Theconversationturneduponscientificmatters，andM。
Fridrikssonaskedmyunclewhathethoughtofthepubliclibrary。
\"Library，sir?\"criedmyuncle；\"itappearstomeacollectionofuselessoddvolumes，andabeggarlyamountofemptyshelves。\"
\"What!\"criedM。Fridriksson；\"why，wehaveeightthousandvolumesofmostrareandvaluableworks-someintheScandinavianlanguage，besidesallthenewpublicationsfromCopenhagen。\"
\"Eightthousandvolumes，mydearsir-why，wherearethey?\"criedmyuncle。
\"Scatteredoverthecountry，ProfessorHardwigg。Weareverystudious，mydearsir，thoughwedoliveinIceland。Everyfarmer，everylaborer，everyfishermancanbothreadandwrite-andwethinkthatbooksinsteadofbeinglockedupincupboards，farfromthesightofstudents，shouldbedistributedaswidelyaspossible。Thebooksofourlibraryarethereforepassedfromhandtohandwithoutreturningtothelibraryshelvesperhapsforyears。\"
\"Thenwhenforeignersvisityou，thereisnothingforthemtosee?\"
\"Well，\"sir，foreignershavetheirownlibraries，andourfirstconsiderationis，thatourhumblerclassesshouldbehighlyeducated。Fortunately，theloveofstudyisinnateintheIcelandicpeople。In1816wefoundedaLiterarySocietyandMechanics\'
Institute；manyforeignscholarsofeminencearehonorarymembers；
wepublishbooksdestinedtoeducateourpeople，andthesebookshaverenderedvaluableservicestoourcountry。Allowmetohavethehonor，ProfessorHardwigg，toenrollyouasanhonorarymember?\"
Myuncle，whoalreadybelongedtonearlyeveryliteraryandscientificinstitutioninEurope，immediatelyyieldedtotheamiablewishesofgoodM。Fridriksson。
\"Andnow，\"hesaid，aftermanyexpressionsofgratitudeandgoodwill，\"ifyouwilltellmewhatbooksyouexpectedtofind，perhapsImaybeofsomeassistancetoyou。\"
Iwatchedmyunclekeenly。Foraminuteortwohehesitated，asifunwillingtospeak；tospeakopenlywas，perhaps，tounveilhisprojects。Nevertheless，aftersomereflection，hemadeuphismind。
\"Well，\"M。Fridriksson，\"hesaidinaneasy，unconcernedkindofway，\"Iwasdesirousofascertaining，ifamongothervaluableworks，youhadanyofthelearnedArneSaknussemm。\"
\"ArneSaknussemm!\"criedtheProfessorofReykjavik；\"youspeakofoneofthemostdistinguishedscholarsofthesixteenthcentury，ofthegreatnaturalist，thegreatalchemist，thegreattraveler。\"
\"Exactlyso。\"
\"OneofthemostdistinguishedmenconnectedwithIcelandicscienceandliterature。\"
\"Asyousay，sir-\"
\"Amanillustriousaboveall。\"
\"Yes，sir，allthisistrue，buthisworks?\"
\"Wehavenoneofthem。\"
\"NotinIceland?\"
\"TherearenoneinIcelandorelsewhere，\"answeredtheother，sadly。
\"Whyso?\"
\"BecauseArneSaknussemmwaspersecutedforheresy，andin1573
hisworkswerepubliclyburntatCopenhagen，bythehandsofthecommonhangman。\"
\"Verygood!capital!\"murmuredmyuncle，tothegreatastonishmentoftheworthyIcelander。
\"Yousaid，sir-\"
\"Yes，yes，allisclear，Iseethelinkinthechain；everythingisexplained，andInowunderstandwhyArneSaknussemm，putoutofcourt，forcedtohidehismagnificentdiscoveries，wascompelledtoconcealbeneaththeveilofanincomprehensiblecryptograph，thesecret-\"
\"Whatsecret?\"
\"Asecret-which，\"stammeredmyuncle。
\"Haveyoudiscoveredsomewonderfulmanuscript?\"criedM。
Fridriksson。
\"No!no，Iwascarriedawaybymyenthusiasm。Ameresupposition。\"
\"Verygood，sir。But，really，toturntoanothersubject，Ihopeyouwillnotleaveourislandwithoutexaminingintoitsmineralogicalriches。\"
\"Well，\"thefactis，Iamratherlate。Somanylearnedmenhavebeenherebeforeme。\"
\"Yes，yes，butthereisstillmuchtobedone，\"criedM。
Fridriksson。
\"Youthinkso，\"saidmyuncle，hiseyestwinklingwithhiddensatisfaction。
\"Yes，youhavenoideahowmanyunknownmountains，glaciers，volcanoestherearewhichremaintobestudied。Withoutmovingfromwherewesit，Icanshowyouone。Yonderontheedgeofthehorizon，youseeSneffels。\"
\"Ohyes，Sneffels，\"saidmyuncle。
\"Oneofthemostcuriousvolcanoesinexistence，thecraterofwhichhasbeenrarelyvisited。\"
\"Extinct?\"
\"Extinct，anytimethesefivehundredyears，\"wasthereadyreply。
\"Well，\"saidmyuncle，whodughisnailsintohisflesh，andpressedhiskneestightlytogethertopreventhimselfleapingupwithjoy。
\"IhaveagreatmindtobeginmystudieswithanexaminationofthegeologicalmysteriesofthisMountSeffel-Feisel-whatdoyoucallit?\"
\"Sneffels，mydearsir。\"
ThisportionoftheconversationtookplaceinLatin，andI
thereforeunderstoodallthathadbeensaid。IcouldscarcelykeepmycountenancewhenIfoundmyunclesocunninglyconcealinghisdelightandsatisfaction。Imustconfessthathisartfulgrimaces，putontoconcealhishappiness，madehimlooklikeanewMephistopheles。
\"Yes，yes，\"hecontinued，\"yourpropositiondelightsme。IwillendeavortoclimbtothesummitofSneffels，and，ifpossible，willdescendintoitscrater。\"
\"Iverymuchregret，\"continuedM。Fridriksson，\"thatmyoccupationwillentirelyprecludethepossibilityofmyaccompanyingyou。ItwouldhavebeenbothpleasurableandprofitableifIcouldhavesparedthetime。\"
\"No，no，athousandtimesno，\"criedmyuncle。\"Idonotwishtodisturbtheserenityofanyman。Ithankyou，however，withallmyheart。Thepresenceofonesolearnedasyourself，wouldnodoubthavebeenmostuseful，butthedutiesofyourofficeandprofessionbeforeeverything。\"
Intheinnocenceofhissimpleheart，ourhostdidnotperceivetheironyoftheseremarks。
\"Ientirelyapproveyourproject，\"continuedtheIcelanderaftersomefurtherremarks。\"Itisagoodideatobeginbyexaminingthisvolcano。Youwillmakeaharvestofcuriousobservations。Inthefirstplace，howdoyouproposetogettoSneffels?\"
\"Bysea。Ishallcrossthebay。Ofcoursethatisthemostrapidroute。\"
\"Ofcourse。Butstillitcannotbedone。\"
\"Why?\"
\"WehavenotanavailableboatinallReykjavik，\"repliedtheother。
\"Whatistobedone?\"
\"Youmustgobylandalongthecoast。Itislonger，butmuchmoreinteresting。\"
\"ThenImusthaveaguide。\"
\"Ofcourse；andIhaveyourveryman。\"
\"SomebodyonwhomIcandepend。\"
\"Yes，aninhabitantofthepeninsulaonwhichSneffelsissituated。Heisaveryshrewdandworthyman，withwhomyouwillbepleased。HespeaksDanishlikeaDane。\"
\"WhencanIseehim-today?\"
\"No，tomorrow；hewillnotbeherebefore。\"
\"Tomorrowbeit，\"repliedmyuncle，withadeepsigh。
Theconversationendedbycomplimentsonbothsides。DuringthedinnermyunclehadlearnedmuchastothehistoryofArneSaknussemm，thereasonsforhismysteriousandhieroglyphicaldocument。Healsobecameawarethathishostwouldnotaccompanyhimonhisadventurousexpedition，andthatnextdayweshouldhaveaguide。
CHAPTER8
OffatLastTHATeveningItookabriefwalkontheshorenearReykjavik，afterwhichIreturnedtoanearlysleeponmybedofcoarseplanks，whereIsleptthesleepofthejust。WhenIawokeIheardmyunclespeakingloudlyinthenextroom。Irosehastilyandjoinedhim。HewastalkinginDanishwithamanoftallstature，andofperfectlyHerculeanbuild。Thismanappearedtobepossessedofverygreatstrength。Hiseyes，whichstartedratherprominentlyfromaverylargehead，thefacebelongingtowhichwassimpleandnaive，appearedveryquickandintelligent。Verylonghair，whicheveninEnglandwouldhavebeenaccountedexceedinglyred，felloverhisathleticshoulders。ThisnativeofIcelandwasactiveandsuppleinappearance，thoughhescarcelymovedhisarms，beinginfactoneofthosemenwhodespisethehabitofgesticulationcommontosouthernpeople。
Everythinginthisman\'smannerrevealedacalmandphlegmatictemperament。Therewasnothingindolentabouthim，buthisappearancespokeoftranquillity。Hewasoneofthosewhoneverseemedtoexpectanythingfromanybody，wholikedtoworkwhenhethoughtproper，andwhosephilosophynothingcouldastonishortrouble。
Ibegantocomprehendhischaracter，simplyfromthewayinwhichhelistenedtothewildandimpassionedverbiageofmyworthyuncle。
WhiletheexcellentProfessorspokesentenceaftersentence，hestoodwithfoldedarms，utterlystill，motionlesstoallmyuncle\'sgesticulations。WhenhewantedtosayNohemovedhisheadfromlefttoright；whenheacquiescedhenodded，soslightlythatyoucouldscarcelyseetheundulationofhishead。Thiseconomyofmotionwascarriedtothelengthofavarice。
JudgingfromhisappearanceIshouldhavebeenalongtimebeforeIhadsuspectedhimtobewhathewas，amightyhunter。Certainlyhismannerwasnotlikelytofrightenthegame。How，then，didhecontrivetogetathisprey?
MysurprisewasslightlymodifiedwhenIknewthatthistranquilandsolemnpersonagewasonlyahunteroftheeiderduck，thedownofwhichis，afterall，thegreatestsourceoftheIcelanders\'wealth。
Intheearlydaysofsummer，thefemaleoftheeider，aprettysortofduck，buildsitsnestamidtherocksofthefjords-thenamegiventoallnarrowgulfsinScandinaviancountries-withwhicheverypartoftheislandisindented。Nosoonerhastheeiderduckmadehernestthanshelinestheinsideofitwiththesoftestdownfromherbreast。Thencomesthehunterortrader，takingawaythenest，thepoorbereavedfemalebeginshertaskoveragain，andthiscontinuesaslongasanyeiderdownistobefound。
Whenshecanfindnomorethemalebirdsetstoworktoseewhathecando。As，however，hisdownisnotsosoft，andhasthereforenocommercialvalue，thehunterdoesnottakethetroubletorobhimofhisnestlining。Thenestisaccordinglyfinished，theeggsarelaid，thelittleonesareborn，andnextyeartheharvestofeiderdownisagaincollected。
Now，astheeiderduckneverselectssteeprocksoraspectstobuilditsnest，butratherslopingandlowcliffsneartothesea，theIcelandichuntercancarryonhistradeoperationswithoutmuchdifficulty。Heislikeafarmerwhohasneithertoplow，tosow，nortoharrow，onlytocollecthisharvest。
Thisgrave，sententious，silentperson，asphlegmaticasanEnglishmanontheFrenchstage，wasnamedHansBjelke。HehadcalleduponusinconsequenceoftherecommendationofM。Fridriksson。Hewas，infact，ourfutureguide。ItstruckmethathadIsoughttheworldover，Icouldnothavefoundagreatercontradictiontomyimpulsiveuncle。
They，however，readilyunderstoodoneanother。Neitherofthemhadanythoughtaboutmoney；onewasreadytotakeallthatwasofferedhim，theotherreadytoofferanythingthatwasasked。Itmayreadilybeconceived，then，thatanunderstandingwassooncometobetweenthem。
Now，theunderstandingwas，thathewastotakeustothevillageofStapi，situatedonthesouthernslopeofthepeninsulaofSneffels，attheveryfootofthevolcano。Hans，theguide，toldusthedistancewasabouttwenty-twomiles，ajourneywhichmyunclesupposedwouldtakeabouttwodays。
ButwhenmyunclecametounderstandthattheywereDanishmiles，ofeightthousandyardseach，hewasobligedtobemoremoderateinhisideas，and，consideringthehorribleroadswehadtofollow，toalloweightortendaysforthejourney。
Fourhorseswerepreparedforus，twotocarrythebaggage，andtwotobeartheimportantweightofmyselfanduncle。Hansdeclaredthatnothingeverwouldmakehimclimbonthebackofanyanimal。Hekneweveryinchofthatpartofthecoast，andpromisedtotakeustheveryshortestway。
HisengagementwithmyunclewasbynomeanstoceasewithourarrivalatStapi；hewasfurthertoremaininhisserviceduringthewholetimerequiredforthecompletionofhisscientificinvestigations，atthefixedsalaryofthreerix-dollarsaweek，beingexactlyfourteenshillingsandtwopence，minusonefarthing，Englishcurrency。Onestipulation，however，wasmadebytheguide-themoneywastobepaidtohimeverySaturdaynight，failingwhich，hisengagementwasatanend。
Thedayofourdeparturewasfixed。Myunclewishedtohandtheeider-downhunteranadvance，butherefusedinoneemphaticword-
\"Efter。\"
WhichbeingtranslatedfromIcelandicintoplainEnglishmeans-
\"After。\"
Thetreatyconcluded，ourworthyguideretiredwithoutanotherword。
\"Asplendidfellow，\"saidmyuncle；\"onlyhelittlesuspectsthemarvelouspartheisabouttoplayinthehistoryoftheworld。\"
\"Youmean，then，\"Icriedinamazement，\"thatheshouldaccompanyus?\"
\"Totheinterioroftheearth，yes，\"repliedmyuncle。\"Whynot?\"
Therewereyetforty-eighthourstoelapsebeforewemadeourfinalstart。Tomygreatregret，ourwholetimewastakenupinmakingpreparationsforourjourney。Allourindustryandabilityweredevotedtopackingeveryobjectinthemostadvantageousmanner-theinstrumentsononeside，thearmsontheother，thetoolshereandtheprovisionsthere。Therewere，infact，fourdistinctgroups。
Theinstrumentswereofcourseofthebestmanufacture:
1。AcentigradethermometerofEigel，countingupto150degrees，whichtomedidnotappearhalfenough-ortoomuch。Toohotbyhalf，ifthedegreeofheatwastoascendsohigh-inwhichcaseweshouldcertainlybecooked-notenough，ifwewantedtoascertaintheexacttemperatureofspringsormetalinastateoffusion。
2。Amanometerworkedbycompressedair，aninstrumentusedtoascertaintheupperatmosphericpressureontheleveloftheocean。
Perhapsacommonbarometerwouldnothavedoneaswell，theatmosphericpressurebeinglikelytoincreaseinproportionaswedescendedbelowthesurfaceoftheearth。
3。Afirst-classchronometermadebyBoissonnas，ofGeneva，setatthemeridianofHamburg，fromwhichGermanscalculate，astheEnglishdofromGreenwich，andtheFrenchfromParis。
4。Twocompasses，oneforhorizontalguidance，theothertoascertainthedip。
5。Anightglass。
6。TwoRuhmkorffcoils，which，bymeansofacurrentofelectricity，wouldensureusaveryexcellent，easilycarried，andcertainmeansofobtaininglight。*
*TheRuhmkorffcoilisusedtoobtaincurrentsofinducedelectricityofgreatintensity。Itconsistsofacoilofcopperwire，insulatedbybeingcoveredwithsilk，surroundedbyanothercoiloffinewire，alsoinsulated，inwhichamomentarycurrentisinducedwhenacurrentispassedthroughtheinnercoilfromavoltaicbattery。Whentheapparatusisinaction，thegasbecomesluminous，andproducesawhiteandcontinuedlight。Thebatteryandwirearecarriedinaleatherbag，whichthetravelerfastensbyastraptohisshoulders。Thelanternisinfront，andenablesthebenightedwanderertoseeinthemostprofoundobscurity。Hemayventurewithoutfearofexplosionintothemidstofthemostinflammablegases，andthelanternwillburnbeneaththedeepestwaters。H。D。Ruhmkorff，anableandlearnedchemist，discoveredtheinductioncoil。In1864hewonthequinquennialFrenchprizeofL2，000forthisingeniousapplicationofelectricity。Avoltaicbattery，socalledfromVolta，itsdesigned，isanapparatusconsistingofaseriesofmetalplatesarrangedinpairsandsubjectedtotheactionofsalinesolutionsforproducingcurrentsofelectricity。
7。Avoltaicbatteryonthenewestprinciple。
Ourarmsconsistedoftworifles，withtworevolvingsix-shooters。
Whythesearmswereprovideditwasimpossibleformetosay。Ihadeveryreasontobelievethatwehadneitherwildbeastsnorsavagenativestofear。Myuncle，ontheotherhand，wasquiteasdevotedtohisarsenalastohiscollectionofinstruments，andaboveallwasverycarefulwithhisprovisionoffulminatingorguncotton，warrantedtokeepinanyclimate，andofwhichtheexpansiveforcewasknowntobegreaterthanthatofordinarygunpowder。
Ourtoolsconsistedoftwopickaxes，twocrowbars，asilkenladder，threeiron-shodAlpinepoles，ahatchet，ahammer，adozenwedges，somepointedpiecesofiron，andaquantityofstrongrope。
Youmayconceivethatthewholemadeatolerableparcel，especiallywhenImentionthattheladderitselfwasthreehundredfeetlong!
Thentherecametheimportantquestionofprovisions。Thehamperwasnotverylargebuttolerablysatisfactory，forIknewthatinconcentratedessenceofmeatandbiscuittherewasenoughtolastsixmonths。TheonlyliquidprovidedbymyunclewasSchiedam。Ofwater，notadrop。Wehad，however，anamplesupplyofgourds，andmyunclecountedonfindingwater，andenoughtofillthem，assoonaswecommencedourdownwardjourney。Myremarksastothetemperature，thequality，andevenastothepossibilityofnonebeingfound，remainedwhollywithouteffect。
Tomakeuptheexactlistofourtravelinggear-fortheguidanceoffuturetravelers-add，thatwecarriedamedicineandsurgicalchestwithallapparatusnecessaryforwounds，fracturesandblows；lint，scissors，lancets-infact，aperfectcollectionofhorriblelookinginstruments；anumberofvialscontainingammonia，alcohol，ether，Goulardwater，aromaticvinegar，infact，everypossibleandimpossibledrug-finally，allthematerialsforworkingtheRuhmkorffcoil!
Myunclehadalsobeencarefultolayinagoodlysupplyoftobacco，severalflasksofveryfinegunpowder，boxesoftinder，besidesalargebeltcrammedfullofnotesandgold。Goodbootsrenderedwatertightweretobefoundtothenumberofsixinthetoolbox。
\"Myboy，withsuchclothing，withsuchboots，andsuchgeneralequipment，\"saidmyuncle，inastateofrapturousdelight，\"wemayhopetotravelfar。\"
Ittookawholedaytoputallthesemattersinorder。IntheeveningwedinedwithBaronTrampe，incompanywiththeMayorofReykjavik，andDoctorHyaltalin，thegreatmedicalmanofIceland。
M。Fridrikssonwasnotpresent，andIwasafterwardssorrytohearthatheandthegovernordidnotagreeonsomemattersconnectedwiththeadministrationoftheisland。Unfortunately，theconsequencewas，thatIdidnotunderstandawordthatwassaidatdinner-akindofsemiofficialreception。OnethingIcansay，myuncleneverleftoffspeaking。
Thenextdayourlaborcametoanend。Ourworthyhostdelightedmyuncle，ProfessorHardwigg，bygivinghimagoodmapofIceland，amostimportantandpreciousdocumentforamineralogist。
OurlasteveningwasspentinalongconversationwithM。
Fridriksson，whomIlikedverymuch-themorethatIneverexpectedtoseehimoranyoneelseagain。Afterthisagreeablewayofspendinganhourorso，Itriedtosleep。Invain；withtheexceptionofafewdozes，mynightwasmiserable。
Atfiveo\'clockinthemorningIwasawakenedfromtheonlyrealhalfhour\'ssleepofthenightbytheloudneighingofhorsesundermywindow。Ihastilydressedmyselfandwentdownintothestreet。Hanswasengagedinputtingthefinishingstroketoourbaggage，whichhedidinasilent，quietwaythatwonmyadmiration，andyethediditadmirablywell。Myunclewastedagreatdealofbreathingivinghimdirections，butworthyHanstooknottheslightestnoticeofhiswords。
Atsixo\'clockallourpreparationswerecompleted，andM。
Fridrikssonshookhandsheartilywithus。Myunclethankedhimwarmly，intheIcelandiclanguage，forhiskindhospitality，speakingtrulyfromtheheart。
AsformyselfIputtogetherafewofmybestLatinphrasesandpaidhimthehighestcomplimentsIcould。Thisfraternalandfriendlydutyperformed，wesalliedforthandmountedourhorses。
Assoonaswewerequiteready，M。Fridrikssonadvanced，andbywayoffarewell，calledaftermeinthewordsofVirgil-wordswhichappearedtohavebeenmadeforus，travelersstartingforanuncertaindestination:
\"Etquacunqueviamdederitfortunasequamur。\"
(\"Andwhichsoeverwaythougoest，mayfortunefollow!\")
CHAPTER9
WeMeetwithadventuresTHEweatherwasovercastbutsettled，whenwecommencedouradventurousandperilousjourney。Wehadneithertofearfatiguingheatnordrenchingrain。Itwas，infact，realtouristweather。
AstherewasnothingIlikedbetterthanhorseexercise，thepleasureofridingthroughanunknowncountrycausedtheearlypartofourenterprisetobeparticularlyagreeabletome。
Ibegantoenjoytheexhilaratingdelightoftraveling，alifeofdesire，gratificationandliberty。Thetruthis，thatmyspiritsrosesorapidly，thatIbegantobeindifferenttowhathadonceappearedtobeaterriblejourney。
\"Afterall，\"Isaidtomyself，\"whatdoIrisk?Simplytotakeajourneythroughacuriouscountry，toclimbaremarkablemountain，andiftheworstcomestotheworst，todescendintothecraterofanextinctvolcano。\"
TherecouldbenodoubtthatthiswasallthisterribleSaknussemmhaddone。Astotheexistenceofagallery，orofsubterraneouspassagesleadingintotheinterioroftheearth，theideawassimplyabsurd，thehallucinationofadistemperedimagination。All，then，thatmayberequiredofmeIwilldocheerfully，andwillcreatenodifficulty。
ItwasjustbeforeweleftReykjavikthatIcametothisdecision。
Hans，ourextraordinaryguide，wentfirst，walkingwithasteady，rapid，unvaryingstep。Ourtwohorseswiththeluggagefollowedoftheirownaccord，withoutrequiringwhiporspur。MyuncleandI
camebehind，cuttingaverytolerablefigureuponoursmallbutvigorousanimals。
IcelandisoneofthelargestislandsinEurope。Itcontainsthirtythousandsquaremilesofsurface，andhasaboutseventythousandinhabitants。Geographershavedivideditintofourparts，andwehadtocrossthesouthwestquarterwhichinthevernaculariscalledSudvestrFjordungr。
Hans，ontakinghisdeparturefromReykjavik，hadfollowedthelineofthesea。Wetookourwaythroughpoorandsparsemeadows，whichmadeadesperateefforteveryyeartoshowalittlegreen。
Theyveryrarelysucceedinagoodshowofyellow。
Theruggedsummitsoftherockyhillsweredimlyvisibleontheedgeofthehorizon，throughthemistyfogs；everynowandthensomeheavyflakesofsnowshowedconspicuousinthemorninglight，whilecertainloftyandpointedrockswerefirstlostinthegreylowclouds，theirsummitsclearlyvisibleabove，likejaggedreefsrisingfromatroubloussea。
Everynowandthenaspurofrockcamedownthroughthearidground，leavingusscarcelyroomtopass。Ourhorses，however，appearednotonlywellacquaintedwiththecountry，butbyakindofinstinct，knewwhichwasthebestroad。Myunclehadnoteventhesatisfactionofurgingforwardhissteedbywhip，spur，orvoice。Itwasutterlyuselesstoshowanysignsofimpatience。Icouldnothelpsmilingtoseehimlooksobigonhislittlehorse；hislonglegsnowandthentouchingthegroundmadehimlooklikeasix-footedcentaur。
\"Goodbeast，goodbeast，\"hewouldcry。\"Iassureyou，\"Goodbeast，goodbeast，Henry，thatIbegintothinknoanimalismoreintelligentthananIcelandichorse。Snow，tempest，impracticableroads，rocks，icebergs-nothingstopshim。Heisbrave；heissober；
heissafe；henevermakesafalsestep；neverglidesorslipsfromhispath。Idaretosaythatifanyriver，anyfjordhastobecrossed-andIhavenodoubttherewillbemany-youwillseehimenterthewaterwithouthesitationlikeanamphibiouslikeanamphibiousanimal，andreachtheoppositesideinsafety。Wemustnot，however，attempttohurryhim；wemustallowhimtohavehisownway，andIwillundertaketosaythatbetweenusweshalldoourtenleaguesaday。\"
\"Wemaydoso，\"wasmyreply，\"butwhataboutourworthyguide?\"
\"Ihavenottheslightestanxietyabouthim:thatsortofpeoplegoaheadwithoutknowingevenwhattheyareabout。LookatHans。Hemovessolittlethatitisimpossibleforhimtobecomefatigued。
Besides，ifheweretocomplainofweariness，hecouldhavetheloanofmyhorse。IshouldhaveaviolentattackofthecrampifIwerenottohavesomesortofexercise。Myarmsareright-butmylegsaregettingalittlestiff。\"
Allthiswhilewewereadvancingatarapidpace。Thecountrywehadreachedwasalreadynearlyadesert。Hereandtherecouldbeseenanisolatedfarm，somesolitarybur，orIcelandichouse，builtofwood，earth，fragmentsoflava-lookinglikebeggarsonthehighwayoflife。
Thesewretchedandmiserablehutsexcitedinussuchpitythatwefelthalfdisposedtoleavealmsateverydoor。Inthiscountrytherearenoroads，pathsarenearlyunknown，andvegetation，poorasitwas，slowlyasitreachedperfection，soonobliteratedalltracesofthefewtravelerswhopassedfromplacetoplace。
Nevertheless，thisdivisionoftheprovince，situatedonlyafewmilesfromthecapital，isconsideredoneofthebestcultivatedandmostthicklypeopledinallIceland。What，then，mustbethestateofthelessknownandmoredistantpartsoftheisland?AftertravelingfullyhalfaDanishmile，wehadmetneitherafarmeratthedoorofhishut，norevenawanderingshepherdwithhiswildandsavageflock。
Afewstraycowsandsheepwereonlyseenoccasionally。What，then，mustweexpectwhenwecometotheupheavedregions-tothedistrictsbrokenandroughenedfromvolcaniceruptionsandsubterraneouscommotions?
Weweretolearnthisallingoodtime。Isaw，however，onconsultingthemap，thatweavoidedagooddealofthisroughcountry，byfollowingthewindinganddesolateshoresofthesea。Inreality，thegreatvolcanicmovementoftheisland，andallitsattendantphenomena，areconcentratedintheinterioroftheisland；there，horizontallayersorstrataofrocks，piledoneupontheother，eruptionsofbasalticorigin，andstreamsoflava，havegiventhiscountryakindofsupernaturalreputation。
LittledidIexpect，however，thespectaclewhichawaiteduswhenwereachedthepeninsulaofSneffels，whereagglomerationsofnature\'sruinsformakindofterriblechaos。
SometwohoursormoreafterwehadleftthecityofReykjavik，wereachedthelittletowncalledAoalkirkja，ortheprincipalchurch。Itconsistssimplyofafewhouses-notwhatinEnglandorGermanyweshouldcallahamlet。
Hansstoppedhereonehalfhour。Hesharedourfrugalbreakfast，answeredYes，andNotomyuncle\'squestionsastothenatureoftheroad，andatlastwhenaskedwhereweweretopassthenightwasaslaconicasusual。
\"Gardar!\"washisone-wordedreply。
