第13章

Whenwehadgoneabouttwohundredyards，andstoppedtorest，IglancedtotheleftwhileIwaslightingmypipe，andinthedistancedetectedalongwormofblacksmokecrawlinglazilyupthesteepmountain。Ofcoursethatwasthelocomotive。Weproppedourselvesonourelbowsatonce，togaze，forwehadneverseenamountainrailwayyet。 Presentlywecouldmakeoutthetrain。Itseemedincrediblethatthatthingshouldcreepstraightupasharpslantliketheroofofahouse——butthereitwas，anditwasdoingthatverymiracle。 Inthecourseofacouplehourswereachedafinebreezyaltitudewherethelittleshepherdhutshadbigstonesallovertheirroofstoholdthemdowntotheearthwhenthegreatstormsrage。Thecountrywaswildandrockyabouthere，buttherewereplentyoftrees，plentyofmoss，andgrass。 Awayoffontheoppositeshoreofthelakewecouldseesomevillages，andnowforthefirsttimewecouldobservetherealdifferencebetweentheirproportionsandthoseofthegiantmountainsatwhosefeettheyslept。 Whenoneisinoneofthosevillagesitseemsspacious，anditshousesseemhighandnotoutofproportiontothemountainthatoverhandsthem——butfromouraltitude，whatachange!Themountainswerebiggerandgranderthanever，astheystoodtherethinkingtheirsolemnthoughtswiththeirheadsinthedriftingclouds，butthevillagesattheirfeet——whenthepainstakingeyecouldtracethemupandfindthem——weresoreduced，almostinvisible，andlaysoflatagainsttheground，thattheexactestsimileIcandeviseistocomparethemtoant-depositsofgranulateddirtovershadowedbythehugebulkofacathedral。Thesteamboatsskimmingalongunderthestupendousprecipiceswerediminishedbydistancetothedaintiestlittletoys，thesailboatsandrowboatstoshallopsproperforfairiesthatkeephouseinthecupsofliliesandridetocourtonthebacksofbumblebees。 Presentlywecameuponhalfadozensheepnibblinggrassinthesprayofastreamofclearwaterthatsprangfromarockwallahundredfeethigh，andallatonceourearswerestartledwithamelodious\"Lul…… l……lllllul-lul-LAhee-o-o-o!\"pealingjoyouslyfromanearbutinvisiblesource，andrecognizedthatwewerehearingforthefirsttimethefamousAlpineJODEL initsownnativewilds。Andwerecognized，also，thatitwasthatsortofquaintcomminglingofbaritoneandfalsettowhichathomewecall\"Tyrolesewarbling。\" Thejodeling(pronouncedyOdling——emphasisontheO) continued，andwasverypleasantandinspiritingtohear。 Nowthejodelerappeared——ashepherdboyofsixteen—— andinourgladnessandgratitudewegavehimafranctojodelsomemore。Sohejodeledandwelistened。 Wemovedon，presently，andhegenerouslyjodeledusoutofsight。Afteraboutfifteenminuteswecameacrossanothershepherdboywhowasjodeling，andgavehimhalfafranctokeepitup。Healsojodeledusoutofsight。 Afterthat，wefoundajodelereverytenminutes； wegavethefirstoneeightcents，thesecondonesixcents，thethirdonefour，thefourthoneapenny，contributednothingtoNos。5，6，and7，andduringtheremainderofthedayhiredtherestofthejodelers，atafrancapiece，nottojodelanymore。ThereissomewhattoomuchofthejodelingintheAlps。 AboutthemiddleoftheafternoonwepassedthroughaprodigiousnaturalgatewaycalledtheFelsenthor，formedbytwoenormousuprightrocks，withathirdlyingacrossthetop。Therewasaveryattractivelittlehotelcloseby，butourenergieswerenotconqueredyet，sowewenton。 Threehoursafterwardwecametotherailway-track。Itwasplantedstraightupthemountainwiththeslantofaladderthatleansagainstahouse，anditseemedtousthatmanwouldneedgoodnerveswhoproposedtotravelupitordowniteither。 Duringthelatterpartoftheafternoonwecooledourroastinginteriorswithice-coldwaterfromclearstreams，theonlyreallysatisfyingwaterwehadtastedsincewelefthome，foratthehotelsonthecontinenttheymerelygiveyouatumbleroficetosoakyourwaterin，andthatonlymodifiesitshotness，doesn\'tmakeitcold。 Watercanonlybemadecoldenoughforsummercomfortbybeingpreparedinarefrigeratororaclosedice-pitcher。 Europeanssayice-waterimpairsdigestion。Howdotheyknow?——theyneverdrinkany。 AttenminutespastsixwereachedtheKaltbadstation，wherethereisaspacioushotelwithgreatverandaswhichcommandamajesticexpanseoflakeandmountainscenery。 Wewereprettywellfaggedout，now，butaswedidnotwishtomisstheAlpinesunrise，wegotthroughourdinnerasquicklyaspossibleandhurriedofftobed。 Itwasunspeakablycomfortabletostretchourwearylimbsbetweenthecool，dampsheets。Andhowwedidsleep!——forthereisnoopiatelikeAlpinepedestrianism。 Inthemorningwebothawokeandleapedoutofbedatthesameinstantandranandstrippedasidethewindow-curtains； butwesufferedabitterdisappointmentagain:itwasalreadyhalfpastthreeintheafternoon。 Wedressedsullenlyandinillspirits，eachaccusingtheotherofoversleeping。Harrissaidifwehadbroughtthecourieralong，asweoughttohavedone，weshouldnothavemissedthesesunrises。Isaidheknewverywellthatoneofuswouldhavetositupandwakethecourier； andIaddedthatwewerehavingtroubleenoughtotakecareofourselves，onthisclimb，withouthavingtotakecareofacourierbesides。 Duringbreakfastourspiritscameupalittle，sincewefoundbythisguide-bookthatinthehotelsonthesummitthetouristisnotlefttotrusttoluckforhissunrise，butisrousedbetimesbyamanwhogoesthroughthehallswithagreatAlpinehorn，blowingblaststhatwouldraisethedead。Andtherewasanotherconsolingthing: theguide-booksaidthatupthereonthesummittheguestsdidnotwaittodressmuch，butseizedaredbedblanketandsailedoutarrayedlikeanIndian。Thiswasgood； thiswouldberomantic；twohundredandfiftypeoplegroupedonthewindysummit，withtheirhairflyingandtheirredblanketsflapping，inthesolemnpresenceofthecomingsun，wouldbeastrikingandmemorablespectacle。 Soitwasgoodluck，notillluck，thatwehadmissedthoseothersunrises。 Wewereinformedbytheguide-bookthatwewerenow3，228feetabovethelevelofthelake——thereforefulltwo-thirdsofourjourneyhadbeenaccomplished。 Wegotawayataquarterpastfour，P。M。；ahundredyardsabovethehoteltherailwaydivided；onetrackwentstraightupthesteephill，theotheroneturnedsquareofftotheright，withaveryslightgrade。Wetookthelatter，andfolloweditmorethanamile，turnedarockycorner，andcameinsightofahandsomenewhotel。 Ifwehadgoneon，weshouldhavearrivedatthesummit，butHarrispreferredtoaskalotofquestions——asusual，ofamanwhodidn\'tknowanything——andhetoldustogobackandfollowtheotherroute。Wedidso。Wecouldillaffordthislossoftime。 Weclimbedandclimbed；andwekeptonclimbing；wereachedaboutfortysummits，buttherewasalwaysanotheronejustahead。 Itcameontorain，anditrainedindeadearnest。 Weweresoakedthroughanditwasbittercold。Nextasmokyfogofcloudscoveredthewholeregiondensely，andwetooktotherailway-tiestokeepfromgettinglost。 Sometimeswesloppedalonginanarrowpathontheleft-handsideofthetrack，butbyandbywhenthefogblewasasidealittleandwesawthatweweretreadingtherampartofaprecipiceandthatourleftelbowswereprojectingoveraperfectlyboundlessandbottomlessvacancy，wegasped，andjumpedforthetiesagain。 Thenightshutdown，darkanddrizzlyandcold。 Abouteightintheeveningthefogliftedandshowedusawell-wornpathwhichledupaverysteeprisetotheleft。 Wetookit，andassoonaswehadgotfarenoughfromtherailwaytorenderthefindingitagainanimpossibility，thefogshutdownonusoncemore。 Wewereinableak，unshelteredplace，now，andhadtotrudgerightalong，inordertokeepwarm，thoughweratherexpectedtogooveraprecipice，soonerorlater。 Aboutnineo\'clockwemadeanimportantdiscovery—— thatwewerenotinanypath。Wegropedaroundawhileonourhandsandknees，butwecouldnotfindit； sowesatdowninthemudandthewetscantgrasstowait。 Wewereterrifiedintothisbybeingsuddenlyconfrontedwithavastbodywhichshoweditselfvaguelyforaninstantandinthenextinstantwassmotheredinthefogagain。 Itwasreallythehotelwewereafter，monstrouslymagnifiedbythefog，butwetookitforthefaceofaprecipice，anddecidednottotrytoclawupit。 Wesatthereanhour，withchatteringteethandquiveringbodies，andquarreledoverallsortsoftrifles，butgavemostofourattentiontoabusingeachotherforthestupidityofdesertingtherailway-track。Wesatwithourbackstotheprecipice，becausewhatlittlewindtherewascamefromthatquarter。Atsometimeorotherthefogthinnedalittle；wedidnotknowwhen，forwewerefacingtheemptyuniverseandthethinnesscouldnotshow； butatlastHarrishappenedtolookaround，andtherestoodahuge，dim，spectralhotelwheretheprecipicehadbeen。 Onecouldfaintlydiscernthewindowsandchimneys，andadullbluroflights。Ourfirstemotionwasdeep，unutterablegratitude，ournextwasafoolishrage，bornofthesuspicionthatpossiblythehotelhadbeenvisiblethree-quartersofanhourwhilewesatthereinthosecoldpuddlesquarreling。 Yes，itwastheRigi-Kulmhotel——theonethatoccupiestheextremesummit，andwhoseremotelittlesparkleoflightswehadoftenseenglintinghighaloftamongthestarsfromourbalconyawaydownyonderinLucerne。 Thecrustyportierandthecrustyclerksgaveusthesurlyreceptionwhichtheirkinddealoutinprosperoustimes，butbymollifyingthemwithanextradisplayofobsequiousnessandservilitywefinallygotthemtoshowustotheroomwhichourboyhadengagedforus。 Wegotintosomedryclothing，andwhileoursupperwaspreparingweloafedforsakenlythroughacoupleofvastcavernousdrawing-rooms，oneofwhichhadastoveinit。 Thisstovewasinacorner，anddenselywalledaroundwithpeople。Wecouldnotgetnearthefire，sowemovedatlargeinthearticspaces，amongamultitudeofpeoplewhosatsilent，smileless，forlorn，andshivering——thinkingwhatfoolstheyweretocome，perhaps。ThereweresomeAmericansandsomeGermans，butonecouldseethatthegreatmajoritywereEnglish。 Weloungedintoanapartmentwheretherewasagreatcrowd，toseewhatwasgoingon。Itwasamemento-magazine。 Thetouristswereeagerlybuyingallsortsandstylesofpaper-cutters，marked\"SouveniroftheRigi，\"withhandlesmadeofthelittlecurvedhornoftheostensiblechamois； therewereallmannerofwoodengobletsandsuchthings，similarlymarked。Iwasgoingtobuyapaper-cutter，butI believedIcouldrememberthecoldcomfortoftheRigi-Kulmwithoutit，soIsmotheredtheimpulse。 Supperwarmedus，andwewentimmediatelytobed——butfirst，asMr。Baedekerrequestsalltouriststocallhisattentiontoanyerrorswhichtheymayfindinhisguide-books，I droppedhimalinetoinformhimhemisseditbyjustaboutthreedays。IhadpreviouslyinformedhimofhismistakeaboutthedistancefromAllerheiligentoOppenau，andhadalsoinformedtheOrdnanceDepartoftheGermangovernmentofthesameerrorintheimperialmaps。 Iwilladd，here，thatInevergotanyanswertothoseletters，oranythanksfromeitherofthosesources；and，whatisstillmorediscourteous，thesecorrectionshavenotbeenmade，eitherinthemapsortheguide-books。ButIwillwriteagainwhenIgettime，formylettersmayhavemiscarried。 Wecurledupintheclammybeds，andwenttosleepwithoutrocking。 WeweresosoddenwithfatiguethatweneverstirrednorturnedovertillthebloomingblastsoftheAlpinehornarousedus。Itmaywellbeimaginedthatwedidnotloseanytime。Wesnatchedonafewoddsandendsofclothing，cocoonedourselvesintheproperredblankets，andplungedalongthehallsandoutintothewhistlingwindbareheaded。 Wesawatallwoodenscaffoldingontheverypeakofthesummit，ahundredyardsaway，andmadeforit。 Werushedupthestairstothetopofthisscaffolding，andstoodthere，abovethevastoutlyingworld，withhairflyingandruddyblanketswavingandcrackinginthefiercebreeze。 \"Fifteenminutestoolate，atlast!\"saidHarris，inavexedvoice。\"Thesunisclearabovethehorizon。\" \"Nomatter，\"Isaid，\"itisamostmagnificentspectacle，andwewillseeitdotherestofitsrisinganyway。\" Inamomentweweredeeplyabsorbedinthemarvelbeforeus，anddeadtoeverythingelse。Thegreatcloud-barreddiskofthesunstoodjustabovealimitlessexpanseoftossingwhite-caps——sotospeak——abillowychaosofmassymountaindomesandpeaksdrapedinimperishablesnow，andfloodedwithanopalinegloryofchanginganddissolvingsplendors，whilethroughriftsinablackcloud-bankabovethesun，radiatinglancesofdiamonddustshottothezenith。 Theclovenvalleysofthelowerworldswaminatintedmistwhichveiledtheruggednessoftheircragsandribsandraggedforests，andturnedalltheforbiddingregionintoasoftandrichandsensuousparadise。 Wecouldnotspeak。Wecouldhardlybreathe。 Wecouldonlygazeindrunkenecstasyanddrinkinit。 PresentlyHarrisexclaimed: \"Why——nation，it\'sgoingDOWN!\" Perfectlytrue。WehadmissedtheMORNINGhornblow，andsleptallday。Thiswasstupefying。 Harrissaid: \"Lookhere，thesunisn\'tthespectacle——it\'sUS——stackeduphereontopofthisgallows，intheseidioticblankets，andtwohundredandfiftywell-dressedmenandwomendownheregawkingupatusandnotcaringastrawwhetherthesunrisesorsets，aslongasthey\'vegotsucharidiculousspectacleasthistosetdownintheirmemorandum-books。 Theyseemtobelaughingtheirribsloose，andthere\'sonegirlthereatappearstobegoingalltopieces。 Ineversawsuchamanasyoubefore。Ithinkyouaretheverylastpossibilityinthewayofanass。\" \"Whathave_I_done?\"Ianswered，withheat。 \"Whathaveyoudone?\"You\'vegotupathalfpastseveno\'clockintheeveningtoseethesunrise，that\'swhatyou\'vedone。\" \"Andhaveyoudoneanybetter，I\'dliketoknow?I\'vealwaysusedtogetupwiththelark，tillIcameunderthepetrifyinginfluenceofyourturgidintellect。\" \"YOUusedtogetupwiththelark——Oh，nodoubt—— you\'llgetupwiththehangmanoneofthesedays。 Butyououghttobeashamedtobejawingherelikethis，inaredblanket，onaforty-footscaffoldontopoftheAlps。Andnoendofpeopledownheretoboot； thisisn\'tanyplaceforanexhibitionoftemper。\" Andsothecustomaryquarrelwenton。Whenthesunwasfairlydown，weslippedbacktothehotelinthecharitablegloaming，andwenttobedagain。Wehadencounteredthehorn-blowerontheway，andhehadtriedtocollectcompensation，notonlyforannouncingthesunset，whichwedidsee，butforthesunrise，whichwehadtotallymissed；butwesaidno，weonlytookoursolarrationsonthe\"Europeanplan\"——payforwhatyouget。 Hepromisedtomakeushearhishorninthemorning，ifwewerealive。 CHAPTERXXIX [LookingWestforSunrise] Hekepthisword。Weheardhishornandinstantlygotup。 Itwasdarkandcoldandwretched。AsIfumbledaroundforthematches，knockingthingsdownwithmyquakinghands，Iwishedthesunwouldriseinthemiddleoftheday，whenitwaswarmandbrightandcheerful，andonewasn\'tsleepy。Weproceededtodressbythegloomofacouplesicklycandles，butwecouldhardlybuttonanything，ourhandsshookso。IthoughtofhowmanyhappypeopletherewereinEurope，Asia，andAmerica，andeverywhere，whoweresleepingpeacefullyintheirbeds，anddidnothavetogetupandseetheRigisunrise——peoplewhodidnotappreciatetheiradvantage，aslikeasnot，butwouldgetupinthemorningwantingmoreboonsofProvidence。 WhilethinkingthesethoughtsIyawned，inaratherampleway，andmyupperteethgothitchedonanailoverthedoor，andwhileIwasmountingachairtofreemyself，Harrisdrewthewindow-curtain，andsaid: \"Oh，thisisluck!Weshan\'thavetogooutatall—— yonderarethemountains，infullview。\" Thatwasgladnews，indeed。Itmadeuscheerfulrightaway。 OnecouldseethegrandAlpinemassesdimlyoutlinedagainsttheblackfirmament，andoneortwofaintstarsblinkingthroughriftsinthenight。Fullyclothed，andwrappedinblankets，andhuddledourselvesup，bythewindow，withlightedpipes，andfellintochat，whilewewaitedinexceedingcomforttoseehowanAlpinesunrisewasgoingtolookbycandlelight。Byandbyadelicate，spiritualsortofeffulgencespreaditselfbyimperceptibledegreesovertheloftiestaltitudesofthesnowywastes——buttheretheeffortseemedtostop。 Isaid，presently: \"Thereisahitchaboutthissunrisesomewhere。 Itdoesn\'tseemtogo。Whatdoyoureckonisthematterwithit?\" \"Idon\'tknow。Itappearstohangfiresomewhere。 Ineversawasunriseactlikethatbefore。Canitbethatthehotelisplayinganythingonus?\" \"Ofcoursenot。Thehotelmerelyhasapropertyinterestinthesun，ithasnothingtodowiththemanagementofit。 Itisaprecariouskindofproperty，too；asuccessionoftotaleclipseswouldprobablyruinthistavern。 Nowwhatcanbethematterwiththissunrise?\" Harrisjumpedupandsaid: \"I\'vegotit!Iknowwhat\'sthematterwithit!We\'vebeenlookingattheplacewherethesunSETlastnight!\" \"Itisperfectlytrue!Whycouldn\'tyouhavethoughtofthatsooner?Nowwe\'velostanotherone!Andallthroughyourblundering。Itwasexactlylikeyoutolightapipeandsitdowntowaitforthesuntoriseinthewest。\" \"Itwasexactlylikemetofindoutthemistake，too。 Youneverwouldhavefounditout。Ifindoutallthemistakes。\" \"Youmakethemall，too，elseyourmostvaluablefacultywouldbewastedonyou。Butdon\'tstoptoquarrel，now——maybewearenottoolateyet。\" Butwewere。Thesunwaswellupwhenwegottotheexhibition-ground。 Onourwayupwemetthecrowdreturning——menandwomendressedinallsortsofqueercostumes，andexhibitingalldegreesofcoldandwretchednessintheirgaitsandcountenances。Adozenstillremainedonthegroundwhenwereachedthere，huddledtogetheraboutthescaffoldwiththeirbackstothebitterwind。Theyhadtheirredguide-booksopenatthediagramoftheview，andwerepainfullypickingouttheseveralmountainsandtryingtoimpresstheirnamesandpositionsontheirmemories。 ItwasoneofthesaddestsightsIeversaw。 Twosidesofthisplacewereguardedbyrailings，tokeeppeoplefrombeingblownovertheprecipices。 Theview，lookingsheerdownintothebroadvalley，eastward，fromthisgreatelevation——almostaperpendicularmile——wasveryquaintandcurious。Counties，towns，hillyribsandridges，widestretchesofgreenmeadow，greatforesttracts，windingstreams，adozenbluelakes，ablockofbusysteamboats——wesawallthislittleworldinuniquecircumstantialityofdetail——sawitjustasthebirdsseeit——andallreducedtothesmallestofscalesandassharplyworkedoutandfinishedasasteelengraving。Thenumeroustoyvillages，withtinyspiresprojectingoutofthem，werejustasthechildrenmighthaveleftthemwhendonewithplaythedaybefore； theforesttractswerediminishedtocushionsofmoss； oneortwobiglakesweredwarfedtoponds，thesmalleronestopuddles——thoughtheydidnotlooklikepuddles，butlikeblueeardropswhichhadfallenandlodgedinslightdepressions，conformabletotheirshapes，amongthemoss-bedsandthesmoothlevelsofdaintygreenfarm-land；themicroscopicsteamboatsglidedalong，asinacityreservoir，takingamightytimetocoverthedistancebetweenportswhichseemedonlyayardapart； andtheisthmuswhichseparatedtwolakeslookedasifonemightstretchoutonitandliewithbothelbowsinthewater，yetweknewinvisiblewagonsweretoilingacrossitandfindingthedistanceatediousone。 Thisbeautifulminiatureworldhadexactlytheappearanceofthose\"reliefmaps\"whichreproducenatureprecisely，withtheheightsanddepressionsandotherdetailsgraduatedtoareducedscale，andwiththerocks，trees，lakes，etc。，coloredafternature。 IbelievedwecouldwalkdowntoWa\"ggisorVitznauinaday，butIknewwecouldgodownbyrailinaboutanhour，soIchosethelattermethod。Iwantedtoseewhatitwaslike，anyway。Thetraincamealongaboutthemiddleoftheafternoon，andanoddthingitwas。 Thelocomotive-boilerstoodonend，anditandthewholelocomotive-boilerstoodonend，anditandthewholelocomotiveweretiledsharplybackward。Thereweretwopassenger-cars，roofed，butwideopenallaround。 Thesecarswerenottiltedback，buttheseatswere； thisenablesthepassengertositlevelwhilegoingdownasteepincline。 Therearethreerailway-tracks；thecentraloneiscogged； the\"lanternwheel\"oftheenginegripsitswayalongthesecogs，andpullsthetrainupthehillorretardsitsmotiononthedowntrip。Aboutthesamespeed——threemilesanhour——ismaintainedbothways。Whethergoingupordown，thelocomotiveisalwaysatthelowerendofthetrain。 Itpushesintheonecase，bracesbackintheother。 Thepassengerridesbackwardgoingup，andfacesforwardgoingdown。 Wegotfrontseats，andwhilethetrainmovedalongaboutfiftyyardsonlevelground，Iwasnottheleastfrightened；butnowitstartedabruptlydownstairs，andIcaughtmybreath。AndI，likemyneighbors，unconsciouslyheldbackallIcould，andthrewmyweighttotherear，but，ofcourse，thatdidnoparticulargood。 IhadsliddendownthebalusterswhenIwasaboy，andthoughtnothingofit，buttoslidedownthebalustersinarailway-trainisathingtomakeone\'sfleshcreep。 Sometimeswehadasmuchastenyardsofalmostlevelground，andthisgaveusafewfullbreathsincomfort； butstraightwaywewouldturnacornerandseealongsteeplineofrailsstretchingdownbelowus，andthecomfortwasatanend。Oneexpectedtoseethelocomotivepause，orslackupalittle，andapproachthisplungecautiously，butitdidnothingofthekind；itwentcalmlyon，andwentitreachedthejumping-offplaceitmadeasuddenbow，andwentglidingsmoothlydownstairs，untroubledbythecircumstances。 Itwaswildlyexhilaratingtoslidealongtheedgeoftheprecipices，afterthisgrislyfashion，andlookstraightdownuponthatfar-offvalleywhichIwasdescribingawhileago。 TherewasnolevelgroundattheKaltbadstation； therailbedwasassteepasaroof；Iwascurioustoseehowthestopwasgoingtobemanaged。 Butitwasverysimple；thetraincameslidingdown，andwhenitreachedtherightspotitjuststopped——thatwasalltherewas\"toit\"——stoppedonthesteepincline，andwhentheexchangeofpassengersandbaggagehadbeenmade，itmovedoffandwentslidingdownagain。 Thetraincanbestoppedanywhere，atamoment\'snotice。 Therewasonecuriouseffect，whichIneednottakethetroubletodescribe——becauseIcanscissoradescriptionofitoutoftherailwaycompany\'sadvertisingpamphlet，andsaymyink: \"Onthewholetour，particularlyattheDescent，weundergoanopticalillusionwhichoftenseemstobeincredible。 Alltheshrubs，firtrees，stables，houses，etc。，seemtobebentinaslantingdirection，asbyanimmensepressureofair。 Theyareallstandingawry，somuchawrythatthechaletsandcottagesofthepeasantsseemtobetumblingdown。 Itistheconsequenceofthesteepinclinationoftheline。 Thosewhoareseatedinthecarriagedonotobservethattheyaredoingdownadeclivityoftwentytotwenty-fivedegrees(theirseatsbeingadaptedtothiscourseofproceedingandbeingbentdownattheirbacks)。Theymistaketheircarriageanditshorizontallinesforapropermeasureofthenormalplain，andthereforealltheobjectsoutsidewhichreallyareinahorizontalpositionmustshowadisproportionoftwentytotwenty-fivedegreesdeclivity，inregardtothemountain。\" BythetimeonereachesKaltbad，hehasacquiredconfidenceintherailway，andhenowceasestotrytoeasethelocomotivebyholdingback。Thenceforthhesmokeshispipeinserenity，andgazesoutuponthemagnificentpicturebelowandabouthimwithunfetteredenjoyment。 Thereisnothingtointerruptthevieworthebreeze； itislikeinspectingtheworldonthewing。However——tobeexact——thereisoneplacewheretheserenitylapsesforawhile； thisiswhileoneiscrossingtheSchnurrtobelBridge，afrailstructurewhichswingsitsgossamerframedownthroughthedizzyair，overagorge，likeavagrantspider-strand。 Onehasnodifficultyinrememberinghissinswhilethetrainiscreepingdownthisbridge；andherepentsofthem，too；thoughhesees，whenhegetstoVitznau，thatheneednothavedoneit，thebridgewasperfectlysafe。 SoendstheeventualtripwhichwemadetotheRigi-KulmtoseeanAlpinesunrise。 CHAPTERXXX [HarrisClimbsMountainsforMe] Anhour\'ssailbroughtustoLucerneagain。Ijudgeditbesttogotobedandrestseveraldays，forIknewthatthemanwhoundertakestomakethetourofEuropeonfootmusttakecareofhimself。 Thinkingovermyplans，asmappedout，IperceivedthattheydidnottakeintheFurkaPass，theRhoneGlacier，theFinsteraarhorn，theWetterhorn，etc。Iimmediatelyexaminedtheguide-booktoseeifthesewereimportant，andfoundtheywere；infact，apedestriantourofEuropecouldnotbecompletewithoutthem。Ofcoursethatdecidedmeatoncetoseethem，forIneverallowmyselftodothingsbyhalves，orinaslurring，slipshodway。 Icalledinmyagentandinstructedhimtogowithoutdelayandmakeacarefulexaminationofthesenotedplaces，onfoot，andbringmebackawrittenreportoftheresult，forinsertioninmybook。IinstructedhimtogotoHospenthalasquicklyaspossible，andmakehisgrandstartfromthere； toextendhisfootexpeditionasfarastheGiesbachfall，andreturntomefromthencebydiligenceormule。 Itoldhimtotakethecourierwithhim。 Heobjectedtothecourier，andwithsomeshowofreason，sincehewasabouttoventureuponnewanduntriedground； butIthoughthemightaswelllearnhowtotakecareofthecouriernowaslater，thereforeIenforcedmypoint。 Isaidthatthetrouble，delay，andinconvenienceoftravelingwithacourierwerebalancedbythedeeprespectwhichacourier\'spresencecommands，andImustinsistthatasmuchstylebethrownintomyjourneysaspossible。 Sothetwoassumedcompletemountaineeringcostumesanddeparted。Aweeklatertheyreturned，prettywellusedup，andmyagenthandedmethefollowingOfficialReportOFAVISITTOTHEFURKAREGION。BYH。HARRIS，AGENT Aboutseveno\'clockinthemorning，withperfectlyfineweather，westartedfromHospenthal，andarrivedattheMAISONontheFurkainalittleunderQUATREhours。 ThewantofvarietyinthesceneryfromHospenthalmadetheKAHKAHPONEEKAwearisome；butletnonebediscouraged； noonecanfailtobecompletelyR\'ECOMPENS\'EEforhisfatigue，whenhesees，forthefirsttime，themonarchoftheOberland，thetremendousFinsteraarhorn。Amomentbeforeallwasdullness，butaPASfurtherhasplacedusonthesummitoftheFurka；andexactlyinfrontofus，ataHOPOWofonlyfifteenmiles，thismagnificentmountainliftsitssnow-wreathedprecipicesintothedeepbluesky。 Theinferiormountainsoneachsideofthepassformasortofframeforthepictureoftheirdreadlord，andcloseintheviewsocompletelythatnootherprominentfeatureintheOberlandisvisiblefromthisBONG-A-BONG； nothingwithdrawstheattentionfromthesolitarygrandeuroftheFinsteraarhornandthedependentspurswhichformtheabutmentsofthecentralpeak。 Withtheadditionofsomeothers，whowerealsoboundfortheGrimsel，weformedalargeXHVLOJaswedescendedtheSTEGwhichwindsroundtheshoulderofamountaintowardtheRhoneGlacier。Wesoonleftthepathandtooktotheice；andafterwanderingamongstthecrevicesUNPEU，toadmirethewondersofthesedeepbluecaverns，andheartherushingofwatersthroughtheirsubglacialchannels，westruckoutacoursetowardL\'AUTRECO^T\'Eandcrossedtheglaciersuccessfully，alittleabovethecavefromwhichtheinfantRhonetakesitsfirstboundfromunderthegrandprecipiceofice。HalfamilebelowthiswebegantoclimbtheflowerysideoftheMeienwand。 Oneofourpartystartedbeforetherest，buttheHITZE wassogreat，thatwefoundIHMquiteexhausted，andlyingatfulllengthintheshadeofalargeGESTEIN。 Wesatdownwithhimforatime，forallfelttheheatexceedinglyintheclimbupthisverysteepBOLWOGGOLY，andthenwesetoutagaintogether，andarrivedatlastneartheDeadMan\'sLake，atthefootoftheSidelhorn。 Thislonelyspot，onceusedforanextemporeburying-place，afterasanguinaryBATTUEbetweentheFrenchandAustrians，istheperfectionofdesolation；thereisnothinginsighttomarkthehandofman，exceptthelineofweather-beatenwhitenedposts，setuptoindicatethedirectionofthepassintheOWDAWAKKofwinter。Nearthispointthefootpathjoinsthewidertrack，whichconnectstheGrimselwiththeheadoftheRhoneSCHNAWP；thishasbeencarefullyconstructed，andleadswithatortuouscourseamongandoverLESPIERRES，downtothebankofthegloomylittleSWOSH-SWOSH，whichalmostwashesagainstthewallsoftheGrimselHospice。 Wearrivedalittlebeforefouro\'clockattheendofourday\'sjourney，hotenoughtojustifythestep，takingbymostofthePARTIE，ofplungingintothecrystalwaterofthesnow-fedlake。 ThenextafternoonwestartedforawalkuptheUnteraarglacier，withtheintentionof，atallevents，gettingasfarastheHU\"TTEwhichisusedasasleeping-placebymostofthosewhocrosstheStrahleckPasstoGrindelwald。 WegotoverthetediouscollectionofstonesandDE\'BRIS whichcoversthePIEDoftheGLETCHER，andhadwalkednearlythreehoursfromtheGrimsel，when，justaswewerethinkingofcrossingovertotheright，toclimbthecliffsatthefootofthehut，theclouds，whichhadforsometimeassumedathreateningappearance，suddenlydropped，andahugemassofthem，drivingtowardusfromtheFinsteraarhorn，poureddownadelugeofHABOOLONGandhail。Fortunately，wewerenotfarfromaverylargeglacier-table；itwasahugerockbalancedonapedestaloficehighenoughtoadmitofourallcreepingunderitforGOWKARAK。AstreamofPUCKITTYPUKK hadfurrowedacourseforitselfintheiceatitsbase，andwewereobligedtostandwithoneFUSSoneachsideofthis，andendeavortokeepourselvesCHAUDbycuttingstepsinthesteepbankofthepedestal，soastogetahigherplaceforstandingon，astheWASSERroserapidlyinitstrench。AverycoldBZZZZZZZZEEEaccompaniedthestorm，andmadeourpositionfarfrompleasant； andpresentlycameaflashofBLITZEN，apparentlyinthemiddleofourlittleparty，withaninstantaneousclapofYOKKY，soundinglikealargegunfiredclosetoourears； theeffectwasstartling；butinafewsecondsourattentionwasfixedbytheroaringechoesofthethunderagainstthetremendousmountainswhichcompletelysurroundedus。 Thiswasfollowedbymanymorebursts，noneofWELCHE，however，wassodangerouslynear；andafterwaitingalongDEMI-hourinouricyprison，wesalliedouttotalkthroughaHABOOLONGwhich，thoughnotsoheavyasbefore，wasquiteenoughtogiveusathoroughsoakingbeforeourarrivalattheHospice。 TheGrimselisCERTAINEMENTawonderfulplace；situatedatthebottomofasortofhugecrater，thesidesofwhichareutterlysavageGEBIRGE，composedofbarrenrockswhichcannotevensupportasinglepineARBRE，andaffordonlyscantyfoodforaherdofGMWKWLLOLP，itlooksasifitmustbecompletelyBEGRABENinthewintersnows。 Enormousavalanchesfallagainstiteveryspring，sometimescoveringeverythingtothedepthofthirtyorfortyfeet；and，inspiteofwallsfourfeetthick，andfurnishedwithoutsideshutters，thetwomenwhostayherewhentheVOYAGEURSaresnuglyquarteredintheirdistanthomescantellyouthatthesnowsometimesshakesthehousetoitsfoundations。 NextmorningtheHOGGLEBUMGULLUPstillcontinuedbad，butwemadeupourmindstogoon，andmakethebestofit。 Halfanhourafterwestarted，theREGENthickenedunpleasantly，andweattemptedtogetshelterunderaprojectingrock，butbeingfartoNASSalreadytomakestandingatallAGRE\'ABLE，wepushedonfortheHandeck，consolingourselveswiththereflectionthatfromthefuriousrushingoftheriverAaratourside，weshouldatalleventsseethecelebratedWASSERFALLinGRANDEPERFECTION。 NorwereweNAPPERSOCKETinourexpectation；thewaterwasroaringdownitsleapoftwohundredandfiftyfeetinamostmagnificentfrenzy，whilethetreeswhichclingtoitsrockysidesswayedtoandfrointheviolenceofthehurricanewhichitbroughtdownwithit；eventhestream，whichfallsintothemaincascadeatrightangles，andTOUTEFOISformsabeautifulfeatureinthescene，wasnowswollenintoaragingtorrent；andtheviolenceofthis\"meetingofthewaters，\"aboutfiftyfeetbelowthefrailbridgewherewestood，wasfearfullygrand。 Whilewewerelookingatit，GLU\"CKLICHEWEISEagleamofsunshinecameout，andinstantlyabeautifulrainbowwasformedbythespray，andhunginmid-airsuspendedovertheawfulgorge。 OngoingintotheCHALETabovethefall，wewereinformedthataBRU\"CKEhadbrokendownnearGuttanen，andthatitwouldbeimpossibletoproceedforsometime； accordinglywewerekeptinourdrenchedconditionforEINSTUNDE，whensomeVOYAGEURSarrivedfromMeiringen，andtoldusthattherehadbeenatriflingaccident，ABERthatwecouldnowcross。Onarrivingatthespot，IwasmuchinclinedtosuspectthatthewholestorywasarusetomakeusSLOWWKanddrinkthemoreattheHandeckInn，foronlyafewplankshadbeencarriedaway，andthoughtheremightperhapshavebeensomedifficultywithmules，thegapwascertainlynotlargerthanaMMBGLXmightcrosswithaveryslightleap。NearGuttanentheHABOOLONG happilyceased，andwehadtimetowalkourselvestolerablydrybeforearrivingatReichenback，WOweenjoyedagoodDINE\' attheHoteldesAlps。 NextmorningwewalkedtoRosenlaui，theBEAUID\'EAL ofSwissscenery，wherewespentthemiddleofthedayinanexcursiontotheglacier。Thiswasmorebeautifulthanwordscandescribe，forintheconstantprogressoftheiceithaschangedtheformofitsextremityandformedavastcavern，asblueastheskyabove，andrippledlikeafrozenocean。AfewstepscutintheWHOOPJAMBOREEHOOenabledustowalkcompletelyunderthis，andfeastoureyesupononeoftheloveliestobjectsincreation。Theglacierwasallarounddividedbynumberlessfissuresofthesameexquisitecolor，andthefinestwood-ERDBEERENweregrowinginabundancebutafewyardsfromtheice。TheinnstandsinaCHARMANT spotclosetotheC^OTEDELARIVIE`RE，which，lowerdown，formstheReichenbachfall，andembosomedintherichestofpinewoods，whilethefineformoftheWellhornlookingdownuponitcompletestheenchantingBOPPLE。 IntheafternoonwewalkedovertheGreatScheidecktoGrindelwald，stoppingtopayavisittotheUpperglacierbytheway；butwewereagainovertakenbybadHOGGLEBUMGULLUPandarrivedatthehotelinaSOLCHE astatethatthelandlord\'swardrobewasingreatrequest。 Thecloudsbythistimeseemedtohavedonetheirworst，foralovelydaysucceeded，whichwedeterminedtodevotetoanascentoftheFaulhorn。WeleftGrindelwaldjustasathunder-stormwasdyingaway，andwehopedtofindGUTEN WETTERupabove；buttherain，whichhadnearlyceased，beganagain，andwewerestruckbytherapidlyincreasingFROIDasweascended。Two-thirdsofthewayupwerecompletedwhentherainwasexchangedforGNILLIC，withwhichtheBODENwasthicklycovered，andbeforewearrivedatthetoptheGNILLICandmistbecamesothickthatwecouldnotseeoneanotheratmorethantwentyPOOPOOdistance，anditbecamedifficulttopickourwayovertheroughandthicklycoveredground。Shiveringwithcold，weturnedintobedwithadoubleallowanceofclothes，andsleptcomfortablywhilethewindhowledAUTOURDE LAMAISON；whenIawoke，thewallandthewindowlookedequallydark，butinanotherhourIfoundIcouldjustseetheformofthelatter；soIjumpedoutofbed，andforceditopen，thoughwithgreatdifficultyfromthefrostandthequantitiesofGNILLICheapedupagainstit。 Arowofhugeicicleshungdownfromtheedgeoftheroof，andanythingmorewintrythanthewholeANBLICKcouldnotwellbeimagined；butthesuddenappearanceofthegreatmountainsinfrontwassostartlingthatIfeltnoinclinationtomovetowardbedagain。ThesnowwhichhadcollecteduponLAFENE^TREhadincreasedtheFINSTERNISS ODERDERDUNKELHEIT，sothatwhenIlookedoutIwassurprisedtofindthatthedaylightwasconsiderable，andthattheBALRAGOOMAHwouldevidentlyrisebeforelong。 OnlythebrightestofLESE\'TOILESwerestillshining； theskywascloudlessoverhead，thoughsmallcurlingmistslaythousandsoffeetbelowusinthevalleys，wreathedaroundthefeetofthemountains，andaddingtothesplendoroftheirloftysummits。Weweresoondressedandoutofthehouse，watchingthegradualapproachofdawn，thoroughlyabsorbedinthefirstnearviewoftheOberlandgiants，whichbrokeuponusunexpectedlyaftertheintenseobscurityoftheeveningbefore。 \"KABAUGWAKKOSONGWASHEEKUMWETTERHORNSNAWPO!\"criedsomeone，asthatgrandsummitgleamedwiththefirstroseofdawn； andinafewmomentsthedoublecrestoftheSchreckhornfolloweditsexample；peakafterpeakseemedwarmedwithlife，theJungfraublushedevenmorebeautifullythanherneighbors，andsoon，fromtheWetterhornintheeasttotheWildstrubelinthewest，alongrowoffiresgloweduponmightyaltars，trulyworthyofthegods。 TheWLGWwasverysevere；oursleeping-placecouldhardlybeDISTINGUEE\'fromthesnowaroundit，whichhadfallentoadepthofaFLIRKduringthepastevening，andweheartilyenjoyedaroughscrambleENBAStotheGiesbachfalls，wherewesoonfoundawarmclimate。 AtnoonthedaybeforeGrindelwaldthethermometercouldnothavestoodatlessthan100degreesFahr。inthesun； andintheevening，judgingfromtheiciclesformed，andthestateofthewindows，theremusthavebeenatleasttwelveDINGBLATTERoffrost，thusgivingachangeof80 degreesduringafewhours。 Isaid: \"Youhavedonewell，Harris；thisreportisconcise，compact，wellexpressed；thelanguageiscrisp，thedescriptionsarevividandnotneedlesslyelaborated； yourreportgoesstraighttothepoint，attendsstrictlytobusiness，anddoesn\'tfoolaround。Itisinmanywaysanexcellentdocument。Butithasafault——itistoolearned，itismuchtoolearned。Whatis\'DINGBLATTER\'? \"\'DINGBLATTER\'isaFijiwordmeaning\'degrees。\'\" \"YouknewtheEnglishofit，then?\" \"Oh，yes。\" \"Whatis\'GNILLIC\'? \"ThatistheEskimotermfor\'snow。\'\" \"SoyouknewtheEnglishforthat，too?\" \"Why，certainly。\" \"Whatdoes\'MMBGLX\'standfor?\" \"ThatisZulufor\'pedestrian。\'\" \"\'WhiletheformoftheWellhornlookingdownuponitcompletestheenchantingBOPPLE。\'Whatis\'BOPPLE\'?\" \"\'Picture。\'It\'sChoctaw。\" \"Whatis\'SCHNAWP\'?\" \"\'Valley。\'ThatisChoctaw，also。\" \"Whatis\'BOLWOGGOLY\'?\" \"ThatisChinesefor\'hill。\'\" \"\'KAHKAHPONEEKA\'?\" \"\'Ascent。\'Choctaw。\" \"\'ButwewereagainovertakenbybadHOGGLEBUMGULLUP。\' Whatdoes\'HOGGLEBUMGULLUP\'mean?\" \"ThatisChinesefor\'weather。\'\" \"Is\'HOGGLEBUMGULLUP\'betterthantheEnglishword?Isitanymoredescriptive?\" \"No，itmeansjustthesame。\" \"And\'DINGBLATTER\'and\'GNILLIC，\'and\'BOPPLE，\' and\'SCHNAWP\'——aretheybetterthantheEnglishwords?\" \"No，theymeanjustwhattheEnglishonesdo。\" \"Thenwhydoyouusethem?WhyhaveyouusedallthisChineseandChoctawandZulurubbish?\" \"BecauseIdidn\'tknowanyFrenchbuttwoorthreewords，andIdidn\'tknowanyLatinorGreekatall。\" \"Thatisnothing。Whyshouldyouwanttouseforeignwords，anyhow?\" \"Theyadornmypage。Theyalldoit。\" \"Whois\'all\'?\" \"Everybody。Everybodythatwriteselegantly。Anybodyhasarighttothatwantsto。\" \"Ithinkyouaremistaken。\"Ithenproceededinthefollowingscathingmanner。\"Whenreallylearnedmenwritebooksforotherlearnedmentoread，theyarejustifiedinusingasmanylearnedwordsastheyplease——theiraudiencewillunderstandthem；butamanwhowritesabookforthegeneralpublictoreadisnotjustifiedindisfiguringhispageswithuntranslatedforeignexpressions。