownthesideonwhichIhadslipped，andcontrivedtoplantmyrightfootonapieceofrockaslargeasacricket-ball，whichchancedtoprotrudethroughtheice，ontheveryedgeoftheprecipice。Beingthusanchoredforeandaft，asitwere，IbelieveIcouldeasilyhaverecoveredmyself，evenifIhadbeenalone，thoughitmustbeconfessedthesituationwouldhavebeenanawfulone； asitwas，however，ajerkfromPetersettledthematterverysoon，andIwasonmylegsallrightinaninstant。 Theropeisanimmensehelpinplacesofthiskind。\" Nowtheyarrivedatthebaseofagreatknobordomeveneeredwithiceandpowderedwithsnow——theutmost，summit，thelastbitofsoliditybetweenthemandthehollowvaultofheaven。Theysettoworkwiththeirhatchets，andweresooncreeping，insectlike，upitssurface，withtheirheelsprojectingoverthethinnestkindofnothingness，thickenedupalittlewithafewwanderingshredsandfilmsofcloudmovinginalazyprocessionfarbelow。 Presently，oneman\'stoe-holdbrokeandhefell!Therehedangledinmid-airattheendoftherope，likeaspider，tillhisfriendsabovehauledhimintoplaceagain。 Alittlebitlater，thepartystoodupontheweepedestaloftheverysummit，inadrivingwind，andlookedoutuponthevastgreenexpansesofItalyandashorelessoceanofbillowyAlps。 WhenIhadreadthusfar，Harrisbrokeintotheroominanobleexcitementandsaidtheropesandtheguidesweresecured，andaskedifIwasready。IsaidI believedIwouldn\'tascendtheAltelsthistime。 IsaidAlp-climbingwasadifferentthingfromwhatIhadsupposeditwas，andsoIjudgedwehadbetterstudyitspointsalittlemorebeforewewentdefinitelyintoit。 ButItoldhimtoretaintheguidesandorderthemtofollowustoZermatt，becauseImeanttousethemthere。 IsaidIcouldfeelthespiritofadventurebeginningtostirinme，andwassurethatthefellfascinationofAlp-climbingwouldsoonbeuponme。Isaidhecouldmakeuphismindtoitthatwewoulddoadeedbeforewewereaweekolderwhichwouldmakethehairofthetimidcurlwithfright。 ThismadeHarrishappy，andfilledhimwithambitiousanticipations。HewentatoncetotelltheguidestofollowustoZermattandbringalltheirparaphernaliawiththem。 CHAPTERXXXV [SwindlingtheCoroner] Agreatandpricelessthingisanewinterest!Howittakespossessionofaman!howitclingstohim，howitrideshim!IstrodeonwardfromtheSchwarenbackhostelryachangedman，areorganizedpersonality。 Iwalkedintoanewworld，Isawwithneweyes。 Ihadbeenlookingaloftatthegiantshow-peaksonlyasthingstobeworshipedfortheirgrandeurandmagnitude，andtheirunspeakablegraceofform；Ilookedupatthemnow，asalsothingstobeconqueredandclimbed。 Mysenseoftheirgrandeurandtheirnoblebeautywasneitherlostnorimpaired；Ihadgainedanewinterestinthemountainswithoutlosingtheoldones。 Ifollowedthesteeplinesup，inchbyinch，withmyeye，andnotedthepossibilityorimpossibilityoffollowingthemwithmyfeet。WhenIsawashininghelmetoficeprojectingabovetheclouds，ItriedtoimagineIsawfilesofblackspeckstoilingupitropedtogetherwithagossamerthread。 WeskirtedthelonelylittlelakecalledtheDaubensee，andpresentlypassedclosebyaglacierontheright—— athinglikeagreatriverfrozensolidinitsflowandbrokensquareofflikeawallatitsmouth。 Ihadneverbeensonearaglacierbefore。 Herewecameuponanewboardshanty，andfoundsomemenengagedinbuildingastonehouse；sotheSchwarenbackwassoontohavearival。Weboughtabottleorsoofbeerhere； atanyratetheycalleditbeer，butIknewbythepricethatitwasdissolvedjewelry，andIperceivedbythetastethatdissolvedjewelryisnotgoodstufftodrink。 Weweresurroundedbyahideousdesolation。Westeppedforwardtoasortofjumping-offplace，andwereconfrontedbyastartlingcontrast:weseemedtolookdownintofairyland。 Twoorthreethousandfeetbelowuswasabrightgreenlevel，withaprettytowninitsmidst，andasilverystreamwindingamongthemeadows；thecharmingspotwaswalledinonallsidesbygiganticprecipicesclothedwithpines； andoverthepines，outofthesofteneddistances，rosethesnowydomesandpeaksoftheMonteRosaregion。 Howexquisitelygreenandbeautifulthatlittlevalleydowntherewas!Thedistancewasnotgreatenoughtoobliteratedetails，itonlymadethemlittle，andmellow，anddainty，likelandscapesandtownsseenthroughthewrongendofaspy-glass。 Rightunderusanarrowledgeroseupoutofthevalley，withagreen，slanting，bench-shapedtop，andgroupedaboutuponthisgreen-baizebenchwerealotofblackandwhitesheepwhichlookedmerelylikeoversizedworms。 Thebenchseemedliftedwellupintoourneighborhood，butthatwasadeception——itwasalongwaydowntoit。 Webeganourdescent，now，bythemostremarkableroadI haveeverseen。Itwounditcorkscrewcurvesdownthefaceofthecolossalprecipice——anarrowway，withalwaysthesolidrockwallatoneelbow，andperpendicularnothingnessattheother。Wemetaneverlastingprocessionofguides，porters，mules，litters，andtouristsclimbingupthissteepandmuddypath，andtherewasnoroomtosparewhenyouhadtopassatolerablyfatmule。 Ialwaystooktheinside，whenIheardorsawthemulecoming，andflattenedmyselfagainstthewall。 Ipreferredtheinside，ofcourse，butIshouldhavehadtotakeitanyhow，becausethemulepreferstheoutside。 Amule\'spreference——onaprecipice——isathingtoberespected。Well，hischoiceisalwaystheoutside。 Hislifeismostlydevotedtocarryingbulkypanniersandpackageswhichrestagainsthisbody——thereforeheishabituatedtotakingtheoutsideedgeofmountainpaths，tokeephisbundlesfromrubbingagainstrocksorbanksontheother。Whenhegoesintothepassengerbusinessheabsurdlyclingstohisoldhabit，andkeepsonelegofhispassengeralwaysdanglingoverthegreatdeepsofthelowerworldwhilethatpassenger\'sheartisinthehighlands，sotospeak。MorethanonceIsawamule\'shindfootcaveovertheouteredgeandsendearthandrubbishintothebottomabyss；andInoticedthatupontheseoccasionstherider，whethermaleorfemale，lookedtolerablyunwell。 Therewasoneplacewhereaneighteen-inchbreadthoflightmasonryhadbeenaddedtothevergeofthepath，andastherewasaverysharpturnhere，apaneloffencinghadbeensetupthereatsometime，asaprotection。 Thispanelwasoldandgrayandfeeble，andthelightmasonryhadbeenloosenedbyrecentrains。AyoungAmericangirlcamealongonamule，andinmakingtheturnthemule\'shindfootcavedalltheloosemasonryandoneofthefence-postsoverboard；themulegaveaviolentlurchinboardtosavehimself，andsucceededintheeffort，butthatgirlturnedaswhiteasthesnowsofMontBlancforamoment。 Thepathwassimplyagroovecutintothefaceoftheprecipice；therewasafour-footbreadthofsolidrockunderthetraveler，andfour-footbreadthofsolidrockjustabovehishead，liketheroofofanarrowporch； hecouldlookoutfromthisgalleryandseeasheersummitlessandbottomlesswallofrockbeforehim，acrossagorgeorcrackabiscuit\'stossinwidth—— buthecouldnotseethebottomofhisownprecipiceunlesshelaydownandprojectedhisnoseovertheedge。 Ididnotdothis，becauseIdidnotwishtosoilmyclothes。 Everyfewhundredyards，atparticularlybadplaces，onecameacrossapanelorsoofplankfencing；buttheywerealwaysoldandweak，andtheygenerallyleanedoutoverthechasmanddidnotmakeanyrashpromisestoholduppeoplewhomightneedsupport。Therewasoneofthesepanelswhichhadonlyitsupperboardleft； apedestrianizingEnglishyouthcametearingdownthepath，wasseizedwithanimpulsetolookovertheprecipice，andwithoutaninstant\'sthoughthethrewhisweightuponthatcrazyboard。Itbentoutwardafoot!Inevermadeagaspbeforethatcamesonearsuffocatingme。 TheEnglishyouth\'sfacesimplyshowedalivelysurprise，butnothingmore。Hewentswingingalongvalleywardagain，asifhedidnotknowhehadjustswindledacoronerbytheclosestkindofashave。