第3章

Thisisnotthedescriptionofacruelclimate，yetthedarkmonthsarehereatimeofgreatdistress；becausethesummercandolittlemorethanfeeditself，andwintercomeswithitscoldanditsscarcityuponfamiliesveryslenderlyprovided。 CORIATACHANINSKY ThethirdorfourthdayafterourarrivalatArmidel，broughtusaninvitationtotheisleofRaasay，whichlieseastofSky。Itisincrediblehowsoontheaccountofanyeventispropagatedinthesenarrowcountriesbytheloveoftalk，whichmuchleisureproduces，andthereliefgiventothemindinthepenuryofinsularconversationbyanewtopick。Thearrivalofstrangersataplacesorarelyvisited，excitesrumour，andquickenscuriosity。Iknownotwhetherwetouchedatanycorner，whereFamehadnotalreadypreparedusareception。 TogainacommodiouspassagetoRaasay，itwasnecessarytopassoveralargepartofSky。Wewerefurnishedthereforewithhorsesandaguide。IntheIslandstherearenoroads，noranymarksbywhichastrangermayfindhisway。Thehorsemanhasalwaysathissideanativeoftheplace，who，bypursuinggame，ortendingcattle，orbeingoftenemployedinmessagesorconduct，haslearnedwheretheridgeofthehillhasbreadthsufficienttoallowahorseandhisriderapassage，andwherethemossorbogishardenoughtobearthem。Thebogsareavoidedastoilsomeatleast，ifnotunsafe，andthereforethejourneyismadegenerallyfromprecipicetoprecipice；fromwhichiftheeyeventurestolookdown，itseesbelowagloomycavity，whencetherushofwaterissometimesheard。 Butthereseemstobeinallthismorealarmthandanger。TheHighlanderwalkscarefullybefore，andthehorse，accustomedtotheground，followshimwithlittledeviation。Sometimesthehillistoosteepforthehorsemantokeephisseat，andsometimesthemossistootremuloustobearthedoubleweightofhorseandman。Theriderthendismounts，andallshiftastheycan。 Journiesmadeinthismannerarerathertediousthanlong。Averyfewmilesrequireseveralhours。FromArmidelwecameatnighttoCoriatachan，ahouseverypleasantlysituatedbetweentwobrooks，withoneofthehighesthillsoftheislandbehindit。ItistheresidenceofMr。Mackinnon，bywhomweweretreatedwithveryliberalhospitality，amongamorenumerousandelegantcompanythanitcouldhavebeensupposedeasytocollect。 Thehillbehindthehousewedidnotclimb。Theweatherwasrough，andtheheightandsteepnessdiscouragedus。Weweretoldthatthereisacairneuponit。Acairneisaheapofstonesthrownuponthegraveofoneeminentfordignityofbirth，orsplendourofatchievements。Itissaidthatbydigging，anurnisalwaysfoundunderthesecairnes:theymustthereforehavebeenthuspiledbyapeoplewhosecustomwastoburnthedead。Topilestonesis，I believe，anortherncustom，andtoburnthebodywastheRomanpractice；nordoIknowwhenitwasthatthesetwoactsofsepulturewereunited。 Theweatherwasnextdaytooviolentforthecontinuationofourjourney；butwehadnoreasontocomplainoftheinterruption。Wesawineveryplace，whatwechieflydesiredtoknow，themannersofthepeople。Wehadcompany，and，ifwehadchosenretirement，wemighthavehadbooks。 IneverwasinanyhouseoftheIslands，whereIdidnotfindbooksinmorelanguagesthanone，ifIstaidlongenoughtowantthem，exceptonefromwhichthefamilywasremoved。LiteratureisnotneglectedbythehigherrankoftheHebridians。 Itneednot，Isuppose，bementioned，thatincountriessolittlefrequentedastheIslands，therearenohouseswheretravellersareentertainedformoney。Hethatwandersaboutthesewilds，eitherprocuresrecommendationstothosewhosehabitationslienearhisway，or，whennightandwearinesscomeuponhim，takesthechanceofgeneralhospitality。Ifhefindsonlyacottage，hecanexpectlittlemorethanshelter；forthecottagershavelittlemoreforthemselves:butifhisgoodfortunebringshimtotheresidenceofagentleman，hewillbegladofastormtoprolonghisstay。Thereis，however，oneinnbythesea-sideatSconsor，inSky，wherethepost-officeiskept。 Atthetableswhereastrangerisreceived，neitherplentynordelicacyiswanting。Atractoflandsothinlyinhabited，musthavemuchwild-fowl；andIscarcelyremembertohaveseenadinnerwithoutthem。Themoorgameiseverywheretobehad。Thattheseaaboundswithfish，needsnotbetold，foritsuppliesagreatpartofEurope。TheIsleofSkyhasstagsandroebucks，butnohares。 TheysellverynumerousdrovesofoxenyearlytoEngland，andthereforecannotbesupposedtowantbeefathome。Sheepandgoatsareingreatnumbers，andtheyhavethecommondomestickfowls。 Butashereisnothingtobebought，everyfamilymustkillitsownmeat，androastpartofitsomewhatsoonerthanApiciuswouldprescribe。EverykindoffleshisundoubtedlyexcelledbythevarietyandemulationofEnglishmarkets；butthatwhichisnotbestmaybeyetveryfarfrombad，andhethatshallcomplainofhisfareintheHebrides，hasimprovedhisdelicacymorethanhismanhood。 TheirfowlsarenotlikethoseplumpedforsalebythepoulterersofLondon，buttheyareasgoodasotherplacescommonlyafford，exceptthatthegeese，byfeedinginthesea，haveuniversallyafishyrankness。 Thesegeeseseemtobeofamiddlerace，betweenthewildanddomestickkinds。Theyaresotameastoownahome，andsowildassometimestoflyquiteaway。 Theirnativebreadismadeofoats，orbarley。Ofoatmealtheyspreadverythincakes，coarseandhard，towhichunaccustomedpalatesarenoteasilyreconciled。Thebarleycakesarethickerandsofter；Ibegantoeatthemwithoutunwillingness；theblacknessoftheircolourraisessomedislike，butthetasteisnotdisagreeable。Inmosthousesthereiswheatflower，withwhichweweresuretobetreated，ifwestaidlongenoughtohaveitkneadedandbaked。Asneitheryeastnorleavenareusedamongthem，theirbreadofeverykindisunfermented。Theymakeonlycakes，andnevermouldaloaf。 AmanoftheHebrides，forofthewomen\'sdietIcangivenoaccount，assoonasheappearsinthemorning，swallowsaglassofwhisky；yettheyarenotadrunkenrace，atleastIneverwaspresentatmuchintemperance；butnomanissoabstemiousastorefusethemorningdram，whichtheycallaskalk。 Thewordwhiskysignifieswater，andisappliedbywayofeminencetostrongwater，ordistilledliquor。ThespiritdrunkintheNorthisdrawnfrombarley。Inevertastedit，exceptonceforexperimentattheinninInverary，whenIthoughtitpreferabletoanyEnglishmaltbrandy。Itwasstrong，butnotpungent，andwasfreefromtheempyreumaticktasteorsmell。WhatwastheprocessI hadnoopportunityofinquiring，nordoIwishtoimprovetheartofmakingpoisonpleasant。 Notlongafterthedram，maybeexpectedthebreakfast，amealinwhichtheScots，whetherofthelowlandsormountains，mustbeconfessedtoexcelus。Theteaandcoffeeareaccompaniednotonlywithbutter，butwithhoney，conserves，andmarmalades。Ifanepicurecouldremovebyawish，inquestofsensualgratifications，whereverhehadsuppedhewouldbreakfastinScotland。 Intheislandshowever，theydowhatIfounditnotveryeasytoendure。Theypollutethetea-tablebyplatespiledwithlargeslicesofcheshirecheese，whichminglesitslessgratefulodourswiththefragranceofthetea。 Wheremanyquestionsaretobeasked，somewillbeomitted。I forgottoinquirehowtheyweresuppliedwithsomuchexoticluxury。PerhapstheFrenchmaybringthemwineforwool，andtheDutchgivethemteaandcoffeeatthefishingseason，inexchangeforfreshprovision。Theirtradeisunconstrained；theypaynocustoms，forthereisnoofficertodemandthem；whateverthereforeismadedearonlybyimpost，isobtainedhereataneasyrate。 AdinnerintheWesternIslandsdiffersverylittlefromadinnerinEngland，exceptthatintheplaceoftarts，therearealwayssetdifferentpreparationsofmilk。Thispartoftheirdietwilladmitsomeimprovement。Thoughtheyhavemilk，andeggs，andsugar，fewofthemknowhowtocompoundtheminacustard。Theirgardensaffordthemnogreatvariety，buttheyhavealwayssomevegetablesonthetable。Potatoesatleastareneverwanting，which，thoughtheyhavenotknownthemlong，arenowoneoftheprincipalpartsoftheirfood。Theyarenotofthemealy，buttheviscouskind。 Theirmoreelaboratecookery，ormadedishes，anEnglishmanatthefirsttasteisnotlikelytoapprove，buttheculinarycompositionsofeverycountryareoftensuchasbecomegratefultoothernationsonlybydegrees；thoughIhavereadaFrenchauthor，who，intheelationofhisheart，says，thatFrenchcookerypleasesallforeigners，butforeigncookeryneversatisfiesaFrenchman。 Theirsuppersare，liketheirdinners，variousandplentiful。Thetableisalwayscoveredwithelegantlinen。Theirplatesforcommonuseareoftenofthatkindofmanufacturewhichiscalledcreamcoloured，orqueen\'sware。TheyusesilveronalloccasionswhereitiscommoninEngland，nordidIeverfindthespoonofhorn，butinonehouse。 Theknivesarenotofteneitherverybright，orverysharp。TheyareindeedinstrumentsofwhichtheHighlandershavenotbeenlongacquaintedwiththegeneraluse。Theywerenotregularlylaidonthetable，beforetheprohibitionofarms，andthechangeofdress。 ThirtyyearsagotheHighlanderworehisknifeasacompaniontohisdirkordagger，andwhenthecompanysatdowntomeat，themenwhohadknives，cutthefleshintosmallpiecesforthewomen，whowiththeirfingersconveyedittotheirmouths。 Therewasperhapsneveranychangeofnationalmannerssoquick，sogreat，andsogeneral，asthatwhichhasoperatedintheHighlands，bythelastconquest，andthesubsequentlaws。Wecamethithertoolatetoseewhatweexpected，apeopleofpeculiarappearance，andasystemofantiquatedlife。Theclansretainlittlenowoftheiroriginalcharacter，theirferocityoftemperissoftened，theirmilitaryardourisextinguished，theirdignityofindependenceisdepressed，theircontemptofgovernmentsubdued，andthereverencefortheirchiefsabated。Ofwhattheyhadbeforethelateconquestoftheircountry，thereremainonlytheirlanguageandtheirpoverty。Theirlanguageisattackedoneveryside。Schoolsareerected，inwhichEnglishonlyistaught，andtherewerelatelysomewhothoughtitreasonabletorefusethemaversionoftheholyscriptures，thattheymighthavenomonumentoftheirmother- tongue。 Thattheirpovertyisgraduallyabated，cannotbementionedamongtheunpleasingconsequencesofsubjection。Theyarenowacquaintedwithmoney，andthepossibilityofgainwillbydegreesmakethemindustrious。Suchistheeffectofthelateregulations，thatalongerjourneythantotheHighlandsmustbetakenbyhimwhosecuriositypantsforsavagevirtuesandbarbarousgrandeur。 RAASAY Atthefirstintermissionofthestormyweatherwewereinformed，thattheboat，whichwastoconveyustoRaasay，attendedusonthecoast。Wehadfromthistimeourintelligencefacilitated，andourconversationenlarged，bythecompanyofMr。Macqueen，ministerofaparishinSky，whoseknowledgeandpolitenessgivehimatitleequallytokindnessandrespect，andwho，fromthistime，neverforsookustillwewerepreparingtoleaveSky，andtheadjacentplaces。 TheboatwasunderthedirectionofMr。MalcolmMacleod，agentlemanofRaasay。Thewaterwascalm，andtherowerswerevigorous；sothatourpassagewasquickandpleasant。Whenwecameneartheisland，wesawthelaird\'shouse，aneatmodernfabrick，andfoundMr。Macleod，theproprietoroftheIsland，withmanygentlemen，expectingusonthebeach。Wehad，asatallotherplaces，somedifficultyinlanding。Thecraggswereirregularlybroken，andafalsestepwouldhavebeenverymischievous。 Itseemedthattherocksmight，withnogreatlabour，havebeenhewnalmostintoaregularflightofsteps；andastherearenootherlandingplaces，Iconsideredthisruggedascentastheconsequenceofaformoflifeinuredtohardships，andthereforenotstudiousofniceaccommodations。ButIknownotwhether，formanyages，itwasnotconsideredasapartofmilitarypolicy，tokeepthecountrynoteasilyaccessible。Therocksarenaturalfortifications，andanenemyclimbingwithdifficulty，waseasilydestroyedbythosewhostoodhighabovehim。 Ourreceptionexceededourexpectations。Wefoundnothingbutcivility，elegance，andplenty。Aftertheusualrefreshments，andtheusualconversation，theeveningcameuponus。Thecarpetwasthenrolledoffthefloor；themusicianwascalled，andthewholecompanywasinvitedtodance，nordideverfairiestripwithgreateralacrity。Thegeneralairoffestivity，whichpredominatedinthisplace，sofarremotefromallthoseregionswhichthemindhasbeenusedtocontemplateasthemansionsofpleasure，strucktheimaginationwithadelightfulsurprise，analogoustothatwhichisfeltatanunexpectedemersionfromdarknessintolight。 Whenitwastimetosup，thedanceceased，andsixandthirtypersonssatdowntotwotablesinthesameroom。AftersuppertheladiessungErsesongs，towhichIlistenedasanEnglishaudiencetoanItalianopera，delightedwiththesoundofwordswhichIdidnotunderstand。 Iinquiredthesubjectsofthesongs，andwastoldofone，thatitwasalovesong，andofanother，thatitwasafarewellcomposedbyoneoftheIslandersthatwasgoing，inthisepidemicalfuryofemigration，toseekhisfortuneinAmerica。Whatsentimentswouldarise，onsuchanoccasion，intheheartofonewhohadnotbeentaughttolamentbyprecedent，Ishouldgladlyhaveknown；butthelady，bywhomIsat，thoughtherselfnotequaltotheworkoftranslating。 Mr。MacleodistheproprietoroftheislandsofRaasay，Rona，andFladda，andpossessesanextensivedistrictinSky。Theestatehasnot，duringfourhundredyears，gainedorlostasingleacre。HeacknowledgesMacleodofDunveganashischief，thoughhisancestorshaveformerlydisputedthepre-eminence。 OneoftheoldHighlandallianceshascontinuedfortwohundredyears，andisstillsubsistingbetweenMacleodofRaasayandMacdonaldofSky，inconsequenceofwhich，thesurvivoralwaysinheritsthearmsofthedeceased；anaturalmemorialofmilitaryfriendship。AtthedeathofthelateSirJamesMacdonald，hisswordwasdeliveredtothepresentlairdofRaasay。 ThefamilyofRaasayconsistsofthelaird，thelady，threesonsandtendaughters。Forthesonsthereisatutorinthehouse，andtheladyissaidtobeveryskilfulanddiligentintheeducationofhergirls。Moregentlenessofmanners，oramorepleasingappearanceofdomesticksociety，isnotfoundinthemostpolishedcountries。 RaasayistheonlyinhabitedislandinMr。Macleod\'spossession。 RonaandFladdaaffordonlypastureforcattle，ofwhichonehundredandsixtywinterinRona，underthesuperintendenceofasolitaryherdsman。 ThelengthofRaasayis，bycomputation，fifteenmiles，andthebreadthtwo。Thesecountrieshaveneverbeenmeasured，andthecomputationbymilesisnegligentandarbitrary。Weobservedintravelling，thatthenominalandrealdistanceofplaceshadverylittlerelationtoeachother。Raasayprobablycontainsnearahundredsquaremiles。Itaffordsnotmuchground，notwithstandingitsextent，eitherfortillage，orpasture；foritisrough，rocky，andbarren。Thecattleoftenperishbyfallingfromtheprecipices。Itisliketheotherislands，Ithink，generallynakedofshade，butitisnakedbyneglect；forthelairdhasanorchard，andverylargeforesttreesgrowabouthishouse。Likeotherhillycountriesithasmanyrivulets。Oneofthebrooksturnsacorn- mill，andatleastoneproducestrouts。 InthestreamsorfreshlakesoftheIslands，Ihaveneverheardofanyotherfishthantroutsandeels。Thetrouts，whichIhaveseen，arenotlarge；thecolouroftheirfleshistingedasinEngland。OftheireelsIcangivenoaccount，havingnevertastedthem；forIbelievetheyarenotconsideredaswholesomefood。 Itisnotveryeasytofixtheprinciplesuponwhichmankindhaveagreedtoeatsomeanimals，andrejectothers；andastheprincipleisnotevident，itisnotuniform。Thatwhichisselectedasdelicateinonecountry，isbyitsneighboursabhorredasloathsome。TheNeapolitanslatelyrefusedtoeatpotatoesinafamine。AnEnglishmanisnoteasilypersuadedtodineonsnailswithanItalian，onfrogswithaFrenchman，oronhorsefleshwithaTartar。ThevulgarinhabitantsofSky，Iknownotwhetheroftheotherislands，havenotonlyeels，butporkandbaconinabhorrence，andaccordinglyIneversawahogintheHebrides，exceptoneatDunvegan。 Raasayhaswildfowlinabundance，butneitherdeer，hares，norrabbits。Whyithasthemnot，mightbeasked，butthatofsuchquestionsthereisnoend。Whydoesanynationwantwhatitmighthave?WhyarenotspicestransplantedtoAmerica?WhydoesteacontinuetobebroughtfromChina?Lifeimprovesbutbyslowdegrees，andmuchineveryplaceisyettodo。AttemptshavebeenmadetoraiseroebucksinRaasay，butwithouteffect。Theyoungonesitisextremelydifficulttorear，andtheoldcanveryseldombetakenalive。 Haresandrabbitsmightbemoreeasilyobtained。ThattheyhavefewornoneofeitherinSky，theyimputetotheravageofthefoxes，andhavethereforeset，forsomeyearspast，apriceupontheirheads，which，asthenumberwasdiminished，hasbeengraduallyraised，fromthreeshillingsandsixpencetoaguinea，asumsogreatinthispartoftheworld，that，inashorttime，Skymaybeasfreefromfoxes，asEnglandfromwolves。Thefundfortheserewardsisataxofsixpenceinthepound，imposedbythefarmersonthemselves，andsaidtobepaidwithgreatwillingness。 ThebeastsofpreyintheIslandsarefoxes，otters，andweasels。 ThefoxesarebiggerthanthoseofEngland；buttheottersexceedoursinafargreaterproportion。IsawoneatArmidel，ofasizemuchbeyondthatwhichIsupposedthemevertoattain；andMr。 Maclean，theheirofCol，amanofmiddlestature，informedmethatheonceshotanotter，ofwhichthetailreachedtheground，whenhehelduptheheadtoalevelwithhisown。Iexpectedtheottertohaveafootparticularlyformedfortheartofswimming；butuponexamination，Ididnotfinditdifferingmuchfromthatofaspaniel。Ashepreysinthesea，hedoeslittlevisiblemischief，andiskilledonlyforhisfur。Whiteottersaresometimesseen。 InRaasaytheymighthaveharesandrabbits，fortheyhavenofoxes。Somedepredations，suchaswerenevermadebefore，havecausedasuspicionthatafoxhasbeenlatelylandedintheIslandbyspiteorwantonness。Thisimaginarystrangerhasneveryetbeenseen，andtherefore，perhaps，themischiefwasdonebysomeotheranimal。Itisnotlikelythatacreaturesoungentle，whoseheadcouldhavebeensoldinSkyforaguinea，shouldbekeptaliveonlytogratifythemaliceofsendinghimtopreyuponaneighbour:andthepassagefromSkyiswiderthanafoxwouldventuretoswim，unlesshewerechasedbydogsintothesea，andperhapsthanhisstrengthwouldenablehimtocross。Howbeastsofpreycameintoanyislandsisnoteasytoguess。Incoldcountriestheytakeadvantageofhardwinters，andtravelovertheice:butthisisaveryscantysolution；fortheyarefoundwheretheyhavenodiscoverablemeansofcoming。 Thecornofthisislandisbutlittle。Isawtheharvestofasmallfield。ThewomenreapedtheCorn，andthemenboundupthesheaves。Thestrokesofthesickleweretimedbythemodulationoftheharvestsong，inwhichalltheirvoiceswereunited。TheyaccompanyintheHighlandseveryaction，whichcanbedoneinequaltime，withanappropriatedstrain，whichhas，theysay，notmuchmeaning；butitseffectsareregularityandcheerfulness。Theancientproceleusmaticksong，bywhichtherowersofgallieswereanimated，maybesupposedtohavebeenofthiskind。Thereisnowanoar-songusedbytheHebridians。 ThegroundofRaasayseemsfitterforcattlethanforcorn，andofblackcattleIsupposethenumberisverygreat。TheLairdhimselfkeepsaherdoffourhundred，onehundredofwhichareannuallysold。Ofanextensivedomain，whichheholdsinhisownhands，heconsidersthesaleofcattleasrepayinghimtherent，andsupportstheplentyofaveryliberaltablewiththeremainingproduct。 Raasayissupposedtohavebeenverylonginhabited。Ononesideofittheyshowcaves，intowhichtherudenationsofthefirstagesretreatedfromtheweather。Thesedrearyvaultsmighthavehadotheruses。Thereisstillacavitynearthehousecalledtheoar-cave，inwhichtheseamen，afteroneofthosepiraticalexpeditions，whichinroughertimeswereveryfrequent，used，astraditiontells，tohidetheiroars。Thishollowwasnearthesea，thatnothingsonecessarymightbefartobefetched；anditwassecret，thatenemies，iftheylanded，couldfindnothing。Yetitisnotveryevidentofwhatuseitwastohidetheiroarsfromthose，who，iftheyweremastersofthecoast，couldtakeawaytheirboats。 Aproofmuchstrongerofthedistanceatwhichthefirstpossessorsofthisislandlivedfromthepresenttime，isaffordedbythestoneheadsofarrowswhichareveryfrequentlypickedup。ThepeoplecallthemElf-bolts，andbelievethatthefairiesshootthematthecattle。TheynearlyresemblethosewhichMr。BankshaslatelybroughtfromthesavagecountriesinthePacifickOcean，andmusthavebeenmadebyanationtowhichtheuseofmetalswasunknown。 Thenumberofthislittlecommunityhasneverbeencountedbyitsruler，norhaveIobtainedanypositiveaccount，consistentwiththeresultofpoliticalcomputation。Notmanyyearsago，thelateLairdledoutonehundredmenuponamilitaryexpedition。Thesixthpartofapeopleissupposedcapableofbearingarms:Raasayhadthereforesixhundredinhabitants。Butbecauseitisnotlikely，thateverymanabletoserveinthefieldwouldfollowthesummons，orthatthechiefwouldleavehislandstotallydefenceless，ortakeawayallthehandsqualifiedforlabour，letitbesupposed，thathalfasmanymightbepermittedtostayathome。Thewholenumberwillthenbeninehundred，orninetoasquaremile；adegreeofpopulousnessgreaterthanthosetractsofdesolationcanoftenshow。Theyarecontentwiththeircountry，andfaithfultotheirchiefs，andyetuninfectedwiththefeverofmigration。 Nearthehouse，atRaasay，isachapelunroofedandruinous，whichhaslongbeenusedonlyasaplaceofburial。Aboutthechurches，intheIslands，aresmallsquaresinclosedwithstone，whichbelongtoparticularfamilies，asrepositoriesforthedead。AtRaasaythereisone，Ithink，fortheproprietor，andoneforsomecollateralhouse。 ItistoldbyMartin，thatatthedeathoftheLadyoftheIsland，ithasbeenherethecustomtoerectacross。Thiswefoundnottobetrue。Thestonesthatstandaboutthechapelatasmalldistance，someofwhichperhapshavecrossescutuponthem，arebelievedtohavebeennotfuneralmonuments，buttheancientboundariesofthesanctuaryorconsecratedground。 Martinwasamannotilliterate:hewasaninhabitantofSky，andthereforewaswithinreachofintelligence，andwithnogreatdifficultymighthavevisitedtheplaceswhichheundertakestodescribe；yetwithallhisopportunities，hehasoftensufferedhimselftobedeceived。Helivedinthelastcentury，whenthechiefsoftheclanshadlostlittleoftheiroriginalinfluence。 Themountainswereyetunpenetrated，noinletwasopenedtoforeignnovelties，andthefeudalinstitutionoperateduponlifewiththeirfullforce。 Hemightthereforehavedisplayedaseriesofsubordinationandaformofgovernment，which，inmoreluminousandimprovedregions，havebeenlongforgotten，andhavedelightedhisreaderswithmanyuncouthcustomsthatarenowdisused，andwildopinionsthatprevailnolonger。Butheprobablyhadnotknowledgeoftheworldsufficienttoqualifyhimforjudgingwhatwoulddeserveorgaintheattentionofmankind。Themodeoflifewhichwasfamiliartohimself，hedidnotsupposeunknowntoothers，norimaginedthathecouldgivepleasurebytellingthatofwhichitwas，inhislittlecountry，impossibletobeignorant。 Whathehasneglectedcannotnowbeperformed。Innations，wherethereishardlytheuseofletters，whatisonceoutofsightislostforever。Theythinkbutlittle，andoftheirfewthoughts，nonearewastedonthepast，inwhichtheyareneitherinterestedbyfearnorhope。Theironlyregistersarestatedobservancesandpracticalrepresentations。Forthisreasonanageofignoranceisanageofceremony。Pageants，andprocessions，andcommemorations，graduallyshrinkaway，asbettermethodscomeintouseofrecordingevents，andpreservingrights。 ItisnotonlyinRaasaythatthechapelisunroofedanduseless； throughthefewislandswhichwevisited，weneithersawnorheardofanyhouseofprayer，exceptinSky，thatwasnotinruins。ThemalignantinfluenceofCalvinismhasblastedceremonyanddecencytogether；andiftheremembranceofpapalsuperstitionisobliterated，themonumentsofpapalpietyarelikewiseeffaced。 Ithasbeen，formanyyears，populartotalkofthelazydevotionoftheRomishclergy；overthesleepylazinessofmenthaterectedchurches，wemayindulgeoursuperioritywithanewtriumph，bycomparingitwiththefervidactivityofthosewhosufferthemtofall。 Ofthedestructionofchurches，thedecayofreligionmustintimebetheconsequence；forwhilethepublickactsoftheministryarenowperformedinhouses，averysmallnumbercanbepresent；andasthegreaterpartoftheIslandersmakenouseofbooks，allmustnecessarilyliveintotalignorancewhowanttheopportunityofvocalinstruction。 Fromtheseremainsofancientsanctity，whichareeverywheretobefound，ithasbeenconjectured，that，forthelasttwocenturies，theinhabitantsoftheIslandshavedecreasedinnumber。Thisargument，whichsupposesthatthechurcheshavebeensufferedtofall，onlybecausetheywerenolongernecessary，wouldhavesomeforce，ifthehousesofworshipstillremainingweresufficientforthepeople。Butsincetheyhavenownochurchesatall，thesevenerablefragmentsdonotprovethepeopleofformertimestohavebeenmorenumerous，buttohavebeenmoredevout。Iftheinhabitantsweredoubledwiththeirpresentprinciples，itappearsnotthatanyprovisionforpublickworshipwouldbemade。Wherethereligionofacountryenforcesconsecratedbuildings，thenumberofthosebuildingsmaybesupposedtoaffordsomeindication，howeveruncertain，ofthepopulousnessoftheplace； butwherebyachangeofmannersanationiscontentedtolivewithoutthem，theirdecayimpliesnodiminutionofinhabitants。 Someofthesedilapidationsaresaidtobefoundinislandsnowuninhabited；butIdoubtwhetherwecanthenceinferthattheywereeverpeopled。Thereligionofthemiddleage，iswellknowntohaveplacedtoomuchhopeinlonelyausterities。Voluntarysolitudewasthegreatactofpropitiation，bywhichcrimeswereeffaced，andconsciencewasappeased；itisthereforenotunlikely，thatoratorieswereoftenbuiltinplaceswhereretirementwassuretohavenodisturbance。 Raasayhaslittlethatcandetainatraveller，excepttheLairdandhisfamily；buttheirpowerwantsnoauxiliaries。Suchaseatofhospitality，amidstthewindsandwaters，fillstheimaginationwithadelightfulcontrarietyofimages。Withoutistheroughoceanandtherockyland，thebeatingbillowsandthehowlingstorm:withinisplentyandelegance，beautyandgaiety，thesongandthedance。InRaasay，ifIcouldhavefoundanUlysses，IhadfanciedaPhoeacia。 DUNVEGAN AtRaasay，bygoodfortune，Macleod，sothechiefoftheclaniscalled，waspayingavisit，andbyhimwewereinvitedtohisseatatDunvegan。Raasayhasastoutboat，builtinNorway，inwhich，withsixoars，heconveyedusbacktoSky。WelandedatPortRe，socalled，becauseJamestheFifthofScotland，whohadcuriositytovisittheIslands，cameintoit。Theportismadebyaninletofthesea，deepandnarrow，whereashiplaywaitingtodispeopleSky，bycarryingthenativesawaytoAmerica。 IncoastingSky，wepassedbythecaverninwhichitwasthecustom，asMartinrelates，tocatchbirdsinthenight，bymakingafireattheentrance。Thispracticeisdisused；forthebirds，asisknownoftentohappen，havechangedtheirhaunts。 Herewedinedatapublickhouse，Ibelievetheonlyinnoftheisland，andhavingmountedourhorses，travelledinthemanneralreadydescribed，tillwecametoKingsborough，aplacedistinguishedbythatname，becausetheKinglodgedherewhenhelandedatPortRe。WewereentertainedwiththeusualhospitalitybyMr。Macdonaldandhislady，FloraMacdonald，anamethatwillbementionedinhistory，andifcourageandfidelitybevirtues，mentionedwithhonour。Sheisawomanofmiddlestature，softfeatures，gentlemanners，andelegantpresence。 Inthemorningwesentourhorsesroundapromontorytomeetus，andsparedourselvespartoftheday\'sfatigue，bycrossinganarmofthesea。WehadatlastsomedifficultyincomingtoDunvegan； forourwayledoveranextensivemoor，whereeverystepwastobetakenwithcaution，andwewereoftenobligedtoalight，becausethegroundcouldnotbetrusted。Intravellingthiswateryflat，I perceivedthatithadavisibledeclivity，andmightwithoutmuchexpenceordifficultybedrained。Butdifficultyandexpencearerelativeterms，whichhavedifferentmeaningsindifferentplaces。 ToDunveganwecame，verywillingtobeatrest，andfoundourfatigueamplyrecompensedbyourreception。LadyMacleod，whohadlivedmanyyearsinEngland，wasnewlycomehitherwithhersonandfourdaughters，whoknewalltheartsofsouthernelegance，andallthemodesofEnglisheconomy。Herethereforewesettled，anddidnotspoilthepresenthourwiththoughtsofdeparture。 Dunveganisarockyprominence，thatjutsoutintoabay，onthewestsideofSky。Thehouse，whichistheprincipalseatofMacleod，ispartlyoldandpartlymodern；itisbuiltupontherock，andlooksuponthewater。Itformstwosidesofasmallsquare:onthethirdsideistheskeletonofacastleofunknownantiquity，supposedtohavebeenaNorwegianfortress，whentheDanesweremastersoftheIslands。Itissonearlyentire，thatitmighthaveeasilybeenmadehabitable，weretherenotanominoustraditioninthefamily，thattheownershallnotlongoutlivethereparation。ThegrandfatherofthepresentLaird，indefianceofprediction，beganthework，butdesistedinalittletime，andappliedhismoneytoworseuses。 AstheinhabitantsoftheHebrideslived，formanyages，incontinualexpectationofhostilities，thechiefofeveryclanresidedinafortress。Thishousewasaccessibleonlyfromthewater，tillthelastpossessoropenedanentrancebystairsupontheland。 Theyhadformerlyreasontobeafraid，notonlyofdeclaredwarsandauthorizedinvaders，orofrovingpirates，which，inthenorthernseas，musthavebeenverycommon；butofinroadsandinsultsfromrivalclans，who，intheplenitudeoffeudalindependence，askednoleaveoftheirSovereigntomakewarononeanother。SkyhasbeenravagedbyafeudbetweenthetwomightypowersofMacdonaldandMacleod。MacdonaldhavingmarriedaMacleoduponsomediscontentdismissedher，perhapsbecauseshehadbroughthimnochildren。BeforethereignofJamestheFifth，aHighlandLairdmadeatrialofhiswifeforacertaintime，andifshedidnotpleasehim，hewasthenatlibertytosendheraway。 Thishowevermustalwayshaveoffended，andMacleodresentingtheinjury，whateverwereitscircumstances，declared，thattheweddinghadbeensolemnizedwithoutabonfire，butthattheseparationshouldbebetterilluminated；andraisingalittlearmy，setfiretotheterritoriesofMacdonald，whoreturnedthevisit，andprevailed。 Anotherstorymayshowthedisorderlystateofinsularneighbourhood。TheinhabitantsoftheIsleofEgg，meetingaboatmannedbyMacleods，tiedthecrewhandandfoot，andsetthema- drift。MacleodlandeduponEgg，anddemandedtheoffenders；buttheinhabitantsrefusingtosurrenderthem，retreatedtoacavern，intowhichtheythoughttheirenemiesunlikelytofollowthem。 Macleodchokedthemwithsmoke，andleftthemlyingdeadbyfamiliesastheystood。 Heretheviolenceoftheweatherconfinedusforsometime，notatalltoourdiscontentorinconvenience。WewouldindeedverywillinglyhavevisitedtheIslands，whichmightbeseenfromthehousescatteredinthesea，andIwasparticularlydesiroustohaveviewedIsay；butthestormsdidnotpermitustolaunchaboat，andwewerecondemnedtolisteninidlenesstothewind，exceptwhenwewerebetterengagedbylisteningtotheladies。 Wehadheremorewindthanwaves，andsufferedtheseverityofatempest，withoutenjoyingitsmagnificence。Theseabeingbrokenbythemultitudeofislands，doesnotroarwithsomuchnoise，norbeattheshorewithsuchfoamyviolence，asIhaveremarkedonthecoastofSussex。Though，whileIwasintheHebrides，thewindwasextremelyturbulent，Ineversawveryhighbillows。 ThecountryaboutDunveganisroughandbarren。Therearenotrees，exceptintheorchard，whichisalowshelteredspotsurroundedwithawall。 Whenthishousewasintendedtosustainasiege，awellwasmadeinthecourt，byboringtherockdownwards，tillwaterwasfound，whichthoughsoneartothesea，Ihavenotheardmentionedasbrackish，thoughithassomehardness，orotherqualities，whichmakeitlessfitforuse；andthefamilyisnowbettersuppliedfromastream，whichrunsbytherock，fromtwopleasingwater- falls。 Herewesawsometracesofformermanners，andheardsomestandingtraditions。Inthehouseiskeptanox\'shorn，hollowedsoastoholdperhapstwoquarts，whichtheheirofMacleodwasexpectedtoswallowatonedraught，asatestofhismanhood，beforehewaspermittedtobeararms，orcouldclaimaseatamongthemen。ItisheldthatthereturnoftheLairdtoDunvegan，afteranyconsiderableabsence，producesaplentifulcaptureofherrings；andthat，ifanywomancrossesthewatertotheoppositeIsland，theherringswilldesertthecoast。Boetiustellsthesameofsomeotherplace。Thistraditionisnotuniform。Someholdthatnowomanmaypass，andothersthatnonemaypassbutaMacleod。 Amongotherguests，whichthehospitalityofDunveganbroughttothetable，avisitwaspaidbytheLairdandLadyofasmallislandsouthofSky，ofwhichthepropernameisMuack，whichsignifiesswine。ItiscommonlycalledMuck，whichtheproprietornotliking，hasendeavoured，withouteffect，tochangetoMonk。ItisusualtocallgentlemeninScotlandbythenameoftheirpossessions，asRaasay，Bernera，LochBuy，apracticenecessaryincountriesinhabitedbyclans，whereallthatliveinthesameterritoryhaveonename，andmustbethereforediscriminatedbysomeaddition。Thisgentleman，whosename，Ithink，isMaclean，shouldberegularlycalledMuck；buttheappellation，whichhethinkstoocoarseforhisIsland，hewouldlikestilllessforhimself，andheisthereforeaddressedbythetitleof，IsleofMuck。 ThislittleIsland，howeveritbenamed，isofconsiderablevalue。 ItistwoEnglishmileslong，andthreequartersofamilebroad，andconsequentlycontainsonlyninehundredandsixtyEnglishacres。Itischieflyarable。HalfofthislittledominiontheLairdretainsinhisownhand，andontheotherhalf，liveonehundredandsixtypersons，whopaytheirrentbyexportedcorn。 Whatrenttheypay，wewerenottold，andcouldnotdecentlyinquire。Theproportionofthepeopletothelandissuch，asthemostfertilecountriesdonotcommonlymaintain。 TheLairdhavingallhispeopleunderhisimmediateview，seemstobeveryattentivetotheirhappiness。Thedevastationofthesmall-pox，whenitvisitsplaceswhereitcomesseldom，iswellknown。HehasdisarmeditofitsterrouratMuack，byinoculatingeightyofhispeople。Theexpencewastwoshillingsandsixpenceahead。Manytradestheycannothaveamongthem，butuponoccasion，hefetchesasmithfromtheIsleofEgg，andhasatailorfromthemainland，sixtimesayear。Thisislandwelldeservedtobeseen，buttheLaird\'sabsenceleftusnoopportunity。 Everyinhabitedislandhasitsappendantandsubordinateislets。 Muck，howeversmall，hasyetotherssmalleraboutit，oneofwhichhasonlygroundsufficienttoaffordpastureforthreewethers。 AtDunveganIhadtastedlotus，andwasindangerofforgettingthatIwasevertodepart，tillMr。Boswellsagelyreproachedmewithmysluggishnessandsoftness。Ihadnoveryforcibledefencetomake；andweagreedtopursueourjourney。MacleodaccompaniedustoUlinish，wherewewereentertainedbythesheriffoftheIsland。 ULINISH Mr。Macqueentravelledwithus，anddirectedourattentiontoallthatwasworthyofobservation。Withhimwewenttoseeanancientbuilding，calledadunorborough。Itwasacircularinclosure，aboutforty-twofeetindiameter，walledroundwithloosestones，perhapstotheheightofninefeet。Thewallswereverythick，diminishingalittletowardthetop，andthoughinthesecountries，stoneisnotbroughtfar，musthavebeenraisedwithmuchlabour。 Withinthegreatcirclewereseveralsmallerroundsofwall，whichformeddistinctapartments。Itsdate，anditsuseareunknown。 SomesupposeittheoriginalseatofthechiefsoftheMacleods。 Mr。MacqueenthoughtitaDanishfort。 Theentranceiscoveredwithflatstones，andisnarrow，becauseitwasnecessarythatthestoneswhichlieoverit，shouldreachfromonewalltotheother；yet，straitasthepassageis，theyseemheavierthancouldhavebeenplacedwheretheynowlie，bythenakedstrengthofasmanymenasmightstandaboutthem。Theywereprobablyraisedbyputtinglongpiecesofwoodunderthem，towhichtheactionofalonglineofliftersmightbeapplied。Savages，inallcountries，havepatienceproportionatetotheirunskilfulness，andarecontenttoattaintheirendbyverytediousmethods。 Ifitwaseverroofed，itmightoncehavebeenadwelling，butasthereisnoprovisionforwater，itcouldnothavebeenafortress。 InSky，asineveryotherplace，thereisanambitionofexaltingwhateverhassurvivedmemory，tosomeimportantuse，andreferringittoveryremoteages。Iaminclinedtosuspect，thatinlawlesstimes，whentheinhabitantsofeverymountainstolethecattleoftheirneighbour，theseinclosureswereusedtosecuretheherdsandflocksinthenight。Whentheyweredrivenwithinthewall，theymightbeeasilywatched，anddefendedaslongascouldbeneedful； fortherobbersdurstnotwaittilltheinjuredclanshouldfindtheminthemorning。 Theinteriorinclosures，ifthewholebuildingwereonceahouse，werethechambersofthechiefinhabitants。Ifitwasaplaceofsecurityforcattle，theywereprobablythesheltersofthekeepers。 FromtheDunwewereconductedtoanotherplaceofsecurity，acavecarriedagreatwayunderground，whichhadbeendiscoveredbydiggingafterafox。Thesecaves，ofwhichmanyhavebeenfound，andmanyprobablyremainconcealed，areformed，Ibelieve，commonlybytakingadvantageofahollow，wherebanksorrocksriseoneitherside。Ifnosuchplacecanbefound，thegroundmustbecutaway。Thewallsaremadebypilingstonesagainsttheearth，oneitherside。Itisthenroofedbylargerstoneslaidacrossthecavern，whichthereforecannotbewide。Overtheroof，turfswereplaced，andgrasswassufferedtogrow；andthemouthwasconcealedbybushes，orsomeothercover。 Thesecaveswererepresentedtousasthecabinsofthefirstrudeinhabitants，ofwhich，however，Iambynomeanspersuaded。Thiswassolow，thatnomancouldstanduprightinit。Bytheirconstructiontheyareallsonarrow，thattwocanneverpassalongthemtogether，andbeingsubterraneous，theymustbealwaysdamp。 Theyarenottheworkofanagemuchruderthanthepresent；fortheyareformedwithasmuchartastheconstructionofacommonhutrequires。Iimaginethemtohavebeenplacesonlyofoccasionaluse，inwhichtheIslander，uponasuddenalarm，hidhisutensils，orhiscloaths，andperhapssometimeshiswifeandchildren。 Thiscaveweentered，butcouldnotproceedthewholelength，andwentawaywithoutknowinghowfaritwascarried。Forthisomissionweshallbeblamed，asweperhapshaveblamedothertravellers；butthedaywasrainy，andthegroundwasdamp。Wehadwithusneitherspadesnorpickaxes，andifloveofeasesurmountedourdesireofknowledge，theoffencehasnottheinvidiousnessofsingularity。 Edifices，eitherstandingorruined，arethechiefrecordsofanilliteratenation。Insomepartofthisjourney，atnogreatdistancefromourway，stoodashatteredfortress，ofwhichthelearnedminister，towhosecommunicationwearemuchindebted，gaveusanaccount。 Those，saidhe，arethewallsofaplaceofrefuge，builtinthetimeofJamestheSixth，byHughMacdonald，whowasnextheirtothedignityandfortuneofhischief。Hugh，beingsonearhiswish，wasimpatientofdelay；andhadartandinfluencesufficienttoengageseveralgentlemeninaplotagainsttheLaird\'slife。 Somethingmustbestipulatedonbothsides；fortheywouldnotdiptheirhandsinbloodmerelyforHugh\'sadvancement。Thecompactwasformerlywritten，signedbytheconspirators，andplacedinthehandsofoneMacleod。 IthappenedthatMacleodhadsoldsomecattletoadrover，who，nothavingreadymoney，gavehimabondforpayment。Thedebtwasdischarged，andthebondre-demanded；whichMacleod，whocouldnotread，intendingtoputintohishands，gavehimtheconspiracy。 Thedrover，whenhehadreadthepaper，delivereditprivatelytoMacdonald；who，beingthusinformedofhisdanger，calledhisfriendstogether，andprovidedforhissafety。Hemadeapublicfeast，andinvitingHughMacdonaldandhisconfederates，placedeachofthematthetablebetweentwomenofknownfidelity。Thecompactofconspiracywasthenshewn，andeverymanconfrontedwithhisownname。Macdonaldactedwithgreatmoderation。HeupbraidedHugh，bothwithdisloyaltyandingratitude；buttoldtherest，thatheconsideredthemasmendeludedandmisinformed。Hughwassworntofidelity，anddismissedwithhiscompanions；buthewasnotgenerousenoughtobereclaimedbylenity；andfindingnolongeranycountenanceamongthegentlemen，endeavouredtoexecutethesamedesignbymeanerhands。Inthispracticehewasdetected，takentoMacdonald\'scastle，andimprisonedinthedungeon。Whenhewashungry，theyletdownaplentifulmealofsaltedmeat；andwhen，afterhisrepast，hecalledfordrink，conveyedtohimacoveredcup，which，whenheliftedthelid，hefoundempty。Fromthattimetheyvisitedhimnomore，butlefthimtoperishinsolitudeanddarkness。 Wewerethentoldofacavernbythesea-side，remarkableforthepowerfulreverberationofsounds。Afterdinnerwetookaboat，toexplorethiscuriouscavity。Theboatmen，whoseemedtobeofarankabovethatofcommondrudges，inquiredwhothestrangerswere，andbeingtoldwecameonefromScotland，andtheotherfromEngland，askediftheEnglishmancouldrecountalonggenealogy。 Whatanswerwasgiventhem，theconversationbeinginErse，Iwasnotmuchinclinedtoexamine。 Theyexpectednogoodeventofthevoyage；foroneofthemdeclaredthatheheardthecryofanEnglishghost。ThisomenIwasnottoldtillafterourreturn，andthereforecannotclaimthedignityofdespisingit。 Theseawassmooth。Weneverlefttheshore，andcamewithoutanydisastertothecavern，whichwefoundruggedandmisshapen，aboutonehundredandeightyfeetlong，thirtywideinthebroadestpart，andintheloftiest，asweguessed，aboutthirtyhigh。Itwasnowdry，butathighwaterthesearisesinitnearsixfeet。HereI sawwhatIhadneverseenbefore，limpetsandmusselsintheirnaturalstate。But，asanewtestimonytotheveracityofcommonfame，herewasnoechotobeheard。 Wethenwalkedthroughanaturalarchintherock，whichmighthavepleasedusbyitsnovelty，hadthestones，whichincumberedourfeet，givenusleisuretoconsiderit。Wewereshownthegummyseedofthekelp，thatfastensitselftoastone，fromwhichitgrowsintoastrongstalk。 Inourreturn，wefoundalittleboyuponthepointofrock，catchingwithhisangle，asupperforthefamily。Weroweduptohim，andborrowedhisrod，withwhichMr。Boswellcaughtacuddy。 ThecuddyisafishofwhichIknownotthephilosophicalname。Itisnotmuchbiggerthanagudgeon，butisofgreatuseintheseIslands，asitaffordsthelowerpeoplebothfood，andoilfortheirlamps。Cuddiesaresoabundant，atsometimesoftheyear，thattheyarecaughtlikewhitebaitintheThames，onlybydippingabasketanddrawingitback。 Ifitwerealwayspracticabletofish，theseIslandscouldneverbeinmuchdangerfromfamine；butunhappilyinthewinter，whenotherprovisionfails，theseasarecommonlytooroughfornets，orboats。 TALISKERINSKY FromUlinish，ournextstagewastoTalisker，thehouseofcolonelMacleod，anofficerintheDutchservice，who，inthistimeofuniversalpeace，hasforseveralyearsbeenpermittedtobeabsentfromhisregiment。Havingbeenbredtophysick，heisconsequentlyascholar，andhislady，byaccompanyinghiminhisdifferentplacesofresidence，isbecomeskilfulinseverallanguages。 TaliskeristheplacebeyondallthatIhaveseen，fromwhichthegayandthejovialseemutterlyexcluded；andwherethehermitmightexpecttogrowoldinmeditation，withoutpossibilityofdisturbanceorinterruption。Itissituatedverynearthesea，butuponacoastwherenovessellandsbutwhenitisdrivenbyatempestontherocks。Towardsthelandareloftyhillsstreamingwithwater-falls。Thegardenisshelteredbyfirsorpines，whichgrowtheresoprosperously，thatsome，whichthepresentinhabitantplanted，areveryhighandthick。