Guinea-fowlabounded,butnograincouldbepurchased,forthepeoplehadcultivatedonlytheholmesalongthebankswithmaizeandpumpkins。Timeenoughhadnotelapsedsincetheslave-trader\'sinvasion,anddestructionoftheirstores,forthemtoraisecropsofgrainontheadjacentlands。Todealwiththemforafewheadsofmaizewasthehungrybargainingwiththefamished,sowehastenedonsouthwardsasfastastheexcessiveheatwouldallowus。Itwasimpossibletomarchinthemiddleoftheday,theheatwassointolerable;andwecouldnotgoonatnight,because,ifwehadchancedtomeetanyoftheinhabitants,weshouldhavebeentakenformarauders。
Wehadnowthundereveryafternoon;butwhileoccasionalshowersseemedtofallatdifferentparts,nonefellonus。Theairwasdeliciouslyclear,andrevealedallthelandscapecoveredeverywherewithforest,andboundedbybeautifulmountains。Onthe31stOctoberwereachedtheMukuru-Madse,afterhavingtravelled660geographicalmiles,or760Englishmilesinastraightline。Thiswasaccomplishedinfifty-fivetravellingdays,twelvemilesperdiemonanaverage。Ifthenumerousbendingsandwindings,andupsanddownsofthepathscouldhavebeenmeasuredtoo,thedistancewouldhavebeenfoundatleastfifteenmilesaday。
ThenightwesleptattheMukuru-Madseitthunderedheavily,but,asthishadbeenthecaseeveryafternoon,andnorainhadfollowed,weerectednoshelter,butduringthisnightapouringraincameon。
Whenverytiredamanfeelsdeterminedtosleepinspiteofeverything,andthesoundofdroppingwaterissaidtobeconducivetoslumber,butthatdoesnotrefertoanAfricanstorm。If,whenhalfasleepinspiteofaheavyshoweronthebackofthehead,heunconsciouslyturnsonhisside,thedropsfromthebranchesmakesuchcapitalshotsintohisear,thatthebrainringsagain。
Wewereoffnextmorning,the1stofNovember,assoonasthedaydawned。Inwalkingaboutsevenmilestotheship,ourclotheswerethoroughlydriedbythehotsun,andanattackoffeverfollowed。Werelatethislittleincidenttopointoutthealmostcertainconsequenceofgettingwetinthisclimate,andallowingtheclothestodryontheperson。Evenifwewalkinthemorningswhenthedewisonthegrass,andonlygetourfeetandlegswet,averyuneasyfeelingandpartialfeverwithpainsinthelimbsensue,andcontinuetillthemarchonwardsbathestheminperspiration。HadBishopMackenziebeenawareofthis,which,beforeexperiencealonehadtaughtus,entailedmanyaseverelesson,weknownoearthlyreasonwhyhisvaluablelifemightnothavebeenspared。ThedifferencebetweengettingtheclothessoakedinEnglandandinAfricaisthis:
inthecoldclimatethepatientiscompelled,or,atanyrate,warned,bydiscomforttoresortatoncetoachangeofraiment;whileinAfricaitiscoolingandratherpleasanttoallowtheclothestodryontheperson。AMissionaryinproportionashepossessesanathleticframe,hardenedbymanlyexercises,inadditiontohisotherqualifications,willexcelhimwhoisnotfavouredwithsuchbodilyendowments;butinahotclimateefficiencymainlydependsonhusbandingtheresources。Hemustneverforgetthat,inthetropics,heisanexoticplant。
CHAPTERXV。
Confidenceofnatives——BishopTozer——WithdrawaloftheMissionparty——
TheEnglishleave——HazardousvoyagetoMosambique——Dr。Livingstone\'svoyagetoBombay——ReturntoEngland。
Weweredelightedandthankfultofindallthoseleftattheshipingoodhealth,andthatfromtheemploymentsinwhichtheyhadbeenoccupiedtheyhadsufferedlessfromfeverthanusualduringourabsence。Mycompanion,ThomasWard,thesteward,afterhavingperformedhispartinthemarchrightbravely,rejoinedhiscomradesstrongerthanhehadeverbeenbefore。
AnAjawachief,namedKapeni,hadsomuchconfidenceintheEnglishnamethathe,withmostofhispeople,visitedtheship;andassertedthatnothingwouldgivehiscountrymengreaterpleasurethantoreceivetheassociatesofBishopMackenzieastheirteachers。Thisdeclaration,coupledwiththesubsequentconductoftheAjawa,wasverygratifying,inasmuchasitwasclearthatnoumbragehadbeentakenatthecheckwhichtheBishophadgiventotheirslaving;theirconscienceshadtoldthemthatthecoursehehadpursuedwasright。
Whenwereturned,thecontrastbetweenthevegetationaboutMuazi\'sandthatneartheshipwasverystriking。Wehadcomesoquicklydown,thatwhileontheplateauinlatitude12degreesS。,theyoungleaveshadinmanycasespassedfromthepinkorothercolourtheyhaveonfirstcomingouttothelightfreshgreenwhichsucceedsit,here,onthebordersof16degreesS。,orfrom150to180milesdistant,thetreeswerestillbare,thegreycolourofthebarkpredominatingovereveryotherhue。Thetreesinthetropicsherehaveaverywell-markedannualrest。OntheRovumaeven,whichisonlyabouttendegreesfromtheequator,inSeptembertheslopesupfromtheriversomesixtymilesinlandwereofalightashy-greycolour;andonascendingthem,wefoundthatthemajorityofthetreeswerewithoutleaves;thoseofthebambooevenlaycrispandcrumpledontheground。Asthesunisusuallyhotbyday,eveninthewinter,thiswitheringprocessmaybeowingtothecoolnights;
AfricadifferingsomuchfromCentralIndiainthefactthat,inAfrica,howeverhotthedaymaybe,theairgenerallycoolsdownsufficientlybytheearlymorningwatchestorenderacoveringorevenablanketagreeable。
Thefirstfortnightafterourreturntotheshipwasemployedinthedelightfulprocessofresting,toappreciatewhichamanmusthavegonethroughgreatexertions。Inourcasethemusclesofthelimbswereashardasboards,andnotanounceoffatexistedonanypartofthebody。Wenowhadfrequentshowers;but,thesebeingonlytheearlierrains,theresultontheriseoftheriverwasbutafewinches。Theeffectoftheserainsonthesurroundingscenerywasbeautifulintheextreme。Alltraceofthedryseasonwassoonobliterated,andhillsandmountainsfrombasetosummitwerecoveredwithamantleoflivinggreen。Thesunpassedusonhiswaysouthwithoutcausingaflood,soallourhopesofareleasewerecentredonhisreturntowardstheEquator,when,asarule,thewatersofinundationaremadetoflow。Uptothistimetherainsdescendedsimplytowatertheearth,fillthepools,andmakereadyforthegrandoverflowforwhichwehadstilltowaitsixweeks。Itisofnousetoconcealthatwewaitedwithmuchchagrin;forhadwenotbeenforcedtoreturnfromthehighlandswestofNyassawemighthavevisitedLakeBemba;butunavailingregretsarepooremploymentforthemind;sowebanishedthemtothebestofourpower。
AboutthemiddleofDecember,1863,wewereinformedthatBishopMackenzie\'ssuccessor,afterspendingafewmonthsonthetopofamountainaboutashighasBenNevisinScotland,atthemouthoftheShire,wheretherewerefewornopeopletobetaught,haddeterminedtoleavethecountry。ThisunfortunatedecisionwascommunicatedtousatthesametimethatsixoftheboysrearedbyBishopMackenzieweresentbackintoheathenism。Theboysweretakentoaplaceaboutsevenmilesfromtheship,butimmediatelyfoundtheirwayuptous。
Wetoldthemthatiftheywishedtoremaininthecountrytheyhadbettersoarrangeatonce,forweweresoontoleave。Thesequelwillshowtheirchoice。
AssoonasthedeathofBishopMackenziewasknownattheCape,Dr。
Gray,theexcellentBishopthere,proceededatoncetoEngland,withaviewofsecuringanearlyappointmentofanotherheadtotheMission,whichinitsoriginowedsomuchtohiszealforthespreadofthegospelamongtheheathen,andwhoseinterestshehadcontinuallyatheart。Aboutthemiddleof1862weheardthatDr。
Gray\'seffortshadbeensuccessful,andthatanotherclergymanwouldsoontaketheplaceofourdepartedfriend。ThispleasingintelligencewasexceedinglycheeringtotheMissionaries,andgratifyingalsotothemembersoftheExpedition。Aboutthebeginningof1863thenewBishoparrivedatthemouthoftheriverinaman-of-war,andaftersomedelayproceededinland。TheBishopoftheCapehadtakenavoyagehomeatconsiderableinconveniencetohimself,forthesoleobjectofpromotingthisMissiontotheheathen;anditwassomehowexpectedthatthemanhewouldsecurewouldbeanimageofhimself;andwemustsay,thatwhateverothers,fromtherepresentationsthathavegoneabroad,maythinkofhischaracter,weinvariablyfoundDr。Graytobeatrue,warm-heartedpromoterofthewelfareofhisfellow-men;amanwhosecourageandzealhaveprovokedverymanytogoodworks。
ItwashopedthatthepresenceofanewheadtotheMissionwouldinfusenewenergyandlifeintothesmallbandofMissionaries,whoserankshadbeenthinnedbydeath;andwho,thoughdiscouragedbythedisasterswhichtheslavewarandfaminehadinduced,andalsodispiritedbythedepressinginfluencesofalowandunhealthypositionintheswampyShireValley,wereyetbravelyholdingouttillthemuch-neededmoralandmaterialaidshouldarrive。
WebelievethatweareutteringthesentimentsofmanydevoutmembersofdifferentsectionsofChristians,whenwesay,itwasapitythattheMissionoftheUniversitieswasabandoned。Thegroundhadbeenconsecratedinthetruestsensebythelivesofthosebravemenwhofirstoccupiedit。InbarejusticetoBishopMackenzie,whowasthefirsttofall,itmustbesaid,thattherepudiationofallhehaddone,andthesuddenabandonmentofallthathadcostsomuchlifeandmoneytosecure,wasaseriouslineofconductforonesounversedinMissionaryoperationsashissuccessor,toinaugurate。
ItwouldhavebeennomorethanfairthatBishopTozer,beforewindinguptheaffairsoftheMission,shouldactuallyhaveexaminedthehighlandsoftheUpperShire;hewouldthushavegratifiedtheassociatesofhispredecessor,whobelievedthatthehighlandshadneverhadafairtrial,andhewouldhavegainedfrompersonalobservationamoreaccurateknowledgeofthecountryandthepeoplethanhecouldpossiblyhavebecomepossessedofbyinformationgatheredchieflyonthecoast。Withthisexamination,ratherthanwithastayofafewmonthsonthehumid,drippingtopofmistyMorambala,weshouldhavefeltmuchmoresatisfied。
InJanuary,1864,thenativesallconfidentlyassertedthatatnextfullmoontheriverwouldhaveitsgreatandpermanentflood。Ithadseveraltimesrisenasmuchasafoot,butfellagainassuddenly。
Itwascuriousthattheirobservationcoincidedexactlywithours,thatthefloodofinundationhappenswhenthesuncomesoverheadonhiswaybacktotheEquator。Wementionthismoreminutelybecause,fromtheobservationofseveralyears,webelievethatinthiswaytheinundationoftheNileistobeexplained。Onthe19ththeShiresuddenlyroseseveralfeet,andwestartedatonce;andstoppingonlyforashorttimeatChibisa\'stobidadieutotheAjawaandMakololo,whohadbeenextremelyusefultousoflateinsupplyingmaizeandfreshprovisions,wehastenedonourwaytotheocean。Inordertokeepasteeragewayonthe\"Pioneer,\"wehadtogoquickerthanthestream,andunfortunatelycarriedawayherrudderinpassingsuddenlyroundabank。ThedelayrequiredfortherepairspreventedourreachingMorambalatillthe2ndofFebruary。
Theflood-waterranintoamarshsomemilesabovethemountain,andbecameasblackasink;andwhenitreturnedagaintotheriveremittedsostronganeffluviumofsulphurettedhydrogen,thatonecouldnotforgetforaninstantthattheairwasmostoffensive。Thenativessaidthisstenchdidnotproducedisease。Wespentonenightinit,andsufferednoilleffects,thoughwefullyexpectedanattackoffever。Nextmorningeveryparticleofwhitepaintonbothshipswassodeeplyblackened,thatitcouldnotbecleanedbyscrubbingwithsoapandwater。Thebrasswasallturnedtoabronzecolour,andeventheironandropeshadtakenanewtint。Thisisanadditionalproofthatmalariaandoffensiveeffluviaarenotalwayscompanions。Wedidnotsuffermorefromfeverinthemangroveswamps,whereweinhaledsomuchoftheheavymouseysmellthatitwasdistinguishableintheodourofourshirtsandflannels,thanwedidelsewhere。
Wetarriedinthefoulandblackeningemanationsfromthemarshbecausewehadagreedtoreceiveonboardaboutthirtypoororphanboysandgirls,andafewhelplesswidowswhomBishopMackenziehadattachedtohisMission。AllwhowereabletosupportthemselveshadbeenencouragedbytheMissionariestodosobycultivatingtheground,andtheynowformedalittlefreecommunity。Buttheboysandgirlswhowereonlyfromseventotwelveyearsofage,andorphanswithoutanyonetohelpthem,couldnotbeabandonedwithoutbringingodiumontheEnglishname。TheeffectofanoutcrybysomepersonsinEngland,whoknewnothingofthecircumstancesinwhichBishopMackenziewasplaced,andwhocertainlyhadnotgivenuptheirownrightofappealtotheswordofthemagistrate,was,thatthenewheadoftheMissionhadgonetoextremesintheoppositedirectionfromhispredecessor;notevenprotestingagainsttheonemonstrousevilofthecountry,theslave-trade。WebelievedthatweoughttoleavetheEnglishnameinthesamegoodreputeamongthenativesthatwehadfoundit;andinremovingthepoorcreatures,whohadlivedwithMackenzieaschildrenwithafather,toalandwheretheeducationhebeganwouldbecompleted,wehadtheaidandsympathyofthebestofthePortuguese,andofthewholepopulation。Thedifferencebetweenshippingslavesandreceivingthesefreeorphansstruckusastheycameonboard。Assoonaspermissiontoembarkwasgiven,therushintotheboatnearlyswampedher——theireagernesstobesafeonthe\"Pioneer\'s\"deckhadtoberepressed。
BishopTozerhadalreadyleftforQuillimanewhenwetookthesepeopleandthelastoftheUniversities\'MissionariesonboardandproceededtotheZambesi。Itwasinhighflood。Wehavealwaysspokenofthisriverasifatitslowest,forfearlestweshouldconveyanexaggeratedimpressionofitscapabilitiesfornavigation。
Insteadoffromfivetofifteenfeet,itwasnowfromfifteentothirtyfeet,ormore,deep。Allthesandbanksandmanyoftheislandshaddisappeared,andbeforeusrolledarivercapable,asoneofournavalfriendsthought,ofcarryingagunboat。Someofthesandyislandsareannuallysweptaway,andthequantitiesofsandcarrieddownareprodigious。
Theprocessbywhichadelta,extendingeightyoronehundredmilesfromthesea,hasbeenformedmaybeseengoingonatthepresentday——thecoarserparticlesofsandaredrivenoutintotheocean,justinthesamewayasweseetheyareoverbanksinthebedsoftorrents。Thefinerportionsarecaughtbythereturningtide,and,accumulatingbysuccessiveebbsandflows,become,withthedecayingvegetation,arrestedbythemangroveroots。TheinfluenceofthetideinbringingbackthefinerparticlesgivestheseanearthemouthoftheZambesiacleanandsandybottom。Thisprocesshasbeengoingonforages,andasthedeltahasenlargedeastwards,theriverhasalwayskeptachannelforitselfbehind。Whereverweseeanislandallsand,orwithonlyonelayerofmudinit,weknowitisoneofrecentformation,andthatitmaybesweptawayatanytimebyaflood;whilethoseislandswhichareallofmudarethemoreancient,havinginfactexistedeversincethetimewhentheebbingandflowingtidesoriginallyformedthemaspartsofthedelta。Thismudresiststheactionoftheriverwonderfully。Itisakindofclayonwhichtheerodingpowerofwaterhaslittleeffect。Weremapsmade,showingwhichbanksandwhichislandsareliabletoerosion,itwouldgofartosettlewheretheannualchangeofthechannelwouldtakeplace;and,wereafewstakesdriveninyearbyyeartoguidethewaterinitscourse,therivermightbemadeofconsiderablecommercialvalueinthehandsofanyenergeticEuropeannation。NocanalorrailwaywouldeverbethoughtofforthispartofAfrica。AfewimprovementswouldmaketheZambesiareadymeansoftransitforallthetradethat,withapopulationthinnedbyPortugueseslaving,willeverbedevelopedinourday。Herethereisnoinstanceonrecordofthenativesflockinginthousandstothecolony,astheydidatNatal,andeventotheArabsonLakeNyassa。
ThiskeepingaloofrendersitunlikelythatinPortuguesehandstheZambesiwilleverbeofanymorevaluetotheworldthanithasbeen。
AfterahurriedvisittoSenna,inordertosettlewithMajorSicardandSenhorFerraoforsupplieswehaddrawnthenceafterthedepopulationoftheShire,weproceededdowntotheZambesi\'smouth,andwerefortunateinmeeting,onthe13thFebruary,withH。M。S。
\"Orestes。”ShewasjoinednextdaybyH。M。S。\"Ariel。”The\"Orestes\"
tookthe\"Pioneer,\"andthe\"Ariel\"the\"LadyNyassa\"intow,forMosambique。Onthe16thacircularstormprovedthesea-goingqualitiesofthe\"LadyoftheLake;\"foronthisdayahurricanestruckthe\"Ariel,\"anddrovehernearlybackwardsatarateofsixknots。Thetowinghawserwoundroundherscrewandstoppedherengines。Nosoonerhadsherecoveredfromthisshockthanshewasagaintakenabackontheothertack,anddrivenstemontowardsthe\"LadyNyassa\'s\"broadside。Wewhowereonboardthelittlevesselsawnochanceofescapeunlessthecrewofthe\"Ariel\"shouldthinkofheavingropeswhenthebigshipwentoverus;butsheglidedpastourbow,andwebreathedfreelyagain。Wehadnowanopportunityofwitnessingman-of-warseamanship。CaptainChapman,thoughhisenginesweredisabled,didnotthinkofabandoningusintheheavygale,butcrossedthebowsofthe\"LadyNyassa\"againandagain,droppingacaskwithalinebywhichtogiveusanotherhawser。Wemightneverhavepickeditup,hadnotaKroomanjumpedoverboardandfastenedasecondlinetothecask;andthenwedrewthehawseronboard,andwereagainintow。Duringthewholetimeofthehurricanethelittlevesselbehavedadmirably,andnevershippedasinglegreensea。Whenthe\"Ariel\"pitchedforwardswecouldseealargepartofherbottom,andwhenhersternwentdownwecouldseeallherdeck。
Aboat,hungathersterndavits,wasstoveinbythewaves。Theofficersonboardthe\"Ariel\"thoughtthatitwasalloverwithus:
weimaginedthattheyweresufferingmorethanwewere。Nauticalmenmaysupposethatthiswasaseriousstormonlytolandsmen;butthe\"Orestes,\"whichwasonceinsight,andatanothertimefortymilesoffduringthesamegale,spliteighteensails;andthe\"Pioneer\"hadtobelightenedofpartsofasugar-millshewascarrying;herround-
housewaswashedaway,andthecabinwasfrequentlyknee-deepinwater。Whenthe\"Orestes\"cameintoMosambiqueharbourninedaysafterourarrivalthere,ourvessel,notbeinganchoredclosetothe\"Ariel,\"forwehadruninundertheleeofthefort,ledtothesurmiseonboardthe\"Orestes\"thatwehadgonetothebottom。
CaptainChapmanandhisofficerspronouncedthe\"LadyNyassa\"tobethefinestlittlesea-boattheyhadeverseen。Shecertainlywasacontrasttothe\"Ma-Robert,\"anddidgreatcredittoherbuilders,TedandMacgregorofGlasgow。WecanbutregretthatshewasnotemployedontheLakeafterwhichshewasnamed,andforwhichshewasintendedandwassowelladapted。
Whatstruckusmost,duringthetripfromtheZambesitoMosambique,wastheadmirablewayinwhichCaptainChapmanhandledthe\"Ariel\"intheheavyseaofthehurricane;thepromptitudeandskillwithwhich,whenwehadbrokenthreehawsers,otherswerepassedtousbytherapidevolutionsofabigshiproundalittleone;andthereadyapplianceofmeansshownincuttingthehawseroffthescrewninefeetunderwaterwithlongchiselsmadefortheoccasion;ataskwhichittookthreedaystoaccomplish。CaptainChapmanverykindlyinvitedusonboardthe\"Ariel,\"andweacceptedhishospitalityaftertheweatherhadmoderated。
Thelittlevesselwashauledthroughandagainstthehugeseaswithsuchforcethattwohawsersmeasuringelevenincheseachincircumferenceparted。Manyoftheblowswereceivedfromthebillowsmadeeveryplatequiverfromstemtostern,andthemotionwassoquickthatwehadtoholdoncontinuallytoavoidbeingtossedfromonesidetotheotherorintothesea。TenofthelateBishop\'sflockwhomwehadonboardbecamesosickandhelplessthatdowhatwecouldtoaidthemtheyweresoverymuchinthewaythattheideabrokeinuponus,thattheclosepackingresortedtobyslaversisoneofthenecessitiesofthetraffic。Ifthisisso,itwouldaccountforthefactthatevenwhenthetradewaslegalthesameinjuriouscustomwascommon,ifnotuniversal。If,insteadoftensuchpassengers,wehadbeencarryingtwohundred,withthewinddrivingtherainandspray,asbynightitdid,nearlyashardashailagainstourfaces,andnothingwhatevertobeseentowindwardbuttheoccasionalgleamofthecrestofawave,andnosoundheardsavethewhistlingofthestormthroughtherigging,itwouldhavebeenabsolutelynecessaryfortheworkingoftheshipandsafetyofthewholethatthelivecargoshouldallhavebeenstoweddownbelow,whatevermighthavebeentheconsequences。
Havingdeliveredthe\"Pioneer\"overtotheNavy,shewastoweddowntotheCapebyCaptainForsythofthe\"Valorous,\"andafterexaminationitwasdeclaredthatwithrepairstotheamountof300
poundsshewouldbeasserviceableasever。ThoseoftheBishop\'sflockwhomwehadonboardwerekindlyallowedapassagetotheCape。
Theboyswentinthe\"Orestes,\"andwearegladoftheopportunitytorecordourheartfeltthankstoCaptainsForsyth,Gardner,andChapmanforrenderingus,atvarioustimes,everyaidintheirpower。Mr。
Wallerwentinthe\"Pioneer,\"andcontinuedhisgenerousservicestoallconnectedwiththeMission,whetherwhiteorblack,tilltheywerenolongerneeded;andwemustsaythathisconducttothemthroughoutwastrulynoble,andworthyofthehighestpraise。
Afterbeachingthe\"LadyNyassa\"atCaboceira,oppositethehouseofaPortuguesegentlemanwellknowntoallEnglishmen,JoaodaCostaSoares,weputinbrinecocks,andcleanedandpaintedherbottom。
Mr。SoaresappearedtoustohavebeenverymuchvilifiedinapublicationinEnglandafewyearsago;ourexperienceprovedhimtobeextremelykindandobliging。AllthemembersoftheExpeditionwhopassedMosambiquewereunanimousinextollinghisgenerosityand,fromthegeneraltestimonyofEnglishvisitorsinhisfavour,weverymuchregretthathischaracterwassogrievouslymisrepresented。TotheauthoritiesatMosambiqueourthanksarealsodueforobligingaccommodation;andthoughwedifferentirelyfromthePortugueseofficialsastothelightinwhichweregardtheslave-trade,wetrustourexposureofthesystem,inwhichunfortunatelytheyareengaged,willnotbeunderstoodasindicatinganywantofkindlyfeelingandgoodwilltothempersonally。SenhorCantoeCastro,whoarrivedatMosambiquetwodaysafterourdeparturetotaketheofficeofGovernor-General,waswellknowntousinAngola。WelivedtwomonthsinhishousewhenhewasCommandantofGolungoAlto;and,knowinghimthoroughly,believethatnobettermancouldhavebeenselectedfortheoffice。Wetrustthathisgoodprinciplesmayenablehimtowithstandthetemptationsofhisposition;butweshouldbesorrytohaveourstriedinadenofslave-traderswiththemiserablepittancehereceivesforhissupport。
WhileatMosambique,aspeciesofPedaliacalledbyMr。SoaresDadeleira,andbythenatives——fromitsresemblancetoGerzilin,orsesamum——\"wildsesamum,\"wasshowntous,andissaidtobewellknownamongnativenursesasaverygentleandtastelessaperientforchildren。Afewleavesofitarestirredinacupofcoldwaterforeightornineseconds,andacoupleofteaspoonfulsoftheliquidgivenasadose。Theleavesformasortofmucilageinthewaterbylongerstirring,whichissaidtohavediureticpropertiesbesides。
Onthe16thAprilwesteamedoutfromMosambique;and,thecurrentsbeinginourfavour,inaweekreachedZanzibar。Hereweexperiencedmuchhospitalityfromourcountrymen,andespeciallyfromDr。Seward,thenactingconsulandpoliticalagentforColonelPlayfair。
Dr。SewardwasverydoubtfulifwecouldreachBombaybeforewhatiscalledthebreakofthemonsoontookplace。ThisbreakoccursusuallybetweentheendofMayandthe12thofJune。ThewindstillblowsfromAfricatoIndia,butwithsomuchviolence,andwithsuchamurkyatmosphere,thatfewornoobservationsforpositioncanbetaken。Wewere,however,atthetimeveryanxioustodisposeofthe\"LadyNyassa,\"and,theonlymarketwecouldreachbeingBombay,weresolvedtoruntheriskofgettingtherebeforethestormyperiodcommenced;and,aftertakingfourteentonsofcoalonboard,westartedonthe30thAprilfromZanzibar。
OurcomplementconsistedofsevennativeZambesians,twoboys,andfourEuropeans;namely,onestoker,onesailor,onecarpenter,whosenameshavebeenalreadymentioned,andDr。Livingstone,asnavigator。
The\"LadyNyassa\"hadshownherselftobeagoodsea-boat。Thenativeshadprovedthemselvescapitalsailors,thoughbeforevolunteeringnotoneofthemhadeverseenthesea。Theywerenotpickedmen,but,onpayingadozenwhomwehadinouremploymentforfifteenmonths,theyweretakenatrandomfromseveralhundredswhoofferedtoaccompanyus。Theirwagesweretenshillingspermensem,anditwascurioustoobserve,thatsoeagerweretheytodotheirduty,thatonlyoneofthemlaydownfromsea-sicknessduringthewholevoyage。Theytookinandsetsailverycleverlyinashorttime,andwouldclimboutalongaboom,reevearopethroughtheblock,andcomebackwiththeropeintheirteeth,thoughateachlurchtheperformerwasdippedinthesea。Thesailorandcarpenter,thoughanxioustodotheirutmost,hadaweek\'ssevereillnesseach,andwereunfitforduty。
Itispleasantenoughtotakethewheelforanhourortwo,orevenforawatch,butwhenitcomestobeforeveryalternatefourhours,itisutterlywearisome。Wesetourblackmentosteer,showingthemwhicharmofthecompassneedlewastobekepttowardsthevessel\'shead,andsoonthreeofthemcouldmanageverywell,andtheyonlyneededwatching。IngoinguptheEastCoasttotakeadvantageofthecurrentofonehundredmilesaday,wewouldfainhavegoneintotheJubaorWebbeRiver,themouthofwhichisonly15minutessouthoftheline,butweweretooshorthanded。WepasseduptoabouttendegreesnorthoftheEquator,andthensteamedoutfromthecoast。
HereMaury\'swindchartshowedthatthecalm-belthadlongbeenpassed,butwewereinitstill;and,insteadofacurrentcarryingusnorth,wehadacontrarycurrentwhichboreuseverydayfourmilestothesouth。Westeamedaslongaswedared,knowingaswedidthatwemustusetheenginesonthecoastofIndia。
Afterlosingmanydaystossingonthesilentsea,withinnumerabledolphins,flying-fish,andsharksaroundus,wehadsixdaysofstrongbreezes,thencalmsagaintriedourpatience;andthenearapproachofthatperiod,\"thebreakofthemonsoon,\"inwhichitwasbelievednoboatcouldlive,madeussometimesthinkourepitaphwouldbe\"LeftZanzibaron30thApril,1864,andnevermoreheardof。”Atlast,inthebeginningofJune,thechronometersshowedthatwewereneartheIndiancoast。Theblackmenbelieveditwastruebecausewetoldthemitwasso,butonlybegantodancewithjoywhentheysawsea-weedandserpentsfloatingpast。Theseserpentsarepeculiartotheseparts,andarementionedaspoisonousinthesailingdirections。Weventuredtopredictthatweshouldseelandnextmorning,andatmiddaythehighcoasthoveinsight,wonderfullylikeAfricabeforetherainsbegin。Thenahazecoveredalltheland,andaheavyswellbeattowardsit。Arockwasseen,andalatitudeshowedittobetheChoulerock。Makingthatafreshstarting-point,wesoonfoundthelight-ship,andthentheforestofmastsloomedthroughthehazeinBombayharbour。Wehadsailedover2500miles。
Footnotes:
{1}Aremedycomposedoffromsixtoeightgrainsofresinofjalap,thesameofrhubarb,andthreeeachofcalomelandquinine,madeupintofourpills,withtinctureofcardamoms,usuallyrelievedallthesymptomsinfiveorsixhours。Fourpillsareafulldoseforaman——
onewillsufficeforawoman。Theyreceivedfromourmenthenameof\"rousers,\"fromtheirefficacyinrousingupeventhosemostprostrated。Whentheiroperationisdelayed,adessert-spoonfulofEpsomsaltsshouldbegiven。Quinineafterorduringtheoperationofthepills,inlargedoseseverytwoorthreehours,untildeafnessorcinchonismensued,completedthecure。Theonlycasesinwhich,wefoundourselvescompletelyhelpless,werethoseinwhichobstinatevomitingensued。
{2}ThelateMr。Robson。
{3}In1865,fouryearsaftertheseforebodingswerepenned,wereceivedintelligencethattheyhadallcometopass。Sekeletudiedinthebeginningof1864——acivilwarbrokeoutaboutthesuccessiontothechieftainship;alargebodyofthoseopposedtothelatechief\'suncle,Impololo,beingregent,departedwiththeircattletoLakeNgami;aninsurrectionbytheblacktribesfollowed;Impololowasslain,andthekingdom,ofwhich,underanablesagaciousmission,avastdealmighthavebeenmade,hassufferedtheusualfateofAfricanconquests。Thatfatewedeeplydeplore;for,whateverotherfaultstheMakololomightjustlybechargedwith,theydidnotbelongtotheclasswhobuyandselleachother,andthetribeswhohavesucceededthemdo。
{4}ItwaswithsorrowthatwelearnedbyaletterfromMr。Moffat,in1864,thatpoorSekeletuwasdead。Aswillbementionedfurtheron,menweresentwithustobringupmoremedicine。TheypreferredtoremainontheShire,and,astheywerefreemen,wecoulddonomorethantryandpersuadethemtohastenbacktotheirchiefwithiodineandotherremedies。Theytooktheparcel,buttherebeingonlytworealMakololoamongthem,thesecouldneitherreturnthemselvesaloneorforcetheirattendantstoleaveapartofthecountrywheretheywereindependent,andcouldsupportthemselveswithease。Sekeletu,however,livedlongenoughtoreceiveandacknowledgegoodstothevalueof50pounds,sent,inlieuofthosewhichremainedinTette,byRobertMoffat,jun。,sincedead。
{5}Abrother,webelieve,ofonewhoaccompaniedBurkeandWillisinthefamousbutunfortunateAustralianExpedition。
{6}Genesis,chap。iii。,verses21and23,\"makecoatsofskins,andclothedthem\"——\"senthimforthfromthegardenofEdentotilltheground\"implyteaching。VideArchbishopWhately\'s\"HistoryofReligiousWorship。”JohnW。Parker,WestStrand,London,1849。
{7}\"In1854thenativechurchatSierra-Leoneundertooktopayfortheirprimaryschools,andtherebyeffectedasavingtotheChurchMissionarySocietyof800poundsperannum。In1861thecontributionsofthisonesectionofnativeChristianshadamountedtoupwardsof10,000pounds。”——\"ManualofChurchMissionarySociety\'sAfricanMissions。”