第2章

YetwhattheRomansdidtoothernations，wasinagreatdegreedonebyCromwelltotheScots；hecivilizedthembyconquest，andintroducedbyusefulviolencetheartsofpeace。IwastoldatAberdeenthatthepeoplelearnedfromCromwell\'ssoldierstomakeshoesandtoplantkail。 Howtheylivedwithoutkail，itisnoteasytoguess:Theycultivatehardlyanyotherplantforcommontables，andwhentheyhadnotkailtheyprobablyhadnothing。Thenumbersthatgobarefootarestillsufficienttoshewthatshoesmaybespared: Theyarenotyetconsideredasnecessariesoflife；fortallboys，nototherwisemeanlydressed，runwithouttheminthestreets；andintheislandsthesonsofgentlemenpassseveraloftheirfirstyearswithnakedfeet。 IknownotwhetheritbenotpeculiartotheScotstohaveattainedtheliberal，withoutthemanualarts，tohaveexcelledinornamentalknowledge，andtohavewantednotonlytheelegancies，buttheconveniencesofcommonlife。LiteraturesoonafteritsrevivalfounditswaytoScotland，andfromthemiddleofthesixteenthcentury，almosttothemiddleoftheseventeenth，thepoliterstudieswereverydiligentlypursued。TheLatinpoetryofDeliciaePoetarumScotorumwouldhavedonehonourtoanynation，atleasttillthepublicationofMay\'sSupplementtheEnglishhadverylittletooppose。 Yetmenthusingeniousandinquisitivewerecontenttoliveintotalignoranceofthetradesbywhichhumanwantsaresupplied，andtosupplythembythegrossestmeans。TilltheUnionmadethemacquaintedwithEnglishmanners，thecultureoftheirlandswasunskilful，andtheirdomesticklifeunformed；theirtableswerecoarseasthefeastsofEskimeaux，andtheirhousesfilthyasthecottagesofHottentots。 Sincetheyhaveknownthattheirconditionwascapableofimprovement，theirprogressinusefulknowledgehasbeenrapidanduniform。Whatremainstobedonetheywillquicklydo，andthenwonder，likeme，whythatwhichwassonecessaryandsoeasywassolongdelayed。ButtheymustbeforevercontenttoowetotheEnglishthateleganceandculture，which，iftheyhadbeenvigilantandactive，perhapstheEnglishmighthaveowedtothem。 Heretheappearanceoflifebegantoalter。IhadseenafewwomenwithplaidsatAberdeen；butatInvernesstheHighlandmannersarecommon。ThereisIthinkakirk，inwhichonlytheErselanguageisused。ThereislikewiseanEnglishchapel，butmeanlybuilt，whereonSundaywesawaverydecentcongregation。 Wewerenowtobidfareweltotheluxuryoftravelling，andtoenteracountryuponwhichperhapsnowheelhaseverrolled。Wecouldindeedhaveusedourpost-chaiseonedaylonger，alongthemilitaryroadtoFortAugustus，butwecouldhavehirednohorsesbeyondInverness，andwewerenotsosparingofourselves，astoleadthem，merelythatwemighthaveonedaylongertheindulgenceofacarriage。 AtInvernessthereforeweprocuredthreehorsesforourselvesandaservant，andonemoreforourbaggage，whichwasnoveryheavyload。Wefoundinthecourseofourjourneytheconvenienceofhavingdisencumberedourselves，bylayingasidewhateverwecouldspare；foritisnottobeimaginedwithoutexperience，howinclimbingcrags，andtreadingbogs，andwindingthroughnarrowandobstructedpassages，alittlebulkwillhinder，andalittleweightwillburthen；orhowoftenamanthathaspleasedhimselfathomewithhisownresolution，will，inthehourofdarknessandfatigue，becontenttoleavebehindhimeverythingbuthimself。 LOUGHNESS WetooktwoHighlanderstorunbesideus，partlytoshewustheway，andpartlytotakebackfromthesea-sidethehorses，ofwhichtheyweretheowners。Oneofthemwasamanofgreatlivelinessandactivity，ofwhomhiscompanionsaid，thathewouldtireanyhorseinInverness。Bothofthemwerecivilandready-handed。 CivilityseemspartofthenationalcharacterofHighlanders。 Everychieftainisamonarch，andpoliteness，thenaturalproductofroyalgovernment，isdiffusedfromthelairdthroughthewholeclan。Buttheyarenotcommonlydexterous:theirnarrownessoflifeconfinesthemtoafewoperations，andtheyareaccustomedtoendurelittlewantsmorethantoremovethem。 WemountedoursteedsonthethirtiethofAugust，anddirectedourguidestoconductustoFortAugustus。ItisbuiltattheheadofLoughNess，ofwhichInvernessstandsattheoutlet。Thewaybetweenthemhasbeencutbythesoldiers，andthegreaterpartofitrunsalongarock，levelledwithgreatlabourandexactness，nearthewater-side。 Mostofthisday\'sjourneywasverypleasant。Theday，thoughbright，wasnothot；andtheappearanceofthecountry，ifIhadnotseenthePeak，wouldhavebeenwhollynew。Wewentuponasurfacesohardandlevel，thatwehadlittlecaretoholdthebridle，andwerethereforeatfullleisureforcontemplation。Ontheleftwerehighandsteeprocksshadedwithbirch，thehardynativeoftheNorth，andcoveredwithfernorheath。OntherightthelimpidwatersofLoughNesswerebeatingtheirbank，andwavingtheirsurfacebyagentleagitation。Beyondthemwererockssometimescoveredwithverdure，andsometimestoweringinhorridnakedness。Nowandthenweespiedalittlecornfield，whichservedtoimpressmorestronglythegeneralbarrenness。 LoughNessisabouttwenty-fourmileslong，andfromonemiletotwomilesbroad。ItisremarkablethatBoethius，inhisdescriptionofScotland，givesittwelvemilesofbreadth。Whenhistoriansorgeographersexhibitfalseaccountsofplacesfardistant，theymaybeforgiven，becausetheycantellbutwhattheyaretold；andthattheiraccountsexceedthetruthmaybejustlysupposed，becausemostmenexaggeratetoothers，ifnottothemselves:butBoethiuslivedatnogreatdistance；ifheneversawthelake，hemusthavebeenveryincurious，andifhehadseenit，hisveracityyieldedtoveryslighttemptations。 LoughNess，thoughnottwelvemilesbroad，isaveryremarkablediffusionofwaterwithoutislands。Itfillsalargehollowbetweentworidgesofhighrocks，beingsuppliedpartlybythetorrentswhichfallintoitoneitherside，andpartly，asissupposed，byspringsatthebottom。Itswaterisremarkablyclearandpleasant，andisimaginedbythenativestobemedicinal。Weweretold，thatitisinsomeplacesahundredandfortyfathomsdeep，aprofundityscarcelycredible，andwhichprobablythosethatrelateithaveneversounded。Itsfisharesalmon，trout，andpike。 ItwassaidatfortAugustus，thatLoughNessisopeninthehardestwinters，thoughalakenotfarfromitiscoveredwithice。 Indiscussingtheseexceptionsfromthecourseofnature，thefirstquestionis，whetherthefactbejustlystated。Thatwhichisstrangeisdelightful，andapleasingerrorisnotwillinglydetected。Accuracyofnarrationisnotverycommon，andtherearefewsorigidlyphilosophical，asnottorepresentasperpetual，whatisonlyfrequent，orasconstant，whatisreallycasual。IfitbetruethatLoughNessneverfreezes，itiseithershelteredbyitshighbanksfromthecoldblasts，andexposedonlytothosewindswhichhavemorepowertoagitatethancongeal；oritiskeptinperpetualmotionbytherushofstreamsfromtherocksthatincloseit。Itsprofunditythoughitshouldbesuchasisrepresentedcanhavelittlepartinthisexemption；forthoughdeepwellsarenotfrozen，becausetheirwaterissecludedfromtheexternalair，yetwhereawidesurfaceisexposedtothefullinfluenceofafreezingatmosphere，Iknownotwhythedepthshouldkeepitopen。NaturalphilosophyisnowoneofthefavouritestudiesoftheScottishnation，andLoughNesswelldeservestobediligentlyexamined。 Theroadonwhichwetravelled，andwhichwasitselfasourceofentertainment，ismadealongtherock，inthedirectionofthelough，sometimesbybreakingoffprotuberances，andsometimesbycuttingthegreatmassofstonetoaconsiderabledepth。Thefragmentsarepiledinaloosewalloneitherside，withaperturesleftatveryshortspaces，togiveapassagetothewintrycurrents。Partofitisborderedwithlowtrees，fromwhichourguidesgatherednuts，andwouldhavehadtheappearanceofanEnglishlane，exceptthatanEnglishlaneisalmostalwaysdirty。 Ithasbeenmadewithgreatlabour，buthasthisadvantage，thatitcannot，withoutequallabour，bebrokenup。 Withinoursightthereweregoatsfeedingorplaying。Themountainshavereddeer，buttheycamenotwithinview；andifwhatissaidoftheirvigilanceandsubtletybetrue，theyhavesomeclaimtothatpalmofwisdom，whichtheeasternphilosopher，whomAlexanderinterrogated，gavetothosebeastswhichlivefurthestfrommen。 Neartheway，bythewaterside，weespiedacottage。ThiswasthefirstHighlandHutthatIhadseen；andasourbusinesswaswithlifeandmanners，wewerewillingtovisitit。Toenterahabitationwithoutleave，seemstobenotconsideredhereasrudenessorintrusion。Theoldlawsofhospitalitystillgivethislicencetoastranger。 Ahutisconstructedwithloosestones，rangedforthemostpartwithsometendencytocircularity。Itmustbeplacedwherethewindcannotactuponitwithviolence，becauseithasnocement； andwherethewaterwillruneasilyaway，becauseithasnofloorbutthenakedground。Thewall，whichiscommonlyaboutsixfeethigh，declinesfromtheperpendicularalittleinward。Suchraftersascanbeprocuredarethenraisedforaroof，andcoveredwithheath，whichmakesastrongandwarmthatch，keptfromflyingoffbyropesoftwistedheath，ofwhichtheends，reachingfromthecenterofthethatchtothetopofthewall，areheldfirmbytheweightofalargestone。Nolightisadmittedbutattheentrance，andthroughaholeinthethatch，whichgivesventtothesmoke。 Thisholeisnotdirectlyoverthefire，lesttherainshouldextinguishit；andthesmokethereforenaturallyfillstheplacebeforeitescapes。Suchisthegeneralstructureofthehousesinwhichoneofthenationsofthisopulentandpowerfulislandhasbeenhithertocontenttolive。Hutshoweverarenotmoreuniformthanpalaces；andthiswhichwewereinspectingwasveryfarfromoneofthemeanest，foritwasdividedintoseveralapartments；anditsinhabitantspossessedsuchpropertyasapastoralpoetmightexaltintoriches。 Whenweentered，wefoundanoldwomanboilinggoats-fleshinakettle。ShespokelittleEnglish，butwehadinterpretersathand； andshewaswillingenoughtodisplayherwholesystemofeconomy。 Shehasfivechildren，ofwhichnoneareyetgonefromher。Theeldest，aboyofthirteen，andherhusband，whoiseightyyearsold，wereatworkinthewood。HertwonextsonsweregonetoInvernesstobuymeal，bywhichoatmealisalwaysmeant。Mealsheconsideredasexpensivefood，andtoldus，thatinSpring，whenthegoatsgavemilk，thechildrencouldlivewithoutit。Sheismistressofsixtygoats，andIsawmanykidsinanenclosureattheendofherhouse。Shehadalsosomepoultry。Bythelakewesawapotatoe-garden，andasmallspotofgroundonwhichstoodfourshucks，containingeachtwelvesheavesofbarley。Shehasallthisfromthelabouroftheirownhands，andforwhatisnecessarytobebought，herkidsandherchickensaresenttomarket。 Withthetruepastoralhospitality，sheaskedustositdownanddrinkwhisky。Sheisreligious，andthoughthekirkisfourmilesoff，probablyeightEnglishmiles，shegoesthithereverySunday。 Wegaveherashilling，andshebeggedsnuff；forsnuffistheluxuryofaHighlandcottage。 SoonafterwardswecametotheGeneral\'sHut，socalledbecauseitwasthetemporaryabodeofWade，whilehesuperintendedtheworksupontheroad。Itisnowahouseofentertainmentforpassengers，andwefounditnotillstockedwithprovisions。 FALLOFFIERS Towardseveningwecrossed，byabridge，theriverwhichmakesthecelebratedfallofFiers。ThecountryatthebridgestrikestheimaginationwithallthegloomandgrandeurofSiberiansolitude。 Thewaymakesaflexure，andthemountains，coveredwithtrees，riseatonceonthelefthandandinthefront。Wedesiredourguidestoshewusthefall，anddismounting，clamberedoververyruggedcrags，tillIbegantowishthatourcuriositymighthavebeengratifiedwithlesstroubleanddanger。Wecameatlasttoaplacewherewecouldoverlooktheriver，andsawachanneltorn，asitseems，throughblackpilesofstone，bywhichthestreamisobstructedandbroken，tillitcomestoaverysteepdescent，ofsuchdreadfuldepth，thatwewerenaturallyinclinedtoturnasideoureyes。 Butwevisitedtheplaceatanunseasonabletime，andfounditdivestedofitsdignityandterror。Naturenevergiveseverythingatonce。Alongcontinuanceofdryweather，whichmadetherestofthewayeasyanddelightful，deprivedusofthepleasureexpectedfromthefallofFiers。Theriverhavingnownowaterbutwhatthespringssupply，showedusonlyaswiftcurrent，clearandshallow，frettingovertheasperitiesoftherockybottom，andwewerelefttoexerciseourthoughts，byendeavouringtoconceivetheeffectofathousandstreamspouredfromthemountainsintoonechannel，strugglingforexpansioninanarrowpassage，exasperatedbyrocksrisingintheirway，andatlastdischargingalltheirviolenceofwatersbyasuddenfallthroughthehorridchasm。 Thewaynowgrewlesseasy，descendingbyanunevendeclivity，butwithouteitherdirtordanger。WedidnotarriveatFortAugustustillitwaslate。Mr。Boswell，who，betweenhisfather\'smeritandhisown，issureofreceptionwhereverhecomes，sentaservantbeforetobegadmissionandentertainmentforthatnight。Mr。 Trapaud，thegovernor，treateduswiththatcourtesywhichissocloselyconnectedwiththemilitarycharacter。Hecameouttomeetusbeyondthegates，andapologizedthat，atsolateanhour，therulesofagarrisonsufferedhimtogiveusentranceonlyatthepostern。 FORTAUGUSTUS Inthemorningweviewedthefort，whichismuchlessthanthatofSt。George，andissaidtobecommandedbytheneighbouringhills。 ItwasnotlongagotakenbytheHighlanders。Butitssituationseemswellchosenforpleasure，ifnotforstrength；itstandsattheheadofthelake，and，byasloopofsixtytuns，issuppliedfromInvernesswithgreatconvenience。 WewerenowtocrosstheHighlandstowardsthewesterncoast，andtocontentourselveswithsuchaccommodations，asawaysolittlefrequentedcouldafford。Thejourneywasnotformidable，foritwasbutoftwodays，veryunequallydivided，becausetheonlyhouse，wherewecouldbeentertained，wasnotfurtheroffthanathirdoftheway。Wesooncametoahighhill，whichwemountedbyamilitaryroad，cutintraverses，sothataswewentuponahigherstage，wesawthebaggagefollowingusbelowinacontrarydirection。Tomakethisway，therockhasbeenhewntoalevelwithlabourthatmighthavebrokentheperseveranceofaRomanlegion。 Thecountryistotallydenudedofitswood，butthestumpsbothofoaksandfirs，whicharestillfound，shewthatithasbeenonceaforestoflargetimber。Idonotrememberthatwesawanyanimals，butweweretoldthat，inthemountains，therearestags，roebucks，goatsandrabbits。 Wedidnotperceivethatthistractwaspossessedbyhumanbeings，exceptthatoncewesawacornfield，inwhichaladywaswalkingwithsomegentlemen。Theirhousewascertainlyatnogreatdistance，butsosituatedthatwecouldnotdescryit。 Passingonthroughthedrearinessofsolitude，wefoundapartyofsoldiersfromthefort，workingontheroad，underthesuperintendenceofaserjeant。Wetoldthemhowkindlywehadbeentreatedatthegarrison，andaswewereenjoyingthebenefitoftheirlabours，beggedleavetoshewourgratitudebyasmallpresent。 ANOCH EarlyintheafternoonwecametoAnoch，avillageinGlenmollisonofthreehuts，oneofwhichisdistinguishedbyachimney。Hereweweretodineandlodge，andwereconductedthroughthefirstroom，thathadthechimney，intoanotherlightedbyasmallglasswindow。 Thelandlordattendeduswithgreatcivility，andtolduswhathecouldgiveustoeatanddrink。Ifoundsomebooksonashelf，amongwhichwereavolumeormoreofPrideaux\'sConnection。 ThisImentionedassomethingunexpected，andperceivedthatIdidnotpleasehim。Ipraisedtheproprietyofhislanguage，andwasansweredthatIneednotwonder，forhehadlearneditbygrammar。 Bysubsequentopportunitiesofobservation，Ifoundthatmyhost\'sdictionhadnothingpeculiar。ThoseHighlandersthatcanspeakEnglish，commonlyspeakitwell，withfewofthewords，andlittleofthetonebywhichaScotchmanisdistinguished。Theirlanguageseemstohavebeenlearnedinthearmyorthenavy，orbysomecommunicationwiththosewhocouldgivethemgoodexamplesofaccentandpronunciation。BytheirLowlandneighbourstheywouldnotwillinglybetaught；fortheyhavelongconsideredthemasameananddegeneraterace。Theseprejudicesarewearingfastaway； butsomuchofthemstillremains，thatwhenIaskedaverylearnedministerintheislands，whichtheyconsideredastheirmostsavageclans:\'Those，\'saidhe，\'thatlivenexttheLowlands。\' Aswecamehitherearlyintheday，wehadtimesufficienttosurveytheplace。Thehousewasbuiltlikeotherhutsofloosestones，butthepartinwhichwedinedandsleptwaslinedwithturfandwattledwithtwigs，whichkepttheearthfromfalling。 Nearitwasagardenofturnipsandafieldofpotatoes。Itstandsinaglen，orvalley，pleasantlywateredbyawindingriver。Butthiscountry，howeveritmaydelightthegazeroramusethenaturalist，isofnogreatadvantagetoitsowners。Ourlandlordtoldusofagentleman，whopossesseslands，eighteenScotchmilesinlength，andthreeinbreadth；aspacecontainingatleastahundredsquareEnglishmiles。Hehasraisedhisrents，tothedangerofdepopulatinghisfarms，andhefellshistimber，andbyexertingeveryartofaugmentation，hasobtainedanyearlyrevenueoffourhundredpounds，whichforahundredsquaremilesisthreehalfpenceanacre。 Sometimeafterdinnerweweresurprisedbytheentranceofayoungwoman，notineleganteitherinmienordress，whoaskeduswhetherwewouldhavetea。Wefoundthatshewasthedaughterofourhost，anddesiredhertomakeit。Herconversation，likeherappearance，wasgentleandpleasing。WeknewthatthegirlsoftheHighlandsareallgentlewomen，andtreatedherwithgreatrespect，whichshereceivedascustomaryanddue，andwasneitherelatedbyit，norconfused，butrepaidmycivilitieswithoutembarassment，andtoldmehowmuchIhonouredhercountrybycomingtosurveyit。 ShehadbeenatInvernesstogainthecommonfemalequalifications，andhad，likeherfather，theEnglishpronunciation。Ipresentedherwithabook，whichIhappenedtohaveaboutme，andshouldnotbepleasedtothinkthatsheforgetsme。 Intheeveningthesoldiers，whomwehadpassedontheroad，cametospendatourinnthelittlemoneythatwehadgiventhem。Theyhadthetruemilitaryimpatienceofcoinintheirpockets，andhadmarchedatleastsixmilestofindthefirstplacewhereliquorcouldbebought。Havingneverbeenbeforeinaplacesowildandunfrequented，Iwasgladoftheirarrival，becauseIknewthatwehadmadethemfriends，andtogainstillmoreoftheirgoodwill，wewenttothem，wheretheywerecarousinginthebarn，andaddedsomethingtoourformergift。Allthatwegavewasnotmuch，butitdetainedtheminthebarn，eithermerryorquarrelling，thewholenight，andinthemorningtheywentbacktotheirwork，withgreatindignationatthebadqualitiesofwhisky。 Wehadgainedsomuchthefavourofourhost，that，whenwelefthishouseinthemorning，hewalkedbyusagreatway，andentertaineduswithconversationbothonhisowncondition，andthatofthecountry。Hislifeseemedtobemerelypastoral，exceptthathedifferedfromsomeoftheancientNomadesinhavingasettleddwelling。Hiswealthconsistsofonehundredsheep，asmanygoats，twelvemilk-cows，andtwenty-eightbeevesreadyforthedrover。 Fromhimwefirstheardofthegeneraldissatisfaction，whichisnowdrivingtheHighlandersintotheotherhemisphere；andwhenI askedhimwhethertheywouldstayathome，iftheywerewelltreated，heansweredwithindignation，thatnomanwillinglylefthisnativecountry。Ofthefarm，whichhehimselfoccupied，therenthad，intwenty-fiveyears，beenadvancedfromfivetotwentypounds，whichhefoundhimselfsolittleabletopay，thathewouldbegladtotryhisfortuneinsomeotherplace。YetheownedthereasonablenessofraisingtheHighlandrentsinacertaindegree，anddeclaredhimselfwillingtopaytenpoundsforthegroundwhichhehadformerlyhadforfive。 Ourhosthavingamusedusforatime，resignedustoourguides。 Thejourneyofthisdaywaslong，notthatthedistancewasgreat，butthatthewaywasdifficult。WewerenowinthebosomoftheHighlands，withfullleisuretocontemplatetheappearanceandpropertiesofmountainousregions，suchashavebeen，inmanycountries，thelastsheltersofnationaldistress，andareeverywherethescenesofadventures，stratagems，surprisesandescapes。 Mountainouscountriesarenotpassedbutwithdifficulty，notmerelyfromthelabourofclimbing；fortoclimbisnotalwaysnecessary:butbecausethatwhichisnotmountainiscommonlybog，throughwhichthewaymustbepickedwithcaution。Wheretherearehills，thereismuchrain，andthetorrentspouringdownintotheintermediatespaces，seldomfindsoreadyanoutlet，asnottostagnate，tilltheyhavebrokenthetextureoftheground。 Ofthehills，whichourjourneyofferedtotheviewoneitherside，wedidnottaketheheight，nordidweseeanythatastonisheduswiththeirloftiness。Towardsthesummitofone，therewasawhitespot，whichIshouldhavecalledanakedrock，buttheguides，whohadbettereyes，andwereacquaintedwiththephenomenaofthecountry，declaredittobesnow。IthadalreadylastedtotheendofAugust，andwaslikelytomaintainitscontestwiththesun，tillitshouldbereinforcedbywinter。 Theheightofmountainsphilosophicallyconsideredisproperlycomputedfromthesurfaceofthenextsea；butasitaffectstheeyeorimaginationofthepassenger，asitmakeseitheraspectacleoranobstruction，itmustbereckonedfromtheplacewheretherisebeginstomakeaconsiderableanglewiththeplain。Inextensivecontinentsthelandmay，bygradualelevation，attaingreatheight，withoutanyotherappearancethanthatofaplanegentlyinclined，andifahillplaceduponsuchraisedgroundbedescribed，ashavingitsaltitudeequaltothewholespaceabovethesea，therepresentationwillbefallacious。 Thesemountainsmaybeproperlyenoughmeasuredfromtheinlandbase；foritisnotmuchabovethesea。Asweadvancedateveningtowardsthewesterncoast，Ididnotobservethedeclivitytobegreaterthanisnecessaryforthedischargeoftheinlandwaters。 Wepassedmanyriversandrivulets，whichcommonlyranwithaclearshallowstreamoverahardpebblybottom。Thesechannels，whichseemsomuchwiderthanthewaterthattheyconveywouldnaturallyrequire，areformedbytheviolenceofwintryfloods，producedbytheaccumulationofinnumerablestreamsthatfallinrainyweatherfromthehills，andburstingawaywithresistlessimpetuosity，makethemselvesapassageproportionatetotheirmass。 Suchcapriciousandtemporarywaterscannotbeexpectedtoproducemanyfish。Therapidityofthewintrydelugesweepsthemaway，andthescantinessofthesummerstreamwouldhardlysustainthemabovetheground。Thisisthereasonwhyinfordingthenorthernrivers，nofishesareseen，asinEngland，wanderinginthewater。 OfthehillsmanymaybecalledwithHomer\'sIda\'abundantinsprings\'，butfewcandeservetheepithetwhichhebestowsuponPelionby\'wavingtheirleaves。\'Theyexhibitverylittlevariety； beingalmostwhollycoveredwithdarkheath，andeventhatseemstobecheckedinitsgrowth。Whatisnotheathisnakedness，alittlediversifiedbynowandthenastreamrushingdownthesteep。Aneyeaccustomedtoflowerypasturesandwavingharvestsisastonishedandrepelledbythiswideextentofhopelesssterility。 Theappearanceisthatofmatterincapableofformorusefulness，dismissedbynaturefromhercareanddisinheritedofherfavours，leftinitsoriginalelementalstate，orquickenedonlywithonesullenpowerofuselessvegetation。 Itwillveryreadilyoccur，thatthisuniformityofbarrennesscanaffordverylittleamusementtothetraveller；thatitiseasytositathomeandconceiverocksandheath，andwaterfalls；andthatthesejourneysareuselesslabours，whichneitherimpregnatetheimagination，norenlargetheunderstanding。Itistruethatoffarthegreaterpartofthings，wemustcontentourselveswithsuchknowledgeasdescriptionmayexhibit，oranalogysupply；butitistruelikewise，thattheseideasarealwaysincomplete，andthatatleast，tillwehavecomparedthemwithrealities，wedonotknowthemtobejust。Asweseemore，webecomepossessedofmorecertainties，andconsequentlygainmoreprinciplesofreasoning，andfoundawiderbasisofanalogy。 Regionsmountainousandwild，thinlyinhabited，andlittlecultivated，makeagreatpartoftheearth，andhethathasneverseenthem，mustliveunacquaintedwithmuchofthefaceofnature，andwithoneofthegreatscenesofhumanexistence。 Asthedayadvancedtowardsnoon，weenteredanarrowvalleynotveryflowery，butsufficientlyverdant。Ourguidestoldus，thatthehorsescouldnottravelalldaywithoutrestormeat，andintreatedustostophere，becausenograsswouldbefoundinanyotherplace。Therequestwasreasonableandtheargumentcogent。 Wethereforewillinglydismountedanddivertedourselvesastheplacegaveusopportunity。 Isatdownonabank，suchasawriterofRomancemighthavedelightedtofeign。Ihadindeednotreestowhisperovermyhead，butaclearrivuletstreamedatmyfeet。Thedaywascalm，theairsoft，andallwasrudeness，silence，andsolitude。Beforeme，andoneitherside，werehighhills，whichbyhinderingtheeyefromranging，forcedthemindtofindentertainmentforitself。WhetherIspentthehourwellIknownot；forhereIfirstconceivedthethoughtofthisnarration。 Wewereinthisplaceateaseandbychoice，andhadnoevilstosufferortofear；yettheimaginationsexcitedbytheviewofanunknownanduntravelledwildernessarenotsuchasariseintheartificialsolitudeofparksandgardens，aflatteringnotionofself-sufficiency，aplacidindulgenceofvoluntarydelusions，asecureexpansionofthefancy，oracoolconcentrationofthementalpowers。Thephantomswhichhauntadesertarewant，andmisery，anddanger；theevilsofderelictionrushuponthethoughts；manismadeunwillinglyacquaintedwithhisownweakness，andmeditationshowshimonlyhowlittlehecansustain，andhowlittlehecanperform。Therewerenotracesofinhabitants，exceptperhapsarudepileofclodscalledasummerhut，inwhichaherdsmanhadrestedinthefavourableseasons。WhoeverhadbeenintheplacewhereIthensat，unprovidedwithprovisionsandignorantofthecountry，might，atleastbeforetheroadsweremade，havewanderedamongtherocks，tillhehadperishedwithhardship，beforehecouldhavefoundeitherfoodorshelter。YetwhatarethesehillockstotheridgesofTaurus，orthesespotsofwildnesstothedesartsofAmerica? Itwasnotlongbeforewewereinvitedtomount，andcontinuedourjourneyalongthesideofalough，keptfullbymanystreams，whichwithmoreorlessrapidityandnoise，crossedtheroadfromthehillsontheotherhand。Thesecurrents，intheirdiminishedstate，afterseveraldrymonths，afford，toonewhohasalwayslivedinlevelcountries，anunusualanddelightfulspectacle；butintherainyseason，suchaseverywintermaybeexpectedtobring，mustprecipitateanimpetuousandtremendousflood。Isupposethewaybywhichwewent，isatthattimeimpassable。 GLENSHEALS Theloughatlastendedinariverbroadandshallowliketherest，butthatitmaybepassedwhenitisdeeper，thereisabridgeoverit。BeyonditisavalleycalledGlensheals，inhabitedbytheclanofMacrae。HerewefoundavillagecalledAuknasheals，consistingofmanyhuts，perhapstwenty，builtallofdry-stone，thatis，stonespiledupwithoutmortar。 Wehad，bythedirectionoftheofficersatFortAugustus，takenbreadforourselves，andtobaccoforthoseHighlanderswhomightshowusanykindness。Wewerenowataplacewherewecouldobtainmilk，butwemusthavewantedbreadifwehadnotbroughtit。ThepeopleofthisvalleydidnotappeartoknowanyEnglish，andourguidesnowbecamedoublynecessaryasinterpreters。 Awoman，whosehutwasdistinguishedbygreaterspaciousnessandbetterarchitecture，broughtoutsomepailsofmilk。Thevillagersgatheredaboutusinconsiderablenumbers，Ibelievewithoutanyevilintention，butwithaverysavagewildnessofaspectandmanner。Whenourmealwasover，Mr。Boswellslicedthebread，anddivideditamongstthem，ashesupposedthemnevertohavetastedawheatenloafbefore。Hethengavethemlittlepiecesoftwistedtobacco，andamongthechildrenwedistributedasmallhandfulofhalfpence，whichtheyreceivedwithgreateagerness。YetIhavebeensincetold，thatthepeopleofthatvalleyarenotindigent； andwhenwementionedthemafterwardsasneedyandpitiable，aHighlandladyletusknow，thatwemightspareourcommiseration； forthedamewhosemilkwedrankhadprobablymorethanadozenmilk-cows。Sheseemedunwillingtotakeanyprice，butbeingpressedtomakeademand，atlastnamedashilling。Honestyisnotgreaterwhereeleganceisless。Oneofthebystanders，asweweretoldafterwards，advisedhertoaskformore，butshesaidashillingwasenough。Wegaveherhalfacrown，andIhopegotsomecreditforourbehaviour；forthecompanysaid，ifourinterpretersdidnotflatterus，thattheyhadnotseensuchadaysincetheoldlairdofMacleodpassedthroughtheircountry。 TheMacraes，asweheardafterwardsintheHebrides，wereoriginallyanindigentandsubordinateclan，andhavingnofarmsnorstock，wereingreatnumbersservantstotheMaclellans，who，inthewarofCharlestheFirst，tookarmsatthecalloftheheroicMontrose，andwere，inoneofhisbattles，almostalldestroyed。Thewomenthatwereleftathome，beingthusdeprivedoftheirhusbands，liketheScythianladiesofold，marriedtheirservants，andtheMacraesbecameaconsiderablerace。 THEHIGHLANDS Aswecontinuedourjourney，wewereatleisuretoextendourspeculations，andtoinvestigatethereasonofthosepeculiaritiesbywhichsuchruggedregionsasthesebeforeusaregenerallydistinguished。 Mountainouscountriescommonlycontaintheoriginal，atleasttheoldestraceofinhabitants，fortheyarenoteasilyconquered，becausetheymustbeenteredbynarrowways，exposedtoeverypowerofmischieffromthosethatoccupytheheights；andeverynewridgeisanewfortress，wherethedefendantshaveagainthesameadvantages。Iftheassailantseitherforcethestrait，orstormthesummit，theygainonlysomuchground；theirenemiesarefledtotakepossessionofthenextrock，andthepursuersstandatgaze，knowingneitherwherethewaysofescapewindamongthesteeps，norwheretheboghasfirmnesstosustainthem:besidesthat，mountaineershaveanagilityinclimbinganddescendingdistinctfromstrengthorcourage，andattainableonlybyuse。 Ifthewarbenotsoonconcluded，theinvadersaredislodgedbyhunger；forinthoseanxiousandtoilsomemarches，provisionscannoteasilybecarried，andarenevertobefound。Thewealthofmountainsiscattle，which，whilethemenstandinthepasses，thewomendriveaway。Suchlandsatlastcannotrepaytheexpenceofconquest，andthereforeperhapshavenotbeensoofteninvadedbythemereambitionofdominion；asbyresentmentofrobberiesandinsults，orthedesireofenjoyinginsecuritythemorefruitfulprovinces。 Asmountainsarelongbeforetheyareconquered，theyarelikewiselongbeforetheyarecivilized。Menaresoftenedbyintercoursemutuallyprofitable，andinstructedbycomparingtheirownnotionswiththoseofothers。ThusCaesarfoundthemaritimepartsofBritainmadelessbarbarousbytheircommercewiththeGauls。Intoabarrenandroughtractnostrangerisbroughteitherbythehopeofgainorofpleasure。Theinhabitantshavingneithercommoditiesforsale，normoneyforpurchase，seldomvisitmorepolishedplaces，oriftheydovisitthem，seldomreturn。 Itsometimeshappensthatbyconquest，intermixture，orgradualrefinement，thecultivatedpartsofacountrychangetheirlanguage。Themountaineersthenbecomeadistinctnation，cutoffbydissimilitudeofspeechfromconversationwiththeirneighbours。 ThusinBiscay，theoriginalCantabrian，andinDalecarlia，theoldSwedishstillsubsists。ThusWalesandtheHighlandsspeakthetongueofthefirstinhabitantsofBritain，whiletheotherpartshavereceivedfirsttheSaxon，andinsomedegreeafterwardstheFrench，andthenformedathirdlanguagebetweenthem。 Thattheprimitivemannersarecontinuedwheretheprimitivelanguageisspoken，nonationwilldesiremetosuppose，forthemannersofmountaineersarecommonlysavage，buttheyareratherproducedbytheirsituationthanderivedfromtheirancestors。 Suchseemstobethedispositionofman，thatwhatevermakesadistinctionproducesrivalry。England，beforeothercausesofenmitywerefound，wasdisturbedforsomecenturiesbythecontestsofthenorthernandsoutherncounties；sothatatOxford，thepeaceofstudycouldforalongtimebepreservedonlybychusingannuallyoneoftheProctorsfromeachsideoftheTrent。Atractintersectedbymanyridgesofmountains，naturallydividesitsinhabitantsintopettynations，whicharemadebyathousandcausesenemiestoeachother。Eachwillexaltitsownchiefs，eachwillboastthevalourofitsmen，orthebeautyofitswomen，andeveryclaimofsuperiorityirritatescompetition；injurieswillsometimesbedone，andbemoreinjuriouslydefended；retaliationwillsometimesbeattempted，andthedebtexactedwithtoomuchinterest。 IntheHighlandsitwasalaw，thatifarobberwasshelteredfromjustice，anymanofthesameclanmightbetakeninhisplace。 Thiswasakindofirregularjustice，which，thoughnecessaryinsavagetimes，couldhardlyfailtoendinafeud，andafeudoncekindledamonganidlepeoplewithnovarietyofpursuitstodiverttheirthoughts，burntonforageseithersullenlyglowinginsecretmischief，oropenlyblazingintopublicviolence。Oftheeffectsofthisviolentjudicature，therearenotwantingmemorials。ThecaveisnowtobeseentowhichoneoftheCampbells，whohadinjuredtheMacdonalds，retiredwithabodyofhisownclan。TheMacdonaldsrequiredtheoffender，andbeingrefused，madeafireatthemouthofthecave，bywhichheandhisadherentsweresuffocatedtogether。 Mountaineersarewarlike，becausebytheirfeudsandcompetitionstheyconsiderthemselvesassurroundedwithenemies，andarealwayspreparedtorepelincursions，ortomakethem。LiketheGreeksintheirunpolishedstate，describedbyThucydides，theHighlanders，tilllately，wentalwaysarmed，andcarriedtheirweaponstovisits，andtochurch。 Mountaineersarethievish，becausetheyarepoor，andhavingneithermanufacturesnorcommerce，cangrowricheronlybyrobbery。 Theyregularlyplundertheirneighbours，fortheirneighboursarecommonlytheirenemies；andhavinglostthatreverenceforproperty，bywhichtheorderofcivillifeispreserved，soonconsiderallasenemies，whomtheydonotreckonasfriends，andthinkthemselveslicensedtoinvadewhatevertheyarenotobligedtoprotect。 Byastrictadministrationofthelaws，sincethelawshavebeenintroducedintotheHighlands，thisdispositiontothieveryisverymuchreprest。Thirtyyearsagonoherdhadeverbeenconductedthroughthemountains，withoutpayingtributeinthenight，tosomeoftheclans；butcattlearenowdriven，andpassengerstravelwithoutdanger，fear，ormolestation。 Amongawarlikepeople，thequalityofhighestesteemispersonalcourage，andwiththeostentatiousdisplayofcouragearecloselyconnectedpromptitudeofoffenceandquicknessofresentment。TheHighlanders，beforetheyweredisarmed，weresoaddictedtoquarrels，thattheboysusedtofollowanypublickprocessionorceremony，howeverfestive，orhoweversolemn，inexpectationofthebattle，whichwassuretohappenbeforethecompanydispersed。 Mountainousregionsaresometimessoremotefromtheseatofgovernment，andsodifficultofaccess，thattheyareverylittleundertheinfluenceofthesovereign，orwithinthereachofnationaljustice。Lawisnothingwithoutpower；andthesentenceofadistantcourtcouldnotbeeasilyexecuted，norperhapsverysafelypromulgated，amongmenignorantlyproudandhabituallyviolent，unconnectedwiththegeneralsystem，andaccustomedtoreverenceonlytheirownlords。Ithasthereforebeennecessarytoerectmanyparticularjurisdictions，andcommitthepunishmentofcrimes，andthedecisionofrighttotheproprietorsofthecountrywhocouldenforcetheirowndecrees。Itimmediatelyappearsthatsuchjudgeswillbeoftenignorant，andoftenpartial；butintheimmaturityofpoliticalestablishmentsnobetterexpedientcouldbefound。Asgovernmentadvancestowardsperfection，provincialjudicatureisperhapsineveryempiregraduallyabolished。 Thosewhohadthusthedispensationoflaw，werebyconsequencethemselveslawless。Theirvassalshadnoshelterfromoutragesandoppressions；butwerecondemnedtoendure，withoutresistance，thecapricesofwantonness，andtherageofcruelty。 IntheHighlands，somegreatlordshadanhereditaryjurisdictionovercounties；andsomechieftainsovertheirownlands；tillthefinalconquestoftheHighlandsaffordedanopportunityofcrushingallthelocalcourts，andofextendingthegeneralbenefitsofequallawtothelowandthehigh，inthedeepestrecessesandobscurestcorners。 Whilethechiefshadthisresemblanceofroyalty，theyhadlittleinclinationtoappeal，onanyquestion，tosuperiorjudicatures。A claimoflandsbetweentwopowerfullairdswasdecidedlikeacontestfordominionbetweensovereignpowers。Theydrewtheirforcesintothefield，andrightattendedonthestrongest。Thiswas，inrudertimes，thecommonpractice，whichthekingsofScotlandcouldseldomcontrol。 EvensolatelyasinthelastyearsofKingWilliam，abattlewasfoughtatMullRoy，onaplainafewmilestothesouthofInverness，betweentheclansofMackintoshandMacdonaldofKeppoch。Col。Macdonald，theheadofasmallclan，refusedtopaytheduesdemandedfromhimbyMackintosh，ashissuperiorlord。 Theydisdainedtheinterpositionofjudgesandlaws，andcallingeachhisfollowerstomaintainthedignityoftheclan，foughtaformalbattle，inwhichseveralconsiderablemenfellonthesideofMackintosh，withoutacompletevictorytoeither。Thisissaidtohavebeenthelastopenwarmadebetweentheclansbytheirownauthority。 TheHighlandlordsmadetreaties，andformedalliances，ofwhichsometracesmaystillbefound，andsomeconsequencesstillremainaslastingevidencesofpettyregality。Thetermsofoneoftheseconfederacieswere，thateachshouldsupporttheotherintheright，orinthewrong，exceptagainsttheking。 Theinhabitantsofmountainsformdistinctraces，andarecarefultopreservetheirgenealogies。Meninasmalldistrictnecessarilyminglebloodbyintermarriages，andcombineatlastintoonefamily，withacommoninterestinthehonouranddisgraceofeveryindividual。Thenbeginsthatunionofaffections，andco-operationofendeavours，thatconstituteaclan。Theywhoconsiderthemselvesasennobledbytheirfamily，willthinkhighlyoftheirprogenitors，andtheywhothroughsuccessivegenerationslivealwaystogetherinthesameplace，willpreservelocalstoriesandhereditaryprejudices。ThuseveryHighlandercantalkofhisancestors，andrecounttheoutrageswhichtheysufferedfromthewickedinhabitantsofthenextvalley。 Sucharetheeffectsofhabitationamongmountains，andsuchwerethequalitiesoftheHighlanders，whiletheirrockssecludedthemfromtherestofmankind，andkeptthemanunalteredanddiscriminatedrace。Theyarenowlosingtheirdistinction，andhasteningtominglewiththegeneralcommunity。 GLENELG WeleftAuknashealsandtheMacraesitstheafternoon，andintheeveningcametoRatiken，ahighhillonwhicharoadiscut，butsosteepandnarrow，thatitisverydifficult。Thereisnowadesignofmakinganotherwayroundthebottom。Upononeoftheprecipices，myhorse，wearywiththesteepnessoftherise，staggeredalittle，andIcalledinhastetotheHighlandertoholdhim。Thiswastheonlymomentofmyjourney，inwhichIthoughtmyselfendangered。 Havingsurmountedthehillatlast，weweretoldthatatGlenelg，onthesea-side，weshouldcometoahouseoflimeandslateandglass。Thisimageofmagnificenceraisedourexpectation。Atlastwecametoourinnwearyandpeevish，andbegantoinquireformeatandbeds。 Oftheprovisionsthenegativecataloguewasverycopious。Herewasnomeat，nomilk，nobread，noeggs，nowine。Wedidnotexpressmuchsatisfaction。Herehoweverweweretostay。Whiskywemighthave，andIbelieveatlasttheycaughtafowlandkilledit。Wehadsomebread，andwiththatwepreparedourselvestobecontented，whenwehadaveryeminentproofofHighlandhospitality。Alongsomemilesoftheway，intheevening，agentleman\'sservanthadkeptuscompanyonfootwithverylittlenoticeonourpart。HeleftusnearGlenelg，andwethoughtonhimnomoretillhecametousagain，inabouttwohours，withapresentfromhismasterofrumandsugar。Themanhadmentionedhiscompany，andthegentleman，whosename，Ithink，isGordon，wellknowingthepenuryoftheplace，hadthisattentiontotwomen，whosenamesperhapshehadnotheard，bywhomhiskindnesswasnotlikelytobeeverrepaid，andwhocouldberecommendedtohimonlybytheirnecessities。 Wewerenowtoexamineourlodging。Outofoneofthebeds，onwhichweweretorepose，startedup，atourentrance，amanblackasaCyclopsfromtheforge。Othercircumstancesofnoelegantrecitalconcurredtodisgustus。WehadbeenfrightedbyaladyatEdinburgh，withdiscouragingrepresentationsofHighlandlodgings。 Sleep，however，wasnecessary。OurHighlandershadatlastfoundsomehay，withwhichtheinncouldnotsupplythem。Idirectedthemtobringabundleintotheroom，andsleptuponitinmyridingcoat。Mr。Boswellbeingmoredelicate，laidhimselfsheetswithhayoverandunderhim，andlayinlinenlikeagentleman。 SKY。ARMIDEL Inthemorning，Septemberthesecond，wefoundourselvesontheedgeofthesea。Havingprocuredaboat，wedismissedourHighlanders，whomIwouldrecommendtotheserviceofanyfuturetravellers，andwereferriedovertotheIsleofSky。WelandedatArmidel，whereweweremetonthesandsbySirAlexanderMacdonald，whowasatthattimetherewithhislady，preparingtoleavetheislandandresideatEdinburgh。 Armidelisaneathouse，builtwheretheMacdonaldshadonceaseat，whichwasburntinthecommotionsthatfollowedtheRevolution。Thewalledorchard，whichbelongedtotheformerhouse，stillremains。Itiswellshadedbytallashtrees，ofaspecies，asMr。Janesthefossilistinformedme，uncommonlyvaluable。ThisplantationisveryproperlymentionedbyDr。 Campbell，inhisnewaccountofthestateofBritain，anddeservesattention；becauseitprovesthatthepresentnakednessoftheHebridesisnotwhollythefaultofNature。 AswesatatSirAlexander\'stable，wewereentertained，accordingtotheancientusageoftheNorth，withthemelodyofthebagpipe。 Everythinginthosecountrieshasitshistory。Asthebagpiperwasplaying，anelderlyGentlemaninformedus，thatinsomeremotetime，theMacdonaldsofGlengaryhavingbeeninjured，oroffendedbytheinhabitantsofCulloden，andresolvingtohavejusticeorvengeance，cametoCullodenonaSunday，wherefindingtheirenemiesatworship，theyshutthemupinthechurch，whichtheysetonfire；andthis，saidhe，isthetunethatthepiperplayedwhiletheywereburning。 Narrationslikethis，howeveruncertain，deservethenoticeofthetraveller，becausetheyaretheonlyrecordsofanationthathasnohistorians，andaffordthemostgenuinerepresentationofthelifeandcharacteroftheancientHighlanders。 UnderthedenominationofHighlanderarecomprehendedinScotlandallthatnowspeaktheErselanguage，orretaintheprimitivemanners，whethertheyliveamongthemountainsorintheislands； andinthatsenseIusethename，whenthereisnotsomeapparentreasonformakingadistinction。 InSkyIfirstobservedtheuseofBrogues，akindofartlessshoes，stitchedwiththongssoloosely，thatthoughtheydefendthefootfromstones，theydonotexcludewater。Brogueswereformerlymadeofrawhides，withthehairinwards，andsuchareperhapsstillusedinrudeandremoteparts；buttheyaresaidnottolastabovetwodays。Wherelifeissomewhatimproved，theyarenowmadeofleathertannedwithoakbark，asinotherplaces，orwiththebarkofbirch，orrootsoftormentil，asubstancerecommendedindefectofbark，aboutfortyyearsago，totheIrishtanners，byonetowhomtheparliamentofthatkingdomvotedareward。TheleatherofSkyisnotcompletelypenetratedbyvegetablematter，andthereforecannotbeverydurable。 Myinquiriesaboutbrogues，gavemeanearlyspecimenofHighlandinformation。OnedayIwastold，thattomakebrogueswasadomestickart，whicheverymanpractisedforhimself，andthatapairofbrogueswastheworkofanhour。Isupposedthatthehusbandmadebroguesasthewifemadeanapron，tillnextdayitwastoldme，thatabrogue-makerwasatrade，andthatapairwouldcosthalfacrown。Itwilleasilyoccurthattheserepresentationsmaybothbetrue，andthat，insomeplaces，menmaybuythem，andinothers，makethemforthemselves； butIhadboththeaccountsinthesamehousewithintwodays。 Manyofmysubsequentinquiriesuponmoreinterestingtopicksendedinthelikeuncertainty。HethattravelsintheHighlandsmayeasilysaturatehissoulwithintelligence，ifhewillacquiesceinthefirstaccount。TheHighlandergivestoeveryquestionananswersopromptandperemptory，thatskepticismitselfisdaredintosilence，andthemindsinksbeforetheboldreporterinunresistingcredulity；but，ifasecondquestionbeventured，itbreakstheenchantment；foritisimmediatelydiscovered，thatwhatwastoldsoconfidentlywastoldathazard，andthatsuchfearlessnessofassertionwaseitherthesportofnegligence，ortherefugeofignorance。 Ifindividualsarethusatvariancewiththemselves，itcanbenowonderthattheaccountsofdifferentmenarecontradictory。Thetraditionsofanignorantandsavagepeoplehavebeenforagesnegligentlyheard，andunskilfullyrelated。Distanteventsmusthavebeenmingledtogether，andtheactionsofonemangiventoanother。These，however，aredeficienciesinstory，forwhichnomanisnowtobecensured。Itwereenough，ifwhatthereisyetopportunityofexaminingwereaccuratelyinspected，andjustlyrepresented；butsuchisthelaxityofHighlandconversation，thattheinquireriskeptincontinualsuspense，andbyakindofintellectualretrogradation，knowslessashehearsmore。 Intheislandstheplaidisrarelyworn。ThelawbywhichtheHighlandershavebeenobligedtochangetheformoftheirdress，has，inalltheplacesthatwehavevisited，beenuniversallyobeyed。Ihaveseenonlyonegentlemancompletelyclothedintheancienthabit，andbyhimitwaswornonlyoccasionallyandwantonly。Thecommonpeopledonotthinkthemselvesunderanylegalnecessityofhavingcoats；fortheysaythatthelawagainstplaidswasmadebyLordHardwicke，andwasinforceonlyforhislife:butthesamepovertythatmadeitthendifficultforthemtochangetheirclothing，hindersthemnowfromchangingitagain。 Thefillibeg，orlowergarment，isstillverycommon，andthebonnetalmostuniversal；buttheirattireissuchasproduces，inasufficientdegree，theeffectintendedbythelaw，ofabolishingthedissimilitudeofappearancebetweentheHighlandersandtheotherinhabitantsofBritain；and，ifdressbesupposedtohavemuchinfluence，facilitatestheircoalitionwiththeirfellow- subjects。 Whatwehavelongusedwenaturallylike，andthereforetheHighlanderswereunwillingtolayasidetheirplaid，whichyettoanunprejudicedspectatormustappearanincommodiousandcumbersomedress；forhanginglooseuponthebody，itmustflutterinaquickmotion，orrequireoneofthehandstokeepitclose。 TheRomansalwayslaidasidethegownwhentheyhadanythingtodo。 Itwasadresssounsuitabletowar，thatthesamewordwhichsignifiedagownsignifiedpeace。Thechiefuseofaplaidseemstobethis，thattheycouldcommodiouslywrapthemselvesinit，whentheywereobligedtosleepwithoutabettercover。 InourpassagefromScotlandtoSky，wewerewetforthefirsttimewithashower。ThiswasthebeginningoftheHighlandwinter，afterwhichweweretoldthatasuccessionofthreedrydayswasnottobeexpectedformanymonths。ThewinteroftheHebridesconsistsoflittlemorethanrainandwind。Astheyaresurroundedbyanoceanneverfrozen，theblaststhatcometothemoverthewateraretoomuchsoftenedtohavethepowerofcongelation。Thesaltloughs，orinletsofthesea，whichshootveryfarintotheisland，neverhaveanyiceuponthem，andthepoolsoffreshwaterwillneverbearthewalker。Thesnowthatsometimesfalls，issoondissolvedbytheair，ortherain。