第1章

IhaddesiredtovisittheHebrides，orWesternIslandsofScotland，solong，thatIscarcelyrememberhowthewishwasoriginallyexcited；andwasintheAutumnoftheyear1773inducedtoundertakethejourney，byfindinginMr。Boswellacompanion，whoseacutenesswouldhelpmyinquiry，andwhosegaietyofconversationandcivilityofmannersaresufficienttocounteracttheinconveniencesoftravel，incountrieslesshospitablethanwehavepassed。 OntheeighteenthofAugustweleftEdinburgh，acitytoowellknowntoadmitdescription，anddirectedourcoursenorthward，alongtheeasterncoastofScotland，accompaniedthefirstdaybyanothergentleman，whocouldstaywithusonlylongenoughtoshewushowmuchwelostatseparation。 AswecrossedtheFrithofForth，ourcuriositywasattractedbyInchKeith，asmallisland，whichneitherofmycompanionshadevervisited，though，lyingwithintheirview，ithadalltheirlivessolicitedtheirnotice。Here，byclimbingwithsomedifficultyovershatteredcrags，wemadethefirstexperimentofunfrequentedcoasts。InchKeithisnothingmorethanarockcoveredwithathinlayerofearth，notwhollybareofgrass，andveryfertileofthistles。Asmallherdofcowsgrazesannuallyuponitinthesummer。Itseemsnevertohaveaffordedtomanorbeastapermanenthabitation。 Wefoundonlytheruinsofasmallfort，notsoinjuredbytimebutthatitmightbeeasilyrestoredtoitsformerstate。Itseemsnevertohavebeenintendedasaplaceofstrength，norwasbuilttoendureasiege，butmerelytoaffordcovertoafewsoldiers，whoperhapshadthechargeofabattery，orwerestationedtogivesignalsofapproachingdanger。Thereisthereforenoprovisionofwaterwithinthewalls，thoughthespringissonear，thatitmighthavebeeneasilyenclosed。Oneofthestoneshadthisinscription: \'MariaReg。1564。\'Ithasprobablybeenneglectedfromthetimethatthewholeislandhadthesameking。 Weleftthislittleislandwithourthoughtsemployedawhileonthedifferentappearancethatitwouldhavemade，ifithadbeenplacedatthesamedistancefromLondon，withthesamefacilityofapproach；withwhatemulationofpriceafewrockyacreswouldhavebeenpurchased，andwithwhatexpensiveindustrytheywouldhavebeencultivatedandadorned。 Whenwelanded，wefoundourchaiseready，andpassedthroughKinghorn，Kirkaldy，andCowpar，placesnotunlikethesmallorstragglingmarket-townsinthosepartsofEnglandwherecommerceandmanufactureshavenotyetproducedopulence。 ThoughwewereyetinthemostpopulouspartofScotland，andatsosmalladistancefromthecapital，wemetfewpassengers。 Theroadsareneitherroughnordirty；anditaffordsasouthernstrangeranewkindofpleasuretotravelsocommodiouslywithouttheinterruptionoftoll-gates。Wherethebottomisrocky，asitseemscommonlytobeinScotland，asmoothwayismadeindeedwithgreatlabour，butitneverwantsrepairs；andinthosepartswhereadventitiousmaterialsarenecessary，thegroundonceconsolidatedisrarelybroken；fortheinlandcommerceisnotgreat，norareheavycommoditiesoftentransportedotherwisethanbywater。Thecarriagesincommonusearesmallcarts，drawneachbyonelittlehorse；andamanseemstoderivesomedegreeofdignityandimportancefromthereputationofpossessingatwo-horsecart。 ST。ANDREWS AtanhoursomewhatlatewecametoSt。Andrews，acityoncearchiepiscopal；wherethatuniversitystillsubsistsinwhichphilosophywasformerlytaughtbyBuchanan，whosenamehasasfairaclaimtoimmortalityascanbeconferredbymodernlatinity，andperhapsafairerthantheinstabilityofvernacularlanguagesadmits。 Wefound，thatbytheinterpositionofsomeinvisiblefriend，lodgingshadbeenprovidedforusatthehouseofoneoftheprofessors，whoseeasycivilityquicklymadeusforgetthatwewerestrangers；andinthewholetimeofourstayweweregratifiedbyeverymodeofkindness，andentertainedwithalltheeleganceofletteredhospitality。 Inthemorningwerosetoperambulateacity，whichonlyhistoryshewstohaveonceflourished，andsurveyedtheruinsofancientmagnificence，ofwhicheventheruinscannotlongbevisible，unlesssomecarebetakentopreservethem；andwhereisthepleasureofpreservingsuchmournfulmemorials?Theyhavebeentillverylatelysomuchneglected，thateverymancarriedawaythestoneswhofanciedthathewantedthem。 Thecathedral，ofwhichthefoundationsmaybestilltraced，andasmallpartofthewallisstanding，appearstohavebeenaspaciousandmajestickbuilding，notunsuitabletotheprimacyofthekingdom。Ofthearchitecture，thepoorremainscanhardlyexhibit，eventoanartist，asufficientspecimen。Itwasdemolished，asiswellknown，inthetumultandviolenceofKnox\'sreformation。 Notfarfromthecathedral，onthemarginofthewater，standsafragmentofthecastle，inwhichthearchbishopancientlyresided。 Itwasneververylarge，andwasbuiltwithmoreattentiontosecuritythanpleasure。CardinalBeatounissaidtohavehadworkmenemployedinimprovingitsfortificationsatthetimewhenhewasmurderedbytheruffiansofreformation，inthemannerofwhichKnoxhasgivenwhathehimselfcallsamerrynarrative。 ThechangeofreligioninScotland，eagerandvehementasitwas，raisedanepidemicalenthusiasm，compoundedofsullenscrupulousnessandwarlikeferocity，which，inapeoplewhomidlenessresignedtotheirownthoughts，andwho，conversingonlywitheachother，sufferednodilutionoftheirzealfromthegradualinfluxofnewopinions，waslongtransmittedinitsfullstrengthfromtheoldtotheyoung，butbytradeandintercoursewithEngland，isnowvisiblyabating，andgivingwaytoofasttothatlaxityofpracticeandindifferenceofopinion，inwhichmen，notsufficientlyinstructedtofindthemiddlepoint，tooeasilyshelterthemselvesfromrigourandconstraint。 ThecityofSt。Andrews，whenithadlostitsarchiepiscopalpre- eminence，graduallydecayed:Oneofitsstreetsisnowlost；andinthosethatremain，thereissilenceandsolitudeofinactiveindigenceandgloomydepopulation。 Theuniversity，withinafewyears，consistedofthreecolleges，butisnowreducedtotwo；thecollegeofSt。Leonardbeinglatelydissolvedbythesaleofitsbuildingsandtheappropriationofitsrevenuestotheprofessorsofthetwoothers。Thechapelofthealienatedcollegeisyetstanding，afabricknotinelegantofexternalstructure；butIwasalways，bysomecivilexcuse，hindredfromenteringit。Adecentattempt，asIwassincetold，hasbeenmadetoconvertitintoakindofgreen-house，byplantingitsareawithshrubs。Thisnewmethodofgardeningisunsuccessful；theplantsdonothithertoprosper。TowhatuseitwillnextbeputI havenopleasureinconjecturing。Itissomethingthatitspresentstateisatleastnotostentatiouslydisplayed。Wherethereisyetshame，theremayintimebevirtue。 ThedissolutionofSt。Leonard\'scollegewasdoubtlessnecessary； butofthatnecessitythereisreasontocomplain。Itissurelynotwithoutjustreproach，thatanation，ofwhichthecommerceishourlyextending，andthewealthencreasing，deniesanyparticipationofitsprosperitytoitsliterarysocieties；andwhileitsmerchantsoritsnoblesareraisingpalaces，suffersitsuniversitiestomoulderintodust。 Ofthetwocollegesyetstanding，oneisbytheinstitutionofitsfounderappropriatedtoDivinity。Itissaidtobecapableofcontainingfiftystudents；butmorethanonemustoccupyachamber。 Thelibrary，whichisoflateerection，isnotveryspacious，butelegantandluminous。 Thedoctor，bywhomitwasshewn，hopedtoirritateorsubduemyEnglishvanitybytellingme，thatwehadnosuchrepositoryofbooksinEngland。 SaintAndrewsseemstobeaplaceeminentlyadaptedtostudyandeducation，beingsituatedinapopulous，yetacheapcountry，andexposingthemindsandmannersofyoungmenneithertothelevityanddissolutenessofacapitalcity，nortothegrossluxuryofatownofcommerce，placesnaturallyunpropitioustolearning；inonethedesireofknowledgeeasilygiveswaytotheloveofpleasure，andintheother，isindangerofyieldingtotheloveofmoney。 Thestudentshoweverarerepresentedasatthistimenotexceedingahundred。Perhapsitmaybesomeobstructiontotheirincreasethatthereisnoepiscopalchapelintheplace。Isawnoreasonforimputingtheirpaucitytothepresentprofessors；norcantheexpenceofanacademicaleducationbeveryreasonablyobjected。A studentofthehighestclassmaykeephisannualsession，orastheEnglishcallit，histerm，whichlastssevenmonths，foraboutfifteenpounds，andoneoflowerrankforlessthanten；inwhichboard，lodging，andinstructionareallincluded。 Thechiefmagistrateresidentintheuniversity，answeringtoourvice-chancellor，andtotherectormagnificusonthecontinent，hadcommonlythetitleofLordRector；butbeingaddressedonlyasMr。 Rectorinaninauguratoryspeechbythepresentchancellor，hehasfallenfromhisformerdignityofstyle。Lordshipwasveryliberallyannexedbyourancestorstoanystationorcharacterofdignity:Theysaid，theLordGeneral，andLordAmbassador；sowestillsay，myLord，tothejudgeuponthecircuit，andyetretaininourLiturgytheLordsoftheCouncil。 Inwalkingamongtheruinsofreligiousbuildings，wecametotwovaultsoverwhichhadformerlystoodthehouseofthesub-prior。 Oneofthevaultswasinhabitedbyanoldwoman，whoclaimedtherightofabodethere，asthewidowofamanwhoseancestorshadpossessedthesamegloomymansionfornolessthanfourgenerations。Theright，howeveritbegan，wasconsideredasestablishedbylegalprescription，andtheoldwomanlivesundisturbed。Shethinkshoweverthatshehasaclaimtosomethingmorethansufferance；forasherhusband\'snamewasBruce，sheisalliedtoroyalty，andtoldMr。Boswellthatwhentherewerepersonsofqualityintheplace，shewasdistinguishedbysomenotice；thatindeedsheisnowneglected，butshespinsathread，hasthecompanyofhercat，andistroublesometonobody。 Havingnowseenwhateverthisancientcityofferedtoourcuriosity，weleftitwithgoodwishes，havingreasontobehighlypleasedwiththeattentionthatwaspaidus。Butwhoeversurveystheworldmustseemanythingsthatgivehimpain。Thekindnessoftheprofessorsdidnotcontributetoabatetheuneasyremembranceofanuniversitydeclining，acollegealienated，andachurchprofanedandhasteningtotheground。 St。Andrewsindeedhasformerlysufferedmoreatrociousravagesandmoreextensivedestruction，butrecentevilsaffectwithgreaterforce。Wewerereconciledtothesightofarchiepiscopalruins。 Thedistanceofacalamityfromthepresenttimeseemstoprecludethemindfromcontactorsympathy。Eventslongpastarebarelyknown；theyarenotconsidered。WereadwithaslittleemotiontheviolenceofKnoxandhisfollowers，astheirruptionsofAlaricandtheGoths。Hadtheuniversitybeendestroyedtwocenturiesago，weshouldnothaveregrettedit；buttoseeitpiningindecayandstrugglingforlife，fillsthemindwithmournfulimagesandineffectualwishes。 ABERBROTHICK Asweknewsorrowandwishestobevain，itwasnowourbusinesstomindourway。TheroadsofScotlandaffordlittlediversiontothetraveller，whoseldomseeshimselfeitherencounteredorovertaken，andwhohasnothingtocontemplatebutgroundsthathavenovisibleboundaries，orareseparatedbywallsofloosestone。FromthebankoftheTweedtoSt。AndrewsIhadneverseenasingletree，whichIdidnotbelievetohavegrownupfarwithinthepresentcentury。Nowandthenaboutagentleman\'shousestandsasmallplantation，whichinScotchiscalledapolicy，butofthesetherearefew，andthosefewallveryyoung。Thevarietyofsunandshadeishereutterlyunknown。Thereisnotreeforeithershelterortimber。Theoakandthethornisequallyastranger，andthewholecountryisextendedinuniformnakedness，exceptthatintheroadbetweenKirkaldyandCowpar，Ipassedforafewyardsbetweentwohedges。AtreemightbeashowinScotlandasahorseinVenice。AtSt。AndrewsMr。Boswellfoundonlyone，andrecommendedittomynotice；Itoldhimthatitwasroughandlow，orlookedasifIthoughtso。This，saidhe，isnothingtoanotherafewmilesoff。Iwasstilllessdelightedtohearthatanothertreewasnottobeseennearer。Nay，saidagentlemanthatstoodby，Iknowbutofthisandthattreeinthecounty。 TheLowlandsofScotlandhadonceundoubtedlyanequalportionofwoodswithothercountries。Forestsareeverywheregraduallydiminished，asarchitectureandcultivationprevailbytheincreaseofpeopleandtheintroductionofarts。ButIbelievefewregionshavebeendenudedlikethis，wheremanycenturiesmusthavepassedinwastewithouttheleastthoughtoffuturesupply。DaviesobservesinhisaccountofIreland，thatnoIrishmanhadeverplantedanorchard。Forthatnegligencesomeexcusemightbedrawnfromanunsettledstateoflife，andtheinstabilityofproperty； butinScotlandpossessionhaslongbeensecure，andinheritanceregular，yetitmaybedoubtedwhetherbeforetheUnionanymanbetweenEdinburghandEnglandhadeversetatree。 Ofthisimprovidencenootheraccountcanbegiventhanthatitprobablybeganintimesoftumult，andcontinuedbecauseithadbegun。Establishedcustomisnoteasilybroken，tillsomegreateventshakesthewholesystemofthings，andlifeseemstorecommenceuponnewprinciples。ThatbeforetheUniontheScotshadlittletradeandlittlemoney，isnovalidapology；forplantationistheleastexpensiveofallmethodsofimprovement。 Todropaseedintothegroundcancostnothing，andthetroubleisnotgreatofprotectingtheyoungplant，tillitisoutofdanger； thoughitmustbeallowedtohavesomedifficultyinplaceslikethese，wheretheyhaveneitherwoodforpalisades，northornsforhedges。 OurwaywasovertheFirthofTay，where，thoughthewaterwasnotwide，wepaidfourshillingsforferryingthechaise。InScotlandthenecessariesoflifeareeasilyprocured，butsuperfluitiesandeleganciesareofthesamepriceatleastasinEngland，andthereforemaybeconsideredasmuchdearer。 WestoppedawhileatDundee，whereIremembernothingremarkable，andmountingourchaiseagain，cameaboutthecloseofthedaytoAberbrothick。 ThemonasteryofAberbrothickisofgreatrenowninthehistoryofScotland。Itsruinsaffordampletestimonyofitsancientmagnificence:Itsextentmight，Isuppose，easilybefoundbyfollowingthewallsamongthegrassandweeds，anditsheightisknownbysomepartsyetstanding。Thearchofoneofthegatesisentire，andofanotheronlysofardilapidatedastodiversifytheappearance。Asquareapartmentofgreatloftinessisyetstanding； itsuseIcouldnotconjecture，asitselevationwasverydisproportionatetoitsarea。Twocornertowers，particularlyattractedourattention。Mr。Boswell，whoseinquisitivenessissecondedbygreatactivity，scrambledinatahighwindow，butfoundthestairswithinbroken，andcouldnotreachthetop。Oftheothertowerweweretoldthattheinhabitantssometimesclimbedit，butwedidnotimmediatelydiscerntheentrance，andasthenightwasgatheringuponus，thoughtpropertodesist。Menskilledinarchitecturemightdowhatwedidnotattempt:Theymightprobablyformanexactground-plotofthisvenerableedifice。Theymayfromsomepartsyetstandingconjectureitsgeneralform，andperhapsbycomparingitwithotherbuildingsofthesamekindandthesameage，attainanideaveryneartotruth。Ishouldscarcelyhaveregrettedmyjourney，haditaffordednothingmorethanthesightofAberbrothick。 MONTROSE Leavingthesefragmentsofmagnificence，wetravelledontoMontrose，whichwesurveyedinthemorning，andfounditwellbuilt，airy，andclean。Thetownhouseisahandsomefabrickwithaportico。WethenwenttoviewtheEnglishchapel，andfoundasmallchurch，cleantoadegreeunknowninanyotherpartofScotland，withcommodiousgalleries，andwhatwasyetlessexpected，withanorgan。 Atourinnwedidnotfindareceptionsuchaswethoughtproportionatetothecommercialopulenceoftheplace；butMr。 BoswelldesiredmetoobservethattheinnkeeperwasanEnglishman，andIthendefendedhimaswellasIcould。 WhenIhadproceededthusfar，IhadopportunitiesofobservingwhatIhadneverheard，thattherearemanybeggarsinScotland。 InEdinburghtheproportionis，Ithink，notlessthaninLondon，andinthesmallerplacesitisfargreaterthaninEnglishtownsofthesameextent。Itmust，however，beallowedthattheyarenotimportunate，norclamorous。Theysolicitsilently，orverymodestly，andthereforethoughtheirbehaviourmaystrikewithmoreforcetheheartofastranger，theyarecertainlyindangerofmissingtheattentionoftheircountrymen。Noveltyhasalwayssomepower，anunaccustomedmodeofbeggingexcitesanunaccustomeddegreeofpity。Buttheforceofnoveltyisbyitsownnaturesoonatanend；theefficacyofoutcryandperseveranceispermanentandcertain。 TheroadfromMontroseexhibitedacontinuationofthesameappearances。Thecountryisstillnaked，thehedgesareofstone，andthefieldssogenerallyplowedthatitishardtoimaginewheregrassisfoundforthehorsesthattillthem。Theharvest，whichwasalmostripe，appearedveryplentiful。 EarlyintheafternoonMr。BoswellobservedthatwewereatnogreatdistancefromthehouseoflordMonboddo。Themagnetismofhisconversationeasilydrewusoutofourway，andtheentertainmentwhichwereceivedwouldhavebeenasufficientrecompenseforamuchgreaterdeviation。 TheroadsbeyondEdinburgh，astheyarelessfrequented，mustbeexpectedtogrowgraduallyrougher；buttheywerehithertobynomeansincommodious。WetravelledonwiththegentlepaceofaScotchdriver，whohavingnorivalsinexpedition，neithergiveshimselfnorhishorsesunnecessarytrouble。Wedidnotaffecttheimpatiencewedidnotfeel，butweresatisfiedwiththecompanyofeachotheraswellridinginthechaise，assittingataninn。Thenightandthedayareequallysolitaryandequallysafe；forwheretherearesofewtravellers，whyshouldthereberobbers。 ABERDEEN WecamesomewhatlatetoAberdeen，andfoundtheinnsofull，thatwehadsomedifficultyinobtainingadmission，tillMr。Boswellmadehimselfknown:Hisnameoverpoweredallobjection，andwefoundaverygoodhouseandciviltreatment。 IreceivedthenextdayaverykindletterfromSirAlexanderGordon，whomIhadformerlyknowninLondon，andafteracessationofallintercourseforneartwentyyearsmethereprofessorofphysicintheKing\'sCollege。Suchunexpectedrenewalsofacquaintancemaybenumberedamongthemostpleasingincidentsoflife。 Theknowledgeofoneprofessorsoonprocuredmethenoticeoftherest，andIdidnotwantanytokenofregard，beingconductedwherevertherewasanythingwhichIdesiredtosee，andentertainedatoncewiththenoveltyoftheplace，andthekindnessofcommunication。 Towriteofthecitiesofourownislandwiththesolemnityofgeographicaldescription，asifwehadbeencastuponanewlydiscoveredcoast，hastheappearanceofveryfrivolousostentation； yetasScotlandislittleknowntothegreaterpartofthosewhomayreadtheseobservations，itisnotsuperfluoustorelate，thatunderthenameofAberdeenarecomprisedtwotownsstandingaboutamiledistantfromeachother，butgoverned，Ithink，bythesamemagistrates。 OldAberdeenistheancientepiscopalcity，inwhicharestilltobeseentheremainsofthecathedral。Ithastheappearanceofatownindecay，havingbeensituatedintimeswhencommercewasyetunstudied，withverylittleattentiontothecommoditiesoftheharbour。 NewAberdeenhasallthebustleofprosperoustrade，andalltheshewofincreasingopulence。Itisbuiltbythewater-side。Thehousesarelargeandlofty，andthestreetsspaciousandclean。 TheybuildalmostwhollywiththegraniteusedinthenewpavementofthestreetsofLondon，whichiswellknownnottowanthardness，yettheyshapeiteasily。Itisbeautifulandmustbeverylasting。 WhatparticularpartsofcommercearechieflyexercisedbythemerchantsofAberdeen，Ihavenotinquired。Themanufacturewhichforcesitselfuponastranger\'seyeisthatofknit-stockings，onwhichthewomenofthelowerclassarevisiblyemployed。 Ineachofthesetownsthereisacollege，orinstricterlanguage，anuniversity；forinboththereareprofessorsofthesamepartsoflearning，andthecollegesholdtheirsessionsandconferdegreesseparately，withtotalindependenceofoneontheother。 InoldAberdeenstandstheKing\'sCollege，ofwhichthefirstpresidentwasHectorBoece，orBoethius，whomaybejustlyreverencedasoneofthereviversofelegantlearning。WhenhestudiedatParis，hewasacquaintedwithErasmus，whoafterwardsgavehimapublictestimonyofhisesteem，byinscribingtohimacatalogueofhisworks。ThestileofBoethius，though，perhaps，notalwaysrigorouslypure，isformedwithgreatdiligenceuponancientmodels，andwhollyuninfectedwithmonasticbarbarity。Hishistoryiswrittenwitheleganceandvigour，buthisfabulousnessandcredulityarejustlyblamed。Hisfabulousness，ifhewastheauthorofthefictions，isafaultforwhichnoapologycanbemade；buthiscredulitymaybeexcusedinanage，whenallmenwerecredulous。Learningwasthenrisingontheworld；butagessolongaccustomedtodarkness，weretoomuchdazzledwithitslighttoseeanythingdistinctly。Thefirstraceofscholars，inthefifteenthcentury，andsometimeafter，were，forthemostpart，learningtospeak，ratherthantothink，andwerethereforemorestudiousofelegancethanoftruth。ThecontemporariesofBoethiusthoughtitsufficienttoknowwhattheancientshaddelivered。Theexaminationoftenetsandoffactswasreservedforanothergeneration。 Boethius，aspresidentoftheuniversity，enjoyedarevenueoffortyScottishmarks，abouttwopoundsfourshillingsandsixpenceofsterlingmoney。Inthepresentageoftradeandtaxes，itisdifficultevenfortheimaginationsotoraisethevalueofmoney，orsotodiminishthedemandsoflife，astosupposefourandfortyshillingsayear，anhonourablestipend；yetitwasprobablyequal，notonlytotheneeds，buttotherankofBoethius。ThewealthofEnglandwasundoubtedlytothatofScotlandmorethanfivetoone，anditisknownthatHenrytheeighth，amongwhosefaultsavaricewasneverreckoned，grantedtoRogerAscham，asarewardofhislearning，apensionoftenpoundsayear。 Theother，calledtheMarischalCollege，isinthenewtown。Thehallislargeandwelllighted。OneofitsornamentsisthepictureofArthurJohnston，whowasprincipalofthecollege，andwhoholdsamongtheLatinpoetsofScotlandthenextplacetotheelegantBuchanan。 InthelibraryIwasshewnsomecuriosities；aHebrewmanuscriptofexquisitepenmanship，andaLatintranslationofAristotle\'sPoliticksbyLeonardusAretinus，writtenintheRomancharacterwithnicetyandbeauty，which，astheartofprintinghasmadethemnolongernecessary，arenotnowtobefound。Thiswasoneofthelatestperformancesofthetranscribers，forAretinusdiedbutabouttwentyyearsbeforetypographywasinvented。Thisversionhasbeenprinted，andmaybefoundinlibraries，butislittleread；forthesamebookshavebeensincetranslatedbothbyVictoriusandLambinus，wholivedinanagemorecultivated，butperhapsowedinparttoAretinusthattheywereabletoexcelhim。 Muchisduetothosewhofirstbrokethewaytoknowledge，andleftonlytotheirsuccessorsthetaskofsmoothingit。 Inboththesecollegesthemethodsofinstructionarenearlythesame；thelecturesdifferingonlybytheaccidentaldifferenceofdiligence，orabilityintheprofessors。Thestudentswearscarletgownsandtheprofessorsblack，whichis，Ibelieve，theacademicaldressinalltheScottishuniversities，exceptthatofEdinburgh，wherethescholarsarenotdistinguishedbyanyparticularhabit。 IntheKing\'sCollegethereiskeptapublictable，butthescholarsoftheMarischalCollegeareboardedinthetown。Theexpenceoflivingishere，accordingtotheinformationthatI couldobtain，somewhatmorethanatSt。Andrews。 Thecourseofeducationisextendedtofouryears，attheendofwhichthosewhotakeadegree，whoarenotmany，becomemastersofarts，andwhoeverisamastermay，ifhepleases，immediatelycommencedoctor。Thetitleofdoctor，however，wasforaconsiderabletimebestowedonlyonphysicians。Theadvocatesareexaminedandapprovedbytheirownbody；theministerswerenotambitiousoftitles，orwereafraidofbeingcensuredforambition； andthedoctorateineveryfacultywascommonlygivenorsoldintoothercountries。Theministersarenowreconciledtodistinction，andasitmustalwayshappenthatsomewillexcelothers，havethoughtgraduationapropertestimonyofuncommonabilitiesoracquisitions。 Theindiscriminatecollationofdegreeshasjustlytakenawaythatrespectwhichtheyoriginallyclaimedasstamps，bywhichtheliteraryvalueofmensodistinguishedwasauthoritativelydenoted。 Thatacademicalhonours，oranyothersshouldbeconferredwithexactproportiontomerit，ismorethanhumanjudgmentorhumanintegrityhavegivenreasontoexpect。Perhapsdegreesinuniversitiescannotbebetteradjustedbyanygeneralrulethanbythelengthoftimepassedinthepublicprofessionoflearning。AnEnglishorIrishdoctoratecannotbeobtainedbyaveryyoungman，anditisreasonabletosuppose，whatislikewisebyexperiencecommonlyfoundtrue，thathewhoisbyagequalifiedtobeadoctor，hasinsomuchtimegainedlearningsufficientnottodisgracethetitle，orwitsufficientnottodesireit。 TheScotchuniversitiesholdbutonetermorsessionintheyear。 ThatofSt。Andrewscontinueseightmonths，thatofAberdeenonlyfive，fromthefirstofNovembertothefirstofApril。 InAberdeenthereisanEnglishChapel，inwhichthecongregationwasnumerousandsplendid。TheformofpublicworshipusedbythechurchofEnglandisinScotlandlegallypractisedinlicensedchapelsservedbyclergymenofEnglishorIrishordination，andbytacitconnivancequietlypermittedinseparatecongregationssuppliedwithministersbythesuccessorsofthebishopswhoweredeprivedattheRevolution。 WecametoAberdeenonSaturdayAugust21。OnMondaywewereinvitedintothetown-hall，whereIhadthefreedomofthecitygivenmebytheLordProvost。Thehonourconferredhadallthedecorationsthatpolitenesscouldadd，andwhatIamafraidI shouldnothavehadtosayofanycitysouthoftheTweed，Ifoundnopettyofficerbowingforafee。 Theparchmentcontainingtherecordofadmissionis，withthesealappending，fastenedtoaribandandwornforonedaybythenewcitizeninhishat。 Byaladywhosawusatthechapel，theEarlofErrolwasinformedofourarrival，andwehadthehonourofaninvitationtohisseat，calledSlanesCastle，asIamtold，improperly，fromthecastleofthatname，whichoncestoodataplacenotfardistant。 TheroadbeyondAberdeengrewmorestony，andcontinuedequallynakedofallvegetabledecoration。Wetravelledoveratractofgroundnearthesea，which，notlongago，sufferedaveryuncommon，andunexpectedcalamity。Thesandoftheshorewasraisedbyatempestinsuchquantities，andcarriedtosuchadistance，thatanestatewasoverwhelmedandlost。Suchandsohopelesswasthebarrennesssuperinduced，thattheowner，whenhewasrequiredtopaytheusualtax，desiredrathertoresigntheground。 SLANESCASTLE，THEBULLEROFBUCHAN WecameintheafternoontoSlanesCastle，builtuponthemarginofthesea，sothatthewallsofoneofthetowersseemonlyacontinuationofaperpendicularrock，thefootofwhichisbeatenbythewaves。Towalkroundthehouseseemedimpracticable。FromthewindowstheeyewandersovertheseathatseparatesScotlandfromNorway，andwhenthewindsbeatwithviolencemustenjoyalltheterrifickgrandeurofthetempestuousocean。Iwouldnotformyamusementwishforastorm；butasstorms，whetherwishedornot，willsometimeshappen，Imaysay，withoutviolationofhumanity，thatIshouldwillinglylookoutuponthemfromSlanesCastle。 Whenwewereabouttotakeourleave，ourdeparturewasprohibitedbythecountesstillweshouldhaveseentwoplacesuponthecoast，whichsherightlyconsideredasworthyofcuriosity，DunBuy，andtheBullerofBuchan，towhichMr。Boydverykindlyconductedus。 DunBuy，whichinErseissaidtosignifytheYellowRock，isadoubleprotuberanceofstone，opentothemainseaononeside，andpartedfromthelandbyaverynarrowchannelontheother。Ithasitsnameanditscolourfromthedungofinnumerablesea-fowls，whichintheSpringchusethisplaceasconvenientforincubation，andhavetheireggsandtheiryoungtakeningreatabundance。Oneofthebirdsthatfrequentthisrockhas，asweweretold，itsbodynotlargerthanaduck\'s，andyetlayseggsaslargeasthoseofagoose。ThisbirdisbytheinhabitantsnamedaCoot。ThatwhichiscalledCootinEngland，ishereaCooter。 Upontheserockstherewasnothingthatcouldlongdetainattention，andwesoonturnedoureyestotheBuller，orBouilloirofBuchan，whichnomancanseewithindifference，whohaseithersenseofdangerordelightinrarity。Itisarockperpendicularlytubulated，unitedononesidewithahighshore，andontheotherrisingsteeptoagreatheight，abovethemainsea。Thetopisopen，fromwhichmaybeseenadarkgulfofwaterwhichflowsintothecavity，throughabreachmadeinthelowerpartoftheinclosingrock。Ithastheappearanceofavastwellborderedwithawall。TheedgeoftheBullerisnotwide，andtothosethatwalkround，appearsverynarrow。Hethatventurestolookdownwardsees，thatifhisfootshouldslip，hemustfallfromhisdreadfulelevationuponstonesononeside，orintowaterontheother。Wehoweverwentround，andweregladwhenthecircuitwascompleted。 Whenwecamedowntothesea，wesawsomeboats，androwers，andresolvedtoexploretheBulleratthebottom。Weenteredthearch，whichthewaterhadmade，andfoundourselvesinaplace，which，thoughwecouldnotthinkourselvesindanger，wecouldscarcelysurveywithoutsomerecoilofthemind。Thebasoninwhichwefloatedwasnearlycircular，perhapsthirtyyardsindiameter。Wewereinclosedbyanaturalwall，risingsteeponeverysidetoaheightwhichproducedtheideaofinsurmountableconfinement。Theinterceptionofalllaterallightcausedadismalgloom。Rounduswasaperpendicularrock，aboveusthedistantsky，andbelowanunknownprofundityofwater。IfIhadanymaliceagainstawalkingspirit，insteadoflayinghimintheRed-sea，IwouldcondemnhimtoresideintheBullerofBuchan。 Butterrourwithoutdangerisonlyoneofthesportsoffancy，avoluntaryagitationofthemindthatispermittednolongerthanitpleases。Weweresoonatleisuretoexaminetheplacewithminuteinspection，andfoundmanycavitieswhich，asthewatermantoldus，wentbackwardtoadepthwhichtheyhadneverexplored。Theirextentwehadnottimetotry；theyaresaidtoservedifferentpurposes。Ladiescomehithersometimesinthesummerwithcollations，andsmugglersmakethemstorehousesforclandestinemerchandise。Itishardlytobedoubtedbutthepiratesofancienttimesoftenusedthemasmagazinesofarms，orrepositoriesofplunder。 Tothelittlevesselsusedbythenorthernrovers，theBullermayhaveservedasashelterfromstorms，andperhapsasaretreatfromenemies；theentrancemighthavebeenstopped，orguardedwithlittledifficulty，andthoughthevesselsthatwerestationedwithinwouldhavebeenbatteredwithstonesshoweredonthemfromabove，yetthecrewswouldhavelainsafeinthecaverns。 Nextmorningwecontinuedourjourney，pleasedwithourreceptionatSlanesCastle，ofwhichwehadnowleisuretorecountthegrandeurandtheelegance；forourwayaffordedusfewtopicsofconversation。Thegroundwasneitheruncultivatednorunfruitful； butitwasstillallarable。Offlocksorherdstherewasnoappearance。IhadnowtravelledtwohundredmilesinScotland，andseenonlyonetreenotyoungerthanmyself。 BAMFF WedinedthisdayatthehouseofMr。FrazerofStreichton，whoshewedusinhisgroundssomestonesyetstandingofadruidicalcircle，andwhatIbegantothinkmoreworthyofnotice，someforesttreesoffullgrowth。 AtnightwecametoBamff，whereIremembernothingthatparticularlyclaimedmyattention。TheancienttownsofScotlandhavegenerallyanappearanceunusualtoEnglishmen。Thehouses，whethergreatorsmall，areforthemostpartbuiltofstones。 Theirendsarenowandthennextthestreets，andtheentranceintothemisveryoftenbyaflightofsteps，whichreachesuptothesecondstory，thefloorwhichislevelwiththegroundbeingenteredonlybystairsdescendingwithinthehouse。 TheartofjoiningsquaresofglasswithleadislittleusedinScotland，andinsomeplacesistotallyforgotten。Theframesoftheirwindowsareallofwood。TheyaremorefrugaloftheirglassthantheEnglish，andwilloften，inhousesnototherwisemean，composeasquareoftwopieces，notjoininglikecrackedglass，butwithoneedgelaidperhapshalfaninchovertheother。Theirwindowsdonotmoveuponhinges，butarepushedupanddrawndowningrooves，yettheyareseldomaccommodatedwithweightsandpullies。Hethatwouldhavehiswindowopenmustholditwithhishand，unlesswhatmaybesometimesfoundamonggoodcontrivers，therebeanailwhichhemaystickintoahole，tokeepitfromfalling。 Whatcannotbedonewithoutsomeuncommontroubleorparticularexpedient，willnotoftenbedoneatall。TheincommodiousnessoftheScotchwindowskeepsthemverycloselyshut。Thenecessityofventilatinghumanhabitationshasnotyetbeenfoundbyournorthernneighbours；andeveninhouseswellbuiltandelegantlyfurnished，astrangermaybesometimesforgiven，ifheallowshimselftowishforfresherair。 Thesediminutiveobservationsseemtotakeawaysomethingfromthedignityofwriting，andthereforearenevercommunicatedbutwithhesitation，andalittlefearofabasementandcontempt。Butitmustberemembered，thatlifeconsistsnotofaseriesofillustriousactions，orelegantenjoyments；thegreaterpartofourtimepassesincompliancewithnecessities，intheperformanceofdailyduties，intheremovalofsmallinconveniences，intheprocurementofpettypleasures；andwearewellorillatease，asthemainstreamoflifeglidesonsmoothly，orisruffledbysmallobstaclesandfrequentinterruption。Thetruestateofeverynationisthestateofcommonlife。Themannersofapeoplearenottobefoundintheschoolsoflearning，orthepalacesofgreatness，wherethenationalcharacterisobscuredorobliteratedbytravelorinstruction，byphilosophyorvanity；norispublichappinesstobeestimatedbytheassembliesofthegay，orthebanquetsoftherich。Thegreatmassofnationsisneitherrichnorgay:theywhoseaggregateconstitutesthepeople，arefoundinthestreets，andthevillages，intheshopsandfarms；andfromthemcollectivelyconsidered，mustthemeasureofgeneralprosperitybetaken。Astheyapproachtodelicacyanationisrefined，astheirconveniencesaremultiplied，anation，atleastacommercialnation，mustbedenominatedwealthy。 ELGIN FindingnothingtodetainusatBamff，wesetoutinthemorning，andhavingbreakfastedatCullen，aboutnooncametoElgin，whereintheinn，thatwesupposedthebest，adinnerwassetbeforeus，whichwecouldnoteat。Thiswasthefirsttime，andexceptone，thelast，thatIfoundanyreasontocomplainofaScotishtable； andsuchdisappointments，Isuppose，mustbeexpectedineverycountry，wherethereisnogreatfrequencyoftravellers。 TheruinsofthecathedralofElginaffordedusanotherproofofthewasteofreformation。Thereisenoughyetremainingtoshew，thatitwasoncemagnificent。Itswholeplotiseasilytraced。Onthenorthsideofthechoir，thechapter-house，whichisroofedwithanarchofstone，remainsentire；andonthesouthside，anothermassofbuilding，whichwecouldnotenter，ispreservedbythecareofthefamilyofGordon；butthebodyofthechurchisamassoffragments。 Apaperwashereputintoourhands，whichdeducedfromsufficientauthoritiesthehistoryofthisvenerableruin。ThechurchofElginhad，intheintestinetumultsofthebarbarousages，beenlaidwastebytheirruptionofahighlandchief，whomthebishophadoffended；butitwasgraduallyrestoredtothestate，ofwhichthetracesmaybenowdiscerned，andwasatlastnotdestroyedbythetumultuousviolenceofKnox，butmoreshamefullysufferedtodilapidatebydeliberaterobberyandfrigidindifference。Thereisstillextant，inthebooksofthecouncil，anorder，ofwhichI cannotrememberthedate，butwhichwasdoubtlessissuedaftertheReformation，directingthatthelead，whichcoversthetwocathedralsofElginandAberdeen，shallbetakenaway，andconvertedintomoneyforthesupportofthearmy。AScotcharmywasinthosetimesverycheaplykept；yettheleadoftwochurchesmusthavebornsosmallaproportiontoanymilitaryexpence，thatitishardnottobelievethereasonallegedtobemerelypopular，andthemoneyintendedforsomeprivatepurse。Theorderhoweverwasobeyed；thetwochurcheswerestripped，andtheleadwasshippedtobesoldinHolland。Ihopeeveryreaderwillrejoicethatthiscargoofsacrilegewaslostatsea。 Letusnothowevermaketoomuchhastetodespiseourneighbours。 Ourowncathedralsaremoulderingbyunregardeddilapidation。Itseemstobepartofthedespicablephilosophyofthetimetodespisemonumentsofsacredmagnificence，andweareindangerofdoingthatdeliberately，whichtheScotsdidnotdobutintheunsettledstateofanimperfectconstitution。 Thosewhohadonceuncoveredthecathedralsneverwishedtocoverthemagain；andbeingthusmadeuseless，theywere，firstneglected，andperhaps，asthestonewaswanted，afterwardsdemolished。 Elginseemsaplaceoflittletrade，andthinlyinhabited。TheepiscopalcitiesofScotland，Ibelieve，generallyfellwiththeirchurches，thoughsomeofthemhavesincerecoveredbyasituationconvenientforcommerce。ThusGlasgow，thoughithasnolongeranarchbishop，hasrisenbeyonditsoriginalstatebytheopulenceofitstraders；andAberdeen，thoughitsancientstockhaddecayed，flourishesbyanewshootinanotherplace。 InthechiefstreetofElgin，thehousesjutovertheloweststory，liketheoldbuildingsoftimberinLondon，butwithgreaterprominence；sothatthereissometimesawalkforaconsiderablelengthunderacloister，orportico，whichisnowindeedfrequentlybroken，becausethenewhouseshaveanotherform，butseemstohavebeenuniformlycontinuedintheoldcity。 FORES。CALDER。FORTGEORGE WewentforwardsthesamedaytoFores，thetowntowhichMacbethwastravelling，whenhemettheweirdsistersinhisway。ThistoanEnglishmanisclassicground。Ourimaginationswereheated，andourthoughtsrecalledtotheiroldamusements。 WehadnowapreludetotheHighlands。Webegantoleavefertilityandculturebehindus，andsawforagreatlengthofroadnothingbutheath；yetatFochabars，aseatbelongingtothedukeofGordon，thereisanorchard，whichinScotlandIhadneverseenbefore，withsometimbertrees，andaplantationofoaks。 AtForeswefoundgoodaccommodation，butnothingworthyofparticularremark，andnextmorningenteredupontheroad，onwhichMacbethheardthefatalprediction；butwetravelledonnotinterruptedbypromisesofkingdoms，andcametoNairn，aroyalburgh，which，ifonceitflourished，isnowinastateofmiserabledecay；butIknownotwhetheritschiefannualmagistratehasnotstillthetitleofLordProvost。 AtNairnwemayfixthevergeoftheHighlands；forhereIfirstsawpeatfires，andfirstheardtheErselanguage。Wehadnomotivetostaylongerthantobreakfast，andwentforwardtothehouseofMr。Macaulay，theministerwhopublishedanaccountofSt。 Kilda，andbyhisdirectionvisitedCalderCastle，fromwhichMacbethdrewhissecondtitle。Ithasbeenformerlyaplaceofstrength。Thedraw-bridgeisstilltobeseen，butthemoatisnowdry。Thetowerisveryancient:Itswallsareofgreatthickness，archedonthetopwithstone，andsurroundedwithbattlements。Therestofthehouseislater，thoughfarfrommodern。 Wewerefavouredbyagentleman，wholivesinthecastle，withalettertooneoftheofficersatFortGeorge，whichbeingthemostregularfortificationintheisland，welldeservesthenoticeofatraveller，whohasnevertravelledbefore。Wewentthithernextday，foundaverykindreception，wereledroundtheworksbyagentleman，whoexplainedtheuseofeverypart，andentertainedbySirEyreCoote，thegovernour，withsucheleganceofconversationasleftusnoattentiontothedelicaciesofhistable。 OfFortGeorgeIshallnotattempttogiveanyaccount。Icannotdelineateitscientifically，andalooseandpopulardescriptionisofuseonlywhentheimaginationistobeamused。Therewaseverywhereanappearanceoftheutmostneatnessandregularity。Butmysuffrageisoflittlevalue，becausethisandFortAugustusaretheonlygarrisonsthatIeversaw。 Wedidnotregretthetimespentatthefort，thoughinconsequenceofourdelaywecamesomewhatlatetoInverness，thetownwhichmayproperlybecalledthecapitaloftheHighlands。Hithertheinhabitantsoftheinlandpartscometobesuppliedwithwhattheycannotmakeforthemselves:Hithertheyoungnymphsofthemountainsandvalleysaresentforeducation，andasfarasmyobservationhasreached，arenotsentinvain。 INVERNESS Invernesswasthelastplacewhichhadaregularcommunicationbyhighroadswiththesoutherncounties。Allthewaysbeyondithave，Ibelieve，beenmadebythesoldiersinthiscentury。AtInvernessthereforeCromwell，whenhesubduedScotland，stationedagarrison，asattheboundaryoftheHighlands。Thesoldiersseemtohaveincorporatedafterwardswiththeinhabitants，andtohavepeopledtheplacewithanEnglishrace；forthelanguageofthistownhasbeenlongconsideredaspeculiarlyelegant。 Hereisacastle，calledthecastleofMacbeth，thewallsofwhichareyetstanding。Itwasnoverycapaciousedifice，butstandsuponarocksohighandsteep，thatIthinkitwasoncenotaccessible，butbythehelpofladders，orabridge。Overagainstit，onanotherhill，wasafortbuiltbyCromwell，nowtotallydemolished；fornofactionofScotlandlovedthenameofCromwell，orhadanydesiretocontinuehismemory。