第6章

Butthisistheage，inwhichthosewhocouldnotread，havebeensupposedtowrite；inwhichthegiantsofantiquatedromancehavebeenexhibitedasrealities。IfweknowlittleoftheancientHighlanders，letusnotfillthevacuitywithOssian。IfwehadnotsearchedtheMagellanickregions，letushoweverforbeartopeoplethemwithPatagons。 HavingwaitedsomedaysatArmidel，wewereflatteredatlastwithawindthatpromisedtoconveyustoMull。Wewentonboardaboatthatwastakinginkelp，andlefttheIsleofSkybehindus。Weweredoomedtoexperience，likeothers，thedangeroftrustingtothewind，whichblewagainstus，inashorttime，withsuchviolence，thatwe，beingnoseasonedsailors，werewillingtocallitatempest。Iwassea-sickandlaydown。Mr。Boswellkeptthedeck。Themasterknewnotwellwhithertogo；andourdifficultiesmightperhapshavefilledaverypathetickpage，hadnotMr。 MacleanofCol，who，witheveryotherqualificationwhichinsularliferequires，isaveryactiveandskilfulmariner，pilotedussafeintohisownharbour。 COL InthemorningwefoundourselvesundertheIsleofCol，wherewelanded；andpassedthefirstdayandnightwithCaptainMaclean，agentlemanwhohaslivedsometimeintheEastIndies；buthavingdethronednoNabob，isnottoorichtosettleinowncountry。 Nextdaythewindwasfair，andwemighthavehadaneasypassagetoMull；buthaving，contrarilytoourownintention，landeduponanewIsland，wewouldnotleaveitwhollyunexamined。Wethereforesufferedthevesseltodepartwithoutus，andtrustedtheskiesforanotherwind。 Mr。MacleanofCol，havingaverynumerousfamily，has，forsometimepast，residedatAberdeen，thathemaysuperintendtheireducation，andleavestheyounggentleman，ourfriend，togovernhisdominions，withthefullpowerofaHighlandChief。BytheabsenceoftheLaird\'sfamily，ourentertainmentwasmademoredifficult，becausethehousewasinagreatdegreedisfurnished； butyoungCol\'skindnessandactivitysuppliedalldefects，andprocuredusmorethansufficientaccommodation。 HereIfirstmountedalittleHighlandsteed；andiftherehadbeenmanyspectators，shouldhavebeensomewhatashamedofmyfigureinthemarch。ThehorsesoftheIslands，asofotherbarrencountries，areverylow:theyareindeedmusculousandstrong，beyondwhattheirsizegivesreasonforexpecting；butabulkymanupononeoftheirbacksmakesaverydisproportionateappearance。 FromthehabitationofCaptainMaclean，wewenttoGrissipol，butcalledbythewayonMr。HectorMaclean，theMinisterofCol，whomwefoundinahut，thatis，ahouseofonlyonefloor，butwithwindowsandchimney，andnotinelegantlyfurnished。Mr。Macleanhasthereputationofgreatlearning:heisseventy-sevenyearsold，butnotinfirm，withalookofvenerabledignity，excellingwhatIrememberinanyotherman。 Hisconversationwasnotunsuitabletohisappearance。Ilostsomeofhisgood-will，bytreatingahereticalwriterwithmoreregardthan，inhisopinion，aheretickcoulddeserve。Ihonouredhisorthodoxy，anddidnotmuchcensurehisasperity。Amanwhohassettledhisopinions，doesnotlovetohavethetranquillityofhisconvictiondisturbed；andatseventy-sevenitistimetobeinearnest。 MentionwasmadeoftheEarsetranslationoftheNewTestament，whichhasbeenlatelypublished，andofwhichthelearnedMr。 MacqueenofSkyspokewithcommendation；butMr。Macleansaidhedidnotuseit，becausehecouldmakethetextmoreintelligibletohisauditorsbyanextemporaryversion。FromthisIinferred，thatthelanguageofthetranslationwasnotthelanguageoftheIsleofCol。 Hehasnopublickedificefortheexerciseofhisministry；andcanofficiatetonogreaternumber，thanaroomcancontain；andtheroomofahutisnotverylarge。ThisisalltheopportunityofworshipthatisnowgrantedtotheinhabitantsoftheIsland，someofwhommusttravelthitherperhapstenmiles。Twochapelswereerectedbytheirancestors，ofwhichIsawtheskeletons，whichnowstandfaithfulwitnessesofthetriumphoftheReformation。 Thewantofchurchesisnottheonlyimpedimenttopiety:thereislikewiseawantofMinisters。AparishoftencontainsmoreIslandsthanone；andeachIslandcanhavetheMinisteronlyinitsownturn。AtRaasatheyhad，Ithink，arighttoserviceonlyeverythirdSunday。Alltheprovisionmadebythepresentecclesiasticalconstitution，fortheinhabitantsofaboutahundredsquaremiles，isaprayerandsermoninalittleroom，onceinthreeweeks:andeventhisparsimoniousdistributionisatthemercyoftheweather； andinthoseIslandswheretheMinisterdoesnotreside，itisimpossibletotellhowmanyweeksormonthsmaypasswithoutanypublickexerciseofreligion。 GRISSIPOLINCOL AfterashortconversationwithMr。Maclean，wewentontoGrissipol，ahouseandfarmtenantedbyMr。Macsweyn，whereIsawmoreoftheancientlifeofaHighlander，thanIhadyetfound。 Mrs。MacsweyncouldspeaknoEnglish，andhadneverseenanyotherplacesthantheIslandsofSky，Mull，andCol:butshewashospitableandgood-humoured，andspreadhertablewithsufficientliberality。Wefoundteahere，asineveryotherplace，butourspoonswereofhorn。 ThehouseofGrissipolstandsbyabrookveryclearandquick； whichis，Isuppose，oneofthemostcopiousstreamsintheIsland。 Thisplacewasthesceneofanaction，muchcelebratedinthetraditionalhistoryofCol，butwhichprobablynotworelaterswilltellalike。 Sometime，intheobscureages，MacneilofBarramarriedtheLadyMaclean，whohadtheIsleofColforherjointure。WhetherMacneildetainedCol，whenthewidowwasdead，orwhethershelivedsolongastomakeherheirsimpatient，isperhapsnotnowknown。Theyoungerson，calledJohnGerves，orJohntheGiant，amanofgreatstrengthwhowastheninIreland，eitherforsafety，orforeducation，dreamedofrecoveringhisinheritance；andgettingsomeadventurerstogether，which，inthoseunsettledtimes，wasnothardtodo，invadedCol。Hewasdrivenaway，butwasnotdiscouraged，andcollectingnewfollowers，inthreeyearscameagainwithfiftymen。InhiswayhestoppedatArtorinishinMorvern，wherehisunclewasprisonertoMacleod，andwasthenwithhisenemiesinatent。Macleantookwithhimonlyoneservant，whomheorderedtostayattheoutside；andwhereheshouldseethetentpressedoutwards，tostrikewithhisdirk，itbeingtheintentionofMaclean，asanymanprovokedhim，tolayhandsuponhim，andpushhimback。Heenteredthetentalone，withhisLochabar-axeinhishand，andstrucksuchterrorintothewholeassembly，thattheydismissedhisuncle。 WhenhelandedatCol，hesawthesentinel，whokeptwatchtowardsthesea，runningofftoGrissipol，togiveMacneil，whowastherewithahundredandtwentymen，anaccountoftheinvasion。HetoldMacgill，oneofhisfollowers，thatifheinterceptedthatdangerousintelligence，bycatchingthecourier，hewouldgivehimcertainlandsinMull。Uponthispromise，Macgillpursuedthemessenger，andeitherkilled，orstoppedhim；andhisposterity，tillverylately，heldthelandsinMull。 Thealarmbeingthusprevented，hecameunexpectedlyuponMacneil。 Chiefswereinthosedaysneverwhollyunprovidedforanenemy。A fightensued，inwhichoneoftheirfollowersissaidtohavegivenanextraordinaryproofofactivity，byboundingbackwardsoverthebrookofGrissipol。Macneilbeingkilled，andmanyofhisclandestroyed，MacleantookpossessionoftheIsland，whichtheMacneilsattemptedtoconquerbyanotherinvasion，butweredefeatedandrepulsed。 Maclean，inhisturn，invadedtheestateoftheMacneils，tookthecastleofBrecacig，andconqueredtheIsleofBarra，whichheheldforsevenyears，andthenrestoredittotheheirs。 CASTLEOFCOL FromGrissipol，Mr。Macleanconductedustohisfather\'sseat；aneatnewhouse，erectedneartheoldcastle，Ithink，bythelastproprietor。Herewewereallowedtotakeourstation，andlivedverycommodiously，whilewewaitedformoderateweatherandafairwind，whichwedidnotsosoonobtain，butwehadtimetogetsomeinformationofthepresentstateofCol，partlybyinquiry，andpartlybyoccasionalexcursions。 Coliscomputedtobethirteenmilesinlength，andthreeinbreadth。BoththeendsarethepropertyoftheDukeofArgyle，butthemiddlebelongstoMaclean，whoiscalledCol，astheonlyLaird。 Colisnotproperlyrocky；itisratheronecontinuedrock，ofasurfacemuchdiversifiedwithprotuberances，andcoveredwithathinlayerofearth，whichisoftenbroken，anddiscoversthestone。Suchasoilisnotforplantsthatstrikedeeproots；andperhapsinthewholeIslandnothinghaseveryetgrowntotheheightofatable。Theuncultivatedpartsareclothedwithheath，amongwhichindustryhasinterspersedspotsofgrassandcorn；butnoattempthasyetbeenmadetoraiseatree。YoungCol，whohasaverylaudabledesireofimprovinghispatrimony，purposessometimetoplantanorchard；which，ifitbeshelteredbyawall，mayperhapssucceed。Hehasintroducedthecultureofturnips，ofwhichhehasafield，wherethewholeworkwasperformedbyhisownhand。Hisintentionistoprovidefoodforhiscattleinthewinter。ThisinnovationwasconsideredbyMr。Macsweynastheidleprojectofayounghead，heatedwithEnglishfancies；buthehasnowfoundthatturnipswillreallygrow，andthathungrysheepandcowswillreallyeatthem。 Bysuchacquisitionsasthese，theHebridesmayintimeriseabovetheirannualdistress。Whereverheathwillgrow，thereisreasontothinksomethingbettermaydrawnourishment；andbytryingtheproductionofotherplaces，plantswillbefoundsuitabletoeverysoil。 Colhasmanylochs，someofwhichhavetroutsandeels，andothershaveneveryetbeenstocked；anotherproofofthenegligenceoftheIslanders，whomighttakefishintheinlandwaters，whentheycannotgotosea。 Theirquadrupedsarehorses，cows，sheep，andgoats。Theyhaveneitherdeer，hares，norrabbits。Theyhavenovermin，exceptrats，whichhavebeenlatelybroughtthitherbysea，astootherplaces；andarefreefromserpents，frogs，andtoads。 TheharvestinCol，andinLewis，isripesoonerthaninSky；andthewinterinColisnevercold，butverytempestuous。IknownotthatIeverheardthewindsoloudinanyotherplace；andMr。 Boswellobserved，thatitsnoisewasallitsown，fortherewerenotreestoincreaseit。 Noiseisnottheworsteffectofthetempests；fortheyhavethrownthesandfromtheshoreoveraconsiderablepartoftheland；anditissaidstilltoencroachanddestroymoreandmorepasture；butIamnotofopinion，thatbyanysurveysorlandmarks，itslimitshavebeeneverfixed，oritsprogressionascertained。Ifonemanhasconfidenceenoughtosay，thatitadvances，nobodycanbringanyprooftosupporthimindenyingit。Thereasonwhyitisnotspreadtoagreaterextent，seemstobe，thatthewindandraincomealmosttogether，andthatitismadecloseandheavybythewetbeforethestormscanputitinmotion。Sothickisthebed，andsosmalltheparticles，thatifatravellershouldbecaughtbyasuddengustindryweather，hewouldfinditverydifficulttoescapewithlife。 Fornaturalcuriosities，Iwasshownonlytwogreatmassesofstone，whichlielooseupontheground；oneonthetopofahill，andtheotheratasmalldistancefromthebottom。Theycertainlywereneverputintotheirpresentplacesbyhumanstrengthorskill；andthoughanearthquakemighthavebrokenoffthelowerstone，androlleditintothevalley，noaccountcanbegivenoftheother，whichliesonthehill，unless，whichIforgottoexamine，therebestillnearitsomehigherrock，fromwhichitmightbetorn。Allnationshaveatradition，thattheirearliestancestorsweregiants，andthesestonesaresaidtohavebeenthrownupanddownbyagiantandhismistress。Therearesomanymoreimportantthings，ofwhichhumanknowledgecangivenoaccount，thatitmaybeforgivenus，ifwespeculatenolongerontwostonesinCol。 ThisIslandisverypopulous。Aboutnine-and-twentyyearsago，thefenciblemenofColwerereckonedonehundredandforty，whichisthesixthofeighthundredandforty；andprobablysomecontrivedtobeleftoutofthelist。TheMinistertoldus，thatafewyearsagotheinhabitantswereeighthundred，betweentheagesofsevenandofseventy。Roundnumbersareseldomexact。Butinthiscasetheauthorityisgood，andtheerrourlikelytobelittle。Iftotheeighthundredbeaddedwhatthelawsofcomputationrequire，theywillbeincreasedtoatleastathousand；andifthedimensionsofthecountryhavebeenaccuratelyrelated，everymilemaintainsmorethantwenty-five。 Thisproportionofhabitationisgreaterthantheappearanceofthecountryseemstoadmit；forwherevertheeyewanders，itseesmuchwasteandlittlecultivation。Iammoreinclinedtoextendtheland，ofwhichnomeasurehaseverbeentaken，thantodiminishthepeople，whohavebeenreallynumbered。Letitbesupposed，thatacomputedmilecontainsamileandahalf，aswascommonlyfoundtrueinthemensurationoftheEnglishroads，andweshallthenallotnearlytwelvetoamile，whichagreesmuchbetterwithocularobservation。 Here，asinSky，andotherIslands，aretheLaird，theTacksmen，andtheundertenants。 Mr。Maclean，theLaird，hasveryextensivepossessions，beingproprietor，notonlyoffarthegreaterpartofCol，butoftheextensiveIslandofRum，andaveryconsiderableterritoryinMull。 RumisoneofthelargerIslands，almostsquare，andthereforeofgreatcapacityinproportiontoitssides。Bytheusualmethodofestimatingcomputedextent，itmaycontainmorethanahundredandtwentysquaremiles。 ItoriginallybelongedtoClanronald，andwaspurchasedbyCol； who，insomedisputeaboutthebargain，madeClanronaldprisoner，andkepthimninemonthsinconfinement。Itsownerrepresentsitasmountainous，rugged，andbarren。Inthehillstherearereddeer。Thehorsesareverysmall，butofabreedeminentforbeauty。Col，notlongago，boughtoneofthemfromatenant；whotoldhim，thatashewasofashapeuncommonlyelegant，hecouldnotsellhimbutatahighprice；andthatwhoeverhadhimshouldpayaguineaandahalf。 TherearesaidtobeinBarraaraceofhorsesyetsmaller，ofwhichthehighestisnotabovethirty-sixinches。 TherentofRumisnotgreat。Mr。Macleandeclared，thatheshouldbeveryrich，ifhecouldsethislandattwo-pencehalfpennyanacre。Theinhabitantsarefifty-eightfamilies，whocontinuedPapistsforsometimeaftertheLairdbecameaProtestant。TheiradherencetotheiroldreligionwasstrengthenedbythecountenanceoftheLaird\'ssister，azealousRomanist，tilloneSunday，astheyweregoingtomassundertheconductoftheirpatroness，Macleanmetthemontheway，gaveoneofthemablowontheheadwithayellowstick，Isupposeacane，forwhichtheEarsehadnoname，anddrovethemtothekirk，fromwhichtheyhaveneversincedeparted。Sincetheuseofthismethodofconversion，theinhabitantsofEggandCanna，whocontinuePapists，calltheProtestantismofRum，thereligionoftheYellowStick。 TheonlyPopishIslandsareEggandCanna。EggistheprincipalIslandofaparish，inwhich，thoughhehasnocongregation，theProtestantMinisterresides。Ihaveheardofnothingcuriousinit，butthecaveinwhichaformergenerationoftheIslandersweresmotheredbyMacleod。 Ifwehadtravelledwithmoreleisure，ithadnotbeenfittohaveneglectedthePopishIslands。Poperyisfavourabletoceremony； andamongignorantnations，ceremonyistheonlypreservativeoftradition。SinceprotestantismwasextendedtothesavagepartsofScotland，ithasperhapsbeenoneofthechieflaboursoftheMinisterstoabolishstatedobservances，becausetheycontinuedtheremembranceoftheformerreligion。Wethereforewhocametohearoldtraditions，andseeantiquatedmanners，shouldprobablyhavefoundthemamongstthePapists。 Canna，theotherPopishIsland，belongstoClanronald。Itissaidnottocomprisemorethantwelvemilesofland，andyetmaintainsasmanyinhabitantsasRum。 WewereatColundertheprotectionoftheyoungLaird，withoutanyofthedistresses，whichMr。Pennant，inafitofsimplecredulity，seemstothinkalmostworthyofanelegybyOssian。Whereverweroved，wewerepleasedtoseethereverencewithwhichhissubjectsregardedhim。Hedidnotendeavourtodazzlethembyanymagnificenceofdress:hisonlydistinctionwasafeatherinhisbonnet；butassoonasheappeared，theyforsooktheirworkandclusteredabouthim:hetookthembythehand，andtheyseemedmutuallydelighted。HehastheproperdispositionofaChieftain，andseemsdesiroustocontinuethecustomsofhishouse。Thebagpiperplayedregularly，whendinnerwasserved，whosepersonanddressmadeagoodappearance；andhebroughtnodisgraceuponthefamilyofRankin，whichhaslongsuppliedtheLairdsofColwithhereditarymusick。 TheTacksmenofColseemtolivewithlessdignityandconveniencethanthoseofSky；wheretheyhadgoodhouses，andtablesnotonlyplentiful，butdelicate。InColonlytwohousespaythewindowtax；foronlytwohavesixwindows，which，Isuppose，aretheLaird\'sandMr。Macsweyn\'s。 Therentshave，tillwithinsevenyears，beenpaidinkind，butthetenantsfindingthatcattleandcornvariedintheirprice，desiredforthefuturetogivetheirlandlordmoney；which，nothavingyetarrivedatthephilosophyofcommerce，theyconsiderasbeingeveryyearofthesamevalue。 Weweretoldofaparticularmodeofunder-tenure。TheTacksmanadmitssomeofhisinferiorneighbourstothecultivationofhisgrounds，onconditionthatperformingallthework，andgivingathirdpartoftheseed，theyshallkeepacertainnumberofcows，sheep，andgoats，andreapathirdpartoftheharvest。Thusbylessthanthetillageoftwoacrestheypaytherentofone。 TherearetenantsbelowtherankofTacksmen，thathavegotsmallertenantsunderthem；forineveryplace，wheremoneyisnotthegeneralequivalent，theremustbesomewhoselabourisimmediatelypaidbydailyfood。 Acountrythathasnomoney，isbynomeansconvenientforbeggars，bothbecausesuchcountriesarecommonlypoor，andbecausecharityrequiressometroubleandsomethought。Apennyiseasilygivenuponthefirstimpulseofcompassion，orimpatienceofimportunity； butfewwilldeliberatelysearchtheircupboardsortheirgranariestofindoutsomethingtogive。Apennyislikewiseeasilyspent，butvictuals，iftheyareunprepared，requirehouseroom，andfire，andutensils，whichthebeggarknowsnotwheretofind。 Yetbeggarstheresometimesare，whowanderfromIslandtoIsland。 Wehad，inourpassagetoMull，thecompanyofawomanandherchild，whohadexhaustedthecharityofCol。ThearrivalofabeggaronanIslandisaccountedasinistrousevent。Everybodyconsidersthatheshallhavethelessforwhathegivesaway。 Theiralms，Ibelieve，isgenerallyoatmeal。 NeartoColisanotherIslandcalledTireye，eminentforitsfertility。ThoughithasbuthalftheextentofRum，itissowellpeopled，thattherehaveappeared，notlongago，ninehundredandfourteenatafuneral。TheplentyofthisIslandenticedbeggarstoit，whoseemedsoburdensometotheinhabitants，thataformalcompactwasdrawnup，bywhichtheyobligedthemselvestograntnomorerelieftocasualwanderers，becausetheyhadamongthemanindigentwomanofhighbirth，whomtheyconsideredasentitledtoallthattheycouldspare。Ihavereadthestipulation，whichwasinditedwithjuridicalformality，butwasnevermadevalidbyregularsubscription。 IftheinhabitantsofColhavenothingtogive，itisnotthattheyareoppressedbytheirlandlord:theirleasesseemtobeveryprofitable。Onefarmer，whopaysonlysevenpoundsayear，hasmaintainedsevendaughtersandthreesons，ofwhomtheeldestiseducatedatAberdeenfortheministry；andnow，ateveryvacation，opensaschoolinCol。 Lifeishere，insomerespects，improvedbeyondtheconditionofsomeotherIslands。InSkywhatiswantedcanonlybebought，asthearrivalofsomewanderingpedlarmayaffordanopportunity；butinColthereisastandingshop，andinMulltherearetwo。AshopintheIslands，asinotherplacesoflittlefrequentation，isarepositoryofeverythingrequisiteforcommonuse。Mr。Boswell\'sjournalwasfilled，andheboughtsomepaperinCol。ToamanthatrangesthestreetsofLondon，whereheistemptedtocontrivewants，forthepleasureofsupplyingthem，ashopaffordsnoimageworthyofattention；butinanIsland，itturnsthebalanceofexistencebetweengoodandevil。Toliveinperpetualwantoflittlethings，isastatenotindeedoftorture，butofconstantvexation。IhaveinSkyhadsomedifficultytofindinkforaletter；andifawomanbreaksherneedle，theworkisatastop。 Asitis，theIslandersareobligedtocontentthemselveswithsuccedaneousmeansformanycommonpurposes。Ihaveseenthechiefmanofaverywidedistrictridingwithahalterforabridle，andgoverninghishobbywithawoodencurb。 ThepeopleofCol，however，donotwantdexteritytosupplysomeoftheirnecessities。Severalartswhichmaketrades，anddemandapprenticeshipsingreatcities，areherethepracticesofdailyeconomy。Ineveryhousecandlesaremade，bothmouldedanddipped。 Theirwicksaresmallshredsoflinencloth。TheyallknowhowtoextractfromtheCuddy，oilfortheirlamps。Theyalltanskins，andmakebrogues。 AswetravelledthroughSky，wesawmanycottages，buttheyveryfrequentlystoodsingleonthenakedground。InCol，wherethehillsopenedaplaceconvenientforhabitation，wefoundapettyvillage，ofwhicheveryhuthadalittlegardenadjoining；thustheymadeanappearanceofsocialcommerceandmutualoffices，andofsomeattentiontoconvenienceandfuturesupply。ThereisnotintheWesternIslandsanycollectionofbuildingsthatcanmakepretensionstobecalledatown，exceptintheIsleofLewis，whichIhavenotseen。 IfLewisisdistinguishedbyatown，Colhasalsosomethingpeculiar。TheyoungLairdhasattemptedwhatnoIslanderperhapseverthoughton。Hehasbegunaroadcapableofawheel-carriage。 Hehascarrieditaboutamile，andwillcontinueitbyannualelongationfromhishousetotheharbour。 Oftaxeshereisnoreasonforcomplaining；theyarepaidbyaveryeasycomposition。Themalt-taxforColistwentyshillings。 Whiskyisveryplentiful:thereareseveralstillsintheIsland，andmoreismadethantheinhabitantsconsume。 Thegreatbusinessofinsularpolicyisnowtokeepthepeopleintheirowncountry。Astheworldhasbeenletinuponthem，theyhaveheardofhappierclimates，andlessarbitrarygovernment；andiftheyaredisgusted，haveemissariesamongthemreadytoofferthemlandandhouses，asarewardfordesertingtheirChiefandclan。ManyhavedepartedbothfromthemainofScotland，andfromtheIslands；andallthatgomaybeconsideredassubjectslosttotheBritishcrown；foranationscatteredintheboundlessregionsofAmericaresemblesraysdivergingfromafocus。Alltheraysremain，buttheheatisgone。Theirpowerconsistedintheirconcentration:whentheyaredispersed，theyhavenoeffect。 Itmaybethoughtthattheyarehappierbythechange；buttheyarenothappyasanation，fortheyareanationnolonger。Astheycontributenottotheprosperityofanycommunity，theymustwantthatsecurity，thatdignity，thathappiness，whateveritbe，whichaprosperouscommunitythrowsbackuponindividuals。 TheinhabitantsofColhavenotyetlearnedtobewearyoftheirheathandrocks，butattendtheiragricultureandtheirdairies，withoutlisteningtoAmericanseducements。 Therearesomehoweverwhothinkthatthisemigrationhasraisedterrourdisproportionatetoitsrealevil；andthatitisonlyanewmodeofdoingwhatwasalwaysdone。TheHighlands，theysay，nevermaintainedtheirnaturalinhabitants；butthepeople，whentheyfoundthemselvestoonumerous，insteadofextendingcultivation，providedforthemselvesbyamorecompendiousmethod，andsoughtbetterfortuneinothercountries。Theydidnotindeedgoawayincollectivebodies，butwithdrewinvisibly，afewatatime；butthewholenumberoffugitiveswasnotless，andthedifferencebetweenothertimesandthis，isonlythesameasbetweenevaporationandeffusion。 Thisisplausible，butIamafraiditisnottrue。Thosewhowentbefore，iftheywerenotsensiblymissed，astheargumentsupposes，musthavegoneeitherinlessnumber，orinamannerlessdetrimental，thanatpresent；becauseformerlytherewasnocomplaint。Thosewhothenleftthecountryweregenerallytheidledependantsonoverburdenedfamilies，ormenwhohadnoproperty； andthereforecarriedawayonlythemselves。Inthepresenteagernessofemigration，families，andalmostcommunities，goawaytogether。Thosewhowereconsideredasprosperousandwealthyselltheirstockandcarryawaythemoney。Oncenonewentawaybuttheuselessandpoor；insomepartsthereisnowreasontofear，thatnonewillstaybutthosewhoaretoopoortoremovethemselves，andtoouselesstoberemovedatthecostofothers。 OfantiquitythereisnotmoreknowledgeinColthaninotherplaces；buteverywheresomethingmaybegleaned。 Howladieswereportioned，whentherewasnomoney，itwouldbedifficultforanEnglishmantoguess。In1649，MacleanofDronartinMullmarriedhissisterFingalatoMacleanofColl，withahundredandeightykine；andstipulated，thatifshebecameawidow，herjointureshouldbethreehundredandsixty。Isupposesomeproportionatetractoflandwasappropriatedtotheirpasturage。 Thedispositiontopompousandexpensivefunerals，whichhasatonetimeorotherprevailedinmostpartsofthecivilizedworld，isnotyetsuppressedintheIslands，thoughsomeoftheancientsolemnitiesarewornaway，andsingersarenolongerhiredtoattendtheprocession。Nineteenyearsago，attheburialoftheLairdofCol，werekilledthirtycows，andaboutfiftysheep。Thenumberofthecowsispositivelytold，andwemustsupposeothervictualsinlikeproportion。 Mr。Macleaninformedusofanoddgame，ofwhichhedidnottelltheoriginal，butwhichmayperhapsbeusedinotherplaces，wherethereasonofitisnotyetforgot。AtNew-year\'seve，inthehallorcastleoftheLaird，where，atfestalseasons，theremaybesupposedaverynumerouscompany，onemandresseshimselfinacow\'shide，uponwhichothermenbeatwithsticks。Herunswithallthisnoiseroundthehouse，whichallthecompanyquitsinacounterfeitedfright:thedooristhenshut。AtNew-year\'sevethereisnogreatpleasuretobehadoutofdoorsintheHebrides。 Theyaresuresoontorecoverfromtheirterrourenoughtosolicitforre-admission；which，forthehonourofpoetry，isnottobeobtainedbutbyrepeatingaverse，withwhichthosethatareknowingandprovidenttakecaretobefurnished。 VerynearthehouseofMacleanstandsthecastleofCol，whichwasthemansionoftheLaird，tillthehousewasbuilt。Itisbuiltuponarock，asMr。Boswellremarked，thatitmightnotbemined。 Itisverystrong，andhavingbeennotlonguninhabited，isyetinrepair。Onthewallwas，notlongago，astonewithaninscription，importing，that\'ifanymanoftheclanofMaclonichshallappearbeforethiscastle，thoughhecomeatmidnight，withaman\'sheadinhishand，heshalltherefindsafetyandprotectionagainstallbuttheKing。\' ThisisanoldHighlandtreatymadeuponaverymemorableoccasion。 Maclean，thesonofJohnGerves，whorecoveredCol，andconqueredBarra，hadobtained，itissaid，fromJamestheSecond，agrantofthelandsofLochiel，forfeited，Isuppose，bysomeoffenceagainstthestate。 Forfeitedestateswerenotinthosedaysquietlyresigned；Maclean，therefore，wentwithanarmedforcetoseizehisnewpossessions，and，Iknownotforwhatreason，tookhiswifewithhim。TheCameronsroseindefenceoftheirChief，andabattlewasfoughtattheheadofLochNess，neartheplacewhereFortAugustusnowstands，inwhichLochielobtainedthevictory，andMaclean，withhisfollowers，wasdefeatedanddestroyed。 Theladyfellintothehandsoftheconquerours，andbeingfoundpregnantwasplacedinthecustodyofMaclonich，oneofatribeorfamilybranchedfromCameron，withorders，ifshebroughtaboy，todestroyhim，ifagirl，tospareher。 Maclonich\'swife，whowaswithchildlikewise，hadagirlaboutthesametimeatwhichladyMacleanbroughtaboy，andMaclonichwithmoregenerositytohiscaptive，thanfidelitytohistrust，contrivedthatthechildrenshouldbechanged。 Macleanbeingthuspreservedfromdeath，intimerecoveredhisoriginalpatrimony；andingratitudetohisfriend，madehiscastleaplaceofrefugetoanyoftheclanthatshouldthinkhimselfindanger；and，asaproofofreciprocalconfidence，MacleantookuponhimselfandhisposteritythecareofeducatingtheheirofMaclonich。 Thisstory，likeallothertraditionsoftheHighlands，isvariouslyrelated，butthoughsomecircumstancesareuncertain，theprincipalfactistrue。MacleanundoubtedlyowedhispreservationtoMaclonich；forthetreatybetweenthetwofamilieshasbeenstrictlyobserved:itdidnotsinkintodisuseandoblivion，butcontinuedinitsfullforcewhilethechieftainsretainedtheirpower。Ihavereadademandofprotection，madenotmorethanthirty-sevenyearsago，foroneoftheMaclonichs，namedEwenCameron，whohadbeenaccessorytothedeathofMacmartin，andhadbeenbanishedbyLochiel，hislord，foracertainterm；attheexpirationofwhichhereturnedmarriedfromFrance，buttheMacmartins，notsatisfiedwiththepunishment，whenheattemptedtosettle，stillthreatenedhimwithvengeance。Hethereforeasked，andobtainedshelterintheIsleofCol。 Thepowerofprotectionsubsistsnolonger，butwhatthelawpermitsisyetcontinued，andMacleanofColnoweducatestheheirofMaclonich。 TherestillremainsintheIslands，thoughitispassingfastaway，thecustomoffosterage。ALaird，amanofwealthandeminence，sendshischild，eithermaleorfemale，toatacksman，ortenant，tobefostered。Itisnotalwayshisowntenant，butsomedistantfriendthatobtainsthishonour；foranhonoursuchatrustisveryreasonablythought。Thetermsoffosterageseemtovaryindifferentislands。InMull，thefathersendswithhischildacertainnumberofcows，towhichthesamenumberisaddedbythefosterer。Thefatherappropriatesaproportionableextentofground，withoutrent，fortheirpasturage。Ifeverycowbringsacalf，halfbelongstothefosterer，andhalftothechild；butiftherebeonlyonecalfbetweentwocows，itisthechild\'s，andwhenthechildreturnstotheparent，itisaccompaniedbyallthecowsgiven，bothbythefatherandbythefosterer，withhalfoftheincreaseofthestockbypropagation。Thesebeastsareconsideredasaportion，andcalledMacalivecattle，ofwhichthefatherhastheproduce，butissupposednottohavethefullproperty，buttoowethesamenumbertothechild，asaportiontothedaughter，orastockfortheson。 Childrencontinuewiththefostererperhapssixyears，andcannot，wherethisisthepractice，beconsideredasburdensome。Thefosterer，ifhegivesfourcows，receiveslikewisefour，andhas，whilethechildcontinueswithhim，grassforeightwithoutrent，withhalfthecalves，andallthemilk，forwhichhepaysonlyfourcowswhenhedismisseshisDalt，forthatisthenameforafosterchild。 Fosterageis，Ibelieve，sometimesperformeduponmoreliberalterms。Ourfriend，theyoungLairdofCol，wasfosteredbyMacsweynofGrissipol。MacsweynthenlivedatenanttoSirJamesMacdonaldintheIsleofSky；andthereforeCol，whetherhesenthimcattleornot，couldgranthimnoland。TheDalt，however，athisreturn，broughtbackaconsiderablenumberofMacalivecattle，andofthefriendshipsoformedtherehavebeengoodeffects。WhenMacdonaldraisedhisrents，Macsweynwas，likeothertenants，discontented，and，resigninghisfarm，removedfromSkytoCol，andwasestablishedatGrissipol。 TheseobservationswemadebyfavourofthecontrarywindthatdroveustoCol，anIslandnotoftenvisited；forthereisnotmuchtoamusecuriosity，ortoattractavarice。 Thegroundhasbeenhitherto，Ibelieve，usedchieflyforpasturage。Inadistrict，suchastheeyecancommand，thereisageneralherdsman，whoknowsallthecattleoftheneighbourhood，andwhosestationisuponahill，fromwhichhesurveysthelowergrounds；andifoneman\'scattleinvadeanother\'sgrass，drivesthembacktotheirownborders。Butothermeansofprofitbegintobefound；kelpisgatheredandburnt，andsloopsareloadedwiththeconcretedashes。Cultivationislikelytobeimprovedbytheskillandencouragementofthepresentheir，andtheinhabitantsofthoseobscurevallieswillpartakeofthegeneralprogressoflife。 TherentsofthepartswhichbelongtotheDukeofArgyle，havebeenraisedfromfifty-fivetoonehundredandfivepounds，whetherfromthelandortheseaIcannottell。Thebountiesoftheseahavelatelybeensogreat，thatafarminSouthuisthasrisenintenyearsfromarentofthirtypoundstoonehundredandeighty。 HewholivesinCol，andfindshimselfcondemnedtosolitarymeals，andincommunicablereflection，willfindtheusefulnessofthatmiddleorderofTacksmen，whichsomewhoapplaudtheirownwisdomarewishingtodestroy。Withoutintelligencemanisnotsocial，heisonlygregarious；andlittleintelligencewilltherebe，whereallareconstrainedtodailylabour，andeverymindmustwaituponthehand。 Afterhavinglistenedforsomedaystothetempest，andwanderedabouttheIslandtillourcuriositywassatisfied，webegantothinkaboutourdeparture。ToleaveColinOctoberwasnotveryeasy。Wehoweverfoundasloopwhichlayonthecoasttocarrykelp；andforapricewhichwethoughtlevieduponournecessities，themasteragreedtocarryustoMull，whencewemightreadilypassbacktoScotland。 MULL Asweweretocatchthefirstfavourablebreath，wespentthenightnotveryelegantlynorpleasantlyinthevessel，andwerelandednextdayatToborMorar，aportinMull，whichappearstoanunexperiencedeyeformedforthesecurityofships；foritsmouthisclosedbyasmallisland，whichadmitsthemthroughnarrowchannelsintoabasonsufficientlycapacious。Theyareindeedsafefromthesea，butthereisahollowbetweenthemountains，throughwhichthewindissuesfromthelandwithverymischievousviolence。 Therewasnodangerwhilewewerethere，andwefoundseveralothervesselsatanchor；sothattheporthadaverycommercialappearance。 TheyoungLairdofCol，whohaddeterminednottoletuslosehiscompany，whiletherewasanydifficultyremaining，cameoverwithus。Hisinfluencesoonappeared；forheprocuredushorses，andconductedustothehouseofDoctorMaclean，wherewefoundverykindentertainment，andverypleasingconversation。MissMaclean，whowasborn，andhadbeenbredatGlasgow，havingremovedwithherfathertoMull，addedtootherqualifications，agreatknowledgeoftheEarselanguage，whichshehadnotlearnedinherchildhood，butgainedbystudy，andwastheonlyinterpreterofEarsepoetrythatIcouldeverfind。 TheIsleofMullisperhapsinextentthethirdoftheHebrides。 Itisnotbrokenbywaters，norshotintopromontories，butisasolidandcompactmass，ofbreadthnearlyequaltoitslength。OfthedimensionsofthelargerIslands，thereisnoknowledgeapproachingtoexactness。Iamwillingtoestimateitascontainingaboutthreehundredsquaremiles。 MullhadsufferedlikeSkybytheblackwinterofseventy-one，inwhich，contrarytoallexperience，acontinuedfrostdetainedthesnoweightweeksupontheground。Againstacalamityneverknown，noprovisionhadbeenmade，andthepeoplecouldonlypineinhelplessmisery。Onetenantwasmentioned，whosecattleperishedtothevalueofthreehundredpounds；alosswhichprobablymorethanthelifeofmanisnecessarytorepair。Incountrieslikethese，thedescriptionsoffaminebecomeintelligible。Wherebyvigorousandartfulcultivationofasoilnaturallyfertile，thereiscommonlyasuperfluousgrowthbothofgrainandgrass；wherethefieldsarecrowdedwithcattle；andwhereeveryhandisabletoattractwealthfromadistance，bymakingsomethingthatpromotesease，orgratifiesvanity，adearyearproducesonlyacomparativewant，whichisratherseenthanfelt，andwhichterminatescommonlyinnoworseeffect，thanthatofcondemningthelowerordersofthecommunitytosacrificealittleluxurytoconvenience，oratmostalittleconveniencetonecessity。 Butwheretheclimateisunkind，andthegroundpenurious，sothatthemostfruitfulyearswillproduceonlyenoughtomaintainthemselves；wherelifeunimproved，andunadorned，fadesintosomethinglittlemorethannakedexistence，andeveryoneisbusyforhimself，withoutanyartsbywhichthepleasureofothersmaybeincreased；iftothedailyburdenofdistressanyadditionalweightbeadded，nothingremainsbuttodespairanddie。InMullthedisappointmentofaharvest，oramurrainamongthecattle，cutsofftheregularprovision；andtheywhohavenomanufacturescanpurchasenopartofthesuperfluitiesofothercountries。Theconsequenceofabadseasonisherenotscarcity，butemptiness； andtheywhoseplenty，wasbarelyasupplyofnaturalandpresentneed，whenthatslenderstockfails，mustperishwithhunger。 Alltravelhasitsadvantages。Ifthepassengervisitsbettercountries，hemaylearntoimprovehisown，andiffortunecarrieshimtoworse，hemaylearntoenjoyit。 Mr。Boswell\'scuriositystronglyimpelledhimtosurveyIona，orIcolmkil，whichwastotheearlyagesthegreatschoolofTheology，andissupposedtohavebeentheplaceofsepulturefortheancientkings。I，thoughlesseager，didnotopposehim。 Thatwemightperformthisexpedition，itwasnecessarytotraverseagreatpartofMull。WepassedadayatDr。Maclean\'s，andcouldhavebeenwellcontentedtostaylonger。ButColprovidedushorses，andwepursuedourjourney。Thiswasadayofinconvenience，forthecountryisveryrough，andmyhorsewasbutlittle。Wetravelledmanyhoursthroughatract，blackandbarren，inwhich，however，therewerethereliquesofhumanity；forwefoundaruinedchapelinourway。 Itisnatural，intraversingthisgloomofdesolation，toinquire，whethersomethingmaynotbedonetogivenatureamorecheerfulface，andwhetherthosehillsandmoorsthataffordheathcannotwithalittlecareandlabourbearsomethingbetter?Thefirstthoughtthatoccursistocoverthemwithtrees，forthatinmanyofthesenakedregionstreeswillgrow，isevident，becausestumpsandrootsareyetremaining；andthespeculatisthastilyproceedstocensurethatnegligenceandlazinessthathasomittedforsolongatimesoeasyanimprovement。 Todropseedsintotheground，andattendtheirgrowth，requireslittlelabourandnoskill。Hewhoremembersthatallthewoods，bywhichthewantsofmanhavebeensuppliedfromtheDelugetillnow，wereself-sown，willnoteasilybepersuadedtothinkalltheartandpreparationnecessary，whichtheGeorgickwritersprescribetoplanters。Treescertainlyhavecoveredtheearthwithverylittleculture。TheywavetheirtopsamongtherocksofNorway，andmightthriveaswellintheHighlandsandHebrides。 Butthereisafrightfulintervalbetweentheseedandtimber。Hethatcalculatesthegrowthoftrees，hastheunwelcomeremembranceoftheshortnessoflifedrivenharduponhim。Heknowsthatheisdoingwhatwillneverbenefithimself；andwhenherejoicestoseethestemrise，isdisposedtorepinethatanothershallcutitdown。 Plantationisnaturallytheemploymentofamindunburdenedwithcare，andvacanttofuturity，saturatedwithpresentgood，andatleisuretoderivegratificationfromtheprospectofposterity。Hethatpineswithhunger，isinlittlecarehowothersshallbefed。 Thepoormanisseldomstudioustomakehisgrandsonrich。Itmaybesoondiscovered，whyinaplace，whichhardlysuppliesthecravingsofnecessity，therehasbeenlittleattentiontothedelightsoffancy，andwhydistantconvenienceisunregarded，wherethethoughtsareturnedwithincessantsolicitudeuponeverypossibilityofimmediateadvantage。 Neitherisitquitesoeasytoraiselargewoods，asmaybeconceived。Treesintendedtoproducetimbermustbesownwheretheyaretogrow；andgroundsownwithtreesmustbekeptuselessforalongtime，inclosedatanexpencefromwhichmanywillbediscouragedbytheremotenessoftheprofit，andwatchedwiththatattention，which，inplaceswhereitismostneeded，willneitherbegivennorbought。Thatitcannotbeplowedisevident；andifcattlebesufferedtograzeuponit，theywilldevourtheplantsasfastastheyrise。Evenincoarsercountries，whereherdsandflocksarenotfed，notonlythedeerandthewildgoatswillbrowseuponthem，butthehareandrabbitwillnibblethem。Itisthereforereasonabletobelieve，whatIdonotrememberanynaturalisttohaveremarked，thattherewasatimewhentheworldwasverythinlyinhabitedbybeasts，aswellasmen，andthatthewoodshadleisuretorisehighbeforeanimalshadbrednumberssufficienttointerceptthem。 SirJamesMacdonald，inpartofthewastesofhisterritory，setorsowedtrees，tothenumber，asIhavebeentold，ofseveralmillions，expecting，doubtless，thattheywouldgrowupintofuturenaviesandcities；butforwantofinclosure，andofthatcarewhichisalwaysnecessary，andwillhardlyeverbetaken，allhiscostandlabourhavebeenlost，andthegroundislikelytocontinueanuselessheath。 HavingnotanyexperienceofajourneyinMull，wehadnodoubtofreachingtheseabyday-light，andthereforehadnotleftDr。 Maclean\'sveryearly。Wetravelleddiligentlyenough，butfoundthecountry，forroadtherewasnone，verydifficulttopass。Wewerealwaysstrugglingwithsomeobstructionorother，andourvexationwasnotbalancedbyanygratificationoftheeyeormind。 Wewerenowlongenoughacquaintedwithhillsandheathtohavelosttheemotionthattheyonceraised，whetherpleasingorpainful，andhadourmindemployedonlyonourownfatigue。Wewerehoweversure，underCol\'sprotection，ofescapingallrealevils。TherewasnohouseinMulltowhichhecouldnotintroduceus。Hehadintendedtolodgeus，forthatnight，withagentlemanthatliveduponthecoast，butdiscoveredontheway，thathethenlayinbedwithouthopeoflife。 Weresolvednottoembarrassafamily，inatimeofsomuchsorrow，ifanyotherexpedientcouldhefound；andastheIslandofUlvawasover-againstus，itwasdeterminedthatweshouldpassthestraitandhaverecoursetotheLaird，who，liketheothergentlemenoftheIslands，wasknowntoCol。Weexpectedtofindaferry-boat，butwhenatlastwecametothewater，theboatwasgone。 Wewerenowagainatastop。ItwasthesixteenthofOctober，atimewhenitisnotconvenienttosleepintheHebrideswithoutacover，andtherewasnohousewithinourreach，butthatwhichwehadalreadydeclined。 ULVA Whilewestooddeliberating，wewerehappilyespiedfromanIrishship，thatlayatanchorinthestrait。Themastersawthatwewantedapassage，andwithgreatcivilitysentushisboat，whichquicklyconveyedustoUlva，wherewewereveryliberallyentertainedbyMr。Macquarry。 ToUlvawecameinthedark，andleftitbeforenoonthenextday。 Averyexactdescriptionthereforewillnotbeexpected。Weweretold，thatitisanIslandofnogreatextent，roughandbarren，inhabitedbytheMacquarrys；aclannotpowerfulnornumerous，butofantiquity，whichmostotherfamiliesarecontenttoreverence。 Thenameissupposedtobeadepravationofsomeother；fortheEarselanguagedoesnotafforditanyetymology。MacquarryisproprietorbothofUlvaandsomeadjacentIslands，amongwhichisStaffa，solatelyraisedtorenownbyMr。Banks。 WhentheIslanderswerereproachedwiththeirignorance，orinsensibilityofthewondersofStaffa，theyhadnotmuchtoreply。 Theyhadindeedconsidereditlittle，becausetheyhadalwaysseenit；andnonebutphilosophers，northeyalways，arestruckwithwonder，otherwisethanbynovelty。Howwoulditsurpriseanunenlightenedploughman，tohearacompanyofsobermen，inquiringbywhatpowerthehandtossesastone，orwhythestone，whenitistossed，fallstotheground! OftheancestorsofMacquarry，whothuslieshidinhisunfrequentedIsland，Ihavefoundmemorialsinallplaceswheretheycouldbeexpected。 Inquiringafterthereliquesofformermanners，IfoundthatinUlva，and，Ithink，nowhereelse，iscontinuedthepaymentoftheMerchetaMulierum；afineinoldtimesduetotheLairdatthemarriageofavirgin。Theoriginalofthisclaim，asofourtenureofBoroughEnglish，isvariouslydelivered。Itispleasanttofindancientcustomsinoldfamilies。Thispayment，likeothers，was，forwantofmoney，madeancientlyintheproduceoftheland。 Macquarrywasusedtodemandasheep，forwhichhenowtakesacrown，bythatinattentiontotheuncertainproportionbetweenthevalueandthedenominationofmoney，whichhasbroughtmuchdisorderintoEurope。Asheephasalwaysthesamepowerofsupplyinghumanwants，butacrownwillbringatonetimemore，atanotherless。 Ulvawasnotneglectedbythepietyofardenttimes:ithasstilltoshowwhatwasonceachurch。 INCHKENNETH Inthemorningwewentagainintotheboat，andwerelandedonInchKenneth，anIslandaboutamilelong，andperhapshalfamilebroad，remarkableforpleasantnessandfertility。Itisverdantandgrassy，andfitbothforpastureandtillage；butithasnotrees。ItsonlyinhabitantswereSirAllanMacleanandtwoyoungladies，hisdaughters，withtheirservants。 RomancedoesnotoftenexhibitascenethatstrikestheimaginationmorethanthislittledesertinthesedepthsofWesternobscurity，occupiednotbyagrossherdsman，oramphibiousfisherman，butbyagentlemanandtwoladies，ofhighbirth，polishedmannersandelegantconversation，who，inahabitationraisednotveryfarabovetheground，butfurnishedwithunexpectedneatnessandconvenience，practisedallthekindnessofhospitality，andrefinementofcourtesy。 SirAllanistheChieftainofthegreatclanofMaclean，whichissaidtoclaimthesecondplaceamongtheHighlandfamilies，yieldingonlytoMacdonald。Thoughbythemisconductofhisancestors，mostoftheextensiveterritory，whichwouldhavedescendedtohim，hasbeenalienated，hestillretainsmuchofthedignityandauthorityofhisbirth。WhensoldierswerelatelywantingfortheAmericanwar，applicationwasmadetoSirAllan，andhenominatedahundredmenfortheservice，whoobeyedthesummons，andborearmsunderhiscommand。 Hehadthen，forsometime，residedwiththeyoungladiesinInchKenneth，wherehelivesnotonlywithplenty，butwithelegance，havingconveyedtohiscottageacollectionofbooks，andwhatelseisnecessarytomakehishourspleasant。 Whenwelanded，weweremetbySirAllanandtheLadies，accompaniedbyMissMacquarry，whohadpassedsometimewiththem，andnowreturnedtoUlvawithherfather。 Weallwalkedtogethertothemansion，wherewefoundonecottageforSirAllan，andIthinktwomoreforthedomesticksandtheoffices。Weentered，andwantedlittlethatpalacesafford。Ourroomwasneatlyfloored，andwelllighted；andourdinner，whichwasdressedinoneoftheotherhuts，wasplentifulanddelicate。 IntheafternoonSirAllanremindedus，thatthedaywasSunday，whichheneversufferedtopasswithoutsomereligiousdistinction，andinvitedustopartakeinhisactsofdomestickworship；whichI hopeneitherMr。Boswellnormyselfwillbesuspectedofadispositiontorefuse。TheelderoftheLadiesreadtheEnglishservice。 InchKennethwasonceaseminaryofecclesiasticks，subordinate，I suppose，toIcolmkill。SirAllanhadamindtotracethefoundationsofthecollege，butneitherInorMr。Boswell，whobendsakeenereyeonvacancy，wereabletoperceivethem。 Ourattention，however，wassufficientlyengagedbyavenerablechapel，whichstandsyetentire，exceptthattheroofisgone。Itisaboutsixtyfeetinlength，andthirtyinbreadth。OnonesideofthealtarisabasreliefoftheblessedVirgin，andbyitliesalittlebell；which，thoughcracked，andwithoutaclapper，hasremainedthereforages，guardedonlybythevenerablenessoftheplace。Thegroundroundthechapeliscoveredwithgrave-stonesofChiefsandladies；andstillcontinuestobeaplaceofsepulture。 InchKennethisaproperpreludetoIcolmkill。Itwasnotwithoutsomemournfulemotionthatwecontemplatedtheruinsofreligiousstructuresandthemonumentsofthedead。 Onthenextdaywetookamoredistinctviewoftheplace，andwentwiththeboattoseeoystersinthebed，outofwhichtheboat-menforcedupasmanyaswerewanted。EvenInchKennethhasasubordinateIsland，namedSandiland，Isupposeincontempt，wherewelanded，andfoundarock，withasurfaceofperhapsfouracres，ofwhichoneisnakedstone，anotherspreadwithsandandshells，someofwhichIpickedupfortheirglossybeauty，andtwocoveredwithalittleearthandgrass，onwhichSirAllanhasafewsheep。